Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
Presented By:
Shivangi Srivastava
OBJECTIVES
o identify and analyse fabric,, trims and its properties, sources and price o Control the quality of garment by using correct and effective information on Patterns and construction
TRIMS
MEASUREMENT SPEC SHEET FLOW PROCESS CHART
T T
DEVELOPMENT
CMT
WORK METHODOLOGY
INTRODUCTION INTRODUCION FABRIC
Step 1: Purchase of garments (2 in number) Step 2: Testing of all fabrics used in the
garment
TRIMS
MEASUREMENT SPEC SHEET FLOW PROCESS CHART
DEVELOPMENT
CMT
WORK METHODOLOGY
Step 6: Analysis of deviation between the
INTRODUCTION INTRODUCION FABRIC
fabrics of the sample garment and the sourced fabric, on the basis of the test results of the same
TRIMS
MEASUREMENT SPEC SHEET FLOW PROCESS CHART
Step 7: Preparation of measurement chart Step 8: Development of flow process chart Step 9: Pattern Development
DEVELOPMENT
CMT
WORK METHODOLOGY
Step 10: Prototype Development (test fit in
INTRODUCTION INTRODUCION FABRIC
muslin fabric)
TRIMS
MEASUREMENT SPEC SHEET FLOW PROCESS CHART
DEVELOPMENT
CMT
Step 13: Garment Development Step 14: Comparison of CMT (Cut Make
Trim) for tailor-made and mass manufactured
STYLE DESCRIPTION
INTRODUCTION INTRODUCION FABRIC
TRIMS
MEASUREMENT SPEC SHEET FLOW PROCESS CHART
DEVELOPMENT
CMT
THEME : Fantasia SELLING PERIOD : Summer 2006 BODY TYPE : Female Kids wear SIZE RANGES : 3-14 SAMPLE SIZE : Size 3
FIT INDICATOR
INTRODUCTION INTRODUCION FABRIC
TRIMS
MEASUREMENT SPEC SHEET FLOW PROCESS CHART
DEVELOPMENT
CMT
FABRIC DESCRIPTION
INTRODUCION FABRIC FABRIC
FABRIC 1
FABRIC 2
TRIMS
MEASUREMENT SPEC SHEET FLOW PROCESS CHART
DEVELOPMENT
CMT
FABRIC 3
FABRIC 4
FABRIC 5
FABRIC DESCRIPTION
MATERIAL NAME Bukram(starched cotton) [Code F1]
Hiralal and Sons Secunderabad Forms Innermost layer and give body. White Cotton 4 ply fine yarn Plain weave Polyester fabric Glass Tissue [Code F2] [Code F3] F.D.Khan and Ranglal Piramal Charminar, Hyderabad used as top layer at bottom White Polyester Filament, Coaglative Glass Tissue [Code F4] Ranglal Piramal Charminar, Hyderabad used as ruffles and as top layer on sleeve White Polyester Filament Plain weave 30 Ne, 0.18 gsm none Net [Code F5] Mohammad Cap VENDOR VENDOR LOCATION MATERIAL DESCRIPTION
COUNT
WEIGHT STRUCTURAL/APPLIED DESIGN FINISHES CARE INSTRUCTION
240 Ne
0.89 gsm None
highly starched
softener wash
Wash in cold water as use mild iron can lose the stiffness 1 meter
QUANTITY
1 meter
1.5 mts
0.50 mts
Abids
TRIM DESCRIPTION
INTRODUCION FABRIC TRIMS TRIMS
RIBBON
ZIPPER
DEVELOPMENT
CMT
EMBROIDERED LACE
NET LACE
SEQUINS
TRIM DESCRIPTION
INTRODUCION FABRIC TRIMS TRIMS
Plastic Wire Hiralal & Sons Secundrabad To finish the edge of ruffles White transparent 0.50 mm N/A
MATERIAL
DESCRIPTION COLOUR
plain satin
ribbon White width Satin weave
RIBBON
DEVELOPMENT
CMT
PLASTIC WIRE
INSTRUCTION QUANTITY
LIST OF EXPERIMENTS
SAMPLE SIZE
UNITS
