Fabrictrainingforretailstaff Extendedversion 131227042854 Phpapp01

PRODUCT TRAINING
Fabric Basics
EXTENDED VERSION
Outline
Fibers
Fiber Classification
Properties
Characteristics
Identification Methods
Yarns
Spinning processes
Identification of different types of yarn structure
Knits
Identification of various types of common knit fabrics
Wovens
Identification of various types of common woven fabrics
Care Labelling System
International labelling systems and symbols

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar
FIBRES
Fibres are the base unit of all textile materials

and products.
They are slender thread-like structures that
can be spun into yarns and thread, and
woven, knitted or felted into materials.
Fibre Classifications
There are two types of fibres used in making

textile products those that come from the
natural environment and those that are
manufactured called man-made fibres.
Natural Fibres
Natural fibres come from plants, animals and

minerals. They usually have short fibres, called
staple fibres. The exception to this rule is silk, a
natural fibre whose continuous filaments are up
to one kilometre in length!
Sources of natural fibres
Cotton from the cotton plant
Linen from the flax plant
Wool from sheep
Silk from silkworms
Natural Plant Fibres
Cotton King of
fibres
Linen
Ramie
Jute
Hemp
Pineapple
Coir
Banana
Kapok
Bamboo
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Cotton
Cottonis a soft, fluffy staplefibrethat grows in aboll, or

protective capsule, around the seeds of cotton plants of the
genusGossypium.
The plant is ashrubnative to tropical and subtropical regions
around the world, including the Americas, Africa, and India.
The greatest diversity of wild cotton species is found in
Mexico, followed by Australia and Africa. Cotton was
independently domesticated in the Old and New Worlds. The
, which
English name derives from the Arabic(al) qutn
began to be used circa 1400 CE. The Spanish word,
"algodn", is likewise derived from the Arabic.
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Cotton
The fibre is most often spun intoyarnor thread and used to

make a soft, breathabletextile. The use of cotton for fabric is
known to date to prehistoric times; fragments of cotton fabric
dated from 5000 BCE have been excavated in Mexico and the
Indus Valley Civilization (modern day Pakistan).
Although
cultivated since antiquity, it was the invention of thecotton
ginthat so lowered the cost of production that led to its
widespread use, and it is the most widely usednatural fibrecloth
in clothing today.
Current estimates for world production are about 25
milliontonnesannually, accounting for 2.5% of the world's arable
land. China is the world's largest producer of cotton, but most of
this is used domestically. The United States has been the largest
exporter for many years.
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Varieties of cotton
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Sea Island Cotton

Egyptian Cotton
Pima Cotton
American Upland Long Staple
American Upland Short Staple
Asia Short Staple
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Properties of Cotton
It
It
It
It
It
It
It
It
It
It
It
It
is soft
breathes
absorbs moisture
is comfortable
is strong and durable
is versatile
performs well
has good colour retention if dyed at the fibre stage
is easy to print on
wrinkles easily and requires heavy ironing
is easy to care for, easy to wash
is a natural resource that is fully renewable
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Linen
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Properties of Linen
It is the strongest of the vegetable fibers.

Known for the coolness and freshness in hot weather.
It is smooth and gets softer the more it is washed.
It has a high natural luster.
It is strong and durable and dries quickly
It has poor elasticity
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Linenis one of the oldest textiles sorts in the world which is produced from linen
fiber. Even 5000 years B.C. linen garments were worn in Egypt. Linen is much more
stronger and glossy than cotton. It has anti-allergic properties, good to absorb water,
permeable for air and cool fabric. The Lithuanian people were growing linen many
years ago. The national Lithuanian songs and tales are mentioning about linen: linen
growing, snatching and spinning. The linen is named like sainted plant, sward of sun
and corn of women.
Linenfibre is strong and not elastic, so linen fabrics crumple very easy. After each
washing the fabric becomes softer and less wrinkly.
It is better to iron linen fabric with hot iron from the backside.
The linen fabric does not turn yellowish, it becomes whiter and gentler after time.
Linenfibre goes damp and dry very soon, that is why the fabric warms during cold
night and cools the body during hot midday.
Linenfabric is resistant to static electric load. Also linen fibre is used for protective
garments of the spacemen and for protection of the spaceships outside.
Linenfabric makes the best microclimate for the skin, i.e. it is permeable to air,
absorbs dampness and sweat very quickly.
Linenfabrics are three times stronger than cotton fabrics.
Linenfabrics are five times more resistant to rubbing than cotton fabrics.
Linenfabrics absorb dampness and sweat better than cotton fabrics.
Linenfabric is ecological. It is the product which does not leave any waste and does
not make any harm to nature and ecology.
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Natural Protein Fibers
Wool
Silk
Mohair
Cashmere
Camel
Alpaca
Llama
Vicuna
Musk Ox - Qiviut
Angora
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Wool
Woolis
thetextilefibreobtained
fromsheepand
certain
other
animals,
includingcashmerefromgoats,mohairfrom
goats,qiviutfrommuskoxen,
angorafromrabbits, and other types of wool
fromcamelids.
Wool has several qualities that distinguish it
from hair or fur: it iscrimped, it iselastic, and
it grows instaples(clusters).
Sheared or pulled from the skin of sheep.

