Apparel Manufacturing-II

Apparel Washing (Wet Process)

Shah Md. Maruf Hasan
Lecturer, Dept. of Apparel Engineering
Bangladesh University of Textiles
(WPE+DCE+TMDM+IPE+TFD)
What is Apparel Washing
The technology which is used to modify the appearance, color,
outlook, comfortability, design, fashion etc of apparel and given old
look effect which can not possible any other method is called apparel
washing.
 Objectives of Apparel Washing
To remove size materials from the apparel which is the most important function of washing
To remove any dirt, dust, spot, impurities or germ which is added in apparel during washing
Due to washing shrinkage occurs in the garments. There is no possibility of further shrinkage of
wash garments, i.e the consumers do not have to worry about the fit of the apparel
To attract the customer by using different types of fashionable washing and market development
To produce faded or old look affect in the garments by removing dye or pigment in regular or
irregular pattern
To develop softness in fabric by removing the hardness of fabric
To produce similar or different outlook in apparel by different washing technique
To wear directly the garments after purchasing from store or shop
Effect of Apparel Washing
Change in appearance of apparel
Change in color
Change in size
Change outlook of garments
Change in comfort
Change in fashion
Create color or tinted affect
Attracts customer or buyer
Flow chart of Apparel Washing
Batch or Lot selection
↓
loading in washing machine
Selection of M : L Ratio
↓
Pretreatment
↓
Washing
Unload
↓
Hydro extracting
↓
Drying

Quality check
↓
Packing
↓
Delivery
Machine used in Apparel washing plant
1. Apparel Washing machine
2. Hydro extractor
3. Drying machine
4. Boiler
Apparel washing Machine
Washing machine is the machine used to wash the various types of clothes without applying any
physical efforts. With washing machine you don't have to rub the clothes with hand or squeeze
them to remove the water from them. The washing machine is also called as clothes washer or
simply the washer.

Type of Garment Washing Machine:

Vertical loading washing machine.

Horizontal loading washing machine.
Apparel washing Machine
Machine parts & functions:
There is dial and pointer in the panel board which facilities presetting of processing time with
alarm system
Water can loaded in the machine through water inlet valve, at the end of processing, liquor
should be drained out through water outlet valve
Steam is supplied from the boiler through steam pipe. Washing temperature is controlled by a
dial and indicator situated at panel board of the machine pre-set temperature by controlling the
steam supply on-off through the steam pipe
The inner cylinder cylinder is perorated having two stainless steel side shafts and two spring
loaded doors. The side shafts are fixed with machine frame through ball bearing.
Two machine pulleys are fixed with the machine frame through ball bearing which also rotated
with the help of two big high power motor and motor pulley.
Cont…..
Cont….
The inner cylinder is about 4 feet diameter and 6 feet width.
The inner cylinder has three triangular shape bars at equal distanced that is 120 degree which
confirm the rotation of apparel present inside the perforated cylinder during rotation of perforated
inner cylinder.
The outer cylinder has two sliding doors which is fixed with machine frame and the frame is
tightly fixed on the floor with heavy foundation to avoid any jerking during seperation of the
machine.
The inner cylinder can be rotated at 5 to 35 rpm through motor which has clock wise and anti
clock wise direction.
Washing Chemicals
Enzyme Micro Emulsion Silicon
Detergent Salt (sodium chloride)
Acetic Acid Hydrogen peroxide
Anti stain Stabilizer
Bleaching powder Fixing agent
Sodium hyposulfite Optical Brightener
Caustic Soda Resin
Soda Ash Sodium Meta bisulphite
Potassium permanganate Desizing agent
Cationic / nonionic Flax softener
Cont….
Enzyme:
The action of enzyme during enzyme wash it hydrolysis the cellulose. At first it attacks the having
projecting fibers and hydrolyzed them. Then it attacks the yarn portion inside fabric and party
hydrolyzed the yarn portion. As a result color comes out from the yarn portion and faded affect is
produced.
Detergent:
Chemical character is fatty alcohol polyglycol ether in an aqueous, glycolic solution. Detergent is
widely applicable in the continuous and discontinuous pretreatment of all types of fiber and their
blends. To remove impurities, mineral oil contamination and sizes from the garments.
Acetic Acid:
Acetic Acid is used to neutralize the garments from alkaline condition and to control the pH value
in wash bath.
Cont….
Anti stain: (LP 30,Textain Rm)
Anti stain is used to prevent the staining on weft yarn of the denim (white yarn) and increased
the brightness of fabrics; it is also acts as anti creasing agent.