1 1.1 1.2 2 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 3 3.1 3.1.1 3.1.2 3.2 3.2.1
FIBRE TESTING Burning Test Chemical Test YARN TESTING Yarn Count Yarn Twist EPI X PPI Crimp FABRIC TESTING Aesthetic test Crease Recovery Pilling Test Durable Test Tearing Test Kg 0.5216 0.5416 0.4688 0.4268 4 X 1.5 cm 25X12.5cm Degrees grade 70 72 71 75 3 3 10 cms 10 cms 1 X 1 20 cm Denier Twist/m yarns % 240 130 34 1 250 134 40 1 5 1/2cm Cotton Cotton Cotton Cotton
3.2.2
3.2.3 3.3 3.3.1 3.4
Thickness
Abrasion Test Comfort Test Stiffness Safety Test
1.25 (diameter)
38mm (diameter)
mm
Weight Loss %
0.164
3.53
0.160
3.43
25X2.5 cm
mgcm
0.21
0.21
0.03
0.03
0.08
0.08
3.4.1
Shrinkage Test
10 X 10
2.5
2.2
DEVELOPMENT
CMT
LIST OF EXPERIMENTS 1 1.1 1.2 2 2.1 2.2 2.3 3 3.1 3.1.1 3.1.2 3.2 3.2.1 3.2.2 3.2.3 3.3 3.3.1 3.4 3.4.1 FIBRE TESTING Burning Test Chemical Test YARN TESTING Yarn Count Yarn Twist EPI X PPI FABRIC TESTING Aesthetic test Crease Recovery Pilling Test Durable Test Tearing Test Thickness Abrasion Test Comfort Test Stiffness Safety Test Shrinkage Test 5
SAMPLE SIZE
UNITS
WEFT WAY
BOTH WAY
80 0 64
4 X 1.5 cm 25X12.5cm
Degrees grade
135.33
137
120
124 5
0.8533
0.8722
0.7413
0.14 2.36
25X2.5 cm 10 X 10
mgcm %
0.296
0.256
0.05
0.04
0.296 0
0.11 0
DEVELOPMENT
CMT
SOURCED
LIST OF EXPERIMENTS 1 1.1 1.2 2 2.1 2.2 2.3 FIBRE TESTING Burning Test Chemical Test YARN TESTING Yarn Count Yarn Twist EPI X PPI 5
SAMPLE SIZE
UNITS
Polyester Polyester
1/2cm
10 cms 10 cms 1 X 1
30 120 0 104
30 0 107
30 120 0 55
30 0 58
3
3.1 3.1.1
FABRIC TESTING
Aesthetic test Crease Recovery 4 X 1.5 cm Degrees 104.7 107.7 101.33
104.33
3.1.2
3.2 3.2.1
Pilling Test
Durable Test Tearing Test
25X12.5cm
grade
5
0.320 0.380 0.688
Kg
0.721
3.2.2
3.2.3 3.3 3.3.1 3.4 3.4.1
Thickness
Abrasion Test Comfort Test Stiffness Safety Test Shrinkage Test
mm
Weight Loss % mgcm 0.07 0.072 0.05
0.88
2.82
0.84
2.22
0.05
0.06
0.09
10 X 10
FABRIC 3
Fabric sourced has single type of yarn with
ORIGINAL
DEVELOPMENT
CMT
SOURCED
LIST OF EXPERIMENTS
SAMPLE SIZE
UNITS
1
1.1 1.2 2
FIBRE TESTING
Burning Test Chemical Test YARN TESTING 5 1/2cm
Polyester Polyester
Denier
Twist/m yarns %
Polyester Polyester
Polyester Polyester
Polyester Polyester
2.1
2.2 2.3 2.4
Yarn Count
Yarn Twist EPI X PPI Crimp
10 cms
10 cms 1 X 1 20 cm
30
0 148 0
28
0 154 0
30
0 72 0
28
0 80 0
3
3.1 3.1.1 3.1.2 3.2 3.2.1 3.2.2
FABRIC TESTING
Aesthetic test Crease Recovery Pilling Test Durable Test Tearing Test Thickness 1.25 (diameter) Kg mm 4 X 1.5 cm 25X12.5cm Degrees grade
99.33
118.33
103
107
0.3413
0.5413
0.4107
0.6107
0.59
0.62
3.2.3
3.3 3.3.1 3.4 3.4.1
Abrasion Test
Comfort Test Stiffness Safety Test Shrinkage Test
38mm (diameter)
Weight Loss %
3.89
3.20
25X2.5 cm 10 X 10
mgcm %
0.07
0.03
0.05
0.03
0.06 0
0.05 0
DEVELOPMENT
CMT
Fabric sourced has different shade of white. Conclusion: Fabric sourced is of better
quality with better hand and drapability.