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Types of Wool
Camel HairAs you would expect, it's made from a camel. The
undercoat of a camel is extremely soft and fine, making it a good
choice for clothing. Camel hair provides the best insulation of all
the wools so it's usually used for coats. However, it's relatively
weak and can become worn easily.
Qiviut This taupe-grey coloured fibre comes from the Alaskan
domesticated musk ox and is as soft as cashmere. While it
weighs the same as sheep's wool, it's eight times warmer. You'll
see it used in sweaters, scarves, gloves, and hats.
Vicuna The most expensive of all specialty wools, vicuna sells
for anywhere from $1,300 to $3,000 per yard. However, if you're
lucky enough to afford it, you'll experience the softest and finest
of fabrics. As the Peruvian government has strict guidelines on
harvesting and exporting vicuna, it's also one of the rarest.
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Types of Wool
MerinoMerino sheep, known for having softer coats than others, are
the source of this soft and popular wool. It draws or "wicks" moisture
away from the skin on one end of the fiber and repels outside moisture
on the other.
AlpacaSupplied by thealpaca, this fine silky fabric is warmer than
sheep wool. Look for it in sweaters, coats, gloves, scarves and
sometimes in upholstery.
MohairThis lustrous fibre is made from the hair of the Angora goat.
Like merino, mohair fibres are moisture-wicking and good insulators,
but they have more sheen which makes fabric made from them more
attractive. It's also wears better than sheep's wool.
Llama Thellama produces a fibre which is naturally glistening.
Although they're related to alpacas, llamas have fibres that are coarser
and weaker. But they do give good warmth without being too heavy.
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Types of Wool
AngoraMade from the hair of the Angora rabbit, this

heat-retaining fibre is ideal for thermal clothing. As it's
lightweight as well as soft, it's very comfortable to wear.
Cashmere.Like mohair, cashmere comes from the hair
of a goat, the Kashmir goat. Soft to the touch so it's a
pleasure to wear, it's also are extremely adept at
keeping you warm. Cashmere is the most common type
of fine wool used in clothing
Cashgora.This hybrid wool comes from a crossbreed
of a Cashmere buck and an Angora doe. You'll find it
finer than mohair but less so than cashmere.
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Properties of Wool
Warm and comfortable to wear

Wrinkle resistance
Good resiliency when dry
Good drape and elasticity
Damaged by chlorine bleach
May shrink unless treated
Looses strength when wet
Shows pilling effect
Poor lustre and expensive
Felting of wool
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Silk
Silkis a naturalproteinfibre, some forms of which can bewovenintotextiles.

The protein fibre of silk is composed offibroinand produced by certain insect
larvae to form cocoons. The best-known type of silk is obtained from
thecocoonsof thelarvaeof themulberrysilkwormBombyx mori reared in
captivity (sericulture). The shimmering appearance of silk is due to the
triangularprism-like structure of the silk fibre, which allows silk cloth to refract
incoming light at differentangles, thus producing different colours.
Silks are produced by several other insects, but generally only the silk of moth
caterpillars has been used for textile manufacturing. There has been some
research into other silks, which differ at the molecular level. Many silks are
mainly produced by thelarvaeof insects undergoingcomplete metamorphosis,
but some adult insects such aswebspinnersproduce silk, and some insects
such asraspy cricketsproduce silk throughout their lives. Silk production also
occurs
inHymenoptera(bees,wasps,
andants),silverfish,mayflies,thrips,leafhoppers,beetles,lacewings,fleas,flies
and midges. Other types ofarthropodproduce silk, most notably
variousarachnidssuch asspiders(seespider silk).
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Silk is called Queen of Fibers
Silk is a natural protein secreted by the larvae of moths
Twin filaments of protein fibroin are secreted and bound
together in a single strand with a protein gum knows as
sericin.
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Types of Silk
Raw silk - Silk in its natural form is covered with a gum called Sericin. Raw silk
still has all the gum which is dull & stiff and can be in many colours. Various
processes can be used to remove the sericin to reveal the lustrous fibre
beneath.
Wild Silk - This is usually not white and is from the tannins from eating plants
other than the mulberry tree. It can be courser than cultivated silk, making it
better for high wear items. It is cheaper. Wild silk cocoons are usually gathered
after the moth has emerged, therefore the staples or fibres will have been cut,
making it only suitable for spinning. It is also known as Tussah Silk
Cultivated Silk - This has become a highly technical and controlled industry
where silk worms are raised and fed mainly on mulberry leaves to produce a
near white coloured silk. Often the chrysalis or grub is destroyed before it has a
chance to eat its way out of the cocoon, so that the fibre can be reeled off in
one long fibre. See also Reeled Silk & Thrown Silk
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Types of Silk
Thrown Silk - Made from the long filaments of silk up to 1500 mts
long, and is nearly always made from cultivated silk. It is more
expensive due to the extra work required in reeling off the single
filaments. It requires very little twist so retains more lustrousness,
and can be woven into fabric that are almost transparent. Also
called Reeled silk. Some types of thrown silk fabrics include: voile,
georgette, organza and crepe.
Dupion Silk - This is silk which retains the lumps where two threads
join. It is a characteristic which is admired and should not be
considered a flaw.
Noil Silk - Made from very short staple and contains little tangle
balls of fibre
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Types of Silk
Reeled Silk - See also Thrown Silk and Cultivated Silk

