Spme III

Introduction to Sewing
Machines
History of Sewing Machine

1st machine to be invented was by Charles Wiesenthal in 1755 and used in
mechanical embroidery frames. In 1790 a Thomas Saint invented a
machine for stitching Leather but it was never used. In 1830, a French
Tailor Barthelemy Thimmonier patented a wooden chain stitch
machine. Some of them were used or making army uniforms but were
later destroyed by rioting tailors who were fearful of losing their jobs.
Mean while Walter Hunt 1832 of New York invented an machine with
an eye pointed needle which carried a loop of thread through the cloth.
A 2nd thread was carried in a shuttle that moved to and fro on the other
side of the cloth parsing the loop thus locking it. However this machine
could not be patented.
The credit of inventing the sewing machine goes to Elias Howe in 1845.
This was operated by a hand crank. It sews 200 stitches per minute. Later
Isaac Singer developed the foot treadle that left the hands free. Singer
spent one million dollar a year on sales and promotion and by 1867 was
producing one thousand machines per day. With the foundation of Union
Special Machine Co. in 1881 that sewing machines were used to make
garments on a mass scale. This pared the way for methods of garment
assembly with operations broken down and line assembly methods being
followed. Electrically motored machines were developed only after 1921.
Over the years machines have become more specialized and one
machine was intended for one specific operation.
Classification of Sewing Machines

Classification of Machines used in the Garment Industry
Machines used in the garment industry are for operations such as sewing,
cutting,
finishing and fusing. Therefore the machines can be classified into pre-production,
production and post-production.
Pre-Production Machines are used for cutting, spreading and fusing.
Production Machines are used for sewing.
Post-Production Machines are used for finishing.
Cutting Machines:- Band Knife, Straight Knife, Round Knife, Die-cutter, Automatic
cutters, Servo Cutters ETC & Spreading machines.
Sewing Machines:- There are three main types of sewing machines Lock Stitch,
Overlock & ChainStitch.
Finishing Machines:- Pressing, Thread Sucking, washing, tumble dries, form
finishers,
folding machines, tables, inspection tables, stain removing, brushing and steam
tunnels.
Fusing Machines:- Continuous, Steam and Flat bed machines.
Manually operated SNLS,
semi automatic machines buttonhole ,Automatic
machines
cuffs assembled, engineered work station stackers & material handling system.
Classification of Sewing Machines

On the basis of Sewing Machines
There are three main types of machines are the Lock stitch, Chain stitch and
Overlock
machines
LOCK STITCH (300 Class) gives a straight seam, most secure. Single needle, twin
needle, zigzag, blind hemming, Button hole and Button sewing. ---------------CHAIN STITCH (100 & 400 CLASS) gives a chain effect, looping, it is not as
secure as
the lock stitch or serging. Single needle, twin needle, blind stitch hemming, Button
hole, Button Sewing
OVERLOCK STITCH (500 CLASS) is the same principle as chain stitch. It gives an
edge
principle as well as sews the fabric together ideal for knits as it gives stretch.
OTHER TYPES
SAFETY OVERLOCK: - which is a combination of Overlock and chain stitch.
BLIND STITCH HEMMING MACHINE: - based on chain stitch.
BUTTON MACHINE:- Sews button onto the garments chain stitch.
BUTTON HOLE MACHINE:-is essentially a zigzag lock stitch. Makes a button hole
and
cuts it. May also give chain stitch.
PROGRAMMABLE MACHINE: - where certain operations can be programmed into
the
machine. (Semi Automatic)
Parts of Single Needle Lock Stitch

Machine

Machine

Machine
Sewing Machine Kinematics:

Formation of
Single Needle
Lock Stitch
Interlacing is passing
of a
thread over or around
another thread or loop
of
another thread.
Formation of Single Needle

Lock Stitch
Formation of Single Needle Lock

Stitch
Formation of Single Thread Chain

stitch
Intralooping is passing
of a loop
thread through another
loop
formed by the same
thread.
Stitch formation a Two Thread

Chain Stitch Machine
Stitch Formation
of OverLock
Interlooping is the
passing of a loop of
thread
through
another loop formed
by a different thread.
Important parts of the Single

Needle Lock Stitch Machine
with its Functions
STITCHING ELEMENTS:Mainly consist of

Needles, Shuttles, Bobbins and Loopers.
THREAD CONTROL LINKS:- Thread Take up,
Tension Devices, Thread Guides, Thread
Fingers & Thread Finger Hooks
FEED SYSTEM COMPONENTS:- Throat plates,
Tongues and Chaining Plate, Feed Dog &
Presser foot.
UNDER BED PARTS:- Include mainly the
lubrication system and the machine motors
and power pulleys.
STITCHING ELEMENTS
Mainly consist of Needles, Shuttles, Bobbins and Loopers.
BOBBIN AND BOBBIN CASE, SHUTTLES.

Machines can also be classified accordingly to the use of hooks or loopers.
The bobbin & Bobbin case are used in lockstitch, and in zigzag machine (Shuttle &
Shuttle hooks) i.e. machines which give the 300 class of stitches. 300 class
machines
differ from all the other stitch class machines in one respect i.e. needle thread loop
presses around a mass supply of other thread with which it interlocks to form a
stitch.
This mass supply is carried by a round small metal or cardboard part called bobbin.
Bobbin spool can hold approx. 70 yards of thread. However exact amount varies
with
bobbin size depend on machine type and thread used. Bobbins are enclosed in
bobbin
cases around which the bobbin hook rotates.
FUNCTIONS
BOBBIN: Is to carry the mass thread supply
BOBBIN CASE: is to carry the bobbin. Controls tension in the bobbin thread
BOBBIN HOOK: is to grasps the needle thread at scarf point and carry the loop
of the
needle thread around bobbin case which holds the bobbin and its thread. The
needle thread thus interlocks with the bobbin thread and forms the stitch.
STITCHING ELEMENTS
Bobbin hooks rotate or oscillate. If they oscillate they are referred to as shuttle
hooks
or semi - rotary hook. The part of the motion of the shuttle hook is in the form of a
semi circular vertically mounted. It travels rotating stroke while needle bar travels
one stroke. Suitable for sewing heavy material. But not suited for high speed machine.
The rotary hook rotates in either a Horizontal or Vertical Plane on any side of
the
needle.
Horizontal Axis double rotation hook is fitted to the hook driving shaft. It makes
two revolutions while the needle bar travels a stroke. Found in SNLS machine.
Vertical Axis double rotation hook, this is mounted horizontally to the hook driving
shaft. It also makes two revolutions while the needle bar travels one stroke. This hook
is found in many two needle sewing machines used for heavy weight materials
(Unison feed machine).
Transverse Hooks mounting from the front where the stitching action is
perpendicular to the hook action.
Bobbin cases are two types i.e. Attachable or Detachable
ATTACHABLE are recessed into the bobbin hook of the machine with screws. It permits
the operator to takeout bobbin at will for rethreading or exchange without removing
case. DETACHABLE types are where case is removed along with bobbin for rethreading.
For eg:- SNLS.
STITCHING ELEMENTS
STITCHING
ELEMENTS
LOOPER
Loopers are found in Chain Stitch, Overlock stitching Machines etc. Stitch
formation is different from Lockstitch. Its the loop formation compared with
a sewing machine using a hook, almost unlimited amount of looper thread
can be fed during sewing.
FUNCTION
Is to grasps needle thread or another looper thread as it moves towards
its
pointed end.
There are two types of Loopers:- Blind Looper and Eye Loopers.
BLIND LOOPER do not carry a thread of their own. They only assist in
formation of stitch. Used for 100 class stitches and some 500 class stitches.
EYE LOOPER carries its own thread whose function is to interlock with
the
needle thread and or looper thread. Machines making 400, 600 & 500 class
stitches except 501 use eye loopers. Certain multiple needle machines
which
produce multiple parallel rows of stitching, every needle has its own looper.
Some Blind Looper has a thread groove, looper eye point and eye guide.
Some loopers also have a scarf on the back surface parallel to thread
groove.
STITCHING ELEMENTS
STITCHING
Loopers
can be classified according to
ELEMENTS
their motion cycle as
1) Lower Looper or Prime Looper.
This grasps the needle thread loop
Upper Looper or Secondary Looper
grasps the looper thread. {In the
overlock makes makes right and left
motions.}
2) Double Chain Looper
This looper laterally and longitudinally
oscillates to form the chain.
3) Rotary Looper
It is used for Single thread Chain
stitching using only needle thread.
This looper does not carry a thread of
its own. It only grasps the needle
thread to form the stitch. Found on
Button Attaching machine (Chain
Stitch).
STITCHING
ELEMENTS
LOOP SPREADER
Machines that make 400, 500 and
600 class stitches except 501 have
loop spreader. There are snub nosed
or dull pointed metal pieces which
assists the looper in making the
stitch. Some blind loopers also have
loop spreaders.
The action of the loop spreader is
coordinated with the action of
looper or loopers. Some may be
fastened to the looper mechanism
and have no motion of its own. They
can be more than one loop spreader
in a machine to coordinate with the
motion cycle of the looper.
Function
Of loop spreader is to spread the
needle loop which has been grasps
by the loop.
NEEDLE
PARTS OF THE NEEDLE
Shank upper part of the needle which
fits in to the needle bar. It may be
cylindrical or
flat. Forms a support of the needle and
is larger in diameter than the rest of
the needle.
Shoulder is the part between shank
and blade. Shoulder is short or long
according to
end strength of needle required. Where
shoulder short blade is long, chances of
needle breakage and deflection are
increased. Since needle becomes
slender. When strength is required
shoulder is longer but care should be
taken that it does not reach a point
where needle enters the fabric.
NEEDLE
Blade is the longer part of the needle. It is subjected to great amount of friction,
when needle passes through material. Blade length varies with machine type and
sewing needs. Needles used for high speed machines shoulder is extended into the
upper part of blade having a thicker cross section thus forming a larger hole when
penetrating the fabric it strengthens the needle and also reduces the friction when
needle is withdrawing from the fabric. However blade can also be tapered from top to
tip to reduce friction. Reducing friction is important as the heat produced creates
problems while sewing synthetic fabrics. Blades are subjected to high friction as they
enter and withdraw from fabric with each stitch. The blade consists of Long groove &
short groove. For best seam appearance, use the smallest needle blade possible. This
is not a simple solution, as a small blade has a small eye, which could place stress on
the thread and cause friction. Also, needle strength decreases as the diameter of the
blade decrease.
Long Groove provides a channel for thread so that it can easily pass through the
material reducing friction and abrasion action on the thread. It is important to choose
needles with correctly shaped groove matching the diameter of the thread.
NEEDLE
Short Groove is on the side of the needle that faces the hook or looper. It extends
a little above and below the eye. It assists in formation of needle thread loop.
Eye Shape of the eye on top is important in reducing thread damage and
formation of good loop. Thread passes 20- 30 times through the eye before forming a
stitch. Eye should be free from buns or sharp edges. Eye of the needle is the hole
through which the thread passes. It carries the thread which helps in loop formation.
The size of eye should match the needle thread diameter. Too large a size will not form
the loop and too small a size needle /thread gets damage.
The Scarf or Clearance cut is just above the eye. It enables a closer setting of hook
or looper to the needle. This ensures the loop of the needle thread is easily picked by
the point of the hook or looper. While making the scarf attention should be paid that
its not cut too deep otherwise needle looses strength.
Point of the needle is so shaped to penetrate the fabric without causing damage to
the fabric. Various types of points are available according to the fabric used.
Tip is the extreme end of the needle.
The above features are found in majority of the needle.
THREAD CONTROL LINKS
Thread Take Up
Thread Take Up is one of the Thread Control Links. After the looper or bobbin hook
contacts the needle thread at the scarf point, it pulls a loop of needle thread in order
to make the stitch tie. hence it requires the thread to be free and quick. The thread
take up executes this function. It provides the thread freely to form the loop of the
needle thread during one cycle of its motion and it also pulls the loop after the hook
or looper releases the needle loop to form the stitch tie.
There are two types of thread take ups, the oscillation type and the rotary type.
Oscillation Type.
It is a metal link with an eye at the free end (that carries the thread through it) the
take up oscillates along a straight line or an arc shape path. This path must be a
minimum of approximately 1 in length. Some auxiliary regulators with eye guides
resemble thread take ups but their motion path is too limited to perform the function
of the thread take up. Eg. SNLS
Rotary Type
This type has a rotary action cycle. The action cycle of the thread take up are
synchronization with the needle action. E.g. Single Needle Zig zag machine.

