MICRO-BLADING

INTRODUCTION
WHAT IS MICRO-BLADING?

Micro-Blading is a re-discovery and further development of a manual, asian

pigmentation technique, without the need of a pigmentation unit.
The difference between this method and the method with a pigmentation unit is that
single hair strokes will not bleed into the skin and therefore they can be drawn
extremely fine.
PERMANENT MAKE-UP
vs
MICRO-BLADING
A comparison of pigmentation methods
PERMANENT MAKE-UP compared
to MICRO-BLADING
ADVANTAGES OF MICRO-BLADING

- Each hairline can be drawn extremely precise

- Evenly shaped hairlines already with the first pigmentation round

- Will always keep a finely defined optic

- A different pigmentation technique of the skin : Cut vs Needeling

- Hairlines remain in more defined lines even after the skin is closed again (no
bleeding)
 PERMANENT MAKE-UP with a
Pigmentation unit

With the pigmentation module

lines are formed by means of a
multitude of single points of
penetration with needles which
are placed next to each other.
This is what happens in the skin ....

This is what happens when we pigment with a

pigmentation unit:
Even with the finest needles used, we create a multitude of single channels
with the Permant Make-up modules to embed the colour into the skin.
Pigments are embedded on the dot so to speak, which results in a
washed out optic as a final result.
These channels can result in a higher surface injury as the Blade just
places an exact cut, the line with needles however is created by many dots.
Micro-Blading

A Blading Cut as a comparison to

a poin-by-point needle technique
This is what happens in the skin ....

This is what happens during pigmention with the Micro-

Blading technique:
The Blade literally draws a cut into the skin. Even so it appears much rougher
at first, the skin is less traumatized in comparison to the Permanent Make-
up with a pigmentation unit.

Due to this precise and long cut, colour can be embedded more evenly and
less colour is lost during the healing process.
 PERMANENT MAKE-UP compared
to MICRO-BLADING

ADVANTAGES OF MICRO-BLADING
Each hairline can be drawn extremely precise.

Colours can penetrate ideally due to the precise

and extremely fine cut.

Hairlines will remain extremely fine even after the

healing process (no bleeding)
Basics in dermatology
Influences on the Micro-Blading

Skin regeneration

The renewal of the epidermis is very important for the

Micro-Blading technique:
The formation of new skin cells occurs in the basal layer,
the lowest layer of the epidermis.

The basal layer permanently forms new and fully

functional skin cells. These cells are pushed up and are
present in the upper 3 layers of the epidermis in a necrotic
stage.

The epidermis renews itself every 28 days approximately.

(cycle: approx. 28 days).

Therefore pigments have to be embedded into the dermis,

which is located below the epidermis.

Ideal: Penetration approx. between 0,08 and 0,15 mm

Influences on the Micro-Blading

Diseases
An acute illness or a weakened immune system are affecting the skins
reaction. Diabetics, haemophiliacs etc. have a different wound healing process
as healthy people. This fact effects the pigmentation process. Please consult a
physician if questionable skin conditions, previous medical conditions, chronic
or long-term illnesses are encountered.
Medication
Blood thinner (Aspirin, Marcumar, etc.) have a negativ effect on the result and
can slow down the healing process; garlic has a similar effect! Pay attention to
the anamnesis questionnair and the form of consent.

Infections
Have to be avoided at all costs during the aftercare.
Therefore it is extremely important to instruct clients in protection and care
measures after the pigmentation.
Influences on the Micro-Blading

Stimulating substances
Caffeine influences the autonomic nervous system. It increases the blood
pressure which causes a stronger blood flow which results in a higher
sensitivity to pain as well as increased bleeding and lymph flow.
Therefore refrain from drinking coffee before and after the treatment as well as
any other stimulating substances (for example caffein contained in tea.
Mechanical influences
Newly pigmented skin has to be protected against mechanical influences
Injury to the pigmentation crust leads to an interference of the result
Avoid bathing, swimming, sports or visits to the sauna after Micro-Blading.
Influences on the Micro-Blading

Pigmentation crust
The cutting line fills with lymph liquid and excess colour, or even blood which
results in the formation of a pigmentation crust.
Suitable aftercare products keep this crust soft, minimize the risk of the
pigments falling out and support the natural healing process.

Care products
Aftercare creams protect new pigmentations against drying out or becoming
soggy.

