INFLUENE ETNICE RUSETI N MOD

MOLDOVAN OANA IULIA

DESIGN VESTIMENTAR ANUL II PROF. BRAD CRISTINA

Uneori mai subtil, alteori mai accentuat, Rusia a reprezentat dintotdeauna un izvor de inspiraie la care moda se ntoarce mereu pentru o not de originalitate i n dorina de a cuceri noi piee cu ceva diferit. Fiecare nou interpretare servete drept testament att talentului designerului ct i abundenei i varietii culturii ruseti. Coleciile caselor de mod acoper fiecare ntr o manier proprie elementele specific ruseti, de la opulena vestimentaiei arilor i arinelor, uniformele cazacilor, eroinele romanelor ruseti !"ara din #$r. %ivago# si &nna 'arenina( i pn la bogia de culori i imprimeuri regsite n portul tradiional. )ainele sunt croite din tesaturi bogate !catifea, brocart(, brodate, cu insertii sau aplicatii de dantela sau blana. *altoanele in stil militar rusesc, inc+ise la , randuri de nasturi, si cele de inspiratie cazaca apar in multe dintre colectii. Cu insertii de blana sau bordate, acestea au diferite lungimi !lungi pana in pamant, pana la -umatatea gambei sau pana la genunc+i,( si apar in multe versiuni . de la militar, sever, lung si drept, la feminin, cambrat pe talie, cu forme rotun-ite. /si fac aparitia si cizme inalte bordate cu blana, caciuli inalte, gulere si cape de blana. *iesele vestimentare etnice ruseti includ0 'aftan ul

)ain brbteasc lung, cu mneci /n Russia t+e 1ord #2aftan# is used for anot+er t3pe of clot+ing0 a 2ind of a man4s long suit 1it+ tig+t sleeves. 53 t+e 67t+ centur3, Russian 2aftans 1ere t+e most 1idel3 spread t3pe of outer clot+ing among peasants and merc+ants. Currentl3 t+e3 are used as a ritual religious clot+ing b3 t+e most conservative sect of 8ld 5elievers. 'osovorot2a Us+an2a 9arafan 'o2os+ni2

Cazacii0 5ur2a !c(

2

*apa+a

/ar ca i nclminte0 "apti :alen2i

Stilul

rusesc

. La Just Cavalli si Kenzo, manechine imbracate in rochii cu imprimeuri de matrioshka au pasit alaturi de paltoane inspirate din garderoba tzarilor Romanov; la Oscar de la Renta, modelele de inspiratie folclorica au avut borduri de blana. Fustele dirndl fuste largi, cu snur in talie! din colectia lui "athe# $illiamson au amestecat culori stralucitoare si forme neasteptate.

Stilul

militar

%cest stil a devenit e&trem de popular in aceasta vara, iar tendinta din toamna il va relua, adaugandu'i cateva elemente. (aina de inspiratie militara nu trebuie sa iti lipseasca din dulap. %ceasta reinnoire are la baza hainele militare si in special uniformele ofiterilor din perioada Cazacilor rusi. )esignerii si'au adus aminte de uniformele husarilor din perioada Regentei si de hainele rosii ale tobosarilor din parazile militare, apoi le'au transpus in haine de toate lungimile, de la sold pana la glezna. *acourile scurtate pana in talie sau ceva mai lungi, pana la sold, sunt incarcate de snururi, impletituri, mansete, trese si epoleti. %ceste garnituri pot fi metalice sau din aceeasi culoare cu haina, in nuante apropiate sau contrastante, dar toate incapsuleaza acest stil.

