Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
John Galliano
Issey Miyake
Rie Kawakubo
Missoni
Manish Arora
Fashion as a platform
for scientific
exploration.
Discuss with relevant
examples to the topic like:
Elley Kisimoto
Fashion motivating
Michael Aram
technology to reinvent-
Mobiles
I-Pods
Intelligent fabrics
and garments
Nike-breathable sportswear
Wearable computers
Lycra-stretch, Nylon-stockings
Mobile phones, IPod, Discman
Donna Karan work-wear for women
Armani Suit
Kurti A kurta adaptation
Issey Miyake,
Yohji Yamamoto,
John Galliano,
Alexander McQueen.
John Galliano
Manish Arora
Alexander Mc Queen
He was a Brothers Grimm of fashion,
enchanting and captivating the audience
with the most incredibly beautiful clothes,
only to make their stomachs lurch with the
underlying menace that shot through his
work. Because every show contained
outfits designed to thrill, shock and catch
the eye of picture editors many people
never realised that much of McQueens
work was, quite simply, heart-stoppingly
gorgeous: exquisite tailoring, beautifully
sculpted dresses and glorious print.
Alexander Mc Queen
Eiffel Tower
Alexander Mc Queen
Manish Arora
Manish Arora is an Indian fashion
designer based in New Delhi and is
the creative director of the
womenswear collection of the
French fashion house Paco
Rabanne.
Born and brought up in Bombay,
Manish was studying to graduate in
Commerce, when he decided to
change his career path, and applied
for National Institute of Fashion
Technology in New Delhi and
graduated in 1994, after winning the
Best Student Award
Manish Arora
He started his label Manish Arora in 1997.
Creating colorful and whimsical outfits since 1997, he is
better known as the "John Galliano of India".
He is known for a rich palette of psychedelic colours and
kitsch motifs, in garments that combine traditional Indian
crafts like embroidery, appliqu and beading with
Western silhouettes
Today his label is available in 84 stores worldwide, and
for the last five years he has collaborated with
sportswear giant Reebok to produce the successful 'Fish
Fry' line
Few of his favorite dresses & close ups of his bold makeup and hair
Stomping
tulip flappers
explode into
sparkly
rainbows of
pleats, puffed
sleeves and
plunging
necklines
The new Reebok Fish Fry collection is aimed at those with an eye for
futuristic fashion and taste in high end fashionable products
The Black is inspired by new age easy-to-wear boots with vibrant colours
and sequined toe fronts making the collection more glamorous. Jungle
Low Collection gives you a feel of the lost era. These are neon shoes with
classic leather work on either side. The fiery combination of black and
orange can ignite any party with passion and style.
Priced between Rs 6000 and Rs 60,000
MAC
Issey Miyake
John Galliano
Rie Kawalkubo
Missioni
Manish Arora
Elley Kisimoto
Michael Aram
Lycra-stretch,
Nylon-stockings
Nike-breathable sportswear
Kurti A kurta
adaptation - the
Indian concept of
work fashions.
10 marks
Write about various fashion definitions you have learnt or read about. Give
pictures to describe your text. Max. 10pages with 10 visuals. Submission
9/08/10
2.
3.
4.
5.
5. Describe any two NGOs which are closely associated with fashion.
6. What are the factors influencing fashion? Give atleast 5 factors with visuals.
7. What do you understand by the Fashion theories? Describe the three fashion
theories with 3 visual examples for each theory.
1)
2)
3)
4)
5)
6)
7)
8)
9)
CHAPTER 5
Fashion connotations and associations
Evolutionary and revolutionary changes in fashion.
Discuss with relevant examples Evolutionary changes in fashion- sari, blouse, mens suit, sportsshoes, eyewear frames, watches, cars, computers etc.
Revolutionary changes- Impact of World War I & II, Invention of
contraceptive Pills (developed the confidence and casual attitude,
introduction of minis and micro minis), 9/11 (attitudinal change in
the West i.e. people moved from materialistic to spiritual), mobile
phones etc
Discuss with examples relevant to the topic likePunks, Hippies, minimalists, Grunge, Gothic,
Heavy metal etc.
