ShutterBugs - Beginners/Back To Basics PP Notes

Using Your Digital Camera
Aperture The aperture is simply the hole that controls the amount of light passing through the lens into the camera - the bigger the hole the more light passes through It is one of the two components that control the amount of light that reaches the image sensor in your camera. The other is shutter speed Measured in f-stops or f/numbers for example f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6,f/8,f/22 etc. Moving from one f-stop to the next doubles or halves the size of the amount of opening in your lens (and the amount of light getting through)

Aperture

Aperture Range

Aperture What does f/number mean:
f/number = focal length/diameter of aperture

Aperture
How using different apertures effects the image

Aperture
Depth of Field

Aperture Priority (selectAorAv) semi automatic you choose the aperture the camera chooses the appropriate shutter speed this will then produce the correct exposure useful in low light situations when you want to control how much of the image is in focus

Aperture Priority
How using different apertures effects the image Using f/4 produces a shallow depth of field A great way to isolate your subject by drawing attention to it

Aperture Priority
How using different apertures effects the image An aperture of f/2.8 (on the left) produces a shallow depth of field

Aperture Priority
How using different apertures effects the image f/4 = small depth of field great for portraits

Aperture Priority
How using different apertures effects the image f/1.8 = very small depth of field
The best effect is obtained at the largest apertures (smallest numbers) eg f/1.8 but these are not normally found on zoom lenses only on prime lenses (fixed focal length lenses)

Aperture Priority
How using different apertures effects the image f/4 = small depth of field
great for portraits

Aperture Priority
How using different apertures effects the image f/4 = small depth of field great for portraits

Aperture Priority
How using different apertures effects the image Using f/4 produces a small depth of field great for flowers The Small Depth of Field effect is enhanced when the camera is quite near to the subject

Aperture Priority
How using different apertures effects the image f/4 = small depth of field Great for insects in the garden!

Aperture Priority
How using different apertures effects the image f/4 = small depth of field great for product shots

Aperture Priority
How using different apertures effects the image f/4 = small depth of field great for product shots!

Aperture Priority
How using different apertures effects the image f/4 = small depth of field great for product shots!

Aperture Priority

f/4 = small depth of field great for oudoor scenics

Aperture Priority

Aperture Priority

Aperture Priority
How using different apertures effects the image Using f/4 produces a shallow depth of field - eg
f/4
f/16

Aperture Priority
How using different apertures effects the image f/4 = small depth of field f/16 = large depth of field
f/4
f/16

Aperture Priority
Using an aperture of f/22 produces a large depth of field - ie everything in focus from the near foreground to the far horizon

Focussing Auto Focus - AF Points
Although AF systems work very well there are still some decisions you may have to take about which part of the scene you want the sharpest the focus point The centre most AF point is usually the most accurate However you can change which one is active or group AF points using the D pad

Focussing Auto Focus - AF Points
There are two types of autofocus sensors:
cross-type sensors (two-dimensional contrast detection, higher accuracy) vertical line sensors (one-dimensional contrast detection, lower accuracy) Multiple AF points can work together for improved reliability with a moving subject, one point may be perfect for still subjects or portraits

Focussing Auto Focus Modes
AF-S (Nikon) or One Shot AF (Canon) - focussing mode for still subjects - the camera focuses once, and then locks AF for you to recompose and shoot. Use this for still subjects AF-C (Nikon) or AI Servo AF (Canon) - focussing mode for moving subjects - the camera keeps focusing as the subject moves. Use this for sports and vehicles in motion, like children, pets, cars, birds, aircraft etc AF-A (Nikon) or AI Focus AF (Canon) - focussing mode for still & moving subjects (camera default setting) - magically selects between the first two modes. This clever mode looks at the subject: if it's holding still, it locks the focus, if the subject is moving, it tracks it as it moves nearer and farther. You probably wont needed to select any other mode - the hybrid mode is that good!