The Russian L ! " Russe L !s #$$%&#$$'

P( )a)*+ ,he ne-, . s, i./ (,an, s,+*in0 * ! 1 au,u.n 2in,e( #$$%&#$$' is ,he Russian L ! 2hi3h 2i** sui, .an+ a0e 0( u/s. &lso called t+e Russe it +as several strands from t+e embroider3 of 9lavonic *easants, t+e ornament of t+e marc+ing Cossac2 or )ussar to t+e aloofness of a Romanov ;sarina or m3sterious "ara of $r. <+ivago. =ac+ t+eme from Russe "u>e 5aro?ue to Revolutionar3 pa3s +omage to Russian +eritage. /mperial Russia of 3ester3ear 1it+ its crisp militar3 lines 1ill be contrasted against traditional embroidered 1ool peasant st3le inspired clot+ing of t+e Russian 9teppes. E./i(e *ine 4(esses a(e !in4 an4 1*a,,e(in0 , ,h se 2i,h ,hi3!e( 2ais,*ines 4(a2in0 a,,en,i n , 4e3 (a,e4 s*ee5e6 ne3! an4 he.*ines. Ne2 5 *u.e s!i(,s se, n a + !e a(e 1(e7uen,*+ .a4e u/ in 5e*5e, 2i,h *ush )a( 7ue )( 3a4e 1a)(i3 an4 e.)e**ish.en, )e+ n4 B h s,+*e. This is )es, ,ea.e4 2i,h e+e*e, *a3e u/ ( 1u( ,(i..e4 ) ,s a** 3a/,u(in0 ,he s/i(i, 1 ,his ne2es, 1ashi n ,(en4. R )e(, Ca5a**i 4 es ,his * ! (ea**+ )eau,i1u**+.
4

Russian st3le double breasted and militar3 Cossac2 coats feature strongl3 as does t+e late =d1ardian !c676@ 6A( raised 1aist empire loo2 from $octor <+ivago. Fur is a big trimming feature and coats are long, calf and 2nee lengt+, so ta2e 3our pic2. ;+e st3ling is from militar3 severe long and straig+t revolutionar3 to softer and more feminine 1aist nipping Cossac2 inspired versions. Le,s h /e i,8s 3hi** en u0h , 2(a/ + u( hai( u/ 2i,h an e-,(a5a0an, 1u( C ssa3! ha, an4 /ai( i, 2i,h ,he 3 ((e3, ) ,s an4 ,he Russian * ! is ins,an,*+ + u(s. /nspiration 1as dra1n from t+e romantic era of t+e Russian Revolution, from tsarinas and bo+emians. $ecorative embroider3 and lus+ fur trims evo2ed passion and pleasure in Roberto CavalliBs opulent d3ed fo> trimmed brocade -ac2et. Romantic ruffles and frills also give a bo+emian notion to t+is seasonBs fur -ac2ets, as in Carc %acobsB min2 collared, tiered and ruffled & line blac2 2ara2ul coat. ;+ere 1as a dramatic turn to1ards dar2ness t+is season 1it+ blac2 and 1+ite emerging as a ma-or stor3. /n Cilan, R )e(, Ca5a**i9s s*i. )*a3! 3( 3 4i*e 3 a, 2i,h )*a3! 1 - ) (4e( and trim 1as a stud3 in subtle opulence 1+ile at $olce D Eabbana a blac2 2ara2ul blazer made a more dramatic statement. &s a counter point to blac2, 1+ite and ot+er natural s+ades or fur returned to t+e run1a3s . in Cilan, a collarless 2nee lengt+ l3n> coat 1it+ a 2ara2ul trim dressed -eans at $olce D Eabbana 1+ile in *aris at %ean *aul Eaultier a 1+ite lamb 2imono -ac2et 1as edged in badger. $esigners set t+e s+ape of fas+ion on a ne1 pat+ t+is season. "ean, linear, unembellis+ed s+apes in s+ort +aired and s+eared fur offered a modern alternative to t+e long +aired fuller, more decorative sil+ouette. &t t+e opposite end of t+e spectrum, a rounder, more voluptuous direction inspired b3 67A@Bs and F@Bs couture made a s+apel3 statement for autumn. Ge1 cuts and treatments lent controlled volume and softness to C+ado Ralp+ RucciBs lus+ bias cut Russian sable coat and "anvinBs sumptuous fa1n min2 trenc+ coat.
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Si:e; 6,@>6,@ cm !AJ>AJ inc+es( ;raditional 8renburg s+a1ls are one of t+e best, also called 4pautin2a4, 1+ic+ means 4cob1eb s+a1ls4. 8ur finel3 2nit lace s+a1ls 1+ic+ +ave been created in t+e 8renburg region for over K@@ 3ears. ;+e3 are often called #1edding ring s+a1ls,# because, alt+oug+ t+e s+a1ls are ?uite large, a s+a1l 2nit in t+e traditional fas+ion can be pulled t+roug+ a 1edding ring because t+e 2nitting is so fine. 8renburg s+a1ls are bot+ e>?uisitel3 finel3 patterned and 2nitted using ultra fine 3arn. ;+e original 3arn comes from Ural goats 1+o +ave t+e e>ceptionall3 soft do1n

