FUSING EQUIPMENTS

FUSING MACHINES AND TECHNOLOGY

SUBMITTED BY:AMIT KUMAR SANDEEP KUMAR SINGH MANISH KUMAR SINGH RISHIKESH KUMAR

FUSING TECHNOLOGY
Fusing is a process in which the interlining is bonded to the outer fabric by means of a thermoplastic resin. It is a degree with which the fabrics yarns and fibres melt and weld together. Attachment of interlinings is used to support, reinforce and control areas of garments such as collars, cuffs, waistbands, hems, facings and the fronts of jackets and coats. They are either sewn into the garments or they may be attached by means of fusing. Interlinings are available as woven , nonwoven or fusible. The term fusible fabric refers to fabrics specially constructed for a fusing process such as fusible interlinings.

FUSING PROCESS
The fusible interlining consists of a base fabric which carries on its surface a thermoplastic adhesive resin, usually in the form of small dots, which melts when heated to a specific temperature. On application of heat and pressure the resin, laid onto the garment part, will flow into the fabric of the garment thus attaching the interlining permanently. A resin is any natural or man-made organic compound, usually transparent or translucent , which is not soluble in water. Curing is the term used for heating the resin to its polymerized state. Polyamide, Polyethylene, polyvinyl acetate, polyvinyl chloride and cellulose acetate are some of the resins used to make fusible fabrics.

ADVANTAGES OF FUSING PROCESS

Provide shape to the part Support to the part Stabilization Reinforcement Hand Improved performance for garments Produces and retains desired aesthetic requirements

HOW TO CHOOSE AN INTERLINING

Interlinings are available in a wide range of weights from 0.4 to 4.0 ounces per square yard. Heavier interlinings provide more support for heavier, more structured garments such as coats and suits. Lighter-weight interlinings offer resiliency and some support, but they may provide a softer hand.

FUSIBLE INTERLININGS
Fusible interlinings are fabrications coated with some form of resin or adhesive that serves as a bonding agent to hold the interlining to the shell fabric. Substrates may be wovens knits fibre webs Fusible interlinings must be fused to shell fabric prior to the construction. Fused garments parts have more body, do not ravel, and are easy to handle in sewing.

TYPES OF INTERLINGS
Woven Fibre webs Knitted Fusible

WOVEN
Usually plain weave and may be produced from almost any type of fiber. This fabrication is most expensive and subject to raveling and shrinkage.

When proper interlining are not used stretching, distortion, and poor drapeability of garment pieces takes place. Woven interlinings used in collars and front shirt bands may be cut on the bias to provide good flexibility and shaping as the garment component rolls and bends.

KNITTED
Knit fabrics used for interlinings are primarily warp knit tricots, rachels, and weft insertion rachels. They are used for strength in relation to weight, low bulk, and smooth hand. It provides resiliency in the width, stability and control in the length, flexibility, and good drapeability with a soft hand. This type of knit interlining is commonly used with wool and woolblend because of their loft, soft hand and resiliency. They are also used with knit fabrics because of flexibility.

NON WOVEN
These are the most widely used fabrication for interlining because of: low cost Versatility ease of engineering specific characteristics into interlinings. These may have less strength but do not ravel while handling Fiber webs are frequently made from light weight, strong, synthetic fibers such as nylon and polyester.

FUSING TECHNIQUE
Factors determining the properties of the fused laminate: 1. 2. 3. 4. Base fabric Outer fabric Type of fusible resin Pattern of application of resin to the base cloth

FUSING EQUIPMENTS
The equipments used for fusing can be divided into:Specialized fusing presses Hand irons Steam presses

FLAT BED FUSING PRESS

Two horizontal metal platens/bucks between which the fabric and interlining laminate are sandwiched. The bottom platen has a resilient cover (silicone rubber/felt pad).  Heat is provided by electric elements in top platen only.  The bottom buck is static and the top buck is lowered to fuse the assembly whilst under pressure, and then raised after cooling. Pressure is applied by closing the platens together mechanically, hydraulically or pneumatically. Fusing time is controlled by automatic timer in the range of 8-12 seconds. The operator places the garment part face down to the lower platen, places the interlining resin on top of it and closes the press. Most of these machines are fitted with timers and program controls and can achieve high levels of fusing qualities.