Focussing
Where autofocus doesnt work! A situation where you may want to switch from Automatic to Manual focus:

Focussing: Manual Focussing
switch on lens barrel deactivates autofocus (AF/MF) manual focussing achieved using ring on lens barrel (DSLRs) or D-pad (Bridge/CSC) useful when camera either cannot focus itself or when you want to choose where to focus - eg portraits or macro shots Manual in Live view (Lv) - on screen - can magnify shot up to x10 times to aid focusing (good for macro shots. Focusing control sometimes on the D pad

Focussing: Manual Focussing - useful when camera either cannot focus itself or you choose to use manual - eg portraits o macro shots
Fully Manual - switch on lens barrel deactivates autofocus motor manual focussing achieved using ring on lens barrel (SLRs) or D-pad (Bridge/CSC)
Manual + Live view (Lv) - on screen - can magnify shot up to x10 times to aid focusing (good for macro shots. Focusing control sometimes on the D pad

Camera Controls: Nikon D5100 on left, Canon 600D on right
NO AUTO TODAY!

Camera Controls: Nikon D5100 on left, Canon 600D on right

MENUS:
CANON EOS 1100D NIKON D3100

Menus: Nikon D5100 on left, Canon 600D on right



Screen display: Nikon D3100 on left, Canon 600D on right

Menus - well look at a few:
Image Quality (Canon):

Where you select either the file type: NEF (RAW) + JPEG Fine NEF (RAW) + JPEG Normal NEF (RAW) + JPEG Basic JPEG Fine JPEG Normal* JPEG Basic

Menus: there are many, many other menus in your camera. Here are the ones youll use most:
White Balance: Adjusts the camera's colour balance to match a variety of light sources Picture Styles: a range of pre-programmed image parameter sets intended to deliver the best results in different situations Long Exp. NR: Disables or enables the automatic Noise Reduction feature High ISO NR: This option increases the camera's Image Stabilization - there are two types of Noise Reduction efforts in exposures at ISOs higher stabilization: one that's included inside the camera than about 800 and one that's inside the lens. Regardless of the type, stabilization helps to eliminate blur in your ISO: Changes the camera's sensitivity setting, from photos caused by camera shake 100 to 3200 (should be shortcut button on body)
Focus Area Frame: Specifies the number of AF

Composition
no composition is right or wrong - it is totally subjective viewers will have very diverse opinions of the same shot however there are useful tools we can use to aid composition & make the image feel more comfortable within the frame

Composition Thirds rule Golden Ratio Diagonals Leading lines Creating depth Framing

Composition the thirds rule



the rock is somewhat uncomfortable right in the middle however the cloud reflection on the diagonal re-balances the image with movement

Composition The Golden Ratio
a mathematical formula for producing aesthetically pleasing composition (also the reason the rule of thirds works) Other derivations you may see: The Golden Triangle, The Golden Rectangle & The Golden Spiral

Composition The Golden Triangle

Composition The Golden Triangle

Composition The Golden Rectangle

Composition The Golden Rectangle

Composition The Golden Spiral


Composition The Golden Triangle The Golden Rectangle The Golden Spiral
..they all relate to each other

Found in Valencia! Iglesia de Santa Catalina

Composition Symmetry

Composition Symmetry

Composition Texture

Composition Diagonals

Composition Leading Lines

Composition Framing

Composition Framing

Composition Framing

Composition Framing

Composition Low viewpoint adds drama

Composition Low viewpoint adds drama

Composition When keeping parallels parallel matters! Composition often needs patience & timing!

Composition Depth of Field + low viewpoint

Composition Depth of Field + low viewpoint

Composition Adding depth

Composition Leading Lines

Composition Lines

Composition Camera orientation

Composition Lens choice

Composition Lens choice

Composition Contrast

Composition Contrast

Composition Contrast Snow falling at night Shot with flash which illuminates snowflakes & underside of trees

Composition Contrast Christmas decs at night Shot with fairly long exposure

Composition Tight Framing



Composition Camera orientation for people shots.

