EMBROIDERY TRAINING

KEY EMBRIDERY BASIC THEORIES

About Stitches :
All stitches are formed by a loop of colored thread looped with
loop of bobbin thread.
Max and minimum length: Must be between 1mm (.04 inch)
and 12.7mm (1/2 inch). Too short causes thread breaks. Too long,
stitches are too loose.
3 Major Factors Affecting Sewing Quality that you can control:
Tension once properly set, should rarely require re-adjustment.
Hooping proper hooping is a must. Not too tight, not too loose.
Digitizing
KEY EMBRIDERY BASIC THEORIES
Sewing file format used in embroidery: DST
All commercial machines read this format
Does not have color information must load the design into the machine
AND tell it which colors to sew.
Limited in editability the design must be sewn at the size it was
digitized.
About Embroidery Thread
Upper (colored) thread
can be polyester or rayon, usually polyester. Standard is 40 weight
Comes in several sizes: 5,000 meter cones to 1,000 meter cones.
Handle carefully: physical contact, oil/dirt, moisture can prevent it
from unspooling smoothly and catch
KEY EMBRIDERY BASIC THEORIES
Bobbin thread
L-type, approximately 350 yards per spool. Bobbin thread will have
to be changed more frequently than upper thread
Lasts approximately 25,000 to 60,000 stitches
Embroidery Needles:
Type DB-K5, standard size is 75/11 ballpoint for most applications.
Alternate needle for sewing caps and other tightly-woven goods (heavy canvas)
is 80/12 sharp point for better penetration
The width of the shaft of an embroidery needle limits the finest possible
detail (the smallest possible stitch). Standard size (75/11) needles are .75 mm
across, so stitches must be at least a little wider than the hole that the needle
punches in the fabric (minimum distance1mm)
Needles are subject to wear! Over time, burred surfaces and other wear can
cause problems.
Be prepared to change needles frequently especially with heavy use.

KEY EMBRIDERY BASIC THEORIES



Side
view
butt


Shank
rounded. Does
not have a flat
spot

Front
view






Scarf faces towards the back
of the machine
blade or
shaft


Groove allows you to find the
front of the needle by feel.

PROPER MACHINE SET UP
MACHINE ENVIRONMENT
Temperature and Humidity-Controlled Environment
Clean, protected electrical power
Steady table/mounting surface


PROPER MACHINE SET UP










-Proper Thread Routing: All threads must be
routed correctly at all points along the path through
the sewing head.












needle 7
needle 8
needle 9
needle 10

needle 11
needle 12


Layout of Cone/Needle Sequence

needle 6
needle 5
needle 4
needle 3
needle 2
needle 1











General Thread Route
Thread must pass up from cones through guide
holes in thread tree and through every specific
point along the face of the sewing head. Thread
Needle numbers are arranged right to left, lowest number to highest.
PROPER MACHINE SET UP



Training Workbook: HAPPY HCS-1201 Voyager Operation and Maintenance Education Department








UPPER THREAD complete route through moving head



Upper Tensioner
Thread only makes
turn make sure
it passes to the left
between the 2 metal
discs.

Thread Break Sensor
Thread this like the upper
tensioner turn to the left.
Make sure the thread falls in
the groove as shown.


Lower Tensioner Thread makes
1 full turn clockwise around the
base of the knob make sure it
runs in the
V-shaped groove of the spoked
wheel.
-Proper Thread Routing: All threads must be routed
correctly at all points along the path through the sewing
head.


-Practice good thread Discipline: After threading
all needles, ensure there is no slack anywhere along
the thread path. Make sure to:


-Pull all threads to ensure thread feeds
smoothly and turns the break sensor, and all
slack is removed from around thread cones


-Dock all thread ends from each needle onto
the thread-holding spring. Prevents thread from
coming loose and catching where not desired.






PROPER MACHINE SET UP


Checking Bobbin
Reloading the bobbin correctly The bobbin will need to be replaced
frequently alowing only 30,000 to 60,000 stitches per spool. This has to be
done correctly every time.
Ensure bobbin turns
clockwise. Pull thread
through this slit.
Feed thread through
eye at the end of the
tension flap.
Pass thread under wire
loop at the top front of the
bobbin case.
PROPER MACHINE SET UP


CHECKING TENSION
The yo-yo test is very exact in checking tension. Perform this quick
check each time you re-load the bobbin. Practice until you are comfortable
doing this.
Check bobbin tension frequently when changing bobbins
Make small adjustments
no more than a or
turn in either direction
before re-checking tension.

TAKE CARE TO RE-INSERT THE RELOADED BOBBIN CASE
FULLY! Your machine will not sew any stitches unless this is done. At
worst, the needle & needle bar may strike the side of a poorly-inserted
bobbin case, breaking the needle and possibly putting needle depth out
of adjustment for that needle.
PROPER MACHINE SET UP
Needle Screen: Color sequence is set?
Refer to the image of the Needle (color setup) screen shown on the
bottom
(Optional) Color palette matches actual thread colors on each needle
(ensures accurate design preview)
Needle number assigned to every color block? (For blocks
with unassigned needle # (value=0), machine will stop sewing
and prompt for a color.


