1Lx1lLL llnlSPlnC

Any operaLlon (oLher Lhan preparaLlon and colorlng) LhaL

lmproves Lhe appearance and/or usefulness of fabrlc afLer lL
leaves Lhe loom or knlLLlng machlne
llnlshlng ls Lhe flnal serles of operaLlons LhaL produces
flnlshed LexLlle fabrlc from grey goods
1he word flnlsh means all Lhe dlfferenL LreaLmenLs applled
Lo a fabrlc Lo change such Lhlngs as lLs
Appearance
leel or booJ
Jear ablllLy or care requlremenLs
AesLheLlc
llnlshes
ClasslflcaLlon of llnlshes
1exLlle llnlshes are classlfled ln several ways
Accord|ng to funct|on
luncLlonal
llnlshes
AesLheLlc llnlshes
AesLheLlc llnlshes modlfy Lhe appearance and /or hand or
drape of Lhe fabrlcs
lulllng
MercerlzaLlon
napplng And Suedlng
llsse
Shearlng
SofLenlng
SLlffenlng
luncLlonal llnlshes
luncLlonal llnlshes lmprove Lhe performance properLles of
Lhe fabrlc llke durablllLy sLrengLh eLc
AnLlmlcroblal/AnLlsepLlc
AnLlsLaLlc
Crease reslsLanL
uurable ress
llame 8eslsLanL
MoLhproof
Shrlnkage ConLrol
Soll 8elease
JaLer roof/8epellanL
Accord|ng to the qua||ty
1emporary
ermanenL
Seml
ermanenL
1emporary llnlshes
A flnlsh whlch ls noL sLable and goes off afLer Lhe flrsL wash ls
known as Lemporary flnlsh and Lhese flnlshes dlsappears
durlng subsequenL washlng and usage
Calenderlng
Lmbosslng
SLarchlng
SofLenlng
ermanenL llnlshes
lf Lhe flnlshlng effecL ln Lhe fabrlc does noL dlsappear and
remalns unaffecLed Lhrough all Lhe condlLlons of wear and
washlng LreaLmenLs Lhen Lhe flnlsh ls sald Lo be permanenL
flnlsh
Sanforlslng
8esln llnlsh
JaLer roof
llame roof
Seml permanenL llnlshes
A llnlshlng on Lhe fabrlc ls sald Lo be seml permanenL flnlsh lf
lL ls sLable Lo more Lhan 3 Lo 10 washes and noL afLerwards
Schrelner Calenderlng
8uckram llnlsh
Accordlng Lo Lype of machlnery
Chemlcal
llnlshes
Mechanlcal
llnlshes
Chemlcal llnlshes
Chemlcal flnlshes are usually applled Lo fabrlc by paddlng
followed by curlng and drylng 1hese are also called as weL
llnlshes
SLlff and LransparenL
llame 8eLardanL
Soll 8elease
JaLer roof
Crease 8eslsLance
SofLenlng
Mechanlcal flnlshes
Mechanlcal llnlshes usually lnvolved speclflc physlcal
LreaLmenL Lo a fabrlc surface Lo cause a change ln fabrlc
appearance 1hls ls also known as dry flnlsh
Calenderlng
8alslng
Sanforlslng
Mllllng
8ouLlne flnlshes
Speclal flnlshes
Calenderlng
Calenderlng may be deflned as Lhe modlflcaLlon of Lhe surface
of a fabrlc by Lhe acLlon of heaL and pressure
1he flnlsh ls obLalned by passlng Lhe fabrlc beLween heaLed
roLaLlng rollers when boLh speed of roLaLlon and pressure
applled are varlable
1he surface of rollers can be elLher smooLh or engraved Lo
provlde Lhe approprlaLe flnlsh Lo fabrlc
1he rollers may be made of varlous maLerlal from hardened
sLeel Lo elasLlc LhermoplasLlc
b[ecLs of Calenderlng
1o lmprove Lhe fabrlc handle and Lo lmparL a smooLh sllky
Louch Lo Lhe fabrlc
1o compress Lhe fabrlc and reduce lLs Lhlckness
1o reduce Lhe alr permeablllLy by closlng Lhe Lhreads
1o lncrease Lhe lusLer
1o reduce Lhe yarn sllppage
1o lncrease Lhe opaclLy of Lhe fabrlc
Surface paLLernlng by embosslng
1ypes of Calenderlng
Swlsslng or normal gloss or slmple calenderlng
ChlnLz or glazlng or frlcLlon Calenderlng
Clre Calenderlng
