3.

Knitted structures
Main chapters (We weft, Wa warp, S single faced, D double faced, P purl, I - intelock): 3.1 WeS - Weft single faced 3.2 WeD - Weft double faced 3.3 WeP - Purl 3.4 WeI - Interlock 3.5 WaS - Warp single faced 3.6 WaD - Warp double faced
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3. Knitted structures
Will be completed with: 3.7 Properties of knitted fabrics 3.71 Geometry 3.72 Mechanical properties 3.8 Special structures 3.81 Starting-up courses (fast welts) 3.82 Separating courses 3.83 Structures of fashioned fabrics
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3.1 Weft single faced structures

What properties will have structures with only one type of stitches (face)? Is it possible to create design (pattern)? How to implement additional yarns to the structure? How to create fast holes in the fabric?

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WeS-1 All-knit structures

Characteristics: curling (what is the resource of energy?), greater elongation in course direction (why?).

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Front and back side of the fabric

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WeS-1 example 1 (patterned by yarn)

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WeS-1 example 2 (with fancy yarns)

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WeS-1 example 3 (with fancy yarns)

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Stitches from monofilament yarn

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Laddering (separating) of single-faced fabric It can occur in two directions

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Spirality of fabric due to yarn twist

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WeS-1 colour patterning:

Each needle forms only stitches (knitted loops); is it possible to form some pattern? In some limits yes, for example by feeding yarns of different colours: Problem how to connect vertical boundary line.

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WeS-1 colour patterning:

Connection of relatively independent areas: Bias boundary connection by alternation of yarns in course. Upright boundary crossing of reverse kinks (by hands)

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Example of Intarsia fabric:

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Example of Intarsia fabric:

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Example of Intarsia fabric:

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WeS-2 - Structures with missing stitches

Types: A. Rib structures missing are all wales. B. Single-jersey jacquard (accordion) alternating of 2 or more yarns in one pattern course (usually coloured pattern). C. Structures with hold loops different number of stitches in different wales causes different stitches height.
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A. Rib structures
Topologically it corresponds with plain fabric, there are longer sinker loops in positions of missing needles:

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B. Single-jersey jacquard
Example. 2 courses of structure (2 yarns are fed independently) creates 1 course of pattern (design):

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B. Single-jersey jacquard example

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B. Single-jersey jacquard example

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B. Single-jersey jacquard cut off yarns

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C. Structures with hold loops

Example 2 missing stitches in the second wale. In loop diagram theoretical and more real versions.

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C. Structures with hold loops example Lateral and longitudinal colour effect

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C. Structures with hold loops - example

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WeS-3 structures with tucks stitches

Tucks change fabric geometry make fabric be wider. Example - Single cross tuck, it can show longitudinal stripping.

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Example: Cross-tuck + Plain structure

(interesting deformation of the wales and courses)

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Fred Perry (Lacoste) fabric

Interesting (fine) relief, used in gloves etc.

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WeS-3 structures with tucks stitches

Crape irregular plastic surface, exists in many variants (weaving, knitting, finishing). Example: little groups of tuck stitches. Great structure repetition is suitable.

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Crape example:

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Crape example:

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WeS-3 structures with tucks stitches

Multiplied tucks. Effect:
Spider Hold loops, often combined with spatial fabric deformation

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Multiplied tucks example:

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Multiplied tucks example:

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WeS-4 structures with complementary yarns

Connection of complementary (additional) yarns with basic structure may be done by using: a) Loop stitches (but not single!). b) Tuck stitches. c) By another way.

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Plated structures:
Stitches created by two (seldom more) yarns. Possibilities:
Chaotic plating Plain plated fabric Programmed plating (2colour design)

Similar is plated plush (terry, d)

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Plated structure example:

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Plated structure example with chaotic change of yarns position:

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Plated structure plush example:

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Sliver or High-pile Plush (from not-spun fibres, imitation of natural fur):

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Float-plated structure example:

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Single jersey inlaid (fleecy, hopsack) fabric:

Combination of tuck and float stitches

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Inlaid fabric example:

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Inlaid fabric example:

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Inlaid fabric example:

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Inlaid fabric partly combed:

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Another ways of complementary yarns connection with basic structure:

a) In direction of courses called weft yarns b) In direction of wales warp yarns

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Weft yarns in single faced fabric:

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WeS-5 - Structures with loop transfer

In single-faced structure it leads to formation of the hole through the fabric (one stitch is moved aside, next in the wale is replaced by not interloped yarn kink).

