TILE SETTING WORKS

PREPARED BY:

ENGR. DON R. ORIDO

CIVIL ENGINEER
DOLE ACCREDITED SAFETY CONSULTANT
TESDA ACCREDITED TRAINOR / ASSESSOR
LLDA/EMB ACCREDITED POLLUTION CONTROL OFFICER

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 LESSON 1
PREPARE CONSTRUCTION MATERIALS AND TOOLS
• Adhered - When used in reference to stone, the term describes the stone
being secured and supported onto an approved backing by an approved
bonding agent.
• Adhesive - A substance that bonds two materials to one another, also
called glue.
• Alabaster - A type of gypsum that has a fine grain and is usually white. The
term is often inaccurately applied to marble with a fine grain. Alabaster is
easily cut and carved with a knife or saw.
• Back-buttering - Applying a layer of adhesive, such as glue, to the back of
a stone tile before installation in order to ensure the proper coverage of
mortar. This process helps prevent future cracking of the tiles.
• Backsplash - A section of wall typically located above a counter and below
a cabinet, usually 16-18 inches in height, protected by stone or tile.

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• Brick Trowel - Used primarily on brick but is also popular in the 5″ x 11″
size by tile setters using it for terra cotta and quarry tile work.
• Buttering - The process of spreading a coating of bonding material,
followed by a mortar or adhesive coat, to the back of a tile immediately
before the tile is placed.
• Caulking - Sealing a joint with an adhesive.
• Caulk - A flexible substance which is spread into joints to create a barrier
against air and water.
• Cement - An adhesive that sets by the process of a chemical reaction.
• Cement Mortar - A mixture of cement, sand, and water which is used to
bond tile to a base such as a floor or wall.
• Crack - A split in the surface of a floor.
• Dry Set Mortar - A mortar made of cement and applied in a thickness not
greater than 3/16″.
• Epoxy Adhesive - An adhesive containing a hardener and epoxy resin that
is used to adhere tiles to a surface beneath the tile.
• Epoxy Grout - A type of grout containing a hardener and epoxy resin that
is used to fill grout lines and to fill joints.
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• Epoxy Resin - A flexible resin, often used as an adhesive, that is usually
made by the polymerization of an epoxide.
• Floor Tile - A tile which is durable enough to be installed in flooring that is
used daily.
• Grout - Mortar used to fill grout lines and joints which is available in a
number of colors.
• Grouting - The process of filling grout lines or joints with grout.
• Grouting Float - A trowel which is used to firmly push grout into joints.
• Impervious Tile - Tile that is water resistant with an absorption rate of no
more than 0.5%.
• Latex-Portland Cement Grout - Portland cement grout which has a latex
additive that results in a less permeable and less rigid grout when
compared to regular Portland cement grout.
• Mortar - A cement mixture that contains water, lime, and sand that is used
to join masonry to another surface.

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• Mosaic - A pattern created with small pieces of a material, typically made
of stone, tile, or glass.
• Mosaic Tile - Small pieces of tiles which are laid together to form designs.
• Mounted Tile - Tile that has been pre-mounted by paper, mesh, resin, or
another material.
• Natural Stone - Stone found in nature such as marble, granite, slate,
limestone, sandstone, or travertine.
• Notched Trowels - Trowels used to apply bonding materials to tile. The
trowel may have square teeth or be serrated and comes in various sizes.
The tooth size determines the depth of the mortar.
• Pointing Trowel - The most extensively used trowel in the tile setting
industry. It is used in every phase and comes in sizes ranging from 4″ to 7″.
It is mainly used in placing mortar in small spaces, and marking floated
surfaces. The end of the handle may be used to tap tiles into place that
have shifted.

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• Quarry - It is where stone is extracted from the earth.
• Quarry Block - A piece of stone, usually rectangular in shape, that comes
from the quarry.
• Sealer - A coat that is applied to the surface of a floor prior to the
application of other coats in order to prevent subsequent coats from
seeping into the flooring. It may also be applied at the end of the process
as a protective measure.
• Sealant - An elastic adhesive compound used to seal the joints of stone
veneer.
• Spacer - A small device used to evenly space tiles during installation. It
may be shaped as a cross, T, or Y.
• Substrate - The surface upon which stone tile is placed.
• Texture - The quality of the stone surface independent of color.
• Tile - A thin stone unit of uniform size usually less than 3/4″ thick. A tile is
a manufactured piece of hard-wearing material such as ceramic , stone ,
metal, or even glass .

