KNITTING

KARTHIKA M DEV
 Weft Knitting
In weft knitting, the loops are formed across width of
the fabric , and each weft thread is fed , more or less at
right angles to the direction in which the fabric is
produced.
It is possible to knit with only one thread or cone of
yarn. All the loops in one course are produced from the
single supply and loops are formed successive order
one by one.
In this method the fabric is produced by simple up and
down movement of the needles, which is provided by the
profile of a cam system. The knitting cams are the
devices which convert the rotary machine drive into
a suitable reciprocating motion of the needles.
Depending on the design of the machine the cams are
fixed, adjustable or exchangeable.
 The knitting action can be explained as follows:
1. Rest position- The needle is in the rest position with the old loop in the hook of
the needle.

2. Tuck Position the needle is raised and old loop is on the latch of the needle.

3. Clearing position The needle is raised higher to clear the loop from the latch.
The needle reached at the top of the cam and old loop is on the stem of the
needle.

4. Yarn Feeding Position The needle is lowered with old loop new yarn is being
fed to the open hook of the needle.

5. Latch Closing position The needle is lowered further and the old loop closes
the latch trapping the new yarn inside the hook.

6. Knock over position ( loop forming) the needle is lowered still further and
old loop slides over the trapped new yarn inside the hook, forming a new loop by
completing the knitting cycle. Knitting cycle is completed with the new loop in the
hook of the needle.
 The knitting action
1. Rest position 2. Tuck Position 3. Clearing position 4. Yarn Feeding
Position

5. Latch Closing position 6. Knock over position ( loop forming)

Weft Knitting
 Single Jersey or Plain
fabric
A fabric in which the knitted loops are the same sort and meshed in the same
manner
Single jersey is the simplest to knit and it can be produced either on circular or
flat machines by means of one set of needles which draw their loops to only
one side of the fabric.
The fabric has one appearance on the face side and a different one on the
reverse. The side on which the straight parts of the stitches appear in V
formation is called the face side ( Technical Face) and the reverse side
( Technical Back ) has twin rows of opposed semi circles.
 Properties Of Single Jersey
Simplest knit structure.
Face side smooth and sheen.
Back side rough and dull.
Lighter fabric.
Economical.
Easily ravels at both the ends.
Highly extensible in length and width.
The fabric curls towards the face at the top and bottom and
towards the back at the sides.
Laddering is very common in these fabrics.
Knitted loops in plain knit fabrics tend to distort easily under
tension which helps to give a form fitting and comfort due to
property of elastic.
 Purl Fabric
Purl fabric is produced by drawing face
and reverse loops at alternate courses,
where odd number of courses have all
reverse loops and even number of
courses have all face loops.
It can be done on either flat or circular
machine.
Several purl structures can be produced
be arranging the face and reverse loops
in different orders.
Properties Of Purl
Both sides of the fabric are similar in
appearance to the reverse side of the
single jersey fabric
Ravels from both ends
Twice the thickness of the plain jersey
Rate of production is low
Almost equal extensibility in length
and width
Most suitable for childrens garments,
blankets shawls and scarf etc.
 Rib Fabric
A fabric in which both back
and face loops occur along
the course, but all the loops
contained with in any wale
are of the same types
A rib structure implies a
knitted fabric with face and
back loops occurring in the
same courses but not in the
same wale
Rib fabric can be produced
on V bed machine and
footwear machine.
Properties Of Rib
Double Face or Reversible fabric
Similar cord appearance in each
side
Thicker and heavier fabric
Ravels only at end knitted last
Lies flat without curl
Excellent width way elasticity
Form fitting.
 Interlock Fabric
Interlock is the name given to a double faced rib based
structure containing of two rib fabrics interlocked together.
The production of interlock fabric needs two needle beds,
having long and short needles arranged alternately on both
the beds.
Two feeders are required to knit a single repeat of interlock
and also cam systems are arranged accordingly.
Properties Of Interlock
Both sides of the fabric have an
appearance like face side of the single
jersey fabric. It is a reversible fabric as
rib one.
The structure do nor curl at edges when
laid flat on surface
Horizontal and vertical stripes can be
produced by using coloured yarns
The fabric ravels only from the end
knitted last
The rate of production is low.