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Transfer of two stitches in opposite directions.

Leads to greater effect (hole) in the fabric. Two empty needles cannot start knitting together in the same course (danger of unravelling of fabric, Fig. b):

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Transfer of the leg

Transfer of the leg (limb) of the stitch (or one half of stitch). Result smaller hole.

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Loop (stitch) transfer examples:

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Pelerine or Eyelet
Principle, single and double variant.

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An example of pelerine structure

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3.2 Weft double faced structures (Double-Jersey)

How to increase knitting possibilities by combination of face and reverse (back) wales? How to produce patterns (colour, plastic, holes)? How to use knitting of two layers?
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WeD-1 All-knit structures

Plain structure F and R wales are in different level great extensibility in course direction, relatively great mass. No curling, fast low edge.

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Horizontal break elongation is very high

Reason: harmonica effect

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WeD-1 example
(down elongated in course direction):

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WeD-2 structures with missing loops

Possibilities: A. Rib structures missing wales. B. Floated structures alternating of 2 or more yarns in course (usually to create color pattern). C. Structures with hold stitches different number of stitches in different wales (different height of loops). D. Tubular structures .
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A. Rib structures
Differs from single-faced structures (topologically). Example: rib 2x2 (extreme deformability in course direction).
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An example of 2x2 structure

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A. Rib structures
Alternating of face and reverse wales may be described as well by another way (fraction of face / reverse wales etc.).

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A. Rib structures
Pleating fabric combination with groups of face and reverse wales uses fabric curling. Types of pleating fabrics Fig. d, e, f.

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A. Rib structure example:

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B. Floated structures
Example: Two-coloured face, one coloured (allknit of red yarn) back. Decreased breaking elongation (combination of tubular structure and 1x1 rib with weft straight yarn).
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C. Structures with hold stitches

Two-coloured face, all-knit back. Two-times more reverse stitches (curling).

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3-colours jacquard with full reverse (back):

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3-colours jacquard with full reverse:

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C. Structures with hold stitches

Two-coloured face, alternate knit and miss back. Only 1,5-times more reverse stitches. The most common way of colour designing.
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3-colours jacquard with alternating reverse:

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Colour Patterning (survey):

Face always in accordance with design. Reverse main possibilities:
All-knit Alternate knit and miss (all yarns knit, often 1:1) One-coloured The same design as on the face Complementary to the face Combination of these possibilities (for example 4 colours on the dace, 2 alternates on the back).
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Relief (3-D) designing:

Waves several only face courses after one reverse. Relief design in relief areas tubular structure with more stitches in the face side (4-times, 6times). Possible combination with colour designing.
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One-coloured relief:

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Three-coloured relief (two coloured back):

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D. Tubular structures
A. The principle: face and reverse sides are not connected (Two single faced fabrics) Fig. a. B. Milano rib one tubular and one double-faced courses alternate, Fig. b.
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D. Tubular structures
Connection of face and reverse sides by individual stitches: Could be used for colour design.

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D. Tubular structures
Change of two yarns position. Colour design on both face and reverse side (complementary colours).

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WeD-3 structures with tucks stitches

a) Half-cardigan or Royal rib b) Full-cardigan Great number of tucks causes often negative fabric shrinking

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Half-cardigan:

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Full-cardigan:

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Tubular structure connected by tuck stitches

Enables to form: Two separated layers that can be made from different material, colours

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Example:

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WeD-4 structures with complementary yarns

Not so frequent as at WeS structures. Example: weft inlayed yarn (straight, it could cause some problems with yarn stability, suitable for example for elastic yarn in welts).
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Welt of sock with rubber weft:

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WeS-5 Structures with stitch transfer

New possililities: a) Racked rib structures

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Racked rib fabric (relaxed, extended):

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Racked rib structure example:

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Racked rib structure example with tucks:

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WeS-5 Structures with stitch transfer

b) Rib loop transfer (to the opposite needle bed). Double rib loop transfer = plain loop transfer.

