Embroidery:

It is a simple technique which involves very basic

things like needle and thread and stitches are laid on
the fabric according to the design pattern.

Embroidery is an art of handicraft and decorating fabric
with design stitches in strands of threads using a
needle. Embroidery may also incorporate other material
such as metals, pearls, beads, quilts, and sequins.

The quality of the embroidery depends upon the
fineness of the stitch, design pattern and the skill
involved.

VARIOUS STITCHES AND THEIR USES
The stitches used to create beautiful embroidery designs
(manual) are
Cross Stitch
Couched Stitch
Chain Stitch
Button Hole Stitch
Satin Stitch
Overlaid Stitch
Knot Stitch
Split Stitch
Back Stitch & Laced Back Stitch
Stem Stitch
Other Useful Stitches
Cross Stitch:
It is the most basic method of covering the textile
surface and was commonly used for needle work
carpets from the 17
th
century onwards as a durable
and quick ground stitch.

Couched Stitch:
It is an economical way of placing all the expensive
embroidery thread on the front of the fabric where it will
be seen, without wasting the thread on back side.
In earlier times when real gold was used as an
embroidery thread, this stitch was mostly used. The
other advantage of this stitch is that it rapidly covers
large area of fabric.
Threads are laid on the cloth and tacked down at right
angles with a self colored thread at intervals. This
technique is used exclusively with metal threads that are
expensive and difficult to thread through a needle and
through cloth.
Raised work or stump work is a variation of couched
stitching in which a layer of wadding is laid underneath
the couched thread, creating a three dimensional effect.

Chain Stitch:
It was used extensively in India, Turkey and Iran. It is
worked by stretching the fabric tightly over a frame and
piercing it with a sharp hook to pull the thread though
the fabric.

Button hole Stitch:
It is used to finish of the raw edges such as button hole
but can also be used as a decorative stitch when the
stitches are built up in rows. Patterns are created by
leaving gaps in the stitches.
SATIN STITCH

The satin stitch is also known as even stitch, because
the stitches can be arranged in regular flat rows, without
overlapping or gaps left between rows of stitching. This
stitch is used for making floral designs and also for
covering large areas to make a foundation layer on
which other pattern can be superimposed.
In satin stitch the lustrous threads can be laid
horizontally, vertically or diagonally at a 45-degree angle.

A variation of satin stitch is open fish bone stitch, which
is used primarily to embroider branches, leaves, animal
fur and birds feather.
OVERLAID STITCH
This very versatile stitch is formed with a foundation
layer of plain satin or one of its variations, after which
patterns in geometric or circular format are stitched on
top. The couched gold threads, sequins, beads or
buttons can be added, if required.
KNOT STITCH
This stitch is known under several names, including
Pekin knot, Chinese knot, Seed stitch, blind stitch and
forbidden stitch. The technique produces a knot that
can be applied in various ways, as an outline, to fill a
design, to depict the stamens of flower or in
combination with other stitches.
The general method of work is to twist the thread
once or twice around the needle to produce a knot.It
is important to note a few points when using this
stitch.
It may be worked clockwise or anticlockwise, to
accommodate the design.
The fineness, thickness, quality and type of thread that
is used determine the quality and look of the finished
embroidery.
Second and subsequent rows of knots are laid
between stitches of the previous row to form a neat and
solid stitched area, with no gap.
The direction at which the needle enters the fabric
determines the angle of the stitch. It is therefore
important to maintain the same stitching direction in
order to produce a neat and uniform finish.
SPLIT STITCH
This stitch offers a quick and easy way of filling large
areas of a design. It is also used as an outline,
especially when flowers are embroider with satin
stitch.
BACK STITCH
This produces a neat line and is used on its own to
embroider curved and long lines, such as hair or fish
fins, or in other decorative combinations.

LACED BACK STITCH
This stitch, also known as binding stitch, is similar to
stem stitch, except that it is more solid and durable.
Laced back stitch is used to embroider pillow cover
and curtains for doors.
It is a very simple stitch. Back stitch is laid as a
foundation and this is then laced with another thread
of the same colour or a different shade.

STEM STITCH
The Chinese name for this stitch is gun stitch. It is also
referred to as rolling stitch, rod like stitch and used to
embroider the stems of plants, flowers, branches or any
part of the design that requires linear effect.
The stem stitch is also used as a filling stitch. It works
well when used to stitch a tree trunk as it creates a solid,
textured effect, similar to that of split stitch.
OTHER USEFUL STITCHES
These stitches with an open appearance include fly
stitch, feather stitch, fern stitch and pine needle stitch.

