UNIT II

Hand Embroidery Stitches

The stitch is worked by passing the needle in and out of
the material.
Running stitches may be of varying length, but typically
more thread is visible on the top of the sewing than on the
underside.
Running stitches are a component of many traditional
embroidery styles, including kantha of India and
Bangladesh, and Japanese sashiko quilting.
Running stitch
Running stitches are used in hand-sewing, in hand patchwork
to assemble pieces, and in quilting to hold the fabric layers
and batting or wadding in place.
Loosely spaced rows of short running stitches are used to
support padded satin stitch.
This stitch is used for outline and padding. The needle is
carried in and out of material, making small up and down even
stitches.
Take several stitches on needle before drawing it through.
There are many varieties of running stitch like,
Interlaced double running stitch
Double Running Stitch
Stepped Threaded Running Stitch,
Threaded running
Whipped running

Stepped running stitch
Looped Running stitch
c) Laced Running stitch
d) Interlaced running stitch
e) Whipped Running Stitch
f) Parallel running stitch
g) Holbein stitch
Also known as : Double running stitch, Line stitch, Two-sided Line stitch,
Two-sided Stroke stitch, Square stitch, Chiara stitch
Starts as a running stitch which doubles back on itself.
This results in a reversible pattern, producing the same
finish on the back as the finish on the front.
Made from two passes of the thread, this stitch gives a
neat back and is therefore used for Black work.
The double-running employed in Black work is often
called Holbein stitch.
DOUBLE - RUNNING STITCH
Outline design in running stitch, then weave a
thread in and out of running stitch.
A contrasting thread may be used if desired.

Threaded Running Stitch
The term couching is taken from the French word 'coucher',
which means to lie down.
Also known as convent stitch and kloster stitch, Couching is
extremely simple to work.
from the back of the fabric with a large eyed needle.
Used in Brazilian embroidery to create fine lines of green
growth. We call it "fine growth".
Medieval embroiderers made full use of couching to be
economical with expensive threads, such as gold thread, on the
surface of the work
Couching Stitch
Hold a heavy thread or cord or several threads along the line to be
followed.
Bring needle, threaded with finer thread, up close to cord.
Thrust needle down on opposite side of cord to make a stitch at right
angles to it.
Bring needle up to left in position for another right angle stitch.
Continue taking stitches over cord, spacing them evenly.
Take the heavy thread to the back of the fabric with a large needle
and secure both ends of the heavy thread by using a few small
stitches.
The second thread can be arranged in patterns - as in laid work

The basic stitch is worked from right to left keeping
distance between stitch beginnings equal and consistent.
Backstitch is usually used to outline items in a piece of
needlework, although it can be recommended for things
like stems of flowers, etc.
It is called backstitch because one literally makes small,
straight stitches backwards from what one would
normally do.
Back stitch
A stitch made by setting the needle back of the end of
the last stitch, and bringing it out in front of the end.
Backstitch is a continuous chain of overlapping stitches
that outlines an embroidered design.
The backstitch appears frequently in black work
embroidery, a centuries-old form of elegant needlework
featuring geometric designs made with black silk thread
on white or ivory linen.
Backstitching should be done after design is completed
This is a kind of filling stitch which is ideal for making
leaves or feathers.
It requires us to divide the pattern into two and each
side is filled alternately giving it a plaited effect in the
centre, thus ideal to make leaves or feathers.
The following leaf figure is divided in the centre with a
stitch line and named the lines as X, Y and Z.

FISHBONE STITCH
Open Fishbone stitch
This stitch is similar to the fishbone stitch, with a requirement to divide the pattern
into two. The difference is that the stitches in the centre of the pattern does not fall
on the stitch line, but on its either sides. This helps to make the stitches far spaced
to create the open fishbone effect.
Satin stitch is also known as damask stitch.
Oldest stitches evolved and is used for filling not too broad
spaces.
It is quite commonly used in different traditional embroidery
forms of India, China and Japan.
The Satin stitches are limited both in their application and
effect.
Church embroidery over cartoons is Satin stitch; so are also
large portions of Italian and Spanish sixteenth century work.
It consists in placing parallel stitches completely over a given
form, allowing no break in the surface. Working the stitch is
quite simple.
Satin Stitches
Bring the thread up through the fabric and make a single
straight stitch.
Bring the needle out very close to the stitch just made
and continue to fill the shape.
Care should be taken not to use the stitch for broad
areas as the stitch tends to loosen with time.
Other versions of satin stitch like long and short are more
suitable for the purpose.