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 MATERIALS AND TOOLS

Ceramic tile Plumb and level

Glass tiles Tile cutters
Clay tiles Utility knife
Vinyl tiles Beating block
Granite stone Pail or bucket and sponge
Quarry tiles Knee pads
Vibro Sand Plumb and level
Tile Grout Common float/grout float
Tile Adhesive Finishing trowel
Pointed trowel
Plumb bob
Tile spacer

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1. Ceramic Tile - is a less expensive material used in tile setting.
While not all ceramic tiles are cheap, it is possible to find
bargain ceramic tiles which can be used to add beauty to your
home.

Kinds of Ceramic Tile:

1.1. Glazed Tiles- with smooth shiny surface

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1.2. Unglazed Tiles-usually not shiny and with porous surface.

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2. Vinyl Tile - is a flooring material that is generally inexpensive,
easy to install, and easy to maintain. It is made from polyvinyl
chloride resins and plasticizers. These flooring tiles are
waterproof and very durable.

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3. Quarry Tile - The tile that comes from quarries. Quarry tile has
a rough surface, so that it is perfect for flooring because
it provides a good grip. But the quarry tile is not good for
kitchen countertops because it is very porous.

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4. Granite Tile - is popular in the kitchen design tiling. It is
attractive but unlike quarry tile it is porous, so it must
be sealed and polished on a regular basis

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5. ABC TILE ADHESIVE - is a cement-based adhesive designed for
bonding all types of tiles for floor & wall tile installations.
Application areas include indoor & outdoor concrete surfaces
using the thinbed method. This is primarily used for low
porosity tiles, glass mosaic tiles, stoneware & all types of large
format tiles. It is highly recommended for outdoor tiling, pool
& water features & all heavy-foot traffic areas.

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6. Sand – is a granular material composed of finely divided
rock and mineral particles. It is defined by size, being finer
than gravel and coarser than silt.

7. Grout -Mortar used to fill grout lines and joints which is

available in a number of colors.

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8. Cement - is a binder, a substance used for construction that sets, hardens,
and adheres to other materials to bind them together. There are two main
forms of cement: Geopolymer cement and Portland Cement. Cement is
seldom used on its own, but rather to bind sand and gravel together.
Cement mixed with fine aggregate produces mortar for masonry, or with
sand and gravel, produces concrete. Cement is the most widely used
material in existence and is only behind water as the planet's most-
consumed resource.

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 TOOLS USED IN TILE SETTING

1. Common Float - wooden float used in

spreading and leveling fresh concrete

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2. Grout float - This is a rubber-backed, rectangular trowel for
spreading the grout. It resembles the common float.

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3. Finishing Trowel - It looks like a common float but made of flat
steel.

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4. Pointed Trowel - The most extensively used trowel in the tile
setting industry. Mainly used in straightening tiles,
placing mortar in small spaces. The end of the
handle may be used to tap tiles into place that
have shifted.

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5. Notched and Margin Trowels - are used in spreading concrete
and at the same time create wavy surface to
enable the underneath part of tile to easily stick
on the concrete.

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6. Tile Spacer - used to keep each tile an equal distance apart
during tile installation. Spacers make it possible to keep
straight grout lines and square tiles together as the adhesive
dries.

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7. Level Bar - used to check the vertical as well as horizontal
alignment of structures to be tiled.

8. Plumb bob - It is very accurate in testing the vertical

alignment of walls and posts.

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9. Spacer Puller - Remove spacers after tiles have been placed
but before they fully adhere.

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10. Mallet - is a kind of hammer, usually of rubber, or sometimes
wood with a large head used to drive beating block.

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11. Caulking gun - purposely intended for applying caulk.

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12. Tile Cutters and Nippers

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13. Utility knives -are multi-purpose cutting tools used in various
trades and crafts. These tools are needed to mark
cut lines, trim plastic or wood materials, or to cut
tape, cord, cardboard, or other materials

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14. Beating Block- used to set the tile in place
which is driven by a rubber mallet. The
idea here is not to hammer the tile but just
to firmly seat the tile into the setting bed.

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15. Tile Edge Smoothing Stone or Grinder - used specifically to
smoothen the rough edges of tiles especially after
it is cut.