FLY STITCH



FEATHER STITCH

FERN STITCH






PINE NEEDLE STITCH

Popular Embroideries (Traditional):
Phulkari Embroidery
Kantha Embroidery
Kashmiri Embroidery
Chikankari Embroidery
Phulkari Embroidery:
The traditional Punjabi embroidery art is phulkari. The
phulkari ward means growing flowers. This embroidery
form true to its name includes only floral motifs in
bright colors. The phulkari with very intricate floral
patterns is called Bagh that means garden. There are a
variety of phulkari such as Vari-da-bagh, Ghunghat
bagh, Bhawan bagh.



Kantha Embroidery:
A Kantha is a type of delicate embroidery sari popular
in West Bengal, India. Women in Bengal typically use
old saris and cloth and layer them with kantha stitch to
make a light blanket or bedspread, especially for
children. There are a variety of Kantha such as Oaar
Kantha, Sujani Kantha, Rumal Kantha etc.



Kashmiri Embroidery:
Kashmiri embroidery, also known as Kashida, has
definitely been inspired by the beautiful natural
surroundings of Kashmir. Wool or cotton is the base
cloth used. Most often they are in shades of white or
some similar light shade. Sozni embroidery, Papier-
mache embroidery, and ari or hook embroidery are
individual styles of Kashmiri embroidery. The motifs of
flowers, creepers and chinar leaves, mango etc. are the
most common for this embroidery. ones. The whole pattern
is created using one or two embroidery stitch styles.

Chikankari Embroidery:
Chikankari was nurtured in Uttar Pradesh and primarily in
Luck now. The work is done on very fine muslin and now
on georgette and chiffon and other fine fabrics. It is more
suited for the outerwear but these days there are certain
exclusive creations using Chikan work in Cushion
covers, pillow covers etc. Traditionally Chicknkari is the
white thread embroidery done on the white muslin or
mulmul. In this the herringbone stitch or Bakhiya as
called locally is worked on the wrong side of the cloth.
Looking on the right side the effect is that of the
shadows between the double running stitch.

TYPE OF STITCHES
IN WINGS EMBROIDERY SOFTWARE
The stitches used to create beautiful embroidery designs
(machine) are
MANUAL STITCH
RUNNING STITCH
SATIN STITCH
STEP STITCH
ZIG-ZAG STITCH
SATIN SERIAL STITCH
PIPING STITCH
PHOTO STITCH
CROSS STITCH

FUNCTION OF STITCHES


MANUAL STITCH

Manual stitch is the most simple & basic stitch in
which a straight line connects the nodes that are
added. The stitch can be placed exactly at the
desired position.
The changeable parameter in this type of
stitches are-

The maximum length.
The style of stitch.

RUNNING STITCHES

Running stitch can be defined as a smooth curve
that connects the nodes which are added. It is one of
the most common stitch type in the embroidery life
cycle. Running stitch can be made by simply
punching on the working area and creating the
shape as required for the embroidery.

The changeable parameter in this type of stitches are-

Length of stitch
Fix & lock (at start & end of the object)
The offset of stitches according to the punching curve
Repeats (as per requirement)
Style of stitch (Choose default styles or create Tools menu)
Incline (Useful for punching small objects)
Sequins (add sequins to the running design)
Sequins Technique (Star, Forward, backward, bunch etc)
Skip Sequins (Select no. of sequins to be skipped)
Closest Point (Connection of the current object)
RUNNING PLAIN
RUNNING WITH STYLE
RUNNING WITH SEQUINS
SATIN STITCHES

In this type of stitch, a smooth curve connects the
nodes that are added and the total path & figured
area is filled by the stitches. The most important
thing in using satin is that node point are added in
pairs. The program automatically adds the direction
of stitches which connect a pair of nodes. The
direction of stitches can be edited independently of
node placements.

SATIN PLAIN
The changeable parameter in this type of stitches are-

Density (Distance between Stitches in mm)
Type of underlay (Tacking, single/Double, Zigzag, Cross)
Fix & lock (at start & end of the object)
Corners (needed in case of steep change in direction)
% of compensation (Satin width longer than the outline)
% of random width (To avoid overlapping of stitches)
Style selection (Choose default styles)
Pattern Selection (Choose default patterns)
Length of Pattern (Pattern length can be specified in mm)
Short/Long stitch (Steep change in the direction of satin)
Half pitch compensation (at the start & end of the Satin)
SATIN WITH STYLE
STEP STITCHES

In order to create a step stitch object we have to
specify first the direction of stitches & after this the
outline which will be filled by the step stitches. The
direction of the step can be set with the first two
nodes.


