APPAREL INTERNSHIP

AQUARELLE INDIA PVT LTD

Presented By-
Namashya Sahoo
Devanshi Pal
Meenal Grace Bara

Batch 2016-2020
 1. Introduction:

Aquarelle India Private ltd. was incorporated in 2007 and is based in Bangalore Karnataka.
The company operates as a subsidiary of Aquarelle International limited and Bang Overseas
limited.
Aquarelle clothing shirts division is a homogenous shirts manufacturer, operating in the upper-
middle market segment.
It is a part of CIEL Textile with 20,000 employees and a turn over USD 170 million.

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AQUARELLE UNIT-2

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2. Vision:
To be recognised by their customers, employees, suppliers and peers as being
the best in the industry

3. Mission:
• Product leader and best sellers
• Flexibility to adapt the change
• Grade “A” quality product
• Be a leader in “Sustainable Development” & related products
• Competitiveness for Best value supplies

4. Manufacturing Capability (In India):

• Unit 1 & Unit 2 located in Bangalore have a employee base of around 2000
people.
• Production per day at each unit is somewhere near to 4000-4500 pcs
(depending on style).
• Tessitura Monti, Kolhapur leads the fabric production section.
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Manufacturing Capability:

Production Unit: Madagascar & India 5

5. World-Wide Customers and Market share:

• Annual turnover of Aquarelle India Pvt. Ltd is 170 Million USD

• Production capacity of AIPL U-2 is 3500 Pcs/Day
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ORGANISATION FLOW
1. Merchandising Department
2. Pre-production Department
3. Sampling Department
4. Warehouse
5. CAD
6. Spreading & Cutting
7. Sewing
8. Finishing
9. CSO
10. Lean Tools
11. DDB
12. Maintenance Department
13. Human Resource & Administration Department
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1. MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT:
• Merchandising is an important department which negotiates marketing and production
department at the same time.
• Merchandiser in apparel deals in fabric construction and design details and process a
technical pack with prior updating at every stage.

Key People:

• Production & Merchandising Head

• Factory Head
• Finishing Head
• Quality Head
• HR/Admin Head
• Buyer associated with style
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 Process flow of merchandising department:

ORDER WITH SAMPLE PRICE CONFIRMATION OF SAMPLE

BUYER DETAIL DEVELOPMENT NEGOTIATION ORDER DEVELOPMENT

MATERIAL
BULK PRE-PRODUCTION BULK FABRIC AND
P.P SAMPLE COLLECTION IN
PRODUCTION MEETING TRIM ORDER
WAREHOUSE

FINAL INSPECTION PAYMENT

DAILY PRODUCTION 3rd PARTY BEFORE BULK SHIPMENT
& QUALITY REPORT INSPECTION RECIEVED
DISPATCH

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2. PRE-PRODUCTION:
• Process approach that creates a reliable,
efficient production changeover and quality
process. KEY PEOPLE:
• Aims on eliminating the high risks & smoothen
both product and process design. 1. Merchandisers
• Before loading of orders for bulk production, 2. Garment Technicians
the following procedures are performed to 3. Technical Officers
prevent hiccups: 4. Technical Director
5. Sampling Manager
6. Technical Managers
1. Feasibility study 7. Product Designers
2. Bureau D’etude meeting 8. Pattern Makers
3. Internal line plan 9. Maintenance Head
4. Pre-run & Preparatory plan 10. SMV Coordinator
5. Demining meeting
6. Pre run execution
7. Changeover plan
8. Preparatory execution
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ORDER ENQUIRY
FEASIBILITY
STUDY } 60-120 Days prior to bulk (Order Acceptance Stage)

LOADING PLAN,
ORDER BUREAU D’ETUDE DE-MINING PREPARATORY PLAN.
CONFIRMATION MEETNG MEETING PRE-RUN

{20-60 Days prior to bulk (Order Confirmation Stage)}

STYLE LAUNCH
MEETING
PRE-RUN
EXECUTION } 5- 20 Days prior to bulk (Order Execution Stage)

PREPARATORY
CHANGE OVER
DETAILED PLAN
BULK
PRODUCTION } (Order Production Stage)
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DE-MINING:
• Process to address the high risk areas identified during BE Meeting.
• Arrangement of machine, skill, materials, and methods to preparatory & bulk production is taken
care of at this stage.
Impact of Demining:
 Avoids last minute surprises in Change Over.
 Elimination of Bottle Necks.
 Ensures Quick Style Changeover.
BUREAU D’ETUDE MEETING:

• To discuss production processes, buyer requirements, comments on Proto /1st Fit sample and
changes in construction if anything required.
• The upcoming styles are studied to fix the high risk process & operations by the factory, sourcing &
technical / quality team to make a smooth flow of production and right first time.
• Possible issues are discussed and set standard process flow and define job responsibilities. In BE
meeting merchandisers handover approved fabric swatches to production technical officer.