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16. Seam sealer - seals cracks, crevices and body seams, plus
waterproofs and insulates.

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17. Water bucket with sponge - used to clean left out dirt or
excesses during tiling process.

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18. Haze Remover - removes stains left on tiles after tiles were
installed.

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19. Knee pads - used to protect knees in the tiling process.

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20. Pull-Push Rule

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 LESSON 2
SIZES AND THICKNESS OF TILES

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SIZE AND THICKNESS OF TILES

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 LESSON 3
BASIC QUESTIONS IN TILE SETTING
1. What is the ratio of cement and sand?
A basic mixture of mortar can be made using the volume
proportions of 1 water : 2cement : 3 sand. Most of the
student activities can be conducted using this basic mixture.

2. Can you lay floor tiles on sand and cement?

To lay tiles with sand-cement traditional way is to apply the
mixture of sand-cement in lump on tiles' back so it has to be
done with one tile at a time.

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3. How do you calculate tile mortar?
Divide the square footage of your project by 95 (the maximum
coverage of a 50-pound bag of thinset. For example, a 10-by-
12-foot room is 120 square feet; divided by 95, the result is
1.26. Round the number up to the next whole number. You'll
need two 50-pound bags for this project.

4. How thick should floor tile mortar be?

The terms thinset cement, thinset mortar, dryset mortar, and
drybond mortar are synonymous. This type of cement is
designed to adhere well in a thin layer - typically not greater
than 3/16th thick. For example, a 3/8" notch trowel will
produce a 3/16th inch thick coating after the tiles are pressed
in to the cement.

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5. Why use tile adhesive instead of sand and cement?
Laying tiles by using tile adhesive with notched trowel
requires less amount of material. Adhesive layer is a lot
thinner than the mixture of sand-cement, and this leads to
lighter load to building structure. A bag of 20 kg tile adhesive
can be used to lay tiles on the average area of 4 - 5 m2.

6. Can I mix tile adhesive by hand?

Generally speaking, mixing ceramic tile adhesive is not a hard
task, provided you use the right materials and tools.
Consequently, you can mix the adhesive by hand(you can use
a margin trowel) or mechanically (you should use a drill
machinery with torque control and a mixing palette).

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7. How thick should the wall tile adhesive be?
For thin bed fixing of tiles, the minimum finished thickness of
the adhesive should not be less than 3mm.

8. How thick should wall tile adhesive be?

Apply the adhesive to the surface with an appropriate notch
trowel: as a general guide use a 6mm notch trowel to achieve
a 1mm bed thickness for walls; 10mmnotch to achieve an
approximate 1.5mm bed thickness for concrete floors; 12mm
notch trowel to achieve a 2.5mm bed thickness for timber
floors.

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9. How long does it take for tile adhesive to dry?
Approximately 24 hours, under normal circumstances, you will
need to let it dry for approximately 24 hours after installation
before you can walk on the tile. There is another type of tile
adhesive that is designed to dry faster than that, usually in
about 4 to 6 hours.

10. What's the difference between grout and adhesive?

Grout is pourable and mortar is not, and other than a higher
water content, mortar contains lime and grout does not. A
mortar or paste for filling crevices, especially the
gaps between wall or floor tiles, while it is also sometimes
referred to as a “mortar” is an adhesive.

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 11. How to determine the number of tiles you need?

Floor Area = 200 x 300 Tile Area = 40 x 40

= 60,000 sq. cm. = 1,600 sq. cm.

200 cm
40 cm

300 cm 40 cm

Number of Tiles (40cm x 40cm ) = 60,000 sq. cm. / 1,600 sq. cm.
= 37.5 say 38 pcs.
Plus 10% Wastage Allowance = 41.8 say 42 pcs. 42
12. How much adhesive do I need for floor tile?
Based on the formula of 1.8 kgs of adhesive per 1mm depth
per square meter.

13. How much grout do I need for tile?

Average Coverage. A 25-pound bag of
dry grouting compound, when mixed with water, usually is
sufficient to grout around 200 square feet of typical 4 1/4-
inch square ceramic tile that is 1/4 inch thick, with 1/8-
inch grout lines.

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14. What is the quantity of cement for 100 sq. m. tiling work?