SOURCED
TEST RESULTSFABRIC 5
MESH STRUCTURE
SAMPLE RESULT
LIST OF EXPERIMENTS
SAMPLE
SIZE
UNITS
WARP WAY
ORIGINAL SOURCED
WEFT WAY
ORIGINAL
BOTH WAY
1 FIBRE TESTING 1.1 Burning Test 1.2 Chemical Test 2 FABRIC TESTING 2.1 Needle Punch 2.2 Durable Test 2.3 Thickness 1.25 (diameter) 2.4 Aesthetic Test 10 X 10 mm 0.231 0.223 1 X 1 165 170 5 1/2cm Nylon Nylon Nylon Nylon Nylon Nylon Nylon Nylon
3 Shrinkage Test
FABRIC 5
Mesh fabric sourced is of same quality as
of the mesh fabric used in original garment
ORIGINAL
DEVELOPMENT
CMT
SOURCED
a b c d e f g h i j
= = = = = =
Full Length of Frock = 23 inch Lower Bodice Fabric 5 = 12 inch Lower Bodice Fabric 3 = 8 inch Upper Bodice = 123/8 inch Neck Depth = 5 inch Lower Bodice Fabric 3 = 4 inch = Second tier of drindle skirt = 18 inch = Sleeve Round(Shoulder for Raglan Sleeve = 61/2 inch = Shoulder Length = 4 inch = Waist = 10 inch Waist drop = 1 inch
g e
FABRIC
i
TRIMS
DEVELOPMENT
c b
CMT
a b c d e f i j
= = = = = = = =
Full Length of Frock = 23 inch Lower Bodice Fabric 5 = 12 inch Lower Bodice Fabric 3 = 8 inch Upper Bodice = 123/8 inch Neck Depth = 5 inch Lower Bodice Fabric 3 = 4 inch Shoulder Length = 4 inch Waist = 10 inch Waist drop = 1 inch
TRIMS
f a
DEVELOPMENT
CMT
c b
DATE: 04-10-07 NAME: PARTY WEAR FROCK S.NO. 1. MEASUREMENT Waist Circumference (TM) a) Relaxed b) Extended 2. 3. 4. Bust Hip Centre Length: a) Front b) Back 5. Full Length a) Front 103/4 81/4 10 22 221/2 223/4 223/4 SIZE(3)
b) Back 6.
7. 8. 9.
101/4 53/4
12 41/8 63/8
Side Length
Waist to Knee Cap Height Biceps
10.
11.
12.
13:
PATTERN MAKING
INTRODUCION FABRIC TRIMS
COMPONENT NO. OF PIE CE S 2 2 2 2 2 CUTTING MATERIA L F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 Lower bodice (Circular skirt Structure) Cut with face one way
Front bodice
1
1
F1
F2 F1 F2 F3
Back bodice
2 2 2
DEVELOPMENT DEVELOPMENT
CMT
Shoulder strip sleeve
2 2 2
Cut with face one way Cut with face either way
F2 F2 F3
F4
FRONT
BACK
OPERATION BREAKDOWN
INTRODUCION FABRIC
UPPER BODICE
LOWER BODICE
SLEEVES
S003 S001
FRONT
BACK
S017 S002
S004
S008
S011
S018
S005
S009 S012
S019
TRIMS
S006 S010 S013 S020
S014
S021
S023
S015
S022
DEVELOPMENT
S024 S016
CMT
S025
S026
OPERATION NO.
INTRODUCION FABRIC
DESCPITION
Pico F2 hemline
SEAM M/C
Pico SNLS
S001
S002
Pico
Pico
SNLS
SNLS
TRIMS
S003 S004
S005
DEVELOPMENT
CMT
SNLS
SNLS
OPERATION NO.
INTRODUCION FABRIC TRIMS
DESCPITION
Stitch the neckline sandwiching the spaghetti strip(F1,F2,embroidere d lace, fused edge lace) Turn and press from back Attach F3, F1 and F2 around the back neckline for both back pieces Turn and press to finish neckline Attach zipper
SEAM M/C
Plain seam SNLS
S006
S007 S008 S009 S010
SNLS SNLS
DEVELOPMENT
CMT
DESCPITION
SEAM M/C
Plain seam Turn n stitch Plain seam Plain seam Plain seam SNLS SNLS SNLS
OPERATION NO.
