"Functional textiles -- key to a new

era for Asian textile industries

S G Kulkarni

1
 Content
1. Trend of global textile industry development
2. Trend of functional textile technology and
market development
3. Applying function to functional textiles
4. Trend of functional textile technology
development shown in patent map
5. Challenges to functional textiles
6. Conclusion
2
Trend of global textile industry
development
 Leading exporters of textiles, 2000
(Billion dollars and percentage)
Share in world
Value exports/imports Annual percentage change
2000 1980 1990 2000 1990-00 1998 1999 2000
China 16.14 4.6 6.9 10.2 8 -7 2 24
Hong Kong, China 13.44 - - - 5 -11 -6 10
Korea, Rep. of 12.78 4.0 5.8 8.1 8 -15 3 10
Italy 11.96 7.6 9.1 7.6 2 1 -8 0
Taipei, Chinese 11.69 3.2 5.9 7.4 7 -13 -2 7
Germany 11.02 11.4 13.5 7.0 -2 3 -10 -10
United States 10.96 6.8 4.8 7.0 8 0 3 15
Japan 7.02 9.3 5.6 4.5 2 -12 10 6
France 6.76 6.2 5.8 4.3 1 5 -7 -4
Belgium 6.40 - - 4.1 - - - -4
India 5.09 2.1 2.1 3.4 10 -13 12
Pakistan 4.53 1.6 2.6 2.9 5 -7 -1 6
United Kingdom 4.21 5.7 4.2 2.7 0 -3 -17 -6
Turkey 3.67 0.6 1.4 2.3 10 6 -2 6
Indonesia 3.51 0.1 1.2 2.2 11 5 28 16
Above 15 116.90 71.0 76.7 74.5 - - - -

Source:www.wto.org
4
 Leading exporters of clothing, 2000
(Billion dollars and percentage)
Share in world
Value exports/imports Annual percentage change
2000 1980 1990 2000 1990-00 1998 1999 2000
China 36.07 4.0 9.0 18.1 14 -6 0 20
Hong Kong, China 24.22 - - - 5 -4 1 8
Italy 13.22 11.3 11.0 6.6 1 -1 -7 -3
Mexico 8.70 0.0 0.5 4.4 31 17 18 12
United States 8.65 3.1 2.4 4.3 13 1 -6 5
Germany 6.84 7.1 7.3 3.4 -1 7 -3 -12
Turkey 6.53 0.3 3.1 3.3 7 5 -8 0
France 5.43 5.7 4.3 2.7 2 8 -1 -5
India 5.15 1.5 2.3 2.8 8 10 8
Korea, Rep. of 5.03 7.3 7.3 2.5 -4 11 5 3
Indonesia 4.73 0.2 1.5 2.4 11 -9 47 23
United Kingdom 4.11 4.6 2.8 2.1 3 -7 -9 -8
Thailand 3.95 0.7 2.6 2.0 3 -4 -2 14
Belgium 3.94 - - 2.0 - - - -4
Taipei, Chinese 2.97 6.0 3.7 1.5 -3 -6 -10 4
Above 15 125.24 65.6 68.2 63.1 - - - -

Source:www.wto.org
5
 Leading importers of textiles, 2000
(Billion dollars and percentage)

Share in world
Value exports/imports Annual percentage change
2000 1980 1990 2000 1990-00 1998 1999 2000
United States 15.71 4.5 6.2 9.4 9 8 6 10
Hong Kong, China 13.72 - - - 3 -17 -7 9
China 12.83 1.9 4.9 7.7 9 -10 0 16
Germany 9.32 12.1 11.0 5.6 -2 8 -10 -11
United Kingdom 6.91 6.3 6.5 4.1 0 -2 -11 -7
France 6.75 7.2 7.0 4.0 -1 8 -8 -2
Italy 6.12 4.6 5.7 3.7 0 3 -9 2
Mexico 6.10 0.2 0.9 3.6 20 20 41 26
Japan 4.94 2.9 3.8 2.9 2 -25 4 9
Canada 4.13 2.3 2.2 2.5 6 4 -1 3
Belgium 3.63 - - 2.2 - - - -4
Spain 3.32 0.6 1.9 2.0 5 12 -2 -4
Korea, Rep. of 3.00 0.7 1.8 1.9 5 -38 35
Netherlands 2.64 4.0 3.4 1.6 -3 -24 -4 -6
Poland 2.43 0.5 0.2 1.5 26 14 -7 -4
Above 15 89.27 55.4 62.6 53.4 - - - -

