FABRICS - KNITS

FABRICS - KNITS
FIRST KNITTING M/c IN 1589 IN ENGLAND WILLIAM LEE FIRST KNITTING M/c CIRCULAR BED IN 1798 IN FRANCE MARC DACROIX FABRIC ADVANTAGES: STRETCHABILITY, DRAPABILITY, CREASE RESISTANCE, WRINKLE RECOVERY KNITTING INDUSTRY: FABRIC IN YARDAGE PRODUCERS & SELLERS PRODUCT MANUFACTURERS(HOSIERY,SWEATERS,T SHIRTS)

INTERLOOPING OF YARNS LOOPS(STITCHES) ARE FORMED WITH NEEDLES NEW SERIES OF LOOPS ARE MADE THROUGH PREVIOUS LOOPS

FABRICS - KNITS

FABRIC - KNITS
KNITTING TERMS:
1.
-

WALES:
VERTICAL COLUMN OF STITCHES (LOOPS) RUN LENTH WISE IN THE FABRIC (LIKE WARP) WALES PER INCH DEPEND ON NEEDLE DENSITY- WHICH DEPEND ON CLOSENESS OF NEEDLES & THICKNESS NEEDLE BEDS ARE METAL PIECES INTO WHICH GROOVES ARE CUT, NEEDLES ARE SLOTTED IN

2.
-

COURSES:
HORIZONTAL ROWS OF STITCHES (LOOPS) RUN WIDTHWISE IN THE FABRIC (LIKE WEFT) COURSES PER INCH DEPEND ON HEIGHT OF STITCH LOOP WHICH DEPEND ON DISTANCE NEEDLE PULLS THE YARN (IN WEFT KNITTING) AMOUNT OF YARN FED FOR LOOP (IN WARP KNITTING)

3.
-

TECHNICAL FACE & BACK OF FABRIC:

FACE USUALLY HAVE BETTER APPEARANCE , MORE NO. OF STITCHES, DESIGNS AND MOTIFS

4.
-

CUT: (IN WEFT KNITS ONLY)

THE NUMBER OF SLOTS & GROOVES PER INCH (FIXED IN M/c) IS KNOWN AS THE CUT HIGHER THE CUT, MORE CLOSELY KNIT THE FABRIC

5.
-

GAUGE: (IN WARP & WEFT KNITS ONLY)

THE NUMBER OF SLOTS & GROOVES PER INCH (FIXED IN M/c) IS KNOWN AS THE CUT HIGHER THE GAUGE, MORE CLOSELY KNIT THE FABRIC FULL FASHIONED KNITS = NEEDLES PER 1.5 INCHES CIR. KNIT HOSIERY = NEEDLES PER 1 INCH WARP KNIT TRICOT = NEEDLES PER 1 INCH WARP KNIT RACHEL = NEEDLES PER 2 INCHES

FABRIC - KNITS
TYPES OF MACHINES:
1.
-

FLAT BED:
NEEDLES ARE ARRANGED IN STRAIGHT ORIENTATION FABRICS PRODUCED ARE OPEN WIDTH WIDTH : 12 INCHES TO 200 INCHES PRODUCTION RATE IS SLOWER THAN CIRCULAR BED FULLY FASHIONED SWEATERS, COMPLEX CABLE PATTERNS CAN BE MADE EASILY

2.
-

CIRCULAR BED:
NEEDLES ARE ARRANGED IN CIRCULAR ORIENTATION FABRICS PRODUCED ARE TUBULAR DIAMETER : 2.5 INCHES TO 30 INCHES PRODUCTION RATE IS FASTERTHAN FLAT BED TUBULAR FABRIC CAN BE CUT OPEN FULLY FASHIONED SWEATERS, COMPLEX CABLE PATTERNS CANNOT BE MADE EASILY

KNITTING MACHINES

KNITTING MACHINES

FABRIC - KNITS
TYPES OF NEEDLES:
NEEDLES ARE ORIENTED VERTICALLY, HORIZONTALLY, OR AT 45 D ANGLE NEEDLES ARE HELD IN POSITION IN METAL GROOVED BEDS WHICH ARE RECTANGULAR OR CIRCULAR

1.