Suggestive
readings:
Icons of Fashion
The 20th century
Fashion People Palmer
Fashion - Concept
to consumer- Gini S.
Frings
Costume & FashionJ. Laver
Contemporary
Fashion- Martin
Richard
EVOLUTIONARY CHANGES IN
FASHION
Relevant examples : Sari & blouse
Mens Suit
Sports-shoes
Eyewear frames
Watches
Cars
Computers
Its believed until the 14th century, dhoti was worn by men, and women used
to wear a breast band and a veil or wrap that could be used to cover the
upper body or head. No one wore blouses.
EVOLUTION OF DRAPES IN
SARIS
Dhoti Family
The most ancient recorded Indian drape is the dhoti.
Dravidian Family
These saris were found in Tamil Nadu.
They were draped with one piece of cloth &
women of each region adapted the drape to
keep their legs covered
Gond-related Family
Nivi Family
The Nivi family of saris is most widespread.
Forms of the Nivi sari are worn all over India, as well
as in Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, and Pakistan, and Indian
communities living abroad.
REVOLUTIONARY CHANGES IN
SARI
Over the years women became liberal in thoughts & started wearing
saris in different ways, & wore blouses for comfort & to protect
themselves from climatic changes
Recent trends of modern sari owe much to Indira Gandhi who
immortalized the present pattern of wearing saris.
1933
1934
1935
1945
1950
1953
1961
1970
1973
1974
1989
1991
Suits of Today!
SUIT BRANDS
Football shoes
Running shoes
Soccer shoes
EVOLUTION IN EYEWEAR
FRAMES
For kids
For Dogs
Shooting &
riding glasses
Glow frames
EVOLUTION OF WATCHES !
Hour Glass
Pocket watches
REVOLUTIONARY CHANGE IN
WATCHES
Fossil
Omega
Citizen
Retro watch
Funeral watches
Digital watches
Futuristic watch
EVOLUTIONARY CHANGE IN
CARS
The first self-propelled car was built by Nicolas Cugnot in 1769 which
could attain speeds of upto 6 kms/hour.
In 1771 he again designed another steam-driven engine which ran so
fast that it rammed into a wall, recording the worlds first accident.
It was only in 1885 that the first real car rolled down on to the streets.
By definition an automobile or car is a wheeled vehicle that carries
its own motor and transports passengers. The automobile as we
know was not invented in a single day by a single inventor.
The history of the automobile reflects an evolution that took
place worldwide
Being one of the most significant inventions of the 1920s
the automobile drastically changed the lives of Americans
for the better.
EVOLUTIONARY CHANGES IN
COMPUTER
Evolved version
REVOLUTIONARY CHANGES IN
COMPUTER
Tsunamika dolls
84
85
STFC (SEWA Trade Facilitation Centre) is the marketing arm of SEWA in the
textiles and handicrafts sector. It provides design, production and marketing
facilities for apparel, accessories and soft furnishings, with embroideries
provided by more than 15,000 rural craftswomen.
STFC was established in 1998 with the mission of "empowering women through
traditional skills".
STFC is a non-profit organization, where the artisans (over 3,200) hold stake in
the ownership and consequently in the decision making processes.
The company has a modern garment manufacturing and packaging plant, a fully
equipped design studio, latest IT and reporting systems, all designed to support
product innovation, commitment to quality and business growth. STFC has
partnered with top design specialists and institutes like NIFT and NID to address
the need for continuous skill up gradation for its artisans.
STFC operates in India with two retail stores and also has large garment brands
as its B2B clients. Currently it exports to 6 countries, to both premium brand
retailers and specialized high fashion boutiques.
86
Organizations like SEWA helps these workers to Display their talent & skills
without any exploitation.
Sewa Trade Facilitation Centre (STFC) held hands with the war-affected
women of Afghanistan to rebuild their lives. An initiative undertaken by
STFC and Ministry of Commerce to train Afghan women has reached the
next level with Afghani women showcasing their creations at the India
International Trade fair (IITF) 2008, Pragati Maidan.