S011
INTRODUCION FABRIC TRIMS
S012
S013
S014
S015 S016
SNLS
DEVELOPMENT
CMT
Attach five layers with a securing stitch so that they are together
SNLS
Plain seam
SNLS
OPERATION NO.
INTRODUCION
DESCPITION
Pico at sleeve hem with F2 and F3 together and a plastic wire inserted Pico shoulder part of raglan sleeve with both F2 and F3 intact
SEAM M/C
Plain seam Pico SNLS
S017
FABRIC TRIMS
SNLS
S018 S019
Plain seam
Plain seam Plain seam
SNLS
SNLS
DEVELOPMENT
CMT
S020
S021
SNLS
OPERATION NO.
INTRODUCION FABRIC TRIMS
DESCPITION
Attach ruffles of F4 to sleeves of F2 and F3 Attach sleeve with front and back Stitch side seam with ribbons inserted Attach lower part and bodice together Over lock waist round
SEAM
Plain seam Pico Plain seam Plain seam Overlock
M/C
SNLS SNLS SNLS
S022
S023
S024
S025 S026
SNLS
DEVELOPMENT
CMT
O/V mc
1 = Plain Seam Stitch Type=301 2 = Overedge Stitch (PICO) with insertion of plastic wire
1 1
2 2 1 1
1 2
DEVELOPMENT DEVELOPMENT
1
CMT
2 2
2 2 1 1
1 2
DEVELOPMENT DEVELOPMENT
1
CMT
2 2
ILLUSTRATED DIAGRAM
INTRODUCION FABRIC TRIMS MEASUREMENT MEASUREMENT SPEC SHEET SHEET SPEC FLOW PROCESS CHART
STITCH TYPE=301
PLAIN SEAM
DEVELOPMENT DEVELOPMENT
CMT
GATHERING
ZIPPER ATTACHMENT
DESCRIPTION COST
(in INR) 100% cotton, 38 100% polyester, 40 100% polyester, 40 100% polyester, 40 Mesh, 100% Nylon, 36 25.00 36.00 220.00
Fabric 1
MATERIAL COST
Fabric 2 Fabric 3
Fabric 4
62.50
DEVELOPMENT
CMT CMT
Fabric 5
26.25
ITEM
Embroidere
d Lace
DESCRIPTION
100% Nylon, 6
COST
(in INR)
20.00
MATERIAL COST
100% Nylon, 1 100% Nylon, 1 Poly cotton, 2 ply, Z-twist Plastic, diameter
20.00 15.00
DEVELOPMENT
CMT CMT
9.00
Sequins
1.20
ITEM
Zipper
DESCRIPTION
9 regular plastic zipper
satin ribbon Woven taffeta
COST
(in INR)
10.00
2.00 -
MATERIAL COST
Stationery
50.50
DEVELOPMENT
TOTAL
CMT CMT
497.45
OPERATION
Pattern Making
TIME
(in hours)
COST
(in INR)
4
2 3
60.00
24.00 70.00 30.60 1.80 140.00
PRODUCTION CHARGES
DEVELOPMENT
Overhead
CMT CMT
TOTAL
326.40
823.85 INR
DEVELOPMENT
CMT CMT
82.39 INR
Mass Manufactured
Company : Angelguard International Location : Chennai, Tamil Nadu Quoted Price : Rs. 611.00
Company : Fairchild Industries Location : New Delhi Quoted Price : Rs. 649.00
DEVELOPMENT
CMT CMT
CHALLENGES ENCOUNTERED
Sourcing of fabric Marking the pattern on the glass tissue fabrics
CHALLENGES ENCOUNTERED
SEWING CHALLENGES
Even distribution of ruffles on the sleeves Occurrence of unwanted gathers and puckering while stitching the different layers
CONCLUSION
The subject of Product Analysis & Development has
Imparted the hands on experience of analyzing a product in the market and to develop it in its
original form keeping in mind the various parameters.
-Quality Control of Raw Material and Garment by using correct and effective
information -Ability to develop and interpret Specification Sheets and working on patterns Construction Details with them. -Quality Control of Garment by using correct and effective information on Patterns and Construction -Ability to source or develop the Product with
THANK YOU