Assume mortar thickness = .025 m

Given area= 100m2
Cement content=350 kg/m3
Quantity of mortar= .025 x 100 = 2.5m3
Quantity of cement= 2.5 x 350 = 875 kg

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15. What is the gap between tiles called?
The space between the tiles is called a “grout joint” and the
main reason grout joints exist are to accommodate for slight
sizing differences from tile to tile that are created during the
manufacturing process.

16. What is standard tile spacing?

If you want a standard look, tile installers
recommend grout lines of 1/16 inch for walls and 1/8 inch for
floors. For regular-format tiles, between 12 by 12 and 16 by
16 inches, you can stay with those measurements or go up to
3/16, depending on the tile and the look you want.

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 LESSON 4
SAMPLE MATERIAL ESTIMATES

Floor Area = 100sqm. Tile Area = 0.40m x 0.40m = 0.16sqm.

1. Total Number of Tiles = 100/0.16 = 625 pcs.

+ 5% for Wastage (5% x 625)
= 625 + 32 = 657 pcs.

2. Using Dry Pack Method (Topping Thickness = 50mm = 0.05m)

Mix Ratio = 1 Cement : 3 Sand
Use Measuring Box of 0.30m Length, 0.30m Width & 0.30m Height
Volume of Sand per Box = (0.30 x 0.30 x 0.30) x 3 = 0.081cu.m.
Total Volume of Sand = 100sq.m. X 0.05m = 5 cu.m.
Total Number of Cement = 5cu.m./0.081cu.m. = 62 bags 46
3. Adhesive ( Thickness = 1.50mm )
1 Bag Adhesive for 60 pcs. of 40cm X 40cm Tile
Total Adhesive = 657 pcs. Tiles / 60 pcs. Tiles
= 11 Bags

4. Grout
1 Bag = 25 Kgs.
1 Kilo Grout for Area of 2.40 sq. m.
Total Grout = 100 sq.m. Floor Area
2.40 sq.m.
= 42 Kgs. Say 2 Bags

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 LESSON 5
STEPS IN TILE-SETTING
1. Prepare the tools and materials needed
2. Prepare the Surface. Make sure your surfaces are
clean, smooth, and dry for best results
3. Begin Your Layout
4. Apply the Adhesive
5. Cut Tile as Needed
6. Set Your Tile
7. Apply grouts to Joints
8. Clean the area, including the tools and materials
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A. PREPARING TO INSTALL FLOOR TILES
• First, make sure you have prepared the subfloor properly
before you begin laying tile. Before beginning, remove tiles
from the different boxes and randomly mix them to ensure
that minor color differences don’t form an unwanted pattern
in your new floor.

• Keep in mind that floor tiles should be laid with the first tile
centered in the middle of the floor, working onward from
that.

• Before you start, remember that using the correct trowel and
mortar is critical to a successful tile project. Floor or wall,
indoors or outdoors installation, tile type and size are to be
considered.
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B. STEPS IN INSTALLING FLOOR TILES
1. Mix unmodified mortar in a bucket, mortar must not be dry
or too wet.

2. Starting at the reference line cross in the middle of the room,

spread the mortar with the thin side of the trowel in areas
about 1m x 1m. Make sure that the reference lines are visible.

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3. Apply the mortar using the notched side of the trowel held at
a 45 degree angle. Comb the mortar in one straight direction
to ensure uniform application.

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4. Remove excess mortar with the trowel and return it to the
bucket.

5. Lay the first tile square at the crossing of the reference lines.
For best results, lightly press and twist the tiles to set them in
the mortar.

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6. Place tile spacers at the edges of the first tile.

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7. Continue laying tiles in the same manner along the reference
lines, then add spacers.

8. Once you have completed a work section, use a rubber

mallet and carpenter’s level to level the tile.

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9. Remove any excess mortar with a damp sponge.

10. Continue applying mortar and laying the tile in work sections
in the same manner. Make adjustments as needed so the tiles
are aligned straight, especially along the longest dimension of
the room where variations will show.

11. Apply mortar and set the cut tile in position. Add tile spacers
as needed.

12. Allow the mortar to dry for at least 24 hours or as

recommended by the manufacturer before continuing.