Source:www.wto.org
6
 Leading importers of clothing, 2000
(Billion dollars and percentage)
Share in world
Value exports/imports Annual percentage change
2000 1980 1990 2000 1990-00 1998 1999 2000
United States 66.39 16.4 24.1 31.6 9 11 6 13
Japan 19.71 3.6 7.8 9.4 8 -12 11 20
Germany 19.31 19.7 18.2 9.2 -1 1 -7 -10
Hong Kong, China 16.01 - - - 9 -5 3 8
United Kingdom 12.99 6.8 6.2 6.2 6 7 5 4
France 11.48 6.2 7.5 5.5 3 8 -1 -1
Italy 6.07 1.9 2.3 2.9 9 10 2 2
Netherlands 4.83 6.8 4.3 2.3 0 -11 1 -9
Belgium 4.81 - - 2.3 - - - -4
Spain 3.77 0.4 1.5 1.8 9 7 15 2
Canada 3.69 1.7 2.1 1.8 4 8 0 12
Mexico 3.41 0.3 0.5 1.6 20 12 -3 -6
Switzerland 3.22 3.4 3.1 1.5 -1 4 -3 -5
Russian Fed. 2.96 - - 1.4 - -13 -28 29
Austria 2.47 2.2 2.1 1.2 1 2 -6 -12
Above 15 166.83 74.5 83.3 79.4 - - - -

Source:www.wto.org
7
Labourcostcomparisonsinthetextileindustry
2000

J a p a n 26.1
D e n m a rk 22 .3
Sw itz e rla n d 22.2
B e lg iu m 19.6
N eth e rla n d s 1 9.5
G e rm a n y 18 .1
N o rw a y 18.0
S w e d e n 17.0
A u s tria 15.8
Ita ly 1 4.7
C a n a d a 14 .3
U S A 14 .2
F in la n d 14 .1
F ra n c e 13.9
U K 12.7
A u s tra lia 10.9
Ire la n d 10.3
S p a in 8.3
Is ra e l 7 .4
N ewZ e ala n d 7.3
G re e c e 7.2
T a iw a n 7.2
M a lta 6.6
H on gK o n g 6 .1
A rg e n tin a 5.9
Sou thK o re a 5.3
P o rtu g a l 4.3
U ru g u a y 3.6
B ra z il 3.2
Ve n e zu e la 2 .8
T u rk e y 2 .7
H u n g a ry 2 .6
P o la n d 2 .4
M ex ic o 2 .2
CzechR e p u b lic 2 .0
C o lo m b ia 1 .9
M o ro c c o 1 .9
So uthA fric a 1 .8
P e ru 1 .7
T u n is ia 1 .7
S lo va k ia 1 .6
E s to n ia 1 .5
M a u ritiu s 1 .5
T h a ila n d 1 .2
M a la y s ia 1 .1
P h ilip p in e s 1.1
N ig e ria 1 .0
E g y p t 1 .0
C h
In
in
d ia
a
0
0 .7
.6
Source:2001 IAF Seminar
S ri L a n k a 0 .5
Ban g la d e s h 0.4
V ie tn a m 0.4
P a k is ta n 0.4
M ad a g a s c a r 0.4
In d o ne s ia 0.3

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 8
US$/hour
Source:WorldMarketsforSpunY
arns:Forecaststo2010, fromWernerdata
Consumption of textiles and clothing
by selected region, 1980-2005
mn tons
12