Bleaching Powder:
Bleaching powder is an oxidizing agent. It is used in washing plant for colour out from the denim
garments. We can achieve deferent shade of colour on garment i.e. Dark, Medium, Light shade.

Sodium Hypo sulphite:

Sodium hypo sulphite is used to neutralize the garments from chlorine bleach.

Caustic Soda:
Caustic created the role in bleach technique with out colour change the garment and has a good
cleaning power. It is work as fading affect/old looking affect come rapidly on garments.
Cont….
Soda Ash:
Soda ash creates alkaline medium for the breakdown of pigment dye. Soda ash help to uniform
bleaching action on bleach bath. It has a cleaning power and help colour fadding affect of
garment. It is used also for colour fixing in dye bath.

Sodium Bicarbonate:
Sodium bicarbonate is used in washing plant in the bleach bath with bleaching powder for Denim
Light shade because easily color out with in shot time. As a result production increase and costing
is low.

Potassium Permanganate:
Potassium permanganate is used in Acid wash with Pumic stone for colour out from the garments.
It is used also
Cont…..
Flax Softener (Cationic, non ionic):
Softener is used to make the garments treated textiles a surface feel that is both sickly and soft and also
provides excellent lubricating properties.
Micro Emulsion Silicon:
Amino Silicon is a textile finishing agent consisting mainly of amino modified silicon. When applied
on fabrics, it gives durable softness, lubricity, elastic handle, anti pilling, dimensional stability, tear
resistance and fabric to be cut and sewn more easily allows and improving wear and easy care
properties.
Sodium Chloride (Salt):
It helps to exhaust dye in to the fiber
Desizing Agent:
Desizing agent is used to remove mainly starches, cmc, waxes, fats pectin’s, minerals & unfixed indigo
dye from denim, twills, poplin & canvas fabrics etc. Amylase is the main type of enzyme used in
desizing, as it decomposes starch to water soluble compounds (dextrine and sugar) in the sizing
preparations.
Sodium Meta bisulphite:
Sodium meta bisulphite is used in the washing plant to neutralized the garment from potassium
permanganate.
Cont…..
Hydrogen Peroxide:
Hydrogen peroxide creates the prime role in bleach wash technique. In alkaline medium,
hydrogen peroxide breaks up and gives some per hydroxhyl ion, which discolor the coloring
materials and as a result fading affect is developed. Hydrogen peroxide is used in scouring,
bleaching bath for white/ready for dyeing of gray fabric garments.
Stabilizer:
Hydrogen peroxide is work a good condition at temperature above 90°c, when temperature raise
to 90°c then break the Hydrogen peroxide. Stabilizer is used to protect break the hydrogen
peroxide and peroxide works in bath smoothly.

Optical Brightener:(Leucophore BMB,Leucophore BSB)

Two types of optical brightener are used in the washing plant –a) Red brightener. b) Blue
brightener. Mainly optical brightener is used for improve the brightness of garments
Types of Garment Washing:
Primarily garment washing are two types