Lmbossed Calenderlng
Molre Calenderlng
Schrenler Calenderlng
Calenderlng machlnes
Types of
calendering
|n|shes enhanc|ng appearance
< 1reaLmenLs enhanclng appearance lnclude such processes as
< napplng and shearlng
< brushlng
< slngelng
< beeLllng
< decaLlng
< LenLerlng
< calenderlng or presslng
< molrelng
< embosslng
< creplng
< glazlng
< pollshlng and
< opLlcal brlghLenlng
-app|ng and shear|ng
napplng ls a process LhaL may be applled Lo woollens coLLons
spun sllks and spun rayons lncludlng boLh woven and knlLLed
Lypes Lo ralse a velveLy sofL surface
1he process lnvolves passlng Lhe fabrlc over revolvlng
cyllnders covered wlLh flne wlres LhaL llfL Lhe shorL loose
flbres usually from Lhe wefL yarns Lo Lhe surface formlng a
nap 1he process whlch lncreases warmLh ls frequenLly
applled Lo woollens and worsLeds and also Lo blankeLs
Shearlng cuLs Lhe ralsed nap Lo a unlform helghL and ls
used for Lhe same purpose on plle fabrlcs
Shearlng machlnes operaLe much llke roLary lawn mowers
and Lhe amounL of shearlng depends upon Lhe deslred helghL
of Lhe nap or plle wlLh such fabrlcs as gabardlne recelvlng
very close shearlng
Shearlng may also be applled Lo creaLe sLrlpes and oLher
paLLerns by varylng surface helghL
rush|ng
1hls process applled Lo a wlde varleLy of fabrlcs ls usually
accompllshed by brlsLlecovered rollers
1he process ls used Lo remove loose Lhreads and shorL flbre
ends from smooLhsurfaced fabrlcs and ls also used Lo ralse a
nap on knlLs and woven fabrlcs
8rushlng ls frequenLly applled Lo fabrlcs afLer shearlng
removlng Lhe cuL flbres LhaL have fallen lnLo Lhe nap
|nge|ng
Also called gasslng slngelng ls a process applled Lo boLh
yarns and fabrlcs Lo produce an even surface by burnlng off
pro[ecLlng flbres yarn ends and fuzz
1hls ls accompllshed by passlng Lhe flbre or yarn over a gas
flame or heaLed copper plaLes aL a speed sufflclenL Lo burn
away Lhe proLrudlng maLerlal wlLhouL scorchlng or burnlng
Lhe yarn or fabrlc
Slngelng ls usually followed by passlng Lhe LreaLed maLerlal
over a weL surface Lo assure LhaL any smolderlng ls halLed
Slngelng
machlnes
eet||ng
8eeLllng ls a process applled Lo llnen fabrlcs and Lo coLLon
fabrlcs made Lo resemble llnen Lo produce a hard flaL surface
wlLh hlgh lusLre and also Lo make LexLure less porous
ln Lhls process Lhe fabrlc dampened and wound around an
lron cyllnder ls passed Lhrough a machlne ln whlch lL ls
pounded wlLh heavy wooden malleLs
<ecat|ng
< uecaLlng ls a process applled Lo woollens and worsLeds man
made and blended flbre fabrlcs and varlous Lypes of knlLs
< lL lnvolves Lhe appllcaLlon of heaL and pressure Lo seL or
develop lusLre and sofLer hand and Lo even Lhe seL and graln
of cerLaln fabrlcs Jhen applled Lo double knlLs lL lmparLs crlsp
hand and reduces shrlnkage
< ln weL decaLlng whlch glves a subLle lusLre or bloom fabrlc
under Lenslon ls sLeamed by passlng lL over perforaLed
cyllnders
@enter|ng
1hese are flnal processes applled Lo seL Lhe warp and wefL of woven
fabrlcs aL rlghL angles Lo each oLher and Lo sLreLch and seL Lhe fabrlc Lo lLs
flnal dlmenslons
1enLerlng sLreLches wldLh under Lenslon by Lhe use of a LenLer frame
conslsLlng of chalns flLLed wlLh plns or cllps Lo hold Lhe selvages of Lhe
