process in which the yarn is fed into knitting zone, parallel to the fabric selvedge. Warp and weft knitting are similar fabric manufacturing processes as both utilise needles to form and intermesh loops. As the name implies, the loop formation is warp wise, i.e., vertically upward. Unlike, weft knitting, most of the warp knitting machine is open width/flat knitting. Warp knitting forms fabric by interlacing loops of yarn, but vertically down the length of the fabric in contrast to weft knitting. In warp knitting, each needle loops have its own thread, means there is one warp for one wale, and it also differs in the way in which the yarn is fed to the needles. Further, the source of yarn on a warp-knitting machine is a warp beam containing a very large number of parallel yarns, similar to a warp beam on a loom. Sometimes, more than one warp is needed, depending upon the fabric design. In warp knitting, however, each needle is supplied with a yarn (or yarns) and all the needles knit at the same time producing a complete course at once so the total number of individual yarns is equal to the total stitches in a row. The needles produce parallel rows of loops simultaneously that are interlocked in a zigzag pattern The stitches on the face of the fabric appear vertically, but at a slight angle; and the stitches on the back appear horizontally as floats at a slight angle. Advantages of warp knit fabric Dimensional stability In general, warp knitted fabric are more stable than weft knitted fabric. By modifying its structure (by weft insertion), the warp knitted can be as good as woven fabric Fabric tightness The warp knitted fabrics are thinner than double knitted fabrics and the loops are smaller than double knitted fabric Fabric appearance Most regular warp knitted fabrics give a nice, clean and balanced loop on surface. Normally the technical face and back for warp knitted are different Yarn cant unroved Weft knitting Warp knitting The loops are formed across the width The loops are formed vertically down of fabric the length of fabric It possible to knit with ONE thread Warp beam is used Staple as well as Filament yarns can be Filament Yarn can be worked worked Successfully. Successfully. Latch Needles are used Latch, Beard or Compound Needles are used Less Versatile M/c. Versatile M/c Speed reduces with Design change in Change in Pattern does not affect the Cams Speed of M/c Fabric Quality is not Consistent Fabric Quality is Consistent Loops are not Uniform Loops are Uniform Stretch in Both Direction Stretch in Widthwise Direction Less Dimensional Stability More Dimensional Stability Cheaper To Produce Costlier To Produce A warp knitted structure is made up of two parts. Overlap The first is the stitch itself, which is formed by wrapping the yarn around the needle and drawing it through the previously knitted loop. This wrapping of the yarn is called an overlap. The diagram shows the path taken by the eyelet of one yarn guide travelling through the needle line, making a lateral overlap (shog) and making a return swing. This movement wraps the yarn around the needle ready for the knock-overdisplacement. Underlap The second part of stitch formation is the length of yarn linking together the stitches and this is termed the underlap, which is formed by the lateral movement of the yarns across the needles. At the back side of the fabric, the diagonal line of yarns (i.e. underlaps) run right and left throughout in a zigzag manner. These underlaps play an important role in influencing the pattern effects. The length or extent of these underlap floats and their direction of running cause a variety of design possibilities in warp knitting. The recognition of laps in a knitted fabric is the most important distinguishing feature identifying warp knits. Basic combination of overlap and underlaps All warp knit fabric structures are composed of both overlap and underlap: If the underlap and overlap are in opposite directions then the stitch formed would have a closed character
If the underlap and overlap are in the same
direction, then the stitch formed will have an open character Warp Knitting Machines Types of warp knitting machines The classification of warp knitting machines is based on a number of factors such as The type of the needles used Numbers of guide bars Machine speed Machine complexity The warp beams To ensure uniform conditions of warp feed and tension, the yarn ends are supplied from flanged beams attached to shafts that turn to unwind the warp sheet in parallel formation. For convenience of handling, a number of beams may be attached to a beam shaft to achieve the full width of the warp sheet; for example, a warp sheet 84 inches (213 cm) wide might be supplied from a full-width beam, from two beams each 42 inches (106 cm) wide, or from four beams each 21 inches (53cm) wide. The guide bar Each guide bar is normally supplied with a warp sheet from its own beam shaft to suit its requirements of threading and rate of warp feed for its particular lapping movement. The guides Warp guides are thin metal plates drilled with a hole in their lower end through which a warp end may be threaded if required. They are held together at their upper end as a single unit in a metal lead and are spaced to the same gauge as the needles. Single needle bar structures A swinging motion and a shogging movement act at right-angles to each other in order for their threads to form overlap and underlap