1. Wet process/Chemical process

2. Dry process/Mechanical process
Cont..
1. Wet process/Chemical process 2. Dry process/Mechanical process
Normal wash/ garment wash/rinse wash Sand blasting
Pigment wash Hands scraping
Caustic wash Over all wrinkles
Enzyme wash Permanent wrinkle
Stone wash Broken and tagging
Stone enzyme wash Grinding and destroy
Super white wash PP spray and PP sponging etc.
Bleach wash
Acid wash
Silicon wash
Different types of Washing faults
Color shade variation. Bad smell due to poor neutralization.
Crease marks. Poor hand feel.
After wash hole. To high hairiness.
Very dark and very light. Poor brightness.
Bleach spot. High or low effect/abrasion on garments.
Bottom hem and course edge destroy. Spot on garments.
Out of range/ level of ph value of
garments.
Wet process
Normal Wash: The wash which is followed by detergent is called normal wash.
Objectives:
To remove dust, dirt, oil spot, impurities from the garments.
To remove size materials from the garments.
To remove starch presents on the garment fabrics.
For soft feeling to wear the garments after purchasing.
To achieve buyer washing standard.
WASHING PROCESS OF NORMAL / GARMENT WASH:
The Normal/Garment washing process of batch of 70 kg Garments are described below:-
First Step :-Pretreatment Second Step:- Softening
Lot size: -..............70 kg Twill/Canvas Garment. Add water @ L : R = 1: 6 ......... 420 litre.
Add water @ L: R = 1:10......700 Litre. Washing machine running
Machine Running. Add softner @ 0.6 gm / litre........ 252 gm.
Add detergent @ 0.5 gm / Litre ....350 gm. Add Acetic Acid @ 0.5 gm / litre.........210 gm.
Temperature.....Sometime cold & sometime 40°c Time............................5 to 10 mts.
to 60°c.
Drop the liquor.
Time ..................5 to 10 minutes.
Unload the Garments on trolley.
Drop the liquor.
Cold wash.
Normal wash……
Third Step: Hydro extraction (700-900rpm):
Hydro-extractor is used to remove excess
water from the Garments by centrifugal force
of water.
Fourth Step: Steam Dryer / Gas Dryer.
Load on steam dryer - 50 kg
Temperature - 60°c - 70°c
Time - 40 - 50 mts for dry.
Time - 10 - 15 mts for cold dry.
or
Load on gas dryer - 50 kg,
Running the machine
Temperature: - 70°c - 85°c.
Time: - 30 - 35 mts for dry.
Time: - 10 - 15 mts for cold dry.
Normal Wash……
Fifth Step:
After drying, quality is checked and good
quality Garments will be delivered to Garments
factory.
Bleach Wash
Objectives:
To produce fading or old looking effect on apparel
To remove size materials from apparel
For soft feeling of wear the apparel
To achieve buyer washing standard