SATIN STITCH FAMILY
Whipped satin stitch
Encroaching satin stitch
Brick stitch
This stitch is a way of filling patterns, especially when the pattern is very big for the
normal satin stitch to be followed. Here, the stitches are laid in a brick like fashion.
Shading can be done using this stitch. This kind of stitch cannot follow curves
easily.
The stitches in the first row are alternately long and short,
and closely follow the shape of the outline.
In the following rows, the stitches are even in size and
worked to achieve a smooth appearance.
The diagram shows how to achieve a shaded effect.

LONG AND SHORT STITCH
Buttonhole stitch is also known as blanket stitch
because it was often used as an edging on blankets.
The buttonhole stitches, also called Overcast stitches,
are worked in the hand.
Buttonhole can also be worked in freeform manner with
rows stacked to create texture as in the illustration to
the right.
Buttonhole stitch
This stitch is worked from left to right over two imaginary
lines.
Bring the thread out on the lower line, insert the needle in
position in the upper line making a straight downward motion
and then loop the thread under the needle point.
Pull the needle through the fabric to form a loop and repeat
this process along the line.
By altering the lengths of the upright stitches buttonhole can
be both decorative and practical. Basic buttonhole stitch is
the foundation for a family of stitches.
Remember the stitches should always be taken at right
angles to the direction of the curve in the scallop one is
working

Some people find it better to work the knot with the fabric
stretched in an embroidery hoop using a chenille or straw
needle.
French Knot is also known as French dot, knotted stitch,
twisted knot stitch and wound stitch.
The weight of the thread will determine the size of the
finished stitch
FRENCH KNOT
Bring the thread out at the required position
Hold the thread down where it emerges with the left thumb
and encircle the thread twice with the needle.
Still holding the thread firmly with your thumb, twist the needle
back to the starting point and insert it close to where the
thread first emerged (not in the exact place or it will simply pull
back through).
Pull the needle through to the back, leaving a small knot on
the surface, as shown, or pass on to the position of the next
stitch as at B.
The Wheat Ear is a combination of
the Lazy Daisy Stitch and the Fly
stitch worked together to form a
wheat ear design. They may be
worked individually as a spot motif
or as a continuous line, as shown in
the illustration below. This stitch is
suitable for working leaves and
grasses.
Single Wheat Ear
A fly stitch is made first; this is like a
lazy daisy stitch opened out. A lazy
daisy stitch is then worked with the
tips of the loops hooked into the
base of the fly stitch.