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 To give the confirmation to the buyer that the bulk
I production is going to be right
3. SAMPLING ROOM:

• The samples decide the ability

To confirm the measurement and fabric
of exporters to deal with any II
requirements
given style of garment.

• If the samples are of good

quality naturally the buyers
will be willing to place the III To fulfil the buyers requirement
order to factory.

To get understanding completely to the operators

IV and management as well about the production and
manufacturing

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TYPES OF SAMPLE:
PROTO SAMPLE FIT SAMPLE SECOND FIT

SIZE SET SAMPLE PRE-PRODUCTION

TOP OF SAMPLE
SAMPLE

SALESMAN
BULK PRODUCTION
SAMPLE

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4. PATTERN MAKING DEPARTMENT
Pattern Making Process:
• The pattern maker uses the Rich peace CAD system in his pattern making process.
• Details to create the patterns is included in the tech pack and there is a sketch or a photo
of a garment where specifications are mentioned.

Marker Planning:
• The created pattern by the pattern maker is sent to the marker planner for marker drawing
process.
• The marker planner in the sample room has to prepare markers for costing and the
ordering only.
• The pattern making or centralised CAD department is present in the warehouse. Everything
from pattern making to grading happens here and the software used is Rich peace.

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SPREADING

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ENTERPRISE RESOURCE PLANNING:
• ERP used at Aquarelle is WFS (Self developed ERP).

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 5. WAREHOUSE
• Planned space for the storage and handling of goods and material.
• Aquarelle is having a centralised warehouse.
• Fabric rolls and trims are received and transported to all other units from here.
• There are 4 inspection machines for this purpose, in which 4 point system is being
followed.

WAREHOUSE

FABRIC ROLLS TRIMS & ACCESSORIES

STORAGE STORAGE

INSPECTION

DISTRIBUTION TO OTHER UNITS

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Fabric is in-house after which swatches are cut and the according to
specifications the fabric goes for wash or non-wash programmes.

In the wash process, the fabric is cut into two equal parts after which one set is
sent for washing and shrinkage test and other set for CSV (centre to selvedge
variation) is checked after wash and report is prepared and sent to merchandiser
for approval.

After the process the shade band is observed and analysed using the light box

The CSV colour variation is analysed for the fabric in which fabric is divided into
five parts and arranged in an order and stitched together and colour variations
are observed using a grey scale and recorded.

After this process, inspection is done, the machine is run at 10-12 rpm. Speed
and all the rolls are inspected following the four point system.
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 FOUR POINT SYSTEM:

DEFECT LENGTH POINTS

Up to 3” 1
3-6’’ 2
6-9” 3
Above 9” 4

No. of Points x 3600

No. of Penalty Point = -----------------------------------------------------------
Quantity Inspected (in yards) x Width (in yards)

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6. COMPUTER AIDED DESIGN (CAD) DEPARTMENT:
• In Aquarelle India, the CAD
software used for Patterns making
and manipulation is CAD provided
by company RICHPEACE.
• Patterns are manually made at the
sampling unit and when sample
garments are approved then only
the patterns are approved for the
Bulk production part.
RICHPEACE SOFTWARE FEATURES
 Move and rotate command
 Grading tool
 Symmetry adjust tool
 Notch placement and fixation
 Status bar which tells whether the
marker is ready or not
 Equal height grade
 Efficiency of the spread
 Repeat size setting and Duplication
commands
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 RICHPEACE SOFTWARE

RICHPEACE PLOTTER

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7. SPREADING DEPARTMENT WORK FLOW:
Spreading operator receive lay report
consisting of following details:

 Purchase Order
 Style Number
 Lay Number
 Lay method –Face up / Face to face
 Fabric type –Shell/ Lining /Interlining /
Fusing Colour / Shade
 Lot quantity
 Marker name
 Marker length
 Lay length
 Usable fabric width
 No of plies to be spread
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8. CUTTING DEPARTMENT:

Any order processing begins with the

issue of a standard production file
which contains the following:

• Order sheet
• Bill of material
• Size breakup ratio sheet
• Product pack
• Approved sample
• Measurement spec sheet
• Approved patterns – soft copy

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Cut order planning is performed in combination with roll management techniques.

Constraints on which spreading depends: Fabric width, Shrinkage, Shade, Roll Length

Face- up (solid fabric for shirts , pocketing , body lining and other trims)
Face – to – face (solid , checks and stripes for shirts ) }Lay style
Combination of sizes is worked out to achieve the best fit to achieve marker utilization.

For each lay, specific fabric rolls are allotted.

The generated cut plan is thoroughly checked by the authorized personal and forwarded for
marker procedure.

Cutting department makes the marker plan.