32 Afghani war victims who were given special training in garment making,
eco regeneration, food and fruits processing and packaging and accounting
by SEWA have participated in the trade fair this year with the soul objective
of taking the Afghani economy a step ahead. These women are the master
trainers and train other women at Baagay-e-Zanana with direct coordination and facilitation from SEWA. The women have now set up their
own microenterprises.
87
89
THEN..
90
91
92
93
94
She has been hand-made from fabrics left over from other creative works
in Upasana. The project team, who trained the ladies, now supplies them
with raw materials to continue producing the dolls
All dolls produced are bought from them in bulk and are gifted
unconditionally worldwide by Upasana.
It is always gifted never sold!
Entire project became a demonstration of gift economy, with donations
coming in from around the world sufficient to run the project on its own
income within a period of just 18 months.
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DAY 2
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
97
98
DAY 3
Thrilled at their own creativity.
99
DAY 4
100
Now the ladies try and make Tsunamika without a trainers guidance.
PRODUCT CATEGORIES -
GAMES
PEN CLIP
PENCIL CLIP
HAIR PIN
KEY CHAIN
Tsunamika has many variations to suit different uses.
She comes as a hair clip, or book mark, paper clip etc.
101
MORE PRODUCTS
JACKET ACCESSORY
WALL HANGING
RAKHI
PIN HOLDER
102
SCRIBBLING PAD
103
Anti - fur
The term "a fur" is often used to refer to a fur coat, wrap,
or shawl. Common animal sources for fur clothing and
fur trimmed accessories include fox, rabbit, mink,
beavers, ermine, otters, sable, seals, cats, dogs,
coyotes, chinchilla, and possum.
104
Cruelty!
Paolo trap
Half skinned
dogs
Being skinned
105
Anti-Fur Coalition
106
SHAHTOOSH
Chiru
It took very skilled artisans to weave the delicate hair (which measured
between 9 and 11 micrometres). These factors made Shahtoosh
shawls very precious. One shahtoosh shawl costs over $1000
The nomads would hunt the antelope for all that it provided them hide, meat, bones, horns and fur pelts - in short, everything that the
nomads needed to sustain them through their journey.
Multiple Chiru must be killed to gain the materials necessary for a
single Shahtoosh shawl.
shawls
107
When the British (of British India) traveled to Kashmir, they realised
the worth of Pashmina and Shahtoosh shawls and introduced them
to the world, which led to greater demand for these products.
This also led to the demise of the skill of the Kashmir weavers, who
were the only ones in the world who could handle the fibre.
not buying any shahtoosh products. This is against the law of the UAE and against
the international treaty - CITES;
discouraging others from buying or wearing shahtoosh by spreading the truth;
reporting any suspected sightings or sales of shahtoosh to the UAE CITES
Management Authority (Federal Environment Agency for Abu Dhabi and Ministry of
Agriculture and Fisheries for the northern emirates;.
buying and encouraging alternative products such as pashmina (combed from goats)
and yak wool that do not require animals to be slaughtered;
relinquishing any shahtoosh products in their possession (even samples are
forbidden); and
discouraging shahtoosh traders and buyers from indulging the demand.
109
111
THEIR PRODUCTS!
They strongly advertise through their range of apparel
& acessories range which carries a message or slogan.
It can be purchased in their outlets or through internet
at reasonable rates
Sweatshirts
112
ACCESSORIES RANGE
Aluminum bottle
magnetic
neckpiece
Water mug
wristbands
Shopping bags
stickers
Key chain
113
Cluster Initiative
Programm of NIFT
The Craft Cluster Initiative of the Institute is a carefully developed formula for
integrating the crafts sector of the country with the mainstream.
NIFT, with active support from the Ministry of Rural Development, Office of
Development Commissioner (Handicrafts & Handlooms) and National Centre for
Jute Development is developing and implementing a craft cluster initiative
towards the overall progress of craft, the cottage industry and vocational
activities.
114
Role of NIFT
Overall implementation along with specific tie-ups and networking with various
stakeholders.
Mapping opportunities and potential markets, branding and promotional strategies and
networking of potential commerce patronage.
