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Summary of my research done for PhD degree. It covers development of a novel and functional denim and an equation for the prediction of thermal resistance under dynamic wet conditions.
Summary of my research done for PhD degree. It covers development of a novel and functional denim and an equation for the prediction of thermal resistance under dynamic wet conditions.
Summary of my research done for PhD degree. It covers development of a novel and functional denim and an equation for the prediction of thermal resistance under dynamic wet conditions.
(left traditional denim and right functional denim) 5/18/12 1 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat
The Effect of Moisture and Finishing on Thermal Comfort and Selected Mechanical Properties of Denims with a Portion of Synthetic Fibres
Muhammad Mushtaq Ahmed Mangat 5/18/12 2 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Author: Muhammad Mushtaq Ahmed Mangat Fields of doctoral studies: Textile Evaluation Time of study : Continuous Department: Textile Evaluation Supervisor: Prof. Lubo Hes PhD., DSc. Supervisor Specialist: Prof. Ji Militk, PhD.
5/18/12 3 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat SUMMARY First objective of this study was to develop a model for the prediction of thermal resistance of fabric made by using different types of fibres under wet conditions. Second target was to manufacture denim able to provide better thermal and sensorial comfort under wet conditions. For this purpose, 180 denim samples were produced and more than 3000 different tests were carried on ALAMBETA, PERMETEST, KES 4, Moisture Management Tester, UNIEG for bending force, ATLAS for Air Permeability Tester and DATA COLOR. Results show that thermal resistance prediction model has a substantial agreement with actual values. Considering the outcome of the study, I can suggest this model for the use of thermal resistance prediction under dynamic wet conditions of fabric made by using different yarns. Moreover, denim made by using spun polypropylene as weft yarn provides better thermal and sensorial comfort to wearers under dynamic wet conditions.
5/18/12 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat 4 Parts of Presentation Part one Description of objective and current state of issue, developing of framework and model for thermal resistance prediction Part two Sample development, testing and evaluation of results Part three Development of functional denim and discussion about merits and demerits, summary and future research prospects Part four Observation of reviewers and Explanations
5/18/12 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat 5
Subject Matter and Objective Of Work
Development of a model to predict thermal resistance of fabric under dynamic wet conditions
Investigation of changes in thermal parameters (conductivity, absorbtivity, resistance) and sensorial behavior of 180 denim samples by doing objective and subjective evaluation
Development of a denim which should remain dry and warm under dynamic wet conditions by doing scientific analysis with the help of eight most modern testing equipments
5/18/12 6 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Thermal conductivity prediction Many people tried to develop models to predict thermal conductivity under steady state conditions; Al Sulaiman, Crow, Militky, Takahasahi and Yamada, Following people tried to develop models under wet conditions to predict thermal conductivity: Hes, Haghi,
5/18/12 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat 7 Thermal resistance prediction model Under dry conditions: One model by Fahmy and Slater (1973), they used loss of sound energy as an indicator of thermal resistance. It has only R square value 0.29
Moreover: Air velocity as function of angle proved by [Andrea Halasova1, Zdenek Kus1, Antonin Havelka1, Viera Glombikova 1] It can be concluded that: Change of angle change of air flow change of sound velocity loss change in thermal resistance
. 5/18/12 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat 8 I could not find any model for the prediction of thermal resistance under dynamic wet conditions of fabric having different types of yarn This study is an effort to develop a model able to predict thermal resistance of fabric made by using different types of yarn under dynamic wet conditions
5/18/12 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat 9 Fabric and Water Fabric under wet conditions is composed of:
Fibres (polymers) Air (layers) Water (layers)
Thermal conductivity and thermal resistance of each matter is different.
5/18/12 10 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Sum of thermal resistance of different substances in fabric Thermal resistance in steady state conditions:
or
Where R-thermal resistance [m 2 K W -1 ], h is thickness of the slab [m], - thermal conductivity [m -1 K -1 W] of the material, q is heat flow Wm -2 , K is temperature
5/18/12 11 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat
R = K q
Sum of Thermal Resistances by Using Electric Resistance Analogy
In case of fabric, I do not have any information about the configuration of water, fibre and air:
They may be: Parallel or Series
5/18/12 12 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Complexity of Thermal Resistance Decrease in the resistance due to increase in water content. Decrease in thermal resistance due to decrease in thickness. Air is partially removed when fabric starts taking water content. Continuous evaporation, heat loss . Mechanical attachment and inside penetration of water molecules. Difficult to find exact configuration of air, water and fibres (polymers)
5/18/12 13 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Two Options Keep two independent variables; moisture and thickness and thermal resistance dependent variable
Keep one independent variable (moisture) and keep thickness constant, by taking average 5/18/12 14 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat I Applied I did in both way and found substantial agreement with actual values for denim made of 100% cotton
This approach gave results for denim made of 100% cotton (paper published on this topic).