Tension Device.
Tension Device is also a Thread Control Link. The process of making stitches requires a
smooth and well regulated flow of thread. This concept of providing thread in a well
controlled manner necessitates the use of tension devices. There are two types of link
systems used for thread tensions Direct & Indirect
Direct & Indirect has 2 pressure discs, tension spring, thumb nut pressure control,
tension mounting bar and pressure release unit. Thumb nut can be adjusted to control
the ease with which thread passes between the disks.
The Indirect Device has another component, the tension wheel. In Indirect
tension
device the two pressure disc, the tension spring and the thumb nut are mounted in
that
order.
The thread must be guided between the tension discs, so that the thread is
constantly pressing against the tension bar as the machine stitches. A change in
position
between the pressure disc changes tension on the thread. This change on the pressure
disc can be achieved by the thumb nut which presses against the outer disc.
In stitch formation too much tension may cause thread breakage or puckered
seams,
too little tension allows slackness & excessive looping and loose stitches that will not
hold. Tension needs to be adjusted when thread, fabric, and/or needles are changed.
THREAD
The
Direct Devices.
CONTROL
It is found on most of the 300 class
stitch types. These tension devices also
LINKS
have check spring as an auxiliary thread
tension regulator. The check spring acts

as a shock absorber for the thread to
compensate
tension
fluctuation
in
needle. It is shaped in the form of a hook
and thread is passed through its eye
after they leave the tension discs. Some
400, 500 and 600 class stitches also
require auxiliary placed next to the main
tension devices. They may be placed
between the main device and the needle
or looper eye. These auxiliary tension
devices maybe found under the bed of
the machine. The two i.e. Main and
Auxiliary can be easily differentiated in
terms of size. Auxilliary being smaller in
size and pressure strength.
Main
Tension Device has a thumb nut control
which is not found in the auxiliary.
Pressure can be changed only by use of
a screw driver on slot headed screw
driver.
Thread Guides
Thread Guides are also Thread Control
Links. Thread Guides control the
positioning and movement of thread.
Damage or faulty thread guides can
damage sewing threads and cause
thread breakage and weak seams.
All 3 types of thread control devices
must provide a precisely controlled
flow of thread to mechanical links
making the stitches.
Guides are placed all along the path
the thread follows to insure a uniform
flow. Guides are found on the machine
head after thread leaves the thread
spool, between tension devices, the
take up and needle, looper or thread
finger.
A uniform flow of thread ensures
uniform stitches. Guides are made in
various forms such as eye, hook,
spring, tube, groove etc.
THREAD
CONTROL
LINKS
Thread Fingers
Threading
fingers
are stitching mechanisms
And
Thread
which are used only for 600 class of stitches.
They function above the presser foot shoe
Finger
Hooks
and next to the needle.
It is a metal link with
an eye. This link can be Static or Dynamic.
Static links guide the covering thread where
as Dynamic link carries the covering thread
of the 600 class stitch. This does not apply
to 601 which does not have a cover thread.
Dynamic link carries the covering thread
back and forth across the needle path as the
needle moves up and down.
The Thread Finger Hook coordinates with
thread finger while the thread finger is
synchronizing with the needles. The hook
assists the finger in interlacing its threads
between or among the threads of two or
more needle s in the machine.
A static thread finger always requires a
dynamic thread finger hook to carry the
cover thread back and forth across the paths
of the needles
FEED SYSTEM
COMPONENTS
FEED
SYSTEM COMPONENTS
Throat plates, Tongues and Chaining
Plate, Feed Dog & Presser foot.
Throat Plate
Throat Plate is also a Feed System
Component. They are removable
metal plates attached by screws to
the bed of the machine. They provide
a smooth surface for the material to
pass over. They have slots to
accommodate the movement of the
feeddog and hole for the needle.
Needle slot will also accommodate the
sewing needle action such as that of a
zig zag needle.
FEED SYSTEM
COMPONENTS
The throat plate acts as a support for
the material also. It is very important
for the needle slot to be of the right
size, too large a needle slot leads to
flagging of the fabric i.e. the fabric is
carried down as the needle penetrates
and rises up as the needle moves up.
Flagging affects the stitching quality.
The needle hole should be only about
30% larger than size of needle. Most
throat plates are made of one solid link.
Some have sections to permit the
throat plate to be changed. Throat
plates vary in shape and size according
to
machine
types
and
specific
functions. No and size of throat plate
openings vary with no., size and action
of needles and no and location of feeds.
FEED SYSTEM
COMPONENTS
Tongues or Chaining Plates
These are metal structures on the
throat plate and or presser foot
which the needles or loopers require
to assist in forming certain stitch
types. They control the bight of the
overlock stitch.
Tongue
It is a metal form around which
chain structure is made. It is found in
500 and some 400 class stitches. The
tongues can be made in various
lengths and thickness in order to
vary width and thickness of 500 class
stitches.
The
tongue
can
be
connected to the throat plate or
presser foot. Throat plate tongue
could be an extension of throat plate.
FEED SYSTEM
COMPONENTS
Presser foot tongue either extension of
presser foot sole or independent links
which are attached to presser foot by
screws. Such an arrangement permits
one to change tongues without
changing the presser foot. Chaining
plates perform the same function as
the tongue. They could also be
attached to throat plate by a screw or
a single unit. These are also used in
making all 600 types and some 400
class of stitches.
Any stitch that has three dimensional
structure requires a tongue or chaining
plate device on which the stitch can be
moulded they have an open end to
permit stitch chain to be cleared off
when the fabric is moved forward.
Chaining plates and tongues are static
structures. They have no motion cycle.
FEED SYSTEM
Presser Foot
COMPONENTS
Presser foot is a Feed System
Component. The
function of the presser foot is to exert pressure to
the fabric for the top so that the fabric does not flag
and does not get displaced during the sewing cycle.
The presser foot is attached to the presser bar
which in turn is in contact with springs. The spring
compression is controlled by a thumb screw nut
which is used to adjust presser foot pressure.
The section that contacts the fabric is the shoe. The
lower surface of the shoe is the sole. The amount of
pressure can be adjusted for stitching speed and
fabric type and weight. Flagging can be avoided by
more pressure and smaller needle hole.
The toe is the front portion not contacting the
sewed surface is responsible for holding guiding
and positioning the unsown fabric. The heel is the
back portion which holds the fabric and retains its
position for feeding and stitching action to take
place. Soles are very smooth surfaces. But can be
toothed or channeled depending on the application.
FEED SYSTEM
The
presser
foot
has
COMPONENTS
a
hinge
compensation or elevator compensation
action or combination of both. The former
is the action of tilting the sole plane. The
latter is raising the entire shoe up and
down. Both these actions occur when
fabric of unequal thickness passes
through it. Side elevator compensation is
the raising of one of the two shoes where
presser foot has two shoes.
Various types of presser feet are
available for various special operations
e.g. Hinged Foot, compensating Foot,
Piping Foot, Zipper, Teflon, cording,
hemming etc.
Each area of Presser foot has various
applications e.g. short toes for stitching
curves, long toes for straight seams,
channeled soles for fitting over bulky
lapped seam.
FEED SYSTEM
Feed
Dog
COMPONENTS
Feed Dog is a Feeding Component. The

purpose of the feed dog is to move the
fabric forward a pre determined distance
to allow successive penetrations of the
needle.
The distance the work travels
forward between each penetration is called
the stitch length. This is controlled by
means of the stitch regulator
The feed dog consists of a toothed surface
which rises through the opening of the
throat plate, engaging the under surface of
the fabric, moving it forward and drops
away below the throat plate to continue its
cycle. The motion of the needle is
synchronized with the feed dog in such a
manner that the feed dog feeds the fabric
only when the needle is out of the fabric.
The feed dog has an elliptical motion cycle.
FEED SYSTEM
Feed
dog is available in various
COMPONENTS
configurations depending on its use in
stitching different materials and stitch
types. Variations are tooth height, shape,
angle, width, number of rows, number of
teeth and placement of rows.
Performance would also depend on
amount of pressure. Wrong combo of feed
dog, and amount of pressure can cause
skip stitches, uneven stitching and can
damage the fabric.
A single row feed dog has only a small
area to grip the fabric therefore the fabric
slips to the right or left instead of passing
straight. A normal lockstitch machine has
feed dogs both, to the left and right of the
needle. In an overlock machine, feed dog
is usually to left of the needle drop point,
because it trims and sews the fabric to the
right of the needle and because there is a
chaining off finger on the throat plate over
which the stitch is formed.
FEED SYSTEM
The teeth on the surface of the feed
COMPONENTS
dog can be of different types and
sizes. Tooth Pitch is the distance
between the peaks of adjacent tooth.
Teeth per inch (tpi) is the number of
teeth in a feed dog/inch. For sewing
of light to medium weight fabrics the
tooth pitch is 1.3 1.6 mm is normal.
On very light weight fabrics, sagging
can occur between the teeth and
pucker can appear after sewing. Fine
toothed feed dogs with a pitch of only
1.0 to 1.25 mm can be used to
prevent this On heavy weight fabrics,
a certain amount of sagging is
required for satisfactory feeding in
order to keep both plies together. In
this case, coarser feed dogs of 2.5
mm tooth pitch are needed.
FEED SYSTEM COMPONENTS

Sometimes despite this, feed dog can cause damage to the fabric
while sewing. In this case, rubber coated feed dog can be used.
However these wear-out faster.
The motion cycle of feed dogs can largely vary to attain better
and uniform sewing by using various feed system
UNDERBED PARTS
Lubricating System
Under Bed parts include mainly the lubrication system and the machine motors and
power pulleys.
Importance is to reduce friction and heat that maybe generated by the link actions.
A lubricant is a gas, liquid or solid, placed between two mechanical links. Four
major types of lubricants are animal, vegetable, mineral and synthetic. Mineral oils
are
used for sewing machines. Greases are the most popular solids used. Higher speed
of
the machine requires greater supply of lubricants.
The important characteristics for sewing machine lubricants are oiliness,
viscosity,
flash point, volatility, and pour test. Viscosity is the rate of fluidity at a given
temperature. Pour test is the lowest temperature of flow. Oiliness is the degree of
friction a lubricant possesses with a given viscosity. Flash point is the lowest
temperature with which lubricant vapors ignite. Volatility is the rate at which the
lubricant vaporizes with given heat.
UNDERBED PARTS
Types of lubrication systems:

Mechanical Application or Manual
The manual application require that operators or maintenance technicians oil
machines on a regular lubrication system, to prevent oil splatters and garment
stains.
It is the system of applying oil from an oil can directly to the link. e.g. domestic
sewing
machines.
Wick Application
In the wick system, the link receives its oil from a contacting wick. The wick
receives its oil from a manual application or reservoir.
Gravity Drip
In the gravity drip, the reservoir has a spigot device. The spigot can be
regulated to
give any drip rate required. The higher the machine rpm the greater the drip rate.
This
drip rate may be increased if changes in working conditions require increased
lubrication. Most gravity drip reservoirs are transparent and easily seen by the
operator.
UNDERBED PARTS
Automatic Systems.
In an automatic system the casting provides a reservoir for oil, and a
pump force feeds
the oil to appropriate parts. In recent years automatic, forced
lubrication systems and
oil filters have become standard equipment on most basic machines,
and the amount
of downtime required for maintenance has been greatly reduced.
With an automatic
lubrication system, an operator only needs to check the lubricant
level gauge.
Sewing Machine Motors:They are of two basic types

1) Clutch Motors
2) Continuous Running Motors
Both types are activated by either a push button or a toggle switch control.
The Continuous Motor is used for stop motion sewing machines that do a specific
number of stitches in a certain pattern. Eg. Buttonholes, button sewing and bartacks.
When the motor is activated, the motors pulley rotates the belt. The belt idles on an idler
pulley which is adjacent to the sewing machine power pulley. The operation is performed
when the stitching machine power pulley rotates and runs the swing machine i.e. the
rotating belt idling on the idler pulley is switched on to the sewing machine power pulley
using the foot paddle. After the operation is completed, the rotating belt is switched back
automatically to its original position until switched on back to the stitching machine power
pulley.
Continuous Running Motors perform every operation at the same speed, depending on
the motor rpm and diameter ratio between the motor pulley and the sewing machine
power pulley.
A clutch motor does not activate the sewing machines power belt when the motor is
activated by the push button or toggle switch. The power pulley of the clutch motor is
activated only when the foot treadle is pressed. Many clutch motors are made with
following variations:
Sewing Machine Motors:1) Variable Speed Control (Regulates the power pulleys RPM, without
changing the
diametric ratio between motor power pulley and stitching machine
power pulley)
2) Needle position control
3) Automatic thread cutting Control
4) Stitch Programming.
Every motor has an attached name plate listing the following
information besides the
Makers Name, Model No:- an d motor Sr. No.
1) Motors Horse Power 2) Electrical Voltage to be used. 3) Electrical
Phase and cycle
needed, 4) Amperes used, 5) Motor RPM
Generally Industrial Sewing Machine motors are in and Hp.
Electrical phase is 3
phase or single phase with 50 or 60 cycle and voltage is 220 or 110.
Power
The pulley diameter is an important factor in speed
and power efficiency. The speed of the stitching
Pulley
machine is controlled by ratio between the power
pulley diameter and motor pulley diameter.
M/c pulley speed = Motor pulley speed * motor pulley
diameter
Machine pulley diameter
Seams & Classification

For purpose of standardization of stitch and seam formations, the US government
developed a guide that defines stitches and seams in current use. The United
States
Federal Stitch and Seam Specifications (Federal Standard 751a) were
adopted in
1965, revised in 1983, and most recently replaced by ASTM D 6139, Standards
Related to Stitches and Seams. ASTM anticipates that these standards are
used
internationally by the apparel industry. Currently these standards are used by
sewing
machine manufactures, apparel manufactures, and the US government to classify
stitches, seams and stitching.
The Standards Related to Stitches and Seams includes line drawings of all stitches
and
seams that are easy to recognize and without language barriers.
ASTM Standard which is the basis of stitch classes identifies four seam classes and
two
stitching classes.
Seam Definition
A seam is a line where two or more fabrics are joined. It is a joint consisting of a
sequence of stitches joining two or more plies of fabric and is used for assembling
parts in the production of sewn parts.
Seam Dimensions
Seams have three dimensions, length, width, and depth
Seam Length
It is the total distance covered by a continuous series of stitches, such as a side seam
or shoulder seam. It is determined by the garment size and design. Exact
measurement of seam length is used for costing, calculating thread usage, writing
specifications and monitoring quality standards.
Seam Width
Seam width considerations are width of a seam allowance, stitch width relative to the
seam, and the seam heading of a lapped or top stitched seam.
Seam Depth
Seam depth is the thickness or compressibility (flatness) of a seam. Seam depth is
affected by fabric weight, fabrication, and selection of seam type. For e.g. seam of
overlapping layers may be thicker and bulkier but more durable than pressed open.
Seams
&
Classification
Seam Allowance
Seam Allowance is measured from the cut edge of fabric to the main line of stitches.
This is the amount of fabric extends beyond the actual seam line. Width of a seam
allowance is often a factor in judging garment quality, reducing yarn slippage, and
providing fabric for alterations. A wider line of stitches has more holding power and
strength than a narrow line of stitches. Wider seam allowance may increase costs
because of the fabric required. They may also need to be serged before seaming to
prevent raveling.
Seam Heading
Seam heading is the distance from the folded edge of the top ply to the first line of
stitches. On a patch pocket, the seam heading would be the distance between the
stitches and the folded edge of the pocket. A header reduces the strain on the cut
edge of fabric and makes the seam stronger.
The Width of the stitches
It is relative to the seam varies with stitch type. The wider the line of stitches, the
more holding power and strength the stitches have, the stronger the seam is. Seam
width is the distance between the outer most line of stitches as determined by the
space the needles on the needle bar. It is also called as gauge. The gauge for two
needle cover stitch may be , 3/16.
Seams
&
Seams can be classified mainly into four
categories
as per Federal Standards on the
Classification
basis of position of pieces relative to each
other at function where they are sewn.
Seam
Class
SS
Superimposed
Seam
Seam Class
LS
Lapped Seam
Seam Class
BS
Bound Seam
Seam Class
FS
Flat Seam
The above classifications are also found in
British Standards. Besides the above four,
there are additional four classes.
Seams are indicated in various ways.
Some of the ways in representing seams
are
Indicates Needle Penetration
pic i
Needle does not pass through the fabric

pic ii

Seams are designated with a number. It consists of two capital
letters, one and two
small letters and a number indicating the no. of stitches. For e.g.
Superimpose Seam
with one stitch is written as SSa-1 stitch type. However , most
important than
remembering the numerical designation is the ability to relate
diagram to existing
possible garments, the purpose of considering suitability of the seam
for its purpose
and machinery that would be used in its construction.
Class 1 Superimpose
Seam
Class 1 Superimpose Seam

There are 57 seam types. The simplest is by Superimposing the edge of the material
on the other. Any stitch type can be used for joining the fabric or neatening the
edges
or both.
All diagram show final version of the seams. However from the diagrams it is
clear
about the position of the needles and folding of fabric. Also it is clear from the seam
diagram whether the same seam is made in more than one step or made in one
operation using the folder and or multi needle machine. The seams could be used
for
side seams of skirts and blouses depending on fabric choices and quality level.
An example of this seam is the type of superimposed seam known as French
Seam,
which is done in two stages or in one operation.
Another example of this seam is with an additional component would be on e
that
contained an inserted piping, and even here more than one construction is possible.
Class 1 Superimpose
Seam
Class 2 Lapped Seam

There are 101 seam types. The
simplest seam type in this class is
formed by lapping two pieces of
material. In lapped seam overlapping
of fabric as at needle point. It is not
common in clothing because it causes
problem with raw edges and at least
one of the edges must be neatened in
a decorative manner. It is commonly
used in joining of panels in sails
where a strong seam is achieved by
using two or three rows of zig zag
stitching. Sail fabrics are very finely
woven & fray very little.
Lapped Seams are used to
reduce the amount of bulk, other are
selected because of the durability
they provide or the appearance they
contribute.
It is used for attaching front bands to

shirts, setting pockets, side seams of
quality dress shirts, side seams or
inseams of jeans. The type of raised,
topstitched seam often used down
skirt panels is also technically a
lapped seam. It is often referred to as
a welted or raised and welted seam.
Another type of Lapped Seam
is Flat and felled. It is stitched with
two rows of stitches on a twin needle
machine equipped with a folder
device. This provides a very strong
seam in garments that will take a lot
of wear.
Lapped seams may be sewn with a
lock stitch or chain stitch but not with
an overedge stitch.
Class 3 Bound
Seam
Class 3 Bound Seam
There are 18 seam types. It is
formed by sewing one piece of
fabric or binding as it
encompasses the edge of one or
more pieces of fabric. A bound
seam is often used as a decorative
edge and the binding may
continue off the edge of the
garment to provide toe ends.
These seams are used to finish
edges of garments or components.
It is mostly used on Necklines,
short sleeves on some styles of Tshirts, and sleeveless tops may be
finished with a binding. It is also
commonly used on underwear and
leisure wear and on skirts, jeans
and ladies trousers.
Class 3 Bound Seam
On all these seams, a stitch type would be used which has two
needles and
incorporate a thread passing between the needle threads on the
underside and
covering the raw edge of the fabric. Self fabric in the same color or
another color is
usually cut into strips for the bindings and the fabrics are normally
knitted. In an
waistband, usually with an interlining fused to it, it is bound onto top
of a skirt, jeans
or trousers using a folder and twin needle machine.
Bound seams may be sewn with a lock stitch, chain stitch, or

cover stitch.
They would be never be sewn with an overedge stitch as the knife
would cut off the
binding.
Class
4 Flat Seam
Class 4 Flat Seam
It is the smallest class with only 6
different types. Seams are referred
as flat seam because the fabric
edges do not overlap. They may be
butted together without a gap and
joined across by a stitch which has
two needles sewing into each
fabric
and
covering
threads
passing back and forth between
these two needle s on both sides of
the fabric. The stitches used are
from 600 class and are wide due to
number of needles used.
Stitches extend across the
seam, holding both pieces together
and covering the seam on one or
both
sides.
Flat
seams
are
constructed to remain flat through
care and wear. They are commonly
used for seams of sweatshirts,
lingerie, and underwear.
Class 4 Flat Seam

Knitted
fabrics
are
most
commonly used because the
advantage of this seam is that
it provides a join that is free
from bulk in garments worn
close to the skin such as
knitted
underwear.
The
machine trims both fabric
edges so that they form a neat
join. Alternatively, various zigzag stitches could sew back
and forth between the fabrics
which might then have a
decorative gap between them.
Class 5 Ornamental
Stitching/Decorative
Stitching
Class
5
Ornamental
Stitching/Decorative Stitching
The next two classes of seams are
classified in the Federal Standards
as stitching and not Seams.
This is the first of the two classes
of seam which were not regarded
as seams. Decorative stitching is
also
called
as
Ornamental
Stitching.
The main use of the seam is for
decorative sewing on garment
where single or multiple rows of
stitches are sewn through one or
more layers of fabric. It can be
done
anywhere
on
garment
except the edge. Ornamental
stitching
includes
decorative
stitching
on
jeans
pocket,
embroidered logos, and pintucks
down the front of a shirt.
Class 6 Edge Finishing

/Edge Neatening
Class 6 Edge Finishing /Edge
Neatening
This is the other seam class that was
called a stitching. Seam types in this
class include those where fabric edges
are neatened by means of stitches as
well as folded hems and edges.
The simplest is the fabric edge
inside a garment which has been
neatened with an overedge stitch,
Blind hemming, different types hems,
on the sleeves and lower edges of
garments.
Edge Finishing is stitching that
encompasses a cut edge or provides a
finish for a single ply of fabric with a
folded configuration. Stitches from
any of the classes may be used
depending on the type of fold and
placement of the stitching.
The remaining two seam classes in the 1991 British Standard are an
additional to
the original standard, added in the 1983 edition, to include seam types
commonly
seen in modern garment construction. No general descriptive title has been
given to
either of them.
Class 7
Seams in this class are formed by the addition of separate items to the edge
of a
garment part. The seams are similar to lapped seam except that the added
component
has a definite edge on both sides. For e.g.:- band of lace attached to the lower
edge of
a slip, elastic braid on the edge of a bra and inserted elastic on the leg of a
swimsuit,
and the shirt placket where an additional self fabric piece is joined to the body
along
with interlining.
Class 7
Class 8
Class 8
In this seam type as per British
standards where only one piece
of material need be involved in
constructing the seam. The
common seam type in this class
is the belt loops used on jeans
Construction
of
belt
loops is done by stitch type class
406 which gives a bottom cover
thread to neaten the raw edges
on the bottom side and two rows
of stitching on the top side. The
other way of making the loop is
by special machine attachments
& the quickest and cheapest
way of making the loop is while
attaching the waistband and the
belt loops together.
Seam quality issues

1. Puckering
2. Seam grin
3. Seam slippage
4. Skipped stitches
5. Unbalanced stitches
6. Uneven SPI
Skipped Stitches
Causes
Solutions
Failure of hook, looper, or needle to enter

the thread loop at correct time
Check machines clearances and timing.