ADVANTAGES OF FLATBED FUSING PRESS

simple version,  small size and  relatively low cost allow their use by small clothing

manufacturer.
Fabric shrinkage is reduced since the fabric is held

under pressure throughout the fusing cycle.

CONTINUOUS FUSING MACHINE

Working principle

The system operates by passing the garment part with its interlining placed on it, past a heat source and either simultaneously or subsequently applying pressure. They can be operated without stopping for the loading and unloading of the assemblies. The conveyer belt transports the assemblies through all the processes and the belt speed is adjustable according to the time cycle required.

The conveyer belt carry the components past heating plates or heating chamber, nip rollers apply pressure to the assembly after heating . The pressure time is very small as compared to the flat bed press and needs to be precisely controlled and the rollers should be parallel and free of wear to give even and uniform pressure. The rubber covering of rollers is available in a range of hardness. Usually shirt top collar fusing requires hardest rollers and outerwear fabrics require softer rollers.

CONTINUOUS FUSING MACHINE

CONTINUOUS FUSING PRESS

The above continuous type fusing machine is applicable in private, middle and small garment manufacturers. The key features are:y 1. Use seamless belt and with joint belt. y 2.Even temperature in heated area ,has upper and lower temperature controller, the temperature could be adjusted from 0 to 220 degree Celsius. It could press liner single face or double face. y 3.Electric temperature controller and direct sensor could control tiny difference in temperature. y 4.Stop automatically when adjust the temperature, and a hand instruction for power cut. y 5.Adopting the new rotating stripping mechanism, which with the removal lever to assure the paste things could fall off smoothly.

CURVE TYPE 600 COOLING FUSING MACHINE

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Pressure Mpa: 0-0.4 Belt speed m/min:0-5(adjustable) Temperature of heater:Normal-200 Fusing width mm:600 Air Pressure;4-5 bar Weight Kg:450 Dimensions mm:2850*1500*1200

Besides the highlights of general fusing machine(linear continuous fusing machine),this machine embodies more rationalization and humanization in its functional design.This machine has unique cooling system,which enable the temperature of the cloth when after the high temperature fusing come back to normal atmosphere temperature,and it will not leave any trace even the operator touches the cloth.Curve type operation and the same feed inlet and outlet provides more convenience as well as reduce more manpower.

HAND IRON
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Interlinings which can be fused at relatively low temperatures ,low pressure ,and in relatively short time are suitable for fusing by hand iron. Iron is used merely to position an interlining part or tape temporarily ,to be followed by pressing on a steam press or specialized press.

HAND IRONS

STEAM PRESS
y y

y y

Temperature at the glue line is achieved by steam from the head of the press. Pressure is provided mechanically or pneumatically by closing the press head on the buck. The resins which fuse the best are polyvinyl acetate,and lower melting range of polyamides. Used in the positioning and initial attaching of fusible shoulder pads in men s jackets

SHOULDER PADS FUSING PRESS

Product Description Used for fusing shoulder pads. One lower and 2 upper bucks enable front and back fusing for each shoulder.

METHODS OF FUSING
Configurations possible both in terms of the presentation of the parts to the fusing press, and in the parts included in the garment. The main variations are : Sandwich fusing : Carried out on a horizontal continuous press where heat is applied from above and below. Two pairs of components forming two laminates are fused together with the two outer fabrics on the outside of the sandwich and the two interlinings on the inside. With the correct temperature settings the glue line temperature may be achieved in both laminates but strike back and all the layers to adhere together is considerable

Reverse fusing : The outer fabric lies on the top of the fusible, sometimes used for shirt or blouse collars. On flat bed presses with the elements on the top platen, temperature adjustments are necessary. Double fusing : This is the fusing of two sorts of interlinings to the outer fabric in one operation used in shirt collars and men s jacket fronts.

BIBLIOGRAPHY
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The technology of clothing manufacturing by Harold Carr and Barbara Lathman. www.anysew.com

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