TECHNICAL TRAINING FOR GPQ AND Presented By ,

Md. AL Arafat Hossain

FLOOR QUALITY AUDITOR Assistant Project Manager (Pride Group)
COURSE CONTENT
 What Is Quality ? Role of a Quality Person.
 Sample Quality Management
 Materials Checking
 Fabric Quality Check
4 Points Check
Shade
Shrinkage
Spirility
Hand feel
GSM
 Fabric Testing
Physical Test
Chemical Test
 Test Cutting
 Cutting PP meeting
 Emblishments
 Bulk PP meeting
 Sewing Techniques
 Sewing Safety Requirement and Test
 Inline Inspection Report
Midline Inspection Report
 Assortment
 Pre Final Inspection
 Final Inspection Offer
 Final Summary of That Order and Closing
 Report analysis
 7 Quality tools

WHAT IS QUALITY ?
Definitions

1.General: Measure of excellence or state of being free from

defects, deficiencies and significant variations
ISO 8402-1986 standard defines Quality as- the totality
of features and characteristics of a product or service that
bears its ability to satisfy stated or implied needs.

2. Manufacturing: Strict and consistent adherence to

measurable and verifiable standards- to achieve uniformity
of output that satisfies a specific customer or user
requirements.
WHAT IS QUALITY ?
Definitions

3.Objective : Measurable and verificable aspect of a thing/

phenomenon,expressed in numbers or quantities , such as
lightness, heaviness, thickness, thinness, softness, hardness..etc .

4. Subjective- Attribute, characteristi, or property of a thing

or phenomenon that can be observed and interpreted , and
may be approximated (quanitified) but cannot be measured ,
such a beauty , feel, flavor, taste..etc
American Society for Quality control (ASQC) defines quality as :
“ systematic approach to the search of excellence” (productivity, cost reduction ,
scheduled performance , sales, customer satisfaction, team work, the botom line ) .

Quality may also mean :

-the degree of excellence an item may possess
-being the best that money can buy
-meeting a specification
-craftsmanship
No more than 1% defective lot.
-anything Japanese !
Quality in business, engineering and manufacturing has a
interpretation as the non-inferiority or superiority of
something.

Consumers may focus on the specification quality of a

product/service, or how it compares to competitors in the
marketplace.

Producers might measure the conformance quality, or

degree to which the product/service was produced
correctly.

Many different techniques and concepts have evolved to

improve product or service quality.
 In Apparel industry , fashion dictates the marketplace & it
has variables in terms of- Raw materials, manufacturing
processes, operators and so on , the importance of quality is
not universally recognized.

Lots of success stories have been built on quality – like

Levi’s, Jockey international, etc

QUALITY IS THE MAIN INGREDIENT IN A PRODUCT THAT

DELIGHTS THE CUSTOMER BY EITHER MEETING OR
EXCEEDING EXPECTATIONS .

Quality is one of the most important criteria their customers

use in selecting a product or service.
Ignorance to quality, has a tremendous cost ,which may be
bigger than the gross profit. Unless its broken down into
details, its impact is not realized by management !

Quality audits recover that ¼ of all factory hands do not

produce anything - they just rework things that have not
been done right for the first time .
Add in expense of repairing/ replacing flawed products
that slip into the market- total burden of “bad quality” can
mount to a punishing 30% or more of production costs.
Are consumers ready to pay more for high quality products ?

Do they look for top quality when shopping ?

Findings of a survey done in US by Grey Advertising in 90’s was :

a/ 87 % consumers always look for top quality- means its their no. 1
criterion.

b/ 84 % consumers will pay more for top quality, suggesting that for today –
VALUE – has a different meaning !

VALUE: BEST QUALITY IN GIVEN PRICE.

 Six Benefits of quality are :

GREATER MARKET SHARE .

HIGHER GROWTH RATE

HIGHER EARNINGS

PREMIUM PRICE

LOYAL CUSTOMERS

HIGHLY MOTIVATED EMPLOYEES

Eight Dimensions of quality are :

Performance
Features
Reliability
Conformance
Durability
Servicability
Aesthetics
Perceived Quality
HIGHER / BETTER QUALITY PRODUCT can also be used as a “
product Differentiation Strategy “ in the marketplace.

Earlier saying “ If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it “.

Is changing to “ If it ain’t broke- IMPROVE IT “ !