paths that combine as one thread path around the needles. The swinging motion is in an arc from the front of the machine to the hook side and a later return swing. It occurs between adjacent needles and is a fixed, collective, and automatic action for all the guide bars as they pivot on a common rocker shaft. It is derived, in a similar manner to the needle and other element bar motions, from the main cam-shaft and is adapted via levers, pivots and linkages. The two swinging movements produce the two side limbs when combined with the overlap shog. When the overlap is omitted, the guides swing idly between adjacent needles and achieve no useful purpose. The sideways shogging movement that occurs parallel to the needle bar produces the underlaps and overlaps. The occurrence, timing, direction and extent of each shog is separately controlled for each guide bar by its pattern chain links or pattern wheel attached to a horizontal pattern shaft driven from the main cam-shaft but set at right angles to it at one end of the machine. The guide bars are shogged independently sideways, parallel to each other, along linear bearings that support them in the swinging frame assembly, which is keyed to the guide bar rocker-shaft. A shogging movement can occur when the guides have swung clear of the needle heads on the back or front of the machine. On the hook side it will produce an overlap and on the side remote from the hooks it will produce an underlap. The timing of the shog during the 360 degrees of the main cam-shaft revolution will thus determine whether an overlap or underlap is produced. The pattern mechanism The shogging movement is initiated by varying the radius of the continuously turning pattern shaft, either in the form of different heights of pattern links that pass over a pattern drum attached to the shaft, or in the form of carefully-shaped solid metal circular cams, termed pattern wheels, attached to it An increase in height from one link to the next produces a thrust against the end of the guide bar, shogging it positively into the machine; a decrease will produce a negative shog towards the pattern shaft as the result of the action of a return spring. A constant height will produce no shog and the guide bar will continue to swing through the same needle space. The periphery of the pattern wheel or chain track is scanned by a roller that is linked by a flexible, ball- jointed push-rod to the end of a guide bar. The underside of the rod near the roller is supported on a slide that moves freely on a metal surface as shogging occurs. The drive for the pattern shaft is obtained from the main cam-shaft, via bevel gears and a universal joint, to a worm that drives the worm-wheel of the pattern shaft. The ratio of cam-shaft speed to pattern shaft speed is usually 16 : 1; therefore, 1/16th of the surface of a pattern wheel would represent one course or knitting cycle. Pattern wheels provide accuracy and smooth running at high speeds, but they are only economical for long production runs of the common, simple repeat structures. For fancy structures, frequent changes of pattern, and long pattern repeats, the shogging movements are obtained by assembling a chain of re-usable pattern links. TRICOT MACHINE The main parts of TRICOT MACINE are : The warp beam carrying warp threads. The sley bars which space the warp threads. The tension bar which maintains tension in the warp threads, one bar foe each warp. The knitting element, comprising the warp guides, sinkers, needles & presser bar. The fabric take up rollers which take the fabric from the rollers at a constant rate. The batch roller which winds up the fabric on a large rolls & The crank shaft drive within a case which holds the mechanism for driving the knitting elements. LOOP FORMATION ON TRICOT MACHINE Rest position: It is a start of the knitting cycle. As shown in figure the needles have risen to 2/3 of their full height from knock-over. The sinkers are in forward position, holding the previously formed loops. The presser is withdrawn. Guide bar swing: With the sinkers forward holding down the fabric, the hooks and tongues rise, with the hook rising faster, until the head of the latter is level with the guide holes and is open. As shown in fig, the guide bar swings from the front of the machine to the back of the machine taking the yarn through the gap between two adjacent needles. The needle, sinker and presser remain idle in this position. The overlap and return swing: The guides swing for the overlap and swing to the front of the machine immediately. The hooks and the tongues start to descend with the tongues descending more slowly, thus closing the hook. The rise: Fig shows the second swing in the cycle taking the yarn between adjacent needles back to the front of the machine. At this time the needle bar moves upwards to place the overlap below the open beard on the shank of the needle. The newly fed yarn slips from the hook portion to the needle stem. Pressing: Fig shows that the needle start moving downward and the yarn is trapped in the hook of the needle. The presser bar moving forward to close all the needles. Landing: The sinkers start to withdraw as the needles descend so that the old loop is landed onto the closed hook. Thus the landing is occurred. Knock over: As shown in fig the sinkers start to withdraw as the needles descend so that the old loop is landed onto the closed hook and then knocked over as it descends