However, for denim having more than one type of fibers was not possible and need very deep calculation. Matlab was also used but could not find better results
Finally, I used the second approach and kept thickness constant.
5/18/12 15 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Thermal Resistance Prediction Model Moreover, I used following approaches:
Unit cell is calculated yarn diameter and area covered by warp and weft problem of yarn, compactness, particularly in case of filament and blend of cotton and PET/PP. For this purpose I endeavoured to use Neckar model. Difficult to find yarn diameter having more than 70 filament and texture (mechanical and air) 5/18/12 16 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Conti Porosity of fabric to measure portion of air gap. Simulation of air, water and fibre. I tried many simulations of fibre, air and water and found best fit with the measured values Average thermal conductivity of different fibres. Thickness measurement at different pressures to counter the impact of hairiness. Took average of thickness
5/18/12 17 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Fabric surface Cell view of fabric 5/18/12 18 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Denim surface 5/18/12 19 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Preferred Method Taking average of thermal conductivity proposed by Militky Moisture content considering wet fabric as unit proposed by Hes. Measurement of thermal conductivity, thermal resistance and thickness proposed by Hes using Alambeta. Using porosity as discussed by Hes and Militky . Setting of Alambeta at 1000 Pa advised by Hes. Finding the suitable simulation by doing many hundred trials and checking agreement with actual values, mainly guided by Crow work.
5/18/12 20 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Equations Used For average thermal conductivity as proposed by Militky and moisture content [Hes]
5/18/12 21 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat
m = wet sample weight dry sample weight wet sample weight For Porosity
5/18/12 22 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat 5/18/12 23 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Thermal resistance of fibres, water and air (layers or gap) in fabric by using porosity and thickness
R a = h(1 e ) l a (1 m )
R w = h(1 e ) l w m 5/18/12 24 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Where h [m] is average, Rf , Ra Rw are thermal resistance of fibre, air gap (layers) and water. w, a is thermal conductivity of water and air is water content [1] in fabric, ratio of fibers present in the fabric (fiber volume ratio), 1-- porosity, wf is weighed average thermal conductivity of warp and weft.
5/18/12 25 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Best Simulation with Highest Agreement with Measured Values A number of possible configuartion were applied. Like, all in parallel, all in series, some parallel and some in series. Finally, found best agreement between measured and simulated valued by using the following arrangement:
Water and air in parallel Then in series with fibres
5/18/12 26 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Sum of thermal resistances
water and air parallel 1 R aw = 1 R a + 1 R w 1 R aw = 1 h(1 e ) l a (1 m ) + 1 h(1 e ) l w m 1 R aw = l a (1 m ) h(1 e ) + l w m h(1 e ) 1 R aw = l a (1 m ) + l w m h(1 e ) R aw 1 = h(1 e ) l a (1 m ) + l w m R aw = h(1 e ) l a (1 m ) + l w m 5/18/12 27 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Our Final Model
5/18/12 28 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Experimental part
Research design contains the following components: 1. Conventional and functional denim samples development 2. Denim sample testing 3. Data analysis Denim sample development Three types of weaves, five types of weft yarn and 12 types of industrial washing processes were used to develop 180 denim samples.
5/18/12 29 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Testing parameters
Following areas were selected for testing and evaluation: Thermal parameters Thermal conductivity Thermal absorbtivity Thermal resistance Air permeability Vapour permeability resistance Colour changes due to washing 5/18/12 30 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat conti Moisture management Moisture absorption rate and time for front and reverse side of denim Wetted radius of front and reverse side of denim Front and reverse spreading speed Accumulated one way transport index Overall moisture management index (OMMC) Kawabata Evaluation System for the testing of: Surface friction Geometrical roughness Warp and Weft Bending Force
5/18/12 31 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Conti Subjective evaluation for the testing of: Warm and cool effect, Softness, Smoothness, Stretch, Bulkiness Overall comfort Testing equipment Following testing instruments have been used for this study: ALAMBETA testing equipment has been used to measure thermal parameters [12]. PERMETEST for vapour permeability resistance [18] KES for testing of friction and geometrical roughness of denim Moisture Management Tester (MMT) to test the response of denim when water is dropped on its surface. UNIEG for bending force Air Permeability Tester ATLAS DATA COLOR 5/18/12 32 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Conti Subjective evaluation A group of 30 educated people was selected for the subjective evaluation. Testing conditions All tests were carried out in lab where temperature was kept between 20-22 and RH 20-25%.