Portrait format - camera turned through 90 degrees However the term portrait is misleading I have seen plenty of excellent portrait shots from students which have been shot in landscape format - so experiment

Composition - people Space




Composition - people Drama & depth, using hands

Composition - people Drama, depth & capturing the moment

Composition - people Tight framing

Composition - people High angle

Composition Perspective
Changing your shooting position - is there a better angle? Shoot higher Shoot lower Take a step to the left Take a step to the right
These can make a real difference & it encourages you to look at your scene with creative eyes

Composition Before you press the button! Check:
Is there a tree growing out of someones head? Could I move my position left or right to eliminate that rubbish bin? Could I move my position down to reduce that grass in the foreground? Should I really have that right in the middle of the shot? Do I need to change the depth of field to provide impact? Do I need to change the shutter speed to avoid blur? Could I improve the image with just a trickle of pop up flash? Your digital camera has many options which you are now starting to discover use them more & youll become familiar with your camera controls & therefore more confident Delete, delete, delete if you know the pic is rubbish delete it. Itll save so much time later

Exposure
A photograph's exposure determines how light or dark an image will appear. This is determined by just three camera settings: ISO the measure of a digital camera sensors sensitivity to light Aperture the size of the opening in the lens when a picture is taken Shutter Speed the amount of time that the shutter is open any change in one of the above elements will impact the others

What controls exposure? ISO ratings determine the image sensors sensitivity to light, each value of the rating represents a stop of light, and each incremental ISO number (up or down) represents a doubling or halving of the sensors sensitivity to light. The Aperture controls the lens diaphragm, which controls the amount of light traveling through the lens to the film plane. The aperture setting is indicated by the f-number, whereas each f-number represents a stop of light. The Shutter Speed indicates the speed in which the curtain opens then closes, and each shutter speed value also represents a stop of light. The shutter speed is measured in fractions of a second.

When these three elements are combined, they represent a given exposure value (EV) for a given setting. Any change in any one of the three elements will have a measurable and specific impact on how the remaining two elements react to expose the film frame or image sensor and how the image ultimately looks. For example, if you increase the f-stop, you decrease the size of the lens diaphragm thus reducing the amount of light hitting the image sensor, but also increasing the DOF (depth of field) in the final image. Reducing the shutter speed affects how motion is captured, in that this can cause the background or subject to become blurry. However, reducing shutter speed (keeping the shutter open longer) also increases the amount of light hitting the image sensor, so everything is brighter. Increasing the ISO, allows for shooting in lower light situations, but you increase the amount of digital noise inherent in the photo. It is impossible to make an independent change in one of the elements and not obtain an opposite effect in how the other elements affect the image, and ultimately change the EV.

Exposure - under & over exposure

Exposure
Same exposure - different combinations of aperture & shutter speed

Exposure & Metering Modes
Your camera has a very sophisticated metering system to determine the correct exposure It will do this automatically There are usually a few to choose from (Canon example below) :
Evaluative/Matrix
Centre-weighted
Partial
Spot

Evaluative (Canon) or Matrix (Nikon) This is the default metering mode on most DSLRs. It works by dividing the entire frame into multiple zones & analizes the areas on an individual basis for light and dark tones One of the key factors that affects this type of metering, is where the camera focus point is set to. After reading information from all individual zones, the metering system looks at where you focused within the frame and marks it more important than all other zones

Centre Weighted Effective when you have a bright background or backlit subject. For example, if you were taking a photograph of a persons face on a sunny day at the beach. You wouldn't want the strong background light, or the white sand, to effect the exposure on their face. As long as the persons face was correctly exposed, that's all that matters

Spot/Partial Spot Metering only evaluates the light around your focus point and ignores everything else - used when you want to take an exposure reading on a specific area. It takes the reading from a very small area in the middle of your composition

ISO (International Organization for Standardisation) changes the sensitivity of the image sensor in accordance with light levels Bright sun = 100 ISO Low light = 1600 ISO The higher the ISO value the more noise See over

ISO (International Organization for Standardisation) The higher the ISO the higher the level of noise:
100 ISO
1600 ISO