PROPER MACHINE SET UP
Frame Screen: Positioned in a selected hoop?
Referencing the diagram on the right on the Frame screen,
Has the hoop been selected that matches the actual hoop that will be
used? Is the design outline (in blue) inside the red safety line?
Has a trace been run?





Preparation of the Garment - Hooping
Hooping is the mechanical process for attaching a garment to the
embroidery machine for sewing purposes. This is accomplished by
mounting the area to be sewn in a special frame or hoop and then
attaching this to the pantograph of the machine. The pantograph
moves the garment as needed for proper needle penetration location.
Its movement is controlled by the software commands embedded in
an embroidery design file.
Hoop Shapes
Round or oval hoops provide the most even tensioning on fabric,
but dont accommodate elongated or square designs very well.
Rectangular hoops may be needed for dealing with square or
rectangular shapes, though the fabric tension is not equal at all
parts of the hoop.
Preparation of the Garment - Hooping
Hoop Selection
In general, always choose the smallest hoop for the job, as it will
provide the most support for the garment.
Be sure to account for the presser foot when choosing your hoop.
You will need at least one inch between the edge of the design
and the edge of the hoop to accommodate the presser foot.
Backing/Stabilizer: Choose the right type. Should be large enough
to overlap edges of hoop under the garment
Alignment and position: If the hoop isnt aligned on the garment, it
wont sew straight!
Tight but not too tight! Garment and backing should have no slack
or wrinkles inside hoop. Adjustment screw tightened enough to hold
garment in hoop while sewing.
Preparation of the Garment - Hooping
Round holes at bottom: Make sure hoop is on the shirt so that
round are towards the operator. Opposite end is towards machine.

TOWARDS
MACHINE
TOWARDS
OPERATOR
Preparation of the Garment - Hooping
Loading the Garment & Hoop
Positioning pins on arm must snap into round holes on end of
hoop to prevent unhooping during sewing.
Sewing arm goes INSIDE the garment, not UNDER, or
machine will sew front and back of garment together!
Loose items tucked out of the way. (sleeves, straps, etc)
Heavy items supported where possible to prevent item from
falling out of hoop. Sleeves, and body can rest on table or chair
underneath or to the side of machine if needed. Reinforce hoop
with clamps or tape if needed


Preparation of the Garment - Hooping
Positioning pins on arm must
snap into round holes on end
of hoop
Sewing arm goes INSIDE
the garment
Heavy items supported where possible to
prevent item from falling out of hoop
Loose items tucked out of
the way
EMBOIDERY CHECKLIST
PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE
Has a reputable digitizer digitized the pattern?
For the fabric being sewn?
Using proper stitch selection?
Does the design look correct and is it legible?
Spelling & lettering correct?
Lettering type clear and easily readable?
Capital or small case, font, spaced properly?
Size, boldness, height & weight?
Correct color and type Thread being used?
Correct color being used for each part of the embroidery
pattern?
EMBOIDERY CHECKLIST
PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE (cont.)
Correct type of thread (rayon, polyester, metallic, spun) to give
the desired appearance & end-use requirements?
High sheen appearance (Rayon, Polyester, Metallic)?
Low sheen or mate or dull appearance (Spun Polyester,
Cotton)?
Resistance to fading after laundry (Polyester)?
Specialty threads required (Metallic, variegated, space
dyed)?
Is the finished size of the embroidery pattern correct?
Meets specifications for the exact placement of the embroidery
pattern on the finished product?


EMBOIDERY CHECKLIST
BEFORE SEWING
Has the correct backing been selected?
Are any toppings or facings required?
Does the work order have the appropriate information regarding
starting points, etc.?
Have the proper embroidery thread types, sizes and colors been
selected and have they been loaded in the appropriate needle
positions?
Have the correct needle types and sizes been selected?
Have all bobbins been replaced to minimize bobbin changes?
Can the product being embroidered be hooped or framed
properly?
Are clear measurements available for proper placement of the
embroidery on the sewn product?

EMBOIDERY CHECKLIST
DURING SEWING
How often does the thread break? Are other threads available to
minimize interruptions?
How often does the bobbin run out of thread? Are bobbins
available with more yards per bobbin to minimize bobbin run-out?
Does the stitch balance look consistent from color to color on the
design?
Are machine thread tensions adjusted consistently from bobbin to
bobbin, from needle thread color to needle thread color?
Is the machine speed optimum for the pattern being sewn? Can
higher machine speeds be used to reduce cycle times?
Can the stitch density be reduced without causing grin-through
and maintaining stitch appearance?
Are the embroidery machines being utilized with minimum non-
sewing time?

