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Physical Process On The Beach

System
Department of Marine Geology&Geophysics

Alimjan Abla

Outline

1. Introduction
2. Forces moving sediment at the beach
3. Wave Characteristics
4. Beach profile
5. Summary

The beach system

Wave
Near shore
currents

Tides and
storm surges

Waves
Waves absorb energy from the wind. That energy is transmitted across the water
surface by waves. At the shoreline, waves break and unleash that energy on the beach.
Orbital Motion in water
wave:
- Motion within a wave tends
to be circular
- The circles get smaller with
depth
- The wave effect extends to
about 1/2 wavelength
(wave base)
Wave orbital Velocity Ub
Wave Speed C
C=L/T
C = celerity,
L = wavelength,
T = period

Classification of Waves

Waves are divided into Deep Water


Waves, Shallow Water Waves, and
Intermediate Waves

Deep Water Waves water depth > 1/2 L


Shallow Water Waves water depth < 1/20 L
Intermediate Waves in-between

Wave properties differ


depending on type.

Wave Characteristics
H height
T period
C Celerity (speed)

L - wavelength

In deep water:

gT
C
2

gT 2
L
2

In shallow water (s):

Cs gh

Wave energy (density) :

Ls T gh
1
E gH 2
8

L
C

Intermediate-Water Waves
L/20 < d < L/2

um increases as H increases
um increases as T decreases

Shallow-Water Waves
d < L/20

The speed of a shallow water


wave is
controlled only by water depth
Math Note:
sinh (x) = { ex e-x}
for x1 sinh(x) x

Beach Profiles
Shallow beach profiles
These beaches are also known as winter or storm beaches,
with slope angles as low as 0.5, can be up to 100 m, often have
ridge-and-runnel morphology.
Steep beach profiles
Steep beaches are alternatively known as summer or swell
beaches.
Beach angles on steep beaches can be nearly 30.

Steepness is a function of asymmetry.


If sediment is pushed preferentially shoreward, then beach
profile steepens.
Steep beaches reflect asymmetry in sediment transport rate.

Shallow sandy beach

Steep beach

Sources of Asymmetry
Shoaling Transformations
Beach Percolation

Shoaling Transformations

Percolation

Pinet, 1998, Invitation to Oceanography

1
E gH 2
8

The Open University

Percolation
Flow onto beach is more focused than
return flow.
Difference in flow speed causes
difference in sediment transport rate onto
and off of the beach.
Amount of percolation is affected by
grain size
Coarse beaches have lots of
percolation.
Fine-sand beaches have little
percolation.

Percolation

Pethick, 1984, An Introduction to Coastal Geomorphology

(foredune)

Cross shore profile

Berm

Refraction Due to Depth

If a wave is moving in a direction


that is not perpendicular to
bathymetry contours, then the wave
speed will vary along the length of
the wave crest. The section of the
wave over deeper water will move
faster than other parts of the wave.
This causes a turning or refraction
of the wave direction.

Wave refraction towards the


horeline due to depth
ifference

Edge Waves

The minute-to-minute variatio


in the height of breakers pro
duces low-frequency variabilit
y in the along-shore current

Long shore drift

Summary
Wind generated wave is the main force the sediment transport
at the beach
Sediment grains size is fundamental in percolation of water
into then beach sediments, which shapes the beach profile.
Equilibrium beach slope increases with grain size for same H/L:
increase asymmetry due to greater percolation for larger grains.
H/L greater for steeper storm waves: breaks over narrow area,
erodes particles and moves seaward reducing beach slope:
percolation effect is weak and backwash strong.

H/L decreases for long wavelength lower height summer


waves: waves break over larger area, swash is stronger
than backwash due to greater percolation which moves
sediment landward, increasing slope.

Rip Currents

Erosion Threshold
Um vs grain diameter

Erosion Wave Height vs. Water Depth

Change from laminar to turbulent


boundary layer
The Open University

The Open University

Sub-summary-1
Um required to move grain of given size
increases as wave period increases
Large storm waves are able to move
sediment at depth on continental shelf
Many combinations of wave period (T),
water depth (d) and wave height (H) can
move grains of various sizes

Steep Cobble Beach

http://www.stjohnbeachguide.com/information
%20photos/Lind%20Point%20Scramble/cobblebeach.jpg

Sub-SUMMARY-2
Equilibrium beach slope increases with grain
size for same H/L: increase asymmetry due to
greater percolation for larger grains.
H/L greater for steeper storm waves: breaks
over narrow area, erodes particles and moves
seaward reducing beach slope: percolation
effect is weak and backwash strong.
H/L decreases for long wavelength lower
height summer waves: waves break over
larger area, swash is stronger than backwash
due to greater percolation which moves
sediment landward, increasing slope.

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