Textile Yarns

Process of Yarn Manufacturing Classification of Yarns Yarn Numbering Click to edit Master subtitle style Sewing Threads

Prepared by P.Lakshmana kanth Senior Faculty IFTK

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Process of Yarn Formation

Yarn is continuous strand which is made up of filaments or fibers. It is used to make fabric/textiles of different kinds. Yarn formation methods were originally developed for spinning of natural fibers including cotton, linen, wool and silk. Yarn is defined by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) as A generic term for a continuous strand of textile fiber, filament, or material suitable for knitting, weaving to form a textile fabric. Yarn occurs in the following forms.

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Yarn forms

A number of fibers twisted together. A number of filaments laid together without twist. A number of filaments laid together with more or less twist. A single mono filament. e.g. Silk

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Yarn Manufacturing System

Yarn is defined as a linear assemblage of the fibers twisted together. The process of making the yarn from a textile fiber is called Spinning. Spinning is the art of producing continuous, twisted Strands, of a desire size, from fibrous materials. In a broad sense, the term is used to include all the operations through which cotton fibers are passed until they become yarn. Spinning includes all the processes required 5/22/12 to prepare and clean the fibers from the

Process of Yarn Manufacturing

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The basic process sequence involved in the manufacturing of the cotton yarn is shown above in the chart. Some of the process like combing can be skipped when some low quality yarn is required. The final end product of the spinning mill will be yarn which can be delivered in different forms of packages like cones, cheeses, hanks etc. The package may be selected according to the convenience and for easy transportation as the weaving or knitting mill will be away from the spinning mill in normal. 5/22/12

Bale Opener

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Bale Opener

The cotton process.

tufts

are

opened

in

this

As the cotton arrives in an extremely compressed condition the first operation is to loosen the matted fibers The cotton fiber is loosened by means of rotating spiked rollers of the bale opener.

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Mixing

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Mixing

This is a process of mixing the same/different category of fibers to get desired properties and cost effectiveness. Mixing is done after the study of the essential properties of fiber like staple length, Tensile strength, fineness, uniformity etc.
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Blow room

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Blow room

In this process the cleaning and opening of the cotton is done by beaters and openers. The foreign materials like dust particles, seeds of cotton and other impurities are partially removed in this process. The cotton tufts are opened and cleaned in this process and the 5/22/12 cotton lap is made out.

Carding

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Carding

Carding is the heart of spinning in this process the minute impurities like small seed particles, immature fibers etc. are removed. The straightening and aligning of fibers are done in this process. In carding the Blow room lap is attenuated to the card sliver.
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Drawing

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Drawing

Through drafting fibers get paralleled Up to Eight Carded Slivers are fed into the Draw-Frame and they are stretched/Straightened and made into a single sliver. Also fiber blending can be done at this stage.

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Simplex (Speed Frame)

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Simplex (Roving)

Further drafting is done here to get the fibers more aligned/paralleled. The Sliver from Draw-Frame is thicker and will be difficult to be fed into the Ring-frame as is, hence here the Slivers are stretched and were made thinner by Drafting and mild twisting (so as to strengthen the Roving). The End-Product from the Simplex is 5/22/12 called as Roving

Ring Spinning

The roving is fed into the Ring-frame and is made into yarn by further Drafting & Twisting. Basic Functions of Ring Frame are to draft the roving until the required fineness is achieved To impart strength to the fiber, by inserting twist.
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Depending

upon

the

yarn

count

Ring Spinning

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Lap Formation - Diagram

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Sliver FormationDiagram

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Roving Formation Diagram

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Spinning Ring Frame (Yarn Formation) - Diagram

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Yarn Twist

When fibers are twisted to make a yarn, they are twisted to the right or left. This twisting is called S or Z twist. Most yarns are made with a Z twist. The direction of twist does not usually affect the characteristics of the yarn or fabric.

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Twist per Inch (TPI)

The number of twists per inch can, in plied yarns, be determined by counting the number of bumps in one inch, and divide by the number of singles (the strands plied together to make the yarn).

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Amount of Twist

Twist is needed in yarn to hold the fibers together, and is added in both the spinning and plying processes. The amount of twist varies on the fiber, thickness of yarn, preparation of fiber, manner of spinning, and the desired result. Fine wool and silk generally use more twist than coarse wool, short staples more than long, thin more than thick, 5/22/12 and short drawn more than long

Generally, higher twist creates yarns that are

Stronger More firm Smaller in Diameter Smoother Resistant to snagging and abrasion Resilient Good Conductors of heat 5/22/12

Generally, lower twist creates yarns that are

Weaker Softer Larger in Diameter Fuzzy Prone to Snag & abrade Crush Easily Resistant to heat transfer.
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Structure of Textile Yarns

Basically there are three types of yarn. They are

(1) Spun yarn, (2) Filament yarn & (3) Textured Yarn
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pun Yarns

Spun yarn is made by twisting or otherwise bonding staple fibers together to make a cohesive thread. Twisting fibers into yarn in the process called spinning. Spinning was one of the very first processes to be industrialized. Spun yarns may contain a single type of fiber, or be a blend of various types. Combining synthetic fibers (which can have high strength, luster, and fire retardant qualities) with natural fibers (which have good water absorbency and skin comforting qualities) is very common. The 5/22/12 most widely used blends are cotton-polyester

Yarns are made up of a number of plies, each ply being a single spun yarn. These single plies of yarn are twisted together (plied) in the opposite direction to make a thicker yarn. Depending on the direction of this final twist, the yarn will be known as s-twist or z-twist. For a single ply, the direction of the final twist is the same as its original twist.

