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Dyes- component in textile industry

Dyes
Dye - colored substance that has an affinity to the substrate to which it is being applied. Dye has two components-Chromophore,Auxochrome

Classification of Dyes
No single class of dye can dye all fibres.
A specific class of dye can only be applied to a

given type of textile fibre.

Dye for Cellulosic Fibers:

Direct Dyes Azoic Dyes Reactive Dyes Vat Dyes

Direct Dyes
Simple application Cheap Complete color range Moderate color fastness. Mainly used for cellulosic fibers; Can also be applied on rayon, silk & wool

Easy to dye Good light fastness. Possible to improve on wash fastness Not so expensive products or product with fewer washes such as T-shirts, curtains & theatre productions.

Yellow Orange

Pink Red

Brown Violet

Turquoise Black Forest Green

Fushia Scarlet

Grey Blue

Green Wine

China Blue

Azoic Dyes
Naphthol dye or ice color Complicated application Bright shade at moderate cost; Good washing fastness Moderate to poor dry cleaning & rubbing fastness

Azo Dye Synthesis

Coupling

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Not applied directly as dyes, but are actually produced within the fibre itself. Done with impregnating the fiber with one component of the dye, followed by treatment in another component, thus forming the dye within the fiber.

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NH2 CH3 NO2

O HO C

NH

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Formation of this insoluble dye within the fabric makes it very fast to washing. The deposition of the dye on the surface of the fibre produces poor rub fastness

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Dyed in cold for all natural fibers

Naphtol dyes are not sold in the form of a "finished dye

Insoluble azo base & fast colour coupling

Water insoluble azo dye are of exceptional fastness

properties.

2004 following chart of basic range shows only a very limited number of colours14 The that can be obtained by using combinations of Naphtol & Diazo.

DIAZO SALT ORANGE GC

RED RC RED B BORDEAUX GP VIOLET B

NAPHTOL
CHROME YELLOW CADMIUM YELLOW YELLOW OCHRE REDDISH YELLOW CHROME YELLOW GOLDEN YELLOW RED RUST

ORANGE
BRILLIANT RED CRIMSON CLARET VIOLET

RED ORANGE
DEEP RED CRIMSON LAKE BORDEAUX DARK VIOLET

PALE BROWN

APRICOT

BLUE BB OR 3B
GREEN BB GREEN GT

BLUE
BLUE GREEN LEAF GREEN

NAVY BLUE
DARK GREEN BLUE GREEN

DARK BROWN

GREEN

BLACK B

BLACK

BLACK

BLACK

Vat Dyes
Difficult to apply Most expensive; Good all round fastness except indigo & sulphurised vat species Commonly used for high quality cotton goods, e.g. towel; specially used in the dyeing of denim fabric.

 Insoluble in water & become water soluble when reduced in the presence of an alkali.

After dyeing, the fabric is oxidized & the dye again

becomes water insoluble.

Reducing vat dye into a water-soluble complex,

stabilized water-soluble vat dye.

Use:
Cotton dyeing where high wash & boil fastness required. Cannot be used on animal fibers, (wool, natural silk, & various hairs). Solubilized vat dyes, can be used for dyeing on animal fibers.

Indonesian batik dyeing for green shades.

Reactive Dyes
Introduced to the market in 1956. They react chemically with the fiber Cannot be removed by washing or boiling.

 Low affinity to cellulose;

therefore large amounts of salt

are required to force its

deposition on he fabric.

 Addition of alkali causes the

deposited dyes to react with the

fiber..

Cold dyeing
Hot dyeing types.

Reactive Dyes - Use:

Bright dyeing with high

light & wash fastness is

required. Cold dyeing - batik work. Usage is in dyeing cotton linen & viscose rayon.

Yellow 2GL Golden Yellow 2RL Orange 2R Scarlet Red BG (primary) Red 4B (bluish red) Red 8B (magenta)

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REACTIVE DYES

Rubinole 5B Brilliant Blue 2R Brilliant Blue BL Violet 2R Turquoise 2G

Navy GRL
Brown 2R Brilliant Green BL Black B (blue base) Black 2B (green base)

Dye for Protein Fibers:

Acid Dyes Metal-complex Dyes Chrome Dyes

Acid Dyes
Easy application; Complete color range Good bright shades; Fastness properties may vary among individual dyes. Commonly used for wool, silk & nylon.

 Vary in their basic chemical structure Have one common feature - they dye from an acid dye bath. All acid dyes can be grouped in 3 sub groups: a. Level dyeing acid dyes b. Acid milling dyes c. Pre-metalized dyes

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a. Level dyeing acid dyes:

Produce bright dyeing. Good leveling properties. Dyed from a dye bath containing strong acids (Sulphuric or Formic acid). Low wash & light fastness.

b. Acid milling dyes: High wash & light fastness

Dyeing woolen fabrics

Require great care in application

Dye bath have weak acid , acid releasing salts

(ammonium sulphate or ammonium acetate)

c. Pre-metalized dyes
Extension of mordant dyes. The metal component being already incorporated in the dye Very good light fastness even in pale shades

Introduction to Coloration & Finishing

Metal Complex Dyes

Relatively difficult to apply

Expensive
Complete color range but duller shade than acid

dyes;
Good fastness due to high molecular size &

metal complex structure

Mainly used for wool & Nylon.

Chrome Mordant Dyes

Complicated application;

Expensive;
Complete color range but very dull shade;

Good all round fastness.

Mainly used for wool products especially for the

end use of carpet.

Dye for Other Fibers:

Disperse Dyes for Polyester, Acetate

 Acetate (or Celanese) fiber had hardly any affinity for

water-soluble dyes.
A new dyeing principle was introduced: dyeing with

water dispersed colored organic substances.

Require skill in application (either by carrier or under

high temperature);
Moderate price

Complete color range;

Limited solubility in water

Good fastness
sublimation property.

Colour Fastness
A good dye must withstand the subsequent treatment The degree to which a dyed material can withstand such treatments & wearing is called color fastness.

Common colour fastness:

Laundering (washing), Light exposure, Dry cleaning, Perspiration Rubbing (crocking).

Dye classes colour fastness

Source:V.A Shenai published 2008

Thank You Any Questions.