below the sinker belly. At this point the under lap occurs before the needles begin their upward rise and sinker move forward to hold down the fabric. Tricot fabrics The fabric produced on a tricot machine is called tricot. The simplest fabric is made on a single guide bar machine, and is called tricot jersey. Tricot fabrics are often described by the number of yarn guide bars used to make the fabric, such as two bar fabrics or three-bar fabrics. Although tricot knitting machines have a small number of yarn guide bars, they can make a variety of fabrics. Tricot fabrics are produced in a wide range of fabric weight types, surface textures, and designs and are used in an equally wide range of products. Typical uses for these fabrics, in addition to the popular types used for lingerie, include fabric types for loungewear, waitresses' and medical uniforms, and backing for bonded fabrics, blouses and dresses, men's shirting, slacks, and automobile upholstery fabric RASCHEL MACHINE Raschel machines were developed by Wilhelm Brafuss, it is named after the famous French Actress, Raschel Flex. The raschel knit ranks in importance of production with tricot, but it surpasses it in variety of products, which range from veiling's and laces to power nets for foundation garments to such pile fabrics as carpets. The main Parts of the RASCHEL MACHINE are : The ground beams and pattern beams having an access from front, top and back The tension bar (one for each warp) which maintains tension in the warp threads. Guide bars and guide bar levers and the sley bar. The knitting elements comprising guides, sinkers, needles, latch needles and trick plates. The fabric tension rollers, situated close to the knitting elements. The fabric batch roller & Main drive for the cam shaft. Raschel machines gauge is expressed in the standard E gauge (needles per inch). There is a wide gauge range, from E 1 to E 32. The finest gauge single bed raschel is E 40. It can knit lightweight foundation and swimwear at speeds between 1,900 and 2,200 rpm in a yarn count of approximately 80 dtex. The guide bars are numbered from the front towards the back of the machine. More number of supply beams can be accommodated in raschel knitting so that atleast four 32 inch diameters beams or large numbers of small diameter pattern beams are engaged. Larger number of warp beams necessitates larger number of guide bars with raschel machine. Raschel fabrics are knitted on machines having two to forty-eight guide bars, which accounts for the wide variety of fabrics. Programming the large number of guide bars can be very complex and expensive. The warp sheets are taken through tension rails, which are the tension compensating devices. The fabric is drawn downwards from the needles, almost parallel to the needle bar, at an angle of 120-160 degrees, by a series of take-down rollers. Holding down: In the holding down position as shown in fig. the needle head is just in line with the loop edge of the trick plate. The guide bars are at the front of the machine, completing their under lap shog. The sinker bar moves forward to hold the fabrics down whilst the needle bar starts to rise from knock-over. Clearing: In clearing position, as shown in Fig , the needle bar rises to its full height; the old overlaps slip down onto the stems after opening the latches, which are prevented from flicking closed by latch wires. The sinker bar then starts to withdraw to allow the guide bars to overlap. Overlap: The sinker bar starts to withdraw and the guide bars swing to the back of the machine and then shog for the overlap. Returning swing: As the guide bars swing to the front, as shown in Fig The warp threads wrap into the needle hooks. Latch closing: The needle bar descends so that the old overlaps contact and close the latches, trapping the new overlaps inside. The sinker bar now starts to move forward. Knocking - over and underlap: As the needle bar continues to descend further, its head passes below the surface of the trick-plate, drawing the new overlap through the old overlap which is cast-off. The trick plate supports the old loop and the sinker advance towards the trick- plate, the under lap shog of the guide bar starts. Raschel knitting systems can produce fabrics ranging from fine lace like material to heavy blankets and even carpets. Each of these, of course, is done on different gauges of raschel machines. These knitting systems are capable of producing fabrics with interesting surface effects, almost to the point of being three dimensional. Raschel knits do not stretch significantly and are often bulky; consequently, they are often used as an unlined material for coats, jackets, straight skirts and dress Tricot Machine Raschel Machine Needles Beard Latch or Compound Machine Gauge Finer Gauge 24s-40s Common Gauge 30,40 & 56 No. of Guides bars Two, Three, Four bars Between 4 and 36 Yarn Used Finer continuous Filament Coarser Filament or Yarn Coarser, Decorative Staple Spun Yarn Weight of fabrics Light Weight Heavy Weight Properties More Resilient, Better Drape, Less Resilient, Poor Drape, Higher Bursting Strength, Lower Bursting Strength, Better Dimensional Stability. Poor Dimensional Stability. Soft Hand & Even. Hard Hand & Uneven. Opaque & Tight & Loose Cloth Take up The fabric comes off the The fabric comes off the machine at 90o to the needle machine at 170o to175o the bed needle bed Speed Higher Less Versatility Less Versatile More Versatile