G.

Santhana Krishnan
SITRA
Textile fiber
1
Definision



A hair like substance that can be drafted
,twisted and make into fabric by weaving
or Knittting or nonwoven

2
Forms of fibers
Small lengths
Long lengths


Small length fibers are called as staple fibers

Long length fibers are called as filements


3
Staple fibers
staple fibers are range from 28 mm to 70 mm
The spinning system is used to convert these
fibers into yarns
The shortest length is 18mm and longest is 70
mm

4
Filements
Filements are very long fibers
They are mostly manmade fibers only natural
filement is silk
Two types of filements
1.Mono filement
2.Multi filement

In multi filement according to the fineness the
number of fibers in cross section get differs.
They hold together by a small twist
5
Essential properties
Length to dia ratio
Length should be always greater than dia , the
ratio should be more than 100 times
The minimum of this ratio should be 1:3000

Strength
The another important property is strength
1.While processing
2.While usage































6
Other important properties
1.Bending rigidity
Fibre should be flexible, so they able to bend
while twisting with out rupture.
2.Inter fiber cohesion
To hold fibers in a particular form

7
Types of yarns
100% Cotton yarn
100% Synthetic yarn
Blended yarn With different proportions
8
Raw Material
Accounts for 80% to 90% of the yarn quality
50% to 70% of the yarn cost
Evaluation of the raw material is therefore
important
Major raw materials are cotton, polyester &
viscose
Manufacture of a standard product from an
essentially non-standard and highly variable raw
material
Basic problem in a cotton textile mill
Fibre properties for different spinning
systems
Rank Ring
spinning
Rotor
spinning
Air jet
spinning
Open end
spinning
1

2

3

4

5
Length /
Uniformity
Strength

Fineness

-

-

Strength

Fineness

Length/
Uniformity
Cleanliness

-
Fineness

Length/
Uniformity
Strength

Cleanliness

Friction
Friction

Strength

Fineness

Length/
Uniformity
Cleanliness
LIMITS TO NUMBER OF FIBRES IN
YARN CROSS SECTION
COTTON:
RING 75
ROTOR 100
SYNTHETIC:
RING 50
ROTOR - 100
Varieties of cotton
13
Sea Island Cotton
Egyptian Cotton
Pima Cotton
American Upland Long
Staple
American Upland Short
Staple
Asia Short
Properties of Cotton depends on
Cotton variety
Growing areas
Climatic conditions
Rain fed or irrigation
Harvesting
Picking
Ginning
Packing and baling
Raw Material
Accounts for 80% to 90% of the yarn quality
50% to 70% of the yarn cost
Evaluation of the raw material is therefore
important
Major raw materials are cotton, polyester &
viscose
Raw Materials
Mixing of cotton with widely varying properties
like Length, Mic and Maturity
Honey dew problems
High trash content in one of the mixings
High Moisture level
Use of high proportion of soft waste
Improper Mixing/Blending

Selection of Cottons for Mixing
It would be difficult to get a single cotton of desired
quality at different times
When a single cotton does not satisfy the
requirements
Important factors - fibre length & its distribution
and fibre fineness
Contribution of fibre properties to yarn CSP
% Increase in Change in Yarn CSP by
50% Span length +0.5%
Fibre bundle strength +0.5%
Micronaire -0.5%
Maturity Coefficient +0.5%
COTTON MIXING FACTORS
TO BE CONSIDERED
3.0 % Trash %
1.2
Micronaire
Value
5 mm 2.5 Span length
DIFFERENCE PROPERTY
Classification of Cottons based on
Span Length
Class 2.5% Span Length (mm)
Extra long staple
Long staple
Medium staple
Short staple A
Short staple B

33.0 & above
29.5 to 32.5
25.0 to 29.0
20.5 to 24.5
20.0 & below
Fibre Length
Fibre length variability will cause problems at
every stage of processing such as blow room,
carding, drafting, etc.
Span length parameters are based only on partial
length of the fibres
Method of measurements
Hand stapling
Comb sorter
Optical scaning

22
Fibre extension from the clamp
Clamp Line
2.5% Span Length
The distance 2.5% of the fibres extend from the clamp
where they are caught at random along their length.
This length is numerically nearer to staple length
50% Span Length
The distance 50% of the fibres extend from the clamps where they
are caught at random along their length
Uniformity Ratio =
46 50% : Good, 45% : Average, 43% : Poor
Uniformity Ratio
50% Span length
2.5% Span length
X 100
Role of fiber properties
Length
Long fibers for strong and fine yarn
Strong by floating long length with min weak
places
Short fibers give filling and bulkier
5mm and below not contribute to yarn
structure
UR % should be high to produce uniform yarn
More short fibers causes loading of ducts, fly
libration and hariness
27
Application of length
Cotton fibers are measured in bundles
2.5%span length, 50% span length UR%
Uses:
1.Fix price
2.To decide setting
3.To assess the machine performance(fiber
rupture)

28
Single fiber length measurement
Using AFIS
AFIS length data
Used for process monitoring and control
1.To assess fiber rupture
2.To fix draw frame setting using 5% length