Spun Silk - Shorter staples can be carded and woven,
much the same way as cotton or wool. Includes
varieties such as Shantung, Mutka and Noil.
Cut Silk - See Spun Silk
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Types of Silk
Mulberry This type of silk is obtained from the silk worm Bombyx mori L.
that primarily survives on the leaves of the mulberry plant. These silk worms
are cultivated and reared indoors. Besides this variety, the others are usually
called non-mulberry silks. India is one of the primary producers of mulberry
silk.
Tasar Pronounced Tussah, this is copper brownish in colour and is slightly
coarse in texture. Tasar is mainly used for the upholstery and interior dcor.
Though it does not have the sheen of mulberry silk there is a unique appeal
about this variety. It is obtained from the silkworm Antheraea mylitta which
mainly survive on the food plants Asan and Arjun. Unlike the mulberry
variety, these worms are reared outdoors in the open.
Oak Tasar This is a finer variety of the previous one and is obtained from
the silk worms Antheraea proyeli J. and Antheraea pernyi. China is the major
producer of this silk type.
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Types of Silk
Eri Eri is a unique variety and is spun from open

ended cocoons. The silk worm species Philosamia
ricini that thrives on castor leaves generate this
variety. It is also primarily produced in India and used
for the manufacture of wraps (called chaddars).
Muga This has a lovely golden yellow colour and
generated from the semi-domesticated multivoltine
silkworm, Antheraea assamensis. They thrive on the
leaves of aromatic plants Som and Saolu and found
in Assam, India.
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Silk fabric Types
Charmeuse This silk type is one of the most widely

recognized fabrics that are available in the market today. It is
typically characterized by its lustrous shine and sumptuous
feel and is primarily used for the manufacture of skirts,
dresses, eveningwear, nightgowns, lingerie, and gently
shaped tops
Crepe de Chine or CDC This kind of silk has a matte
surface and a pebbled texture; besides it is also extremely
durable and wrinkle resistant. Due to its light weight, it is a
hot favorite among the designers and is primarily used for
fashionable and sophisticated skirts, dresses, suits and
evening wear.
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Charmeuse
CDC
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Silk fabric Types
Filament silk or reeled silk - Made of individual strands that vary in length, this
versatile knit fabric maximizes silks superb ability to insulate your body and
wick away moisture. It is characterized by its light in weight yet highly durable.
Its elastic and luxurious texture makes it ideal for the chic and opulent lingeries
slips, and camisoles. The natural elastic quality of this fabric ensures all day
comfort and is perfect for beneath casual & business clothes.
Georgette Georgette reminds one of crepe de Chine. It is soft and lustrous
that drapes very easily and falls into soft ripples. It is characterized by a
grainy texture and is used for the manufacture of dresses, skirts, blouses, tops
and evening wear.
Habutai Habutai, meaning soft and downy in Japanese was first used for
the making of Kimonos. It is soft, light, and lustrous with a very graceful drape
and smooth surface and is utilized for making blazers, skirts, lingerie, suits,
quilts, jacket linings, dresses and evening wear.
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Georgette
Habutai
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Properties of Silk
Most lustrous and luxurious.