10 9.6
1980 1995 2005
8.7
8.3
7.9
8
6.8 7.1

6 5.5
4.8
3.9
4 3.4
2.8
2.0
2

0
USA China European Union Japan
Note: self-sufficiency = mill fibre consumption
as a percentage of final consumption
Source: Textile Outlook International

Source:2001 IAF Seminar 9

Self-sufficiency in final textile consumption
1980 and 2005
(%)
250

1980 2005
200 190
175
160
150
150
121 126
118 118
111
98 92
100 85 82
66
47 52
50

0
USA Japan Former USSR East and SE Asia
EU15 Eastern Europe China South Asia
Note: self-sufficiency = mill fibre consumption
as a percentage of final consumption
Source: Textile Outlook International

10
Source:2001 IAF Seminar
Gap between Capacity and Demand
will be 8.2 million tons in 2005
Supply/Demand of Synthetic Fibers
million tons
40

Over Capacity Idle Capacity

8.2 mill. 6.5 mill.
35
Capacity
39.8 Over Supply 1.7mill.
30 Production
33.3 Consumption
31.6

25 11
Source:World Synthetic Fiber Seminar,2002
 Present status of global
textile market
Demand and supply imbalanced
Asia is the major textile
products and garment exporting
area
Multidirectional development of
textile market
Heavy competing in textile
product market
12
 Trend of global textile industry
Great impact is expected in global textile trade as China enters WTO
Lower tariff, non tariff barrier such as importing limitation could be lifted
Free trade of textile product in 2005
Quota system will be lifted gradually, and finally reaches total free trade
The non price related competing such as quality, design and marketing is
becoming more and more fierce in global textile
Speed up the reorganization of international collaboration structure in textile
industry
The high production cost in developed countries and the generalization of
technology force them to move toward high-tech and high value added
product
The developing countries take advantage of low production cost, and through
collaboration in process to expand their exports. It estimated that developing
countries will account 80% of world textile production after 2000
From fashion oriented R/D to function oriented R/D ; From apparel oriented R&D to non-
apparel oriented R&D

13
 Development focus of textile industry in
developed countries
country Focusing item s
U SA use bio-tech to develop new fiber
new fiber processing technologyhigh speedstable
H igh functionalfiber m aterialR/D and innovation

Japan Singoseim aterial-H ybridized

C om posite functionalfiber m aterialtechnical textile

G erm any Em phasizing on speed,safety,quality and netw ork high-tech

textile m achinery/integrating functionaltextile
H igh-tech textile design and m anufacturing technology

France D evelop fashion design for sm alland proper am ount production

Italy focusing on design and brand im age;delicate processing
technology
H igh-tech textile m achinery

Source:CTI R&D program

 Three new appeals for textile product
Comfort
Light
weight
Medical
sensitivity
application
Basic function Environmental
Soil
Wicking
resistance
friendly
De- Compo
odor site Thermal
function
resistance
Thermo Elasticity resistant
insulation
Health Anti Anti Safety
bacteria static

Matrix structure of Japanese comfort material15

 R&D trend of textile industry in developed countries
Developing focus of EU
h
Te devel opi ng f ocus of each Eur opean count r y i s as
f ol l ows: I t al y and Fr ance ar e f ocusi ng on i nnovat i on;
emphasi zi ng hi gh qual i t y and super i or br and i mage;
Ger many and Swi t zer l and ar e f ocusi ng on hi gh-t ech
t echni cal t ext i l e and t ext i l e equi pment s . Besi des,
ever y count r y pays at t ent i on on envi r onment al
f r i endl y t ext i l e, cl ot hi ng sci encei . e. est abl i shes
new eval uat i on syst em or new st andar det c, and
emphasi zes on hi gh val ue added pr oduct or per sonal i zed
pr oduct .
T
he r ecent r esear ch f ocus of t ext i l e t echnol ogy l ay i n
t he appl i cat i on of nano t echnol ogy i n t ext i l e, t he
appl i cat i on of bi ot ech i n t ext i l e, hi gh-t ech
i nt egr at ed smar t wear ( wear abl e mot her boar d) ,
appl i cat i on of PCM, smar t t ext i l es, et c 16
Asia Role