Wrong cosmetic products used during the first few days after pigmentation
can damage the results: for example microdermabrasion, peelings, fruit acid
treatments, AHA-products, certain build-up care products (pH-Value)
Contraindication
Clarify during the consultation
Contraindication

As a Micro-Blading specialist you carry a large

responsibility!

If in doubt decline a treatment!

Always consult with a dermatologist or physician if there are health concerns or

unclear skin conditions. We can only list frequently occuring symptoms as
contraindications. Talk to your clients about existing illnesses and start the
treatment only after the go-ahead from a physician.
 Contraindication

Avoid treatment in the case of:

(Make sure you have a signed form of consent. )

- Haemophilia - Botox/Injections (at the earliest after 6 weeks)

- Diabetes - Signs of unhealthy looking skin.
- Pregnancy - Clients under the influence of alcohol or clients that have
consumed drugs
- Acute infections - Acute or chronic illnesses
- Certain allergies
- Immune deficiencies - Extensive correctional work (Responsibility always lies
- Recent organ transplantations with the pigmentation artist. Corrections of other
- Cancer, tumors pigmentation artists are often unpredictable).
- Chemotherapy
- Acute infections of the skin
Architecture of eyebrows
The golden cut
The golden cut

The golden cut is an age-old beauty formula.

Everything that has a partitioning ratio within

the range of 1,618 is considered beautiful.

The golden cut is found in nature,

architecture and works of art from ancient
times right up to modern art.
 The golden Caliper

Thanks to the golden Caliper we can ideally align the

proportions of the golden cut onto eyebrows.

The application of the mapping of eyebrows

according to the golden cut is a very helpful method
to achieve the optimal proportional ratio of eyebrows.

It takes multiple applications until all necessary steps

are internalized.

But, whoever sticks to each single step will be

rewarded with a perfect eyebrow drawing.
 Measuring
with the
Golden Caliper

The road to perfect eyebrows

Measuring with the Golden Caliper

1. Highlight the hairline with a skin marker.

2. Highlight the line of the lower lid on the ridge of the nose
3. Place the outer legs of the caliper onto these points (in a way that the shorter
distance is at the bottom) and mark the point of the middle leg. This point
marks the highest point of the eyebrow.
4. Push the caliper together and place it in a way that the outer legs rest on MP2
and MP3 (the shorter distance has to be on top). This point marks the lowest
point of the eyebrow.
Measuring with the Golden Caliper

5. Determine the middle of the bridge of the nose. Place the outer leg of the caliper
there. The other outer leg points to the inner start of the iris.
6. When placing the caliper with this setting at the center of the base of the nose
you will be shown the start of the eyebrow with the middle leg (larger distance).
Repeat left and right.
7. Now determine the length, the turning point of the arch of the eyebrow by placing
the caliper with the outer leg onto the center of the base of the nose.

Pull the other leg up to the outer corner of the eye. When placing the caliper with this
setting (start of eyebrow) you will automatically get the highest point of the eyebrow
as well as the end of the eyebrow. The short distance is always on the outside.
The new generation of the hairline technique

3D & hyper realistic eyebrows

 The new generation of the hairline technique

The new generation of hairline drawing is a natural

appearing imitation of real eyebrows which orientates itself
on the growthline of the actually present eyebrows.

Hairlines do not necessarily run from the lower edge of the

eyebrow up to the upper edge of the eyebrow. They are
rather drawn in several layers of hairlines, on top of each
other as well as intertwined.

There is no fixed diagram to be followed we rather imitate

the growthline of the present eyebrow.

For the 3D hairline technique we orientate ourselves on

the four standard types of hairgrowth directions of
eyebrows. (refer to eyebrow styles).
Dos & Donts
modern hairline techniques

DO
- Work slightly overlapping at a sharp angle
- Make sure hair lines are even in length
- Angle of inclination is slanting towards the outer edge
- Work hair lines with a delicate sweep

DON'T
- Do not work parallel hair lines
- Avoid points of interception
- Do not work hair lines too short
 Procedure of Micro-Blading

Creating Micro-Blading
The most important part is to determine the contour, the frame of
the eyebrow. Because once the frame is fixed the basic form is
set and can now be completed with hair lines.

During the first round the colour is not being wiped off instead it
remains on the skin. This way the colour can penetrate better into
the created cuts. In the meantime the opposite site can be worked.