Russian designers get inspired b3 mot+erland &pril @7, ,@66 6,0@@ &C 53 &mie Ferris Rotman, Gastassia &stras+eus2a3a

C89C8L0 RussiaBs st3le gurus +ave turned to t+e mot+erland for inspiration at t+e capitalBs fas+ion 1ee2s, celebrating et+nicities and returning to a pre 9oviet era of elegance. Flo1ing felt coats, t+e brig+t blues and +ot pin2s of fol2loric s+a1ls and cloa2s reminiscent of tsarist cavalr3men dominated do3en of fas+ion 9lava <aitsevBs s+o1 t+is 1ee2. M/ s+o1ed t+e potential Russian fas+ion +as,N said t+e JK 3ear old 9oviet icon, 1+o continues to dress t+e 1ives of Russian leaders+ip, somet+ing +e +as done since t+e 67J@s. <aitsev said +e 1anted to s+o1 a M+istor3 of RussiaN on t+e cat1al2, beginning 1it+ t+e 1aistcoats and top +ats 1orn b3 67t+ centur3 1riter &le>ander *us+2in, to +eavil3 embroidered floral -ac2ets evo2ing t+e prerevolutionar3 Russian countr3side t+roug+ to modern metallic go1ns. "oose fitting, all fur min2 s+irts and trousers evo2ed RussiaBs tribes scattered across t+e &rctic. &not+er Russian establis+ment, :alentin Oudas+2in, 1+ose bouti?ues line Cosco1Bs multilaned roads, stra3ed from +is usual violet and blac2 go1ns and also loo2ed to1ard +ome turf for +is s+o1. $ancers dressed in traditional Caucasus outfits leapt upon t+e cat1al2 to perform t+e lezgin2a dance from RussiaBs Gort+ Caucasus. Codels t+en clad in s+agg3 ramBs 1ool +ats and an2le lengt+ coats traditionall3 1orn b3 some in t+e Gort+ Caucasus strutted across t+e run1a3. MRussian design is moving to1ard t+e nationalistic, becoming closer to st3les 1e can identif3 1it+ at +ome,N said :i2toria 9lez2o, general director of Russian bouti?ue c+ain Fas+ion Code, 1+ic+ onl3 sells Russian designers. 5ut be+ind t+e tributes to t+eir landscapes, t+ere 1as lament for a stagnant industr3 1+ic+ limps be+ind =uropean counterparts suc+ as Cilan or *aris. MLe +ave incredible talents 1+o could be on t+e level of ot+er countries, but our state does not realize t+is 3et,N <aitsev told Reuters. M/t is a traged3,N +e said as models 1earing prints similar to Russian lac?uered bo>es +overed around +im.

<aitsev said t+ere 1as not enoug+ funding or encouragement for ne1 designers to emerge, a sentiment ec+oed b3 ambitious 3oung designers tr3ing to brea2 into t+e mar2et. MRussia is more &sian t+an =uropean. ;+ere is an organization issue +ere, and t+is is t+e main barrier for 3oung designers,N said Cuscovite Ci2+ail :ilc+u2, ,A. Read more0 +ttp0II111.dail3star.com.lbI&prI@7IRussian designers get inspired b3 mot+erland.as+>Pi>zz627d2aFg" !;+e $ail3 9tar 00 "ebanon Ge1s 00 +ttp0II111.dail3star.com.lb(