Lightweight and water absorbent.
Good dye ability with rich colours.
Stronger and moderately wrinkle resistant.
Excellent drape and luxurious hand
Expensive.
Damaged by chemical exposure.
Looses strength when wet.
Silk treated with formaldehyde shows high strength,
higher resistance and reduced solubility to chemicals.
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Man-made fibres
Man-made fibres are classified into three

classes, those made from natural polymers,
those made from synthetic polymers and
those made from inorganic materials.
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Fibres from Natural

Polymers
The most common natural polymer fibre is

viscose, which is made from the polymer
cellulose obtained mostly from farmed trees.
Other cellulose-based fibres are Lyocell,
Modal, Acetate and Triacetate.Less common
natural polymer fibres are made from rubber,
alginic acid and regenerated protein.
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Fibres from Synthetic

Polymers
There are very many synthetic fibres i.e.

organic fibres based on petrochemicals. The
most common are polyester, polyamide (often
called
nylon),
acrylic
and
modacrylic,
polypropylene, the segmented polyurethanes
which are elastic fibres known as elastanes (or
spandex in the USA), and speciality hightenacityfibres such as the high performance
aramids and UHMwPE (Ultra High Molecular
weight PolyEthylene).
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Fibres from Inorganic

Materials
The inorganic man-made fibres are fibres

made from materials such as glass, metal,
carbon or ceramic. These fibres are very often
used to reinforce plastics to form composites.
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Viscose
There are several fibres made from the naturally occurring

polymer cellulose, which is present in all plants. Mostly
cellulose from wood is used to produce the fibres but
sometimes cellulose from short cotton fibres, called linters, is
the source. By far the most common cellulosic fibre is
viscose fibre.
Viscose is definedby BISFA as being "a cellulose fibre

obtained by the viscose process". It is known as rayon
fibrein the USA. Although several cellulosic fibres had been
made experimentally during the 19th century, it was not
until 1905 that what has become the most popular cellulosic
fibre, viscose, was produced.
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Properties
Acetate:
Acetate is soft and silky and drapes well
It dyes well but does not absorb moisture
easily which means it dries quickly.
Acetate is resistant to mildew and shrinkage
and is often used to make linings because it
absorbs moisture from the body.
Acetate is also used to make home furnishings
such as drapes and bedspreads.
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Properties
Acrylic
Is soft and luxurious and also drapes well.
It is not a heavy fabric but it gives warmth.
It was originally used to make outdoor goods but
now is common in clothing and carpet although
pure acrylic can result in pilling.
It can be dyed to bright colours.
Acrylic is made from a petrochemical called
acrylontrile.
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Properties
Latex
Derives from the latex fibre which comes from
the milky or colourless sap of certain plants.
It can be mixed with other fibres to make
materials such as spandex.
It is resistant to light and heat and is
waterproof.
Examples of latex products include gloves,
soles and mattress pads.
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Properties
Nylon
Is a polymide which is made from petroleum.
It is durable and lightweight.
Nylon is quick drying and cleans easily because dirt
does not cling.
It can be static and does not absorb moisture so, if
used it clothing, it can be clammy in the heat.
Examples of nylon products include luggage,
carpeting materials and hosiery because of its elastic
recovery ability.
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Properties
Polyester
Is soft and strong, resistant to shrinkage and does
not stretch.
It is a polymer which is produced from coal, water,
air and petroleum products.
It can blend with natural fibres such as cotton or
wool or with artificial ones, to increase the fabric
more durable and easier to wash.
It can be used in clothing, filling for upholstery, floor
coverings and insulation.
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Properties
Rayon
Is created by the regeneration of natural materials.
It is made from wood pulp and its properties are similar to
those of linen or cotton.
There are various types of rayon including regular, high
tenacity, high wet modulus and microfibers.
High tenacity rayon is strong and used mainly in industry.
Regular rayon is often used in clothing.
High wet modulus has high wet strength and microfibers
are fine and silky.
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Properties
Spandex
It can stretch up to 600 times and bounce back.
Because of its elasticity, spandex is often used in
apparel.
It blends well with other fabrics, especially rayon,
wool or silk.
It is light and very comfortable to wear. Spandex is
easy to dye and absorbs moisture and body oils.
It is often used in hosiery and lingerie.
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YARNS
Yarnis
a
long
continuous
length
of
interlockedfibres, suitable for use in the
production
oftextiles,sewing,crocheting,knitting,weavi
ng,embroidery, andrope-making.Threadis a
type of yarn intended for sewing by hand
ormachine. Modern manufactured sewing
threads may be finished withwaxor other
lubricants to withstand the stresses involved
in sewing.Embroidery threadsare yarns
specifically designed
for hand ormachine
embroidery.
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Carding
Cardingis a mechanical process that

