BUTTON HOLE MACHINE

BY MADHUMATHI. G

INTRODUCTION
y Buttonholes are holes in fabric that are paired with functional y y y y y

buttons that serve as fasteners and as decorative buttons. Buttonholes may be either made by hand sewing or automated by a sewing machine. Buttonholes are the essential finishing touch on blouses, jackets and any other project that utilizes buttons for closure. They are normally stitched when the garment is finished. The simplest buttonholes are used on shirts, blouses and other light weight garments. The complex buttonholes are preferred for all tailored garments such as jackets, overcoats, etc.

GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
y The form and size
y Shapes of Buttonhole

of the buttonhole y The stitch type y The stitch bight y Stitch density

stitches:
y Circle y Eyelet y Radial y With or without bar tack y Straight legs y Overlapped legs y Rounded edges y Square edges.

PRINCIPLES OF BUTTONHOLE STITCH FORMATION

y Based on the principle of lock stitch or chain

stitch. y Chain stitched - good appearance and less durability.

y It provides purl effect and is preferred for jackets,

light weight materials, etc.

y Lock stitch - increased life and less attractive

appearance than the chain stitch.

BUTTONHOLE MACHINES -- JUKI -LBH-1790, COMPUTER-CONTROLLED MACHINE

STITCH PATTERNS

SETTINGS FOR BUTTONHOLE MACHINES

y y y y y y y y y y y y y

The normal settings to be considered in buttonhole machines are, Height of the needle bar Needle to hook timing The position of needle and needle guard. Adjusting the feed motor to have uniform feed Adjusting knife drop position with relation to throat plate Adjusting the stroke of cloth cutting knife Replacing knife with reference to the button hole width and length Adjusting the needle thread trimmer timing Adjusting the needle thread trimmer height Adjusting the bobbin thread trimmer Adjusting presser foot lift, pedal, and take up spring tension Adjusting the thread breakage plate and all the sensors.

y According to the width of the button hole, the size of the knife is y y y

y y

chosen. The knife opens the hole in number of strokes to make neat finish. For lock stitch machines the bigger hook bobbins are available to have higher production. Operating panel facilitates complete data entry like the selection of pattern, editing the pattern chosen, cloth cut length, stitch density, bar tacking length, eyelet shape length, number of basting, basting pitch, pitch and width of going and returning, knife motion, speed, thread tension, and so on. Modern machines are coming with different pedal positions using which the material can be accurately positioned and stitched. It consists of intermediate position to position the fabric then sewing opposition to hold and stitch.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Sewing speed Needle bar stroke Size of cloth cutting knife Bartacking width Buttonhole length Precision of needle throwing mechanism Needle thread tension Number of stitches Needle (at the time of delivery) Hook Lift of the work clamp Auto-lifter Needle throwing system Cloth feeding system Cloth cutting knife system Number of standard patterns Number of patterns Max. 4,200rpm, Normal 3,600rpm 34.6mm 6.4 31.8mm (1/4" 1-1/4") Max. 5.0mm Max. 41mm (optional: 70mm, 120mm) 0.05mm Active tension (electronic thread tension control system) Automatically computed from the size of the buttonhole DP5 (#11J) #11J 14mm Provided as standard (stepping motor type) Stepping motor Intermittent feed by stepping motor By double-acting solenoid 30 patterns Max. 99 patterns #14J DP type, full-rotary hook

OPERATION PANEL
y STANDARD PANEL y All kinds of data can be

entered on or selected from the operation panel. y Various data, such as pattern numbers and stitch shapes are indicated on the LCD section with easy-to-understand pictographs.

y IP-310A y large color LCD touch panel has been adopted for the display. It gives clear displays that allow the operator to understand operating procedures. y The IP-310A panel can be connected to a personal computer and can store data on CompactFlash.. This allows data to be exchanged or shared among sewing machines installed in a factory or among remote factories. y The IP-310A panel has been provided with a process improvement supporting feature through the indication of the operational state of the sewing machine, and a maintenance and management feature for indicating the needle changing timing and cleaning timing.

JUKI's unique active tension (Electronic thread tension control system).

y Needle thread tension for sewing parallel and

bartacking sections of buttonholes can be separately controlled through the operation panel and stored in memory according to various sewing conditions (e.g., type of thread, type of material and sewing speed). y The machine is able to change the needle thread tensions at the parallel and bartacking sections of the buttonhole, to produce a beautiful buttonhole shape. This capability helps greatly in preventing thread breakage. y Needle thread tension is activated at the beginning and end of sewing. This prevents unthreading of the needle thread, and thread fraying that is likely to occur at the beginning of sewing. y Thread tension for basting stitching can be specified separately.

Basting stitch mechanism is effective for the production of beautiful buttonholes.

y The basting stitch is effective on elastic materials such as knits. y Basting stitch: Since the needle thread is tucked in without fail,it

will never jut out of the buttonhole seams. Basting stitch can be sewn by nine rounds.

Major drive mechanism is electronically controlled

y An electronic control feature has been adopted for the material feed

mechanism, needle rocking mechanism, needle thread trimming mechanism, bobbin thread trimming mechanism, cloth cutting knife mechanism and presser bar lifting mechanism. y In addition, mechanisms such as V-belts, stop-motion mechanisms and cams have been substantially reduced to ensure operation with lower vibration and noise. y A direct-driven system that directly connects the compact AC servomotor to the main shaft has been adopted. y All adjustment values are entered as data. They can be set or stored in the memory on the operation panel.

BUTTON SEWING MACHINE

y Button sewing machines are used to attach the buttons

to the surface of the garment. y Various machines are available to different kinds of buttons. y The variables of button sewing machines are: y Size and shape of the button which determines the size and type of the button clamp y The number and disposition of holes y The form of stitching either parallel or cross, whether button is sewn shank or neck y The stitch type y The number of stitches

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