Check needle is inserted and aligned correctly
Use needle with deeper scarf.
Thread loop failure
Change needle size/style

Check thread take-up and check loop formation
Flagging of fabric due to poor presser foot

control or too large a throat plate hole
Adjust presser foot pressure

Change throatplate to match needle
Needle deflections or bent needles
Use a reinforced needle

Check needle clearance and reset needle guard
Incorrect sewing tension in needle or under

thread
Adjust thread tension
Poor loop formation
Check loop formation

Verify thread selection
Check thread twist and thickness
Staggered Stitches
Causes
Solutions
Needle vibrating or deflecting
Increase needle size

Use reinforced needle
Incorrect or blunt needle point
Change needle
Incorrect needle-to-thread size relationship
Change needle thread size to appropriate size
Feed dog sways
Tighten feed dog
Poor fabric control and presser foot bounce
Adjust presser foot pressure

Change feed mechanism
Unbalanced or Variable Stitches

Causes
Solutions
Incorrect sewing tensions
Adjust top or bottom thread tension as

necessary for balanced stitches
Incorrect threading
Check for correct thread path
Needle thread snagging on bobbin case or

positioning finger
Variable thread tension
Polish bobbin case and thread contact surfaces

Reset positioning finger
Change throatplate to match needle
Check for correct thread path
Make sure check spring is properly set
Check thread lube consistency
Variable Stitch Density

Causes
Poor fabric feed control
Solutions
Increase presser foot pressure
Change to a more positive feed mechanism
Seam Grin
When two pieces of fabric are pulled at right angles to the
seam, a gap is revealed between the two pieces of fabric

revealing the thread in this gap.
Corrective actions
Increase stitching tensions
Use a higher stitch rating
Seam Slippage
A fabric related issue.
Happens mainly in 2 types of fabrics :
fabrics with low no. of warp & weft yarns.
fabrics where C.F. yarns are used in the

weave.
The fabric on either side of the seam

distorts as the fabric yarns slide away
resulting in a permanent gap.
Corrective Actions
Increase seam allowance
Use a higher stitch density
Opt for a lapped fell seam
Seam Pucker
Tension pucker
Feed pucker
Shrinkage pucker
Inherent pucker
Fabric flagging
Tension Pucker
Caused by high thread tension during sewing.
More pronounced when synthetic threads are used.
These threads on account of high stretch
properties elongate more during sewing.

After sewing the threads recover from the stretched
state pulling the fabric with it.
Remedy:
Thread tensions have to be kept as
low as possible.
Feed Pucker
Encountered when sewing very fine fabrics.
The plies of fabric tend to slip over each other
resulting in uneven feed leading to pucker.
Remedy :
Opting for advanced types of feed
systems like compound or unison feed.
Puller feed is more cost effective.
Shrinkage Pucker
Wash pucker - during the wash process the thread in the seam
shrinks, pulling the fabric with it. More so when using cotton
threads.
Ironing pucker - normally happens when synthetic threads are
used. The heat destabilizes the molecular structure of the
thread causing it to contract.
Remedy
Choosing threads with low shrinkage properties.
Inherent Pucker
Normally seen when sewing densely woven materials.
This occurs because the needle forcibly displaces the
warp & weft ends of the dense weave to a significant

extent.
These displaced ends are pushed upwards to the
surface of the fabric and appear as pucker.
This is also know as 'STRUCTURAL JAMMING'
Remedy
Opting for finer needles & threads
Opt for a chain stitch in place of a lock
stitch
Reduce stitch density
Biased stitching
Fabric Flagging
A machine related issue
the throat plate aperture enlarges due to wear & tear

while sewing the needle pushes the fabric through the
aperture before penetrating the fabric

this can also happen when the needle size (thickness) is
changed and if the throat plate is not changed accordingly.
Remedy
throat plates must be changed at regular intervals
after checking for wear & tear
throat plates must be changed in accordance with the
needle size even if there are no signs of wear & tear.
Needle Size
Throat plate
aperture size
- Nm 60 65
- Nm 100 120
70
120
80 90 100 110 120

140 160 160 200 200
Seam Puckering
Puckering is a corrugated sewing line whose finished sewed length is
equal to, or
more, its original cut length. It is often confused with gathering.
Puckering is caused by the stitching action, feed action, or both. It is
actually the result
of a ratio resulting from the integration of the following dimensions
and
characteristics 1) yarn count, 2) yarn diameter, 3) yarn tension, 4)
thread diameter,
5) thread elasticity, 6) stitch size, 7) stitch tension, 8) needle
diameter, 9) needle
contact velocity, 10) feed tooth dimension and feed velocity.
Four probable causes of seam pucker are as follows:-
Feed Pucker
Feed Pucker is due to the resistance or drag of the presser foot on the top ply, as two
plies of fabric are sewn together. If the fabric on the bottom is fed more rapidly than
the top ply, the bottom fabric puckers. Use of top feeding device may be one
resolution to the problem. A top-feeding mechanism that moves the top ply of fabric
through the stitching process at approximately the same rate as the bottom feed
eliminates much of the resistance on the top ply. Differential stretching of the two
plies being sewn may also cause only one side of a seam to pucker. This might occur
when braid or, trim is sewn to a blouse or jacket. If one piece has a greater degree of
bias, it will be more susceptible to stretch.
Seam Grin
It is a separation of a sewn seam as a result of transverse stress that allows the
stitches and thread to show. It is a condition that is likely to occur with a low stitch
count, insufficient tension on threads, or improper stitch and seam selection. It affects
both the aesthetics and performance.
Tension Pucker
It may be caused by too much tension on the sewing thread, which causes
the thread
to elongate as stitches are formed. Tight tension setting on upper or lower
threads
during stitching or bobbin winding, or damaged thread guides, may be
causes. Tension
pucker is primarily a problem with synthetic thread, which has greater
elongation
capabilities than other thread. As the thread relaxes it can cause the fabric to
draw
together and pucker. Thread that is poor quality or the wrong size or type and
incorrect settings are other probable causes of tension pucker. Tension pucker
may be
eliminated with properly adjusted machines and use of consistent quality
thread. Fine
threads and well lubricated threads can be sewn with light tension due to its
looped
formation.
Displacement Pucker of Jamming

This is due to yarn displacement and crowding as the needle and thread pass through
the fabric. Yarns are pushed together as threads forms stitches in the fabric.
Displacement pucker is most common on high count fabrics with long seams cut
parallel to warp yarns. The tendency of jamming increases with more stitches per inch,
higher count fabrics, finer fabrics, and thicker sewing threads. Possible solutions for
jamming are the use of a two thread chain stitch instead of a lock stitch machine.
Other solutions include use of finer sewing threads and a smaller needle, fewer
stitches per inch, and cutting adjoining garment pieces with a slight degree of bias so
there is more room for yarn displacement.
Moisture Pucker
It is not the result of the sewing process, but one of concern to the lasting appearance
of a garment. Moisture pucker is due to differential shrinkage of the shell fabric,
thread, or other attached materials such as trims and interlinings. Differential
shrinkage of components may be avoided by early product testing during the
development stage to make sure all materials are compatible during sewing and care.
STITCH CLASSIFICATIONS
STITCH CLASSIFICATIONS:There are two standards that give stitch classifications namely British Standard
3870
pant1:1991: classification and terminology of stitch types and the United States
Federal Standard No 751 A which was the first classified in March 1926. This was
followed by revision in 1930, 1959, 1965, 1983 and now replaced by ASTM D
6139
standards. These classification classify seams and stitches into various classes.
As per British Standards a STITCH is defined as one unit of conformation

resulting
from one or more strands or loops of threads intralooping, interloping interlacing
or
passing into or through the material.
A series of recurring stitches one configuration is defined as stitch type.
The difference between the two stitch classification standards is that the
British
system has total six classifications whereas Federal standard has 700
classifications.
Intralooping is passing of a loop thread

through another loop formed by the same
thread.
Interlooping is the passing of a loop of thread
through another loop formed by a different
thread.
Interlacing is passing of a thread over or
around another thread or loop of another
thread.
The major classes of stitches are
Class 100 : Chain stitch
Class 200 : Stitches originated by hand stitches
Class 300 : Lockstitch
Class 400 : Multi thread Chain stitches
Class 500 : Overedge Chain stitch
Class 600 : Covering Chain stitch
Besides the above is the
Class 700 : Single thread stitch
Class
100 : Chain
Class 100 : Chain stitches
The stitch type is formed from one or more
stitches
needle threads and is characterized by
intralooping. One or more loops of thread
are passed through the material and
secured by intralooping with a succeeding
loop or loops after they are passed
through the material. Since each loop is in
this way dependent on the succeeding
one, stitches in this class are insecure and
if the finishing end of thread is not passed
through the last loop or separately
through the fabric, or if a stitch is broken,
it unravels very easily. The single thread
chain stitch is an intralooping formation
that can be recognized by a flat straight
thread formation similar in appearance to
the lock stitch on the face of the fabric
and a loop on the underside. The needle
carries the thread through the fabric and
the looper holds the thread and forms a
loop for the needle thread to enter as it
descends for the next stitch.

