Wild

members only CARD MAGAZINE

TM

AUTUMN 2016
BEST
corporate
publication

2015
SA PUBLICATION FORUM

www.wildcard.co.za
ROAD TRIP
Swartberg &
Gamkaberg
More remote
than you think

Join the
Village People
– in a Shangaan festival
– in traditional Basotho huts

Karoo National park

What about
the lions?

Predators
Northern Kruger

R34.90 Tracking wild dogs

12016
Hot spot! Pafuri Border Camp
4x4: Alone in the bundu | Magical Mushrooms
9 771993 790001
Camping at De Hoop | Short walks in Augrabies explore | conserve | enjoy
 Conserve. Explore. Experience
SPLAS
THIS SU
Discover all that makes the season special at CapeNature
reserves. Whether you are in search of adventure or
tranquillity, a physical challenge or a peaceful getaway,
CapeNature reserves are the ideal destination to explore the
great outdoors. And when you really have to go inside, many
of our overnight spots have a cosy fireplace where you can
unwind and keep warm. Come and experience the beauty of
the wilds. It’ll change the way you think about winter.

SPLASH OUT
SPLASH
THISOUT
SUMMER!
THIS SUMMER!

A warm
winter welcome
It’s time to have some fun in the sun. Hike or m
pools, kayak down winding rivers, or simp

Whether it is an adventure or tranquillity, a phys

something for everyone. Camp or stay at you
cottages

Campsites
From only R200
per site per 6 persons sharing
It’s time to have some fun in the sun. Hike or mountain bike along scenic trails, swim in pristine natural
pools, kayak down winding rivers, or simply sit down, soak up the sun and enjoy the wildlife.

Whether it is an adventure or tranquillity, a physical challenge or a peaceful getaway, CapeNature offers

CONTACT US & BOOK TODAY
It’s time
something for everyone. Camp to or
have
stay some
at your fun in the
choice sun. Hikebush
of eco-cabins, or mountain
lodges and bike along scenic trails, swim in pristine natural
comfortable
pools, kayak down
cottages, allwinding rivers, or simply sit down, soak up the sun and enjoy the wildlife.
self-catering.

Whether it is an adventure or tranquillity, a physical challenge or a peaceful getaway, CapeNature offers

Campsites
something for everyone. Camp or stayCottages 021
at your choice of eco-cabins, 483
bush 0190
lodges and comfortable
From only R200 Fromcottages,
only R630all self-catering.
per site per 6 persons sharing per night per 2 persons sharing
reservation.alert@capenature.co.
www.freshba.co.za / FBA3887

www.capenature.co.za
CONTACT US & BOOK TODAY!
Campsites
From only R200
Cottages
Follow us on social media
From only R630
per site per 6 persons sharing per night per 2 persons sharing
021 483 0190 Conserve. Explore. Experience.
* Tarrifs vary amongst reserves and types of accommodation. T’s&C’s a
Please be a responsible traveller, put your campfire out and help prev
reservation.alert@capenature.co.za
www.freshba.co.za / FBA3887

Follow us on social media CONTACT US & BOOK TODAY!

Standard daily conservation fees apply
Free access for Wild Card members
Standard daily conservation fees apply
* Tarrifs vary amongst reserves and types of accommodation. T’s&C’s apply.
FBA3887_Cape Nature Summer Campaign_WILD.indd 1
Freeput
Please be a responsible traveller, access for Wild
021 483 0190
your campfire Card
out and help members
prevent wildfires this summer. Conserve. Explore. Experience.

reservation.alert@capenature.co.za
/ FBA3887

FBA3887_Cape Nature Summer Campaign_WILD.indd 1 2015/10/29 12:14 PM

SH OUT
UMMER! Wild
AUTUMN 2016 Contents

“Gorgeous gorges bisect these mountains

and streams bubble past glens of proteas alive
30
36
with colourful birds.” – Dale Morris

18
76
ountain bike along scenic trails, swim in pristine natural
ly sit down, soak up the sun and enjoy the wildlife.

ical challenge or a peaceful getaway, CapeNature offers

ur choice of eco-cabins, bush lodges and comfortable
, all self-catering.

70
Cottages
From only R630
48
per night per 2 persons sharing

Y!
WILD BITES Parks WILDLIFE
4 Letters Conserve. Explore. Experience.
18 Explore Swartberg 30 Karoo lions
8 Pafuri Border Camp launches Take a 10-day tour through What does the return of the big
.za 10 New Cederberg cottages the untouched Klein Karoo cats mean for the park?
12 Knysna forest self-drive 36 De Hoop camping 48 Tracking wild dogs
14 Augrabies
Standard day walksfees apply
daily conservation
It’s the perfect family holiday: Why northern Kruger should be
Free access for Wild Card members beach, biking and sunset braais on your radar
16 Birding Beat
42 Shangaan festival 56 Music of the Bushveld
African scops owl
apply. Wild joins Kruger’s neighbours A look at the star performers,
93 Get a Wild Card
ent wildfires this summer. in celebrating their cultural ties from song birds to cicadas
94 Map of the Wild parks 76 Basotho village 70 Fynbos birds
96 Competition Discover one of Golden Gate’s Are temperatures rising too fast
Win a stay at De Hoop unique tourist attractions for these habitat specialists?
2015/10/29 12:14 PM

www.wildcard.co.za AUTUMN 2016 WILD 1

Contents
62
Wild AUTUMN 2016

80

86
90
The stinkhorn is
neither creature
nor plant, it’s a
mushroom.
nature photography
62 Mysterious mushrooms 86 Go macro
Wild uncovers the fascinating Get even closer to nature
world of fungi
80 Wetlands in focus Adventure
Why we need to protect this 35 Our off-road picks
ecosystem before it’s too late Pack your gear for five
84 Bushveld gardenia extraordinary 4x4 trails
The sweet scent of evenings in
the bush Kids
90 Dressed for battle COVER IMAGE
These animals come armoured Johannes van niekerk
against enemies
 to experience
Connecting the City to the Bush.
freedom Experience the heart of the African bush with daily direct flights
from Johannesburg and Cape Town to Nelspruit KMIA as well
as the iconic Skukuza Airport, gateway to the Sabi Sand, the
Kruger National Park and the private game lodges. A short
apron transfer connects you onward to the doorstep of your
safari destination on Airlink’s Lodge Link service to the Ulusaba,
Arathusa and Londolozi Airstrips. You also have the freedom
to enjoy a short open safari vehicle transfer from the Ulusaba
and Arathusa Airstrips to adjoining private game lodges in the
reserve. A short air transfer from the lodge airstrips or Skukuza
Airport to Nelspruit KMIA connects you conveniently to
Livingstone (Zambia) and Vilanculos (Mozambique), gateway
to the Bazaruto and Benguerra Islands.

Visit www.flyairlink.com or www.skukuzaairport.com

or contact your Booking Agent.
33319
 INSIDE TRACK
EDITORIAL BOARD
FROM THE EDITOR
Hapiloe sello, SANParks
sheraaz ismail, CapeNature

wild wanderings
jeffrey makwala, Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife
Ray NAGURAN, Msinsi Resorts
ANN REILLY, Swazi Big Game Parks
HEIN GROBLER, Wild Card

Wild card enquiries

0861 GO WILD (46 9453)
wildcard@sanparks.org
International Wild Card members call
+27-12-428-9112

EDITOR Romi Boom | wilded@tipafrica.co.za

DEPUTY EDITOR
Magriet Kruger | magriet@tipafrica.co.za
ART DIRECTOR
Riaan Vermeulen | riaan@tipafrica.co.za
TEXT EDITOR Marion Boddy-Evans
PROOFREADER Margy Beves-Gibson
CONTENT DIRECTOR Igna Schneider
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Joan Kruger
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Petro du Toit
MAGAZINE ENQUIRIES
subs@tipafrica.co.za