EMBOIDERY CHECKLIST
AFTER SEWING
Does the embroidery have the proper registration?
Was the fabric properly hooped to minimize distortion of the fabric
that the pattern was sewn in to?
Was the embroidery pattern aligned and positioned properly on
the sewn product?
Does there appear to be excessive pull causing grin-through or
distortion of the sewn pattern?
Are all points clean with corners finished properly?
Are any parts of the embroidery too bulky or thick?
Are there any threads that were not trimmed properly?
Is there any fabric grin through or gapping?
Are there any missed stitches due to thread breakage that need to
be repaired?




EMBOIDERY CHECKLIST
AFTER SEWING
Are stitches formed properly (not too loose or too tight)?
Signs of looping or malformed stitches?
Signs of poor tension control?
Bobbin thread seen on topside of embroidery?
Thread tension set so 2/3-needle thread to 1/3 bobbin thread seen
on backing side of embroidery on satin stitches?
Is there any damage to the fabric caused by the needle size or too
many stitches sewn in the same area of the pattern?
Excessive puckering or drawing up of the pattern?
Are there excessive hoop marks that need to be steamed away?





COMMON EMBROIDERY QUALITY DEFECTS
Poor Registration



DESCRIPTION: Where the stitches and design elements do not line up correctly. The
embroidery sewing process sews different colors at different times. If the fabric shifts
while one color is being sewn, then poor registration will occur when the next color is
sewn. Sometimes it is difficult to tell the difference between poor registration, poor
digitizing, and fabric grin-through or gapping due to thread pull.
SUGGESTED SOLUTIONS: Generally can be corrected by: 1) Digitizing properly
(using appropriate underlay stitches); and 2) Hooping properly (using correct backing to
prevent excessive material flagging).

COMMON EMBROIDERY QUALITY DEFECTS
Fabric Grin Through or Gapping





Not Digitized To Compensate
For Pull of Thread
Digitized To Compensate For
Pull of Thread


DESCRIPTION: Where the fabric is seen through the embroidery
design either in the middle of the pattern or on the edge.
SUGGESTED SOLUTIONS: Generally, can be corrected by: 1)
Digitizing properly (Using appropriate underlay stitches, increasing
stitch density, using different fill stitch pattern or direction, or
compensating for Pull of thread by overlapping fill and satin border
stitches); and 2) Using appropriate topping.


COMMON EMBROIDERY QUALITY DEFECTS
Missed Trim
DESCRIPTION: Where threads are left on the embroidery pattern
between images or lettering. Thread trims are digitized when changing
colors and when moving from one location to another using jump
stitches.
SUGGESTED SOLUTIONS: Generally, can be corrected by: 1)
Digitizing properly (Using appropriate number of trims, using
appropriate tie- off stitches, or replacing trimming knives when
necessary); and 2) Hand trimming missed trims using trimming snips
COMMON EMBROIDERY QUALITY DEFECTS
Bunching at Corners
DESCRIPTION: Where the corners of lettering or shapes are not
sharp and crisp but are bunched up or distorted. Usually caused by
too much thread in the corners due to poor digitizing. This includes: 1)
Not using appropriate stitch selection , 2) Not using Short stitches in
corner, and 3) Poor stitch balance thread too loose..

SUGGESTED SOLUTIONS: Generally, can be corrected by digitizing
properly: 1) Using appropriate stitch selection, and 2) Using short
stitch cornering, and 3) Correcting stitch balance
COMMON EMBROIDERY QUALITY DEFECTS
Poor Stitch Balance
DESCRIPTION: where white bobbin thread shows on the topside of
the embroidery. Ideally, the needle thread should be held on the
underside of the seam, and not ever be pulled up to the topside.
Proper stitch balance can be checked on the underneath or backing
side of the embroidery by looking for 2/3 needle thread to 1/3 bobbin
thread on Satin stitches.
SUGGESTED SOLUTIONS: Generally, can be corrected by: 1) Using
quality embroidery needle thread, 2) Using quality pre-wound bobbins,
and 3) Setting machine thread tensions correctly.

COMMON EMBROIDERY QUALITY DEFECTS
Embroidery Too Thick
DESCRIPTION: Where the embroidery is too thick and uncomfortable.
Can be caused by too high of a stitch density or not using the correct
backing for the application.
SUGGESTED SOLUTIONS: Generally, can be corrected by: 1)
Digitizing properly (Using appropriate stitch selection, using fewer
stitches, and using short stitches on corners); 2) Making sure stitch is
balanced properly; 3) Using smaller thread size; and 4) Using the
correct backing (Using correct type and weight).

COMMON EMBROIDERY QUALITY DEFECTS
Poor Coverage Poor Stitch Density
DESCRIPTION: Where the stitch density is not thick enough and you
can see through the embroidery stitching.
.
SUGGESTED SOLUTIONS: Generally, can be corrected by: 1)
Digitizing properly (Using appropriate stitch selection, using more
stitches, and using underlay stitches); and 2) Using appropriate
backing & topping.