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Filament Yarns & Textured Yarns

Filament yarn consists of filament fibers (very long continuous fibers) either twisted together or only grouped together. Thicker monofilaments are typically used for industrial purposes rather than fabric production or decoration. Silk is a natural filament, and synthetic filament yarns are used to produce silk-like effects. Textured Yarns - Texturized yarns are 5/22/12 made by a process of air texturizing which

Classification of Yarns

Classification of yarns can be done (1) Based strands & on the number of

(2) Based on the end use

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Classification of yarns based on number of Strands

Based on the number of strands yarns can be classified into - Single Yarns - Ply Yarns - Cord Yarns - Textured Yarns - Metallic Yarns

- Stretch Yarns 5/22/12

Single Yarns

A yarn which is smooth and uniform and evenly twisted is called a simple single yarn. It is commonly used for making fabric like poplin and cambric. A simple single yarn is an assemblage of fibres evenly twisted together.

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Ply Yarns

A Simple Ply yarn is made of two or more singles evenly twisted together. If the ply has two singles it is called a 2-ply and so on. This type of yarn is found in a 2 by 2 rubia fabric. It has 2 ply yarns in both directions of the fabric. Similarly 3 Ply and 4 ply yarns are available.

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Cord Yarns

A simple cord yarn is made of two or more ply yarns twisted together. To make a cord yarns, take two or more ply yarns and twist it together

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Complex / Novelty Yarns

Complex yarns are the uneven yarns which may be thick and thin or have curls, loops, twists and even differently coloured areas along their length. Due to this fancy look of the yarns they are used to add interesting effects in fabrics. Like simple yarns, the complex yarns may also be single or ply. A single complex yarn is usually unevenly twisted to make it thick and thin in places. This is the type of yarn which is found in 5/22/12

S.No 01

Types of Complex / Novelty Yarns

Figure Type of Yarn SLUB yarn with thick and thin places SPIRA or GIMP- combination of soft, thick yarns twisted with fine, hard yarns BOUCLE- two different yarns are fed into the loom at different speeds for a varied effect LOOP stiff fibres form loops which spring out of the core yarn

02

03

04

05 06

07

SNARL very highly twisted yarn KNOP ground yarn is held under tension as knops are built up a fast speed CHENILLE a woven cut fabric yarn

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Textured Yarns

When you unravel a sweater, you find that the yarn which was straight when you knitted has now become curly. This yarn can now be called a textured yarn. Texturizing is a treatment usually given to a manmade filament, after which it becomes curly or acquires some forms of loops, coils or crimp.

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Different types of textured Effect is shown below

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Metallic Yarns

Metalized forms.

yarns

can

take

many

Some examples: Metal wire combined with textile. Metalized strip, consisting of a core of metal foil or of plastic (often polyester) film coated with metal dust, sandwiched by means of adhesive between two layers of plastic film (e.g., Lurex). Gimped (supported) yarn,

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Stretch Yarns

Stretch yarns are frequently continuous-filament man-made yarns that are very tightly twisted, heatset, and then untwisted, producing a spiral crimp giving a springy character. Although bulk is imparted in the process, a very high amount of twist is required to produce yarn that has not only bulk, but also stretch. 5/22/12

Yarn Numbering

Count: Yarn number varies and it differs according to the kind of fibre. Many weaving yarns and sewing thread are numbered by the cotton system (count). Spun yarn size is referred to as number and is expressed in terms of length per unit of weight. It is an indirect system; the finer the yarn, 5/22/12 larger the number. the

Denier

The size of filament yarns is determined as denier, which is expressed in terms of weight per unit of length. If 9000 metes of yarn weigh 1 gram, it is then 1 denier. In this system, the unit of length remains constant. The finer the yarn, the smaller is the number. Denier = weight of yarn in gms/ 9000 meters 1 denier - 9,000 meters weigh 1 gram i.e, 5/22/12

Tex System

The International Organization for Standardization has adopted the Tex system, which determines yarn count or number in the same way for all fibre yarns and uses metric units (weight in grams of 1 thousands meters of yarn Tex = weight in gms / 1000 meters of yarn
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Sewing Threads

The seam performances of the garment are influenced by sewing thread and sewing techniques and the end use desired. These yarns are differing from other threads. We are taking more care to construct the sewing thread, because sewing threads are having some special character. Almost all type fibres can be used as

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Sewing thread are special kinds of yarns. They are engineered and designed to pass through a sewing machine rapidly. To form a stitch efficiently and to function while in a sewn products without breaking or becoming distorted for at least the useful life of the product.

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Classification of Sewing Threads

Sewing Threads

Spun
Cotton Glazed Soft Mercerized

Core Spun

Continuous Filament

Cotton Wrapped core polyester

Silk
Monofilament - Nylon - Polyester

Linen

Polyest er
Blended
Polyester / Cotton Polyester / Viscose

Polyest er wrappe d Core Cotton

Multi filament - Bonded - False twisted - Air jet texturized

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Properties of Sewing Threads

The performance of textile fabrics and clothing is strongly influenced by the properties of the yarns from which they are made. Sewing threads require certain yarn properties.

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Regularity

Strength

Smooth fabrics should be sewn only with very regular yarns. In spun yarns, this is achieved by repeated doubling and drafting, and by combing out the short fibers. Yarn strength depends on the quality of the fibres, the yarn regularity and the twist. Folding increases the strength.

Hardness/Tw The twist density affects the hardness of a yarn ist and hence the handle and the appearance of textiles. Extensibility/ Extensibility and elasticity are very important Elasticity during yarn processing and utilization. They are determined mainly by the fibre type and the spinning system.
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