Active D-Lighting (Nikon only) ADR automatically identifies highlight & shadow areas that may otherwise be lost You have to activate it in the menu With high contrast scenes a shot may lose detail in the highlight or shadow areas - losing detail - using Active DLighting compensates for this

Exposure Compensation - a way to override the camera meter to make the image lighter or darker Automatic Exposure Bracketing (AEB) will automatically give three exposures normal, lighter & darker

AE-L (also the AF-L Button) - Auto Exposure Lock When pressed the AE Lock button locks-in the auto exposure and white balance so that subsequent photos have the same exposure and balance Useful when taking panorama photos so that consistent exposure is achieved across all images otherwise the exposure will change according to what is in the viewfinder

Photographing Landscapes

1. Intro
Like taking portraits of friends & family, landscape photography is likely to be a subject that occurs frequently in your role as a photographer. The landscapes you photr may be urban or rural landscapes many of the following guidelines will refer to both

2. Composition There are many guidelines to aid composition. In my opinion the most useful are: Rule of thirds Leading lines Rhythm

2. Composition Rule of thirds

2. Composition Leading lines see diag lines leading from the corners of the frame leading the eye into the image

2. Composition Rhythm Receding lamp posts, railings trees or repetition can add depth & interest to a landscape Utilising these concepts will make your images more striking

3. Techniques Those which I have found most useful: use a polarising filter creative blur using long exposures use of shallow depth of fgield use of a compass the twylight zone sidestep & elevation use RAW files to maximise quality say no

3. Techniques
Polarising filter
use of a polarising filter useful to darken blue skies & to reduce reflections on bright sunny days. Generally use filters sparingly

3. Techniques Long exposures effective with moving water fountains, waterfalls, seascapes gives a softer feel to the movement of water rather than the more static results with faster shutter speeds star trails requires very long exposures (hours rather than minutes) consider using a tripod (bulky & sometimes heavy) to steady the camera for long exposures or possibly a bean bag (more lightweight & fits in your camera bag) www.grahamparish.co.uk




3. Techniques
Depth of field shallow depth of field using large aperture values (say f2.8 or less) fabulous technique for visually isolating a subject while throwing everything else out of focus


Techniques Use of a compass a compass allows you to assess when to revisit a building or landscape to make best use of the sun. Buildings & landscapes are often much improved when shot at a particular time of day when the sun is low & striking across a building the twilight zone a magical time before sunset that doesnt last long (20-30mins) but can add interest & warmth to an urban or rural landscape

Techniques The Twylight Zone the twilight zone a magical time before sunset that doesnt last long (20-30mins) but can add interest & warmth to an urban or rural landscape

Techniques Sidestep & elevation Urban landscapes ca be hugely improved by simply taking a couple of steps to the left, right or up (ie steps, bench, wall etc)

Techniques use RAW files to maximise quality

Techniques Say no if your image does not inspire you, change it choose a different viewpoint

Techniques HDR (high dynamic range) imaging HDR is short for High Dynamic Range. It is a post-processing method of taking either one image or a series of images, combining them, and adjusting the contrast ratios to do things that are virtually impossible with a single aperture and shutter speed.

Techniques HDR (high dynamic range) imaging For a tutorial & some good examples: http://www.stuckincustoms.com/hdr-tutorial/ www.flickr.com/groups/hdr/ http://www.hdrsoft.com/videos/ Free software: http://qtpfsgui.sourceforge.net/

3. Techniques Links: http://www.thephotoargus.com/inspiration/field-of-dreams-30-amazingphotographs-to-leave-you-inspired/
www.grahamparish.co.uk

Camera lenses Zoom lenses have a variable focal length eg:
2 types: Wideangle zoom 18-55mm Telephoto zoom 55-300
Prime lenses - have a fixed focal length eg:

2 types: macro lens (for close up shots) - no zoom portrait lens - 50mm or 85mm - no zoom

Camera Lenses Zoom lens
Typically comes with the camera Very versatile & good for everyday use Variable zoom or focal length - typically 1870mm, 70- 300mm However have some disadvantages in that they are heavy & they cannot be used at large apertures (say f1.8) - generally restricted to a max aperture of about f4.5