TIFE 2002,
Textile International Forum and Exhibition 2002,
November 4~6,2002

17
 11/04/2002 ~ 11/06/2002 TIFE Agenda
KeyNote Speech Special Topic Speech Management of Japanese Textile
Industry,Mr. Hiroyuki Iimuro

Theme - Strategy
Development and Investment Strategy of Vietnam Textile Industry in
2000- 2010 Period,Ministry of industry of Vietnam,Senior Official of
Planning and Investment Department,Ms. Nguyen Thu Ngan Vietnam
The Strategy of Korean Textile Industry -- The Vision and Strategy of
Textile and Fashion Industry, Advisor to Mayor of Daegu city for textile
policy,Mr. Hyun-Woo Moon Korea
Development Strategy Of Mainland China Textile & Apparel Industry,Hong
Kong Polytechnic University,Dr. Zhi-Ming ZhangHong Kong
Investment Strategy of Thailand Textile Industry,Secretary-general e of
Thailand Board of Investment,Mr. Somphong WanaphaThailand
Investment Strategy Of Malaysian Textile Industry,Malaysia Industrial
Development Authority,Director of Textile and Mineral Industry Division,Mr.
P.KalaiyappanMalaysia
Development Strategy of Indonesian Textile Industry to Face Global
Market,Ministry of Industry and Trade (MOIT),Director for Directorate of
Textile Industry,Ms. Luky HartiniIndonesia 18
 11/04/2002 ~ 11/06/2002 TIFE Agenda

Theme - Technology

Development and Plan of Nano Technology of National Project in

Japan,Tokyo Institute of Technology,Professor Takeshi KikutaniJapan
Controllable Technology of Size, Structure, and Shape of Nano-Materials
Technical Institute of Physics and Chemistry, Chinese Academy of
Sciences,Professor Fang-Qiong TangChina
Technology and Latest Marketing of Functional Fibers,Hiroshima
University,Professor Michikage MatsuiJapan
The Technology and Marketing of Technical Textiles in Korea,Yeungnam
University ,Professor Seung Jin KimKorea
Marketing Trend and R&D of Eco-Textile Technology,Ohtsuma Womens
University,Professor Kanji Kajiwara,Technical Adviser of Teijin Fibers
Ltd.,Nobuya OkumuraJapan

19
 11/04/2002 ~ 11/06/2002 TIFE Agenda
Forum
Main Topic
Create the technology interchanging mechanism to enhance the competing
advantage of Asian textiles in the global market.

Issue One
Establish an electronic data interchanging system to promote regional cooperation
as well as to create potential marketing through information sharing.
Conclusion of Issue One
1.Invite all TIFE forum speakers to be website consultants.
2.Initially, TIFE Executive Committee will invite all speakers to recommend
textile related websites in Asia so that website communication and information
sharing could be achieved.
3.To continue the communication of textile technology, TIFE Executive
Committee will configure an original prototype of the website (www.tife.org) and
focus on constructing an information platform for technologies, markets and
products.