I
Touring through
the Kgalagadi
CONTRIBUTORS
Ilse Bigalke, Emma Bryce, Susan Cunningham, Albert
Froneman, Megan Emmett, Jacques Marais, Dale Morris,
Scott Ramsay, Mitch Reardon, Joël Roerig, Ron Swilling, f you had to describe your best holiday in 10 words, which would
Dianne Tipping-Woods, Morgan Trimble, Santi van
Niekerk, Albie Venter, Marion Whitehead you choose?
Photography/art
I suspect most Wild Card members have a similar notion of a great
Shaen Adey, Romi Boom, Andre Botha, Stephen trip. Nature. Outdoors. Wilderness. Wildlife. Safari. Ecotourism. Ex-
Cunliffe, Albert Froneman, Davide Gaglio, iStockphoto,
Matthew Lewis, Jacques Marais, Mario Moreno, Dale
plore. Conservation. Adventure. Journey.
Morris, Scott Ramsay, Daleen Roodt, Shutterstock, Karin Anyone with wanderlust will find plenty of inspiration in this autumn
Schermbruker, Ron Swilling, Dianne Tipping-Woods,
Albie Venter, Riaan Vermeulen, Marion Whitehead
issue of Wild. Odds are you’ll itch to start packing once you’ve read our
travelogue about a jaunt into the Swartberg and Gamkaberg Nature
Reserves. Our camping story about a family’s fun at De Hoop has me yearning to
pitch my tent and, with a roundup of unusual 4x4 trails, I’m eyeing the calendar.
Normally I don’t need half an excuse to visit the far north of Kruger, but now
PUBLISHED BY I’ve got two very good reasons. There’s a new rest camp called Pafuri Border and
Tip Africa Publishing
PO Box 13022, Woodstock, 7915
it’s been proven there are wild dogs (plus more than enough lions) in that neck of
T: (+27) 021-447-6094 the woods.
F: (+27) 021-447-0312 Respect for different cultures, as well as the environment, is an integral part
wilded@tipafrica.co.za of responsible tourism. In the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area
Editorial queries 021-448-5425 we joined in the celebrations of a Shangaan Cultural Festival (page 42) and
BUSINESS Jaco Scholtz in Golden Gate Highlands National Park, we treated ourselves to a stay in a
jaco@tipafrica.co.za | C: 083-303-0453 traditional Basotho hut (page 76).
ADVERTISING Michael Strange If you’ve decided to pack up and go wild, bear in mind there’s new
michaelstrange@jbmediaconnection.co.za accommodation at Algeria in the Cederberg and a new self-drive route through
T: 011-467-0513/0415 the Knysna forest. Do keep your eyes peeled for fabulous fungi, from moist coastal
PUBLISHER Theo Pauw zones to the arid Kalahari and the Bushveld. Your mushroom sightings can become
theo@tipafrica.co.za | C: 082-558-5730 part of a citizen science project.
Reproduction Resolution Colour
Whether you consider yourself a travel junkie, a pilgrim or a wayfarer,
Printing Shereno Printers anticipation is everything. Now go hit the road less travelled!

Printed on Neo Starr MATT

WILD CARD PARTNERS

Wild® magazine and Wild Card® are registered trademarks of SANParks.

Opinions expressed in this magazine do not reflect those of the Wild Card
or any of the Wild Card programme partners. Every effort has been made
to ensure accuracy, but Wild magazine cannot be held liable for inadvertent
mistakes. Prices correct at the time of going to print.

4 WILD AUTUMN 2016

 WILD LETTERS
Connect with us at www.wildcard.co.za | wilded@tipafrica.co.za | PO Box 13022, Woodstock, 7915

WINNING
LETTER
KAROO 4x4 TRAILS
We live within easy reach of three of our favourite
parks — Camdeboo, Mountain Zebra and Karoo
National Park — and for the second consecutive
year we spent Christmas at the latter.
On Boxing Day, with a temperature of 44°C, we
took a leisurely six-hour drive including all the 4x4
routes. Each of the trails has interesting sections
and little surprises. There is also more chance of
seeing lions in these areas. No concerns about
damage or scratches to your vehicle are neces-
sary. The sheer beauty of this park cannot be fully
appreciated just by driving the Potlekkertjie Loop So pleased you had a lot of fun despite the heat. I,
and the stunning Klipspringerpas, which of course too, am a huge fan of the Karoo National Park, and
are an absolute must in both directions. the chance to see lions is just another reason to visit.
Judy McMahon See our article on the Karoo lions on page 30 — Ed.

SANParks excels
Having been lucky enough to have just undertaken
a six-month road trip through all the national
parks between South Africa and Kenya, and
back, I just had to write and say how wonderful
SANParks are. East African Parks are shock-
ingly expensive (US $100 per person per day to
self-drive and camp with no facilities in Amboseli,
Kenya). Trying to pre-book any parks in Zimba­­b­
we was impossible. No-one answered the phone
or replied to an email. How we missed SANParks’
efficient online booking system. Our guide in a
Malawi national park asked us if we could help
teach him his birds!
It is a pleasure and a privilege to visit SANParks
with their fantastic facilities, helpful, friendly
and knowledgeable staff, and above all the great
value Wild Card. A month in the Kgalagadi was
definitely one of our highlights. Harriet Nimmo

Gharagab, Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

WINNING LETTER Judy McMahon wins a pair of Ezee’z Lace adventure

shoes (R899) from HI-TEC. Send us your letter for
the chance to win.
With a sturdy sole and fashionable upper, these light walking shoes can
take you straight from city sidewalks to bush footpaths. The Ezee’z Lace
features I-shield technology to protect against stains. V-lite materials
mean it weighs next to nothing.

www.wildcard.co.za AUTUMN 2016 WILD 5

 INSIDE TRACK
Charges for Additional campers
I have been visiting the Kruger Park at least once a
year for the last 50-odd years. Recently we shared
a campsite with two friends at Shingwedzi for six
nights and were charged the standard extra fee
(about R145 per night). We then had four nights’
camping at Letaba, where the booking was again
in our friends’ name and their cost came to R1 010.
As additional campers my wife and I were charged
R1 186 because of a new fee suddenly introduced.
It would have been cheaper to book our own
separate site.
I also discovered that the Nonokani and Northern
Plains 4x4 adventure trails are no longer opera-
tional. What is this all about?
Alick and Pam Bruce-Brand
Joep Stevens, General Manager: Strategic
Tourism Services for SANParks, responds:
Charges for additional vehicles is a norm that is
broadly used in the camping industry, as it has
been in SANParks for many years. This is not a new
charge. Correspondence relating to camping reser­
vations for SANParks clearly highlights the fact
that “additional vehicles will be charged a fee per
night”. It is acknowledged that this might possibly
not have been charged consistently and in order to
prevent confusion, additional vehicles on campsites
will in future be incorporated in the booking pro-
cess. This will also avoid situations where guests
have to pay this on arrival in the parks. Regarding
the self-drive 4x4 trails, some of these were closed
due to increased security risk relating to counter-
poaching activities.
Details Make the difference
The attached photograph of a southern ground hornbill
was taken during our annual Kruger visit. Driving south
from Satara to Tshokwane, we turned off onto the S86
and saw five hornbills marching down the dry riverbed.
Only when we got home did we note that the bird on
our photo had been ringed. The picture and details of
the sighting were submitted to the Endangered Wildlife
Trust. Leigh Combrink, a PhD candidate studying these
birds in Kruger, provided us with interesting information
including that the bird had been ringed as a nestling on
18 February 2011, less than 4 km from our sighting.
David Babbin
6 WILD AUTUMN 2016
CROCS IN THE RIVER?
Is it true that there are no crocodiles in western-flowing
rivers in South Africa and, if so, why not?
Hendrik van der Heever
According to Cites.org, current distribution of the Nile
crocodile in South Africa is in the eastward-flowing rivers
from the Limpopo in the north to the Tugela River in the
south. Westward distribution is restricted by climatic
conditions as well as human pressure. — Ed.
Kudos to Kruger
My friend and I booked a last minute trip to Kruger over
the holidays. In spite of the thousands of visitors, every-
thing ran like clockwork. We didn’t ever have to stand in a
queue at camp reception for longer than five minutes, we
didn’t once encounter a dirty toilet, and we never found
any essential items out of stock in the park shops.
We encountered the Big Five plus wild dogs within three
hours of entering the park. A highlight was definitely
the pack of 25 wild dogs up against five hyena. What an
incredible thing to experience.
At Orpen Dam a few waterbuck came down to drink,
unaware of the croc lurking in the water. While I was hold-
ing up my camera, the croc struck and I got such a fright
that I pressed the shutter — and got a really funny shot of
the waterbuck in ‘flight’ mode.
Diane Brooks
WIN FREE RENEWAL
Where did you go with your Wild Card? Send us a
picture of your card in the parks and you could win free
renewal of your membership. Email your image to
competition@tipafrica.co.za (subject line: Card). For
rules, visit www.wildcard.co.za/competitions.
Wendy Morgan wins free renewal with this picture
of her family at the entrance to Kruger.
 ENHANCE YOUR SAFARI
Read EXPERIENCE WITH BOOKS
all & APPS FROM STRUIK NATURE
about
it . . .
Freshly updated to
be more modern
and mobile friendly,
the Wild newsletter
keeps you in touch
with the natural
world.