Focal lengths of a zoom lens

Camera Lenses Prime lens
macro lens used for close up shots capable of reproduction ratios greater than 1:1
consider using extension tubes:

Camera Lenses Prime lens
portrait lens Lighter than a zoom lens Typically 85mm Large maximum apertures eg f1.8

Camera Lenses What is "focal length?"
The "focal length" of a lens is the distance between the optical centre of the lens and the place where it focuses its image ie on the image sensor

Photographing People - settings
Camera Settings
Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority? Manual Focus or Auto Focus? Wide angle lens or telephoto lens? Colour or Monochrome? If colour what Picture Style? JPEG or RAW file?

Photographing People - techniques
1. Determine what the shoot is for Before you even think about picking up your camera, the first thing you need to consider is what is the purpose of shooting the images? It could be head shots for a colleagues website, a family portrait or just for a friend. Think carefully about the setting and style of the shoot depending upon its purpose

2. Location
Decide on the purpose of the shoot - its easier to select a suitable location Think about what might suit the style of the shoot, for example, somewhere scenic with plenty of space, by a river, lake, hills or in the park? Maybe you want to place your subject in the midst of a busy city amongst the architecture, traffic and crowds? Theres also the option of using a room indoors. Larger rooms are usually brighter (most large rooms have more windows) and will give you lots of space to work with Smaller and dimmer rooms will suit a shot that requires more shadows and a more somber mood Utilize the structures around you, particularly indoors, doorways, windows, staircases and pillars can all make for useful structural support within your image

3. Determine the quality of the light Avoid working in the middle of the day - youll get very harsh shadows on the face If you have to then you may then have to use fill-in flash either with the pop up flash on your camera (if you can control the flash output or an external flash unit Working slightly earlier or later in the day is better, or alternatively, working If youre working indoors, youll want as much light to be entering the room as possible - however avoid direct sunlight on the face If you know your location, determine what time of day offers the best window light by figuring out which way the windows face (north, south, east or west)

4. Getting your positioning right One of the main advantages of using a larger working space is the freedom to move around to meet your requirements Use the available light as best as possible If youre outside find what you think might be a suitable place for your model to stand and then work out where the sun is in the sky Its essential that you dont make your model look directly towards the sun, as theyll just squint! Begin by having them side on to the sun and work from there. A good tip here, is to get your model to turn 360 degrees gradually and for you to follow them as they turn. This way, youll be able to observe the change in the lighting to find the best positioning.

5. Use the light to your advantage There are a few other techniques that you can try to make the most of the light on offer. Whenever youre using natural light, carry a reflector. It can be extremely useful for portraits as you can reflect some of the light from the side onto the subjects face On nice bright days, its also worth trying some backlit shots, with the sun directly behind your subject. Again, the reflector will come in handy here, as you try to achieve a warm glow around the shape of your model Remember as well that you have the option of using shade and shadows within your portraiture work. A shady spot under a tree may well be just what you need when the direct sunlight is too bright, although be sure to check that the shade is evenly spread to avoid blotches of darker areas.

6. Window shots Employing the sunlight through a window to light a portrait shot is a favorite technique and can make for some really engaging and dramatic portraits. The soft light through the window acts as the perfect highlight for a strong and moody image and works particularly well if you have the light cast on just one side of the subjects face, leaving the other in shadow. The general rule is that the closer to the window you are, the more light youll have to work with and the stronger the contrast will be between the light and the dark. Also, if the light coming through the window is too bright, you always have the option of using curtains or a blind to diffuse some of the light.

7. Camera settings Focus on the eyes. When we look at a photo of another person, the first thing we connect with is their eyes. Make sure that the eyes are the focal point and use manual focus if you dont trust your auto focus to get it right! Its also a good idea to use a large aperture (small f-number) to blur out the background so it doesnt attract any attention away from your subject.