Remember:
• For tiles that are 30cm X 30cm or larger it’s a good idea to
back-butter or flat-coat the backs of the tiles with mortar
prior to setting the tiles. 55
C. CUTTING AND FITTING THE TILES
As you near cabinets, doorways, walls, and other flooring
stops, trim tiles as needed for installation. Use a tile cutter for
small, straight cuts. For making curved cuts, you can use tile
nippers. If the tile is too thick for nippers, try the following
methods:

1. Mark the curve on the tile.

2. Make relief cuts using tile cutter.
3. Snap off the pieces with tile nippers.
4. Use a file to smooth down the edges. Use a tile edging strip
along carpet, wood flooring and other entry ways. Just spread
and set the strip in the mortar. The tile will hold it in place.
5. Remember to cut tiles an extra 1/4 inch smaller at the edge of
the flooring to allow for mortar and expansion.
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D. SMOOTHING BREAKS IN TILES

Jagged Edges: Use tile nippers or pliers to nibble off the uneven
edge of a broken tile.

Rough Edges: Use a round file to smooth rough edges of areas

that have been nibbled away.

Cut Edges: If a straight-cut edge shows, rub it against a sheet of

80-grit aluminum oxide sandpaper to round and smooth the
edge.

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E. STEPS IN GROUTING FLOOR TILES

1. Remove the tile spacers from between tiles.

2. Mix the grout following the manufacturer’s instructions. Make

sure you use the proper water-to-mix ratio for a paste-like
consistency. To mix the grout, do not use Well Water, use Tap
Water.

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3. Apply the grout into the joints, then diagonally across the
joints with a rubber grout float, removing as much excess as
possible.

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4. Allow the grout to dry for 20 minutes or as recommended by
the manufacturer.

5. Wipe the grout lines in a circular motion with a sponge and

water to set the grout just below the tile surface. Follow up
with a grout haze remover to clean the tile.

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6. Once the grout is installed, avoid heavy traffic on the floor for
at least 72 hours to allow the grout to dry.

7. Wait approximately three weeks for the grout to cure

completely before sealing the grout.

8. Apply a grout sealer to the joints following the manufacturer’s

instructions.

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9. Install any trim-work or transition strips.

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 INSTALLING WALL TILES
1. Do The Layout
Proper layout and pre-planning of the tile installation is essential
for a great looking job. Done properly, the tile installation will
look balanced, level and symmetrical. A job without proper
attention paid to layout will look unbalanced with odd tile cuts
and will be readily noticeable to the observer.

a. Start by locating the center of the wall to be tiled or the center

of the most dominant/visible portion of the wall.

b. Locate the center of the tile field precisely and using

a standard level , mark a vertical line in the center of the wall.

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c. Determine if this center mark is for the center of a grout joint
or center of a tile. We recommend using the mark to locate the
center of a grout joint as it will be much more precise.

d. Check the vertical layout of the tiles and see how they work
under the upper cabinets or another fixed element. In this
tutorial we had about 1-1/2 inches left over between full tiles
and the bottom of the upper cabinets. As a result, we chose to
use a 3/4" x 6" trim tile at the top of the subway tile field which
we will use to fill in most of the gap.

e. Same issue at the top of the wall over the sink. We will use the
same trim tile to cap off the top of the wall at a height that was
just below the top of the wall cabinets.

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2. Apply Ceramic Tile Adhesive
Once the layout is complete, and your horizontal and vertical
reference lines have been established, you can begin to apply
adhesive. You will need a 3/16" x 5/32" V-notched wall trowel
(or as otherwise recommended for your tile size), a bucket with
warm water and a sponge (for cleaning the trowel) and of
course, tile adhesive.

Here are the steps needed to make the adhesive application go

smoothly:

• Starting at the center of your work point you will be applying

tile from the bottom up. Apply the adhesive to the wall with
the flat side of the trowel blade.

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• Spread the adhesive as a skim coat again using the flat side of
the trowel blade. Do not over apply adhesive and only apply
as much as you can cover with tile in 20-30 minutes.

• Apply a little more adhesive to the trowel on the notched end

and with the trowel held at a 45° angle to the wall, drag it
along the adhesive "combing" it in a uniform direction. Make
sure to cover the area to receive tile fully.

• In preparation of installing the first row of tile above the

countertop, place 1/8" spacers about 4" apart or so along the
bottom of the wall at the counter.

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3. Press Anchor Tile Sheet Into Adhesive
Set the first or anchor tile sheet into position. It is referred to as
an anchor tile sheet because the rest of the tile installation will
grow from this point.

Once the adhesive is applied to the wall, you have maybe 10 - 20

minutes to apply the tile for that area.