 QUALITY IS REFLECTION OF CUSTOMER’S OPINION ON THE
VALUE THEY SEE IN YOUR PRODUCT ,as COMPARED TO THAT OF
YOUR COMPETITOR.
 SOME FACTORS THAT INFLUENCE CONSUMER’S PERCEPTION OF QUALITY :

1. PRICE & apparent value for money : customers tend to associate quality
with higher price.
2. TECHNOLOGY : factors such as –fabric and seam strength , colorfastness,
shrinkage ,waterproofing, warmth, sweat absorption and other factors that
are affected by the state of technology in the industry.
3. PSCYCOLOGY : A garment can be attractively prices & best that
technology can offer, BUT if its not attractive in appearance . If its not
fashionable ( as per the target group or period) , or if it does not meet
aesthetic requirements of consumer , then it is not a quality garment.
Individuality of appearance.. Image enhancement
4. TIME ORIENTATION : This indicates “ durability”of appearance and
function .Its importance varies with the categories of garments.
 SOME FACTORS THAT INFLUENCE CONSUMER’S PERCEPTION OF QUALITY :

6. EASE OF CARE :crease and stain resistance, shape retention, washability, etc

7. CONTRACTUAL : This refers to product guarantee , the refund policy of a

store, and so on..

8. ETHICAL: honesty of advertising , courtesy of sales personnel ..etc

There are two common quality-related functions within a business.
One is Quality assurance
All actions taken to ensure that standards and procedures are adhered to and that
delivered products or services meet performance requirements.
It is the prevention of defects, such as by the deployment of a quality
management system and preventative activities like FMEA.
A failure modes and effects analysis (FMEA) is a procedure in operations
management for analysis of potential failure modes within a system for
classification by severity or determination of the effect of failures on
the system.
Failure modes are any errors or defects in a process, design, or item,
especially those that affect the customer, and can be potential or
actual.
Effects analysis refers to studying the consequences of those failures
It is widely used in manufacturing industries in various phases of the product
life cycle and is now increasingly finding use in the service industry.
 The other is Quality Control

What is quality control ?

A system for ensuring the maintenance of proper standards in

manufactured goods, especially by periodic random inspection of the
product

It is the detection of defects, most commonly associated with testing which

takes place within a quality management system typically referred to as
verification and validation.

The term is conventionally used to describe the process by which

management seeks to monitor the quality of output , to compare it with the
accepted standards and to act upon the difference.
Term –Quality Assurance- may be used to define the function’s purpose.
 COST OF QUALITY
The KEY to profitable garment manufacture is to provide for the
best combination at the lowest cost , “the economic quality level “.

The cost of quality comes from :

Style
Fabric and trimmings
Make, including repairs and rejects
Quality control function.
It is the combination of characteristics of properties of a
product which make the product usable.

The extent to which a product successfully serves the purpose

of the user ,during usage is called “fitness of use”.
Fitness of use is determined by the features of a product
that a user can recognize as beneficial ..fitting of garment,
beauty of painting, status of club membership, fresh baked
taste of bread , clear reception of radio reception ,
timeliness of bus, trains etc.
It should be judged from a consumer’s point of view and not
from ether manufacturer’s or seller’s perspective.
For a garment to be FIT FOR USE (provided its acceptable style) :

1. It should be free from defects such a stains, material (fabric / leather )

defects , loose hanging threads (untrimmed) , misaligned buttons and
button holes, defective zippers , and so on.
2. Must fit properly for the labelled size .The kind of fit and shape.
3. Must perform satisfactorily in normal use , meaning that a garment must
be able to withstand normal laundering / dry cleaning/ pressing cycles
without color loss or shrinkage ; seams must not come apart ,fabric must
not tear ,etc .
FITNESS OF PURPOSE COMPRISES OF :
Quality of design
Quality of conformance
Quality of delivery and service.
 QUALITY NEEDS OF THE RETAILERS

Consistency – (dependant on clear specifications with tolerances,

the means to achieve the required quality level ; the will to
conform of Management and workforce).

Delivery on time.

Low cost to support competitive price.

STATISTICAL QUALITY CONTROL ( SQC) :
SQC is the term which implies that only a proportion of garments are examined
and that they are chosen according to the rules which come from the theory of
statistics.
*Based on AQL levels- acceptable quality level (to consumer)
*Based on LTPD- low tolerance percent defective (The level of "poor' quality that
the consumer is willing to tolerate only a small percentage of the time)

TOTAL QUALITY CONTROL (TQC)-was a movement which arose as a reaction

to SQC..it implied a return to the idea that “good quality is a part of the whole
manufacturing process “.
It emphasises on “ ZERO DEFECTS “ and “RIGHT FIRST TIME “.
 QUALITY CONTROL
At sampling stage …
*Sample could be one or small no. of garments ,which are examined. If sample
is representative of the whole, it is possible to monitor quality at the minimum
cost .
*It is done in a way in which we get best chance to look at garments and key
features .
QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT
They have to work on methods to improve quality and it has to be done at the
minimum cost , balancing the expense of the department against the savings it
makes possible in terms of reducing the repairs and rejects.
One aspect is to define the quality or level of work of the plant and the
workplaces in it. The maintenance of quality at agreed levels means giving
clear specifications with approved tolerances.
 QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT

Extra costs Savings

Earlier job was to stop bad
work leaving the factory and
reaching the consumer. Now Planning Delays in
stress is on modern thinking of delivery
reducing the amount of bad
Prevention Repairs
work being made.

