STITCH PROPERTIES

Stitch size
Stitch length Stitches per inch (spi)

High spi

short stitches: High qualityPotential problems

(seam pucker or weaken fabric).Higher spi, the
more time and thread, high cost.
Low spi

long stitches: Lower qualityProblems: Less

durable,less thread, less cost
 Stitch width
Distance between the outermost lines of stitches.
overedge, zigzag, and cover stitches (1/4
inch)Refers to the horizontal span covered in the
formation ofone stitch. Width dimensions
require multiple needles or lateral movement of
thread carriers ( needle bars, loopers,
andspreaders)
Stitch depth

Distance between the upper and lower surface of

the stitch Example: Blind stitches
 Thread Tension
Too much tension, a tight thread causes: Seam
pucker, uneven stitches and damaged fabric.
Too little tension causes: Excessive looping or loose

and uneven stitches. Must have some tension in

order for the stitch to form properly.
Thread tension affects stitch formation in 2ways:

The balance of force on the threads that form the

stitch.
The degree of compression on the fabric created by

the threads as a stitch is formed.

 Stitch Consistency
The uniformity with which each stitch is formed
in a row of stitches.
There must be compatibility of fabric, stitch and
seam type, needle, thread, and machine setting.
 PROCESSES OF STITCH
FORMATION
Intralooping
Intralooping is the passing of one loop
of thread through another loop of the
same thread supply. An example of this
is the single thread chainstitch

Interlooping
When one loop of thread is passed
through a loop formed by a separate
thread supply, this is called
interlooping: an example is double lock
chainstitch.

Interlacing
Interlacing occurs when a thread is
passed around or over a separate
thread supply or a loop of that supply,
for example in lockstitch.
CLASS 100 (SINGLE THREAD
CHAIN STITCH
FEATURES
A piece of thread is interlaced like a chain under the
cloth and the stitches are formed as knitted.
Only single component of thread is used, i.e needle
thread.
Needle with blind loopers are used.
Each loop is dependent on the previous loop for its
constructions.
STITCH PROPERTIES

APPEARANCE

EXTENSIBILITY

STRENGTH
STITCH FORMATION PROCESS
APPLICATION AREAS
Basting and rough garment assembly.
It can be used for button attaching and button
hole making for the low quality garments.
For waistband attachment on the skirts with

elasticated threads.
For knitwear assembly, specially for attaching
collars and cuffs.
SUBCLASSES OF CLASS 100

101: SINGLE NEEDLE CHAIN STITCH

103: SINGLE NEEDLE BLIND STITCH
104: SINGLE NEEDLE CHAIN STITCH
SINGLE NEEDLE CHAIN STITCH

APPLICATION AREAS:
Basting, Button Sewing,
Button holing and
decorative purpose
Single needle stitch is used
Normally when easy
withdrawl of thread is
requirede.g. Basting, since
stitch can so easily come
undone, it is essential to
leave an adequate length of
thread at the end of the
stitch formation to prevent
running back.
SINGLE NEEDLE BLIND STITCH
 SINGLE NEEDLE CHAIN STITCH

The stitch formation is

widely used for attaching
buttons, snap fastners,
etc. These machines
have a fixed cycle of
stitches.
 HAND STITCHES

Features:
A single thread is used for making this
stitch class.
Fabric plies are responsible for holding
down the sewing thread on to the fabric
layers.

STITCH PROPERTIES
Strength

Seam performance
Appearance
 Thread Typical
Stitch Class
Count Uses

Basting.
202 Class One Thread
Repairs

205 Class One Thread Topstitching

 LOCK STITCHES
FEATURES:
Interlacing process
Two components of sewing threads are
used.
Bobbin thread is used in prewound package.
A rotary hook catches the needle thread loop
as it passes around the bobbin and interlocks
the 2 threads.
Lock stitch machine is used & different
thread carriers are used to reduce the sewing
thread abrasion and frictional contact with
machine.
Consumes least amount of thread. Because of
tightest and most secure stitch
STITCH PROPERTIES
Strength
Appearance

Extensibility

Stitch production level

ADVANTAG
ES
There are several advantages in using this stitch.
neat appearance

useful in applications where the stitching should not

be obvious; alternatively it can be used as

a decorative stitching feature.
reversible strong & secure (the seam does not

unravel or runback easily if the threads are cut or

damaged).
versatile and can be used in a wide range of
applications, from stitching cotton blouses to leather
upholstery.
Disadvantages:
production stoppages required to change the bobbins.
STITCH FORMATION PROCESS
TIMING CYCLE
APPLICATIONS:

For top stitching on collars and cuffs.

Open fabric sewing accomodating fabrics
of different widths.
For small trims and components
attachment
Used for woven and low quality cut stitch
knitted garments.
Top stitching on other fashion details along
with the applique work
 SUBCLASSES OF CLASS 300

zigzag lockstitches (304, 308,315)

Used to sew athletic wear and
appliqus, attach lace on lingerie,
and decorative stitches.
Used to make bar tacks,
buttonholes.
STITCH CLASS400
Features:
Two components of threads are used, one is
needle thread and other is looper thread.
Eyed loopers are used.

Interlacing & interlooping processes are used.