disentangles, cleans and intermixes fibres to
produce a continuous web or sliver suitable for
subsequent processing. This is achieved by
passing the fibres between differentially
moving surfaces covered with card clothing. It
breaks up locks and unorganised clumps of
fibre and then aligns the individual fibres to be
parallel with each other.
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Carding Machine
For Wool
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Carding Machine
For Cotton
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Combing
Combingis
a
method
for
preparingcardedfibreforspinning. It separates
out the short fibres by means of a rotating ring of
steel pins. The fibres in the 'top' it produces, have
been straightened and lie parallel to each other.
The combs used have long metal teeth, and only
barely resemble thecombused onhair. However,
they are used in a similar fashion with one comb
holding the fibre while the other is moved through,
slowly transferring the fibre to the moving comb.
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Combing
Combing the fibres removes the short fibres and

arranges the fibre in a flat bundle, with all the fibres
going the same direction. This preparation is commonly
used to spin aworstedyarn.Woollen yarns cannot be
spun from fibre prepared with combs, instead the fibre
must becarded. Cotton is combed when it is to be used
for quality fabric with high thread counts.
In general, combing is done with fibres that are longer,
andcardingwith
fibres
of
a
shorter
length.Worstedyarns pass first through a gilling
machine instead of a carder, which starts the combing
process, and then through a comber.
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Spinning
Spinningis a majorindustry. It is part of the textile

manufacturing process where three types offibreare
converted intoyarn, thenfabrics, which undergo finishing
processes such as bleaching to becometextiles. The
textiles are then fabricated intoclotheor other products.
There are three industrial processes available to spin yarn,
and a handicraft community who use hand spinning
techniques. Spinning is the twisting together of drawn out
strands of fibres to form yarn, though it is colloquially used
to describe the process of drawing out, inserting the twist,
and winding onto bobbins.
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ROVING
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Production of Cotton &

Polyester
http://
www.youtube.com/watch?v=kH_b3Heo48I
http://
www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJGbg6zIugs
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PLYING
In thetextile arts,plyingis a process used to create

a strong, balancedyarn. It is done by taking two or
more strands of yarn that each have a twist to them
and putting them together. The strands are twisted
together, in the direction opposite that in which they
werespun. When just the right amount of twist is
added, this creates a balanced yarn, which is a yarn
with no tendency to twist upon itself. Almost all
store bought yarns are balanced, plied yarns.
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WEAVING
Weavingis a method of fabric production in which two distinct sets

ofyarns or threadsare interlaced at right angles to form
afabricorcloth. The other methods areknitting, lace making,felting,
andbraidingorplaiting.
The
longitudinal
threads
are
called
thewarpand the lateral threads are theweftor filling. (Weftorwoofis
an oldEnglishword meaning "that which is woven".) The method in
which these threads are inter woven affects the characteristics of the
cloth.
Cloth is usually woven on aloom, a device that holds the warp threads
in place while filling threads are woven through them. A fabric band
which meets this definition of cloth (warp threads with a weft thread
winding between) can also be made using other methods,
includingtablet weaving, back-strap, or other techniques without looms.
The way the warp and filling threads interlace with each other is called
the weave.
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Types of weaves
I.
Plain weave
a. Basket/ Matt weave
b. Ribbed ( Warp & Wet )
II. Twill weave

III. Satin and Sateen weave
IV. Variation of Basic weave.
a.
b.
c.
d.
e.
f.
g.
h.
i.
Crepe
Pile (Cut/Uncut)
Double Cloth
Gauze (Leno)
Swivel
Lappet
Dobby
Jacquard
Tri-axial.
WEFT
WARP
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Plain
The plain weave repeats on 2 Ends 2 Picks.

The plain fabric comprises a high percentage
of the total production of woven fabrics and it
can be produced on a loom with two harness.
IT has the highest number of interlacing as
compared with other weaves and therefore it
produces the firmest fabric.
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PLAIN WEAVE
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Twill
Twill weave, the second basic weave is

characterized by diagonal lines running at
angles varying between 15 and 75 degrees. A
Twill Weave is denoted by using numbers
above and below a line ( such as 2/1 Twill
which may be interpreted as two up one
down). There are sever types of basic twill
weaves, such as
(a).1/2 Twill (b).2/1 Twill (c).2/2 Twill. (d).2/3
Twill, (e).3/2 (f) 3/3 Twill, (g).4/4 Twill Etc.
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Satin
Four or more shafts with warp floats or weft

floats in interrupted diagonal. It is very
lustrous, excellent drawable. It shows floated
fashion. Its has some subcategories as, Satin,
Slipper satin, Crepeback satin etc.
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Dobby
Dobby, a decorative weave results in small

designs or geometric figures all over the
woven fabric. It is done through dobby
machines. This weave uses various yarns from
very fine to coarse and fluffy yarns to produce
a variety of fabrics. The standard dobby
weave fabrics are flat and comparatively fine.
Some examples are moss crepe,matelasse
etc. Heavy dobby fabrics are used forhome
furnishingsand
for
heavyapparel.
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Oxford
Oxford weave fabrics are made with modified

