DIFFERENT TYPES OF

SEAM STITCHES

WITH THEIR STEPS

OF CONSTRUCTON AND
APPLICATIONS
 STEPS OF CONSTRUCTION FOR SUPERIMPOSED
SEAM

• Cut a 12” by 12” muslin fabric swatch into two, parallel to the
grain line.
• Overlap the two pieces and sew a line of stitching 3/8″ from the
edge of the fabric.
• Reverse stitching should be done in the starting and the end to
lock the stitch.

APPLICATION OF SUPERIMPOSED SEAMS

• Side seams of skirts

• In seams of jeans
• Dress stacks
• Finishing belts ends
• Attaching elastic to waistline
• Ends of waist bands on jeans
• Collars or cuffs seamed and stitched
 STEPS OF CONSTRUCTION FOR TOP
STITCHED SEAM

• Cut a 12” by 12” muslin fabric swatch into two, parallel to the
grain line
• Overlap the two pieces and sew a line of stitching 3/8″ from the
edge of the fabric.
• Reverse stitching should be done in the starting and the end to
lock the stitch.
• Turn the fabric to the right side
• Then sew a line of stitching half way away from the previous
stitch with edges fold to one side

APPLICATIONS OF TOP STITCHED SEAM

• Used in garments edges such as necklines and hems

• Used in seams of jeans, in side seams of skirts, dress slacks
• End of waist bands on jeans
• Finishing belt ends
STEPS OF CONSTRUCTION FOR FLAT AND
FELLED SEAM
• Cut a 12” by 12” muslin fabric swatch into two, parallel to the
grain line
• Overlap the two pieces and sew a line of stitching 4/8″ from the
edge of the fabric.
• Reverse stitching should be done in the starting and the end to
lock the stitch.
• Cut roughly half of the seam allowance off, on one side of the
seam only
• Fold the uncut edge over the cut edge and press
• Press the seam towards the garment, with the cut edge down,
so the raw edge is hidden.
• Sew as close to the edge as possible.

APPLICATIONS OF FLAT AND FELLED SEAM

• Used for giving a sporty look to different garments.

• They can be seen on shirts, trousers, blouses, skirts as well as
casual slacks.
• The seams can be found on several outdoor fabric items like
backpacks, hammock and tents as well as on accessories like tote
bags.
STEPS OF CONSTRUCTION FOR LAPPED SEAM
• Cut a 12” by 12” muslin fabric swatch into two, parallel to the
grain line.
• Fold one piece to 3/8” then overlap the two pieces from the
folded side of one piece and the edge of the other piece.
• Reverse stitching should be done in the starting and the end
to lock the stitch.
• Sew a line of stitching as close to the edge of the fabric as
possible.

APPLICATIONS OF LAPPEED SEAM

• Main seaming of denim jackets, jeans and overalls

• Fabrics that will not ravel
• Unlined garments, side seams of shirts
• Joining lace to another fabrics
• Attaching patch pockets and decorative finish
 STEPS OF CONSTRUCTION FOR SLOT SEAM
• Cut a 12” by 12” muslin fabric swatch into two, parallel to the
grain line
• Overlap the two pieces and sew a line of stitching 6/8″ from
the edge of the fabric.
• Stitch should be temporary and should not be reverse
stitched.
• Press to open the seam and then attach a 2” by 12” to the
opened seam
• Stitch from the front side of the fabric at 3/8” from the
stitched seam on both the sides.
• Then unstitch the first one with seam reaper.

APPLICATIONS OF SLOT SEAMS

• Finishing necklines
• Sleeve hems
• Inside waistbands of trousers and pants
• Finishing seams on unlined jackets and coats
• Finishing raw edges and continuing the motif design of lace
STEPS OF CONSTRUCTION FOR HONG KONG
SEAM
• Cut a 12” by 12” muslin fabric swatch into two, parallel to the
grain line
• Overlap the two pieces and sew a line of stitching 5/8″ from
the edge of the fabric.
• Reverse stitching should be done in the starting and the end
to lock the stitch.
• Press to open the seam
• Cut 2 pieces of fabric of 2” by 12” each and fold each piece in
half so the raw edge meets the center of the piece of the fabric
• Attach both the pieces to the edge of the fabric and stitch it as
close to the edge as possible.