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Rib stitch transfer example:

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Rib stitch transfer example (effect Aran):

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Rib stitch transfer cable stitch:

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Rib stitch transfer multiplied tucks:

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Rib loop transfer great fast hole:

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Rib loop transfer single + double faced areas:

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Rib loop transfer hold stitches:

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3.3 Purl structures (weft knitted)

Which other possibilities provides using face and reverse stitches even in one wale? How it influences fabric properties? How to create design (pattern) on these conditions?

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All-knit purl structure

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Analogy with double faced structure with change of directions (courses wales) greater longitudinal deformability, appearance as plain fabric from reverse side. Formation as well by loop transfer (Fig. e).

Comparing of double faced and purl structure

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Patterning of purl structures:

Combination of areas of (for example): face stitches, reverse stitches, all-knit purl, double faced structure, 2x2 fabric etc.

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Patterning of purl structures:

Other interesting possibility:

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Patterning of purl structures:

Often used combinations: plain structure from F and R side and plain structure (back) with all-knit purl.

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Purl fabric example 1: (F and R areas)

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Purl fabric example 2:

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3.4 Interlock structures

2-in-1 weft intermeshed structures; could it be useful?

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Plain interlock structure, derived structures

a- plain, b rib, c half-gauge jersey course, d all-knit courses, e courses with tucks, f complementary yarn.

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Plain interlock structure, deformability in course direction.

Lower break elongation due to initial configuration (before load the fabric is elongated by approx. 100 %).

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Interlock example:

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3.5 Warp single faced structures

How to use wider variability of yarn path through the fabric (migration between wales)? What is result of not-feeding the yarn on the needle? Could the needle be out of action? How to create design on warp knitted fabric?
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Direction of lapping Path of the yarn through fabric:

To compare with weft structures variability. greater

The longer are parts of the yarn in particular direction, the lower is elongation in this direction.

Main types of yarn lapping:

Direct on the same needle only (pillar stitch). Alternate on two needles (tricot stitch etc.). Successive on more needles (mostly combined with alternate lapping after several courses).
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Direct lapping (pillar or chain stitch)

a) Single open pillar stitch. b) Single closed pillar stitch. c) Double pillar stitch.

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Direct lapping (pillar or chain stitch)

Numeric description of lapping (it has practical use chain links notation):
Numbered are gaps between needles. Initial and final yarn position is defined for each course (under-, overlap). Examples: a) 0-1/1-0//, b) 0-1/0,1//, c) 0-2/2-0//.

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Direct + alternate lapping example

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Alternating lapping
Tricot stitch: open 0-1/2-1//, closed 1-0/1-2//. Cord stitch: open 0-1/3-2//. Satin stitch: closed 1-0/3-4//. Lapping over two needles: open 0-2/3-1//.

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Double tricot example:

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Successive (on-going) lapping

Atlas stitch lapping successively on the 1., 2., 3. etc. needle and back. Open variant side stitches used to be closed. Lapping: Open: 1-0/1-2/2-3/3-4/4-5/4-3/3-2/2-1// Closed: 1-0/2-1/3-2/4-3/4-5/3-4/2-3/1-2//

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Atlas example 1:

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Atlas example 2:

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Structure as a whole:
Guide bar (GB) with lots of thin guides feeds great number of yarns by identical way; to describe it, lapping diagram or chain notation for one yarn completed with so called threading of GB. Threading may be for example:
Full (all the guides are threaded). Partial (missing yarns, for example 1:1). Patterned using yarns of different qualities (colours, linear density etc.). Example of patterned threading description: AAABBAAACAAA
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WaS-1 (all-knit structures)

May use all introduced types of lapping. Combinations of different lapping are possible, for example alternating of tricot and cord. Result strips in direction of courses. Draw lapping diagram in accordance with next chain notation: 0-1/1-0/0-1/1-0/0-1/1-0/2-3/1-0//

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Example pillar stitch + cord:

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WaS-2 (missing stitches)

Missing wales on some of the needles no yarn is fed (on example 2 needles are out of action). Two guide bars (GB) are necessary, threading of GB is shown under lapping diagram

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WaS-2 (missing stitches)

Hold loops on chosen needles no yarn is fed and is prevent from stitch knock-over (for example by selective pressing of the needles).