plain weave or basket weave and are
generally used for apparels, particularly cotton
shirting materials. The fabric is fine, soft and
lightweight.
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Jacquard
Jacquard weaves, produced on a special

loom, are characterized by complex woven-in
designs, often with large design repeats or
tapestry effects. Fabrics made by this method
include brocade, damask, and brocatelle.
Dobby weaves, requiring a special loom
attachment, have small, geometric, textured,
frequently repeated woven-in designs, as seen
in birds-eye piqu.
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Herringbone
Herringbonedescribes
a
distinctive
Vshapedweavingpattern
usually
found
intwillfabric. It is distinguished from a plain
chevron by the break at reversal, which makes
it resemble a broken zigzag. The pattern is
called herringbone because it resembles
theskeletonof aherringfish. Herringbonepatterned fabric is usuallywool, and is one of
the
most
popular
cloths
used
forsuitsandouterwear.Tweed clothis often
woven with a herringbone
pattern.
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Fil-a-Fil
End-on-end (also known by its French name, Fil-a-Fil) is

essentially a plain weave where one colour yarn is
interwoven with another colour yarn. Although one of
the two colours is usually White, a great variety of endon-ends have been produced in recent years. This type
of weave yields a familiar two-tone appearance. For
end-on-end cloths that do not incorporate a white yarn
then one of the yarn colours tends to be a darker
shade of the same colour. For example Sky Blue might
be used for the 'weft' yarn and Mid Blue for the 'warp'
yarn.
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Velvet
Velvetis a type of woven tuftedfabricin

which the cutthreadsare evenly distributed,
with a short densepile, giving it a distinctive
feel.
The word 'velvety' is used as an adjective to
mean "smooth like velvet." Velvet can be
either synthetic or natural.
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Piqu
Piqu, ormarcella, refers to aweavingstyle,

normally
used
withcottonyarn,
which
is
characterized by raised parallel cords or fine ribbing.
Pique fabrics are a type ofdobbyconstruction. Piques
may be constructed in various patterns such as cord,
waffle, honeycomb and birds-eye piques. These
fabrics require the addition of extra yarns, called
stuffer yarns. These stuffer yarns are incorporated
into the back of the fabric to give texture and added
depth to the fabric design. Some piques may be
made using the Jacquard attachment on the loom.
107
108
KNITS
Knitted fabricsis the third major class of

fabric, afterwovenandnonwovenfabrics.
Knitted fabrics are divided into two basic
types:warp-knitfabrics
such
astricotandweft-knit fabrics such as a handknit sweater. Weft-knit items have the
drawback that theyrunwhen cut. Warp-knit
fabrics are often used inlingerie.
109
Knits & Wovens: What's the

Difference?
How to identify your fabric

When you can't tell if a fabric is a knit or woven, put it through these tests:
Look for loops or grain
In knit fabric (left), one continuous yarn is looped repeatedly to create what looks like tiny
rows of braids. In woven fabric (right), multiple yarns cross each other at right angles to
form the grain, like a basket.
110

Difference?
Apply the stretch test

When knit fabric is stretched along its width, it will stretch significantly. Along its
length, it will stretch slightly. If a knit fabric is stretched excessively, a run may
form. Most woven fabrics can't stretch along the lengthwise grain (the length of
the fabric), and there is minimal give along the crosswise grain (the width of the
fabric).
111

Difference?
Check the wrinkle resistance

When you ball up a knit in your hand, it will crush easily. When
you release it, the fabric will spring back into shape with few, if
any, wrinkles. When you wad up a woven fabric, it usually
wrinkles easily.
Inspect the edges
A knit is either sold as a tube or flat. On flat knits, factories apply
round blobs of starch or glue along the lengthwise edges to
prevent them from curling. Along the width, or cut edge, the
fabric doesn't fray. The lengthwise edges of a woven fabric,
called the selvages, are strong and don't move. The cut edge
across the width of the fabric frays.
112
What is the difference between a

pique polo, a Jersey Knit Polo and a
golf polo shirt?
Thepiqueis a type of cotton weave, so is the

jersey knit. The pique is a bit heavier and
rougher. The jersey is thinner and smoother
knit. The term golf polo can apply to both.
113
Jersey
Jerseyis
aknitfabricused
predominantly
forclothingmanufacture. It was originally made ofwool, but is now
made
of
wool,cotton,
andsynthetic
fibres.
SincemedievaltimesJersey,Channel Islands, where the material
was first produced, had been an important exporter of knitted
goods and the fabric in wool from Jersey became well known. The
fabric can be a very stretchysingle knitting, usually light-weight,
jersey with one flat side and one piled side. When made with a light
weight yarn, this is the fabric most often used to makeT-shirts.Or
it can be adouble knitted jersey (interlock jersey), with less
stretch, that creates a heavier fabric of two single jerseys knitted
together to leave the two flat sides on the outsides of the fabric,
with the piles in the middle. Jersey is considered to be an excellent
fabric fordraped garments, such as dresses, and women's tops.
114
Jersey
The following types of jersey can be

distinguished:
Single Jersey fabric - weight: 140 g / m
Double Jersey
Interlock Jersey
Jacquard Jersey
Clocqu Jersey
115
SINGLE JERSEY
116
DOUBLE JERSEY
117
INTERLOCK JERSEY
118
JACQUARD JERSEY
119
FABRIC
Atextileorclothis a flexible woven material consisting of a

network of natural or artificialfibresoften referred to as thread
oryarn. Yarn is produced byspinningraw fibres ofwool,flax,cotton,
or other material to produce long strands.Textiles are formed
byweaving,knitting,crocheting, knotting, or pressing fibres together
(felt).
The wordsfabricandclothare used in textile assembly trades (such
astailoringanddressmaking) as synonyms fortextile. However,
there are subtle differences in these terms in specialized
usage.Textilerefers to any material made of interlacing
fibres.Fabricrefers to any material made through weaving, knitting,
spreading, crocheting, or bonding that may be used in production of
further goods (garments, etc.).Clothmay be used synonymously
withfabricbut often refers to a finished piece of fabric used for a
specific purpose (e.g.,table cloth).
120
Types of Cotton Fabrics
Broadcloth: A tightly woven lustrous cotton cloth with

fine embedded crosswise ribs. Resembles poplin. Use:
shirts and blouses, as well as home decorating.
Canvas: Rugged, woven cloth made with coarse yarn.
Also called duck. Use: cushions, slipcovers, shower
curtains, paint drop-cloths.
Chambray: Fabric woven with a mixture of coloured and
white yarn. Use: curtains, shirts, dresses.
Chenille: A fuzzy cotton yarn or fabric that has pile
protruding around it, named for the French word for
caterpillar. Use: Heavyweight as upholstery; lightweight
for bedspreads and robes.
121
Chintz: Glazed fabric, often printed with floral designs or

stripes. Use: upholstery and curtains for the English
country look and romantic bedrooms.
Corduroy: Ribbed pile fabric in various weights and weaves.
Use: cushions, curtains, bedspreads, jumpers and pants.
Damask: Patterned fabric made on a jacquard loom. Use:
table linens and tea towels.
Denim: Rugged, durable twill, most popular in indigo blue,
but also white, tan, red, black. Use: jeans, slipcovers,
bedspreads, casual curtains.
Flannel: Plain-weave soft cloth with napped surface. Use:
winter pajamas, nightgowns and sheets.
122
Gingham: Yarn-dyed and woven usually in checks. Use:

kitchen curtains and little girls' pinafores, and more
recently sheets and pillowcases.
Jacquard: Fabric woven on the jacquard loom, which
produces elaborate, figured weaves. Use: decorative
fabrics such as tapestries, brocade and damask.
Knit: Stretchy fabric made by interlocking thread loops
together. Use: Different weights for T-shirts, underwear,
easy-care dresses and bedsheets.
Matelass: Double-woven in different patterns on a
jacquard loom to give a three-dimensional look. Use:
Outer bedding and elegant tablecloths.
123
Oxford: Fabric made with a modified plain or basket weave. Use:

button-down shirts and more recently, sheets and pillowcases.
Percale: A smooth, finely combed woven with a minimum thread
count of 180 threads per square inch. Use: sheets and clothing.
Poplin: Fabric with a fine horizontal rib effect on the surface and
high thread count. Use: high-quality shirting.
Pliss: Fabric treated with a solution that shrinks part of the
threads to create a crinkle effect. Use: blanket covers and
summer pajamas.
Sateen: A satin-weave cotton with a smooth, lustrous surface.
Striped sateen mixes lustrous with matte-finish stripes. Use:
sheets, tablecloths, curtains.
124
Seersucker: A lightweight cotton fabric with a woven crinkle

achieved by altering tension in the warp yarns. Use:
synonymous with the classic summer suit; also used in
sportswear, curtains, slipcovers.
Sheers: Batiste, lawn, organdy, dimity, dotted Swiss and voile
are all finely woven cotton sheers. Some are crisp, some are
soft. Use: summer party dresses, curtains and summer seethrough slipcovers for wooden chairs.
Terry cloth: Fabric with moisture-absorbing loop pile covering
the entire surface on one or both sides. Use: bath towels,
robes and cushion covers.
Twill: Durable fabric with diagonal lines on its face. Use: pants,
shorts, slipcovers.
Velvet: A warp-pile fabric with short, densely woven cut pile,
Presentation
Vinay Shekhar
giving the fabric a soft,
richBy:
texture.
Use: draperies, cushions 125
and clothing.
Types of Woolen Fabrics
Beaver clothis a heavywoolenovercoating, napped and