5/18/12 33 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Experiment for thermal resistance model
Developed five denims. Removed all textile finishes . Dried in oven for more than 30 minutes at 100 centigrade temperature to have bone dry weight . Dip in water having wetting agent to get fully absorbed. Measured thermal resistance by using Alambeta. Conducted all tests in one day to avoid effect of climatic changes . Kept lab temperature around 20 centigrade by using air conditioning . RH was between 24-26 %. Avoid rubbing of the sample. Used natural evaporation process for loss of moisture. Each sample was tested nine times at different moisture levels.
5/18/12 34 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Sample Descriptions Denim samples 5/18/12 35 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Variation in Fabric Thickness
Variation in thickness due to:
Increase due to swelling of fibres.
Decrease due to adhesion of protruding fibres on the surface of fabric (water works as an adhesive).
I observed decrease in thickness under wet conditions due to adhesion of protruding fibres. There is 10-15% decrease in thickness from full dry to full wet sample
5/18/12 36 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat 0.700 0.750 0.800 0.850 0.900 0.950 0.01 0.06 0.11 0.16 0.21 0.26 0.31 0.36 0.41 0.46 0.51 0.56 D e n i m
t h i c k n e s s
( m m )
Moisture () Denim (cotton and Spun PP) thickness and moisture Denim thickness and moisture Power (Denim thickness and moisture) 5/18/12 37 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Thermal resistance prediction model under dynamic wet conditions Following model was applied to calculate thermal resistance and these values were compared with actual values. There is a substantial agreement between measured and calculated values. I applied this model in a separate study of knitted fleece fabric and found it useful
5/18/12 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat 38 5/18/12 39 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat 5/18/12 40 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat 5/18/12 41 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat 5/18/12 42 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat 5/18/12 43 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Discussion Results show that more than 70% reduction in thermal resistance happened during moisture content in the range 0.00 to 0.30 Which shows that minor amount of moisture in fabric, is responsible for the major reduction in thermal resistance. It verifies the work of Fahmy and Slater. They found major changes in initial stages of wetting Nevertheless, further increase in moisture has a little effect on thermal resistance. In case of denim used in this study, only 20-30% area of denim fabric is filled with polymers and the rest is composed of air. Porosity of denim is in the range of .70 to .80.
Continued.. 5/18/12 44 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat It is clearly visible from the Figures that the prediction has a substantial agreement with actual results.
Air has thermal conductivity 10- 15 times lesser than polymers and offers high resistance.
In such case, heat flow is stopped by air but when this air is replaced with water, thermal resistance of the whole fabric reduces drastically.
In this study our focus changes to thermal resistance of fabric due to presence of water in denim made by using different fibres. 5/18/12 45 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Second Part Assessment of types of weft and types of finishes under dry and wet conditions on:
Thermal conductivity, thermal resistance and thermal absorbtivity [Ws 1/2 m -2 K -1 ] Bending rigidity [mN] Change in colour [E] Water vapour resistance [m 2 Pa W -1 ] Air permeability [lm -2 s -1 ] Surface roughness [m] and coefficient of friction [1] Moisture management testing
5/18/12 46 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Result and Discussion Type of t will weave has no significant influence on thermal parameters (conductivity, resistance, absorbtivity) of denim. It is mainly due the fact that there is no change in porosity. Only change in surface appearance. It may make a sensorial difference.
There is a significant adaptation in thermal parameters due to the presence of textile auxiliaries by using split- plot technique. It is because textile finishes have different thermal conductivity than polymers etc.
Continued .. 5/18/12 47 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Conti Denims made by Spun PP and Air Textured PP as weft yarn exhibit greater consistencies under wet conditions as compared to denims made by using Polyethylene terephthalate (textured polyester) , cotton and SBC PP as weft yarn under wet conditions by comparing graphs. Spun PP can manage moisture and does not create a highly wet impression and keeps its dryness intact.
