WELCOME TO THE

PRESENTATION

EXTRACTION AND APPLICATION OF

PLANT DYES
SUBMITTED TO
Prof. Dr. Engr. Zulhash Uddin
Dean
Faculty of Textile Chemical Engineering
Bangladesh University of Textiles

SUBMITTED BY
Sinthia Jaman
M.Sc in Textile Engineering(5th Batch)
Wet Processing Technology
I.D NO : 2016-02-03-008

INTRODUCTION
Creating and using plant-based dyes is a wonderful way
to gain an understanding of the biology and the
chemistry at work in the plants around us. Sources of
plant dyes are everywhere. Until the mid -19th century
plants were the primary sources of dye. Today
researcher are interested in working with the various
plant dyes.Plants dyes are used to color textiles, food,
medicine etc.But the process of extraction and
appllication is quite difficult.

AREA OF DISSCUTION
Plant dyes
Classification
Different plant dyes
Uses of plant dyes
Extraction & application of plant dyes
Advantage & Disadvantage of plant dyes
Future trends
Conclution

PLANT DYES
The roots, nuts and flowers of plants that grow in our
backyards are all sources of colouring pigments and
dyes. Most of them produce very colourful effects that
are so amazing to behold. Colouring matter extracted
from the roots,stems,leaves or barriers,and flowers of
various plants have various exceptions and are also not
substantive (have little or no colouring power by
themselves) except when used in conjunction with
mordants

Part of the Plants

Dyestuffs

Root

Turmeric, Madder (Manjistha), Onions,

Beet-root

Bark/ Branches

Purple bark, Sappan wood, Shillicorai,

Khair, Red, Sandalwood

Leaf

Indigo, Henna, Eucalyptus, Tea,Cardamon,

Coral Jasmine, Lemon Grass

Fruits/Seeds

Latkan, Pomegranate rind, Beetle nut,

Myrobolan (Harda

Flowers (Petals)

Marigold, Dahlia, Tesu, Kusum

CLASSIFICATION (Chemical constitution)

Indigoid dyes: Indigo and tyrian purple are the common
examples .These are blue dye.
Anthraquinone dyes: Almost all the red natural dyes are
based on anthraquinoid structure.Madder,lacs, kermes,dyes
possess this type of structure.These are generally mordant
dyes.
Naphthoquinones: Typical example of this class is lawsone
(henna), cultivated mainly in India and Egypt. This dyes give
shades of orange.
Flavonoids:This are yellow dyes can be classified under
flavones, isoflavones,aurones and chalcones.Flavones are
colourless organic compounds.

 Di-hydropyrans: Closely related to the flavones.These

dyes produces dark shades on silk,wool and
cotton.Sappan-wood is the common example.
Anthocyanidins: The member of this class includes
carajurin,a direct orange dye for wool and cotton. It is
obtained from the leaves of bignonia chica.
Carotenoids:The carotene is derived from the
carrots.these are the orange dyes.

Natural dye yielding plant:

Coconut:
Scientific name: Cocos nucifera L.

Description: The husk is outside of the

shell

Plant part used: Husk of young

coconut

Colors produced: Maroon, yellowish

brown, brown and pinkish brown

Annato:
Scientific name: Bixa orellana L.
Description: This plant originated
from Brazil.The flower are white or
pinkish

capsules

and

somewhat

rounded, reddish brown, about 4 cm

and covered with red pulp

Plant part used: Seeds

Colors produced: Light orange,
brownish orange and yellow orange

Banana:
Scientific name: Musa
sapientum L.

Description: Locally grow around

in the village, leave are used for
packaging, fruit for eating.

Plant part used: Leave

Colors produced: Light gray,
beige

Indian almond:
Scientific name: Terminalia
catappa L.

Description: 6-18 cm, spirally

arranged, smooth, shining and
tapering below the narrow and
subcordate base (show picture)

Plant part used: Leaves

Colors produced: Black and gray

INDIGO:
Scientific name: Indigofera
tinctoria

Description:The leaves contain

about 3% indigo

Plant part used:Leaves

Colors produced: Blue

Marigold:
Scientific name:Tagetes patula
Description: Small tree with
beautiful flowers varying in
colour(yellow,orange,)

Plant part used: Flower

Colors produced: Yellow,
Orange

USES OF PLANT DYES:

For textile coloration
For food coloration
For medicination

TEXTILE COLORATOIN
Textile materials can be Colored by using the plant dyes.
Previously traditional process was uesd but now a days
process have been improved.

This process is carried out by following

steps:
Extraction of dyes from plants.
Use of mordants
Applicaton of dyes on textile materials

Traditional Plant Dyeing Process

No pretreatment of the materials to be dyed
No proper determination of material composition
No mordant use
No specific liquor ratio
No time consideration in extraction and dyeing
No thorough rinsing to remove excess dyes

Extraction
Extraction of natural dyes from plant parts (bark, leaves,
seeds, flowers) is the process of harnessing the pigment
from the dye source. This is usually done by boiling of barks,
woods, seeds and/or rhizomes while, fermentation and
maceration are efficient for leaves and flowers, respectively.
Prior there to, plant parts are chopped/cut into smaller sizes
for more effective dye extraction as characterized by higher
color intensity of the extract.

 The collected source material is generally shadow dried

in air or sun dried within a temperature range of 37-40C
to reduce the moisture content from 40-80% to 10-15%
with proper drying.
After drying, grinding is carried out to break down the
material into very small units or preferably powder form.
Extraction refers to separating the desired colour
component by physical or chemical means with the aid of
a solvent.
Optimum conditions of extraction variables are
determined through extracting the natural colour
component from source material by varying extraction
parameters of liquor and
measuring
the optical
density of corresponding
coloured liquor by
using spectrophotometer.
Then washing and finally drying to get the purified natural
colour.

