Yarn Classification & Terminology

Fabric Science I
Subject Code B FP (T) 1 09 T

National Institute of Fashion Technology, India

Unit-6
Types of Yarn and Classification
Content

6.1 Classification
6.2 Structure
6.3 Twist
6.4 Properties
6.5 Uses
6.6 Fancy yarn
6.7 Yarn Numbering System
6.8 Sewing Threads

Fabric Science-1 Unit-6
Yarn
Yarn is a grouping of fibers arranged in parallel
and twisted together (staple fiber or Filaments)
to form a continuous strand with twist or without
twist.

Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked
fibers, suitable for use in the production of
textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving,
embroidery and rope-making

6.1-Textile Yarn Classification
6.2 Structure
Single yarn:
It s made from the group of
filaments or Staple fiber

Double yarn:
Its made by twisting together
two single yarn

Cabled Yarn:
Its made by twisting together two
or more doubled yarn

Yarns Spun and Filament

The process of twisting fibers into yarn is called spinning.

There are two types of yarns spun and filament.

Spun yarns are composed of relatively short lengths of
fibre twisted together.

The short lengths of fibre are called staple fibres

It is important that staple fibres possess sufficient surface
friction to adhere to each other

Yarns Spun and Filament

Filament yarns are made from long, continuous strands of fiber.

Monofilaments made from a single filament, have limited use in
some decorative fabrics.

Multifilament yarns made by twisting many filaments together
loosely or tightly.

Spun Yarn

Spun yarn is manufactured from short fibres, which are called
as staple fibres.
So spun yarn can be otherwise called as staple yarn.
The yarn can be made from either natural or man-made fibres.
In case of natural fibres most of them will be short length.
A staple-spun yarn is a linear assembly of fibers, held together,
usually by the insertion of twist, to form a continuous strand,
small in cross section but of any specified length.

Synthetic Spun Yarn

In case of man-made
fibres all the types of
fibres are in the form
of continuous
filament.
To make spun yarn all
these filaments should
be cut into small
staple fibres at
required length.

Mono, Multi and Microfilament Yarns
Filament yarns may be composed of one single filament yarn or of
many filaments and are known as monofilaments or multi-filaments
respectively
An important physical difference is that a mono-filament yarn of a
given diameter is stiffer and less flexible than a multi-filament of
same diameter
And given two multifilament yarns of equal diameter(denier), the yarn
composed of fewer, but coarser, filaments is stiffer and less flexible
than the yarn consisting of a higher number of finer filament yarns
Technological developments in manufactured fibre processes have
made possible the generation of fibres such as nylon, polyester,
lyocell and others to be produced in diameters finer than
silk(microfilament)
These fine fibres are called microfibres and also known as
microdenier

Comparison of Spun and Filament

The three main properties used to compare are uniformity, yarn
smoothness& luster and yarn strength
Filament yarns are more uniform in diameter than spun
In filament yarns, the same number of filaments are present at every
point along the yarn
A multi filament yarn composed of 40 filaments has forty filaments
along its entire length
This is not the case with spun yarns, where, for example, at one
point there may be 40 fibres, at another, 43 and at still another 37
Filament yarns are generally smoother and more lustrous than spun
yarns


The smooth surface of the filament yarns can sometimes be
disadvantageous, causing yarns to slip and slip easily within a fabric

When a spun yarn is broken, some fibres break and others just slide
away from each other

When a filament yarn is broken, every filament in the yarn breaks

More twist in the spun yarn increases its strength by increasing the
pressure exerted on the fibres

Textured Multi Filament Yarn
To give the filament yarns the properties like bulkiness, strtchig &
soft hand which they are lacking, the yarn are texturised.
Texturising is given waviness artificially to the straight ;filaments of
synthetic yarns.
Two major types of texturised yarns are stretch yarn and bulk yarn.
There are several methods followed to manufacture these yarns.

a) Gear crimp method
b) Stuffer Box method
c) Knit-De-knit method
d) Edge crimping method
e) False twist method etc.

Gear crimp method
In this method of crimping (giving waviness) of yarn is done by heated
gear wheels.
As the yarn is passed between the wheels it is crimped into a jagged
fashion in conformation to the gear teeth and is heat se.
Since the fibre is a thermoplastic (becomes semi-liquid state when heated
) one of this crimp becomes permanent one in the yarn after cooling.
In other methods the crimp is given to the yarn in some other way.