A process of bleach wash of 60 kg batch of Denim Long Pant is mentioned below

Bleach wash….
First Step: PRE-TREATMENT / DESIZING
Batch size....................... 60 kg Denim Long
Pant.
Add water @ L: R = 1: 9.............. 540 litres.
Start the machine.
Temperature.................... 60°c
Add Desizing agent @ 0.6 gm / litre ....324 gm.
Add Detergent / Antistain @ 1 gm / litre.....
540 gm.
Time................................ 15 to 25 mts.
Drop the liquor.
Second Step: BLEACHING
Add water @ L: R = 1: 8.............. 480 litres.
Machine running.
Add bleaching powder (k.c.i) @ 10 gm/litre..
4800 Gms.
Add soda ash @ 5 gm/litre .......2400 Gms.
Temperature.......................................60°c.
Time (Depend upon the shade)......12 to 15 mts.
Drop the liquor.
Rinse twice, each 3 minutes.
Bleach Wash…….
Third Step: NEUTRAL WASH Fourth Step: SOFT WASH
Add water @ L: R = 1: 9.......................... 540 Add water @ L: R = 1: 8.............. 480 litres.
litres.
Add Acetic Acid @ 0.6 gm/litre .....................
Add sodium hyposulphite @ 3 gm/litre ....... 288 Gms.
1620 Gms.
Cationic softener @ 1 gm/litre ........................
Temperature 480 Gms.
......................................................... 40°c.
Time................................ 5 mts.
Time (Depend upon the shade).............. 10 to
12 mts. Drop the liquor.
Drop the liquor. Unload the garments to trolley.
Rinse one.
Bleach wash…….
Fifth Step: Hydro extractor Machine
Hydro extraction is done to remove excess
water from the washed garments.
Sixth Step: Drying Machine
◦ Load 40 kg garments
◦ Set temperature ................ 75°c to 85°c.
◦ Time ......................... 35 to 40 mts.
◦ Time ..................... 10 minutes in cold dry.
Seventh Step: Delivery
After quality checking garments will be
delivered.
 Enzyme Wash
Enzyme wash is required for the following
Enzymes are bio chemical substances that behave as reasons:
catalysts toward specific reactions. What makes very
interesting the enzymes under a chemical point of view is To remove the size materials from the garments.
their high specificity or in other words, their ability to attack
selectively a given substrate To remove the starch presents on the garments
fabrics.
Among the two traditional enzymes used in the treatments
of denim garments(amylase to hydrolyze starches and To achieve the high low abrasion (stone affect)
cellulase to degrade in different way's cotton's cellulose) on garment and seam abrasion in sewing area.
there is another enzyme that can be employed to attack Enzyme attack as chemically not mechanically
selectively the molecule that constitutes the blue indigo for this reason low damage/wastage then stone
color resulting ineffective on other kind of dyes. wash.
The action of enzyme during enzyme wash, it hydrolysis To increase the color fastness & rubbing
the cellulose, at first it attacks the having projecting fiber fastness.
and hydrolyzed them. Then it attacks the yarn portion inside
fabric and partly hydrolyzed the yarn portion and faded Enzyme improves the anti-pilling properties.
affect is produced.
Enzyme attacks more the surface of the fabrics
and gives a very smooth surface.
Pumice stone
Properties:
Pumice Stone is a volcanic rock that consists of
highly vesicular or perforated volcanic glass.
Pumice Stone float on water.
Having soaking ability due to perforated surface.
 Pumice Stone commonly originated from
Indonesia and Turkey.
Different sizes of Pumice Stones are available,
such as 2-5 cm which known as small Pumice
Stone. 3-5 cm which known as medium
size Pumice Stone. And 5-7cm which is known as
Large size Pumice Stone.
The melting temperature of Pumice Stone is
15000˚ C and pH value is 8 and the density is
2.313g/cm3.
Pumice stone…..
Advantages of Pumice Stone: Disadvantages of Pumice Stone:
There are some advantages of pumice stones, Pumice stone has some disadvantages on
those are mentioned in the below: garments, those are-
Desired vintage effect on garments can be Can be damaged washing machine due to
easily achieved by using pumice stones. stone and machine abrasion.
Washed garments can achieve more soft effect Garments can be damaged due to stone and
by using pumice stones. machine abrasion.
STONE ENZYME WASH
Now in our Bangladesh maximum Denim garment is washing STONE ENZYME WASH. It is most
popular wash for Buyer. A process of stone enzyme wash of 60 kg batch of Denim Long Pant as
mentioned
First Step: PRE-TREATMENT / DESIZING Second Step: HOT WASH
Batch size....................... 60 kg Denim Long Pant. Add water at L: R = 1: 9.............. 540 liter.