29
Short fibers
Gives bulkiness to yarn. Acts as fillers
Causes of short fiber are
1.Ginning
2.Improper speeds and settings
30
Fibre Strength
Very weak cottons will rupture during processing
in blow room and carding
Cottons with bundle strength of 15g/tex and lower
are generally sources of trouble

Fiber strength
Imprtant parameter after length and fineness
Fiber strength is important after length and
fineness

Strength depends on
1.Molecular structure
2.No of weak places
3.Fineness
4.Relative humidity
5.elasticity

32
Measurement of strength
Testing of ctton fiber strength
1.By stelo meter
2.By pressley
33
Fiber fineness
One of the three most important charectristics
It decides no of fibers in cross section
15000/micxct
Fineness range 2.9-6 micrograms/inch

34
Fineness influences
1.Spinning limit
2.Yarn strength
3.Evenness
4.Yarn fullness
5.Drape
6.Handle
Productivity of process
35
F Q I
Fiber Quality Index


F Q I=LUSM\F

F Q I=LS\F
36
Trash in cotton
Cottons having higher level of trash may need a
harsher treatment than the cleaner ones.
Cottons with large amount of trash should not be
blended with clean varieties
Mixing of cottons having trash content more than
3 % is not advisable
Trash
Non lint content present in fiber

It influences
Yarn realisation
Appearance

Importance
1.No of beating points
2.beats\inch
3.Dwell time
4.Suction speed
5.setting
38
Moisture
Cotton is hygroscopic nature
Strength depends on RH%
High moisture makes difficulty in opening
Low moisture leads to fiber breakages , fly
libaration
39
YR % = 97.5 t Wk - Wh ,
for carded counts
Where t = % trash in cotton
Wk - % card waste
Wh - % yarn waste
Yarn Realisation
Count YR %
20s 84-85
40s 85-86
60s 87-88
For MMFs, YR = 98%
Yarn Realisation
Other important properties
Fiber maturity
Growth of fiber(Primery wall)

Measurement of Maturity by caustic soda swelling

Maturity should between 50-80%
42
Proportion of Immature fibres increased by:
Adverse weather
Poor soil
Plant disease
Pests, etc
Main Trouble:
Nepping
Shade variation after dyeing

If Presence of Immature is more
1.Strength is affected
2.Neppiness
3.High short fiber
4.Process difficulties in card
44
Raw Material
Fibre fineness
Immature fibres
Honey dew
Dead seeds
Processed neps
Speeds & settings
Card clothing
Fly liberation
Cone winding
Cleanliness
Causes for Neps










Nep analysys

Fiber neps
Process neps
Nep data
1.Fiber nep
2.Seed coats nep

Alowable limt for neps in B\R 100% of mixing
Card should remove atleast 80-90%
46

CNS = in microns
22
Ne
Critical Nep size
Raw material selection
Blow room efficiency
Card room efficiency
Comber room efficiency
Change of mixing
Optimise processing parameters
Card clothing
Noil extraction
Machinery selection
Applications of CNS
Honey dew and wax
Hony dew due to insect secriation the allowable
limit is
0.4-0.8%
Wax is the natural luricant present on the surface
of cotton
Limit should be <0.5%

If these exceeds the limit causes
1.Roller lapping
2.Wax deposition on coats & apron


49
Man Made fibers
1.Semi synthetic fibers
2.Synthetic fibers
Around 60-70% world textile products depnds on
this

50
Properties for Manmadefibers
Length
Strength elongation
Fineness
Crimp
Spin finish
Delusturing agent

51
Fiber properties
Staple length
Length varies from 32 mm to 64 mm
Advantages of long length fibers
Low twist high strength
High production with high uniformity
Less hariness
Low pill tendency
Disadvantages
1.High nep
2.High cohessive force
3.Lapping in cards



52
More short length leeds to high twist causes
rough feel
More hariness
53
Fiber fineness
Fine fibers will cause difficulties in fiber
separation
Fiber length to dia ratio should be <25
If higher causes fiber damage
Ie)1.5den length 38mm
Coarser and rigid fibers produce stiffer yarn
54
Fiber tenasity
Minimum fiber strength is 0.6-0.7 gpd
Super high tenasity 6.8-7.8 gpd
55
crimp
Man made fibers are cylinder like structure
They have very smooth surface
No fiber friction
Fiber separation is difficult
Important of fiber movement in carding and
drawing
For psf 4.5 arcs\inch
For pan 3-5 arcs/inch

56
Insufficient crimp
Cylinder loading
Sagging web
Web rupture
Roller lapping
High crimp
Higher neps
Higher incidence of faults
Excess neps
undrafted

57
Spin finish
To reduce static charge
To import lubrication
Higher leads to roller lapping
58
Blending
Blending is mixing of two different fiber
components
Blending between
1.natural fiber with a manmade fiber
2.between two synthetic fibers
59
Purpose of blending
To use the advantages of both materials
1.To improve inferior material
2.Improved comfort
3.Increased durability
4.Improved asthetics
60