LATCH NEEDLE: FOR WEFT KNITTING

FABRIC - KNITS
TYPES OF NEEDLES:
NEEDLES ARE ORIENTED VERTICALLY, HORIZONTALLY, OR AT 45 D ANGLE NEEDLES ARE HELD IN POSITION IN METAL GROOVED BEDS WHICH ARE RECTANGULAR OR CIRCULAR

2. SPRING BEARD NEEDLE: FOR WARP KNITTING

FABRIC - KNITS
TYPES OF NEEDLES:
NEEDLES ARE ORIENTED VERTICALLY, HORIZONTALLY, OR AT 45 D ANGLE NEEDLES ARE HELD IN POSITION IN METAL GROOVED BEDS WHICH ARE RECTANGULAR OR CIRCULAR

3. COMPOUND NEEDLE: FOR WARP KNITTING = ENABLES HIGHER RATE OF PRODUCTION

NEEDLE MOVEMENTS BY CAM

WORKING OF LATCH NEEDLE

WORKING OF SPRING BEARDED NEEDLE

WORKING OF COMPOUND NEEDLE

FABRIC - KNITS
TYPES OF STITCHES / LOOPS:
4 PRINCIPAL STITCHES WHICH ARE COMBINED TO FORM ALL KNITS KNIT, PURL, MISS, TUCK

1.

KNIT STITCH:
ALSO CALLED PLAIN STITCH FABRICS ARE CALLED = JERSEY

FABRIC - KNITS
TYPES OF STITCHES / LOOPS:
4 PRINCIPAL STITCHES WHICH ARE COMBINED TO FORM ALL KNITS KNIT, PURL, MISS, TUCK

1.

PURL STITCH:
ALSO CALLED REVERSE PLAIN STITCH FABRIC APPEARANCE RESEMBLES THE UNDER SIDE OF JERSEY FABRICS

FABRIC - KNITS
TYPES OF STITCHES / LOOPS:
4 PRINCIPAL STITCHES WHICH ARE COMBINED TO FORM ALL KNITS KNIT, PURL, MISS, TUCK

3.

MISS/FLOAT/WELT STITCH:
WHEN ONE OR MORE NEEDLES ARE DEACTIVATED YARN PASSES WITHOUT FORMING LOOPS AND FLOATS AT THE BACK OF FABRIC USED TO CREATE COLOUR & FIGURE DESIGNS (WITH SELECTIVE POSITIONING OF COLOUR YARNS) REDUCE FABRIC WEIGHT, STRETCH, WIDTH

FABRIC - KNITS
TYPES OF STITCHES / LOOPS:
4 PRINCIPAL STITCHES WHICH ARE COMBINED TO FORM ALL KNITS KNIT, PURL, MISS, TUCK

3.

TUCK STITCH:
WHEN NEEDLES HOLDS ITS OLD (PREVIOUS) LOOP AND ALSO RECEIVES NEW YARN FOR NEW LOOP THUS, 2 LOOPS ARE COLLECTED IN NEEDLE HOOK ACTION MAY REPEAT SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE LOOPS ARE CAST OFF FROM NEEDLE HOOK VISIBLE IN BACK SIDE OF FABFIC AS ELONGATED, INVERTED V USED TO CREATE COLOUR EFFECTS, RAISED SURFACE TEXTURE, HOLE OR EYELET EFFECT INCREASE FABRIC WEIGHT, WIDTH, THICKNESS.

FABRIC - KNITS
TYPES OF KNITTING:
WEFT KNIT & WARP KNIT

1. WEFT KNIT:
YARNS RUN HORIZONTALLY, SIDE TO SIDE, ACROSS THE WIDTH OF FABRIC ALL LOOPS IN COURSES ARE MADE BY THE SAME CONTINUOUS YARN SUPPLIED FROM CONES ARE MADE IN FLAT & CIRCULAR BED M/c

FABRIC - KNITS
TYPES OF KNITTING:
WEFT KNIT & WARP KNIT

1. WEFT KNIT: BASIC STRUCTURES A. JERSEY KNIT FABRICS:

ALSO CALLED SINGLE JERSEY ALL KNIT STITCHES IN ONE SIDE (FACE SIDE); PURL STITCHES AT BACK THUS, SMOOTH FACE ; TEXTURED MOTTLED BACK UNBALANCED STRUCTURE = FABRIC TENDS TO CURL IN ONE SIDE MACHINES: WITH SINGLE SET OF NEEDLES IN SINGLE BED; FLAT & CIRCULAR BED M/c RATE OF PRODUCTION : HIGH BREAKAGE OF ONE YARN LEADS TO SEVERE UNRAVELLING PROBLEM STRETCH : EQUAL IN BOTH DIRECTION