To set the tile in place proceed as follows:

• Place the first tile sheet precisely in position. Make sure to

align the center of the tile or grout joint with the marked
layout center line on the wall.

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• Set the first row of tiles on the tile spacers installed when the
adhesive was applied.

• Check the tiles for level using a torpedo level.

• Press each tile firmly into place flattening the peaks and
valleys of the adhesive and creating a uniform bonding
surface between the tile and the wall.

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4. Clean the Trowel Often

As you proceed with the application of tile adhesive, you will find
the trowel gets quickly "gunked up." Make a habit of cleaning
the trowel often in a bucket with warm water. Have a sponge
and paper towel ready to clean and dry the trowel.

5. Continue Installation of Tiles

With the anchor tile sheet in place, you now continue installing
tiles ( mounted to tile sheets ).

STEP 1: Apply tile adhesive with a V-notched trowel as described

earlier.

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STEP 2: Set the adjacent tile sheet into place making sure to
place a tile, so you have equal spacing and aligned tile joints. Tile
sheets will not always have exactly spaced tile joints.

The tile sheet joint gaps ranged from 1/8" to 1/16", so when you
place an adjacent tile sheet into position, the joints may not
exactly line up. In those cases, use tile spacers as required to
support a sagging tile or spread apart two tiles that are too close
together.

STEP 3: Place tile spacers on the top of each row of tiles so the
next sheet sets on top of these spacers. It is often best to place
them, so the spacers touch the adhesive and that holds them in
place.

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STEP 4: Continue with installing each adjacent FULL TILE sheet.
Stop when a sheet requires a cut tile. Do those sheets last.

THINGS TO CONSIDER:
• Scrape off any extra adhesive from the wall that extends
beyond the tile or tile sheet being applied if you are not going
to apply tile to the area immediately. You do not want to let
adhesive harden unused on the wall.
• Make sure to keep the grout joints clear when setting the tile.
Use a wooden stick or some other device to clear any
adhesive that worked its way more than halfway to the tile
surface between the tile joints.
• Use a damp sponge or cloth to wipe any adhesive from the
face of the tile. The adhesive is very difficult to remove once
dry and very simple to clean when wet. Make sure to keep
your work clean.
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6. Cut Tile Around Outlets and Switches

• As you apply more tile, you will soon find yourself faced with
the requirement to cut and mount tiles around a switch or
outlet.

• The trick to installing tile around electrical devices is to cut the

tile close enough to the electrical device so that the edges will
be covered with the switch cover plate, but not too close, so
the tile obstructs mounting screws needed to fasten the
devices to the electrical box.

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• Cut the tile with a snap tile cutter. The tile is placed into
position in the tile-cutter. When cutting tile, you must make
sure to use eye protection.

• You may also need to use tile nippers for small tile cuts or
adjustments. For small tile pieces, you may need to back
butter the tile with adhesive.

• If you are doing a project with thick ceramic tile (over 3/8") or
porcelain tile, you will need to use a diamond blade wet saw
which can be rented or purchased.

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7. Install Finish Trim Pieces
Install any trim pieces such as the nominal 1" x 6" cap tile shown
in the photo above.

8. Transfer Cut Dimensions

• With running bond brick pattern tile such as subway tile, the
tile sheets interlock. This can make things a little tricky when
trying to measure where to cut tile at an end wall situation.
• The easiest way is to flip the tile sheet upside down, hold it
away from the wall the distance of the grout joint width and
mark the tile where the cut should go, again allowing for a
grout joint.
• Then take the tile sheet to the snap tile cutter or wet saw for
trimming to the correct size.

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9. Maintain Tile Gap at End Wall

• Maintain a grout joint width at the end wall joint. When

placing the tile sheets, they will sometimes want to droop or
push into the gap. In that case, use a shim or tile spacer to
maintain a consistent gap at the end wall.

10. Work Up the Wall to Completion

• Proceed to tile up the wall to a point where you will end the
subway tile. Install any trim pieces and cut around any other
devices such as the light fixture.

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11. Completed Tile Setting - Ready for Tile Grouting

• Once the tile is set in place, take a step back and appreciate
your work. Your job is now done.

• Now let the tile adhesive dry for 24-72 hours before grabbing
your tile grouting tools and grouting the tile.

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THANK YOU !!!

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