Stitch class includes stitch types 101, 102,
103, 104 and 105.The more widely used
stitch types in this class are the single
thread chain stitch 101, single thread blind
stitch 103, and saddle stitch 104. Each
stitch type in this class requires a special
machine to form the stitches.
The 101 chain stitch is frequently used for
closing bags of sugar and pet food. As the
stitch is in secured it can be removed easily
and hence it used for basting operations in
tailored menswear and womens wear.
Temporary stitching of edges, flaps, collar
can be done before it is stitched
permanently. Other uses of the 101 stitch
include shirring, attaching paper tags,
buttons, and sewing some types of button
holes. If elastic thread is used in the
needles, and sewn in garment features
such as elasticated waist and cuffs to be
created. Multi needle elastication can be
done using elastic thread.
The 103 chain stitch is one of several types of blind stitches used
for machine
hemming. Blind stitches form on the fabric surface but do not
penetrate to the face of
the fabric when stitch depth is properly adjusted. The 103 stitch type
is formed by
blind stitch machine that uses a curved needle. 1Needle, 1 Thread,
1Blind Looper.
Machine saddle stitching 104 is used primarily for ornamental

stitching often
found on western wear or to stitch down a series of release pleats
that may be used
on pleated skirts.
CLASS 200:
HANDSTITCH
CLASS 200: HANDSTITCH
The stitch types in this class originated as
hand stitches and are characterized by a
single thread which is passed through the
material as a single line of thread, and
stitch is secured by the single line of
thread passing in and out of the material.
These stitches are used to achieve
perfect finishes in high fashion garment.
Stitch class 200 includes stitch types 201,
202, 203, 204 and 205. Stitch class 200
consists of stitch formations done by
hand with a single strand of thread with
the exception of 205.
Stitch class 205 was added with the last
revision of Federal Standard and stitch
class 209 as per British Standards
because it simulates a hand running
stitch formed by a special machine.
CLASS 200: HANDSTITCH
Stitch type 205 is used occasionally on the front edges of mens

jackets and coats
for aesthetic purpose. This is referred as pick stitching. The term pick
and saddle
are used to describe certain stitches the pick stitches are once in
which the exposed
thread lengths are very small (dot) and saddle stitch are longer. A
double pointed
center eyed needle is used.
Class 200 stitches are used most on lined jackets and tailored
garments. The
machine is not as fast as lock stitch machine but faster than hand
stitching and
consistent in quality.
CLASS 300: LOCKSTITCH

The stitch types in the class are formed
with two or more groups of threads, by
interlacing of the two or more groups.
One group of thread is the needle thread
and other group of thread is bobbin
thread. As the threads interlace stitches
of this class are very secured and
difficult to unravel.
The most common of these class and
most widely used is 301 it is also
referred as plain stitch or straight stitch.
It has the same appearance on both
sides. It is the only stitch formation that
can be backtacking if the ends of a seam
need to be secured. It is a poor choice in
areas that need to stretch as it has the
least amount of elongation potential. It
is used for topstitching of collars and
cuffs and fronts of a jackets.

Stitch type 304, 308 and 315 are
the zigzags. 304 is the traditional
one stitch zigzag that is used to
sew appliqus, attach lace on
lingerie, and produce faggotting.
Faggotting is a decorative stitching
used to connect two pieces of fabric
but allowing space between the
pieces.
Stitch type 308 and 315 are two
and three successive stitches which
form a longer and wider zigzag by
using several stitches to attach
elastics.
CLASS 400 MULTITHREAD CHAIN

STITCH
STITCH
The stitch types in this class are formed with two or more groups of threads, and
have for a general characteristic the interloping of the two groups. Loops of one
group
of threads are passed through the material and are secured by interlacing and
interlooping with loops of another group. One group of threads is needle thread and
the other group is looper thread.
Stitch class includes stitch types 401, 402, 403, 404, 405, 406, and 407.
The most common stitch types in this class are the two thread straight line chain
stitch 401. It has a appearance of lockstitch on top and a double chain stitch effect
formed by the looper thread on the underside. This stitch does not cause pucker as
the threads do not interlock between the fabric plies as found in class 300. Both the
threads are supplied by large packages therefore frequent changes are not required.
It
is used on long seams such as trousers. This stitch is often used in combination with
an
overedge stitch for economical production where joining of the seam as well as neat
edges can be achieved in one operation.

Stitch type 402 it is cording stitch.
It is primarily for stitching permanent creases. It
STITCH
uses 2 needle and bottom looper creating a ridge/crease, it is found in sportswear

and
back of gloves.
Stitch type 404 is more elastic than 401. It was designed for use by mens slacks
to
attach makers to attach curtain to the inside of the waistband. This stitch is used for
infant wear and children wear. Modifications of this stitch type are also used for
ornamental stitching such as some types of faggotting and picot edges. It is similar to
304 except that it is formed as a chain stitch.
Stitch types 406 and 407 are known as bottom cover stitches. They are used to
cover seams or unfinished edges on the inside of garments and to keep them flat.
They appear as two or three rows of parallel lock stitching on the face of a fabric
while
a looper thread connects the rows on the back. Stitch type 406 is used to form hems
on knit garments, produce flat comfortable seams on necklines of T-shirts, and attach
bindings on mens brief. It is also used for making belt loops on jeans. It has 2N, 3T,
1L.

STITCH
Stitch type 407 is very similar except that it uses 3N, 2T, 1L and has even
more
stretch. The primary use of the 407 is attaching elastic to undergarments that
require
maximum stretch.
Stitch type 408 is not listed in federal standards. It is used for attaching pocket
facings to jeans and Chino casual pants. The stitch is formed by 2 needle threads
passing through the material and interloping with 2 looper threads with the
stitches
set on the underside of the seam. A top spreader thread is interlaced on the top
side
of the seam between the two needle threads.
The straight or zig zag version of 401 can be chained off the edge of the fabric
and
further decorative effects can be created by this means. If 411 is sewn along a
garment edge which has previously been neatened or hemmed in some way, and
it is
sewn with the chain effect to the right side of the garment, an effect similar to a
crocheted picot edge can be achieved.

STITCH
CLASS 500: OVEREDGE STITCH

The stitch types in this class are formed with one or more groups of threads, and
have as a general characteristic that loops from at least one group of threads pass
around the edge of the material. It is often called as overedge, overlock, serge,
overcast, or merrow. All 500 class machines trim the edge of the cut fabric just in
front
of the needle.
Stitch class 500 includes stitch types 501, 502, 503, 504, 505, 506, 507, 508, 509,
510, 511, 512, 513, 514, 515, 516, 517, 519, 520, 521, and 522.
Overedge stitches are high thread users and stretchy, they can be used on almost
all types and weights of fabric. Seams stitched with overedge stitches must be
pressed
to one side rather than being pressed open and flat.
Overedge machines must have a pair of knives for trimming fabric and three stitch
forming devices, a needle to carry the thread through the fabric, a looper or spreader
to carry the thread from the needle to the edge of the material on the bottom, and a
looper or spreader to carry thread up and over the edge of the material on the top.
CLASS
500:
OVEREDGE
STITCH
The odd numbered overedge stitch types 501, 503, 505 and 521 are known as
break open stitches because they act similar to the spiral back of a notebook. The
fabric is held tight together but not secure along the inner edge of the stitching, which
allows the seam to break open. These stitches are best used for edge finishes and
hems rather than for seams.
Even numbered stitch types in this class 502, 504, 512, and 514 have a much
tighter needle thread that holds the two layers of fabric together at the actual seam
line. If stress is placed on these seams, the stitches do not grin through or become
exposed between the layers of fabric. These stitches have a smoother appearance and
more durable.
Stitch types 503, 504, or 505 are overedge stitches used for serging. Serging is
the process of stitching along the cut edge of a single ply of fabric to prevent
unraveling.
Stitch Type 502 and 503 are formed by 2T, 1N, 1L (2Thread O/L). The 502 type is a
tight stitch that is used for seaming the outer edges of bags, while 503 is used for
blind
hemming and serging on mens trousers. 503 type is also used for hemming on Tshirts
and other knitted garments where careful fabric folding ensures a neatened edge as
well as a sewn hem with a minimum of stitching shown the right side it is often called
as overlock welting. Bight can be 18, 3/16 .
Stitch types 504 and 505 are formed by 3T, 1N,2L (3Thread O/L). they require more
thread in the formation, but they also have more stretch. Type 504 is a highly
extensible but secure stitch that makes an excellent seam for knit garments, such as
seams of cut and sewn sweaters, T-shirt, and knit caps. It is most common of the
stitch
class 500. When joining fabric with this stitch, a thread chain end must be left and the
seam then secured by some means either by a short lockstitch tack, or bar-tack, or a
short zig zag of stitching of fixed length. A special machine attachment is available
which can latchback the chain end at the starting end of the seam and recently
finishing end attachments have also been developed. This stitch type can also be
used
to provide a decorative neatened edge if sewn with high stitch density and a narrow
bight over an edge which, after the usual trimming has been rolled under to the width
of the stitch, usually 2mm.
Stitch type 505 stitch type is more satisfactory for serging than seaming since it
produces a break- open type of seam. It is sometimes referred to as the box edge
stitch or square edge stitch which provides excellent coverage of raw edges.
Stitch types 512 and 514 are sometimes called mock safety stitch. It is formed by
4T, 2N, 2L (4Thread O/L). Type 514 is stronger and more elastic than 512, but both
may be used for seaming knits and woven. However 514 makes a wider seam than
may be desirable for some knit garments. Stitch type 514 is used on light and medium
weight woven fabrics, especially lingerie and shirts. This stitch is wider than 504.
Stitches type 515, 516, and 519 are called as Safety stitches as the chain stitch
that closes the seam is backed up by another row of tight overedge stitches. Both rows
of stitches are formed at the same time. 5T,2N 3L (5Thread O/L). They are a
combination of an overedge stitch and a 401 chain stitch. 515 is a combination of
(401.503) and 516 is a combination of (401.504), the dot indicating a combination
stitch and the bracket denoting simultaneity of sewing. 516 is used by manufacturers
of shirts, jackets, blouses and jeans. A 516 is also used on moderate and budget woven
sportswear and polyester blouses at all price levels.
Type 521 is a three thread stitch with excellent elasticity and strength that is used
primarily for seaming hosiery. It formed with two needles, a looper, and a spreader.
Socks may be knitted as a tube and sewn together with a 521 stitch at the toe.

3 T O/L
CLASS 600: COVER STITCH
With the exception of the very first type, stitch types in this class are formed
with
three groups of threads, and have for general characteristics that two of the groups
cover both surfaces of the material. Loops of the first group of threads (needle
threads) are passed through loops of the third group already cast on the surface of
the
material and then through the material where they are interloped with loops of the
second group of thread son the underside of the material. The second and the third
groups are usually referred to as the top cover threads and the bottom cover or
looper
threads. Threads must be chained off and be crossed by another seam. Stitches in
this
class are the most complex of all and may have up to nine threads in total including
four needle threads. These stitches are complex version of the 400 class and used
on
knits and lingerie.
Cover stitches are also called as Flat-lock or flat-seam stitches.
Stitch types are 601, 602, 603, 604, 605, 606 and 607.
Stitch types 602 and 605 are strong, elastic stitches used extensively by
manufactures of knit garments to caver raw edges and prevent raveling. They may
be
used for attaching flat knit or ribbed knit collars. When the upper spreader thread is
not used, these stitches become 406 and 407 types. 602 has 4T, 2N 1L, 1CT. 605
has
5T, 3N, 1L, 1CL.
Stitch type 606 is known as flat lock and it is most complicated stitch type. It
has 9T,
4N, 4L, 1CL. It provides a smooth join with good extensibility. It is used on knitted
fabric, especially underwear fabrics, to give a seam with low bulk that can be worn
comfortably against the skin.
The flat, seaming, stitch, 607 is used to produce the flat, butted seams on
infants
panties, mens briefs, and other knitted garments. For every inch of needle thread,
this
machine requires 1.5 3 inches of looper thread depending on the type of stitch.
Advantages are high speed and seams that are stretchy, flat, and smooth. 607 has
6T,
4N, 1L, 1CL.
CLASS 700: SINGLE THREAD

STITCH
It is found only in the federal standards it is formed with a single

continuous
needle thread. At the first penetration of the needle threads a portion
of the needle
thread is wound onto a reel in the lower mechanism of the
machine.teh stitches are
formed by the interlacing of the needle thread with the thread with
the thread wound
on the reel. The interlacing is similar to the stitch class 300except for
the initial stitch.
The only stitch of this class is 701.
FEED MECHANISM
Principles and Features