Inspection Remakes
Savings in cost of repairs/
rejects + speeds delivery Monitoring the Returns
effects

There could be some extra costs outside QC dept- like machines and training also
GOOD QUALITY IS CHEAP, IT IS POOR QUALITY WHICH IS
EXPENSIVE.
 EXTRA COSTS
Planning costs
Prevention costs
definition of required quality
characteristics and quality level Specifications and tolerances
by market research Fabric and trimmings to
Establishment of revised quality specifications
control procedures Appropriate machinery in good
condition
Evaluation of sampling levels
and selection of examination Correct methods and good
process training
Calculation of appropriate
manning levels
 EXTRA COSTS
Inspection/Appraisal costs
properly selected and trained
examiners
Standard examination
procedures, with suitable
equipment.
Testing costs
Rapid feedback of information,
checked against results.
Monitoring
checking the efficiency of the
examination
Seeking out trouble spots
Comparing defect ratios with
budgets
Comparing the costs of prevention
with those of poor work.
 SAVINGS
Delays
Shipments which are held over and
awaiting the completion of repairs
require extra capital to finance them
If dispatch dates are delayed orders
may be lost.
With the modern emphasis on ‘just in
time manufacture’ and small
inventories ,balancing problems
caused by repairs can cut output
drastically.
Repairs and remake
Repairs cost money in extra handling
and supervision ,restitching.
Remakes may mean extra cutting and
problems of shading , which result in
good parts being discarded ,with a
high cost in wasted material.
The labor cost of a repair is usually
estimated at least half the total labor
cost of garment , to which overheads
have to be added
 SAVINGS

Returns
These may mean lost orders .
Often it is too late to replace the returned garments and the
revenue is lost for ever.
 PLANT QUALITY LEVEL
THIS IS THE LEVEL OF QUALITY WHICH CAN BE ATATINED WITHOUT UNUSUAL
CARE AND AT AN ECONOMIC PRODUCTION RATE .”
It can be with respect to section, process, machine or operative .

Depends on :-
Type of machinery
Work aids
Processes in use
Cloth, leather and trimmings being used
Operative skills
 PLANT QUALITY LEVEL
It MUST be recognized so that it can be compared with the AQL and full
consideration given to any shortfall when considering prodn of a new style.
Long term “quality improvement program “ can often raise both productivity
level and plant quality level.
It is also related to outlet :
-branded outlet concentrate on individuality and aesthetic features or on well
known qualities associated with the brand
-chains stores place emphasis on conformity and consistency , details like –no
thread ends’ etc.
Too many minor defects can cause rejection of garments.
Consistency is very important to maintain the average PLANT QUALITY LEVEL.
 QUALITY SPECIFICATIONS
It helps if the factory standards and specifications do not change very often-
outdated copies should be with drawn immediately.
Aim should be minimum paper and maximum information.

Factory specifications
cloth and trimmings, button spacing
Thread and needle types and sizes , by fabric and seam time
SPI
Seam types, seam margins and tolerances
Standard blocks and size ranges
Cutting standards
 QUALITY SPECIFICATIONS
Style of Garment Specifications
Special size ranges and grading
Key features and quality points
Special tolerances
Fabric and trimmings, colors and shades – shade cards checked regularly to fading

Points to watch
Should be easy to read
More visuals than words where possible
Dimensions and tolerances on sketches
P.O.M should be clear
 Defects :
Material defects can be defined into three categories :
Critical : prevents usability or performance
Major : may affect usability or interfere with performance
Minor : will not affect usability

First quality : If quality of the garment is evaluated as acceptable.

Rest are evaluated as seconds, thirds, irregulars, scraps depending on no. and
type of defects.
Average rate of defective garments is 10 – 12 %.
 NACERAP
This is a word which stands for :

N = NAME
A= APPEARANCE
C= CAUSE
E=EFFECT
R= REPAIR
A=ACTION
P=PREENTIONS
 NACERAP
It provides a systematic approach to defects and is very useful in training .

Thee has to be a name and record for all faults which occur /likely to occur
..each identified with picture –name and if possible a sample.

There could be more than one cause for the same defect- this needs to be defined.

It is important to specify if certain defects should be repaired ,since it may cost

too much. Repair may be done in many ways but one maybe best.