Core Spun Yarns
Core Spun yarn structure is the combination of filament yarn and spun
yarn together.
The main advantage of filament yarn is its high strength and the main
advantage of the spun yarn is its bulkiness, soft handle and more
moisture absorption.
In the core spun yarn both the yarns advantages are combined.
In the core spun yarn filament yarn is kept in the middle and the staple
yarn is formed around it.
This core spun yarns are generally used as sewing thread in heavy sewing
applications.

Poly-Cotton Core Spun Yarn :
In this yarn multifilament core is of polyester and the sheath (the part
around the core) is formed by cotton staple fibres.
It helps to enjoy the benefits of cotton as well as the high strength of
filament yarn which cotton is lacking.

Poly-poly Core Spun Yarn :

In this yarn multifilament cores is of polyester filament fibres and the
sheath is formed by the staple (short length cut) polyester fibres.
It helps to get the good strength from both core and sheath polyester
fibres. Also it gives good resistance to abrasion.
6.3 Yarn Twist
In a yarn the fibres are hold together by twisting each other.

In spun yarn if the twist is not sufficient, the fibres cannot hold each
other firmly so the result will be the poor strength of yarn. Twist is
essential either in spun yarn and filament yarn.

There are two factors in twist to be considered.
Amount of twist &
Direction of twist.

The amount of twist is an important factor in finished consumers goods.
It determines the appearance as well as the durability and serviceability of
a fabric. The amount of twist also depends upon the type of fabric to be
woven.

Yarn Twist
Twist : Number of turns given to the yarns when it
is hold in the vertical direction
Twist direction S or Z
TPI Turns per Inch.

Structure

Z- and S-twist yarn

Yarn twist

Yarns are made by twisting together parallel or nearly parallel fibres

The amount of twist in a yarn is designated as TPI (turns per inch)

Spun yarns with relatively low twist (2 to 12 TPI) are called soft-
twist yarns and higher twist (from 20 to 30 TPI) are called hard-
twist

Filament yarns usually have very low twist (1/2 to 1 TPI)

Increasing twist decreases apparent yarn size
Strength increases in staple yarns as twist increases upto a certain
point

Beyond this point , the strength of the yarn begins to decrease

Twist in filament yarns does not increase strength but merely serves
to keep the filaments in the yarn together

Some filament yarns are purposely made with high twist to produce
a pebbly, harsh surface effect

These yarns are called crepe-filament yarns and the twist is referred
to as crepe-twist

Twist Direction

Two types of yarn twist: S and Z
In S-twist yarn, the spirals run upward to the left, corresponding to
the direction of the diagonal part of the letter S
In Z-twist yarn, the spirals run upward to the right, similar to the
diagonal part of the letter Z
Yarn twist direction is not an element of quality because it does not
affect properties such as strength and abrasion resistance
They are important to the fabric designer and stylist because the
direction of twist affects the surface appearance of fabrics
Crepe fabrics are sometimes made by combining S and Z twist yarns
to produce the balanced, pebbly effect on the fabric surface
6.4 Properties

* Yarns intended for soft-surfaced fabrics are given
low twists,
* Yarns intended for smooth surfaced fabrics are
given more twists.
* It contribute strength, smoothness, elasticity and
wrinkle resistant (the ability to become flat after
given some crease) to fabrics.
* Yarns intended for crepe fabrics are given
maximum twist.

Yarns classified by number of Parts Single, Ply and
Cord(Cabled) yarns

Yarns are also categorized as Single or Ply or Cord(Cabled)
When a ply yarn is untwisted, it separates into two or more finer
yarns and when a single spun yarn is untwisted, it comes apart
Ply yarn therefore may be defined as two or more single yarns
twisted together to form one new yarn
Plying of filament yarns can be done to produce unique effects on
novelty yarns and metallic yarns
Ply yarns require better-quality fibre, more labour and special
machinery and hence they are costly
Cord yarns are made by twisting together 2 or more ply yarns
Used in making ropes, sewing thread etc

Doubled Yarns

Consists of 2 or more single strands treated as one in the
weaving process but the strands are not twisted together

Ply and double are different as in case of ply they are twisted
and are more stronger than double yarns

Used for ornamental effect as it produces lustre and softness
Carded and Combed Yarns
It refers the method used to make cotton and cotton blend spun yarns

All staple fibres have to be carded to help clean and disentangle the
fibres

For less costly fabrics, the fibre is carded and formed into a thick rope
of loose fibres called sliver

The sliver is then made into yarn by drawing and spinning

For finer fabrics, the carded cotton in the form of sliver goes to the
combing unit, which further cleans the fibres and puts them in parallel
position
Combing also removes short fibres
Combed yarns have fibres in more parallel position and are in
uniform length, fewer impurities/dirts, uniform diameter, feel
smoother, softer and more expensive than carded yarns