JERSEY KNIT FABRICS

FABRIC - KNITS
TYPES OF KNITTING:
WEFT KNIT & WARP KNIT

1. WEFT KNIT: BASIC STRUCTURES B. RIB KNIT FABRICS:

2X2, 1X1, 3X1 ETC ALL KNIT STITCHES IN SAME WALE; PURL STITCHES IN SAME WALE DISTINCT LENGTHWISE RIBS IN BOTH SIDES; RAISED STITCHES ARE WALES OF KNIT STITCHES; RECESSED STITCHES ARE WALES OF PURL STITCHES MAY BE REVERSABLE MORE STABLE STRUCTURE THAN JERSEY MACHINES: WITH 2 SETS OF NEEDLES IN 2 SEPARATE BEDS; FLAT & CIRCULAR BED M/c RATE OF PRODUCTION : LOWER THAN JERSEY M/c STRETCH : MORE IN COURSE WISE DIRECTION

RIB KNIT FABRICS

FABRIC - KNITS
TYPES OF KNITTING:
WEFT KNIT & WARP KNIT

1. WEFT KNIT: BASIC STRUCTURES C. PURL KNIT FABRICS:

LOOKS SOMEWHAT LIKE BACK OF PURL FABRICS IN BOTH SIDES ALL KNIT STITCHES IN SAME COURSE; PURL STITCHES IN SAME COURSE MAY BE REVERSABLE MORE FLATTER & STABLE STRUCTURE THAN JERSEY MACHINES: WITH 2 SETS OF NEEDLES IN 2 SEPARATE BEDS; FLAT & CIRCULAR BED M/c; MAINLY PRODUCED IN PURL KNIT M/c WITH 2 BEDS BUT ONE SET OF DOUBLE HEADED LATCH NEEDLE RATE OF PRODUCTION : LOWER THAN JERSEY & RIB M/c BUT VERY VERSATILE STRETCH : MORE IN WALE LENGTHWISE DIRECTION

PURL KNIT FABRICS

NEEDLES OF PURL KNITTING

COMPARISON

FABRIC - KNITS
TYPES OF KNITTING:
WEFT KNIT & WARP KNIT

1. WEFT KNIT: SPECIALISED STRUCTURES A. INTERLOCK KNIT FABRICS:

LOOKS SOMEWHAT RIB KNITS(WHERE WALES OF KNIT ST. IS BACKED BY WALES OF PURL ST AT THE BACK OF FABRIC) BUT IN INTERLOCK KNIT, WALES OF KNIT ST. IS BACKED BY WALES OF KNIT ST ONLY AT THE BACK OF FABRIC) MAY BE REVERSABLE MORE DIMENSIONAL STABILITY; DO NOT EASILY STRETCH OUT OF SHAPE; SMOOTH SUR. FOR SCREEN & HEAT TRANSFER PRINTING INTERLOCK MACHINES: WITH 2 SETS OF NEEDLES IN 2 SEPARATE BEDS; FLAT & CIRCULAR BED M/c; RATE OF PRODUCTION : LOWER THAN JERSEY & RIB M/c BUT VERY VERSATILE FABRIC MORE COSTLY

INTERLOCK KNIT FABRICS

FABRIC - KNITS
TYPES OF KNITTING:
WEFT KNIT & WARP KNIT

1. WEFT KNIT: SPECIALISED STRUCTURES B. DOUBLE KNIT FABRICS:

LOOKS SOMEWHAT RIB KNITS, CLOSE STITCHES, SHAPE RETENTION ABILITY & DIM. STABILITY GENERALLY SIMILAR ON BOTH SIDES (DESIGNED OR PATTERNED EFFECTS) INTERLOCK MACHINES: WITH 2 SETS OF NEEDLES IN 2 SEPARATE BEDS; FLAT & CIRCULAR BED M/c; RATE OF PRODUCTION : LOWER THAN JERSEY & RIB M/c BUT VERY VERSATILE FABRIC MORE COSTLY