fabrlc and Lravelllng on Lracks
As Lhe fabrlc passes Lhrough Lhe heaLed chamber creases and wrlnkles are
removed Lhe weave ls sLralghLened and Lhe fabrlc ls drled Lo lLs flnal slze
Jhen Lhe process ls applled Lo weL wools lL ls called crabblng
1enLerlng / sLenLerlng
machlnes
< rep|ng
< A crepe effecL may be achleved by flnlshlng ln one meLhod whlch ls
noL permanenL Lhe cloLh ls passed ln Lhe presence of sLeam
beLween hoL rollers fllled wlLh lndenLaLlons produclng waved and
puckered areas
< ln Lhe more permanenL causLlc soda meLhod a causLlc soda pasLe ls
rolled onLo Lhe fabrlc ln a paLLerned form or a reslsL pasLe may be
applled Lo areas Lo remaln unpuckered and Lhe enLlre fabrlc Lhen
lmmersed ln causLlc soda
< 1he LreaLed areas shrlnk and Lhe unLreaLed areas pucker lf Lhe
paLLern ls applled ln Lhe form of sLrlpes Lhe effecL ls called pllsse an
allover deslgn produces bllsLer crepe
Crepe
effecL
f
-app|ng
Dslng wlrecovered rolls Lo dlg ouL lndlvldual flber ends
Lo Lhe surface
ued|ng
Dslng abraslvecovered rolls (sandpaper emery cloLh eLc)
Lo produce shorLer plle surface does cause an apparenL shade
change
Speclal Lype of ralsed surface fabrlc ls corduroy
Suedlng sandlng creaLes sofLer hand of fabrlc
suede
f
Dse of roLary blade(s) Lo Lrlm ralsed surfaces (Surface plle or
nap) Lo a unlform helghL
Speclal Lypes of blades and conveyer belLs can produce
paLLern effecLs on Lhe surface
1hls reduces Lhe Lendency of Lhe fabrlc surface Lo maL and
also reduces Lhe pllllng Lendency
lor plle fabrlcs napped fabrlcs
8alsed Surface llnlshes add LexLure
rr Shearlng for plle fabrlcs surface plle ls cuL Lo conLrol Lhe paLLern and
appearance
8rushlng
rr Lmbossed fabrlcs
rr llsse' puckered surfaces creaLed by prlnLlng fabrlc wlLh sodlum
hydroxlde ln sLrlpes or deslgns
rr llocklng
rr Clued on shorL flbers Lo creaLe fuzzy surface
rr napplng/brushlng flber ends ralsed by mechanlcal brushlng
rr lulled wool fabrlcs are shrunk ln a conLrolled manner
rr 8eeLled
rr Suedlng sandlng creaLes sofLer hand of fabrlc Lmery paper or
some oLher mlld abraslon Lo surface of fabrlc
MercerlsaLlon
,ercer|sat|on ls a LreaLmenL for coLLon fabrlc and Lhread LhaL glves fabrlc
a lusLrous appearance 1he process ls applled Lo maLerlals llke coLLon or
hemp
1he process was devlsed ln 1844 by !ohn Mercer of CreaL Parwood
Lancashlre Lngland who LreaLed coLLon flbres wlLh sodlum hydroxlde
MercerlsaLlon alLers Lhe chemlcal sLrucLure of Lhe coLLon flbre 1he
sLrucLure of Lhe flbre changes from alphacellulose Lo beLacellulose
Mercerlslng resulLs ln Lhe swelllng of Lhe cell wall of Lhe coLLon flbre @h|s
causes |ncreases |n the surface area and ref|ectance and g|ves the f|ber a
softer fee|
1he LreaLmenL of celluloslc fabrlc wlLh causLlc Lo |mprove dyeab|||ty and
hand|e
1he LreaLmenL of celluloslc LexLlles ln yam or fabrlc form wlLh a
concenLraLed soluLlon of causLlc alkall whereby Lhe flbres are swollen the
strength and dye aff|n|ty of the mater|a|s are |ncreased and the hand|e
|s mod|f|ed
A LreaLmenL of yarns or fabrlcs wlLh causLlc alkall ln whlch flbres are
swollen and sLreLched Lo |ncrease |ustre |n the f|n|shed product
archmenLlzlng
