FABRIC AND GARMENT FINISHING Presentation on Decatising, Emerising, Raising and Sanforizing.

Presented byHarshita Agarwal (10) Reetusri (22)

CONTENTS
1.INTRODUCTION TO FINISHES 2.DECATISING 3.EMERISING 4.RAISING 5.SANFORISING 6.BIBLIOGRAPHY

INTRODUCTION TO FINISHES
In textile manufacturing, finishing refers to the
final processes that converts

the woven or knitted cloth into a usable material

and more specifically to any process performed after dyeing the yarn or fabric to improve the look, performance, or "hand" (feel) of the finished textile or clothing.

Some of the mechanical finishes are :1. Decatising 2. Emerising 3. Raising 4. Sanforising

DECATIZIN G

DECATISING
Decatising or decatizing, also known as crabbing, blowing, and decating. It is the process of making a permanent textile finish on a cloth, so that it does not shrink during garment making. It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand.

When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage. It also helps to avoid distortion of weave, and in the run the design pattern. It also removes creases and makes fabric smooth. It improves texture through added humidity.

The principal involved is controlled relaxation of strains stored in fabric. Fabric along with a felt are rolled in open width onto a perforated cylinder and is

subjected to a super heated steam.

ADVANTAGES
Produces shrink free finish.

Smooth and wrinkle free finish.

Enhance natural luster of fabric. Permanent setting of woolen fabrics. Overcome blotchy or uneven dyeing.

LIMITATIONS
Dimensions of fabric cannot be changed.

Decatizing machine BISIO

EMERIZIN G

EMERISING
The sueding or emerising process aims to

recreate the natural suede feel using other

materials. It is the unique peach-skin effect on light and heavy woven as well as knitted fabrics. It gives the abraded effect to the fabrics. It makes them ideal for certain clothing

applications such as ladies lingerie, shoes and kids

wear.

The process involves is also used to make upholstery, table and wall coverings with a suede feel to create a really luxurious effect for selected home ware. Fabrics that are treated in this way will have

increased liquid, crushing and stain resistance,

and are likely to appeal to consumers who prefer a

non-animal product.

It can be carried out on all types of denims.

Emerising improves the feel and appearance of

the denim fabric completely making it very

comfortable for the user.

It results in the soft and fluffy flannel effect on

the fabric. It also gives the mock leather finish to fabrics.

It is an operation where an article undergoes

emery rollers (abrasive type), allowing a slight

pile raising, although is smaller than in carding.

In some cases emery or sand paper are used

to abrade the surface of fabric to give the suede

effect.

The substitution of the abrasive rollers is by a brush roller with a long pile from carbon fibre. It renders the fabric soft to touch with less pile formation, innovating the peach-skin effect and evolving with the no-pile effect.

ADVANTAGES
Fabric treated with emerizing finish have

increased liquid, crushing and stain resistance. Gives abraded appearance to fabric. Its also valued due to its soft texture.

LIMITATIONS
Less durable due to abrading of the fabric.

Emerizing machine TORRES

RAISIN G

RAISING
It is a technique used to produce a brushed or
napped appearance. Also termed as napping or brushing or flannel finishing. It makes fabric smooth and soil and water repellent.

It raises the surface fibers of a fabric by means of passage over rapidly revolving cylinders covered with metal points or teasel burrs. Napping is also used for certain knit goods, blankets, and other fabrics with a raised surface. This operation is particularly suitable for wool and cotton fabrics; it gives a fuzzy surface by

abrading the cloth and pulling the fiber end to the

surface.

By means of this process a hairy surface can

be given to both face and back of the cloth

providing several modifications of the fabric

appearance, softer and fuller hand and bulk

increase.
The fuzzy surface is created by pulling the fiber end out of the yarns by means of metal needles provided with hooks shelled into the rollers that scrape the fabric surface.

These rollers are generally alternated with a

roller with hooks directed toward the fabric feed

direction (pile roller), and a roller with the hooks

fitted in the opposite direction (counter-pile roller).

It is also used to cover the fabric defect. The fabric created can be used as dusting materials. Durability of the fabric is hampered as it is performed on the medium-loose twisted yarns..

ADVANTAGES
By raising brushed or napped appearance can be

achieved. Due to its raised effect its used in a variety of fabrics like blanket etc.

LIMITATIONS
Due to lots of brushing in raising it makes the fabric

less durable. Low resiliency and hence premature flattening occurs Nap can be partially restored by frequent brushing. Subject to pilling. Rapid wear at abrasive points (like elbows, button holes etc.)

RAISING MACHINE ZME406 Roller Raising Machine

SANFORIZI NG

SANFORIZING
This finish is done to control the shrinkage of the fabric. An efficient method, with an accurate

adjustment, it grants washing.

1% shrinkage in the

The fabric is run though the sanforizers, i.e. the rollers or drums filled with hot steam. The fabric is made to pass through a rubber

The greater the pressure applied to the rubber

belt, the less the shrinking afterwards

Rubber blankets or needle felts are used.

During this process the fabrics are shrinked in

such a way that these do not shrink any more

during the washes.

The

fabric

undergoes

the

continuous

expansion and shrinkage in the presence of pressure and hot steam. The cloth is continually fed into the

sanforizer and therein moistened steam.

A rotating cylinder presses a rubber belt against another heated rotating cylinder.

Thereby the belt briefly gets compressed and laterally expanded, afterwards relaxing to its normal thickness. The cloth to be treated is transported between rubber sleeve and heated cylinder and is forced to follow this brief compression and lateral

expansion, and relaxation. It thus gets shrunk.

ADVANTAGES
Its provides controlled shrinkage to the fabric. The purpose is to shrink fabric in such a way that

textiles made up of these fabric do not shrink during washing. It stabilizes the fabric structure. Improves the hand of the fabric. End products are denim, bed sheets, table clothes, curtains etc.

LIMITATIONS
Its only minimizes the shrinkage ,dont remove it

completely. Its not that durable.

Sanforizing machine monforts

BIBLIOGRAPHY
Encyclopedia of textile finishing by Prof.Dr.rer.nat .Hans-Karl Rouette http://www.gatewayfinishers.co.uk/textilefinishingservices/sueding-emerising/ http://www.troficolor.com/img/ficheiros/file/04%2 0-%20Finishing1%20%20TROFICOLOR%20DENIM%20MAKERS.pdf