As before, every newsletter is packed with

news from our parks, special offers and
events for Wild Card members, and travel and
conservation blogs. The indisputable high-
light is the monthly photo sequence — you’ll
be instantly transported to the wilds.

Look out for these features in the

new design: Sasol eBirds of the Kruger National Park
• Your Wild Card number and expiry date so is the only app you’ll need for birdwatching
you won’t miss out on Wild magazine or time in South Africa’s premier safari destination.
in the great outdoors. It covers over 500 species and includes detailed
• A navigation bar with links to easily renew illustrations and photographs of the birds.
your Wild Card, share your sightings or visit Visit www.randomstruik.co.za/struik-apps.php
our website. to see our range of apps.
• Social media buttons so you can join us on
Facebook, Twitter or Instagram.
• Direct links to Wild magazine if you want to
update your postal address or get the digital
version.

Not on the mailing list?

Visit www.wildcard.co.za to subscribe.

eBook

I hope we can see the amazing young

dancers when we’re at Tankwa Karoo
in March; read about them in my
Wild magazine. – Lee Visser, Facebook
Butterflies of the Kruger National Park & Surrounds is
an invaluable field guide to all butterflies occurring in the
Kruger National Park and surrounds. The detailed accounts,
each with numerous full-colour photographs, were compiled
by butterfly enthusiast, Herbert Otto.

Get the wild app

Want Wild magazine in your pocket? Download the
Wild app, available for Apple and Android devices.
The digital version of the magazine is enriched with
extra photos, trip reports and route information.
Individual issues cost R49.99 a copy; the printed Check out
magazine remains free to Wild Card members who our new
pay annual fees. kid’s poster
range
Available in April
www.struiknatureclub.co.za
www.wildcard.co.za
 INSIDE TRACK
P a f u r i B o r d e r
HOT
SPOT Revel in an exclusive retreat at the new Pafuri
Northern
Border Camp. By Santi van Niekerk
(high)light
I
t’s 05h00 at Crook’s Corner and we
have the Pafuri area to ourselves for
a few hours before the throng of visi-
tors arrive. We are overdosing on the quiet
solitude of this beautiful area in northern
Kruger and enjoying this privilege thanks
to a reservation at the newly opened Pafuri
Border Camp.
The soft greys of dawn, infused with
warm colours, announce the imminent
daybreak. As the bright orange orb peeks
shyly over the horizon, an African fish ea-
gle pierces the silence and signals the dawn
8 WILD AUTUMN 2016
C a m p
chorus to welcome a new day in Africa.
Pafuri Border Camp appears unassum-
ing at first glance, perched on a hill that
overlooks the border post between South
Africa and Mozambique as well as the vast
Pafuri valley. There are three accommoda-
tion units, Mockford House, Mockford
Cottage and Doctor House, with architec-
ture attesting to the history of the camp.
The interiors are all about memories and
it is difficult not to feel the romance of by-
SANTI VAN NIEKERK
gone days in the lovingly restored rooms.
An eclectic mix of 1930s architecture, some
 Each of the three
units is unique.

Victoriana and a splash of modern adds to
the ambience.
Garth Holt, who manages both
Punda Maria and Pafuri Border camps,
explained that this new camp was the
culmination of a large team effort by vari-
ous SANParks personnel. His personal
dedication to the project is evident. In
many respects the challenge was to retain
the authenticity of the buildings while
creating a facility that would be comfort-
able for guests. Hours of research and
consultations with the Mockford family
members resulted in a camp SANParks
can proudly present to visitors.
Each of the three units is unique,
though all have large enclosed verandas
with sofas that beg for lazy afternoon
naps and conversations deep into the
night. Mockford House has four bed-
rooms, Doctor House has three and
Mockford Cottage has one bedroom
with two daybeds on its enclosed ve-
randa. All the units feature en-suite
bathrooms, a fully equipped kitchen and
a private braai area with outdoor furni-
ture. An absolute treat is the large pool
with sun loungers, shared by the three
units. Guests can use Punda Maria or
Pafuri gates and check in at the camp’s
on-site reception. Trip
Pafuri Border Camp will surely be- Planner
come one of the best birding destinations Cost Base rates for
in Kruger National Park as the Pafuri one to four people a
area is renowned for its magnificent night are R2 150 at
birdlife. Each unit can be booked sepa- Mockford Cottage,
rately or the camp as a whole. Be it a which sleeps four;
birding excursion, an immersion into R3 100 at Doctor
House, sleeps six; and
the area’s rich past, or to seek peace in R4 000 at Mockford
the ancient riparian forest, Pafuri of- House, sleeps eight.
fers a wealth of special experiences. The R640 an additional
location of the camp affords easy drives adult, R320 an ad-
along the lush Luvuvhu River road with ditional child. Don’t
the added bonus of leisurely picnics at forget to bring your
Wild Card.
the Pafuri picnic spot, as well as the op-
Bookings SANParks
tion of guided game drives to find that Central Reservations
elusive leopard or Pel’s fishing owl under 012-428-9111,
the cloak of darkness.
/

www.sanparks.org

Sofas beg for lazy afternoon naps and conversations deep into the night.
JOHANNES VAN NIEKERK

