Engineered Pique With Samples

Engineered Pique:
The Making of the Perfect

Single Knit Pique Fabric
Piqu Knits
In todays marketplace:
Piqu knits are the first choice for

casual and sportswear shirtings.
This product is considered by
consumers to be a must have for the
active wardrobe.
Piqu Knits
Named for the French word to pierce
due to the tuck stitches that create
openness and texture to the fabric.
Other descriptive terms:

crisp
comfortable
rich with character
light and airy
Engineered Single Knit Piqu

Objective
To study the effect of Run-in-Ratio and other
construction parameters on:
fabric weight
width
hand
appearance
Single Piqu
Definition
A single knit construction where:
tuck loops alternate with knitted loops within

the same course, and
between one course and another in the same
wale.
Other Terms:
Cross-tuck
Lacoste
Double Cross-Tuck
Double Lacoste
Three Basic Piqu Fabrics
4 K T
4 K T
3 K K
3 K T
2 T K
2 T K
1 K K
1 T K
Single
Piqu
Double
Piqu
6 K
5 K
4 K
3 T
2 T
1 K
T
K
K
Six-Feed
Piqu
Piqu Construction
Technical Face
Technical Back
Effect of Tuck Stitches

on a Fabric
Wider
More length shrinkage
Less width shrinkage
Less extensible in the width
More open
Thicker
Texture
Lower strength
Most Common Complaints

Piqu Fabrics
Fit
Dimensional stability
Appearance
Hand
Terms for Discussion

Stitch Length
the amount of yarn in one loop in a knitted
fabric.
is calculated by dividing the inches of yarn
fed to one course in the fabric by the
number of needles knitting in the cylinder.
240 inches = 0.120 inches

2000 needles

Tightness Factor (TF)
A number that indicates the relative
tightness of knitting, taking account of
both:
the thickness of the yarn
the length of the loops
English
Metric
TF =
9.567
Lin Ne
TF =
*note: For single pique,TF is calculated on the jersey feed only.
Tex
Lcm
Suggested TF Ranges
Basic Fabrics
Normal
Limits
Single Jersey
14 - 18
12 - 20
Interlock
10 - 14
8 - 16
1x1 Rib
14 - 18
12 - 20
Single Piqu
14 - 18
12 - 20
Double Piqu
14 - 18
12 - 20
Six-Thread Piqu
14 - 18
12 - 20

Run-in-Ratio (RIR)
In cross-tuck fabrics containing an all knit
course and a knit-tuck course, the ratio is
obtained by dividing the length of the knittuck course by the length of the all knit
course
CLK-T
RIR = _______
CLK
Ne
16/1
18/1
20/1
2-36/1
2-40/1
Knitting Layouts for Single Piqu Study

RIR Stitch Length
Ne RIR Stitch Length
All-Knit KnitAll-Knit KnitTuck
Tuck
18 Gauge
28 Gauge
0.85 0.154 0.131
28/1 0.85 0.117 0.100
1.00 0.154 0.154
1.00 0.117 0.117
1.15 0.154 0.177
1.15 0.117 0.140
0.85 0.145 0.124
30/1 0.85 0.113 0.096
1.00 0.145 0.145
1.00 0.113 0.113
1.15 0.145 0.167
1.15 0.113 0.129
0.85 0.138 0.118
32/1 0.85 0.109 0.093
1.00 0.138 0.138
1.00 0.109 0.109
1.15 0.138 0.159
1.15 0.109 0.125
0.85 0.145 0.124 2-50/1 0.85 0.124 0.105
1.00 0.145 0.145
1.00 0.124 0.124
1.15 0.145 0.167
1.15 0.124 0.142
0.85 0.138 0.118 2-60/1 0.85 0.113 0.096
1.00 0.138 0.138
1.00 0.113 0.113
1.15 0.138 0.159
1.15 0.113 0.129
Run-in-Ratio for Single Piqu*

Sample
Stitch Length
Tuck Jersey
TF
RIR
0.131 0.154
15.53
0.85
0.154 0.154
15.53
1.00
0.177 0.154
15.53
1.15
* 16/1 Combed Ring Spun - Dyed and Finished
Run-in-Ratio for Single Piqu*

Sample
Stitch Length
Tuck Jersey
TF
RIR
0.154
0.181
13.21
0.85
0.154
0.154
15.53
1.00
0.154
0.134
17.48
1.15
Effect of RIR on Fabric Parameters