The machine manufacturers continuously worked to develop and
improve the various feeding systems over a period of time.
Whatever automation that took place was mainly due to the
necessity of deskilling the operators. A well trained and skilled
operator any be able to handle all the plies of different kind of
fabrics but she may have to work more slowly in order to do so.
The operator may be joining two layers of heavy elastic net to
polyester satin, or pile fabric like velvet or corduroy or two layers
of shirting materials or a heavy woolen cloth to a viscose lining. All
these can cause difficulty. In certain cases controlling the feeding
of two different plies of fabric in a machine fitted with folder to
achieve a particular type of construction, any become a problem
to the operator. In general in order to get the quality and speed in
manufacturing different feed systems were developed that can be
adjusted to enable smooth sewing irrespective of the skill of the
operator.
FEED MECHANISM
As early as 1854 a major breakthrough in intermittent feeding was

achieved and
this followed a Four Motion feed system. This original four motion feed actually
consists of four distinctly separate movements. Lift - Feed Drop and Return.
In other
words the lower toothed feeddog, alternately lifting and feeding fabric under
presser
foot to pass the work under the needle was introduced. The resultant path or
the
movement at the initial stages was a square to control the stitch length but
the speed
was very less. At later stages, when the speed becomes a crucial factor in
volume
production, the feed dog movement was refined to amore elliptical curve,
while the
needle is out of the fabric. Todays technology in the garment industry
however has
made it imperative that precision feeding of fabric be accomplished at the
highest
possible sewing speeds.
FEED MECHANISM
DROP FEED OR PLAIN FEED

This is the simplest sewing machine feed system and the most commonly used. The
elements involved are the feed dog, throat plate or needle plate and presser foot. All
these three work in synchronization with the needle action to form stitches that are
smooth and even. The purpose of the feed dog is to move the fabric for a pre
determined amount between stitches. Therefore the amount of fabric fed is related to
stitch line which is controlled by stitch regulator. Size and shape of feed dog is
important when stitching on various fabrics. Tooth pitch and the tooth per inch and in
deciding the kind of feed dog to be use. The tooth pitch and tpi have an inverse
relation i.e. smaller the tooth pitch, larger the tpi.
There are two measurable characteristics during the feed dog motion cycle
i.e. feed travel and feed lift. A feed travel is horizontal distance the feed dog moves
while it is above the throat plate. Feed travel can be easily changed by means of stitch
regulator in this feed system.
Feed Lift is the vertical distance of the feed dog travel during beginning and
completion of the feed dog motion cycle. This is fixed by the manufacturer. In most
chain stitch machine feed lift can be changed in order to suit various fabrics.
FEED MECHANISM
FEED MECHANISM
DIFFERENTIAL FEED
This system consists of two independently adjustable lower feed dogs, one behind the
other. The movement of each section is similar to the movement of the whole feed
dog in the drop feed system but the stroke or movement of each part can be adjusted
separately or differentially.
Viewing from the operators side, the front feed dog is called differential and the
back is called the main. Feeding occurs while the needle is out of the fabric.
Differential feeding pucker can be avoided by correct adjustment of the lower feed
dogs. Feed dogs can be adjusted to give gathering or stretch effect. The differential is
adjusted to feed more than main to give gathering in lower ply. It is especially useful
for knitted fabrics which have a tendency to stretch. When differential is adjusted to
feed less then main, it produces an opposite effect referred to as negative or reverse
differential feed motion. This is helpful to minimize pucker on tightly woven stiff
material. The correct setting in each case can be achieved by trial and error method
with a particular fabric. A tiltable adjustment can also be achieved however the
adjustment of lower feed dogs travel gives better results.
FEED MECHANISM
Differential feed machines are also available with a special feature for enlarging
the feed travel by operator controlled, intermittent differential feed system. This is
useful for adding specified areas of fullness into seams. This is done by use of a
finger,
knee or foot switch.
A separator called a tripper blade can be introduced between top and bottom
plies, pressing over the differential feed dog surface, gathering the bottom ply
independently. This is called intermittent shirring system and used in operations
such
as setting puff sleeves.
Differential Feed utilizes a two piece feeder below the plate that raises up through
the plate, compresses the fabric against the presser foot and then advances the
fabric.
The front (main) feeder and rear feeder can be set to move the same or different
distances. When the rear feeder is set to move farther than the front, the fabric is
stretched. When the rear feeder is set to move less than the front, the fabric is
gathered (shirring)
FEED MECHANISM
FEED
MECHANISM
VARIABLE TOP FEED
Is the use of a lower feed system either a plain or differential feed in combination
with an independently adjustable top feed dog mounted in or adjacent to the presser
foot. The top feed follows an inverted elliptical path. The presser foot is in two
sections, one holding the fabric in position while the needle forms the stitch and the
other having teeth on the lower side and moving or walking in such a way that the top
ply is taken along while the needle is out of the material.
When used along with drop feed, inter ply slippage and uneven end ply can be
avoided. However when top feed is adjusted to feed more than bottom feed, fullness
will be introduced into the top ply or vice versa. Certain lockstitch and flat bed
machines are also equipped with an operator controlled device to introduced fullness
at specified areas of the seam.
Variable top feed when used with lower differential feed also helps eliminate
uneven ply end and various combinations of stretch or gather in either top or bottom
plies. Various overedge machines have various combinations with the top feed able to
act in front or behind the needle in order to give the best effect on a particular fabric.
This feeding system also provides more multi ply feed power. E.g. Cord piping
operations.
FEED MECHANISM
Variable top feed with feeding before needle for gathering effect on
top ply or
feeding after needle for smooth and eve seams. It makes it easier to
install attachments.
Compound-Differential Feed utilizes a feeder below the plate that
raises up through
the plate, compresses the fabric against the presser foot in conjunction
with a feeder
above the plate which both pinch the fabric and both move one stitch to
advance the
fabric together. The feeder below the plate is in two parts, front and rear
and can either
be set to stretch or gather (shirr) the fabric as it feeds.
FEED MECHANISM
FEED MECHANISM
ALTERNATING PRESSERS
Also referred to as walking foot system, it consists of a lower feed
mechanism
combined with a top feed presser positioned next to a lifting presser which is
used in
place of a normal presser foot. As the lower feed dog and top feed presser
engaged
and transport the material the lifting presser alternately lifts and releases the
material, during the feeding cycle then drops and presses during the needle
penetration cycle. These alternating presses appear to walk over the material
hence
the name Walking Foot. The speed of feeding is slow but the foot does not
retard the
feed of top ply. Therefore this system is very useful for heavy work or where
there are
abrupt changes in thickness. Here the walking foot motion cycle is same as the
needle
action cycle. Since all elements must stay in mechanical synchronization, the
travel of
the top feed cannot be varied.
FEED MECHANISM
FEED MECHANISM
NEEDLE FEED
It is also called as Compound Feed. Its is a combination of a moving needle bar
which arcs in the line of feed together with an equivalent feeding motion of a lower
plain feed system both synchronized to feed while the needle is in the material.
Since the plies of fabric are held together at the time of feeding, this system tends to
reduce the friction between presser foot and the material, reducing inter ply shifting
of light fabrics at higher speeds.
These systems are found in one or more needle lockstitch machines and some flat
bed, looper machines. The needle hole has to be enlarged, and is generally within the
feed dog. Stitch length adjustment is normal with the needle stroke changing with
stroke of the feed dog.
Needle feed Application Needle holds the plies during feeding to avoid slippage
and seam pucker. Used mainly for edge stitching checks, stripe.
Needle Feed utilizes a feeder below the plate that raises up through the plate,
compresses the fabric against the presser foot,in conjunction with the sewing needle
which, drops through the fabric, then both move one stitch to advance the fabric.
Then the separate and return to the original position for the next stitch.
FEED MECHANISM
FEED MECHANISM
UNISON FEED
Unison Feed combines Needle Feed with Compound Feed
The Needle penetrates the fabric, the top and bottom feed dogs compress on the
fabric, and they all advance the fabric one stitch, all release as the presser foot
drop
to hold the fabric, and all return for the next stitch
This is the addition of alternating presser to the needle feed principles. Due to
the
needle feed, simultaneous top and bottom feeding takes place while the needle is
in
the material. The walking foot alternately lifts and releases the material during the
feeding cycle and then drops and presses while the needle is out of the material.
Here
the resistance of top ply of material against a normal presser foot is eliminated.
Usually found on single needle lockstitch machines. However there are no
independently variable features for travel of the top feed presser. Used for
achieving
quality seams on multiple plies where ply control must be exact, without fullness
in
the seam.
FEED MECHANISM
FEED MECHANISM
PULLER FEED
These feeding systems are used as
auxiliary feeding devices in conjunction
with
one of the conventional lower feed systems
(plain feed or differential feed). The roller
exerts a pulling motion on the fabric
immediately behind the presser foot. Either
the
top and bottom rollers may be driven or
the top roller may only be driven while the
lower one idles. It is useful in multi needle
stitching of parts such as waistbands and is
slightly faster than the main feed cycle of
the machine. It is also found in elastication
operation.
Machines are being developed without
presser feet and feed dogs.
FEED MECHANISM
ROLLER PRESSER
Instead of presser foot suitable for
leathers has less contact points and
easier to guide around curves.
Wheel Feed utilizes a roller that
advances the fabric one stitch length
at a time,
in a ratcheting motion. The presser
foot has small rollers to permit easy
movement.
Wheel feed is used when the material
being sewn would be damaged by
tooth feeders.
Examples are vinyl plastic and some
leather products
FEED MECHANISM
MACHINE TYPE
TYPE OF FABRIC
DROP FEED
LOCKSTITCH,
OVEREDGE, CHAIN
STITCH
ALL KIND OF FABRIC

PARTICULARLY WOVEN
DIFFERENTIAL FEED
OVERLOCK,
CHAINSTITCH
KNITTED FABRICS,
TIGHTLY WOVEN
FABRICS
VARIBLE TOP FEED
LOCKSTITCH, FLAT
OVERLOCK
LIGHT WEIGHT FABRICS
NEEDLE FEED
LOCKSTITCH, FLAT BED

M/C
BULKY FABRICS, EDGE

STITCHING OF CHEQUES
AND STRIPES
UNISON FEED
LOCKSTITCH M/C,
OVERLOCK M/C
MULTILPE PLIES, EDGE

BINDING
ROLLER FEED
MULTI- NEEDLE M/C
ATTACHING THE WAIST

BANDS AND ELASTIC
MATERIALS
BELT FEED
INSERTION OF SLEEVES
Needle
Needle are Stitching Elements. They are amongst the first tools that were devised
by man. The first needle had a split head for grasping the filers or leather strips while
they were being drawn through the material. Needle with eyes emerged about 1700
BC and around 1800 AD the eye of the needle was moved from the head to near the
point.
Needles are designed to pierce the fabric and create a hole so thread can be
carried through the fabric. A thread loop is formed by the needle after it passes
through the fabric and begins to rise.
Different types exist
Curved needles used in some overedge and safety machines and for blind
hemming. Curved needles in blind hemmers do not penetrate the fabric completely.
Curved needles are costly and do not last as long as the straight needles.
Double Pointed Needles or Centre Eye Needles or Floating Needles are used to
give a similar type of Hand Stitch with an eye in the middle. Stitch class 200. The
double point needle which consists of two points, a shaft and a needle eye in the
centre of the shaft length. It is tossed completely through the fabric each time it
pierces the fabric.
Needle
Needle
Needle Points
It is divided into 1) Cloth Points: Must avoid cutting the yarns and 2) Cutting Points:
Must cut the material to form hole.
Cloth Point Needles
They are used for sewing the textile materials. Textile materials can be divided into 2
types i.e. woven & knits. Cloth Points have no cutting edges. They are made to
penetrate cloth by spreading the yarns as they pass through the cloth. Cloth Points
may have set tips (slim, regular, and heavy) which are commonly used on woven
fabrics.
In Knit Fabrics yarn structure is such that any yarn breaks to cause it to unravel.
Yarn breakage occurs due to the needle striking the yarns and breaking it or if the loop
is not large enough to take the needle. The shape of the tip of the needle point should
avoid the above. Therefore the requirement is such that needle deflects the yarn
slightly but should itself not be deflected that if fails to form the stitch. For Knits it is
best achieved using a ball point needle. The ball point tips (light, medium, and heavy)
are primarily used on knit fabrics and coarse yarn wovens.
Needle
Tips are available in varying degrees of bluntness for different

types of fabrics.
Fabrics with coarser yarns require more rounded points.
Hook Point needles have hooks instead of eyes for carrying the
thread through the
fabric. The needles are similar to crochet needle principle.
A heavy Point or Stub Point can be used for Button Stitching so
that the button can
be safely deflected into correct position.
Ball Point Needle may also be used for Woven fabrics that contain
Fine Elastic
Yarns. Incase of Elastic Yarns without a cover, a very Acute Point
needle maybe used to avoid damage.
Use of Thin, Medium & Heavy Ball Points would depend on the
loop structure,
type and size of yarn used, density and regularity and nature of finish
applied to the
fabric.
Needle
Cutting Point Needles

