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Parthraj R.

Puranik
ME (Manmade Textiles)

PROPERTIES OF
TEXTILE FIBERS

COTTON

Physical Properties

Tenacity Dry Strength

The strength of cotton fibers is attributed


to the good alignment of its long
polymers, the countless, regular,
hydrogen bond formations between
adjacent polymers and the spiraling
fibrils in the primary and secondary cell
walls.

Its strength is 2 5 grams per denier.

Tenacity Wet Strength

The strength of cotton fiber increases by 25%


in wet state.

This is due to a temporary improvement in


polymer alignment in the amorphous regions
due to increase in the number of hydrogen
bonds.

Washing and ironing or boiling for the purpose


of sterilization is possible due to this property.

Elongation / Elasticity

The cotton fiber is relatively inelastic and


for this reason cotton textiles wrinkles
and crease readily.

% elongation of cotton is between 3


10%.

If the fibers are stretched to 5 10%, the


recovery is only 45%.

Moisture Regain

The cotton fiber is very absorbent, owing


to the presence of countless OH
groups.

The moisture regain of cotton is around


6 8%, which contributes to the comfort
properties.

Thermal Properties

Effect of Sunlight

Long exposure to sunlight deteriorates


the strength of the fiber.

Sunlight has bleaching effect on cotton.

Prolonged exposure to sunlight leads to


discoloration of the fibers.

Effect of Heat

Excessive application of heat energy


causes the cotton fiber to char and burn,
without any prior melting.

It can withstand very high temperatures.


Hence no special precautions are
required while ironing.

The safe ironing temperature is 220oF.

Chemical Properties

Effect of Acids

Cotton fibers are weakened and


destroyed by acids.

Cotton is affected by hot dilute acids or


cold concentrated acids in which it
disintegrates.

Cold weak acids do not affect cotton.

Effect of Alkali

Cotton fibers are resistant to alkalis and


are relatively unaffected by normal
laundering.

This helps in mercerization and


bleaching of cotton.

Effect of Bleaches

The most common bleaches used on


cotton textile materials are sodium
hypochlorite and sodium perborate.

They bleach most effectively in alkaline


conditions to which cotton textile
materials are resistant.

Effect of Microorganisms

Cotton fibers can resist moths and most


insects but fungi and bacteria can attack
it.

Color Fastness

Cotton is easy to dye and print.

The classes of dye, which may be used to color cotton


are azoic, direct, reactive, sulphur and vat dyes.

The polar polymer system easily attracts any polar dye


molecules into the polymer system.

Therefore, dye molecules, which can be dispersed in


water, will be absorbed by the polymer system of
cotton.

FLAX

Physical Properties

Tenacity Dry Strength

Flax is a very strong fiber because it is


very crystalline polymer system permits
its extremely long polymers to form
more hydrogen bonds than cotton
polymers.

Its strength is 3 4 grams per denier.

Elongation / Elasticity

Flax is a very inelastic fiber which is due


to its very crystalline polymer system.

Due to this inelasticity, the fabrics made


from flax (linen) tend to wrinkle or crease
easily and are stiff.

If the fiber is stretched to 3%, the


recovery is only 60%.

Moisture Regain

The same reasons that apply for cotton


are applicable to flax.

Its moisture regain is 7%.

Thermal Properties

Effect of Heat

Flax has the best heat resistance and


conductivity of all the commonly used
textile fibers.

With regard to other thermal properties


of flax, they are similar to cotton.

Chemical Properties

All the chemical properties of flax are


similar to cotton.

However, flax textile materials are not


mercerized.

WOOL

Physical Properties

Tenacity Dry Strength

Wool is a comparatively weak fiber.

The low tensile strength is due to few


hydrogen bonds that are formed.

The tenacity of wool is 1 1.7 grams per


denier.

Tenacity Wet Strength

When wool absorb moisture, the water


molecules gradually force sufficient
polymers apart to cause a significant
number of hydrogen bonds to break.

Hence, wool losses around 30% of


strength in wet condition.