20
 11/04/2002 ~ 11/06/2002 TIFE Agenda
Issue Two
Through close cooperation of textile-related organization to enhance the
technology exchanging of nanotextiles, advocate green design and clean
production, and propel certification system for technical and green textiles.
Conclusion of Issue Two
1.Strengthen the establishment and communication of the inspection technologies
and standards for the technical and green textiles
2.TIFE seminars and forums shall focus on nanotextiles, green textiles, and the
certification of functional and technical textiles in the coming 3-5 years
3.Urge Asian governments and their related affiliation to pay attention to the
R&D and legislation of nanotechnolgy, green design and clean production.
4.Promote the interaction between the TIFE and relevant affiliation in Asia, so
that Asian textile R&D alliances could be established based on current basis. It is
hoped that this action could provide R&D innovation and new products to
enhance the competitive ability of Asia textile products in international market.
21
Trend of Functional
textile technology
and market
development
 Pr esent st at us of f uncti onal t extile
Functional
characteristics mar ket
Cortical technology company Room for function
improve
Market scale

Thermal
PCM technology
Outlast
medium
Sport and leisure
insulation
Heat generating
MituiMasonic market scale reaches
comfort technology
LenzingModal 520billion US

Thermal
CourtauldsViloft
dollaramong them
regulation water vapor

Humidity
Textile structure design
DuPont-Tactel
low permeation,water
sweating
Hydrophobia of layer Aquator proof, water
management next to skin
MituiWatermagic repellence textile
account for about 140

TorayFieldsensor
billion dollar; water

water vapor
New coating tech of
TorayH2O Out
low vapor absorptive and
permeation, fabrics
Akzo Nobel sweat expellant
water proof,
Membrane technology textiles accounts240
wind proof billion US dollar;
elastic textile account
protectionsafety
Anti bacteria
Microban
high for about 88billion US

Anti-UV
MituiLivefresh dollar

Function Muscle control

DuPont-Lycra
high
Product value of
enhancement Wind proofslip medical protection
resistance textile is about 1000

Swimming suit Drag reduction

Speedo
medium billion us dollar
Muscle control
Lycra
Chlorine resistance
PBT

Shoe material Air soleswater vapor

NikeAdidas
low
light weight permeation
Gore-Tex

comfort
supportive 23
Source:CTI R&D program
Applying function to functional
textiles
 Functional classification of functional textiles
Comfort function
Safety New
Basic function sensitivity clean
function function
appearance health
Anti
Monofilamen High
luster Heat retain bacteria & Water proof
t strength strength
stink
Bacteria Water High
Extension shininess Cool
restraint repellant resilience
Dimension transparenc Sweat Stink rubber
Stain proof
Stability y expelling expelling resilience
Ultra anti
density Heatproof Light weight Anti fungi retardant
heat
Melting
Melting point Light proof softness Bug proof Heat proof
proof
Weather Water
absorption hardness Anti allergy Anti erosion
proof solution
Biology
dyeability insulation colorfulness UV cut EMS
dissolution
Heat
thick
Anti drugs radiation
colorfulness
shield
fashion
Anti peeling
Anti
shrinkage

source: New sensory and new functional fiber,TCR1996

25
Functional application of functional textiles
for garment materials
Feature Function
Water absorption, water retaining, wetness absorption,
water
water repellent, anti stain
Fire Retardant, no combustion, anti fire, anti heat
Heat retain, heat cut, heat generation, heat out, anti melting,
Heat
General adherence
apparel Electricity Anti, inherent or inductive Electricity
Mechanics High strength, high resilience, rubber resilience
biology Anti bacteria, anti stink, stink reduction, aroma, anti bug
Chemistry & Swell reduction, solution, dissolution, automatic shrinkage,
others potential shrinkage, separation, fiber opening
durableness Durable to light, weather, heat, drugs, erosion
Ultra high Ultra High strength, Ultra High resilience, Ultra High
performance absorption, Ultra High durableness to heat, fire
Special
apparel Light transmission, collection and penetration, reverse
Special osmosis, ion exchange, adherence , gas exchange, anti
function electricity & magnetism, reflection, absorption, self
adherence

Source: CTI R&D program,1996 26

Technology integration of functional textiles

Polymer technology
Synthetic fiber

SpinningWeaving Post processing

Quality feeling:characteristic function

27
New functional textiles
Applying function to functional textiles

1. Creation of comfort and sensitivity

2. Beautiful color and luster
3. Requirement on light weight and thermal
insulation
4. Clean garment and comfortable environment
5. Protection of skin
6. Safety and protection
7. Sport and leisure
8. Environmental friendly
28
Trend of functional textile
technology development
shown in patent map

