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CUTTING
TICKETING
BUNDLING
INSPECTION
REPLACEMENT OF CUT PARTS (IF DEFECTIVE)
Cutting is the process of separating the garment parts from the body of the fabric lay. When cutting multiple layers of fabric, several issues of accuracy and quality must be addressed. During the cutting process, the accuracy of the cut parts in relation to the original pattern is subject to the stability of the fabric, the movement of the fabric during cutting, the vertical accuracy of the cutting edge as it cuts through the cloth, the quality of the cut edge (clean cut without fraying, flagging or singing), and the accurate inclusion of sewing marks such as notches in the cut edge, and drill
CUTTING.
Inspection
Inspection on the bundled garments is done by the cuttingroom quality control manager who checks the bundles for bundle ticket descriptions, correct sequence of ply numbers, presence of all parts etc. as mentioned in the format. The inspection also checks for the pieces w.r.t. the shade matching, notch positioning, etc. The cut bundles are then issued to the sewing line with details of the bundles issued like bundle no, size, no of pieces etc.
Asymmetric Garments
Asymmetric garments are defined as having left and right patterns that are different shapes or different parts. Asymmetric garments require all the patterns, both left and right be cut together as they differ. This means that all the patterns must be placed in the marker, and all the patterns must be cut individually, This is known as a Open Marker for flat, Open and rolled fabric.
4 types of fabrics
4 types of fabrics
4 types of fabrics
4 types of fabrics
Fabric is flat open with the face to the inside of the roll
a. Flat, open and rolled is the most common preparation. It is utilized for most woven fabrics prepared for factory production. The fabric is rolled on a hard cardboard tube (or plastic tube) where the selvedges are at opposite ends of the tube. The fabric is usually rolled with the technical face to the inside of the roll. Roll lengths on each tube can reach 1,200 yards on a single roll, but are more often in the 150 yard range, depending on the weight of the roll.
b. Folded and Rolled is a put-up that allows the utilization of a single center fold in the length of the goods. In this preparation, the fabric selvedges are superimposed one over the other. This preparation is utilized with very wide fabrics that cannot be processed by a manufacturer who does not have wide enough cutting tables. Folded and rolled fabric orients the technical face of the fabric inside the folded surfaces, so they are not visible on the surface of the spread.
d. Book Fold is the most relaxed put up. Fabric is laid back and forth in a carton. Book Fold is used for delicate fabrics to minimize the stress on the fabric.
MARKER TYPES:
1. Mixed marker
A marker in which all the pattern pieces of a style are utilized. There is no restriction on where they can be placed, as long as they are placed on-grain.
2. Open marker
A marker in which all the pattern pieces of a style are utilized as pairs.(all the left and right pattern pieces). The Open marker patterns are placed in pairs (left and right of the same size) to ensure that if there are shade differences in the length of the goods, parts of the garment that are seen side by side will appear with the same shade. Open marker is used on fabric that is spread open and face up on the table. For most woven fabrics, and flat open knits, open markers offer the second best utilization of fabric.
3. Closed marker
Closed marker is used under special circumstances. As only one half of the pattern set is used, the fabric spread on the table is folded in its length and is oriented face to face. After cutting, any one pattern piece would yield the left and right piece of the garment when choosing a pair of consecutive plies. Can produce on fold patterns
4. Closed-on-open
A marker with half of a set of patterns for each garment, placed on open fabric. Every part of the garment must have corresponding left and right patterns, or blocking and relaying is required. This mode is intended for fabric spread face to face. Styles with one-piece parts like a one-piece back panel can not be made using a closed-on-open marker without blocking and re-laying. For any one part in the marker, a pair of consecutive plies of fabric (spread face to face) produce the left and right pieces of the garment. Fabric dyeing must be consistent to use this method, as garments will be constructed of two consecutive plies of fabric.
6.Section Marker
Single Section Marker. When the patterns of all the different sizes are scattered throughout the full length of the marker (placed wherever they fit the best), the marker is known as non-sectional or single section marker. Markers with more than one section, known as section markers are utilized when the order ratios are unknown in advance. The section marker facilitates producing different order ratios using the same marker through step spreading. Although at the lowest efficiency, single-section markers permit total flexibility
MARKER MODES
This mode is necessary for fabrics that are asymmetric.The Nap/One/ Way marker is the highest quality but least efficient of the three nap directions for a marker.
The patterns may be oriented either down or up, placed wherever they fit best, only making sure that the patterns are on-grain. The Nap/ Either/ Way marker is usually the most efficient mode yielding the highest fabric utilization. This Mode assumes consistent (dye) color in the length and width of the goods. Nap/ Either/ Way also requires the fabric be symmetric.
This method is yields moderately good fabric utilization, and good quality.
Fabric is flat open with the face to the inside of the roll
Spreading starts .Fabric is cut at the far end, rotated 180 degrees, then spread to the beginning. process is repeated.
Spreading starts .Fabric is cut at the far end, the roll is brought to the beginning of the table, rotated 180 degrees, then spread to the far end againprocess is repeated.
Zigzag spread
Fabric is flat open with the face to the inside of the roll
Folded fabric spreading starts at one end of the table. Fabric is cut at the far end, then returned to the beginning. Then the process is repeated
Hand Shears
Hand Shears are used when cutting samples and limited quantities of garments. The cutter must control the shears keeping the cut edge layer adds to the difficulty of accurate cutting, the patterns are often traced in tailors chalk on the top layer of fabric. Hand shears are limited to the cutters physical strength, but usually no more than two layers of fabric due to the loss of accuracy as the shears lifts the fabric off the cutting table. This method is slow and unproductive.
Short Knife
The Short Knife is an alternate method to hand shears. The short knife slices through the fabric, scoring the table in the process much the same way as slicing vegetables on a cutting board. Fabrics cut this way must be heavily weighted, as the short knife pushes as it cuts through the fabric, distorting multiple layers of fabric. Ten to twelve layers of fabric may be accurately cut this way. The short knife is also used for sloping on dress shirts and other customized apparel where only a few layers of fabric are being cut at one time.
blade that cuts cleanly through fabric much the same way that a circular wood saw cuts through wood. Additional advantage of the round knife are that it can cut without pushing the lay as it cuts, facilitating cutting on slippery fabrics. Continuously slicing downward, it also makes cutting very dense fabrics easier. The disadvantage of the round knife is that at the cutting edge, the blade is not vertical. Therefore, cutting accuracy is sacrificed as the lay get higher.
Auxiliary Devices
Notchers: are either manual or electric machines used to make notches in the edge of a cut bundle. Unless cutting notches while cutting with the up and down knife, notchers are necessary for creating notches. Drillers: Cloth Drills are used when a mark is needed inside the body of a part to indicate the point of a dart, location of a
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