Elongation / Elasticity

Wool has very good elastic recovery.

The ability of wool fibers to recover from being


stretched or compressed is partly due to its
crimped configuration and partly due to the
alpha-keratin configuration of wool polymers.

In dry state, wool shows elongation of around 25


35%, whereas in wet state it becomes 50%.

When wool fiber is stretched to 5%, it shows


100% elastic recovery.

Moisture Regain

Wool fiber is highly absorbent. In fact it


is most hygroscopic of all fibers.

It has tendency of absorbing 13 18%


moisture from the atmosphere.

Heat of Wetting

Wool is renowned for its ability to give off a


small amount of heat whilst absorbing
moisture. This is known as heat of wetting.

This is due to the collision between water


molecules and the polar groups in the wool
polymers.

The heat of wetting of wool is 113


grams/joule.

Fiber

Heat of Wetting (joules


per gram)

Acetate

34

Acrylic

Cotton

46

Flax

54

Nylon

31

Polyester

Silk

69

Viscose

106

Wool

113

Thermal Properties

Effect of Sunlight

Wool fibers are very sensitive to


sunlight.

The presence of moisture on wool fiber


when exposed to sunlight leads to
deterioration and brittleness of fiber.

Effect of Heat

Wool decomposes at a temperature as


high as 400oF.

Safe ironing temperature is around 150 200oF.

Chemical Properties

Effect of Acids

Wool is more resistant to acids than to


alkalis.

Although the polymer system is


weakened in acidic solutions, the fiber
does not dissolve.

Effect of Alkali

Wool dissolves readily in alkaline


solutions.

Prolonged exposure to alkalis leads to


complete destruction of the wool fiber.

Effect of Bleaches

Chlorine bleaching items are not used


as they cause damage to the fiber.

Bleaching with hydrogen peroxide can


be done under controlled conditions.

Effect of Microorganisms

Wool when stored in damp conditions


undergo bacterial degradation.

Insects directly eat the fibers.

It is observed in the form of holes on the


fabric.

Color Fastness

Wool, like cotton, is considered easy to


dye.

It is colored most readily by acid dyes,


mordant dyes and reactive dyes.

The polarity of the polymers and its


amorphous nature is responsible for
easy dyeing of wool.

SILK

Physical Properties

Tenacity Dry Strength

The silk filament is strong.

This strength is due to its linear and very


crystalline polymer system.

Its tenacity is 2.5 5 grams per denier.

Tenacity Wet Strength

When wet, silk loses strength.

This is due to water molecules


hydrolyzing a significant number of
hydrogen bonds and in the process
weakening the silk polymer.

It loses around 20% of its strength when


wet.

Elongation / Elasticity

Silk is considered to be more plastic than


elastic because of its very crystalline
polymer system.

In dry state, silk shows elongation of 20


25%. In wet state, the elongation
increases.

Silk has very low elastic recovery. If the


filament is stretched to greater than 20%, it
will remain permanently deformed.

Moisture Regain

Because silk has a very crystalline


polymer system, it is less absorbent than
wool.

The moisture regain of silk is 8 10% at


65% RH (relative humidity).

At 100% RH, silk can absorb 30% of


moisture.

Thermal Properties

Effect of Sunlight

Sunlight causes damage to silk as a


result of which the filaments lose their
strength.

This is due to the lack of covalent crosslinks in the polymer system of silk.

Effect of Heat

Silk is more sensitive to heat than wool.

The filaments cannot withstand higher


ironing and processing temperatures than
wool.

Silk decomposes at 300oF.

Safe ironing temperature is 100 120oC.

Chemical Properties

Effect of Acids

Silk is degraded more readily by acids


than wool.

The perspiration, which is acidic, will


cause immediate breakdown of the
polymer system of silk.

Concentrated mineral acids dissolve silk


faster than wool. Organic acids do not
harm silk.

Effect of Alkali

Alkaline solutions cause the silk


filaments to swell.

Silk is not as sensitive to alkalis as wool


but it can be damaged if temperature
and concentration is too high.