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WaS-3 (structures with tucks)

Main possibilities:
A) Lapping on not pressed bearded needle.

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Example of cut presser use:

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Example of cut presser use:

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WaS-3 (structures with tucks)

Main possibilities:
B) Fall-Plate (FP, only with latch needles):

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WaS-4 (structures with complementary yarns)

The most common possibilities:
Two yarns in loop, three etc.; for example two bar tricot, locknit (position of GB is important!). Only underlapping (inlay). Principle: GB swing over the needle and return in the same position, no yarn is fed into needle hook. Shog of the GB only under the needles. Long inlay reduces break elongation in courses direction. Short inlay reduces break elongation in wales direction.
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Example (pillar + sateen = Queenscord):

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Only Underlapping (inlay)

Example: pillar + inlay (only combination of both creat flat textile product!)
Only underlapping (OU) numerically: 0-0/2-2// Position of GB is done (impossible to change!).

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Example (pillar + only underlapping):

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Example (double tricot + only underlapping):

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Openwork structures, nets

Irregular connection of neighbouring wales = holes. Examples (a without complementary yarns, b, c use of only underlapping):

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Openwork structures - example

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Openwork structures example (net)

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Openwork structures - Marquisette

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Openwork structures - Marquisette

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Openwork structures - Tulle

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3.6 Warp double faced structures (double needle bar products)

With what new possibilities provides us second needle bar? How to use double layer knitting with connection in accordance with wishes?

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How machine with two needle bars works?

One group of guide bars laps alternatively on front and back needle bar, creates course of face F and then of reverse R stitches. Example:
2-1/1-0//1-2/2-3// It is not purl structure, couples of weales are one over another (face greater dots). Characteristics of example: alternating of symmetrical (face) and right-left stitches (reverse) wales.

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Example of double faced structure:

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Example of double faced structure:

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Usage of tubular fabric:

Numeric: Face pillar 1-0/0-0//0-1/1-1// Only underlapping 0-0/0-0//2-2/2-2// Reverse pillar 1-1/1-0//0-0/0-1// Double pillar 0-1/1-0// or 1-2/1-0//.

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Knitting of double plush:

1 GB laps on front needle bar 2 GB laps on back needle bar 3 GB laps on both needle bars After separation (cut-of) of two layers we shall get two plush fabrics.

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Example of plush:

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Example of plush:

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Example of plush (goffered):

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Inner part of gloves:

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Net (stockings):

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Patterning of warp knitted fabrics

Can be used the same principles as at weft knitting? Yes, but with difficulties (individual control of needles movement). What is more easy? First of all by:
Threading of yarns (pattern corresponds with lapping). Pattern guide bars. Jacquard guide bars.
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Patterning by threading of yarns

Yarns of changeable qualities (colour, diameter) creates longitudinal effects in dependence on used lapping. Threading of each GB is fixed. For different yarns combination is necessary to have different FB. How to create next colour effects?

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Patterning by threading of yarns Examples (how to get these effects?):

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Pattern guide bars:

Characteristics:
Greater number (even more than 50), more yarns lapped in different ways. Low number of patterning yarns and so as well of guides another bar construction (individual guides). Structure: usually simple all-area base + added patterning yarns.
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Pattern guide bars:

Often used technic of designing: filling-in some fabric areas by right and left yarn lapping. Possibility A:
Only underlapping.

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Pattern guide bars - example:

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Filling-in squares in marquisette (face, back):

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Pattern guide bars example (curtain):

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Pattern guide bars example (lace):

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Pattern guide bars example (lace):

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Pattern guide bars:

Possibility B:
Using of fall plate (open, closed lapping). Appearance of so called technical reverse side is shown.

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Patterning by fall plate:

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Pattern guide bars:

Possibility C:
Interlooping by side stitches

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Interlooping by side stitches - example:

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Designing by holes (openwork structure):

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Jacquard guide bar:

Individually side-bent guides (mechanically, piezo-electrically).

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Curtain patterned by jacquard:

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Mysterious design (created by finishing discharge):

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3.7 Properties of knitted fabrics

Which properties of knitted fabric are typical, how to explain and measure them? How to classify these properties? How differs woven and knitted fabrics properties?