Information sharing and creating grass-roots technical support systems for intelligence
development and market accessibility.
Integration of academic activities to provide real life learning opportunities and employ
students creative abilities towards various initiatives
115
In order to create their own identity, NIFT has brought all the products made
by the clusters under one umbrella, by launching brand I.M. a NIFT initiative,
which is a symbol of 'being Indian', 'self reliant', 'the feeling of swayam', self
confidence', and 'oneness'.
It symbolises that crafts can be identified only by the 'karma' and not by any
caste and creed.
In the process of exhibiting and retailing the products developed in these
clusters, NIFT in collaboration with DC (HC) has opened a retail outlet at Rajiv
Gandhi Hasta Kala Bhawan, Baba Kharak Singh Marg, New Delhi 110001.
The store houses everything from apparel to home and lifestyle products to
handcrafted accessories. A perfect blend of ethnic and modern, it makes an
interesting mix and a great place to shop.
116
CHAPTER 6
Fashion connotations and associations cont.
Fashion as a stimulus for global business and
vice versa.
Discuss with examples relevant to the topic like:
Fashion motivating consumers to indulge in
Fashion apparel
Lifestyle fashion- holidays, interiors, food etc.
Demographics (age specific population driving fashion
business), i.e.
younger Asian population, ageing
Western population.
Psychographics (changing consumer behaviour) i.e. health
consciousness, young attitude, cosmetic surgery,
longevity.
Suggestive
readings:
Icons of Fashion
The 20th century
Fashion People Palmer
Fashion - Concept
to consumer- Gini S.
Frings
Costume & FashionJ. Laver
Contemporary
Fashion- Martin
Richard
Chapter 6
FASHION MOTIVATING CUSTOMERS TO INDULGE
World apparel market is largely influenced by factors,
such as, globalization, ever changing consumer
preferences, levels of disposable incomes, dynamic
business practices, fashion trends, and technological
developments in fabrics.
Economic slow down Impacts retail
Many businesses depend on retail.
MODERN CONSUMER
Extremely Brand Conscious
Fashion emerging as Self Expression Strong
Demand for Unique Apparel Designs
Newness (change) is the order of the day
Demand for comfort wear and casual wear is rising across the world.
Formal apparel for men has found its way into the market, in the
form of improved suits, shirts and ties.
Men's and boy's apparel segment is influenced by changing
consumer attitudes and evolving lifestyles, as seen in the rising
demand for specific wear for business, casual and weekend
activities.
Development of innovative sportswear, incorporating novel designs
and fabrics, is also finding favour among male purchasers.
Chapter 6
FASHION AS A STIMULUS FOR GLOBAL BUSINESS & VICE-VERSA
Men's Fashion
Holidays
Interiors
Food
Holidays
Luxury Holidays have given
way to Budget Holidays
Low cost Airlines
Reduce no. of holidays in a
year
Travel Light
Activities
Home stays instead of Hotels
Time Share Concept
Holidays
Interior Homes
Key words Nature & Environment
World Starts going green
Use of natural materials in
housing construction
Eco-houses & furniture
Kitchen Gardens back in fashion
Low maintenance in Soft furnishing
Energy efficient gadgets being used in
homes
Home
Interiors
Trends
are
generally
a fall out
from
Apparel
Trends
Interiors
Food
Calorie Count on Menu Cards
Convenience foods
Exotic Foods & Cuisines
Learning to make food on TV
shows & Menus Sites
Happy Meals by McDonald
DEMOGRAPHICS
GLOBAL BUYING AS DICTATED BY AGE
Age Specific
Younger Asian population and older western population
Young Children Influenced by Parents
Teenagers Easy influenced -Cinema, pop, peer group
pressure
More Disposable income in the age-group of 20 -25 yrs
Indulgent customers
25-35 yrs Mature Choices
35 onwards Wise decision takers
55 onwards decline in spending patterns
PSYCHOGRAPHICS
CHANGING CONSUMER BEHAVIOR
Health Consciousness
Young Attitude
Cosmetic Surgery
Longevity
HEALTH CONSCIOUSNESS
Decline of Frozen foods
Fast Food & Junk Food out
Organic foods & Home Gardens
Reduced Calorie Meals Growing Fast
Regular Exercise
Yoga & Spirituality back in Fashion
Health Consciousness
YOUNG ATTITUDE
LONGEVITY
COSMETIC SURGERY
Growing old is Inevitable Looking good
is negotiable
People today want to look good outside &
as well as feel good inside
KINDS OF COSMETIC
SURGERIES
Body Reshaping Procedures
Facial Corrective procedures
Hair Restoration
Botox Anti- ageing
Fat Reduction
Permanent Make-up
Chapter 7
Fashion sub cultures.