5/18/12 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat 48
Coefficient of friction of filaments is lower than the staple. Air texture, SBC and PET have low values as compared to cotton and Spun PP. There is the same case with the geometrical roughness. Denim made by SBC PP possesses the lowest geometrical roughness, nevertheless, cotton is second to it and Spun PP follows.
Apparently, there is no set pattern in the response of different denims when vapour permeability resistance was measured. I come upon a scattered picture, which registers that there are many factors, which are causing the vapour permeability. Nonetheless, denim made by cotton has lesser vapour permeability resistance.
Denim made by cotton and Spun PP has the highest airflow it is mainly due to the staple fibres used to make these yarns.
Continued .. 5/18/12 49 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Spun PP has the lowest bending force, which means that it creates fewer hindrances in the movement of a body.
Bleaching creates a drastic difference in colour changes. Nevertheless, there is no difference in functional and conventional denim behaviour. Functional denim has more difference than traditional from standard. It shows that we less amount of chemicals can bring same results in case of functional denim.
5/18/12 50 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Conti Subjective evaluation, people feel that Spun PP denim is softer and smooth. However, conventional denim is preferred in the area of overall comfort when it is compared with Spun PP denim. It confirms the measurement of bending rigidity
Study finds that people prefer the hand feel of denim treated with silicone softener as compared to cationic softener.
5/18/12 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat 51 5/18/12 52 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat 5/18/12 53 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat 5/18/12 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat 54 5/18/12 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat 55
Third Part Development of a new kind of denim
Problems with traditional denim. 1. Heavy and less thick. 2. Become wet soon. 3. Remained wet for longer time. 4. Lose thermal resistance and become cool, particularly area which touches chair etc during sitting. 5. More use of water and energy during production. 6. More chance of bacterial growth during wearing.
5/18/12 56 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Features of new denim made by using spun PP as weft
Advantages 1. Light weight having same thickness due to low density of PP (PP- 900-920, cotton >1500 Kg per cubic meter) 2. Less rigidtested by using bending rigidity instrument. 3. Higher air permeability as compared to traditional denim. 4. Minimum loss of thermal resistance power during wetting. 5. Has highest moisture management property 6. Needs less water for industrial washing due to major portion consist of hydrophobic material 7. Less need of hot air for drying 8. People may feel more moving comfort due to low rigidity
5/18/12 57 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Disadvantages
1. High vapour permeability resistance as compared to traditional denim. 2. Rough and un-even surface due to hairiness, which cannot be removed during production. 3. Low melting point, difficult to ironing 4. Cannot remove protruding fibres with singeing
5/18/12 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat 58 Results Traditional denim became wet soon and remain wet for longer time, It gave a cool feeling to wearer Functional denim remained dry for long time and got less amount of moisture and became dry soon and gave a warm effect 5/18/12 59 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Comparison of temperature of wet traditional and functional denim due to sweating (Used infrared thermometer)
5/18/12 60 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat Denim with PP Weft Denim 100% Cotton Day One [C] [C] 37.0 38.5 35.6 34.8 34.5 33.3 Day Two Day Two 33.0 38.5 38.4 35.5 36.2 35.4 Study Outcome A model to predict thermal resistance of fabric made by using hydrophobic and hydrophilic fibres. This model can predict the loss of human body heat at particular level of moisture. It can be used for the development of fabric for people working high humid conditions (sweat shops, on mountains, sailing, under rain etc)
We have applied this model for knitted fleece fabric made of cotton and polyester. Study is underway, initial results show a great agreement between measured and calculated values.
Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat 61 Conti A new kind of denim which may replace traditional denim. Cost of PP is 10-20% higher than cotton. It replace maximum 40-50% cotton portion. It will be more environmental friendly, stronger, less rigid, better moisture management, no favorable environment for the growth of germs, safe for skin, keep human body dry and warm. Partial replacement of cotton reducing load on cotton production Able to recycle easily as compared to cotton Fit for people doing some industrial functions
5/18/12 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat 62 Patent application We have applied for its patent keeping TUL as major partner in:
Czech Republic Pakistan 5/18/12 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat 63 For Your: Kind Attention Kind Patience Kind Presence Kind Time Kind Listening 5/18/12 Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat 64 Many thanks to: