Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
Fragrances and
Flavours
Mallari, Donna Joy
R.
ChE-4202
FRAGRANCES
Fragrance
Indulgence
Pleasure
Luxury
Fragrance is a
sensory
pleasure and a
vital part of
brand
communication.
Scent is an
emotional
catalyst.
What is
Perfume?
Perfume is a mixture of
fragrant essential oil
and aroma compounds,
fixatives, and solvents
used to give the human
body, objects, and
living spaces a
pleasant smell.
Up until then,
perfumes were
produced with an
oil or animal fat
base and were
used as lotions
and pomades.
Greece
By the 7th century
BC, Athens had
developed into a
mercantile center in
which hundreds of
perfumers set up
shop.
France
16th & 17th centuries - Southern France (Grasse) becomes
a center of expertise for the growing, extraction and
distillation of essential oils.
France becomes the Perfume center of the world. Large
scale cultivation & processing of valuable plants for oils
such as rose soon was centered there. And raw materials
from around the world were imported for processing.
Extraction & distillation techniques were refined.
Raw Materials
Natural ingredientsflowers, grasses, spices,
fruit, wood, roots, resins,
balsams, leaves, gums,
and animal secretions
as well as resources like
alcohol, petrochemicals,
coal, and coal tars are
used in the manufacture
of perfumes.
Aromatics Sources
Plant Sources
Plants have long been used in perfumery
as a source of essential oils and aroma
compounds.
These aromatics are usually secondary
metabolites produced by plants as
protection against herbivores, infections,
as well as to attract pollinators. Plants
are by far the largest source of fragrant
compounds used in perfumery.
The sources of these compounds may
be derived from various parts of a plant.
A plant can offer more than one source
of aromatics, for instance the aerial
portions and seeds of coriander have
remarkably different odors from each
other.
Roots, rhizomes
and bulbs:
Commonly used
terrestrial portions in
perfumery include iris
rhizomes, vetiver
roots, various
rhizomes of the
ginger family.
Seeds: Commonly
used seeds include
tonka bean,
coriander, caraway,
cocoa, nutmeg,
mace, cardamom,
and anise.
Woods: Highly
important in providing
the base notes to a
perfume, wood oils
and distillates are
indispensable in
perfumery. Commonly
used woods include
sandalwood,
rosewood, agar wood,
birch, cedar, juniper,
and pine.
Animal Sources
Animal substances are often used as fixatives that
enable perfume to evaporate slowly and emit odors
longer. Other fixatives include coal tar, mosses,
resins, or synthetic chemicals.
Civet from civet
cat
ambergris from
the sperm whale
SYNTHETIC SOURCES
Synthetics can
provide
fragrances
which are not
found in
nature.
WHY?
Odour
Amberlyn/Ambrox/Ambroxan
Ambergris
Carvone
Spearmint
Rose
Dihydromyrcenol
Citrus,floral
Rose
Hydroxycitronellal
Muguet
Pine
Linalool
Floral, wood
Linalyl acetate
Fruit, floral
Menthol
Mint, coolant
(Methyl)ionones
Violet
Pine
Acetylated cedarwood
Cedar
Hemiterpenoids
Acyclic Monoterpenoids
The alcohols geraniol/nerol, linalool,
citronellol and their esters are the
largest tonnage materials of this
class.
Cyclic Monoterpenes
The three most important cyclic monoterpenoids are lmenthol, l-carvone and -terpineol (including its esters). lMenthol occurs in a number of mint oils and is used not
only for its minty odour, but also, and more importantly,
for its physiological cooling effect.
Isopulegol is prepared
from citronellal, as
discussed in the section on
menthol, and is a precursor
to other materials in the
group.
Menthofuran is a minor
component of mint oils and can
be prepared from pulegone,
though normally, its presence in
mint is undesirable because of
its odour properties.
PERFUME INGREDIENTS
DERIVED FROM BENZENE
PERFUME INGREDIENTS
DERIVED FROM TOLUENE
Air oxidation of toluene gives predominantly benzoic acid.
This is used in perfumery for the preparation of benzoate
esters, benzophenone and various other compounds, but
this use is dwarfed by the other industrial uses of benzoic
acid.
It is used in many different ways, for instance, as
precursor for nylon monomers. Crude benzoic acid
contains a small amount of benzaldehyde and this is
easily extracted from it.
In view of the huge volume of benzoic acid produced, the
volume of benzaldehyde recovered from it makes a
substantial contribution to that used by the perfumery
industry.
PERFUME INGREDIENTS
DERIVED FROM PHENOL
Phenol is a material of major commercial importance. One of its earliest uses was as
a disinfectant (carbolic acid).
Earlier in the twentieth century, it became important as a feedstock for resins such as
Bakelite, and in the latter part of the century, it also became very important as a
precursor for caprolactone and caprolactam and hence polyester and polyamide
manufacture.
The two major methods for phenol production nowadays are by catalytic oxidation of
benzoic acid and catalytic decomposition of cumene hydroperoxide.
Diphenyl oxide, prepared from phenol, is important in rose and other floral
fragrances.
MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Collection
Before the manufacturing process
begins, the initial ingredients must be
brought to the manufacturing center.
Plant substances are harvested from
around the world, often hand-picked for
their fragrance.
Animal products are obtained by
extracting the fatty substances directly
from the animal.
Extraction
Aging
Blending
Perfumed
Products
Fine Fragrance
(Happy, Chanel No. 5, etc)
Air Care
(Candles, Electricals, etc)
Fabric Care
(Detergents, Conditioners,
etc)
Personal Care
(Shampoos, AP/DEOs, etc)
Personal Wash
(Bar Soaps, Liquid Body or
Hand Wash, etc)
Home Care
(Dish Wash, All Purpose
Cleaners, etc)
Chemistry of
FLAVOURS
Flavour
o sensory impression of a food or
other substance, and is determined mainly
by the chemical senses of taste and smell.
o involves the combination of the four basic
stimuli with the concurrent odor sensations.
encompassing both aroma and taste
provides the defining characteristic of how
we experience food.
Taste
Flavor has long been an
enigma to scientists:
Aristotle described two
categories of taste,
sweet and bitter. Today
we recognize five basic
tastes in food:
Sweetness
Saltiness
Sourness
Bitterness
umami (savory).
Flavorants
Foods may contain more than a thousand
chemical compounds that contribute to their
flavour. Many of these naturally occurring
compounds may be too unstable to be used
in commercial flavourings where they may
need to be stored for some time before
being used. For this reason, 'copies' of the
natural flavour are often developed.
Flavorant is defined as a substance that
gives another substance flavor, altering the
characteristics of the solute, causing it to
become sweet, sour, tangy, etc.
Flavourings are used in food products at
very low concentrations. They are normally
made from a mixture of substances which
provide a flavouring of suitable strength that
can be stored and then used in the food
production process.
Flavourings
may
contain ...
Flavouring Substances
are chemically defined substances with flavouring properties.
Flavouring Preparations
- are natural complexes used because of their flavouring properties. They
contain flavouring constituents and they are obtained by appropriate physical,
microbiological or enzymatic processes from foodstuffs or other material of
vegetable or animal origin, either in the raw state or after processing for human
consumption by traditional food-preparation processes (including drying,
torrefaction and fermentation).
Process Flavourings
-means products which are obtained according to good manufacturing
practices by heating a mixture of ingredients to a temperature not exceeding 180
C for a period not exceeding 15 min , the ingredients themselves not
necessarily having flavouring properties, and at least one of which contains
nitrogen (amino) and another is a reducing sugar.
Smoke Flavourings
-means smoke extracts used in traditional foodstuff smoking processes
Primary smoke condensate
Primary tar fraction
Primary products
Derived smoke flavourings
Flavouring Adjuvants.
- are foodstuffs, food additives, other food ingredients or processing aids
which are necessary to ensure the safety and quality of flavourings and to
facilitate the production, storage and intended use of flavourings.
Flavouring adjuvants may also include flavour modifiers.
Chemical
Odor
Diacetyl
Buttery
Isoamyl acetate
Banana
Benzaldehyde
Bitter almond
Cinnamaldehyde
Cinnamon
Ethyl propionate
Fruity
Methyl anthranilate
Grape
Limonene
Orange
Ethyl decadienoate
Pear
Allyl hexanoate
Pineapple
Ethyl maltol
Ethylvanillin
Vanilla
Methyl salicylate
Wintergreen
Flavor Enhancer
Glutamic acid salts
This amino acid'ssodiumsalt,monosodium glutamate(MSG),
is one of the most commonly used flavor enhancers in food
processing. Mono and diglutamate salts are also commonly used.
Glycinesalts
Simple amino acid salts typically combined with glutamic acid
as flavor enhancers.
Guanylic acid salts
Nucleotide salts typically combined with glutamic acid as
flavor enhancers.
Inosinic acidsalts
Nucleotide salts created from the breakdown of AMP. Due to
high costs of production, typically combined with glutamic acid
as flavor enhancers.
5'-ribonucleotidesalts
Nucleotide salts typically combined with other
amino acids and nucleotide salts as flavor enhancers.
Acetic acid
Gives vinegar its sour taste and distinctive
smell
Ascorbic acid
Found in oranges and green peppers and gives a
crisp, slightly sour taste. Better known asvitamin C.
Citric acid
Found in citrus fruits and
gives them their sour taste
Fumaric acid
Not found in fruits, used as a substitute for citric and tartaric acid
Lactic acid
Found in various milk orfermented
productsand give them a rich tartness
Malic acid
Found in apples and gives them
their sour/tart taste
Phosphoric acid
Used in all cola drinks to give
an acid taste
Tartaric acid
Found in grapes and wines and
gives them a tart taste
Natural Flavoring
Substances
Flavoring substances
obtained from plant or
animal raw materials,
by physical,
microbiological or
enzymatic processes.
They can be either
used in their natural
state or processed for
human consumption,
but cannot contain any
nature-identical or
artificial flavoring
substances.
Nature-Identical
Flavoring
Substances
Flavoring
substances that are
obtained by synthesis
or isolated through
chemical processes,
which are chemically
and organoleptically
identical to flavoring
substances naturally
present in products
intended for human
consumption. They
cannot contain any
artificial flavoring
substances.
Artificial Flavoring
Substances
Flavoring substances
not identified in a natural
product intended for
human consumption,
whether or not the
product is processed.
These are typically
produced by fractional
distillation and additional
chemical manipulation of
naturally sourced
chemicals, crude
oil or coal tar. Although
they are chemically
different, in sensory
characteristics are the
same as natural ones.