www.wildcard.co.za AUTUMN 2016 WILD 9

 INSIDE TRACK
C E D E R B E R G w i l der n e s s a re a
CapeNature’s new cottages at
Algeria unlock the rugged beauty
of this wilderness area for non-
Cederberg
campers. By Magriet Kruger
soJourn
T
Each cottage has a here’s a tribe of people for
spacious stoep whom the name Algeria calls
looking out onto up the very best memories.
the mountains.
Swimming in the soft, clear
water of the Rondegat River. Hiking in
the burnt orange mountains with their
fragrant fynbos and curious rock forma-
tions. Looking up at a velvet sky dusted
with stars at night.
For years this paradise was the almost
exclusive playground of campers. Now
six modern and superbly comfortable
cottages have been built a little uphill
from the campsite. Conveniently close to
the swimming hole and Algeria’s wonder-
ful walks, they are ideal for anyone who
values their creature comforts.
The cottages have a similar eco-chic
feel as CapeNature’s Rocherpan cabins,
with walls painted in natural tones and
latte screens.
Each cottage has two bedrooms, one
with a double bed, the other two singles.
Algeria is a The open-plan lounge has a wood-burning
two-and-a-half stove for winter nights and a sleeper
hour drive from couch suitable for children under 12. The
Cape Town.
TRIP Cottages are R800 a night for one to four people out of season, R100 an extra person.
PLANNER In peak season, it’s R1 200 for one to six people. Hike the Cederberg costs R270 from
www.slingsbymaps.com
Bookings CapeNature Central Reservations 021-483-0190
10 WILD AUTUMN 2016
KARIN SCHERMBRUCKER
well-equipped kitchen even has a micro-
wave oven and electric toaster. One thing
you won’t find is a television, and with
good reason. The large picture windows
look out onto spectacular mountains.
On a recent weekend break, my hus-
band and I stayed in the Maltese Cross
cottage. We immediately fell in love with
the large stoep facing the mountains.
Thanks to clever design, this outside area
feels completely private, screened on one
side by the main bedroom and on the
other by the built-in braai. We lit our fire
and, as the light faded, three grey rhebok
came up to graze on the grasses below.
We raised a glass to our good fortune.
In the morning we got up early and,
armed with Hike the Cederberg, the new
Slingsby map, set off on the Waterfall
hike. This moderately strenuous trail
heads up the Middelberg to an entranc-
ing spot where water cascades into a
translucent pool. As this was our first
visit, we know there’s much more to dis-
cover, but already the name Algeria holds
an irresistible magic.
 INSIDE TRACK
K n y s n a N a t i o n a l
Rooted time
To explore the secrets of the Knysna forest on your own, simply grab a
map and set out on the new self-drive heritage route. By Romi Boom
T
he feather of a Knysna turaco
on the ground in front of my
From Spitskop you feet is unmistakable, a scarlet
can look across to
plume, conspicuous against the
Robberg Peninsula,
the Knysna Heads grassy backdrop. We have just stopped
and Mossel Bay. at Railway Walk and Templeman Sta-
tion, where visitors sign the register for
their permit to reconnoitre the forest on
a self-drive route called Rooted in Time,
from Diepwalle to Gouna. We are stand-
ing under the canopy, trying to picture
the station of yesteryear, a little train that
once carried massive logs to the Knysna
estuary for local and international trade.
Earlier we picked up a map from SAN-
Parks’ Knysna office on Thesen Island.
“It will take about four hours, depending
on how long you linger,” said Melaney
Barrath, who was responsible for the
The Knysna sec- development of the route. It comprises
tion of Garden 10 stops, clearly indicated with route
Route National markers.
Park is located About two kilometres further is the
some 500km from
turnoff to the 800-year-old Big Tree
Cape Town.
named after King Edward VII, who
enjoyed a picnic luncheon at the tree in
1924. Even then this colossus stood head
and shoulders above the other giants. It’s
a poignant encounter.
12 WILD AUTUMN 2016
l a k e a r e a
in
The next stop is the Forest Legends
Museum and Tea Garden at Diepwalle
Forest Station. It is an excellent exhibit
that brings to life the precarious ex-
istence of foresters, gold diggers and
settlers. “The museum lies at the heart
of the route. It showcases the Cultural
Heritage Interpretation Plan that we have
developed for Garden Route National
Park,” said Elzette Bester, Manager:
People and Conservation. The skeleton
of a Knysna elephant may be the closest
you’ll come to one of these elusive ani-
mals, but it is such an impressive display
that you’ll marvel nonetheless. Likewise
at Old Suzie, the little steam engine used
by woodcutters to convert the mighty
trees into transportable timber.
As the route unfolds the forest scenery
becomes totally spellbinding. A highlight
is Spitskop viewpoint, which offers an
unforgettable panorama at 918 m. The
summit is reached along a white-knuckle
drive up a steep incline on a dirt road.
Drizzle prevents us from seeing the three
landmarks of the Garden Route – Mos-
sel Bay, the Knysna Heads and Robberg
Peninsula in Plettenberg Bay – but does
not dampen our spirits.
Nature meets culture The self-drive route
“The idea of self-drive routes originated some takes in 10 sights.
years ago to encourage people to explore
lesser-known areas in Garden Route National
Park,” explained Elzette Bester, Manager: People Spitskop
and Conservation. “By providing information viewpoint
and maps about interesting places to visit, we
Dal van varings trail – 1km
enhance visitors’ experience of the area.”
Rooted in Time is the first such route to see Dal van varings
the light. It starts about 20 kilometres outside
Knysna on the R339 Uniondale road.

In fact, the attractions get better and

Elephant walk (red) – 7km
better. Dal van Varings (Valley of Ferns) Velbroeks draai
is the perfect spot for a picnic alongside
a little stream. From there it is a wind-
ing drive, with open windows, through Kom-se-pad
R399 Diepwalle
the deepest reaches of the forest. We
remain ever hopeful that an elephant
might reveal its presence. No such luck! < To Grootdraai Forest legends museum
Instead we enjoy a brief encounter with
& Gouna
San Ambroso “Old Suzie” steam engine
loggers who explain that they are al- chapel museum Old forester’s house
lowed to fell only trees carefully selected
by SANParks.
Near Gouna, at San Ambroso Chapel
Museum, which is the final route marker, Elephant walk (white) – 8km
Big tree
we learn about the 32 Italian silk spin- (King Edward VII)
Elephant walk (black) – 9km
ners whose 1881 immigration was spon-
sored by the Cape colonial government
in the hope that they would establish a Railway walk &
silk industry in the forest. Alas, the in- Templeman station
digenous mulberry is not related to the
Chinese white mulberry, which is the 20km to knysna
silkworm’s only source of food, and the
dream had to be abandoned. The im-
migrants remained and this little church
was built to remind them of home. To read the trip planner,
go to www.wildcard.co.za
Much more than a memorable outing,
and type “Rooted in time”
Rooted in Time is a moving experience.
/

in the search box.

www.wildcard.co.za AUTUMN 2016 WILD 13

 INSIDE TRACK

A u g r a b i e s F a l l s N a t i o na l P a r k

FROM LEFT: A cute vervet

monkey; the Ebony Trail
offers shady respite
from the sun; dassies are
plentiful.

In your
stride
The Ebony and Gorge Trails are short walks that
explore Augrabies, with its thundering falls and
dramatic vistas. Easily accessible and well signposted
“Take your time. from the chalets and campsite, both will stretch your
Stop and enjoy it.” legs and soothe your soul. By Ron Swilling
– Section ranger Nardus du Plessis

The Gorge Trail is

ideal for taking in the
dramatic scenery.