8. Communication is key Its absolutely vital that you interact with your subject Be sure to build up a rapport with them as soon as possible Dont expect your subject to be able to read your mind. They wont know how you want them to pose or where you want them to look unless you communicate it to them If youre struggling to convey the shapes you want your model to make, give them example poses yourself Use props so that the subject has something to do with their hands

9. The type of light The quality and color of the light will change according to the time of day, season and the weather. Some days youll have warm and yellow light, where as on others, natural light will possess a blue tint. This is where using white balance comes into play. You can use the settings to adapt to the conditions in order to achieve the tone of light you desire Shoot in RAW rather than JPEG you can make more changes during post processing.

10. Try it for yourself
Practise - dont be afraid to ask family or friends to help you out. It will give you a great chance to practice your techniques and it will be easy to communicate with your subject as you know them

Photographing People - natural light
Photographer: RamonaG

Photographer: York Place Studios

Photographer: Unknown


Photographer: Graham Parish

Photographer: Steve Bulley

Photographer: Brian Jung

Photographer: Andrew Dutton

Photographer: Xaxor


Photographer: Louise Beattie

Photographer: Unknown

The shutter in your camera
The shutter controls the length of time light is allowed to fall on the image sensor (CCD*) inside the camera. It is measured in speed from minutes (or even hours) - slow shutter speeds right down to a the fast shutter speed of 1/4000th second - a huge range *charge coupled device

Shutter Priority setting (S or Tv)
is semi automatic: you choose the shutter speed, the camera chooses the appropriate aperture this will then produce the correct exposure

The Shutter Priority setting is useful for:
fast moving subjects - speeds of 1/500th 1/4000th (fast shutter speeds) can freeze motion NB slow shutter speeds can cause camera shake - blurring the image. To eliminate this keep the camera steady - use a tripod, beanbag, put the camera on a wall, use a lamp-post etc

How using different shutter speeds in the Shutter Priority setting effects the image:

Slow shutter speeds can cause unintentional camera blur

Slow shutter speeds can cause unintentional camera blur

However, slow shutter speeds can be used to create intentional blur for creative effect

A slow shutter speed while panning with the camera causing intentional subject blur for creative effect (about 1/20th sec)

A slow shutter speed causing intentional subject blur for creative effect (about 1/20th sec) Is there any panning with the camera?

Shutter Speed Comparison
examples showing the effects of various shutter speeds on movement

Shutter Speed comparison
examples showing the effects of different shutter speeds

Slow Shutter Speed
Example of a slow shutter speed on water - 2 sec
http://www.exposureguid e.com/

Slow Shutter Speed
example of a very slow shutter speed -2 s or longer (on a tripod!) good for seascapes

Slow Shutter Speed
Shot at about 1/10th sec

Slow Shutter Speed
Panning at about 1/10th sec

Slow Shutter Speed

Slow Shutter Speed

Slow Shutter Speed
Panning - at about 1/4th sec

Slow Shutter Speed
Panning - at about 1/4th sec

Slow Shutter Speed Camera static about 13 secs exposure!

Fast Shutter Speed panning with the camera using both fast & slow shutter speeds

Fast or slow shutter speed?

Panning with the camera - what shutter speed?

Panning with the camera - what shutter speed?

Fast Shutter Speed
Capturing movement in water

Fast Shutter Speed
Capturing movement

Fast Shutter Speed
Capturing movement

Fast Shutter Speed
Capturing movement

Fast Shutter Speed
captures fast movement

B (bulb) setting extremely slow shutter speed
Normally only available in manual mode M shutter open for minutes! Guess how many?

B (bulb) setting extremely slow shutter speed
Normally only available in manual mode M
shutter open for 181 minutes!