There are also a variety of cutting Points designed for stitching leather and
Vinyl. In
sewing these materials the needle must cut through the material instead of
pushing
the yarns aside. Rocked, Flat, or Spear point needles are specifically on
leather. These
needle points make a small cut as the thread is carried through the leather.
The size
and direction of the cut affect seam strength. Selection of the wrong tip and
point can
cause permanent damage to the fabric.
When Selecting these Needles one should keep in mind : The Final Effect required on the seam
The thread size as too small a needle size will give an untidy appearance &
too
large /thick thread though filling the incision, will be subject to excessive
friction
during stitching & result in thread breakage.
Direction of threading in relation to the type of needle is important as the
incision
May not be completely filled & the effect required may not be obtained.
Round Points Set
Round Points - Ball
Cutting Points - Wedge
Cutting Points - Spear
Needle
Sr.No.
1
NEEDLE POINTS
SCHMETZ
Normal Round Point (It is used in sewing
GROZ BECKERT
SPI
RS/SPI
light weight fabric for shirts & blouses)

2
Acute Round Point/Sharp Round Point (It is

used for densely woven material
Round Point with slightly Rounded Tip (It is
RG
used for chain stitch and Knitted fabric)

4
Light Ball Point (It is used for all Knitted &
SES
FFG/SES
SUK
FG/SUK
SKF
G/SKF
Synthetic Fabric)
5
Medium Ball Point (it is used for highly

elasticated material with rubber or elestomeric
Content)
Heavy Ball Point (It is used for Knitted &

Woven
Fabric
elastomerics)
with
high
content
of
Needle
A common test for appropriate needle size is to suspend a threaded needle by

holding the thread at 45 degree angle. The needle should slide down the thread
because of its own weight when the thread is moved slightly.
Needle finishes are available in four finishes:- regular or plain, extra buff, nickel
and chromium. These finishes are listed in sequence of their degrees of surface
smoothness with chromium finished needles having highest degrees of smooth. The
type of fabric, the operation and the rpm of the operation determines the finish to be
used. Tough fabrics and high speeds require exceptionally smooth needles to reduce
heat generated by friction to a minimum. Needles for sewing cloth are often finished
with a nickel, chrome plating, or Teflon, while leather needles are polished without
any plating Needle heat may be reduced by using smaller needle size, a ball eye,
additional fabric and thread lubricants, a different thread type and size, or needle
cooling devices. Needle coolers are built in tube like that blow air on the needle to
reduce the temperature created by friction. Coolers are used primarily on machines
that sew heavy fabrics and synthetics that have a tendency to fuse at high
temperature.
Needle
High needle heat will impair the quality and quantity of sewing
operations by: Fusing and breaking synthetic sewing threads.
Fusing the synthetic fabrics being sewn.
Coating of the needle with certain fabric finishes which fuse on the
hot needle,
This eventually clogs the needle hole and leads to breaking of sewing
thread or skip stitch.
If needle temperature exceeds the melting point of the thread, the
thread is likely
to melt when sewing stops. Heat appears to increase with speed at a
rate of 0.08
degree Fahrenheit per rpm. Lowering the speed from 4500 to 2500
stitches per
minute produces a drop of 160 degrees. In fabric and threads made of
natural fibers,
the heat can rise to about 600 degrees without causing damage.
heat is result of friction. It occurs when sewing heavy fabric at high
speed or when
stitching several fabric
Needle
Needle Sizes
Size of the needle refers to the diameter of the blade above the
eye. There are
about 30 needle size systems. Most commonly used is the metric &
Singer system. In
the metric or Nm system the diameter measures in mm is x by 100.
This refers the
metric # eg. Diameter of 1.1 mm x 100 is the Nm 110.
Selection of the needle size and thread size would depend on the
Sr.No
NEEDLE SIZE IN NEEDLE SIZE THREAD SIZES IN
type of material
METRIC SYSTEM IN
SINGER SYNTHETIC TICKET
used and seam to be stitched.
SYSTEMA balance has to be maintained
between
seam 180
strength
1
24
8
and minimum
damage
and pucker.
2
140
22
16
3
120
19
30
110
18
50
90
14
75
80
12
120
70
10
180
60
320
Needle
Positioning the Needle.

Needle position in the needle bar is specified best by referring to the
clock position of
the needle scarf. The needle hole in the throat plate is the centre of an
imaginary
clock face. The 6 oclock position on this clock face is the spot at the
beginning end of
the sewing feed line. The 12 oclock position is the spot at the finish end
of the feed
line. The 6 oclock spot on most machines is directly in front of the
operator. In such
cases, the 3 oclock position is at the operators right hand side and 9
oclock is at the
operators left hand side.
Problems faced due to incorrect Needle.
Are Skipped stitches, fabric damage, needle deflection (in the case of
thin needles)
needle heat thread breakage, uneven stitching, weak seams.
MACHINE BEDS
On the basis of Bed Types

Machine bed is that part of the sewing machine on
which the fabric rests while it is being sewn. Types
of beds in the machine are Flat, Cylinder, Feed of
the arm, Post Bed, Raised Bed and Side Bed.
Flat Bed
It is found on Lock stitch and certain chain stitch
machines. Here the bed of the machine is
mounted on the table of the machine suitable
surface for flat sewing. A cloth plate is mounted
horizontally on the bed & is the work surface , the
part of the machine on which the fabric rests
while being sewn. The material can easily be
guided around the needle and the presser foot.
The flat bed is used in the majority of sewing
where a large and open garment part can be
easily be handled past the needle. It provides a
suitable surface for much flat sewing and also
facilitates the use of markers to control the
position of garment parts. The machine allow
manipulation of fabric on both sides of the needle
for top stitching and lapped seaming.
For eg.:- a patch pocket on a shirt front.
MACHINE
BEDS
Cylinder Bed
The cloth plate is located horizontally at
the upper end of a horizontal cylinder.
Cylinder or open arm beds are used to
sew tubular items such as sleeve
circumferences or tubular neck bands. The
fabric is turned around the arm while
seaming. It permits one to sew a
cylindrically shaped item. This shape
allows easy rotation of the item to be
stitched.
MACHINE
The Feed of the Arm
BEDS
This is also a type of
cylinder bed
machine. The bed of the machine is
U shaped. These machines are used
where a lapped seam has to be
closed in as such a way that the
garment part becomes a tube. The
stitching is along the length of the
cylinder. It is common in jeans
production for Inseam.
MACHINE
BEDS
Post Bed
Post bed machines have the cloth plate
attached horizontally to the top of a
narrow post or small platform above the
table surface. This type of machines are
commonly used for footwear where the
parts to be sewn are small, curved or
awkward in shape. The sewing area is
very small therefore permits the item to
be turned without difficulty. For eg.:Footwear industry shoes, bags,
umbrellas, boots, caps.
MACHINE
Raised Bed
BEDS
The bed plate is in the form of a plinth.
It facilitates the assembly of pre sewn
parts and is especially suitable for the
fitting of accessories and special
attachments. This is the basic form for
various specialized machines such as
button hole machine.
MACHINE BEDS
SideBed
It trims the edge of the fabric in front
of the needle just as it is sewn.
Machines which are specialized for
sewing at edges need only a small
working area.
Computerized Lock Stitch Sewing

Machine
Sewing machines with Memory banks (self programming sewing machines)
have
electronic control panels, similar to those of standard computers with memories,
which the operator uses to program an operation which the machine will
perform
repeatedly. First, the operator performs an operation after pre setting the
control
panel to make the memory bank register all the sewing actions, such as sewing
given
distances, raising and lowering the presser foot for repositioning during sewing,
stopping and actuating a sewing line before and after repositioning.
In some machines with memory banks, a sewing programs time factors all
the
phases of the operation (pick up, position, sew, reposition, sew etc) can be
programmed into the memory bank without an operator actually doing the
operation
and simultaneously memorizing the operators times for each operation. The
amount of programs which can be stored in a self programming unit depends
on the
sewing machine model.
Computerized Lock Stitch Sewing

Machine
There are three kinds of memory bank controlled machines re

cycle control: Sew Control: - only sew and reposition operation of the operators
work cycle, are
automatic retime, pick up, position, extract and discard are done
manually. Reposition
is only automatic re allowing the operator a maximum given time
with in which to
reposition the fabric before the next sew operation begins.
Sew and discard control:- Sew and reposition, extract and
discard are
automatic.
Total operational control:- the memory bank controls all phases of
the entire
Operation from pick up through discard the whole operation is
automatic.
WORK AIDS
Work aids are labor saving devices that are additions to basic sewing
machines.
Handling is a term used to describe those elements of the sewing cycle which
are not
part of the actual sewing process for eg:- opening garment bundles, disposing
stitched
garment parts, lifting presser foot for stitching at corners etc. this constitutes
80% of
the time spent working on the machine. It is this handling time that is reduced
by the
use of appropriate work aids. Work aids also simplify an operation, increase
productivity, improve work quality, reduce operator fatigue and minimize
operator
training time. (Deskilling the operator).
However it is often observed that garments made for the fashion market will
be
made with minimum of additions to the basic sewing machine so as to maintain
maximum flexibility of style while those made in high volume is limited styles
will
make use of every device available.
TYPES OF WORK AIDS
The most commonly used work aids those used for guiding or
folding the fabric,
trimming treads or other components and for stacking the work after
sewing. Least
common are those which assist is the initial picking up of the parts to
be sewn.
In terms of their working they could be operated pneumatically,
mechanically or
electronically. Some are built into the machine such as a special
motor, some are
variations of the normal machine part such as a special presser foot or
some are
completely separate added part. Pneumatic equipment is operated by
high pressure
compressed air that drives the mechanism. It is widely used to
operate thread
trimmers and wipers, chain cutters and positioning and stacking
devices.
ATTACHMENTS
These are devices that can be attached to the sewing machine without
cutting
through or changing the original frame of the machines. The removal of such
an
attachment leaves the machine in its original condition
Sewing machines attachments either guide, position or prepare the fabric
for
sewing.
Guides do not move or fold the fabric during the sewing operation. The
guide is
actually a focusing device which enables the operator to position the fabric
correctly
and quickly during the operation.
Positioner attachments move or bend the fabric during operation. The
operator
guides the fabric to positioned. The most common types of positioning
attachments
folds the fabric edges during the sewing operation. For eg: - Seaming,
hemming,
binding, piping, shirring, gathering.
GUIDES
They are used where sewing must take place in a certain position on a
garment or
a certain distance from a raw edge. E.g.:- attachment of lace or braid, patch
pocket on
a shirt, skirt or pair of trousers.
EDGE GUIDES
Are used to match edges of fabric to obtain seams of accurate width in
order to
obtain accurate garment sizing. Also help in controlling the amount of bulk in
a seam.
Lock stitch machine with cutter to control seam allowance.
Edge guides come in the form of a metal plate straight or curved that is
screwed
onto the machine bed or in form of compensating presser feet. Edge guides
are also
attached to overlock machines so that the amount trimmed off by the knife in
that
which is required for the garment rather than the garment be too large or too
small.
GUIDES
COMPENSATING
FEET
Are used as edge guides when the distance required to be stitched is within the
small size of the foot e.g.:- topstitching shirt collar. Up to 5mm edge stitching it is
within the presser foot. Beyond that it is a separate piece. The presser foot is able to
carry out its normal function also. This foot comes in various sizes and forms
depending on the required stitching operation. It is used also in situations where there
is a difference in height to the left and right e.g.:- stitch in ditch in waistband attach,
topstitching patch pockets (edge guides cannot be used), topstitching raised seams
where fabric is to one side, topstitching lengthwise seam in skirt, trousers.
Compensating foot can be used in combo with edge guides for e.g.: topstitching
around the edges such as that of a raincoat at 1mm 6mm. using a twin needle
machine with split needle bar corners and compensating foot complete the stitching
in one operation when split needle bar not available 2 operations using compensating
foot and edge guide. In absence s of a twin needle one would use a compensating foot
for outside row and ordinary edge guide for row that is further from the edge.
SPECIALISED PRESSER FEET
Zipper foot is either a half foot or two very narrow toes. Used when stitching must
be closer to the teeth. Quilter foot, Piping foot and Guide feet
COMPENSATING FEET
COMPENSATING FEET
POSITIONING
GUIDES
Are designed to guide and