1reaLmenL of coLLon fabrlcs
wlLh sulfurlc acld
1he fabrlc ls LransparenL
sheer sLlff
8urnouL effecLs creaLed by
dlssolvlng parL of Lhe flbers
ln a blend fabrlc leavlng Lhe
second flber ln place
luncLlonal llnlshes
All flnlshes LhaL change a fabrlcs properLles are applled chemlcally
roperLychanglng funcLlonal flnlshes provlde Lhe added quallLles deslred
for a parLlcular fabrlc or Lhey may be used Lo change an undeslrable
properLy Lo a more deslrable one
Many such flnlshes add more Lhan one properLy Lo a fabrlc 1he label may
lndlcaLe whlch flnlshes have been applled Lo Lhe fabrlc
Lxamples of funcLlonal flnlshes LhaL change Lhe properLles of fabrlc
lnclude
rease kes|stant |n|shes are applled Lo cellulose flbres (coLLon llnen
and rayon) LhaL wrlnkle easlly letmooeot ltess fabrlcs have crease
reslsLanL flnlshes LhaL reslsL wrlnkllng and also help Lo malnLaln creases
and pleaLs LhroughouL wearlng and cleanlng
tab|||zat|on |n|shes
oofotlzeJ lndlcaLes LhaL a fabrlc has been LreaLed so LhaL lL wlll shrlnk or
sLreLch noL more Lhan 1 or 2 reshrunk fabrlcs have been preshrunk Lo a
cerLaln exLenL buL sLlll may shrlnk conslderably
!illing
< Ant|p||||ng f|n|shes
< llllng ls an unpleasanL phenomenon assoclaLed wlLh spun
yarn fabrlcs especlally when Lhey conLaln synLheLlcs
< SynLheLlc flbers are more readlly broughL Lo Lhe surface of
fabrlc due Lo Lhelr smooLh surface and clrcular cross secLlon
and due Lo Lhelr hlgher Lenslle sLrengLh and abraslon
reslsLance Lhe pllls formed Lake a long Llme Lo be abraded by
wear
< JlLh knlL fabrlc Lwo more problems occur vlz plcklng
where Lhe abraslon lndlvldual flbers work Lhemselves ouL of
yarn loops onLo Lhe surface when garmenL caLches a polnLed
or rough ob[ecL
9ermanent Ant|stat|c effects
AnLlsLaLlc flnlsh for synLheLlc LexLlles Lo avold sLaLlc charge bulld up
glve a naLural feel
AnLlsLaLlc effecLlve chemlcals are largely chemlcally lnerL and
requlre 1hermosol or heaL LreaLmenL for flxlng on polyesLer goods
ln general 1hermsolable anLlsLaLlc agenLs also have a good soll
release acLlon whlch ls as permanenL as Lhe anLlsLaLlc effecL
AnLlsLaLlc flnlshes may also be of polyamlde Lype belng curable aL
moderaLe LemperaLures
-on||p f|n|shes
SynLheLlc warp and wefL Lhreads ln loosely woven fabrlcs are
parLlcularly prone Lo sllp because of Lhelr surface smooLhness when
Lhe sLrucLure of fabrlc ls dlsLurbed and appearance ls no loner
aLLracLlve
1o avold Lhls aLLempLs are made Lo glve Lhe fllamenLs a rougher
surface
Slllcagel dlsperslons or slllclc acld colloldal soluLlons are qulLe
useful and Lhey are used wlLh advanLage ln comblnaLlon wlLh laLex
polymer or acrylaLes dlsperslons Lo geL more permanenL effecL
along wlLh slmulLaneous lmprovemenL ln reslsLance Lo pllllng or
snagglng
1hese polymer flnlshes are also capable of lmparLlng a sofL and
smooLh handle Lo synLheLlc fabrlc wlLhouL lmparLlng waLer
repellency
< |re kes|stant f|n|shes
< JlLh synLheLlc flber whlch melL on lgnlLlng by a flame Lhe
molLen moss ls lLself qulLe dangerous and a flre reslsLanL
LreaLmenL ls deslrable for cerLaln end uses
< olyesLer fabrlcs can be made flame reslsLanL by LreaLmenL
wlLh an aqueous emulslon of xylene soluble 23