pressed down to resemble beaver fur.
Botany/Merino woolis a finewool fabricmade from worsted
wool yarn.
Broadclothis an allwoolenor worsted fabric with a velvety
feel.
Challis, a light weight softwool fabricin plain weave, has a
printed or woven design or flowers.
Cheviot, usually Scotch wool is a soft, fine wool that is heavier
than serge.
Chinchilla clothis a heavy, spongywoolenovercoat fabric
with a long nap that has been rubbed into a curly, nubby finish.
126
Donegalwas originally a thick and warm homespun or tweed

woven by Irish peasants in Donegal, Ireland. Donegal now describes
the wool tweed that has colorful thick slubs woven into the fabric.
Feltfabric is a compact sheet of entangled, not woven wool orfur
fibers. The felt is produced by processing a matoffibers with
moisture, heat, and pressure.
Flannelwool is a soft, lightweight fabric with a nap on one or both
sides.
Gabardineis a tightly woven wool twill with a high sheen. This
fabric is excellent for tailoring and wears well.
Glen checksare usually seen in menswear and originated in
Scotland. It is characterized by a varietyofsmall, even check
designs.
Harris tweedis a hand woven fabric from Scotland with a soft feel.
127
Heather Mixturedescribes tweeds and homespuns that

have colors of heather and sandofthe Scottish heather
fields.
Herringbone woolis woven in a twill that is reversed at
regular spacing, creating a sawtooth line.
Homespunis a loose, strong, durablewoolenwoven
either by hand or machine with a coarse feel.
Houndstooth checkhas a four pointed star check in a
broken twill weave.
Jerseyis a knit fabric that is usually knit in fine wool but
can also be found in silk, and man-made fibers.
Laineis French for wool.
128
Lambsdownis a heavy knit fabric that has a spongy

fleeced nap on one side.
Linsey-woolseyis a coarse fabric first made in Lindsey,
England,ofwool combined with flax or cotton.
Loden fabricis a thick, soft, waterproof, windproof, wool
used in outerwear that has a characteristic green color.
Mackinaw fabricis a heavy double fabric in striking
colored patterns.
Melton, a heavy, thick, short napped wovenfabric that
has been fulled.
Merino woolis soft and luxurious, resembling cashmere.
This term is also used to describe the finest wools.
129
Oatmeal Clothis a durable, soft wool with a pebbled face.

Panama Cloth, a plain woven worsted wool, sometimes
resembling the textureofPanama hat.
Petersham, a very thick, waterproofwoolencoating,
usually dark blue, is used for mens trousers or heavy coats.
Pilot Clothis a coarse, heavy, stout twilledwoolenthat is
heavily napped and navy blue. Used by seamen.
Poodle Clothis made with a boucle yarn and resembles
the Poodle dog.
Rabbit Hairis used in woven wools as a substitute for
vicuna to give a soft effect in the fabric.
130
Sharkskinis woven with warp and filling

yarnsofalternating white with black, brown or
blue.
Tartanis a twilled plaid design, originally
Scottish.
Tweedis a rough textured wool, originally
homespun and slightly felted. This fabric is
sturdy with a mottled color.
131
FIN
132

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PRODUCT TRAINING

Identification of various types of common knit fabrics

Identification of various types of common woven fabrics

Care Labelling System

International labelling systems and symbols

Fibres are the base unit of all textile materials

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

There are two types of fibres used in making

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

Natural fibres come from plants, animals and

Natural Plant Fibres

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

Cottonis a soft, fluffy staplefibrethat grows in aboll, or

The fibre is most often spun intoyarnor thread and used to

Sea Island Cotton

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

It is the strongest of the vegetable fibers.

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

Natural Protein Fibers

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

Sheared or pulled from the skin of sheep.

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

AngoraMade from the hair of the Angora rabbit, this

Warm and comfortable to wear

Silkis a naturalproteinfibre, some forms of which can bewovenintotextiles.

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

Reeled Silk - See also Thrown Silk and Cultivated Silk

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

Eri Eri is a unique variety and is spun from open

Silk fabric Types

Charmeuse This silk type is one of the most widely

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

Silk fabric Types

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

Most lustrous and luxurious.

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

Man-made fibres are classified into three

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

Fibres from Natural

The most common natural polymer fibre is

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

Fibres from Synthetic

There are very many synthetic fibres i.e.

Fibres from Inorganic

The inorganic man-made fibres are fibres

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

There are several fibres made from the naturally occurring

Viscose is definedby BISFA as being "a cellulose fibre

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar