Project- DHU (Defects hundred per

unit)

Presented By: Rahul Kumar

Roll:16
BFT/15/2289
 Introduction
• In apparel industry, Quality is the main factor in which they mainly focus
on DHU %.

• DHU means the minimization of defects and increase in productivity in the

garment industry.

• These problems occur in the garment process line due to sewing and also
due to fabric during fabric manufacturing as well as fabric processing.
 The project

• In this project, I have implemented the ideas for improving the quality by
minimizing DHU% which occur due to sewing.

• To measure DHU of any process, one needs to record total no. of pieces
checked and total no. of defects detected in the garments. It is the
number of defects not the defective garments.

• Defects per hundred garments= Total defects found *100

Total garment inspected

 Methodology
• I have started inspecting garments and found some defects on each line.
• According to my collected data, DHU% & major three defects of each line are given below:-

S.NO. LINE DHU % MAJOR DEFECTS

1. LINE 1 89.53% •Puckering
•Stitch break
•Uneven stitch
2. LINE 2 65.91% •Thread joint
•Raw edge
•Long backtack
3. LINE 3 80.52% •Thread Joint
•Open Seam
•Raw Edge
4. LINE 4 73.36% •Thread Joint
•Not In Position
•Puckering
5. LINE 5 54.54% •Thread Joint
•Not In Position
•Uncut Thread
6 LINE 6 65.71% •Thread Joint
•Not In Position
•Open Seam
 Cont.
• After this, I worked on each line for finding the root cause behind all the
major defects.
• From Pareto Analysis, I have identified the top defect positions and by
further analyzing top eight defect types were identified in those positions.
The defect types are: -
• Stitch break
• Uneven stitch
• Open seam
• Puckering
• Thread joint
• Raw Edge
• Uncut Thread
• Not in position
1.Stitch break
• With the help of fishbone diagram, I was able to understand some of the
reasons, or problem are:-

a) Tension variation in lopper and needle.

b) SPI of machine is low.
c) Speed of machine is high.
d) SOP not followed.
e) Improper threading.
f) Thread, Needle or fabric combination is not proper.
 Implementation in Stitch break
• I observed there, that one individual machine (Cuff operator) got stuck
and gave more no. of stitch break in garments. This was happening
because of improper threading and bad thread quality. The moment I saw
the defect, I advised them to change the thread and I changed the
threading of the machine, and the results are as follows:
No. Of Garments checked = 71
S.NO. OPERATION STITCH BREAK
1. Hem 0
2. Cuff 0
3. Collar 2
4. Yoke 0
5. Armhole 0
6. Total 2
2.Uneven stitch
• With the help of fishbone diagram, I was able to understand some of the
reasons, or problem of machine, material ,men or method like :-

a) Feed dog or pressure is not parallel

b) Needle bent, Point damage, Thin

c) Needle thread or fabric combination is not proper

d) Excessive operation speed.

 Implementation in Uneven stitch
• I have suggested a (GUIDE) of yoke shape that will help to reduce the
uneven stitch.

• This GUIDE was used for collar only, I have suggested them to use this in
the shape of yoke also, so which will help to reduce the uneven stitch.
3.Open seam
• With the help of fishbone diagram, I was able to understand some of the
reasons, or problem of machine, material ,men or method like :-

a) Needle size and thread weight are mismatched

b) Incorrect alignment

c) Needle bent, Point damage, Thin

d) Wrong thread for the application

e) Bobbin empty.
 Implementation in Open seam
• This problem occurred due to empty bobbin and the operator did not got
to know about it.
• After this problem I researched on this and got know that every 32rd
garments the bobbin gets empty ,so to avoid this defect the operator
should change the bobbin in the 31st garment itself. and results are
follow:-
No. of checked garment-54
S.NO. Operation Open seam
1. Placket 0
2. Yoke 1
3. Collar 1
4. Cuff 1
5. TOTAL 3
4.Puckering
• With the help of fishbone diagram, I was able to understand some of the
reasons, or problem are:-

a) Dirty/Rusty eyelets & thread guides

b) Faulty feed dog

c) Incorrect tension of sewing thread.

d) Incorrect SPI

e) Poor quality thread

 Implementation in Puckering
• I observed that the operator does not check the SPI before start stitching
and due to this most of the defects came, and puckering is one of the
defect in this.
• I suggested them to keep one individual person to check the SPI of all the
machines every day. After this, they appointed a checker for this purpose,
and it really worked and the results are below:-
No. Of checked garment:-50
S.no Operation Puckering
1 Collar 1
2 Cuff 0
3 Frill 0
4 Hem 1
5 TOTAL 2
5.Thread joint
• With the help of fishbone diagram, I was able to understand some of the
reasons, or problem of machine, material ,men or method like :-

a) Incorrect tension of sewing thread.

b) Incorrect SPI

c) Dirty/Rusty eyelets & thread guides

d) Poor quality thread

 Implementation in Thread joint
• This defect was also because of SPI and when the checker started checking
this, the problem started decreasing.

No. of checked garment:-72

S. no. Operation Thread joint

1 Placket 0
2 Collar 1
3 Cuff 0
4 Pocket 2
5 Yoke 1
6 TOTAL 4
6.Raw edge
• With the help of fishbone diagram, I was able to understand some of the
reasons, or problem of machine, material ,men or method like :-

a) Miss alignment

b) No guide
 Implementation in Raw edge
• This defect came due to miss alignment of fabric so I suggested them to
use a stopper which will stop the fabric at 1\4 inch so that operator can
stitch easily without miss alignment.

No. Of checked garment:-

45
S.no. Operation Raw edge

1 Cuff 0

2 Collar 1

3 Yoke 0

4 TOTAL 1
7.Placement
• With the help of fishbone diagram, I was able to understand some of the
reasons, or problem of machine, material ,men or method like :-

a) Shape and size of the pattern changes due to long interval of time.

b) Incorrect pattern

c) Marker problem
8.Uncut thread
• With the help of fishbone diagram, I was able to understand some of the
reasons, or problem of machine, material ,men or method like :-

a) No automatic cutter
 Comparison

BEFORE AFTER

S.no. Defects DHU% Defects DHU% Difference

1 Stitch break 30.55% Stitch break 4% 26.55%

2 Uneven stitch 34.72% Uneven stitch 6.15% 28.57%

3 Thread joint 43.75% Thread joint 3.57% 40.18%

4 Raw edge 35% Raw edge 5.55% 29.45%

5 Puckering 25% Puckering 1.66% 23.34%

6 Open seam 39.28% Open seam 6% 33.28%

7 Placement 23.07% Placement 6.15% 16.92%

8 Uncut thread 24% Uncut thread 11.11% 12.89%

 Learning Outcome
• My experience in Chelsea mills was a great learning opportunity in terms
of gaining knowledge. It has helped us in developing perception and had
given more technical knowledge about production and how industry work
efficiently.

• Reduced rejections and reworks and Improvement in quality through

inline quality check.

• Increasing quality of lines by decreasing DHU.

• Reducing number of defects leads to less throughput time.

• It can be improved further if the suggested solutions has implemented.

Thank you