Sample
RIR
Width
Weight
Burst
Oz/yd2
Lbs/in2
0.85
49.2
7.2
81.7
1.00
55.7
6.7
71.1
1.15
62.0
6.1
62.0
RIR vs Reference Weight
Weight, oz/yd2
9.000
8.000
7.000
6.000
5.000
4.000
0.7
0.85
Run-in-Ratio
1.15
18 cut - 16/1 Ne
18 cut - 18/1 Ne
18 cut - 20/1 Ne
18 cut - 2(36/1 Ne)
18 cut - 2(40/1 Ne)
28 cut - 28/1 Ne
28 cut - 30/1 Ne
28 cut - 32/1 Ne
28 cut - 2(50/1 Ne)
28 cut - 2(60/1 Ne)
Linear (28 cut - 2(60/1 Ne))
1.3
Weight, oz/yd2
RIR vs Reference Weight
7.000
4.000
0.7
0.85
1.15
Run-in-Ratio
18 cut - 16/1 Ne
18 cut - 18/1 Ne
18 cut - 20/1 Ne
18 cut - 2(36/1 Ne)
18 cut - 2(40/1 Ne)
28 cut - 28/1 Ne
28 cut - 30/1 Ne
28 cut - 32/1 Ne
28 cut - 2(50/1 Ne)
28 cut - 2(60/1 Ne)
Linear (28 cut - 2(60/1 Ne))
1.3
RIR vs Reference Width
100.0
Width, inches
90.0
80.0
70.0
60.0
50.0
40.0
30.0
0.7
0.85
1
Run-in-Ratio
1.15
1.3
18 cut - 16/1 Ne
18 cut - 18/1 Ne
18 cut - 20/1 Ne
18 cut - 2(36/1 Ne)
18 cut - 2(40/1 Ne)
28 cut - 28/1 Ne
28 cut - 30/1 Ne
28 cut - 32/1 Ne
28 cut - 2(50/1 Ne)
28 cut - 2(60/1 Ne)
Width, inches
RIR vs Reference Width
80.0
55.0
30.0
0.7
0.85
1
Run-in-Ratio
1.15
1.3
18 cut - 16/1 Ne
18 cut - 18/1 Ne
18 cut - 20/1 Ne
18 cut - 2(36/1 Ne)
18 cut - 2(40/1 Ne)
28 cut - 28/1 Ne
28 cut - 30/1 Ne
28 cut - 32/1 Ne
28 cut - 2(50/1 Ne)
28 cut - 2(60/1 Ne)
Engineered Piqu Study

Panel Evaluation
Appearance
Hand
Smoothness
Openness
Texture

Panel Evaluation - 18 Gauge Fabrics
Run-in-Ratio*
Singles Yarns
0.85
1.00
1.15
Appearance
69
19
12
Hand
88
12
Smoothness
99
Openness
10
90
Texture
91
* % of Panelists

Run-in-Ratio*
2 Ends Per Feed
0.85
1.00
1.15
Appearance
63
21
16
Hand
75
13
12
Smoothness
94
Openness
14
86
Texture
19
81
* % of Panelists

Run-in-Ratio*
Singles Yarns
0.85
1.00
1.15
Appearance
46
34
20
Hand
71
26
Smoothness
87
13
Openness
18
81
Texture
18
80
* % of Panelists

Run-in-Ratio*
2 Ends Per Feed
0.85
1.00
1.15
Appearance
58
23
19
Hand
88
12
Smoothness
93
Openness
15
84
Texture
19
--
81
* % of Panelists

Conclusions
The lower the RIR value at the same TF :
the heavier the fabric
the narrower the fabric
the better the appearance
the better the hand
the smoother the fabric
the less open the structure
the less texture in the fabric
THANK YOU !!
SSANGYONG MACHINE

Engineered Pique With Samples

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Engineered Pique With Samples

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Formate disponibile

Engineered Pique:

The Making of the Perfect

Piqu knits are the first choice for

Other descriptive terms:

Engineered Single Knit Piqu

A single knit construction where:

tuck loops alternate with knitted loops within

Three Basic Piqu Fabrics

Effect of Tuck Stitches

More length shrinkage

Less width shrinkage

Less extensible in the width

Most Common Complaints

Terms for Discussion

240 inches = 0.120 inches

Terms for Discussion

*note: For single pique,TF is calculated on the jersey feed only.

Terms for Discussion

Knitting Layouts for Single Piqu Study

Run-in-Ratio for Single Piqu*

* 16/1 Combed Ring Spun - Dyed and Finished

Run-in-Ratio for Single Piqu*

* 16/1 Combed Ring Spun - Dyed and Finished

Effect of RIR on Fabric Parameters

* 16/1 Combed Ring Spun - Dyed and Finished

RIR vs Reference Weight

18 cut - 2(36/1 Ne)

18 cut - 2(40/1 Ne)

28 cut - 2(50/1 Ne)

28 cut - 2(60/1 Ne)

Linear (28 cut - 2(60/1 Ne))

RIR vs Reference Weight

18 cut - 2(36/1 Ne)

18 cut - 2(40/1 Ne)

28 cut - 2(50/1 Ne)

28 cut - 2(60/1 Ne)

Linear (28 cut - 2(60/1 Ne))

RIR vs Reference Width

18 cut - 2(36/1 Ne)

18 cut - 2(40/1 Ne)

28 cut - 2(50/1 Ne)

28 cut - 2(60/1 Ne)

RIR vs Reference Width

18 cut - 2(36/1 Ne)

18 cut - 2(40/1 Ne)

28 cut - 2(50/1 Ne)

28 cut - 2(60/1 Ne)

Engineered Piqu Study

Engineered Piqu Study

Engineered Piqu Study

Engineered Piqu Study

Engineered Piqu Study

Engineered Piqu Study

the heavier the fabric

the narrower the fabric

the better the appearance

the better the hand

the smoother the fabric

the less open the structure

the less texture in the fabric

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