What do I have to pay attention to when creating 3D hair

lines?

As a first step the clients eyebrow has to be examined carefully.

Pay careful attention to the direction of growth of the natural hair (if
present). The direction of growth is crucial for the direction of the
painted hair lines.

ALWAYS start with the directional hair lines at the outer edge of the pre-drawn eyebrow.
 Procedure of Micro-Blading

1.) Pull the first hair lines starting at the lower contour over
the arch of the eyebrow right to the end of the eyebrown.
There are two work techniques to choose from:
- steep upwards
- with a slight incline tending towards horizontally along
the contour
2.) Draw the hair lines along the upper contour.
Here you have three possible ways to choose from:
- Steps (for a horizontal direction)
- Herringbone (for a downwards-direction)
- Upright (for a upwards-direction)
3.) Start with the second round and draw hair lines into the
intermediate spaces. In order to achieve a natural
appearance hair lines can i.e. should touch each other.
However it is important to keep the golden rules in mind
(see Dos & Donts).
 Procedure of Micro-Blading
Stretching techniques:

In comparison to the common Permanent Make up method with a

pigmentation unit there is more pressure exerted onto the needle with
the Micro-Blading method.

It is very important to stretch the skin extremely well in order for the
blades to slide easily across the skin.

The skin should be stretched into three directions.

Eyebrows are being strechted the long way with the thumb and
middle finger in addition the width is being countered with the pointer
finger. (This way an optimal colour penetration is guaranteed)

Small areas, like the 3-5 front hair lines are to be stretched
separately.

Whilst the colour mask is being massaged in with circular

movements, the eyebrow is being stretched laterally in order to
ensure a better colour penetration.

If possible pull the eyebrow up towards the forehead.

Attention! Dont press onto your customers eyeball

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Different types of hair growth

The ARCHITECTURE
OF EYEBROWS
 Type 1.1 Upwards direction
With this growth type the direction of the hair
grows predominantely upwards.
However towards the outer end the hair
growth becomes flatter and lies nearly
horizontally towards the end of the eyebrow.
The hair along the lower contour reaches
approx. up to half the hight. They are being
drawn first.
Afterwards the hair at the upper contour is
being drawn from the top towards the
middle in order to complement the contour.
In a second round the intermediate spaces
are being filled with hair lines.
 Type 1.2 Upwards direction

Change the arch of the hair along the

lower contour..
This way a exceptionally natural look is
being achieved.
 Type 2.1 Downwards direction

With this very common growth type the

direction of hair is initially upwards with
a delicate horizontal incline.
The direction of growth turns in the last
third and the hair there is growing
downwards. The downwards growing
hair in combination with the filling hair
forms a type of herringbone pattern.
In order to avoid an abstract optic you
should provide each hair with a subtle
sweep.
 Type 2.2 Downwards direction

With this variation of the downwards

direction the arch of the lower contour
hair line is being curved in the opposite
direction.
This way a very lively and natural
appearing look is being created.
These curved hair lines are literally
intertwined with the interim hair.
 Type 3 Horizontal

With this very common direction of hair

growth, hair lines are mainly drawn in a
more horizontal angle.
Starting at the lower contour it is
recommended, for this variety, to work
in layers (steps) upwards towards the
upper contour.
It is quite ok to leave bigger gaps in
between your base hair lines.
During the first round they mainly serve,
just like in all the other types, to define
the shape!
 Type 4 Asian-Style

This rather rarely appearing, pure

eyebrow style is characterized by its
early and very defined upwards trend.

The hair is changing very quickly from

an initial upwards trend into a horizontal
angle.

The upper contour shows, shortly

before the arch, a pronounced declining
direction of growth.
Science of colour Basics of the colour theory
 The Colour circle

The colour circle according to Ewald

Herings complementary colour
theory

The historical theory of the perception

of colours by the human eye.

According to Hering no mixed colours

exist that could be labeled as yellowish
blue or reddish green:
Yellow and blue as well as green and
red eliminate each other.
 Complimentary colour

Colour circle according to Ewald

Herings complementary colour
theory

Herings assumption:
Three separate perceptual processes
through the retinal:

- Bue-Yellow
- Red-Green
- Black-White
 Shades of brown

Definition of brown and shades of brown

Brown originates from mixing a warm colour (yellow, orange, red) with the colour
black: brown is a broken colour.