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3.71 Geometry of knitted fabrics

Main parameters:
length of the yarn in structural elements l with yarn diameter d as independent (input) parameters and Spacing of wales w and courses c and thickness of fabric t as dependent (output) parameters. Reciprocal value of spacing is density of wales and courses (analogy to woven fabric sett).

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Main geometrical parameters

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Knitted stitch model:

Assumptions:
Constant d of yarn. Upper and lower parts -circle with common horizontal axes. Leg - abscissa.

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From assumptions:

D!
T ! 2

d

l ! T D  2c !

 T d  2c

Dimensionless coefficients: l Packing density or covering for d example

d could be replaced by known Ttex: Another coefficients (Munden):

Ttex

!
s

l l , , c c
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Notes:
The models could be as well mechanical (vector, scalar). Often unpleasant are slant stitches due to:
Direction of knitting and plastic yarn deformation. Yarn torsion (due to twist, mainly in single faced fabrics). Slant of fabric take-down. Helical courses in tubular fabric (many knitting systems). Some structures (stitches transfer, bed racking), in this case positive effect.
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Slant stitches (by direction of knitting):

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Slant stitches (by torsion moment in yarn):

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Slant stitches (by torsion moment in yarn):

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3.72 Mechanical properties of knitted fabrics

There are many of them. We shall mention:
Area mass. Deformational properties such as strenght, break elongation, shape stability Snagging, curling, unravelling. Water, air, heat transfer.

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Area mass:
Impact on: comfort, yarn consumption Is dependant on:
yarn linear density Ttex, length of the yarn in 1 m2 Lm2 or in structural unit ls; if using basic units of SI [m, kg it means Mtex] system we neednt any conversion, density of the wales and courses Dw, Dc

V s ! Lm2 T[Mtex] ! Dw Dc ls T[Mtex]

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Breaking force and elongation, curve of deformation:

Sample: narrow in central part and folded to reduce the problem of lateral contraction (prevents break in jaws).

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Breaking force and elongation, curve of deformation:

Means of fabric elongation:
Change of yarn axes shape (geometry). Mutual yarn slip in the contact places. Yarn diameter deformation. Yarn elongation.

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Strength (breaking force) Ff:

It may be counted using for example relation:

Ff ! Dx Fy K str K su
Where
D is fabric density (in relevant direction), Fy is strength of used yarn, Kstr is coefficient of structure (number of yarns bearing the stress in one wale or course). Ksu is coefficient of yarn strength utilisation in fabric (usually is smaller then 1).
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Experiments, shape stability:

The load could be uni- or biaxial or combination of these possibilities. From another point of view:
One half of cycle of deformation (till break). All of cycle of deformation (load + relaxation). More or many cycles (fatigue).

Shape stability often is low (tendency to dimensional change).

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Snagging, curling, unravelling

Snagging often worse then in woven fabrics (longer free part of yarns, greater change of structure). Curling the source (elastic yarn bend) is known. What energy is used? Unravelling separating of the yarn from fabric or splitting of the wales. Elastic yarn bend leads to increase of this unpleasant ability.
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Water, air, heat transfer

Transfer of air and water (liquid, fluid) and heat is connected could not be separated. What is the resource of thermal insulation? How to insure thermal insulation in wind? How to cool body on great physical load? Is it possible for textile product to let fluid water go through and simultaneously to protect liquid water transfer? (answer yourself)
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3.8 Special structures

A. Fast welts (sc = staring course)
a) In single faced fabric a group of 2x2 identical stitches could be split. b) Fast welt the first or second course is knitted 1:1. c) Tubular welt reduces curling. d) Double faced 1x1 fabric creates fast welt, rib fabric 2x2 uses bed racking.

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Fast welts examples:

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B. Separating courses systems types:

From rib 1x1 (old fabric) to rib 1x1 (new fabric) a, b) with one separating course, c) with two separating courses after tubular fabric.

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B. Separating courses systems

Type 1x1 2x2 double casting-off (in 2x2 structure each third wale is missing on both face and reverse side).

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C. Structures of shaped fabric

Widening: increasing of then number of selvedge wales. Narrowing: Transfer of selvedge stitches inside the fabric + taking free needles out of action. A group of stitches could be transferred (example c)