FABRIC - KNITS
TYPES OF KNITTING:
WEFT KNIT & WARP KNIT

1. WEFT KNIT: SPECIALISED STRUCTURES C. HIGH PILE/FAKE FUR KNIT FABRICS:

SIMPLE JERSEY STRUCTURE BUT LOOSE FIBRES OR SLIVERS ARE FED WHILE YARN IS PASSING AND ARE HELD WITHIN THE PLAIN KNIT STRUCTURE SPECIAL FINISHING PROCESSES & FIBRE SELECTION ENSURE FUR LIKE SIMULATIONS FABRIC MORE COSTLY

HIGH PILE/FAKE FUR KNIT FABRICS

FABRIC - KNITS
TYPES OF KNITTING:
WEFT KNIT & WARP KNIT

1. WEFT KNIT: SPECIALISED STRUCTURES D. TERRY PILE KNIT FABRICS:

SIMPLE JERSEY STRUCTURE BUT 2 YARNS ARE FED SIMULTANEOUSLY INTO THE SAME NEEDLES. ONE YARN APPEARS IN THE FACE; OTHER GOES TO THE BACK = CALLED PLATING IN TERRY, ONE YARN IS PULED OUT & LOOPED BY A SPECIAL DEVICE; THE OTHER YARN FORMS THE GROUND FABRICS ARE WIDELY USED IN BEACH ROBES, TOWELS.

FABRIC - KNITS
TYPES OF KNITTING:
WEFT KNIT & WARP KNIT

1. WEFT KNIT: SPECIALISED STRUCTURES D. VELOUR KNIT FABRICS:

MADE BY THE SAME PROCESS AS TERRY AFTERWARDS, PILE LOOPS ARE SHEERED & FABRIC BRUSHED SOFT, SUEDE LIKE TEXTURE DRESSES, JOGGING SUITS ETC.

FABRIC - KNITS
TYPES OF KNITTING:
WEFT KNIT & WARP KNIT

1. WEFT KNIT: SPECIALISED STRUCTURES D. FULLY FASHIONED KNIT FABRICS:

SHAPING DURING THE KNITTING PROCESS FLAT BED FULL FASHION KNITTING MACHINE M/C CAPABLE OF INCREASING OR DECREASING WALES, ie NEEDLES IN ACTION

FULLY FASHIONED KNIT FABRICS

FULLY FASHIONED KNIT FABRICS

FABRIC - KNITS
TYPES OF KNITTING:
WEFT KNIT & WARP KNIT

2. WARP KNIT: BASIC STRUCTURES

VISUALLY IN THE FACE SIDE STITCHES RUN VERTICALLY BUT ANGLED FROM SIDE TO SIDE; ANGLED HORIZONTAL FLOATS CALLED LAPS AT BACK OF FABRIC YARNS ARE FED FROM WARP BEAM, PASSES THROUGH NEEDLES (BEARDED FOR TRICOT; COMPOUND FOR RACHEL) MOUNTED ON GUIDE BARS (WHICH CAN MOVE LATERALLY) YARNS MAKE VERTICAL LOOP IN ONE COURSE; THEN MOVE DIAGONALLY TO OCCUPY A POSITION IN ANOTHER ADJACENT WALE TO MAKE A LOOP IN THE NEXT COURSE ALL FLAT M/c, CIRCULAR IS TO COMPLICATED IN WORKING & HENCE FABRIC IS MORE COSTLY

WEFT & WARP KNIT G

WEFT & WARP KNIT

WARP KNIT: BASIC STRUCTURES

FABRIC - KNITS
TYPES OF KNITTING:
WEFT KNIT & WARP KNIT

1.

WARP KNIT: BASIC STRUCTURES A. TRICOT:

LIKE WEAVING LOOMS FINE GAUGE 14 TO 36 (NEEDLES PER INCH) 2 TO 4 YARN GUIDE BARS(MOVE LATERALLY) LESS COMPLEX DESIGNS THAN RACHEL TRICOT JERSEY: SIMPLE MOST USED CONST., FACE KNIT STITCHES, POPULAR IN LINGERIE TRICOT SATIN: VARIATION OF ABOVE; UNDERLAPS 6 WALES WIDTH, SMOOTH SATIN LIKE, WIDE USE TRICOT BRUSHED: LONG UNDERLAPS ARE GIVEN MECHANICAL NAP FINISH

TRICOT

FABRIC - KNITS
TYPES OF KNITTING:
WEFT KNIT & WARP KNIT

1.