Punks, Hippies, minimalists, Grunge, Gothic, Heavy metal etc.
Aerosmith Band
The Hippie-style
Michael Jackson
The Punks
The Punks
The Hippies
The Hippies
There are some elements of fashion that are synonymous with hippie
fashion. Chief among these being, bell bottoms, flowers, peace signs and
the vivid tie dye patterns. Let us take a look at the wardrobe essentials from
the hippie period and trace the hippie fashion history.
Flower Power
Flowers dominated most hippie possessions including cars and vans. A
flower in one's hair was a great way of accessorizing oneself. If not as a hair
accessory, then flowers made their presence felt as designs on clothes.
These were symbols of vividness, peace and freedom. The term flower
power was coined by Allen Ginsberg, the famous Beat poet, as a way of
transforming war protests into peace symbols. 1960's hippies fashion
dictated that symbolism was adapted as a part of clothing. Most hippies also
went around distributing flowers to the general public earning the nickname
flower children.
Bell Bottoms
Bell bottom blues, you made me cry.
I don't want to lose this feeling.
And if I could choose a place to die
It would be in your arms. - Derek and the Dominoes
Songs were written about this fashion trend which speaks volumes about the
rage they were. The song writer of Bell Bottom Blues, Eric Clapton wrote the
song for Pattie Boyd after she requested him to buy a pair of trousers from
the US. Bell-bottoms were synonymous with the hippie fashion movement
with men and women both sporting these trousers teaming them with other
wardrobe essentials of the period like tie-dye t-shirts, beads, flowers, fringe
jackets etc. These trousers when worn had to be hip hugging and teamed
with a leather belt for sure. Men often substituted bell-bottoms with jeans but
Skirts
For most women 60s fashion clothing meant a revival of skirts in a manner
never seen before. Skirts of any length were very popular. Hemlines
became shorter with mini skirts and even micro mini skirts becoming
exceedingly commonplace. At the other end of the spectrum were gypsy
style skirts that flirted with ankle length hemlines. Indian prints like batik and
paisley were much sought after for gypsy skirts. Many people actually
preferred dyeing and making their clothes themselves to give it a more
unique appearance.
Tie-Dye Clothes
Though the tie-dyeing art was introduced in the United States in the early
20th century, it became wildly popular only in the 1960's when the hippies
adopted it as an integral part of hippie fashion. 1960s fashion was largely
defined by the use of tie-dye patterns on clothing. One of the most used
symbols was the peace symbol in vibrant colors. The popularity of tie-dye
could also be credited to the travels that most hippies indulged in
going as far as India and therefore, being inspired by Asian motifs and
textiles for clothing. There was a favorable tilt towards designing and making
your own clothes in a bid to be individualistic and as a sign of defiance of the
corporate culture.
Other popular items of 1960's hippie fashion included chain belts, caftans,
peasant blouses, scarves, etc. Peace symbols were very popular in the
form of accessories. Most hippies, regardless of gender, were
predisposed to wearing their hair long and it generally looked unkempt.
African Americans made the Afro style of hair very popular. Many people
abandoned footwear preferring to walk bare-feet. If footwear was used, then
they generally were leather sandals or flip-flops. Even in the early 70's,
hippie fashion continued having a huge influence but this started slowly
dying down. Today, modern hippie fashion has seen a revival with many
people using different staples of hippie fashion in a more modern way. It is
not surprising. Someone once very famously said, "Hippies are like jeans.