Combed yarns are used in fine shirting and luxury sheeting

Denim and terry cloth are two fabrics typically made exclusively of
carded yarns

This gives denim the natural, rugged look

The fuzzy, soft bulkiness of carding helps terry cloth remove
moisture easily

6.5 Uses

6.6 Fancy yarns or Novelty yarns

Novelty Yarns
Slub Yarn

Snarl Yarn
Snarl Yarn
Spiral & Corkscrew
Corkscrew Yarn
Chenille yarn
Knot / Nub / Spot yarn
Knot / Nub / Spot yarn
Loop Yarns
Boucle or Loop yarn
Fancy yarns
Fancy Fabric
Fancy Garment

6.7 Yarn Numbering System

Yarn number is a numerical representation of linear of density of yarn.
In yarn there is a fixed relationship between the weight and length of the
yarn. This relation indicates the thickness of the yarn. The number is also
called as yarn count.
The count may be expressed according to the traditional method or based
on metric system of measurements.

Direct System
In the Direct System, Yarn number is calculated based on weight per unit
length.
Here the length is kept constant and weight is measure to calculate yarn
number.
In this system yarn number and yarn thickness are directly proportional to
each other, when the yarn thickness increases yarn number also will
increase.
Tex System : Tex system is called as universal system of yarn numbering.
This is followed all over the world.
Tex is calculated based on number of grams in one kilometer length of
yarn and that is the Tex number.
TEX
Denier
Indirect system
In this system yarn number is calculated based on length per unit weight.
Weight is kept constant and the length is measured to calculate the yarn
number.
Here the yarn number and thickness are inversely proportional , when the
yarn thickness reduces yarn number will increase.

Count = No. of 840 yards / 1 lb

Indirect (count system)
English Count System
Worsted System
Metric Count system

Yarn number
system
Symbolic
Abbreviation
Unit of
Length
Unit of
Mass
Unit of
Yarn count
Cotton
(English)
NeC 840 Yds 1lb 840 Yds/lb
Linen NeL 300 Yds 1 lb 300 Yds/lb
Woolen NaC 300 Yds 1 lb 300 Yds/lb
Wordsted NcW 560 Yds 1 lb 560 Yds/lb
Metric Nm 1 Km 1 Kg Km/Kg
Other Systems
Count Conversion
6.8 SEWING THREAD
Sewing threads are the linear mediums used to form stitches
in fabrics.
They are made from the same raw material used to make
yarns.
Sewing thread usually is less than 1/1000 th of the weight of
an apparel item, and yet it may carry more than one half the
responsibility for its performance.
There are different types and varieties of sewing threads
available.
Required Characteristics of sewing
threads

Must have,
High stability to bending
Good strength
Limited elongation
Minimal shrinkage and
Good abrasion resistance
Thread Numbering System

Sewing thread numbering system is slightly different from the regular
yarn numbering systems.

The commonest system and the one used for synthetic and core spun
threads is the metric ticket number system.

It is derived from the number metric (Nm) yarn count system which refers
to the number of 1000m hanks which weigh 1 Kg.

The metric ticket number system for sewing thread is based on a three
fold equivalent of the number metric system and relates its number to the
finished thread rather than to the single yarns from which it is made.
The ticket number is calculated via the resultant count, recalculated into
three fold terms whatever the number of plies of yarn twisted together to
form the thread.

The metric ticket number is arrived by multiplying the resultant thread
count by three.

Resultant count is arrived by dividing the single yarn count in the thread
by total number of plies.

For example, a sewing thread is made from Nm 120 number two yarns.
The resultant count of this thread is 120/2=60 and the ticket number of
this thred is 60 X 3 = 180.

Other examples are; a thread of Nm 80/2 is Tkt 120. Nm 30/3 is Tkt. 30,
Nm 20/1 is Tkt 60, Nm 60/3 is Tkt 60, Nm 40/2 is Tkt 60 etc.

Cotton sewing threads are sized on the cotton ticket number
system which works on the same principle but the figures do
not denote the same size in terms of diameter.

For example a cotton sewing thread is made from three 60 Ne
single yarns.

The resultant count of this thread is 60/3=2 Ne and the Tkt.
Number of this thread is 20 X 3 =60.

The sewing thread sizes available in the commonest types of thread i.e. spun
polyester or polyester / cotton core spun thread and their likely end uses are
given below.


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Fabric Science I

Subject Code B FP (T) 1 09 T

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