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Raymond Group : Overview

 Raymond's is one of the India’s leading fabric and garment


manufacturers and fashion retailers.
 The Raymond group was incorporated in 1925 .
 Headquarters Mumbai, India
 The company is led by CEO Gautam Hari Singhania.
 Raymond turnover - 3,011.56 Cr. (March,2018)
 Revenue: $800 million
 A vertically and horizontally integrated manufacturer of Textiles.
 A dominant market share of over 60 percent in the worsted suiting
fabric space in India.
 With over 1100 exclusive stores spread across 380+ cities in India.
 Global Presence: 55+ Countries including USA, Europe, Japan & Middle
East
 Official website: http://www.raymond.in/
Raymond : Businesses
Suiting, Shirting, Garmenting, Retail, Denim, Tools & Hardware( JK
files & tools), FMCG, Automotive Components, Manufacturing
and Apparel.

Brands
Vision
 We build relationships with customers by providing solutions
to their challenges. We work proactively to accomplish this
through dedication, capability, integrity, and teambuilding. We
continually develop and strengthen these qualities by
investing in our people.

Mission
 Our mission is to become the preferred specialty contractor in
each of our market areas while enhancing our employees’
quality of life and achieving consistent operating profits that
exceed industry standards.
The quality products
 Raymond has created the world’s finest worsted suiting fabric from the
finest wool ever produced in the world – the Super 240s fabric made of
11.6 micron wool.
 The count of the wool used in Raymond's product is 80s to 250s.
 It produce nearly 20,000 designs and colors of suiting fabric that have
found their way in over 55 countries.

New launches:
 Raymond fine fabrics-Technostretch
 Raymond Supima

Sustainable innovations
 Fibers extracted from Fruits and flowers: Banana Fabric, Lotus fabric,
Rose fabric, Pineapple fabric.
Raymond Plants

 Raymond’s state-of-the- art fabric manufacturing plants in :


 Vapi (Gujarat),
 Chhindwara (Madhya Pradesh) and ,
 Jalgaon (Maharashtra)
have an aggregate manufacturing capacity of 38 million metres of
suiting fabric extending across all wool, poly- wool, silk, polyester
viscose blend, cotton blend, linen blend and other premium
blends.
Raymond Private Limited, Vapi
 Raymond Limited (Khadki Unit) Address: N.
H. No. 8, At Khadki, Dist. Valsad, Vapi,
Gujarat
 The property of 112.61 acres ,Currently, the
unit is engaged in manufacturing of :
 Premium worsted suiting fabric, and
Equipped with Hi-tech machinery –
 Warping equipment from Switzerland,
Weaving machines from Belgium,
 Finishing machines, Automatic drawing-in
and other machines from Italy .
 Produces 25 million meters fabric /annum.
 U shaped Plant layout.
 The plant, which began commercial
production in 2006, is ISO 9001, 14001 &
OHSAS-18001 certified and employs over
1500 people.
Raw Material and Sourcing

Natural fibers:
 The Merino wool (11.4 to 34 microns) is imported from South Africa, Australia in
bales.
 Every week 100 tons of wool is imported and 1 bale is equal to 40 kg.
Man- Made fibers:
 Polyester is sourced from Reliance. 20 to 25 bales of 160 kg each.
 Mostly used fiber blends:
• POLYWOOL,
• ALL WOOL.
• POLY VISCOSE
Raymond Caters to:
1. Civil Market- The civil market consists of full domestic market in
India.
2. Exclusive Market- Indian (Raymond) dealers only.
3. Exotic Market- High value fabrics
4. Export Market- Market outside India.
5. RAL- stands for Raymond Apparel Limited
Process Flow Chart
Wool Scouring

Greige Combing

Dyeing

Re-combing

Spinning

Design and sampling

Weaving and mending

Finishing

Folding and Quality control


Production capacity
Department Kg or meters / day
Wool Scouring 14000
Greige and Combing 7000
Dyeing 14000
Re-combing 14000
Spinning And Yarn 7500
Weaving and mending 28000
Finishing 65000
Folding 65000
Warehouse 150000(Dispatch
Capacity)

 The above mentioned process of Scouring, Dyeing, weaving, folding


etc. is done in a U shaped layout facility.
 This layout increases the efficiency of the assembly line. So they are
able maintain their lead time of 45 days
Wool Scouring
 This is the process of thoroughly washing the raw wool in a solution of water
and alkali to remove dirt, grease and other impurities.

 In this process there are 6 chambers of bowls and 6 washers.

 1 round is of 40 minutes and there is 18 round/day.

 The capacity of this process is 14 tonnes/ per day.

 To maintain and check the temperature at this process is VNC Software (Virtual
Network Computing).

 The grease, removed from bowl 2, is extracted further and sold as a by-product
to cosmetic industry.
 Bowl 1: The wool is washed using warm water (28 °C), resulting in
removal of impurities.
 Bowl 2: The wool is washed using hot water (65 °C), the grease on
wool surface melts at this temperature and gets removed.
 Bowl 3: The wool is washed using detergent and hot water (60 °C) to
remove the left out impurities and proper cleaning.
 Bowl 4, 5 & 6: Thorough rinsing is done in next three bowls to
remove all the suspended particles and detergent from the wool.
Cleaning and washing

Fig : Wool Scouring


Machine Specification
Machine Name Speed Temperature Used for process Number
of
Machine
Andar holding: 700-900kg/hr Normally Cleaning and 1
Scouring Machine less than 60 washing
Combing
 Carding is gently spreading of washed and dried wool in preparation
for further processing.
 Combing is straightening and stretching the fibers to obtain maximum
spinning capacity.
 1 Drums can contain 22 to 25 kg of processed wool.
 The capacity of this process is 100 cans/day.
 Then the material has to pass by 2 Gilling machine.
 These short fibers are 1.8% of how much is produced in this process.
 Finisher is the automated machine in which the combed wool is
turned in to the tops of 10 kg each.
 The Polyesters are also combed to make it straight and then they are
converted into tops.
Fig. Carding
Fig: Comber

Fig: Combed Top


Machine Specification
Machine Name Production Output Feed Used for Number. of
Linear Density machines
process
NSC Thibeau - 6000-7000 22-24gm/m Combing
Combing kg/day
machine
Dyeing
Dyeing is the process of adding color to textile products like fibers, yarns, and fabrics.
Dyeing is normally done in a special solution containing dyes and particular chemical
material.

Top
Dyeing
Yarn Piece
Dyeing Dyeing
Dyein
g
Types

Fig: Types of Dyeing methods


Dyeing is through three categories:-
1. Yarn Dyeing

• Yarn dyeing adds color at the yarn stage. Yarn dyeing provides adequate color
absorption and penetration for most materials.
• Thick and highly twisted yarns may not have good dye penetration. There are 6
slots of 4 kg each and it takes 17 to 20 min. to dye.
2. Top Dyeing

• Top dyeing is dyeing worsted wool fibers after they have been combed to
straighten and remove the short fibers.
• The wool fiber at this stage is known as top. Top dyeing is preferred for
worsted wools as the dye does not have to be wasted on the short fibers
that are removed during the combing process.
• There are 37 containers which work for 8 hours and produced 14 tonnes.

3. Piece Dyeing

• Fabric dyeing, also known as piece dyeing, is dyeing fabric after it has been
constructed. It is economical and the most common method of dyeing solid
colored fabrics.
Fig: Dyeing Fig: Hydro-extractor

Fig: Dyed Tops Fig: Radio frequency Dryer


Machine Specification
Machine Company Country Use for Number of
Name name Origin process machine
Dyeing Loris Bellini Italy Dyeing 14 machines of
machine 30kg capacity
Hydro extractor Loris Bellini Italy Dryer 3
dryer
Radio Strayfield England Drying 3
frequency moisture
dryer
Dyeing Tantura - - -
Sampling-
Ugolini Italia
Re-combing
 After Dyeing, tops are again send to the Re-combing section were straightening
 Stretching of fibers is done to obtain maximum spinning capacity.
 Here the Wool and Polyesters according to the ratio i.e. 70:30, 40:60 and so on.
 Here the capacity of this process is 14 tons/day.
 In this process also the cans are colored so as to know the status of the can
and can know that for what purpose that can is serving in this process.
 Gilling is again done after this process.
 As the before step of this is a wet process of dyeing so the re combing section
is fully air conditioned because after dyeing the yarn is needed some amount
of moisture in the atmosphere.
 So this area is maintained at cool temperature.
Fig: Re-combing Fig: Comber

Fig: Re-combed Top Fig: Gilling


Machine Specifications
Machines Company Name Country Used for the purpose No. of SELBANA
of origin Machines 3001 UN
oil
application
Defelter N.Schlumberger France To defelt the wool which 1 yes
becomes felted after dyeing.
And for uniform length
Blender N.Schlumberger France To blend the wool and 1 Yes
polyester tops homogeneously
after dyeing. The material is
also opened and the fibers are
made parallelized.
Gilling N.Schlumberger France Opening, drafting, aligning and 3 times Yes
Machine parallization of fibers.
Comber N.Schlumberger France To remove the short fibers, 1 No
neps, trailing end and leading
ends
Pre N.Schlumberger France To impart strength to the sliver 1 Yes
finisher
Finisher N.Schlumberger France Final processing of sliver 1 No
Spinning
 Spinning is the wool processing step where the wool roving’s
produced during carding, are turned into yarns.
 On a commercial wool processing scale the roving’s passing through a
spinning machine.
 On an individual scale a spinning wheel or a hand spindle is used.
 During spinning the wool roving’s are gently stretched again. Through
a series of twisting and spinning and twisting again the wool is spun
into batches of similar quality and strength.
This process is done in three types
 1. Pre Spinning
 2. Ring Frames
 3. Post Spinning (Yarn)
 Then Drafting is done to make the yarn thin (0.22 or .060)
 After spinning is done, all the yarn is kept in the Yarn Room were
everyday opening stock, closing stock, Issued Material, and
attendance is maintained.
Fig: Gilling Machine Fig: Vertical Gilling

Fig: Rubbing frame Fig: Roving


Fig: Ring Frame Fig: Autoconner

Fig:TFO(Two for one twister) Fig: Ply Winding


Fig: Yarn Room
Machine Specification
Machines Company name Country of Used for the purpose No. of
origin machines

Gilling N.Schlumberger France Uniform sliver 12


Felter N.Schlumberger France Matting, condensing and pressing
fibers together
Vertical N.Schlumberger France For quality improvement/used for finer 2
Gilling output
Rubbing Oerlikon Schlafhorst France To decrease the wrapping of the sliver. 3
Frame And Zinser Sliver is converted into roving

Ring Saurer Schlafhorst Germany To attenuate the roving until required 30


Frame And Zinser fineness is achieved. To impart strength
by twisting it.
Auto Saurer Schlafhorst Germany To convert small package is converted 7
conner And Zinser into large package called as cone.

Ply Saurer Schlafhorst Germany To provide sufficient strength to the 4


Winding And Zinser yarn

TFO Saurer Schlafhorst Germany To make yarn stronger. Two for one 30
And Zinser twister
Designing
 Designing department focuses on determining the quality, pattern and color
types of the fabrics produced every season.
 Domestic production is attended one season prior to delivery while that for
export, one year before hand.
 Process:
 Fabric design forecast books are ordered at different trend setting companies
all over the world
 These obtained designs are modified and altered to come up with innovative
and fresh designs of the season.
 Once the design has been finalized, it goes for sample production.
 The master card containing all the necessary and vital information regarding
the fabric is prepared.
 These are sent to the dealers and agents at various centers for booking.
 After booking, the final bulk production starts.
Designing
 Function:
 The department’s major function is Product Development;
hence everything that is made in the textile unit of Vapi is
properly planned before execution. The following list further
throws light on the department’s role in the unit.
 Development of collections for all the markets- domestic,
exports.
1. Civil Market- The civil market consists of full domestic market in
India.
2. Exclusive Market- Indian (Raymond) dealers only.
3. Exotic Market- High value fabrics (Rs.15,000-Rs.9,00,000
/meter)
4. Export Market- Market outside India.
5. RAL/RMG/INST- RAL stands for Raymond Apparel Limited
• Technical service (determining the technical details of count,
TPI, twist direction, etc.)
Weaving
 Yarn Receive:
• Yarns are received from yarn room for warping
 Warping:
• The parallel winding of warp yarn from cone onto a drum in preparation for
weaving.
• 8 warping machines each with a creel are there for beam making and the creel
capacity of warping section is 480 (240 each side).
• Average speed of warping is 375 m/min.
 Beaming:
• The transfer of yarns from drum to a beam that fits into the loom.
• Beam speed is about 50-70 m/min.
• At the time of beaming waxing is done on yarns to impart strength.
• Piece dyed fabric do not require waxing.
 Drawing-in:
• Preparation of beam to get fit into the loom shed.
• Drawing can be done manually with experienced operator having sharp eyes or
can be done through Auto-drawing Machine.
• There are 3 auto-drawing machines that can draw approximately 60-80 ends/m

 Knotting/ Gating:
• The process of insertion of beam of new design is termed as Gating.
• Knotting is the process of connecting every yarn of two beams of similar styles
through knots so that no further adjustments are required in the loom.
• Knotting can be normal knotting or loom knotting.
• Normal knotting is knotting happening in a section of small yarns that can be
inserted into loom.
• Loom knotting is directly done on the beam yarns without any sectional yarns.
 Fabric Weaving:

• Shedding:
Separating the warp yarns into two layers by lifting and lowering the shafts,
to form a tunnel known as Shed.

• Picking:
Passing the weft yarn (pick), across the warp yarns through the shed.

• Beating-up:
Pushing the newly inserted weft yarn back into the fell using the reed.
Fig: Warping Fig: Rapier loom

Fig: beaming Fig: Perching


Machines Specification
Machines Company Country of Used for the No. of
Name origin purpose machines
Warping Benninger Switzerland warping 8
machine
1)Rapier Picanol Belgium weaving 78 looms
(Optimax
looms)
2) Rapier ( Picanol Belgium weaving 68 looms
Gammax
looms )
3) Air-jet looms Picanol Belgium weaving 8 looms
Mending
 After Weaving, Calculation of meters is done and simultaneously manual
checking is also done to check damages that might occur while making
the cloth.
 35000/day production capacity
 Fabric mending is checking the fabric and manually removing the
defects from the greige fabric.
 The objective is to search for defects that could have been caused by
carding, spinning, warping and weaving processes.
 As the fabric is pulled meter by meter across the perching table, flaws
such as stains, knots, small holes, missing warp or weft yarns and other
imperfections are marked and removed.
 For removal of defects, tweezers and needles with ball point are used.
Fig: Checking Fig: General Mending

Fig: Extra Work Mending


Machines Specification
Machine Company Country of Used for the No. of
origin purpose machines
Mending table True shape India Mending 114
engineer
Finishing
 Finishing refers to the processes that convert the woven or
knitted cloth into a usable material and more specifically to
any process performed after dyeing the yarn or fabric to
improve the look, performance, or "hand" (feel) of the
finished textile or clothing.
 This process is never been outsourced because Finishing is
the Heart of Raymond which makes the Raymond as to feel
like heaven.
Following are the process under finishing

 Batching:
• Greige fabrics come from mending and are divided into batches of 10 pieces
having maximum length of 150 meter/piece.
• Each batch is of approximately 1300-1400 meters.
• The fabrics come slightly more in length than the required finished length
because the fabric tends to shrink after finishing process.

 Pre-Scouring:
• Fabric goes through first washing with non ionic detergent.
• Washing is done with the speed of 50 m/min at 85°C.
• After first washing, the fabric elongates.
 Drying and Heat Setting:
• Drying of wet fabric after washing.
• Removal of elongation with the use of overfeed is done.
 Shearing:
• This is the process of cutting the short fibers above the surface of the fabric.
 Singeing:
• Fibers from the surface of the fabric are burnt through gas singeing.
• Flame with temperature of 110°C at the speed of 100 m/min makes the fabric hand-feel
very hard.
 Rope Scouring, Opening and Drying:
• The fabric is again washed to remove the burnt fiber ash from the surface.
• The process goes with washing of fabric in hot water with detergent then, washing in
cold water and then Silicon based chemical softening.
• Scouring is done for 1 hour for All-Wool fabric and 30 min for Poly-Wool fabric.
• The temperature remains 120°C and speed remains 400 m/min for both types of fabrics.
• Rope Opening- The machine is used for opening fabric washed from scouring.
• Drying is done again to dry the wet fabric.
 Semi-Perching:
• After drying, fabric comes to checking table where fabric is inspected for knots,
naps, chemical fastening and many more parameters.
• After perching, fabric is sent to shearing again so that the short fabrics and noils are
cut from the surface.
 Relaxing:
• The fabric is now relaxed so that it comes to its original strength and stretch.
 Damping, Shining and Ironing:
• Damping is the process where water is sprayed over the fabric to prepare it for
ironing.
• Shining is provided to the fabric at a temperature of 110°C with speed of 25-
40m/min.
• Ironing of fabric is done to straighten the fabric to get smooth surface. 9.10
Steaming:
 Steaming
• It is done to set the fabric shine and other finishes.
Fig: Singeing Fig: Shearing

Fig: Finishing

Fig:Drying Fig: Kier decatizing machine


Fig: Drying and Heat-setting Fig: Detergent Washing

Fig: Rope Scouring Fig: Pre-scouring


Machines Specification
Machine Company Country of Used for the No. of
origin process machines
Pre Scouring CIMI Italy Pre scouring 1