B (bulb) setting - found only in M (Manual)
Used for very long exposures eg night sky, fireworks, lightning etc requiring a shutter speed in excess of 30 seconds Allows the shutter to be open for as long as you choose Must be on a tripod, wall, beanbag to prevent blur from camera shake etc To release shutter - once to open, once to close Best to use a remote control or the self timer to open shutter to avoid blur Will use up battery power

Panning - How to Pan:
Select a shutter speed around 1/20th. The amount of blur in a scene depends on how fast/slow your shutter is. Slower shutter speeds will create more motion blur, but will be more difficult to maintain a sharp subject. Faster shutter speeds will make getting a sharp subject easier, but will have less blur Select AI Servo focus mode on your camera. It will allow you to track the subject before you take the shot Select a subject that is moving. Subjects that are moving in a predictable path (child riding a bike down a hill) make panning easier. Also, straight paths make it a bit easier yet

Panning - How to Pan:
Stand at right angles to where your subject will pass. For example, if you are photographing a child on a scooter in the street, you should be on the pavement. You want to photograph the broad side of your subject as they pass you Let your hips control the movement of the camera Press the shutter. Wait for your subject to pass by and GENTLY press the shutter. Do not stab at it. KEEP FOLLOWING THROUGH

Flash Fill-in Flash
Used to illuminate the foreground and to balances the level of light both for the subject and shadowy areas so that it captures all the details.

Flash Fill-in Flash

Flash Fill-in Flash

Flash Fill-in Flash

Flash Fill-in Flash
Used in combination of a slow shutter speed to illuminate the foreground again - bounced from above/behind - no harsh shadows on girl in centre

Flash Bounce Flash
Used to soften the flash & eliminate harsh shadows

Flash Flash off camera
Again used to soften the flash & eliminate harsh shadows but this time the flash can look more natural when its not coming from the camera Slow shutter speed Use a remote trigger or a wireless link
www.grahamparish.co.uk

Flash Flash off camera
Again used to soften the flash & eliminate harsh shadows but this time the flash can look more natural when its not coming from the camera Use a remote trigger or a wireless link

Flash First/Second Curtain Flash Sync
First Curtain Sync (default)
used where it is desired that the flash freeze motion at the beginning of the exposure. Front curtain sync is adequate for most flash-photography. When making long exposures while also firing a flash, front curtain sync creates an effect where any motion blur - from ambient light - appears ahead of the subject

Flash First/Second Curtain Flash Sync
Second Curtain Sync
Some cameras offer the ability to fire the flash at just before the second curtain closes. This is called rear (or second) curtain sync, and it is used to freeze motion at the end of the exposure. When making long exposures while firing a flash, rear curtain sync creates the effect of motion blur trailing the main subject.

Flash Second Curtain Flash Sync

Flash Second Curtain Flash Sync

White Balance
The colour of an object is affected by the lighting conditions under which it is viewed. Our eyes and our brain compensate for different types of lightthat's why a white object appears white to us whether it's viewed in sunlight, under overcast skies or indoors under incandescent or fluorescent light. But digital cameras need help to emulate this process, to compensate for different types of lighting and render a white object white The white balance setting is that help We can simply set auto white balance and the camera will read the scene's colour temperature (basically the hue and intensity of a particular light source, measured in degrees Kelvin) and choose a setting from its collection of pre-programmed adjustments. That's a good solution when a scene's lighting is pretty much all of one type and there's a prominent white or neutral subject in the scene.

White Balance - Presets

White Balance - Custom
Under mixed lighting conditions you can choose the Custom setting. With this option selected, hold a white card in front of the lens and press the shutter button. The camera will read and lock in the colour temperature of the light reflected from that card, and that locked-in reading now becomes the standard for the camera's white balance setting.

White Balance
Visible light is measured in colour temperature and is measured in Kelvin (K). A light having higher colour temperature will have more blue light (or larger Kelvin value) compared to light which has a smaller Kelvin value. The following table shows the colour temperature of various sources of light.

White Balance

White Balance - examples



ShutterBugs - Beginners/Back To Basics PP Notes

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Using Your Digital Camera

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Using Your Digital Camera

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great for portraits

Using Your Digital Camera

Using Your Digital Camera

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Using Your Digital Camera

Using Your Digital Camera

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How using different apertures effects the image

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Image Quality (Canon):

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Focus Area Frame: Specifies the number of AF

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