Effect of Bleaches

Chlorine bleaching agents harm silk,


e.g. sodium hypochlorite.

Mild hydrogen peroxide and sodium per


borate can be safely used on silk.

Effect of Microorganisms

Same as that of wool.

Color Fastness

Same as that of wool.

However, the luster of silk will cause its


dyed and printed silk textile materials to
appear much brighter in color than any
equivalent dyed or printed textile
material.

VISCOSE RAYON

Physical Properties

Tenacity Dry Strength

Because the polymer system of viscose


is very amorphous, its fibers are weaker
than cotton.

The tenacity of viscose rayon is 1.7


2.3 grams per denier.

Tenacity Wet Strength

When wet, viscose is only half as strong


as when dry.

Water molecule enters into the


amorphous regions of the polymer and
break a significant number of hydrogen
bonds, resulting in the weaker fiber
when wet.

Elongation / Elasticity

The amorphous nature and fewer hydrogen bonds


of viscose, enable the polymers to slide past each
other when the fiber is put under strain.

When the strain is removed, the polymers do not


return to the original position. Thus viscose textile
materials are wrinkled or creased readily.

It shows elongation of about 20 25 %.

If the filament is stretched to greater than 10%,


then the recovery is only 40%.

Moisture Regain

The very amorphous polymer system of


viscose, as well as its polar polymers,
make viscose the most absorbent fiber
in common use.

Its moisture regain is 12 14%.

Thermal Properties

Effect of Sunlight

Prolonged exposure to sunlight weakens


the fiber due to moisture and ultraviolet
light of the sunlight.

Effect of Heat

At 300oF or more, viscose rayon loses


its strength and begins to decompose at
350 - 400oF.

Chemical Properties

Effect of Acids

Resistance of rayon to acids is generally


less than that of cotton.

Organic acids can be safely used in 1


2% concentration without injury to the
fiber.

At higher temperatures and


concentrations all acids will destroy
rayon.

Effect of Alkali

Similar to that of cotton.

Effect of Bleaches

Similar to that of cotton.

Effect of Microorganisms

Microorganisms like mildew, fungus,


bacteria, etc. affect the color, strength,
dyeing properties and luster of viscose
rayon.

Clean and dry viscose rayon is rarely


attacked by microorganisms.

Color Fastness

Viscose rayon fibers will generally color more


brightly, even when delustered, than cotton.

This is due to greater amount of incident light


reflected by viscose even when delustered.

The reflected light brightens, or increases the


value and chroma of the dyed or printed
viscose.

ACRYLIC

Physical Properties

Tenacity Dry Strength

Because of the very crystalline nature of


the polymer systems, as well as the long
chain polymers, acrylic has fairly high
tenacity.

Its tenacity is 20 to 27 g/tex.

Tenacity Wet Strength

When wet, acrylic fibers lose strength


which indicate that there is presence of
amorphous regions in the polymer
system.

The wet strength of acrylic is 10 20%


less than its dry strength.

Elongation / Elasticity

Acrylics have soft handle.

Although the polymer system is crystalline,


the polymers are able to slide over each
other, leading to wrinkling or creasing.

Acrylics can be elongated to about 25%


without break.

When extended to about 10%, the elastic


recovery is only 45%.

Moisture Regain

Acrylic fibers are hydrophobic because


the polymer system is highly crystalline.

The moisture regain of acrylic is about


1.2 2 % at 65% RH.

Thermal Properties

Effect of Sunlight

Acrylic fibers are the most sunlight


resistant fibers in common use.

When exposed to sunlight, these fibers


will initially show loss of tenacity. Then
this effect is leveled off and hence no
further loss of tenacity is observed.

Effect of Heat

Acrylic fibers are the most heat sensitive


fibers if the commonly used synthetic fibers.

Prolonged exposure to heat leads to loss of


strength.

When taken near a flame, acrylic fibers tend


to ignite immediately, rather than melt.

They are most flammable synthetic fibers in


common use.