STENTER Montforts Germany for heat setting, 4


drying and resin
treatment.
Pressing Formula 1 3
machines
Shearing M/C lafer To remove
protruding fibers
Singeing - - Burn the fibers 1
from the surface
of the fabric
Kier Decatising TMT Italy To condition and 1
give stability to
the fabric
Folding
 After finishing, fabric goes to folding department.
 Here the fabric is again inspected and folded according to the market orders
 Domestic orders have a length of 15 meters, export is packed according to the
order placed i.e. fabric rolls, and few orders are packed in neutral packing.
There is an inspection before packing.
 There are two types of inspection system followed:
1. Flag System-
 There are two colors of flags – red & white.
 Red is used for major defects and white for minor defects.
 For per 100DM, not more than 10 flags can be assigned with a maximum of 4
red flags.
 In case of more defects, bargaining starts and the fabric is given at lesser price.
 This system is followed at the domestic level.
2. Four Point Inspection System-

The following table depicts the worldwide use of four point inspection system.

Fig: 4- point system


 After the fabric is finished, it is sent to folding department
where the following steps are undertaken:
 Inspection of fabric according to standard fabric sample.
 Checking for variations in the fabric.
 Final inspection and perching.
 Fold of the fabric in domestic market is Double Fold, while in
export market is Tube Roll.
 Flagging- Different colored flags are put according to faults.
Fig: Cutting Machine

Fig: Inspection Table


Machines
 Inspection Table
 Cutting machine
 Tube rolling
 Weighing machine
 Packing machine
Quality Control
The operational techniques and the activities used to fulfill the
requirements of quality are called quality control.
The goals of QC department are:
 Minimize customer’s complaints.
 Helps in reducing cuts and defects by continuous monitoring and
measuring.
 Optimizing testing time so that the theory of constraints can be
maintained.
 Zero reportable incidence.
 Zero emergency incidence due to human factors or human errors.
 The raw material, i.e. wool and polyester are checked in QC-Lab.
 The first inspection is done after greige combing.
 The test is done by random sampling. And a sample from each batch/lot is
selected and then checked or tested.
 Therefore 100% of the batch is tested till re-combing.
 For spinning, random samples are checked from random batches, because
100% batch inspection is not feasible due to large quantity.
 But, the QC Department makes sure to ensure each ring frame in 7-14 days.
 The final fabric is inspected 100%.
 The checking takes place in the weaving, mending and packaging department.
 Therefore, a vigilance checking/ audits/ cross-checking is done by employs of
QC Department.
 For functional tests like tear strength, shrinkage, pilling, abrasion, color-
fastness etc., the fabric swatches come to QC-Department.
Sampling
 After booking of designs and confirmation from market as well as
head-quarters (i.e. Thane), samples are prepared as per the
designs forwarded to them by the design department.
 Both yarn and fabric samples are made using smaller and similar
machines that are used for bulk orders.
Warehouse
 The purpose of warehouse department is to receive folded fabrics,
pack, stores and dispatch it to its destination.
 The fabric received by warehouse are classified into civil and exports.
Following are the main functions carried out in the warehouse:
 Segregation of goods from folding and shifting of goods into respective
bins.
 To organize workmen for bale packing
 To ascertain what suit length to be cut.
 After bales are weighted to mark them for dispatch in respective code
numbers of transporter to load the bale’s trolley.
 To stack the bales which are not dispatched in the racks after feeding
into the system.
 Machines used:
 P.P Box strapping
 P.P strapping
 Sample cutting machine
Fig: Warehouse
Learning Experience
 The overall learning experience at Raymonds, Vapi plant was very
informatory and was able to understand the in depth knowledge of
Textlie manufacturing process.
 Safety is unit’s first priority, first thing they teach any employee or
interns is about safety and emergency situations.
 Great Management and Very Co-operative staff.
 The Internship program was well organised by our Mentor Mr. Sanjay
Kumar Singh and HR Manish Panwala.
 We were divided into two groups and schedule was given for the
learning of process in different department where again different
mentors were allotted according to the Deptt.
Conclusion
 After an in-depth study of Raymond Industries, Vapi, we arrived at many
conclusions relating to industry primarily, we acknowledge the spirit with
which the industry has provided high quality goods to the mass at really
affordable price.
 The company is a hub of innovation and technology, blended with a spirit to
serve the people. Raymond has never compromised on the quality of its
products.
 Dedicated staff, high ethics, environmental concerns, corporate social
responsibility and an urge to provide customers the best quality goods at
affordable prices have characterized the company for all the past years.
 Its uncompromising attitude and high dedication have always set milestones
in the textile industry and has motivated a lot others to follow the same
pattern.
References
 Raymond Induction Manual: Vapi unit.
 Departmental Procedure Manual: Raymond, Vapi.
 Official website: Https://www.Raymond.in/

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