29
 Changes of number of patent filed in
Japanese functional textile technology
20 years
33657 patent

Photo catalyst
de-odor

Hollow & full of holes

Ultra fine & water repellant

Far IR thermo insulation

30
: 2001
Number of patent
filed in Japanese
functional textile
processing
technology

31
Source: Japan patent bureau 2001
Challenges to functional textiles
1. Multifunction composite material
2. Use of nano technology/material
3. Testing and certification of functional
textiles
4. International collaboration and R&D
alliance
32
Challenge one
Multifunction composite material
multifunction textile product is future trend
and the key point for Asia textile to enhance
competing ability
segmenting market based on technology
level
Dream fiber in functional fiber-multifunction
integration

33
Application of multifunction composite material

34
source: Japan patent bureau
 Challenge two
use of nano technology/material
nano technology N ano scale fiber Source:ITRI,CTI R&D program
and market intelligent nano fiber
nano particle modification tech high strength PET,nylon fiber tech of synthesis &
high perform ance absorptive
blending/distribution/stability modification of
filter
control tech of nano particle and nano polymer
nano carbon tube,biology
high performance resin Electrospinning
intimation

Nano coating textiles Nano composite fiber

EM wave absorption anti bacteria/stink/dust
Product value of anti melting,flame retardant,
ultra durl
nano-fiber/textile will few smoke
hydrophobic/hydrophilic UV or radiant wave absorption
interface worth 150 billion in Far-IRhealth seeking
nano coating products coming 2-3 years inductive, electricity
restrain/induction
tech of nano scale organic
synthesis tech of nano pow der
High performance
controltech of size size/shape/distribution control
dyestuff/pigment
distribution/size of nano particle com patibilization tech of
high fastness/color yield
stability and com pounding tech organic &
high brilliant dyestuff
of nano particle inorganic m aterials
light penetration 35
Source:CTI R&D program com pounding tech of
stability functional
 Nano water repellence
Water proof textiles

Through NANO-CARE technology, nano-

whiskers are attached to individual cotton fibers.
The whiskers cause liquids to roll off the fabric.

(Nano-Tex) 36
Clay

37
Nano-Finish

38
Challenge three
Testing and certification of functional textiles

Testing and certification is the key point to success

necessary condition for continuous operation
inform consumer the function of functional textiles
establish a trustable platform between buyer and
vendor
It is urgent to build large scale of state-of-art testing
and certification set up of equipment and
technology are all required
39
 Textile certificated label has became the
required condition for entering international
market such as USA and EU market

40
Challenge four
International collaboration and R&D alliance
Speed up international collaboration in textile industry
In responding to the formation of regional economic, textile
industry must be globalize to breakthrough the protection of
economic segment
Professional collaborationEach Asian country should
collaborate based on its strong points in supply chain to gain
relative superiority in global competing environment
Establish Asia textile R&D alliance
Based on APEC model to promote interaction between each
affiliation or expert in Asian country, to bring R&D
innovation and develop new product to enhance competing
ability of Asia textile s
41
 Future Aspect
1.FunctionFashioncreate high
added value
2.R&D innovationbrand &
channelRecreate Asia textile
future prosperity

42
 Conclusion
1. Asia has become world textile manufacturing and supplying
center
2. Collaboration between Asia countries based on supply chain
role and exploring international market is the most urgent
mission
3. To establish international R&D alliance, and reach
integration and collaboration is the win-win strategy
4. Functional textiles, whether it is for garment, house
decoration or technical textiles will be future profit point in
textiles
5. Based on APEC model to promote interaction between each
affiliation or expert in Asian country, to bring R&D
innovation and develop new product to enhance competing
ability of Asia textiles 43
THANK YOU!

44