14 WILD AUTUMN 2016


T
Ebony Trail he trail begins across from
2,8 km the day visitors area. Entering
1,5 hours the tangled undergrowth and
mottled shade cast by the trees,
Type Peaceful stroll
along a circular route the silence is punctuated by small scur-
rying sounds that can be heard but not
Terrain Shady
riverine vegetation, a
identified, as birds look for delectable
striking contrast to the morsels in the bushes and frogs leap into
rest of the arid park the water. Cape bulbuls are visible in the
environment, supports tops of the trees and early on in the walk,
the surrounding eco-
curious vervet monkeys come to see who
system, which includes
birds, frogs and trees. has arrived in their arboreal kingdom.
Dassies (rock hyraxes) Phragmites reeds lining the water-
scurry about the drier course act as filters, cleaning the water.
section. Lush bluebush, spikethorn, white karee,
buffalo thorn, wild tamarisk and Nama­
qua fig trees all drink contentedly at the
small oasis. Apart from the large, slow-
growing ebony tree, two other protected
species along the trail are the handsome
TRIP Getting there Augrabies Falls National Park lies in the Northern Cape, some 120 km from Upington.
PLANNER Cost The Ebony and Gorge trails are free. Augrabies daily conservation fee is R40 an adult and R20 a
child, free with a Wild Card. Contact Park 054-452-9200, Central Reservations 012-428-9111.
F
Gorge Trail rom reception, continue for a
3 km return from the short stretch on the road be-
reception area or tween the chalets, past the swim-
2 km return from
ming pool to the campsite, where
the campsite
1 hour the trail begins.
A wooden bridge is placed convenient-
Type Linear trail that
ends at a breathtaking
ly over a small stream. The first glimpse
viewpoint of the dramatic drop to the river below is
soon visible. The Dassie (6,6 km/3 hours)
Terrain The trail
crosses over rocks and Klipspringer (36 km/3 days) trails
towards the gorge and branch off from the Gorge Trail, which
the muted sound of the continues westward following the sign to
rumbling and tumbling Arrow Point or ‘Spiespunt’ in Afrikaans.
waterfalls is audible.
You will be walking parallel to the
gorge and towards the setting sun, if it’s
that time of day. Twin Falls will appear
on the left-hand side. The two falls, one
long and one short, are clearly visible at
the clearing after the sign. Grass heads
catch the light and beetles scurry off
the path. Soon after you will see Arrow
Point, the grand arrow-shaped outcrop
between the two gorges. Visitors are
www.wildcard.co.za
HO
SPOTT
camel­thorn and the shepherds tree (or
‘witgat’ in Afrikaans), which often appears
stunted in drier areas but grows into a
surprisingly robust tree when sufficient
water is available.
The muddy floor provides a good can-
vas for tracks that remain embedded and
visible long after the animal has moved
on. Eland are often seen near the river
where they come to feed and drink – look
for their large cattle-like tracks.
Several benches have been sensitively
placed along the route so you can sit
quietly and appreciate the peaceful sur-
rounds. Towards the end there’s an inter-
esting labyrinth of passageways, marking
the site of a huge and active porcupine
den. All too soon, the path joins up with
the start and you pop out into the sunny
Augrabies day.
permitted to walk to the end point of the
trail only. Do not attempt to negotiate
the thin line of rocks that balance pre-
cariously on the point above the gorge.
The trail’s end is more than sufficient to
appreciate the spectacular scenery and
to sit peacefully as swallows circle above
and lizards scurry over the rocks.
When you have had your fill of beauty
or if the sun has dipped behind the
Swartrante, it’s time to make your way
back. Egyptian geese fly overhead honk-
ing as they also make their way home for
the night and baboon calls are carried
on the breeze. Nearing the campsite,
you may spot the resident troop groom-
ing each other on the rocks and see the
small quiver tree standing as a watchful
sentinel. It’s a good end to the day before
a hot shower and a delicious supper, but
don’t be surprised if you find yourself
there again in the morning to do it all
once more.
AUTUMN 2016 WILD 15
 A tree trunk by day, a puffball
by night. As it grows dark, the
African scops owl relaxes its
upright posture.
An African scops owl measures
15–17 cm, compared to the
43–50 cm of a spotted eagle owl.

16 WILD AUTUMN 2016


BIRDING BEAT
Cutie pie
The rest camps and picnic sites in Kruger are great places to look for
the African scops owl. Once they’ve been spotted, these tiny owls
often draw an admiring crowd. By Albert Froneman
O
wls are never easy to find, but
the African scops owl is certainly
one of the most challenging owls
to spot. They are almost invisible dur-
ing the day as they remain motionless
huddled up against the stem of a tree and
rely entirely on their cryptically coloured
plumage that resembles the bark of a tree
to conceal them.
They are creatures of habit, however,
and usually return to the same perch in
a tree day after day, so once you know
where to look for a particular individual,
it becomes a little easier to find them.
Once located they are quite confiding,
most probably because they rely on their
camouflage. To make itself even more
invisible, the African scops owl will often
sit in a very upright posture with its ear
tufts pointing upwards and its bright yel-
low eyes closed to tiny slits.
African scops owls weigh only 65 g,
less than a bar of chocolate, and measure
about 16 cm in length, about the size of
a barbet. These diminutive owls lead a
mostly solitary life and are far more of-
ten heard than seen. Their characteristic
frog-like “pruupp” call starts echoing
through the bushveld shortly after dark.
Whenever I listen to the call, it brings
back memories of times spent around a
campfire when interesting stories of the
day’s sightings were discussed. As the first
owl calls its “pruupp”, it is soon answered
albert froneman
by others nearby. The call is repeated ev-
ery few seconds and often varies in pitch
between individuals. This to-and-fro
www.wildcard.co.za
INSIDE TRACK
communication can sometimes persist
throughout the night.
Despite its small size, the African scops
owl is a fierce little predator with a sharp
hooked beak and strong talons. Its diet
consists of a variety of insects but it may
occasionally also prey on small rodents,
reptiles or birds. Hunting is done from a
low perch.
Its looks change considerably as dark-
ness falls. What during the day looks
like a thin upright dry twig becomes a
cute round little owl with large yellow
eyes at night.
It is great fun to try and track them
down in the dark following their frog-
like call and once found, they are often
tolerant and sometimes allow for a close
approach. Do take care not to shine a
spotlight straight into their eyes.
The nest is usually a natural cavity in a
tree and, during the spring or early sum-
mer, two to four eggs are laid. Incubation
is done by the female only and the male
provides her with food during this pe-
riod. Raising four hungry owlets is hard
work and the adults bring food to the
nest 60 to 70 times during the night. The
breeding cycle from laying to fledging
takes about two months.
African scops owls occur throughout
the arid savanna woodland areas of the
northeastern parts of South Africa, ex-
tending down along the east coast as far
as the Eastern Cape Province. If you spot
one, do share your photos with us on
www.facebook.com/wildcardmagazine.
/
AUTUMN 2016 WILD 17
 7 days Swartberg
3 days Gamkaberg S K Y

18 WILD AUTUMN 2016

 travelogue

S C R A P E R
Is this the most unspoilt wilderness in Southern
Africa? The sensational Swartberg Nature Reserve
with its remote location is arguably a strong
contender for the title. By Dale R Morris

The Swartberg is home to a

wide variety of vegetation,
from mountain fynbos to
spekboom veld.

www.wildcard.co.za AUTUMN 2016 WILD 19

 travelogue

M
any visitors to the area simply drive past without ever knowing
it exists. Yet Swartberg Nature Reserve in the Western Cape is a
Unesco World Heritage Site.
Ragged peaks, frosted in winter, stand sentry over pretty
Little Karoo towns such as Oudtshoorn, Calitzdorp and Ladi-
smith. Gorgeous gorges bisect these mountains and streams bubble past glens of
proteas alive with colourful birds. The reserve is home to leopard and caracal, klip-
springer and grey rhebuck, as well as 130 avian species, including Verreaux’s eagles.
In this day-by-day itinerary we get to grips with the lost valley and its glorious
surrounds. We discover hidden corners, beautiful routes, hiking and biking trails,
accommodation, picnic spots and awesome activities. Our conclusion: the Swart-
berg is indeed one of the most incredible conservation areas in the country.

Explore the Swartberg

Pass on mountain bike.

Day 1 Visit a waterfall and summit Swartberg Pass

Oudtshoorn, the biggest town in the
shadow of the Swartberg range, is a good
place to begin your week-long adventure.
Start with an early morning drive to
the Rus en Vrede waterfall close to the
beautiful Koos Raubenheimer Dam. It’s
a great place for a picnic and a splish-
splash.
Follow the short hiking trail there
through thick evergreen forests, a rarity
in the Swartberg, to a secluded cascade
of fresh mountain water. You’ll probably
have the place to yourself.
After breakfast, head up the Swartberg
Pass for a rip-roaring, 45 km, downhill
mountain-bike freewheel. It’s the perfect
route for ‘lazy’ bikers, effortless and sceni-
cally spectacular. If you don’t have your own
bike, there are several tour companies spe-
cialising in rentals and transport to the top.
If biking isn’t your cup of tea, simply
take a slow drive up the pass. I love this
route due to the south-facing views over a
rural patchwork quilt that is the Klein Ka-
roo. It is tranquillity and peace personified
and, on most days, the coastal vanguard of
the Outeniqua Mountains will be cloaked
in a cascade of cloud.
Pack lunch and enjoy a meal at the top.
But don’t forget to pause frequently at the
many laybys and viewpoints.
For an unpretentious stay at the top of
the Swartberg Pass, opt for Cape­Nature’s
Ou Tol (Old Toll House), a hikers’ hut on
the Swartberg Hiking Trail. Although the
accommodation is basic, of the bring-a-
sleeping-bag variety, it’s beautiful, wild and
quiet up there.

20 WILD AUTUMN 2016

 The Swartberg Mountains amount to over
180 000 hectares of prime conservation
real estate, incorporating a diversity of
habitats from fynbos to succulent Karoo.

The Platberg trail

offers captivating
views from the top.