pre-position the material as
they are being sewn. E.g.
are many small toothed
wheel along side the
presser foot with which the
operator follows the edge of
the interlining in sewing
shirt collar. Guides in 406 or
cover stitch machine for
sewing flat seams.
STITCHING
When using edge guides one requires
JIGS
accurate cutting. However when die
cutting not possible, stitching jigs are
used especially when stitching parts
e.g. collars to have identical points
cuffs, patch pockets.
JIGS
Are made of aluminum or plastic 2
layers, hinged, a slot cut to the shape
of required stitch line 2 pieces of
garment parts laid in the center,
closed to hold them firmly, operator
moves the jig, careful control required,
disadvantage larger seam allowances
required, extra fabric to be trimmed
off separate jigs needed for every
style and therefore useful only when
used for long production runs.
Automatic jigs are also available.
RACK GUIDES
Are used when a lace or braid or binding is needed to be attached on a garment part. The
rack guide ensures that the material of narrow width is penetrated flat to the needle and edge
guide ensures the stitching at the correct pace. When to be attached on the top, link bars
mounted above presser foot and when attached below the garment, reel mounted below the
machine table. Bias trim fed at right angles. Twin needle machine (lock stitch and chain stitch) is
often used. The lace or braid should be presented at the center. A lace is attached with 406 in a
manner that raw edges covered by bottom cover thread.
Other types of guides used where one garment part is positioned onto another. For e.g.
patch pocket to be attached to a shirt. Another method is to drill holes but frequently out of
place and there is a problem covering them with pocket corners. Can mark with tailors chalk,
special ink which shows under ultraviolet light placed over the operators area it is very time
consuming. An edge guide for stitching to ensure correct seam width, narrow beam lights as
guides. Lights are used for sewing for dart positions, button position.
Rack Guides not only are required to be presented to the needle flat but also at the correct
tension. Braids presented in the roll form are always under some tension. Such materials when
relaxed may cause pucker. The material may allow to be relaxed but tension may develop when
pulled by the machine.
FOLDERS
Are used where fabric must be folded prior to sewing. In most cases they are
separate devices attached to the machine. Where the scale of folding is small, the
folder is contained in the presser foot itself. Folders are mostly used on machines
having more than one needle. They are made of highly polished metal over which
the
material can pass smoothly. Their use will depend on the type of garment they
make
and is justified only for moderate and high volume production. Folders enable
great
increase in production along with high standard of control over quality. When using
folders, several factors to be taken into account for e.g. when attaching separate
strip
preferable continuous, sequence of construction of garment.
Folders are of many types depending on the seam they construct, those which
fold
the fabric to finish an edge called hemmers, those which join garment sections
and
those which add a section of self fabric or other material to the garment (Bound
Seam), referred to as binders.
FOLDERS
Hemmers give either narrow fold or boarder fold. A different hemmer is used
depending on the width of the finished seam. From 5mm to 40 mm a separate folder
maybe used.
A narrow hem folder makes a double rolled hem used to finish edges of scarves
and handkerchiefs (Pico) and for shirt bottom Swing Hemmer I used.
A hem wider than 5 mm requires a separate folder. Stitches used are 301, or 103.
When using 401, the hem would be folded down rather than up. Folders are also
combined with specialized machine feed system to avoid roping effect when finishing
hems especially wider hems.
Swing Out Folder is used when sewing shirts out dresses. The beginning and end
of the hem is bulky due to the placket front. Te start of the hem might need to be
turned freehand. Spring hemmer are used for thick and thin seams or crossover
seams.
Folders are used commonly for sewing shirt front plackets. They not only simplify
the operation but also reduce the number of operations therefore increasing
productivity. The use of this folder is most effective on twin needle machines. For e.g.
front placket using twin needle or four needle machine top center plaid folder.
FOLDERS
Folders which join major garment parts together, the commonest one is used
for
jeans construction, the lap fell folder 401 twin needle machine folder can be
used on a
flat bed or feed of the arm machine.
Folders are also available which add self fabric or other material to a garment
know are binders (Bound Seam). Done either to finish edges neatly or create a
decorative effect or both. For e.g.:- Sleeve placket binder used on single needle
machine.
Rolls of binding are fixed on rack guides in such a manner that the fabric is
supplied straight to the main fabric.
The folder must maintain total control of the fabric right up to point of
sewing. The
feed system is also altered to avoid puckering. On concave curves the binding is
stretched slightly as it is sewn on, convex curves it is pulled or eased. Garment
parts
must be fully fed into the folder or the binding may slip off.
Folders are also successfully used for waist bands and construction of belt
loops.
OTHER WORK AIDS
Include those which aid the operator to separate work from the machines
without
picking up a pair of scissors. In most cases operator Chain off the parts which are
then
cut apart later with scissors. The threads should be cut very close to the end of
the
seam and in case of chainstitch 1 cm is left at the end to avoid unraveling. The left
ends are then hand trimmed at a later stage. A simple method often used in
lockstitch
machines is a metal edge behind the needle bar which is sharp enough for the
thread
to be cut. However lengths will vary.
Not suitable for chain stitch as when threads pulled it will cause the stitch to
break. In some machines knives are provided behind the presser foot. These are
operated by knee press, operated which material has passed the knife or photo
electric or infra red detector which senses presence or absence of fabric. Suitable
knives are also used to cut reinforcing tape elastic or other material. They are also
called impact cutters.
On lock stitch, under bed trimmers in combination with needle positioner motor.
Cuts the thread below the throat plate. Activated by operators heeling back on the
treadle. The needle positioner such that when the machine stops the machine and
does not operate the thread cutter, machine stops with needle positioned down.
When thread cutter operated, needle is automatically raised. Saving in time and no
trimming at later stage. Latch back device is another type of work aid found in
overlock machine. Locking is done by either stitch condensation or bar tacking or
lockstitch.
Activities which a machinist performs during the sewing cycle such as raising the
presser foot, backtacking at the end of a seam etc can be programmed into a
microprocessor controlled machine, along with needled positioner and thread cutting.
These machines are referred to as integrated sewing units (ISU). Used for label attach,
topstitching patch pockets, collars, cuffs etc. Amount of handling is considerably
reduced. Raised presser feet to allow fabric insertion, lower presser foot commence
sewing with backtack and sew from and cut at the end of the cycle.
Compressed air used to avoid curl edges of jersey fabric during

overedging, when
hems are double rolled, to push the fray ends into the fold of the
hem, cooling over
heated machines clean, dry compressed air is used.
Requires a compressor, storage vessel which acts as a reservoir,
an air cooler to
maintain a constant temperature, air filter pipework, drains to
remove moisture,
flexible tubing to carry air to individual work place.Valve is opened,
air enters cylinder
which drives the piston carries out the work required.
STACKERS
The type of stackers depends on the size of the garment that is being disposed.
Stackers are adjusted to the height of the table and parts are off loaded into
boxes: for
smaller sewing parts. For larger sewing parts the operator passes the piece off the
back of the machine over the horizontal bar of the stacker. Pneumatic operation
moves the bar away from the machine so that the garment falls aside, the bar
then
returns to its former position to await the next garment.
SLACK FEEDER
Ensures materials are feed in relaxed state. Motor with roller. From the rollers the
material hangs in a long slack loop. A tension occurs when this relaxed loop is
pulled
by the machine. Elastics sewn stretched, give uniform gathering.
MOTOR ROLLERS
Metering the right amount of elastic with a puller feed mechanism. Used for wide
elastics sewn with 4 needle s. fabric is folded round the elastic by means of a
folder.

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Introduction to Sewing

History of Sewing Machine

Classification of Sewing Machines

Classification of Sewing Machines

Parts of Single Needle Lock Stitch

Parts of Single Needle Lock Stitch

Parts of Single Needle Lock Stitch

Sewing Machine Kinematics:

Formation of Single Needle

Formation of Single Needle Lock

Formation of Single Thread Chain

Stitch formation a Two Thread

Important parts of the Single

STITCHING ELEMENTS:Mainly consist of

Mainly consist of Needles, Shuttles, Bobbins and Loopers.

BOBBIN AND BOBBIN CASE, SHUTTLES.

THREAD CONTROL LINKS

THREAD CONTROL LINKS

THREAD CONTROL LINKS

tension regulator. The check spring acts

Feed Dog is a Feeding Component. The

FEED SYSTEM COMPONENTS

Types of lubrication systems:

Sewing Machine Motors:They are of two basic types

Seams & Classification

Seams & Classification

Needle does not pass through the fabric

Seams & Classification

Class 1 Superimpose Seam

Class 2 Lapped Seam

It is used for attaching front bands to

Class 3 Bound Seam

Bound seams may be sewn with a lock stitch, chain stitch, or

Class 4 Flat Seam

Class 6 Edge Finishing

Seam quality issues

Failure of hook, looper, or needle to enter

Check machines clearances and timing.

Thread loop failure

Change needle size/style

Flagging of fabric due to poor presser foot

Adjust presser foot pressure

Needle deflections or bent needles

Use a reinforced needle

Incorrect sewing tension in needle or under

Adjust thread tension

Poor loop formation

Check loop formation

Needle vibrating or deflecting

Increase needle size

Incorrect or blunt needle point

Incorrect needle-to-thread size relationship

Change needle thread size to appropriate size

Feed dog sways

Tighten feed dog

Poor fabric control and presser foot bounce

Adjust presser foot pressure

Unbalanced or Variable Stitches

Incorrect sewing tensions

Adjust top or bottom thread tension as

Check for correct thread path

Needle thread snagging on bobbin case or

Polish bobbin case and thread contact surfaces