Colour shades defined as brown occupy a relatively large part in the colour space.

Specifically light shades of brown are being refered to as natural coloured.

Brown can be mixed with a multitude of colours.

However when mixing with cold colours and green, colour shades arise which are
assigned towards shades of Olive.

Soft Coffee Connifer Tender ebony

Caramel bean Forest cappuccino
brown
 Shades of brown
Definition of brown and shades of brown

The colour groups within the shades of brown

Shades of brown alternate between a neutral yellow

and wine-red at a brightness of below 50 %.

Red shades of brown have a saturation of approx.

30%, yellow shades of brown of approx. 70 %.

Therefore yellow shades of brown are being more

easily perceived as an independent colour. With the
same amount of black - red shades of brown are
rather seen as red.

Soft Coffee Connifer Tender ebony

Caramel bean Forest cappuccino
brown
Colour selection

Characteristics when Micro-Blading

Colour selection when Micro-Blading
The choice of pigments is an extremely important factor in order to achieve a natural looking result.
Micro-Blading can be worked as delicately as possible but if the colour is choosen too dark or too
grey, the most delicate hair line drawing will be insufficient.

Based on the procedure there are two important factors to pay attention to:
1. The colour always develops cooler in the skin
2.In some circumstances a darkening of the colour by one shade is possible

This has to be considered when choosing the colour !

In comparison to the conventional pigmenting with a unit there are several facts to pay attention to
when choosing a colour for Micro-Blading:
1. Mineral colours are ideal
2. Colour pigments should not be too liquid
3. Do not choose the colour too dark as a darkening of the colour is possible
4. Always choose a slightly warmer colour. Colours are developing cooler with Micro-Blading (also
with unorganic colours)

In order to create a hyper realistic eyebrow it is recommended to work with 2-3 different shades of
colour.
It is also possible to introduce further colours during rework.
 Organic compared to Anorganic
Anorganic pigments
- Excellent durability
- High opacity
- Fade reddish
- Appear matt in the skin
- Do not add shades of Olive (due to
their share of iron oxide they fade warm
/ reddish)
Organic pigments
- More brilliant, radiant colours
- Easy embedding into the skin
due to their fine pigment structure
- Fade ashy / greyish
- Need to be chosen much warmer as
they are fading notably cooler
- Fade more evenly
Colour spectrum
for Micro-Bladers
 Handpiece
Every Micro-Blader should possess at least two to
three hand pieces in order to ensure the highest
degree in safety and hygiene.
All single-row blades can be inserted into
commercially available handpieces.
 Blades

Micro-Blades are the core of Micro-Blading.

The sterile packaged blades are made of high quality, sterile steel and are
available in different sizes.
Blades used for eyebrows usually have 7 18 needles which are sloped
and arranged behind each.
 Blades
And their areas of application
 Blade #14
The blade for beginners. This blade can be used
for nearly every eyebrow.
Ideal for beginners. Due to ist larger contact area
the risk of working too deep is reduced.
Especially suitable for fine hair line drawings and
for creating acurate and delicately curved
eyebrows.

Ideal to draw base hair lines for a new set.

In combination with the #7 blade for extremely
fine 3D-effects in eyebrow reconstruction or in
cases of extremely sparse hair growth.
 Blade #12

Standard blade. This blade can be used for just

about any type of hairline drawings.
It is especially suitable for finest hairline
drawings in order to create accurate and
delicately curved eyebrows.
Ideal to draw base hair lines for a new set.
In combination with the #7 blade for extremely
fine 3D-effects in eyebrow reconstruction or in
cases of extremely sparse hair growth.
 Blade #7

This blade is especially suitable for extremely

acurate hairline drawings and to create delicate
and very fine eyebrows.
Ideal to exactly catch the same hairline during
rework or to draw fine hairlines in between gaps.
Attention: due to the smaller contact area, less
pressure is necessary.
Beginners should work very cautiously with this
blade in order to avoid cutting too deep.
 U-Shape #18

This blade has 18 very fine U-shaped needles

which are arranged behind each other.

This blade is very versatile and is especially

suitable for advanced Micro-Blading-Artists to
draw very fine, individually curved and especially
natural appearing hairline drawings.
Equally suitable for new sets and rework as well
as drawing base hairlines or soft transition areas.
Ideal for men, reconstructions or very sparse hair
growth.
LCN Starter set
Thank you for your attention!