CROSS STITCH
Cross stitch, which is also known as sampler stitch,
Berlin stitch and point de marque, is currently very
popular due to a huge industry in designs and kits.
Late twentieth and early twenty first century cross stitch
are very famous.
It is one of the oldest stitches in the history of textiles and
used world wide today as in the past.
Cross stitch
Although the actual construction of cross stitch is the same
there are different ways of working.
One rule remains constant, and that is, that the top diagonals
should always lie in the same direction.
This rule however, is broken by some contemporary
embroidery if a deliberate effect is desired in which case the
top diagonals will vary in order to catch the light in a particular
direction or simply to break up the even surface.
Cross stitch is based on the simple action of crossing one
thread against the other.
This action in stitching has been used around the globe since
the beginning of textile history.
For this reason, there are many variations to Cross stitch and
some listed here.
They are Alternating cross stitch, Rice stitch, Double cross
stitch, Long arm cross stitch and Montenegrin
Cross Stitch Family
On the right side, this stitch resembles two rows of
backstitch and on the wrong side the catch stitch.
Slant the needle the same as if making a catch stitch,
make a single back stitch, first on the lower side and then
diagonally across on the upper side.
Work this stitch on transparent material so the crossing of
threads shows through to right side.
This stitch is often called herringbone stitch when
crosses are worked on right side
Crossed Backstitch or Shadow Embroidery
Chain stitch is also known as tambour stitch and point
de chainette.
Chain stitch is one of the oldest of the decorative
stitches and is the basis of a large group of stitches.
It has a long history and is widespread, throughout the
world.
It is believed to have originated in Persia and India,
where it is worked with the aid of a fine hook known as
an 'ari'.
In the west this tool which looks like a crochet hook, is
known as a 'tambour' hook.
The needlework produced using this method is known
as tambour embroidery.
CHAIN STITCH
A large variety of threads can be used
from the finest silk to ribbon; the size of
the stitch will depend on the weight of
the thread used.
There are variety of chain stitches
namely Zigzag Chain, Twisted Chain,
Double Chain, Open Chain, Chequered
Chain, Cable Stitch, Lazy Daisy Stitch,
Wheat Ear, Backstitched Chain, etc
Chain stitch is simple to work.
Bring the needle up through the fabric and hold the
thread with the left thumb.
Insert the needle back into where it first came out.
Take the needle through the fabric bringing the point of
the needle out a short space along the line to be stitched.
With the thread wrapped under the needle point pull the
needle through the fabric
There are variety of chain stitches namely
Zigzag Chain
Twisted Chain
Double Chain
Open Chain
Chequered Chain
Cable Stitch
Lazy Daisy Stitch
Wheat Ear
Backstitched Chain etc.
This is worked with two threads of different colours,
both threaded into the same needle.
As the name implies, one loop is of one colour and
the next of the other.
Pass one thread at a time under the needle to form
the loop.
The colours are used alternately to give a
chequered effect
Chequered Chain
Zigzag Chain
The Zigzag Chain is worked in a
similar way to chain stitch, but
the stitches are made between
two lines. Insert the needle first
on the right side and then on the
left to form a border.
Chequered Chain
This is worked with two threads
of different colours, both
threaded into the same needle.
As the name implies, one loop is
of one colour and the next loop is
of the other. Pass one thread at
a time under the needle to form
the loop. The colours are used
alternately to give a chequered
effect
Stem stitch has many other names like crewel stitch, stalk
stitch and South Kensington stitch.
It is an outline stitch and is commonly used in stems.
It is worked from left to right taking small regular stitches along
the line of the design.
The thread is kept to the right of the needle after picking up a
small piece of material. T
he needle always emerges from the left side of the previous
stitch.
It is worked in a forward and backward motion.
Each stitch move a step back along the previous stitch.
Stem Stitch
This stitch is also known as the Link Stitch.
A single chain stitch tied down with a small stitch.
This stitch may be used singly to form a spot pattern
over a large area or may be clustered together to make
small flowers.
Lazy Daisy Stitch

This is an interesting variety of chain stitch,
especially if worked in thick thread.
First work a line of chain, then, with a contrasting
colour, make a line of back stitch down the center
(see illustration below).
Backstitched Chain
The Wheat Ear is a combination of the Lazy Daisy Stitch
and the Fly stitch worked together to form a wheat ear
design.
They may be worked individually as a spot motif or as a
continuous line, as shown in the illustration below. This
stitch is suitable for working leaves and grasses.
A fly stitch is made first; this is like a lazy daisy stitch
opened out.
A lazy daisy stitch is then worked with the tips of the
loops hooked into the base of the fly stitch.
Wheat Ear
Fly stitch is also known as 'Y' stitch, and open loop stitch.
Fly stitch is worked easily since it is made up of a V-
shaped loop which is then tied down by a vertical straight
stitch.
Fly stitch
To begin Fly stitch, bring the thread through the fabric out
at the top and to the left of the line that is to be worked.
Hold the thread down with the left thumb and insert the
needle a small space, level and to the right of where the
thread first came out.
Make a small stitch downwards to the center.
With the thread wrapped under the needle, pull it through
the fabric and secure it in position with a small loop.
The tying stitch that secures the loop can vary in length
to produce different effects.
Herringbone stitch is also known as Mossoul stitch,
Persian stitch, Russian stitch, Russian cross stitch,
plaited stitch, catch stitch and witch stitch.
Herringbone is an old stitch which has many variations.
Herringbone creates a regular crossed zigzag line. This
can also be called a little modified cross stitch.

Herringbone Stitch
This stitch is worked from left to right along parallel lines.
To keep the width of the stitches even, guide-lines need to be
marked on the fabric.
To do this, use one of the fade out or water dissolvable pens
available.
Commence by bringing the needle out on the left-hand side of
the line to be worked.
Make a small stitch on the upper line which points to the left.
Keep the thread below the needle and pull it through the
fabric.
Insert the thread on the lower line a little to the right and make
a small stitch which points to the left.
Pull the needle through the fabric with the thread above the
needle

Bullion knot is also known as bullion stitch, caterpillar
stitch, and coil stitch, grub knot, knot stitch, post stitch,
Porto Rico rose and worm stitch.
Bullion knot is a versatile stitch which can be used as
an accent or massed together to create a dense
texture.
The weight of the thread used, determines the size of
the finished knot.
We can create interesting effects by using two or three
contrasting fine threads threaded in the needle at the
same time.

Bullion knot