APPLICATIONS OF HONG KONG SEAM

• Adding a design detail

• Cording, piping, tucking, welting, box or inverted pleating
• Decorative stitching
STEPS OF CONSTRUCTION FOR MOCK FRENCH
SEAM
• Cut a 12” by 12” muslin fabric swatch into two, parallel to the
grain line.
• Overlap the two pieces and sew a line of stitching 5/8″ from the
edge of the fabric.
• Reverse stitching should be done in the starting and the end to
lock the stitch.
• Press to open the seam and fold the raw ends of the seam to
the center of the seam and press.
• Bring both the edges together and press.
• Edge stitch 1/8” from the folded edge.

APPLICATIONS OF MOCK FRENCH SEAM

• Used on the curve parts of the garments like armhole
• Used on sheer fabrics like organza, voile, chiffon, georgette
STEPS OF CONSTRUCTION FOR DOUBLE TOP
STITCHED SEAM

• Cut a 12” by 12” muslin fabric swatch into two, parallel to the
grain line.
• Overlap the two pieces and sew a line of stitching 4/8″ from the
edge of the fabric.
• Reverse stitching should be done in the starting and the end to
lock the stitch.
• Press to open the seam.
• Turn the fabric to the right side and stitch at the distance of
2/8” from both the sides of seam.

APPLICATIONS OF DOUBLE TOP STITCHED

SEAM

• A patch pocket is usually attached to a garment with this seam

stitch
• Used in caps
• Collars and cuffs and attaching elastic to waistline
STEPS OF CONSTRUCTION FOR EDGE SEAM

• Cut a 12” by 12” muslin fabric swatch into two, parallel to the
grain line.
• Overlap the two pieces and sew a line of stitching 5/8″ from the
edge of the fabric.
• Reverse stitching should be done in the starting and the end to
lock the stitch. Turn the fabric to the right side
• Then sew a line of stitching as close to the previous seam as
possible.

APPLICATIONS OF EDGE SEAM

• Used in waistbands, necklines, binding
• Used when a garment needs subtle stitching
• Sometimes used as decorative
STEPS OF CONSTRUCTION FOR FRENCH SEAM

• Cut a 12” by 12” muslin fabric swatch into two, parallel to the
grain line.
• Overlap the two pieces and sew a line of stitching 5/8″ from the
edge of the fabric.
• Reverse stitching should be done in the starting and the end to
lock the stitch.
• Fold the fabric to the front side and stitch on the edge of the
previous seam.

APPLICATIONS OF FRENCH SEAM

• Used when the fabric is too delicate to overcast the seam

allowance to prevent reveling
• Side seams on blouse made of sheer fabric
• Used in dainty handmade underwear
• Used in aprons
STEPS OF CONSTRUCTION FOR WELT SEAM
• Cut a 12” by 12” muslin fabric swatch into two, parallel to the
grain line.
• Overlap the two pieces and sew a line of stitching 5/8″ from
the edge of the fabric.
• Reverse stitching should be done in the starting and the end
to lock the stitch.
• Cut roughly 1/8” of the seam allowance off, on one side of
the seam only
• Fold the uncut edge over the cut edge and press
• Press the seam towards the garment, with the cut edge
down, so the raw edge is hidden.
• Sew as close to the cut end as possible.

APPLICATIONS OF WELT SEAM

• Usually used in lined garments or bags.

• Used in bulky fabrics like felt and synthetic leathers
• On women’s shirts on the yoke treatment
• Used in winter coats
• Used in women’s tailored shirtwaist dresses, tailored blouses
and yokes of garments