Day 2 Toll House Trails

Take a scenic hike among glorious peaks
and flowering fynbos. Choose from stun-
ning circular trails that start from the Old
Toll House or De Hoek Holiday Resort.
The Ou Tol circuit is 7,4 km and less
challenging, but for those who are willing
to slog a little harder, the 8,4 km Plat-
berg trail is well worth the extra effort.
The views from the 1 948 m summit are
breathtaking, but make sure you are up to
the physical challenge. Hard-core hikers
can do both loops in a single day.
The 8,8 km De Hoek Trail really tests
your legs as it is uphill all the way to the
turn-around point.
Overnight at the Old Toll House.

DARK WINGS
With a wingspan
of around two
metres, the
Verreaux’s eagle
makes an impos-
ing impression.
www.wildcard.co.za
 travelogue

How do plants survive the

hot dry summers in the
Swartberg? Succulents
weather the conditions
by storing water in their
swollen leaves or stems.

22 WILD AUTUMN 2016

 Even in the arid Karoo
you’ll find plants of
extraordinary beauty.
The harder you look at a
patch of fynbos, the more
you are bound to find.

www.wildcard.co.za AUTUMN 2016 WILD 23

 TRAVELOGUE
Day 3 Bothashoek hut and Blouberg viewpoint
Get up early and walk 13 km east along the
top of the range to the Bothashoek hikers
hut. It’s not an easy trek due to the ups
and downs associated with any mountain
range, but a stay at the hut is memorable
due to its exquisite location in the middle
of nowhere.
I saw a trio of sure-footed klipspringers
and more Cape sugarbirds than I could
shake a king protea at. And, up in the sky,
circling overhead like a glider, a magnifi-
cent Verreaux’s eagle.
Non-hikers fear not, the footpath runs
The mountains are
ideal habitat for
klipspringers.
Days 4 & 5 Gamkaskloof: Descend into Die Hel
Hikers can walk back to Ou Tol using
the 4x4 track, which is slightly shorter
and easier than the designated footpath.
From Ou Tol, take your car, motorbike or
mountain bike to the gorgeous Gamkas­
kloof. The valley was made famous by its
pseudonym Die Hel (the Hell), a terrible
misinterpretation of what amounts to a
lush and verdant Eden.
The 37 km Otto du Plessis Road, which
snakes down to this isolated and historic
valley, is possibly one of the most scenic
drives in all of Africa. It’s not 4x4 territory,
but you shouldn’t really attempt it with
low clearance if the weather has been bad.
After switch-backing your way down
to the valley floor, visit the Gamkaskloof
historical museum, which will enlighten
you to the culture of the isolationists who,
since 1830, lived and worked here, hidden
24 WILD AUTUMN 2016
parallel to a 4x4 trail that winds through
magical landscapes of undulating valleys
full of fynbos, shadowed by looming black
peaks. The 12 km road to Bothashoek hut
will take you a few hours to complete due
to its rugged nature. Make sure to get out
of the car occasionally. I recommend pass-
ing Bothashoek hut and visiting Blouberg
viewpoint, a great spot for sundowners.
Overnight at the very basic Bothashoek
Hut. Remember to bring braai wood,
cutlery, pots and pans as well as your
own bedding.
away from the rest of the world. In 1962,
the Otto du Plessis Road was built, but
before then, Gamkaskloof residents could
leave only along a series of arduous foot-
paths, hence the name of Die Hel. Unfit,
lazy or disabled residents probably never
saw the outside world.
The humble homes of yesteryear have
been lovingly restored by CapeNature and
converted into accommodation. Spend at
least one night, preferably two, so that you
can explore the valley, walk some of the
trails, and do some birdwatching.
There’s a real sense of a bygone age in
the Gamkaskloof despite the fact that most
of the ‘kloofers’, as they were known, are
now long gone. Their livestock has been
replaced by kudu and bushbuck, their
farms of apricots and corn now returned
to bush.

Above: Impressive mountains loom over the pass that leads through
the Swartberg. Below: On a baking Karoo day nothing beats cooling
off in a mountain pool.
www.wildcard.co.za
Day 6 Non-stop drama through
Swartberg Pass and Meiringspoort
Retrace your route out of Die Hel and
follow the Swartberg Pass as it meanders
steeply down the northern flanks of
the mountain range and into the Great
Karoo. This section of the pass, which
dates to 1881, is famous for the many
buttressed, dry-stone hairpin bends
designed and instigated by the eminent
road builder, Thomas Bain.
It’s a marvel of engineering built
through a marvel of scenic splendour, and
not really for the faint of heart. Those who
fear heights will have sweaty palms by the
time they reach the quaint olive-growing
town of Prince Albert at the bottom.
From there a picturesque drive of some
65 km skirts eastwards along the base of
the Swartberg, until you reach the geo-
logical wonderland that is Meiringspoort.
Cutting through the Swartberg like a
surgeon’s knife, the Groot River has left a
deep scar that reveals the inner workings
of the Cape fold mountains in all their
glory. Dramatic rock formations, twisted
and warped by tectonic drift, expose a
buckled and folded layer cake of reds
and greys interspersed with the greens of
hardy Karoo succulents.
There are numerous pretty picnic spots
and viewpoints along its 25 km length,
but if you stop at only one, make sure it’s
the Skelm, a beautiful waterfall tucked
secretly away in a cool and shady kloof.
There are no entrance fees in Meirings­
poort, despite the fact that it is well main-
tained and staffed.
Overnight in De Rust.
AUTUMN 2016 WILD 25
 travelogue
Sheer rock walls rise on either
side of the dirt road.
26 WILD AUTUMN 2016
Sweeping panoramas are charac-
teristic of the Karoo landscape.
Day 7 Seweweekspoort: sublime Karoo
Another day of scenic driving, but instead
of following the R328 back up the Swart-
berg Pass, rather head west towards Calitz-
dorp through Matjiesrivier. This route
hugs the southern flanks of the Swartberg,
affording marvellous views and 40 km of
unhurried driving before reaching the
legendary R62. You’ll see towering peaks,
farms and vineyards, quaint cottages and
stretches of magnificent wilderness.
After 50 km further west, turn north on
the R323 and into the astonishing Sewe-
weekspoort (Seven Weeks Canyon). The
ravine through which this dirt road winds
is steeper, narrower and altogether more
beautiful than Meiringspoort, with sheer
vertical walls and folded layered cliffs re-
sembling gargantuan chunks of lasagna.
Make sure to traverse this marvel of
nature slowly. You will feel humbled by
the sheer size and enormity of it all. At the
end of the pass, you’ll hit a T-junction at
which point you turn right, following a
dirt road down to the Gamkapoort Dam.
A giant lake fills up a landscape of ridge-
back mountains and dry rocky hills. This
is the Karoo at its most sublime. A place of
bizarre little succulent plants, big skies and
a real sense of emptiness.
At the edge of the lake, a huge dam wall
holds back the Gamka River from gushing
through the red rock canyon. Spend the
night here at the cottages by the lake or
head back up the way you came.
 Situated on top of the mountain,
Ou Kraal is a great overnight
spot for hikers and off-roaders.
Days 8–10 Gamkaberg Nature Reserve
Can’t get enough of these mountains?
Then add an additional few days to visit
the nearby Gamkaberg Nature Reserve.
Various tented lodges are tucked away
in beautiful corners of this succulent Ka-
roo and fynbos reserve, all of which are
rented on an exclusive basis so you have
the whole place to yourself. Off-roaders
should stay at Ou Kraal at the very top of
the mountain. It is one of the most beauti-
ful camps in the world. I take my family
as often as I can to enjoy the peace and
www.wildcard.co.za
the openness up there. We love to picnic
on the boulders at Ou Kraal, with its
360-degree panorama of the Klein Karoo,
Swartberg, Outeniqua mountains and
Gamkaberg itself.
Keep your eyes open for the rare Cape
mountain zebra, and if you hike up the
dramatic sheer-sided Tierkloof, look out
for leopard or caracal footprints.
There are plenty of 4x4 trails and hiking
paths to explore, including the two-day
25 km Tierkloof Hiking Trail.
Caracal ranks among the
top ticks in the Gamkaberg.
AUTUMN 2016 WILD 27
 travelogue

Ou Kraal camp in
Gamkaberg has been
upgraded with four rus-
tic huts, each sleeping
two people.