Stitch 401 is the simplest kind member of class 400

and stitch 406 is most commonly used member of
class400.
STITCH PROPERTIES
Appearance

Durability

Compared to the 100 class

the 400 classis more
durable and used
extensively on apparel.
Extensibility
STITCH FORMATION PROCESS
APPLICATION AREAS
Used for woven as well as knitted fabrics and
garments.
High quality button hole making and button
attaching process.
For trims and components attachment.

Rib collars and cuffs attachment.

Assembly of high-end tailored garments.

ADVANTAGES:
Strength & extensibility, Chainstitch uses almost twice as
much thread as lockstitch, making the stitches extensible and
stronger.
Reduces seam pucker as the stitch is set underneath the
fabric rather then between the fabric layers.
All these factors contribute to increased production.
DISADVANTAGES:
Runback: the seams can unravel or runback easily if the
threads are cut or one of them is damaged. The seam can
also runback from the finished end. To reduce this problem
the seam should be over-sewn or bar-tacked
 SUBCLASSES OF CLASS400
The 401 (two-thread chain stitch, or
double-locked chain stitch
Features:
Appearance is the same as the 101
(single thread chain stitch), but the 401
has a loop formation on the underside
and more durable.
For example :-
The chain stitch elongates when
extended.
Good for setting elastic in waist bands
or decorative stitching on belts.
Parallel rows of stitches for lapped
side seams of woven shirts and jeans.
The 402 (Cording stitch):
Used for stitching permanent creases.
2 needle threads that produce twoparallel
rows of stitching on the face of thefabric.
The 404 (zigzag chain stitch)
More elastic than 401.
For example : decorative stitching T
The 406 and 407 ( Cover stitches)
The stitch type 406 is used to form hems
on knit garments, necklines of T-shirts.

The 407 is similar except 3 needle threads

and has more stretch. (for undergarments).
 STITCH CLASS 500
FEATURES:
Known as overlock or overedge or neatening stitches.
Two types of operation performed

Fabric edge trimming

Stitch placement

This class of stitches are formed on overedge or overlock

machines j.e also called as serger or serging machines.
This is also formed on merrowing machines.( Joseph Merrow)

Used for edge neatening purpose.

Two loopers are used & these are mounted on the opposite side.
one of the sets of loopers has a stroke translating and other is
below the throat plate.
Special type of throat plate and machine bed is used to cover the
fabric edges.
STITCH PROPERTIES

Appearance
Strength

Extensibility (300%)

Production (1500 stitches/min.)

Stitch length vary from 0-5mm.

STITCH FORMATION PROCESS
STITCH FORMATION PROCESS
TIMING CYCLE
APPLICATION AREAS
Used for edge neatening, hemming.
Used for decorative edge neatening of fabrics.

Safety stitches are used for joining as well as edge

neatening, where class 400 providing strength to
seam & class 500 provide edge neatening and also
a degree of extensibility.
Used for elastic attachment in innerwear.

Used for seaming as well as edge neatening in

cardigans in knitwear.
DISADVANTAGES
Cant be used to attach patch pockets or for top
stitching as it would trim along the seam line thus
destroying the fabric.
High amount of threads are used.
504
STITCH CLASS 504
512 AND 514 (MOCK SAFETY
STITCHES)
FEATURES:
This stitch type is often referred to as a four-thread mock safety
stitch. This chain stitch formation uses two needles and four
threads to secure a seam. The seam distance can be up to 6mm
with the left needle closing the inner seam and the right needle
protecting the fabric edge.
This stitch is used predominately in the woven garment industry
for seaming and neatening the edges shirts and blouses.
It is often an economical choice as looks like a five-thread seam,
although only four threads are used in total.
However, mock safety stitch 5I2 is rarely used today as it
presented many quality and production issues, such as seam
pucker and thread breakage, largely due to the balance of the
thread tension. It is still available but manufacturers are
replacing this stitch formation with the better 514 classification.
APPLICATION AREAS OF STITCH
CLASS 512 & 514
This chain stitch is used widely
in both the knitted and woven
garment industries
for seaming and neatening the

edges of cut and sew.

knitwear, lingerie, underwear,
sportswear and dancewear
products, t-shirts, children's
wear, shirts and blouses.
SAFETY STITCHES (515, 516, 519)
Combination of an over edge stitch
and class 400 chain stitch.
OBJECTIVES:
Fabric ply joining
Edge neatening
Combination of 401 & 504
Combination of 401 & 503
Combination of 406 & 504

For example : shirts, jackets,

blouses, andjeans
600
Stitch class 600 Cover stitch (flat-lock orflat
seam stitches .
Covering chain stitch utilizes 3 components of
threads. Needle thread one looper thread and
one cover thread. The cover thread lies on the top
surface of the stitch line and is secured by the
needle threads. The looper threads interloop with
all of the needle threads on the underside of the
stitch line.
Class 400 stitches can be converted to class 600
stitches with the use of top cover threads.
TIMING CYCLE
 602 and 605 are strong,
elastic stitches.
APPLICATIONS
Applications: This stitch type is used to reduce
seam impression on the wearer's skin or on outer
garments. It is used in fashion sportswear.