TYPES OF SEAMS

CL ASS 2
L APPED SEAM

Please view in slideshow

What is Lapped Seam?

According to Clothing Technology by Carr and Lathm,
Lapped seams are made by overlapping the seam allowances of two or
more fabric plies and sewing them together, with the plies extending in
opposite directions.
These may be sewn with a lock stitch or a chain stitch but not an overedge stitch. There are two rows of stitches and stitching is done on the
right side.
This is the largest class of seams consisting of 102 types (according to
U.S. Federal Standard 751a) varying on the where the seam is lapped or
how they are lapped.
Lapped seams are denoted by LS followed by its type.

Straight Stitch

Zig-Zag Stich

Readers Digest A complete guide to Sew

Federal Standard Stitches, Seams & S

Federal Standard Stitches, Seams & S

POPULAR TYPES OF LAPPED

SEAMS
Flat and felled seam (LSc)
Mock flat and felled seam (LSbm)
Welt Seam (LSq)
Tuck Seam
Slot Seam
Cord Seam

Flat and Felled (LSc)

The flat and felled seams are
made by first joining the two
plies, then clean finishing the
seam with a folded and top
stitched edge. Both the seam
allowances are folded under.
Characteristics: Double sewn
seam, clean finish, identical on
both sides, no raw edges, no
fraying, comfortable and
withstands repeated washing.

Fabric Choice: Medium to

Heavy weight woven
fabrics, from shirting to
heavy denim and
upholstery.
Applications: Sportswear,
Reversible garments, Side
seams of jeans, shirts,
dresses.

A Guide to Fashion Sewing , Connie Amaden-Crawf

Mock Flat and Felled (LSbm)

The mock flat and felled seam,
commonly known as Mock seam
imitates the flat and felled seam.
It is made by first sewing a plain
seam with a safety stitch and then
the seam allowances are pressed to
one side and top stitched.
This seam looks like a flat-felled
seam on the outside however on the
inside the seam allowances can be
seen unlike the flat-felled seam.

Characteristics: Less costly, less bulky, more flexible and

easier to alter than flat-felled; stronger than plain seams;
comfortable and withstands repeated washing.
Fabric Choice: Medium to Heavy weight woven fabrics
Applications: In jeans, shorts, dresses (crotch area and ends)

Ready to Wear Apparel Analysis, 2nd Editi

Ready to Wear Apparel Analysis, 2nd Editi

WELT SEAM (LSq)

The welt seams are made by
superimposing two plies with the raw
edges uneven; and sewing a plain
seam. Both the seam allowances are
pressed in one direction and topstitched
to catch the wider seam allowance.
The dimension is provided by the
narrower seam allowance which pads
the area. The finished seams appears
somewhat puffy creating a decorative
welt.

Characteristics: Strong, Puffy,

Decorative, emphasizes style lines in
garments (esp. heavy fabrics), cannot be
altered to make the garment larger.
Fabric Choices: Mostly heavy weight
fabrics like denim
Applications: Princess Style seams,
yoke seams.
Types:
DOUBLE STITCHED WELT SEAM: It has an
additional row of stitching set in one-fourth
inch or less from the edge.
OPEN WELT SEAM: It is first stitched as a
plain seam. Then basted down flat, with the
stitches directly over the line of bastings in
the seam. With one row of machine stitching
the fold and the seam is secured.

A Guide to Fashion Sewing , Connie Amaden-Crawf

TUCK SEAM
The tuck seam is made by stitching the
seam farther back from the edge of the
upper ply, thus creating a small flap.
It is called so because the seam resembles
a tuck.
Characteristics: Decorative

Readers Digest A complete guide to Sew

SLOT SEAM
The slot seam is made when the
edges of the two fabric piles are
turned under and nearly
abutted. They are lapped over a
stitched to a narrow fabric
underlay, usually of a
contrasting color. This color
shows through the narrow slot
where the fabric panels almost
touch.

Characteristics: Decorative,
Costly in both fabric and
labor
Fabric Choice: Contrasting
color, usually lace or other
light weight fabric with
medium weight fabric.
Applications: Yoke seams

A Guide to Fashion Sewing , Connie Amaden-Crawf

Ready to Wear Apparel Analysis, 2nd Editi

CORD SEAM
The cord seam is a plain seam with
both edges turned to one side and
stitched at about one-fourth of an
inch from the seam through the three
thicknesses. This creates a raised or
cord like effect.
Characteristics: Decorative, Stiff
finish, Accentuates the lines.
Fabric Choice: Medium weight
fabrics
Applications: Necklines, collar
edges, pocket edges, home fashion
accessories like throw pillows.

A Guide to Fashion Sewing , Connie Amaden-Crawf

Line Diagrams of Lapped Seam

Technology of Clothing, Glock

Technology of Clothing, Glock

ADVANTAGE
Strong
Durable
Seam slippage tendency is low

DISADVANATAGE
Bulky and rigid in heavy fabrics
Difficult to alter
Can be used only on straight or fairly straight
edges

GARMENT ANALYSI

Ready to Wear Apparel Analysis, 2nd Editi

References
A Guide to Fashion Sewing , Connie Amaden-Crawford
Sew Simple- A step by step guide to Dressmaking
Federal Standard Stitches, Seams & Stitching
Ready to Wear Apparel Analysis, 2nd Edition
Readers Digest A complete guide to Sewing
Clothing Technology, Carr and Lathm
Technology of Clothing, Glocke

THANK YOU
ISHA
S H W E TA S A H A
B FT 3