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8. SEWING DEPARTMENT

The production department is divided into three

section: A, B and C and D
SECTION A: This section consists of Spreading,
Cutting, Relaying, Ticketing and Bundling.
SECTION B: This section is sub-assembly and
manufactures collar, cuff, sleeve, front and back
parts.
SECTION C: This is the Matching Centre
SECTION D: This is the Assembly Line

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 • All the bundles of back, collar and cuff parts are brought to the Kanban storage area from the cutting section,
I where these bundles are arranged serially in separate bins for back, collar cuff, sleeve and front respectively.

• All the arranged bundles are then fed to the floor in Kanban trolleys by the feeding helpers, at the beginning of
II each line.

• After this, the bundles are moved progressively from operation to operation in the sub-assembly.
III

• The bundles are taken by the Matching centre from every End-line inspections table of sub-assembly.
IV

• The matching centre collects all the bundles of the same no of all the five components and feeds them into
V Assembly which works on UPS.

• After a shirt is made, it is taken up by the Washing Out section from Assembly.
VI
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COLLAR OPERATION SAM(SEC)
OP1 COLLAR RUNSTITCH 33.044
OP2 TRIM STITCHED EDGES 15.24 CUFF OPERATION SAM(SEC)
OP3 TURN COLLAR INSIDE OUT+IRON 11.658 OP1 CUFF HEM 15.45
OP4 TOPSTITCH 1 ON COLLAR 14.756 OP2 RUNSTITCH CUFF 12.152
OP5 RAW EDGE CUT+NOTCHING 13.338
OP3 TRIM STITCHED EDGES 7.074
OP6 NECKBAND HEM STITCH 16.48
OP4 TURN CUFF INSIDE OUT 4.372
OP7 NB RAW EDGE TRIM+NOTCH 15.978
OP8 COLLAR ATTACH TO NECKBAND OP5 IRON 8.634
33.54
OP9 NB INSIDE OUT OP6 TOPSTITCH 17.186
2.77
OP10 IRON 5.11 OP7 BUTTONHOLE 5.032
OP11 MARKING 11.416 TOTAL 69.9
TOTAL 178.5

BACK BACK SAM(SEC)

SAM of a shirt
OP1 MAIN LABEL ATTACH 25.714
OP2 FIT LABEL ATTACH 21.51
OP3 BACK AND YOKE ATTACH 29.73
OP4 YOKE TOPSTITCH 11.978
TOTAL 88.93
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SLEEVE OPERATION SAM(SEC)
OP1 IRON PLACKET 17.624
OP2 PLACKET PART 1 ATTACH 23.368
OP3 PLACKET PART 2 ATTACH 26.166
OP4 BUTTONHOLE (P) 12.992
OP5 BARTACK (P) 16.832
TOTAL 96.98

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 ASSEMBLY SAM(SEC)
OP1 SHOULDER ATTACH 34.524
OP2 SHOULDER T/S 25.502
OP3 COLLAR ATTACH 33.318
OP4 COLLAR CLOSE STITCH 55.48
OP5 SLEEVE ATTACH 65.298
OP6 SLEEVE T/S 29.556
OP7 TRIM EXTRA EDGES 32.828
OP8 SIDE SEAM 33.662
OP9 CUFF ATTACH 54.922
OP10 HEMMING 23.148
TOTAL 388.23

Total SAM required for a shirt is: 388.23 + 167.56 + 96.98 + 178.5 + 69.9 + 88.93 = 990.1 seconds
= 16 Minutes 30 Seconds

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Operator’s Skill Matrix:

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 UPS SYSTEM OF PRODUCTION:
Garment components are clamped in a hanger and the hanger moves on an
overhead rail. In the hanger components of a single piece is clapped.
So this is also one kind of single-piece-flow system.

ADVANTAGES OF UPS SYSTEM: DISADVANTAGES OF UPS SYSTEM:

•Bundle handling completely eliminated. •Considerations for installing a UPS include

•Pick-up and disposal time is reduced.
•Output is recorded quite easily
•Up to 40 styles can be produced
simultaneously on one system.
•Easier pickup and drop after each operation
•Throughput time and WIP is reduced.
high costs
•Proper planning has to done on how to use it
and the operators should have enough
training given to use it.
•Line balancing becomes a tough job.
•A bottleneck operation can pose a problem
as it increases WIP and also halts production.

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9. FINISHING DEPARTMENT:
• After Dispatch from assembly, the garment pieces are kept for washing which is outsourced.
• There are three washing units.
• The garments are loaded as per the loading plan given by factory planner to dispatch centre.
• The transporter enters the security gate and the security guard notes the vehicle number and scans
the identity.
• The loading is done by security guard; he counts and loads the truck

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 FINISHING PROCESS

TRIM
BUTTON BUTTON
WASHING &
MARKING ATTACH
EXAM

BUTTON FRONT THREAD

IROING
UP IROING SUCTION

FINAL MEASURMENT
INSPECTIO CHECK TAGGING FOLDING
N

CARTOONING BARRIER AUDIT BAGGING FINAL PRESS

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10. LEAN TOOLS:

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AQUARELLE LEAN HOUSE TECHNIQUE:

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THANK YOU

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