Chemical Properties

Effect of Acids

The acrylic fibers are resistant to acids


because their polymers do not contain
any chemical groups which will attract or
react with acid radicals.

Effect of Alkali

The very crystalline nature of acrylic


polymer system prevents the ready
entry of alkaline solutions.

In presence of alkali, surface


discoloration, yellowing or dulling of the
acrylic textile material.

Effect of Bleaches

Acrylic fibers are not usually bleached in


practice.

Color Fastness

Acrylic fibers are most commonly dyed


with basic and disperse dyes.

Nylon

Physical Properties

Tenacity Dry Strength

Due to very crystalline polymer system,


nylon filaments have very good tenacity.

The dry tenacity of nylon filaments is 36


65 g/tex.

Tenacity Wet Strength

When wet, nylon filament lose strength


due to hydrolyzing a significant number
of hydrogen bonds in the amorphous
regions of the polymer system.

Nylon filament losses around 10 15%


strength.

Elongation / Elasticity

The very good elastic property of nylon


filaments is due to the very regular grid
of strong hydrogen bonds in the polymer
system.

Nylon can be elongated to about 20%


without break.

When extended to about 10%, the


elastic recovery is only 90%.

Moisture Regain

Nylon filaments are not absorbent even


though there is a relatively strong
attraction for water molecules by the
polar amide groups.

Its moisture regain is 4 4.5 %.

Thermal Properties

Effect of Sunlight

Nylon has only a fair resistance to


sunlight.

Effect of Heat

Nylon has very poor heat resistance.

Chemical Properties

Effect of Acids

Nylon is less resistant to acids.

The amide group in nylon polymers are


readily hydrolyzed under acidic
conditions.

In presence of acids, white nylon


materials will assume yellow hue, while
colored nylon may appear duller.

Effect of Alkali

Prolonged and frequent exposure to


alkalis will cause weakening of the nylon
textile material along with yellowing of
white fiber and dulling of colored nylon.

Effect of Bleaches

Nylon textile materials are inherently


white and do not require bleaching.

Effect of Microorganisms

Not attacked by microorganisms.

Color Fastness

Nylon textile materials can be dyed with


acid, disperse and metalized dyes.

Polyester

Physical Properties

Tenacity Dry Strength

Due to extremely crystalline polymer


system, polyester filaments have very
high tenacity.

The dry tenacity of polyester filaments is


25 - 60 g/tex.

Tenacity Wet Strength

Polyester filaments do not absorb


moisture. Hence there strength is not
affected when wet.

Elongation / Elasticity

The stiffness of polyester filaments is


due to its extremely crystalline polymer
system.

Polyester can be elongated to about 20 48% without break.

When extended to about 10%, the


elastic recovery is only 80%.

Moisture Regain

Polyester filaments are hydrophobic.

The lack of polarity and extremely


crystalline polymer resists the entry of
water molecules in the polymer system.

Its moisture regain is only 0.4 %.

Thermal Properties

Effect of Sunlight

The benzene rings of the polyester


polymer provide stability to the whole
polymer, enabling the polymers to
withstand the detrimental effects of the
suns ultraviolet radiation.

Effect of Heat

Polyester has very poor heat resistance.

Chemical Properties

Effect of Acids

The ester groups of polyester polymers


are resistant to acid hydrolysis.

This resistance is further enhanced by


the extremely high crystalline nature of
polyester which prevents the entry of
any acid or water molecules into the
polymer system.

Effect of Alkali

Alkaline conditions during laundering


may hydrolyze polymer system.

But the extreme crystalline system will


restrict this hydrolyses to surface and
hence after repeated laundering
polyester textile materials become
thinner and finer.

Effect of Bleaches

Polyester textile materials are inherently


white and do not require bleaching.

If bleaching is required this is effected


using sodium chlorite.

Effect of Microorganisms

Not attacked by microorganisms.

Color Fastness

It is very difficult for the dye molecules to


penetrate the extremely crystalline
polymer system of polyester fiber.

Only relatively small molecules of


disperse dyes are used to dye or print
polyester fibers.

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