WARP KNIT: BASIC STRUCTURES B. RASCHEL:

LIKE WEAVING LOOMS FINE GAUGE 14 TO 36 (NEEDLES PER INCH) 4 TO 50 YARN GUIDE BARS(MOVE LATERALLY) MORE COMPLEX DESIGNS THAN TRICOT

RASCHEL

RASCHEL

FABRIC - KNITS
TYPES OF KNITTING:
WEFT KNIT & WARP KNIT

1.

WARP KNIT: OTHER STRUCTURES A. SIMPLEX:

BOTH FACE & BACK LOOK LIKE FACE OF TRICOT THICKER, FIRMER, BUT STILL AVAILABLE IN FINE GAUGE END USE: GLOVES, HANDBAGS

A. MILANESE:
FINE RIB ON FACE; DIAGONAL P[ATTERNS AT BACK MADE FROM 2 SETS OF YARN GLOVES, LINGERIE

FABRICS - KNITS
COMPARISON OF WARP & WEFT KNIT FABRICS
PROPERTY WEFT KNITS WARP KNITS

STRETCH

BOTH IN LENGTH & WIDTH

LIMITED STRETCH

RUN/RAVEL

MAY

DO NOT

MACHINE CHANGE OVER PRODUCTIO N

RAPID TO NEW DESIGNS

SLOWER & MORE COSTLIER TO NEW DESIGNS ONLY FLAT ONLY YARDAGE

FLAT OR CIRCULAR; YARDAGE & SHAPED GARMENTS ALSO

FABRICS - KNITS
EFFECT OF WALES/INCH & COURSES/INCH
MORE WPI MORE STABLE & LESS SHRINKAGE WIDTHWISE MORE CPI MORE STABLE & LESS SHRINKAGE LENGTHWISE MORE WPI & CPI MORE STABLE & LESS SHRINKAGE LENGTHWISE & WIDTHWISE LESS WPI & CPI LESS STABLE & MORE SHRINKAGE LENGTHWISE & WIDTHWISE

FABRICS - KNITS
COMPARISON OF WOVEN & KNIT FABRICS
FEATURE KNITS WOVEN

MOVEMENT, MOBILITY, ELASTICITY WRINKLE RECOVERY

HIGH DEGREE

COMPARATIVELY RIGID (UNLESS STRETCH YARNS ARE USED) WITH DIFFICULTY (BUT SHARP CREASES THAT CAM BE MADE EASILY) LESS BULKY; PROVIDE LESSER DEGREE OF INSULATION CAPACITY MORE STABLE LESS PRONE TO SNAG

MORE READILY (BUT LESS SHARP CREASES THAT CAM BE MADE) MORE BULKY; PROVIDE MORE DEGREE OF INSULATION CAPACITY PRONE TO STRETCH OUT OF SHAPE MORE PRONE TO SNAG

INSULATION

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY

FABRIC - KNITS
KNITTED FABRIC COSTING:
1. 2.

3.

FIBRE CONTENT YARN TYPE CONSTRUCTION OF DESIGN

KNITTED FABRIC DEFECTS:

1. 2. 3.

BARRE MARKS: STRIPE OR BANDS DUE TO DIFF. THICKNESS, LUSTRE, DYE ABSORBTION OF YARNS,
ONLY IN WEFT KNITS

4. 5. 6. 7.

BIRDSEYE / TUCKING DEFECT: UNINTENTIONAL TUCKING DUE TO NEEDLE DIS FUNCTION FLOAT: UNINTENTIONAL MISS STITCH DUE TO NEEDLE DIS FUNCTION BOARDY: VERY HARSH, STIFF HAND DUE TO STITCHES BEING TOO TIGHT BOWING: LINE EFFECT WHICH CURVES (COURSES) DUE TO FAULTY TAKE UP IN M/c COCKLED FABRIC: FABRIC PUCKERS DUE TO UNEVEN STITCHES OR YARN SIZEOF WARP ENDS
THROUGH HEALD EYES RESULTING FAULTY FABRIC

RUN / LADDER:

A SERIES OF DROP STITCHES IN A WALE