Add water atL: R = 1: 9.............. 540 liter. Temperature.................... 60°c.
Start the machine. Time................................ 5 min.
Temperature.................... 60°c
Add Desizing agent at 0.6 gm / liter .......... 324
gm.
Add Detergent / Antistain at 1 gm / liter ... 540
gm.
Time................................ 15 to 25 min.
Drop the liquor
 Stone enzyme wash……
Third Step: Enzyme treatment
Add water at L: R = 1: 8.............. 480 liter.
Add pumice stone at ½ vol of garments.
Add Enzyme at 1.50 gm/liter ..................... 720 gms.
Add Acetic Acid at 0.6 gm/liter ..................... 288
gms.
Add Antistain at 0.8 gm/liter ..................... 384 gms.
Temperature............................. 40°c to 50°c..
Time (Depend upon the shade) .......... 60 to 70 min.
Then temperature raise to 90°c for 1 minute.
Drop the liquor.
Rinse Twice, each 3 minutes.
Stone enzyme wash….
Fifth Step:-NEUTRALWASH
Add water at L: R = 1: 9..... 540 liter.
Add sodium hypo-sulphite at 3 gm/liter
..................... 1620 gms.
Temperature ......................... 40°c.
Time ............................... 10 to 12 min.
Drop the liquor.
Rinse one
Stone enzyme wash….
Sixth Step: SOFT WASH Seventh Step:-Hydro-extractor Machine
Add water at L: R = 1: 8 .......... 480 liter. Hydro-extraction the garment to remove
excess water from the washed garments
Add Acetic Acid at 0.6 gm/liter... 288 gms.
Cationic softener at 1 gm/liter.... 480 gms.
Time................................ 5 min.
Drop the liquor.
Unload the garments to trolley.
Stone Enzyme Wash…..
Eighth Step: Drying Machine Ninth Step: Delivery
Load 40 kg garments After quality checking garment will be delivery
Set temperature........ 75°c to 85°c.
Time.......................... 35 to 40 min.
Time.......................... 10 minutes in cold dry.
Super White Wash
Super white wash is done on the garments made from cotton grey fabrics. Due to this type of
wash , the garments become extremely white.
Objects:
To make white the garments.
To achieve the buyer washing standard.
For soft feeling to wear the garments.
To remove size materials from the garments, etc.
Super White Wash…….
The super white washing process of batch of 70 kg Twill/Canvas Garments are described below:-
First Step :-Pretreatment Second step: Bleaching
Lot size: -..............70 kg Twill/Canvas Garment. Add water
Add water @ L: R = 1: 8-10......560 -- 700 Litre. Hydrogen per oxide……… 12 g/l
Machine Running. Stabilizer……. 5 g/l
Add detergent @ 0.5 gm / Litre ....280-350 gm. Time: 45-60 minutes
Temperature.....40°c to 60°c. Temperature: 90°C
Time ..................5 to 10 minutes.
Drop the liquor.
Cold wash.
Super White Wash…….
Third step: Refine Bleaching
Add water
Hydrogen per oxide…….. 6 g/l
Stabilizer……. 2 g/l
Time: 15minutes
Temperature: 60°C
Fourth step: Neutralization
Add Acetic acid…….. 1%
Time: 5-10 minutes
Cold wash
Fifth Step: Brightening
Add optical brightener agent @ 0.5-0.6%
Time: 5-10 minutes
Super White Wash…….
Sixth step:
Add softener @ 0.5-1%
Time: 5-10 minutes
Seventh step: Hydro extractor
Eight step: Drying machine
Load 60kg garments to gas dryer
Machine running
Temperature: 75°C-85°C
Time: 40 minutes in hot dryer
After then run 10 minutes in cold dryer.
Ninth step: Delivery
Acid Wash
It is normally done on the garments from heavy fabrics like denim, course canvas, sweater & thick
twill etc.
Ultimate affect of Acid wash:
During Acid wash, pumic stones are used. By the action of pumic stones, irregular fading affect is
developed on the heavy garments like denims, thick canvas/twill, and sweater. The pumic stones act as
a brushing action on the garment fabric surface. The area where more brushing action takes place there
more discolour or fadding affect is developed and the area where less brushing action takes place less
brushing action and takes place less fadding affect will be developed. The multi-layer fabric areas like
– collar, calf, pocket, placket, side seam etc area will be brushed more than the single layer areas. As a
result irregular fading affect will be developed on the garments fabric surface. Thus in this way fading
affect may be developed on the garments by acid wash technique.
Acid Wash
A process of Acid wash of 60 kg batch of Denim Trouser is mentioned below
First Step: Pretreatment/Desizing.
Add water @ L : R = 1 : 10 .............. 600 litres.
Start Machine.
Add desizing agent @ 1 gm/litre .................600
Gms.
Add detergent @ 1 gm/litre ........................ 600
Gms.
Temperature............................. 60°c.
Time........................... 20 mts.
Drop the liquor.
Rinse one for 3 minutes (cold).