Several Extraction process

Aqueous Extraction System
Extraction by non-aqueous and other solvent assisted
system
Extraction by acid and alkali assisted system
Ultrasound assisted extraction process

Modarnting
Mordant metallic substance that creates a chemical
affinity between the substrate and the dyestuffs and fix
the coloring matter on the materials permanently.
better absorption of dyes
improved colorfastness properties
enhanced color shades
Mordants
Copper sulfate
Ferrous sulfate
Alum

Application process:(Cellulosic fibres)

1. Dunging - The cloth is soaked for one night in a solution of
water and fresh dung.
2. Washing Next morning,cloth is thoroughly washed, rinsed
and water sprinkling is continued over the cloth at short interval
until evening, then it is finally washed and dried
3. Steaming Then the cloth is steamed for one night in an
ordinary Khumb or washermans steaming pot
4. Steeping in alkaline-The cloth is soaked in a mixture of
water,oil [castor oil or gingili oil], and alkali (soda).
5. Rinsing- Cloth is then again rinsed thoroughly and spread out
to dry.
6.The last two processes are repeated for 3-7 days.In specific
case, the cloth is kept in the solution for sometimes,and then
taken out,rinsed and dried twice daily.

 7. Washing- The cloth is then finally washed in clean water, to

remove the whole of the oil, and finally dried in air under the
sun.
8. Drying- The cloth is spread or wrung out for drying.
9. Mordanting- The cloth is then pre-mordanted by dipping it
in a solution of potash alum and water.The cloth is thus ready
for subsequent dyeing.
10. Dyeing- For dyeing the cloth is generally boiled with an
aqueous extracted solution of the natural dye until all the
colouring matter is absorbed by the cloth.
11. Drying- The dyed fabric is next washed and spread out to
dry gradually in air under the sun.Water is sprinkled at certain
interval over the cloth, so as
to brighten the colour, this
process is continued for 2-4 days.
12. Finishing- If required,the cloth is finally starched by
dipping it in a paste of rice or wheat flour, or in a solution of
babool gum and then dried

Food Coloration
The visual appearance of a food is a major factor in
determining its acceptance by the consumer, who has a
number of inbuilt expectations regarding the proper
colour for a particular type of food, such as accepting
peas to be green and strawberry jam to be red.
Plant dyes are more acceptable and hygenic for
consumer.

Substance

Colour

Sources

Used in

Anthocyani
ns

orange-red
berries,roses,
to red to blue
grapes,apples

candyfruit,red ice
cream, yogurt, jams,

Carmine

Red

candy,dairy
products,

cochineal
insect

drinks,
fruitfillings
Carotenoid

yellow to
orange

Saffron,Carrots Meat products,

Tomatoes,
cheese

Turmeric

Yellow

Curcuma longa pickles,mustard,

rhizome
Spices, Cooking oil,
Baked goods,cheese

Medicination
The plant dyes are used for medicinal
remedies of various ailments.
Henna (Lawsonia inermis) leaves are
mashed and applied to the nails to
prevent inflammation and promote
healthy growth,as well as to the
eyelids to prevent eye strain.
The young leaves of Brimstone
(Morinda
lucida)gives
a
green
dye.Roots or stem with spices is drunk
or
used
as
enema
for
fever,constipation,
piles
and
dysentery.The bitter roots are used in
local gonorrhoea prescriptions.

Advantage of plant dyes

The shades produced by Plant dyes/colourants are usually
soft, lustrous soothing to the human eye.
Plant dyes can produce a wide range of colours by mix and
match system.A which are not easily possible with synthetic
dyestuffs.
Plant dyes produce rare colour ideas and are automatically
harmonizing.
It is a hygienic process for food coloration.
Plant dyes are biodegradable. In some cases like harda,
indigo etc., the waste in the process becomes an ideal
fertilizer for use in agricultural fields.

Disadvantage
It is difficult to reproduce shades by using plant
dyes/colourants
The dyed textile may change colour when exposed to the
sun, sweat and air.
With a few exceptions, most of the plant dyes are fugitive.So
it is not suitable for textile and food coloration.
Extraction and application process of plant dyes are quite
difficult.

Future trends
One promising future method involves using biocatalysts
in the dye reaction process.The dyes produced by this
method is chemically the same as the regular synthetic
dye and behaves identically in dyeing tests.However, this
process is expensive but several research and
development companies already begin to use this new
technology.
Use of suitable binary or ternary mixtures of similar or
compatible plant dyes for colouring natural eco-friendly
textiles in variety of soothing / uncommon shades with
eco-friendly mordants and finishing agents are the most
desireable product of the customers for future.

Conclution
Most of the Plant dyes/ colour are eco-safe, except a few.
Some of the plant colours are not only eco-safe, but also
has added value for its medicinal effects on skin.Textile
dyers must know the chemistry of these natural colours and
its added advantages of medicinal;values.The nonreproducibility and poor colour fastness etc,have been partly
solved by many researchers continuous efforts in this
endevour. So,a textile dyer must know the effects of
variability for extraction, mordanting and dyeing and should
follow only the standardized recipe for selection fibremordant-natural dye system to get reproducible colour yield
and colour matching .So, plant dyeing/colouration of textiles
by industrial processes in large scale dyeing unit is now a
reality in the textile market of eco-friendly textiles.