The Hippies
Grunge
Grunge is a subgenre of alternative rock that emerged during the mid1980s in the American state of Washington, particularly in the Seattle area.
Inspired by hardcore punk, heavy metal and indie rock, grunge is generally
characterized by heavily distorted electric guitars, contrasting song dynamics,
and apathetic or angst-filled lyrics. The grunge aesthetic is stripped-down
compared to other forms of rock music, and many grunge musicians were
noted for their un-kept appearances and rejection of theatrics.
Grunge concerts were known for being straightforward, high-energy
performances. Grunge bands rejected the complex and high budget
presentations of many musical genres, including the use of complex light
arrays, pyrotechnics, and other visual effects unrelated to playing the music.
Stage acting was generally avoided. Instead the bands presented themselves
as no different from minor local bands.
Clothing commonly worn by grunge musicians in Washington consisted
of thrift store items and the typical outdoor clothing (most notably flannel
shirts) of the region, as well as a general unkempt appearance. The style
did not evolve out of a conscious attempt to create an appealing fashion;
music journalist Charles R. Cross said, "Kurt Cobain was just too lazy to
shampoo," and Sub Pop's Jonathan Poneman said, "This [clothing] is
cheap, it's durable, and it's kind of timeless. It also runs against the grain
of the whole flashy aesthetic that existed in the 80's."
Gothic
Heavy metal
Heavy metal
CHAPTER 7
Factors influencing fashion
Social, cultural, economical, political,
technological, sports, music etc.
SOCIAL
The post-war baby-boom caused by increase births,
youth oriented markets, career, fashion styles changed
with priorities.
The babybusters also called as generation X, 1965 to
1979, fashion conscious and willing to spend,
contemporary, career oriented.
Echo boom generation Y, racially diverse group, techosavvy.
Ethnic diversity people from different cultural
backgrounds.
The working woman change in demands of styles,
catalogue buying pattern, minimalistic
Family oriented, work-from-home concepts,
Concern for environment
People are looking for their perception of quality at a
reasonable price
Value for time, home-delivery.
Inflation where people earn more but due to rise in cost of living, the
purchasing power decreases. (1980s Power suit reflected obsession
with money and achievement)
Recession decrease in spending, companies cut back orders, colors
used are more of a dull tone, people will buy things that last longer,
consumers quest for value.
latest trends and create awarnes about new trends and styles.
Information Technology like the internet which is one of the
most influential concepts that direct fashion and trends.
Movies Indian as well as international movies and actors
showcase many styles which are then copied by manufacturers
and made popular.
Sports e.g. IPL matches, World Cup Football, etc.
Music famous rock artists who make certain styles famous.
CHAPTER 7
Fashion theories
Fashion cycle
Theories of fashion adoption
Fashion leaders and followers.
Suggestive readings:
Fashion- Concept to Consumer- Gini S Frings
Inside Fashion Design- Sharon Lee Tate
Fashion theories
Theories of fashion adoption:
Three variations of the fashion adoption process: traditional
Based on the process of copying and adapting trendsetting fashion from Paris, Milan and New
York designer, as couture designs are very expensive and affordable by just few.
New fashions are shown in different ways which is easy to copy and create styles for mass
market.
For mass production and consumers manufacturers produce less-expensive versions of the
original couture (high-fashion)
These designs are copied again and again at lower prices till they become affordable and
acceptable to all consumers
The consumer then gets tired of the look and it fades away.
Fashion theories
Theories of fashion adoption
Reverse Adoption Process
-Also known as trickle-up or bottom-up theory.
-People on the streets are observed and new styles are
noted.
-The grunge look , dance-wear, active-wear which began as
functional need soon became designer wear.
-Vintage fashions
-Styles worn by consumers or co-ordinates invented by
consumers are taken as inspirations for high-fashions.
Fashion theories
Theories of fashion adoption
Mass Dissemination
-Also known as trickle-across theory
-Modern communications bring fashions into our homes
directly.
-Mass dissemination (distribution / spreading) happens
10 marks
This assignment is to be done individually, using
good quality visuals, well-written description and A4
size spiral bound document.
Submission on 20/09/10
Learning Diary with 7 topics