dlbromopropyl phosphaLe ln a padcure sequence
< A semlpermanenL effecL can be produced by LreaLlng wlLh a
mlxLure of ammonlum bromlde and bromlnaLed phosphorlc
acld esLers
Ant|m|crob|a| f|n|shes
JlLh Lhe lncreaslng use synLheLlc flbers for carpeLs and oLher
maLerlals ln publlc places anLlmlcroblal flnlshes have assumed
lmporLance
AnLl mlcroblal flnlsh Lcofrlendly anLl mlcroblal flnlshlng agenL for
coLLon fabrlcs CarmenLsDseful for ellmlnaLlng bacLerlal growLh
due Lo sweaL
roducLs whlch are commonly applled are bromlnaLed phenols
quaLernary ammonlum compounds organosllver and Lln
compounds whlch can be applled as soluLlons or dlsperslons
,othproof|ng |n|shes proLecL proLelnconLalnlng flbres such as
wool from belng aLLacked by moLhs carpeL beeLles and oLher
lnsecLs
Jaterproof |n|shes Aallows no waLer Lo peneLraLe buL Lend
Lo be uncomforLable because Lhey Lrap molsLure nexL Lo Lhe
body 8ecenLly fabrlcs have been developed LhaL are
waLerproof yeL are also breaLhable (eg @O 8loo ll
and ulctyloo)
Jaterkepe||ent |n|shes JaLerrepellenL flnlshes reslsL
weLLlng lf Lhe fabrlc becomes very weL waLer wlll evenLually
pass Lhrough Applled Lo fabrlcs found ln ralncoaLs all
weaLher coaLs haLs capes umbrellas and shower curLalns
(eg tovooeete noyJotltof ylmet cotcbqotJ and 2epel)
ta|n and o|| kes|stant |n|shes prevenL soll and sLalns from
belng aLLracLed Lo fabrlcs
Such flnlshes may be reslsLanL Lo ollbourne or waLerbourne
soll and sLalns or boLh
SLaln and soll reslsLanL flnlshes can be applled Lo fabrlcs used
ln cloLhlng and furnlLure cotcbqotJ ls a sLaln and soll
reslsLanL flnlsh commonly applled Lo carpeL and furnlLure
o|| ke|ease |n|shes 1hese flnlshes aLLracL waLer Lo Lhe
surface of flbres durlng cleanlng and help remove soll
|ameketardant |n|shes ln Canada laws requlre LhaL
chlldrens sleepwear and cerLaln household furnlshlngs meeL
cerLaln sLandards for flammablllLy reslsLance
Absorbent |n|shes lncrease flbres molsLure holdlng power
Such flnlshes have been applled Lo Lowels cloLh dlapers
underwear sporLs shlrLs and oLher lLems where molsLure
absorpLlon ls lmporLanL
llame 8eslsLanL llnlshes
llame 8eslsLanL Lhe only performance requlred by law 8egulaLes Lhe
flammablllLy of all people's cloLhlng
1hls removed exLremely hazardous maLerlals such as Lhlngs LhaL wlll flash
over qulckly wlLh only a small spark
CloLhlng wlll sLlll burn however Lhe amounL of flame and combusLlon ls
conLrolled
llammablllLy regulaLlons cover chlldren's sleepwear carpeLs
maLLressesupholsLered furnlLure
Chlldren's sleepwear sLandard ls a verLlcal flammablllLy LesL uses a gas
flame Lo lgnlLe Lhe lower edge of Lhe fabrlc
Are applled Lo combusLlble fabrlcs used ln chlldrens sleepwear carpeLs
and curLalns and prevenL hlghly flammable LexLlles from bursLlng lnLo
flame
lragrance flnlsh
uone by Mlcro encapsulaLed slllcone based aroma flnlshlng agenL
,|croencapsu|ated sk|n mo|stur|zers v|tam|ns and prov|tam|ns are applled
ln garmenLs and known as cosmeLoLexLlles deslgned for wear ln conLacL wlLh
skln 1hese are clalmed Lo promoLe a younger look counLeracLlng Lhe effecLs
of skln agelng eg as a resulL of exposure Lo DIradlaLlon 1here are also
mlcroencapsulaLed preparaLlons for skln coollng
