Woven Fabric

Geometry

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 Learning Objectives

1. Introduction
2. Fabric Geometry Models
1. Pierce’s Model
2. Modified Pierce’s Model
3. Kemp’s racetrack Model
4. Hearle’s Lenticular Model
3. Mathematical descriptions of each model
4. Limitations on fabric geometry

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 Introduction

The objectives of fabric geometry (math models for fabric) is to:

1. Prediction of the maximum sett (density) of fabric and fabric
dimensions;
2. Find out relationship between geometrical parameters (picks
and ends);
3. Prediction of mechanical properties by combining fabric and
yarn properties;
4. Understanding fabric performance (handle and surface effect).

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 Geometry Theories Approach
1. In conventional approaches, the general character of
fabrics was idealized into simple geometrical forms
(circle, ellipse, rectangle)
2. They treated the micro-mechanics of fabrics on the
basis of the unit-cell approach, ie fabrics are
considered as a repeating network of identical unit
cells in the form of crimp weaves and constant yarn
cross-section in the woven structure.
3. By combining this kind of geometry with or without
physical parameters (material), mathematical
deductions could be obtained.
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 Four Fabric Models
(geometry models)

 By using circle, ellipse, rack-track approaches, four fabric geometrical

models are formed
1. Pierce model
2. Modified model (ellipse)
3. Kemp’s race track model (rectangle & circle)
4. Hearle’s lenticular model

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Mathematical Notation for
each model

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Pierce’s Model
(Classical Model)

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Pierce’s Model

 In this model, a two-dimensional unit cell of fabric

was built by superimposing linear and circular yarn
segments to produce the desired shaped.
 The yarns were assumed to be circular in cross-section
and highly incompressible, but perfectly flexible so
that each set of yarns had a uniform curvature
imposed by the circular cross-sectional shape of
interlacing yarns.
 Geometrical parameters such as thread spacing (p),
weave crimp, weave angle and fabric thickness (h) can
be found.
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Pierce’s Model Results

Pick spacing (p1) and end spacing (p2), warp

thickness (h1), weft thickness (h2) can be
found from this model
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Pierce’s Model Limitations

 This model is convenient for

calculation and is valid for open
structure (loose density)
 However, the assumptions of circular
cross-section, uniform structure along
the longitudinal direction, perfect
flexibility and incompressibility are all
unrealistic.
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 Pierce’s Elliptic Model

 In more tightly woven fabrics, however, the inter-thread pressures

setup during weaving cause considerable thread flattening normal to
the plane of cloth.
 Pierce recongized this and proposed an elliptic section theory as shown
in Fig 3.2
 Because such model would be too complex and laborious in operation,
he adopted an approximate treatment, which involved merely replacing
the circular thread diameter in his circular-thread geometry with minor
diameter as shown in Fig 3.2
 This modified model is good for reasonable open fabric but cannot be
applied for very closed jammed fabric.

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Pierce’s Elliptic Model

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Kemp Model
(Race-track section)
 To overcome the jammed structure,
Kemp proposed a racetrack section to
modified cross-section shape.
 The model consisted of a rectangle
enclosed by two semi-circular ends and
had the advantage that it allowed the
relatively simple relations of circular-
thread geometry, already worked out
by Pierce, to be applied to a flatted
threads.
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Kemp Model
(Race-track section)

A rectangle and semi-circular cross section of Kemp Model

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Kemp Model Results

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Hearle’s Model

 Using energy method for calculations in fabric mechanics, a

lenticular geometry was proposed by Hearle as shown in Fig
3.5

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Hearle’s Model

Energy approach for Hearle’s model

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Hearle’s Model Results

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Limitations
Fabric Geometry Models
1. Firstly, fabrics are complicated materials
that do not conform even approximately
to any of the ideal features suggested by
these four fabric models.
2. Secondly, the measurement of
geometrical parameters is not easy in
practice.
3. Thirdly, the relationship between fabric
mechanic (tensile, elongation, bending)
to fabric geometry is not fully explored.

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References

 Structure and mechanics of woven fabrics by Jinlan HU

 Chapter 3 Structural properties of fabric pp61-89

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