Trip planner
Getting there Swartberg Nature
Reserve lies on the N12.
bookings For reservations, permits,
entrance fees and keys to the Swartberg Snyman Huis is one of
several restored cot-
4x4 route, contact CapeNature on 021- tages in Swartberg.
483-0190, www.capenature.co.za.
Hike The Swartberg Hiking Trail is an
Trail Run and Mountain Biking The super
epic four-day, 46 km hike starting from
fit may want to run or ride to Die Hel and back.
De Hoek mountain resort and ascending
www.tohellandback.co.za
to the Bothashoek hut, after which you
walk to Ou Tol and then back again along
a slightly different route. It’s a strenuous
trail, but spectacular, and can be halved
if you don’t fancy doing the whole thing.
If you would prefer a fully catered slack-
pack version of the trail, contact Jan
Bester, jan@truesouthtravel.co.za, the
official CapeNature concession partner.
For a trip report of the trail, go to
www.footprint.co.za/swartberg.htm.

Swartberg Trek with donkeys on

Nature Reserve a slack-pack trail.
lies about
40 km north of donkey trail The four-night slack-pack adventure is
Oudtshoorn. fully catered and follows a path once used by residents
of Die Hel. Accompanied by a donkey that will carry your
pack, you trek 21 km into Die Hel. www.donkeytrail.com

28 WILD AUTUMN 2016

 30 in 30
RECONNECT WITH NATURE
CHALLENGE
APRIL 2016 JOIN OUR CHALLENGE
IT’S AS EASY AS 1-2-3!
Do you have a minute? That’s all it’ll take. Step outside for one minute on 1 April
and let the great outdoors work its magic. Smell a flower. Watch a bird. Do noth-
ing. Do anything. The next day add another minute, and another every day
after that. By the end of the month, you will spending 30 minutes in nature. Visit our
website from 1 March to download our welcome pack including the journal to help
you record your experiences and be in the running to win a stay for four at Msinsi.
It’s our way to help you reconnect with nature.

WIN
1 of 3 family
weekends for four
people worth
R6 300

Visit www.msinsi.co.za for more information and share your

FIND US ON FACEBOOK
AND TWITTER journey on Facebook/Msinsi Resorts & Game Reserves
Email: msinsi.marketing@msinsi.co.za | Tel: 031 765 7724
 Conservation

Despite a daring escape which caused

mayhem in the hinterland, the
reintroduction of lions to Karoo
National Park makes sense both from
an ecological and a tourism
perspective. By Mitch Reardon

Lion
KING

30 WILD AUTUMN 2016

 Karoo’s most famous
lion, Sylvester (standing),
with companions.

“Controlling herbivore numbers through

predation minimises the need for capture
and culling.”

S
cientists recognise that the key to a natural area’s
health is intact ecosystems, where all the native
species play their part,” said Angela Gaylard, SAN-
Parks’ regional ecologist for the Frontier section.
“A primary objective when Karoo National Park was
proclaimed was to restore this piece of the Great Karoo by
reintroducing wildlife species that occurred here but were
shot out during the colonial past.”
Since its humble beginnings in 1979, Karoo National
Park has grown from 7 209 ha to its present ecologically
viable 93 000 ha, big enough to support a small popula-
HARRY LEWIS

tion of lions in a predator-prey relationship that requires

minimum management intervention. In 2010, a founder

www.wildcard.co.za AUTUMN 2016 WILD 31

 conservation
pride of two males, two lionesses and four
cubs was relocated from Addo Elephant
National Park.
“Bringing back the charismatic big
carnivore component after an absence of
170 years was guaranteed to enhance the
park’s tourism value,” Angela noted. “It’s
also important ecologically. Nowadays we
focus on managing processes rather than
species. Controlling herbivore numbers
through predation minimises the need for
capture and culling.”
Historically this was always good lion
country, as attested to by the names of the
Leeu (the Afrikaans word for lion) and
Gamka (the Khoikhoi word for lion) riv-
ers, two of the three rivers that have their
source in Karoo National Park. French an-
thropologist and explorer François le Vail-
lant crossed the dry Gamka in March 1783
and was told by local settlers that lions had
been common when antelopes were abun-
dant, but their population declined when
most of the antelopes were shot. In a letter
written from Beaufort West in 1822, Mary
Moffat mentioned that farmers told her
60 lions had been killed in the previous
six years over a wide area surrounding the
village. In July 1823, George Thompson,
a Cape Town merchant on a business trip
into the interior, camped on the Gamka a
day’s journey from Beaufort West and had
to light a bonfire at night to keep hungry
lions at bay.
“Carnivore reintroductions are consid-
ered more difficult than those of herbi-
vores but Karoo National Park’s lions have
adapted well to their new home and are
hunting successfully,” said Harry Lewis, an
intern completing his practical year at Ka-
roo National Park, as we set out with field
ranger Armond Nel to collect data on lion
kills. “Lions hunt certain species based
on their abundance, size, habitat and the
annual rainfall. Our lions concentrated on
gemsbok in their first year. The next year
red hartebeest topped the list, followed by
kudu in winter, eland and gemsbok. They
32 WILD AUTUMN 2016
also take very small numbers of ostrich,
springbok and zebra.”
One of the original cubs disappeared,
Harry said, but two cubs were born in
2012. To prevent inbreeding, another two
sub-adult males from the Kgalagadi were
released in 2013. “It’s envisaged they will
take over the role of pride males when
they come into their prime and displace
the two older males. Until then the new-
comers keep to the eastern 30 per cent of
the park, well clear of the dominant males’
territory in the central-west.”
“Generally we introduce one social unit
in a park, but Karoo is big enough to have
more,” said Angela. “We mimic their nat-
ural population-regulating mechanisms
through contraception and coalition
swaps between our smaller parks, which
injects new genes into the system. We
then monitor their effect on the prey base
as an indication of whether we need to
lower the numbers or let them increase.”
Soft release
When reintroducing lions it is crucial to
prevent escapes, which in the case of Ka-
roo National Park would pose a threat to
neighbouring stock farms. To minimise
that risk, the park’s 2,4 m predator-proof
boundary fence is reinforced with six elec-
tric strands plus a tripwire at the base to
discourage burrowing animals from dig-
ging holes. The lions are held in a boma
for a minimum of a month, depending on
their behaviour and condition. This allows
them time to acclimatise and for bonding
between males and females from different
prides to take place. Keeping them in an
electric-fenced boma instils an aversion to
all fences.
This so-called ‘soft release’ relaxes ter-
ritorial bonds, ensuring they remain near
the release location when set free. It also
gives them time to adjust to tracking
collars and become habituated to game-
HARRY LEWIS
viewing vehicles. Essential veterinary
care is provided during pre-release, in
“Our lions concentrated on gemsbok in their first
year. The next year red hartebeest topped the list.”