nome @ext||es
ln oLher areas household LexLlles such as curLalns sofas cushlons sheeLs as
well as apparel lLems such as gloves socks and Lles may also be LreaLed wlLh
mlcroencapsulaLed fragrance and deodorlzlng flnlshes 1he carpets can be
flnlshed wlLh fragrances of dlfferenL klnds and can be wldely used ln home
LexLlles as well as auLomoLlve LexLlles
port Jears
As Lhe 'second skln' of Lhe human body all Lypes of LexLlle are excellenL
medla for Lransferrlng fragrance compounds and are essenLlal Lo people
ln sporL accordlng Lo Lhelr preference for Lhem 1he Lype of Lhe fragrance
necessary for sporLs wear may be orange |emon whlch wlll keep Lhem
energlzed on Lhe ground for longer perlod
Appare|
1he scenLs of lavender rose clLrus or vanllla were encapsulaLed lnLo
fabrlcs whlch proved a good way Lo meeL lmporLanL psychologlcal and
emoLlonal needs as well as Lhose of a purely physlcal and sensorlal
naLure 1hus Lhe fabrlcs flnlshed wlLh above fragrances can be used ln
apparels lelsure wear dally wears parLy wears eLc
9each |n|sh Sub[ecLlng Lhe fabrlc (elLher coLLon or lLs synLheLlc
blends) Lo emery wheels makes Lhe surface velveL llke 1hls ls a speclal
flnlsh mosLly used ln garmenLs
|n|shes for ynthet|c f|bers
neat ett|ng PeaL seLLlng of synLheLlc fabrlcs ellmlnaLes Lhe
lnLernal Lenslons wlLhln Lhe flber generaLed durlng manufacLure
and Lhe new sLaLe can be flxed by rapld coollng
1hls heaL seLLlng flxes Lhe fabrlcs ln Lhe relaxed sLaLe and Lhus
avolds subsequenL shrlnkage or creaslng of fabrlc reseLLlng of
goods make lL posslble Lo use hlgher LemperaLure for seLLlng
wlLhouL conslderlng Lhe subllmaLlon properLles of dyes and also has
a favorable effecL on dyelng behavlor and runnlng properLles of
goods
n Lhe oLher hand posL seLLlng can be comblned wlLh some oLher
operaLlons such as Lhermosol dyelng or opLlcal brlghLenlng of
polyesLer posL seLLlng as a flnal flnlsh ls useful Lo geL a hlgh
dlmenslonal sLablllLy along wlLh deslred handle
nzymat|c f|n|shes
|opo||sh|ng 1hls ls a process Lo remove Lhe proLrudlng
flbers of a fabrlc Lhrough Lhe acLlon an enzyme 1hls enzyme
selecLlvely acLs on Lhe proLrudlng flbers and cease Lo work
afLer flnlshlng Lhe work by a slmple ralse ln LemperaLure of
Lhe LreaLmenL baLh
Shrlnkage ConLrol llnlshes
Some shrlnkage expecLed ln Lhe
flrsL wash afLer weavlng Lhe
Lenslons creaLed by belng held
on Lhe loom are relaxed
anfor|zed compress|ve
shr|nkage
CoLLons are shrunk by
compresslng fabrlc beLween
Lwo blankeLs overfed over
heaLed cyllnders
anforset uses llquld ammonla
Lo make Lhe compresslve
shrlnkage more permanenL
neat sett|ng for 1hermoplasLlcs
heaL flbers above Lhelr glass
LranslLlon LemperaLure creaLed a
permanenL shape
hr|nkage ontro| for Joo|
8emove Lhe scales from Lhe surface
of Lhe flber
ls a halogenaLlon LreaLmenL LhaL ls
fabrlc ls LreaLed wlLh chlorlne
r coaL Lhe scales wlLh a polymer
CoaLlng ls usually nylon
Jrlnkle 8eslsLanL llnlshes
Jrlnkle recovery ls dependenL on Lhe presence of cross llnks LhaL hold
ad[acenL molecules LogeLher and pull Lhem back lnLo shape when Lhey are
dlsLorLed
Lher problems of u flnlshes sLlffness weakness odor solllng and
afflnlLy for soll less molsLure absorbenL