Second Step: Hot wash
Add water @ L: R = 1: 10.............. 600 litres.
Temperature............................. 60°c.
Time........................... 5 mts.
Drop the liquor.
Here hot wash is used to remove the adhering
materials from the garment surface.
Unload the garments from the washing m/c in
the trolley.
Load the pre treated garments in the dryer m/c.
Dry the garment completely & unload the
garments
Acid wash
Peparation of stone:
The pumic stones used for acid wash need to
pre-treat in the following chemical solution:-
Water ..................... 100 L
Potassium per manganate.............. 1000 Gms.
Phosphoric Acid............................... 250 Gms.
Stire the solution in a stainless steel tub with dry
pumic stone.
Soak the stones with the chemical solution .........
10 – 15 minutes.
The stones will pick up the solution. Then the
soaked stones are dried in the open air
for.............. 2 to 3 hrs.
Then pre-treated garment 30 – 40 kg per batch
load in the dry washing machine.
Load the per-treated stones (about 50 kg) in
washing machine.
Start machine running for each batch
........................ 7 to 10 mts.
Stop machine running.
Unload the treated garment separately. Pumic
stones with P.P. solution hit on garment surface
as a result fading will be developed.
Then load the stones treated garment in another
washing machine
Acid Wash……
Third Step: Wash for cleaning Fourth Step: Whitening/Neutralization.
Batch wt................................ 70 kg. Add water @ L: R = 1: 8.............. 560 litres.
Add water @ L: R = 1: 8.............. 560 litres. Machine running.
Add detergent @ 1 gm/litre .............560 Gms. Add Metabisulphite @ 5 gm/litre..... 2800
Gms.
Temperature............................. 40°c - 50°c.
Cold temperature.
Time ..................................10 mts.
Time 5 mts.
Drop the liquor.
Drop the liquor.
Here detergent is used to remove the
breaking stone dust and chemicals from the
garment surface.
Acid wash…..
Fifth Step: Softening
Add water @ L: R = 1: 7.............. 490 litres.
Machine running.
Add Acetic acid @ 0.6 gm/litre .....................
294 Gms.
Add Softener @ 1 gm/litre ........................ 490
Gms.
Then unload the garments.
Acid Wash……
Sixth Step: Hydro-extractor machine.
Hydro extractor machine is used to remove
excess water from the garments.
Seventh Step: Dryer machine.
After hydro extraction the garments are
sent to drying m/c for complete drying.
Eighth Step: Quality & Delivery.
After drying the garments go to quality
checking & rectify washing fault and then good
one
Pigment wash
Pigment wash is generally done on pigment dyed or printed Garments. The garments are
subjects to pigment wash.
Pigment wash is required for the following reasons:
Fading effect/old looking effect on garments and also seam areas
For soft feeling to wear the garment after purchasing
For achieving the buyer’s washing standard
For increasing the color fastness & rubbing fastness performance
Pigment wash…..
First Step: Pretreatment Second Step: Softening
Lot size: - .......... 80 kg Twill/Canvas Garment. Add water @ L : R = 1: 6 ......... 480 litre.
Add water @ L: R = 1: 8.............. 640 Litre Washing machine running
Machine Running. Add Acetic Acid (for pH 4.5 - 5.5) @ 0.5 gm /
Add Caustic soda (NAOH)..... @ 0.8 gm / liter ............ litre ............. 240 gm.
512 gm.
Add Flax softner ... . @ 0.6 gm /
Add Soda Ash (Na2Co3) ........@ 1.50 gm / litre........... liter........... 288 gm.
960 gm.
For more slippery hand feel use silicon - @ 0.4
Add Detergent ........................ @ 0.8 gm / litre ............ gm / litre.....192gm.
512 gm.
Temperature........... 50°c to 60°c. Time................................... 15 to 25 mts.
Time (Depend upon the shade) ....... 20 to 60 mts. Drop the liquor.
Drop the liquor. Unload the Garments on trolley.
Wash 1 time by hot wash for 5 mts at the temperature
50°c.
Wash 1 time by cold water for 5 mts
Pigment wash…
Third Step: Hydro- extraction
Hydro-extraction is used to remove excess
water from the Garments. Time required is about
2 - 4 minutes.
Fourth Step: Steam Dryer / Gas Dryer
Load on steam dryer - 50 kg
Running the machine
Temperature - 60°c - 70°c
Time - 40 - 50 mts for dry.
Time - 10 - 15 mts for cold dry.
or
Load on gas dryer - 50 kg,
Running the machine
Temperature: - 70°c - 85°c for dry.
Time: - 30 - 35 mts for dry.
Time: - 10 - 15 mts for cold dry
Pigment wash…
Fifth Step:
After drying, garments send to quality
section and check the garments and good
quality garments will be delivered and Deep
shade again rewashed, other quality Garments
are rectified then delivered.