The changeable parameter in this type of stitches are-

Density (Distance between Stitch in mm)
Length of stitch
Type of underlay (Tacking, single/Double, Zigzag, Cross)
Fix & lock (at start & end of the object)
Square end (on the edge of the step)
% of compensation
% of random width
Length of gradient
Style selection


STEP WITH STYLE
STEP PLAIN
ZIG-ZAG STITCHES

It is vary similar to satin stitches & look like
very same as satin. In this case, a smooth
curve connects the nodes that are added.
The most important thing in using satin is that
node point are added in pairs. The program
automatically adds the direction of stitches which
connect a pair of nodes. The direction of stitches
can be edited independently of node placements.
The changeable parameter in this type of stitches are-

Density (Distance between Stitches in mm)
Type of underlay (Tacking, single/Double, Zigzag, Cross)
Fix & lock (at start & end of the object)
Corners (needed in case of steep change in direction)
% of compensation (Satin width longer than the outline)
% of random width (To avoid overlapping of stitches)
Style selection (Choose default styles)
Pattern Selection (Choose default patterns)
Length of Pattern (Pattern length can be specified in mm)
Short/Long stitch (Steep change in the direction of satin)
Half pitch compensation (at the start & end of the Satin)

ZIG-ZAG STITCH
SATIN SERIAL

The satin serial stitch is defined by a smooth curve
which connects the nodes that are added. It is a very
useful stitch which is mainly used to create borders in
step shapes & outline objects.

The most important thing in using satin serial is that
single curve made of node points are to be added and
the program automatically creates the satin bar with
constant width.
The changeable parameter in this type of stitches are-

Density (Distance between Stitches in mm)
Width of satin bar
Type of underlay (Tacking, single/Double, Zigzag, Cross)
Fix & lock (at start & end of the object)
Corners (needed in case of steep change in direction)
Offset of Satin serial
% of random width (To avoid overlapping of stitches)
Style selection (Choose default styles)
Pattern Selection (Choose default patterns)
Length of Pattern (Pattern length can be specified in mm)
Short/Long stitch (Steep change in the direction of satin)
Half pitch compensation (at the start & end of the Satin)
variable pitch
Closest point
SATIN SERIAL PLAIN
SATIN SERIAL WITH STYLE
PIPING STITCHES

In piping stitch a smooth curve connects the node
that are added. The most important thing in using
piping stitch is that node point are added in pairs
just like Satin or Zigzag. The program automatically
adds the direction of stitches which connect a pair
of nodes. The direction of stitches can be edited
independently of node placements.
The changeable parameter in this type of stitches are-

Density (Distance between Stitches in mm)
Stitch length
Fix & lock (at start & end of the object)
Stitch type (Chain/Loop)
% of random width (To avoid overlapping of stitches)
Style selection (Choose default styles)
Pattern Selection (Choose default patterns)
Short/Long stitch (Steep change in the direction of satin)
Closest point
PIPING STITCHES
PHOTO STITCHES

This type of stitch is very rarely used. The
outline of the objects can be punched in photo
stitches. The program automatically recognizes
the graduation of colours of any backdrop image
& sets fill stitches on it. The fill stitches are satin
bars that cover the backdrop image area.


The changeable parameter in this type of stitches are-

Width of the satin bars
Starting density of satin bars which cover the backdrop
Negative function (Invert photo stitches & get opposite
results)
Compensation (% width of satin stitch bars according to
out line width)
Gamma function (adjust brightness of mid tone stitches.
The gamma value range is 0.5 to 4.5)

PHOTO STITCHES
CROSS STITCHES

With this type of stitch any design can be created
having cross marks. When the cross stitch type is
selected and diziting tool of the Modes tool bar
is clicked, the mouse becomes a pencil. With click
and drag the area (rectangle) can be selected
covered with cross stitch.



The changeable parameter in this type of stitches are-

Width of cross stitch
Height of cross stitch
Fix & lock (at start & end of the object)
Repeats
Short/Long stitch
Closest point


CROSS STICHES