PICKY DINER
Data collected
on lion kills in
Karoo National
Park show that
they have distinct
preferences.
 conservation

Niklaas Witwarm Sylvester

HARRY LEWIS
Three of the male lions that can be seen in Karoo National Park.

particular treatment for internal and exter-
nal parasites. Kgalagadi lions were sourced
(see below) because of their disease-free
status but in stressful, captive situations
increased parasite loads can occur.
Despite the precautions, in June 2015 a
three-year-old male lion slipped through a
section of flood-damaged fence. A farmer
reported seeing his tracks and, on being
notified, SANParks immediately began an
intensive search using a helicopter, five ve-
hicles, 20 people, and finally a team of 15
professional trackers with six sniffer dogs
brought in from Botswana. For 24 days,
the lion, dubbed Sylvester by the media,
evaded the search party while ranging for
nearly 400 km over mountainous terrain
and through river valleys, killing 28 sheep,
a Nguni cow and a kudu along the way. At
last he was spotted sunning himself above
steep cliffs in the Nuweveld Mountains at
2 000 m above sea level. A SANParks vet
darted him from the helicopter and, while
still anaesthetised, he was loaded onto a
sling hung beneath the chopper and air-
lifted back to the boma where he was ex-
amined and pronounced in good health.
Farmers who lost stock were compensated
and, on reflection, they conceded there
had been an upside to Sylvester’s walk-
about. Rustlers were too afraid to operate
while he was on the loose.
Now fitted with a satellite collar, Sylves-
ter was held in the park’s boma while his
future was determined. Ultimately it was
decided to keep him at Karoo National
Park, as a member of a new pride. Two
companions, a male and female, both
four-year-olds, were flown from Marakele
National Park in Limpopo. Sadly the male
died shortly after bonding with Sylvester,
leaving the park with a total of 12 lions.
Three more lion cubs were born during
December 2015, bringing the total to 15.
/

The right genes

Three of Karoo National Park’s reintroduced lions were originally from the Kgalagadi
Transfrontier Park. They were selected as it was thought Kalahari lions were genetically
similar to the extinct Karoo lion, also known as the Cape lion. Read more online at
www.wildcard.co.za, search for “Karoo lion”.

Trip planner Karoo National Park is 12 km from Beaufort West, off the
N1. Being about 450 km from Cape Town, it’s an ideal
overnight stop between Gauteng and the Cape. Accommodation options include campsites
at R225 a night base rate for two people, chalets for R1 085 a night and family cottages
sleeping four for R1 630 including breakfast. Book through SANParks Central Reservations
on 012-428-9111. For details on the park and activities available, visit www.sanparks.org.
HARRY LEWIS

Rest camp view from

Pienaars Pass.

34 WILD AUTUMN 2016

 4x4 routes

Off the
beaten track
Head into the heart of the bush
on one of our recommended
off-road trails.

1
The scenic Caracal

SCOTT RAMSAY
Caracal Eco Trail, Namaqua National Park, near Kamieskroon
Eco Trail in Namaqua
It’s all about variety on this route, which wends its way from Skilpad rest camp in the heart National Park.
of the wildflower reserve to Groen River mouth at the coast. Picture game-rich grassy plains,
gigantic boulders, dune fields and pretty bays. The driving isn’t very technical, although you’ll
5
have to brave some steep dongas and soft sand. You’ll have to get an early start if you want
to cover the nearly 200 km and get back to Skilpad in one day. A better option is to pitch your
4
tent at one of the coastal campsites (R125), which are almost completely wild. For the ultimate 3
in seclusion, overnight at Luiperdskloof, a stone cottage tucked away in the mountains. 1
Cost No additional fee.
Contact Book the trail and Luiperdskloof with Namaqua reception on 027-672-1948. 2

2 Bedrogfontein 4x4
Trail, Addo National
Park, near Port
3 Bivane 4x4 Trail,
Elizabeth
For a new perspective
on Addo, take this 45 km
route climbing high into
the Suurberg. Graded 2 to
3, this trail features steep
inclines and hairpin turns;
highlights include dramatic
views, wildlife sightings and
cycads. Allow all day as you
need an hour’s travel time
from Addo main camp to
the start at Kabouga and
another two hours back
from the end. You could
also stay at Kabouga the
night before or after the
trail. Camping costs R120 a
night for two people, while
the self-catering cottage is
R480 a night for two.
Cost R515 a vehicle.
Contact Book on 042-
233-8619, addoenquiries@
sanparks.org.
Ithala Game Reserve,
near Vryheid
This scenically spectacular
reserve stretches from
sandstone cliffs to forested
riverbanks, with bushveld
and grassland in between.
The 17 km Bivane Trail is
a self-guided route that
requires low-range. It
tackles rocky terrain and
a few river crossings, of-
fering drivers a technical
challenge, grade 3 to 5.
Do check conditions in the
rainy season and remem-
ber there are no escape
routes. Thalu Bush Camp
is an idyllic overnight spot,
from R1 230 base rate for
three people.
Cost R75 a vehicle, maxi-
mum seven vehicles a day.
Contact Book with
reception on arrival or on
034-983-2540.
4 Nyonyane 4x4 Trail,
Mlilwane Wildlife
Sanctuary, near
Mbabane, Swaziland
The way up to Nyonyane
Peak isn’t nearly as fright-
ening as its other name,
the ominous-sounding
Rock of Execution. It’s a
relatively easy off-road
ramble with some steep
bits and a few rocky sec-
tions. The thrill comes from
the incredible views of roll-
ing hillsides and sculpted
peaks. The distance can be
easily covered in a morn-
ing, but pack a picnic and
enjoy the outing. There is a
range of accommodation to
choose from, but for some-
thing out of the ordinary,
stay in a traditional Swazi
beehive hut.
Cost None
Contact Book on +268-
2528-3943, reservations@
biggameparks.org.
5 Mananga 4x4 Trail,
Kruger National Park,
near Nelspruit
The game-rich plains around
Satara are the setting for
this 48 km trail, which lets
you venture into parts of
the park that rarely see
visitors. Because only six
vehicles are allowed on the
trail each day, you definitely
won’t find yourself crowded
at sightings. The trail starts
11 km outside Satara and
explores the knobthorn and
marula savanna to the east
of the H1-4. Be warned that
the route may be closed
after rain as, in order to limit
environmental damage, the
track is given time to dry
out again.
Cost R631.25 a vehicle, plus
R100 cash deposit which is
refunded upon return.
Contact Book with recep-
tion on 013-735-6306 the
night before.

bothashoek 4x4 If you are visiting Die Hel and Gamkaskloof, try this 12 km off-road trail. Read more on page 18.

www.wildcard.co.za AUTUMN
AUTUMN 2016
2016 WILD
WILD XX
35
 CAMPING

With its windswept fynbos plains

and sugar-sand dunes unfolding
onto the Indian Ocean shoreline, De

Lazy daze
Hoop Nature Reserve is a top-class
destination for outdoor lovers.
By Jacques Marais

36 WILD AUTUMN 2016

 BEACH BLISS
A stretch of sand
all to yourself?
It’s possible when
you holiday in
De Hoop Nature
Reserve.
www.wildcard.co.za
 CAMPING
S
ilence slip-slides in from across the
sea and adjacent dunes. It perme-
ates the landscape at the southern-
most tip of Africa. Indiscernible,
aural, misty. Not many places around the
world are blessed with this sumptuous
hush. De Hoop is one of them.
At an impressive 36 000 ha, the reserve
rates as one of the most extensive con-
servation areas under the stewardship of
CapeNature. In addition, the marine re-
serve extends for a further five kilometres
into the Indian Ocean, primarily to safe-
guard what is one of the subcontinent’s
most prominent whale calving sites, but
also to protect the vast and fascinating
marine diversity.
The reserve is embraced by minimalist
fynbos plains, prominent coastal dune-
lands and a shimmering wetland. High
above, skittish clouds scud against an
opal sky, mimicking the sparse beauty
of this quiet reserve. Tranquillity is all
around, so no wonder the mood around
our camp was pegged just this side of
sleepwalking.
De Hoop is a place where
birding off the bike is
truly brilliant.
We had pitched our tent the day before
at a site overlooking the subdued shim-
mer of the vlei. The proximity to water
and searing summer heat contributed to
a collective state of lethargy. So, when I
heard my son, Robs, whispering, “Snakey,
snakey,” I did not bolt upright immedi-
ately to check out the situation.
He was outside the gazebo, in one of
those gangly giraffe squats you unthink-
ingly execute during your early teens,
gazing down the road at what I expected
38 WILD AUTUMN 2016
to be a tiny reptilian intruder. The ‘snakey’
in question, however, turned out to be the
Cape cobra variety, and pretty near the
two-metre mark.
“Ah yes, I know him. An excellent spec-
imen,” enthused Tony Phelps of the Cape
Reptile Institute when I bumped into him
later that afternoon on my bike ride. A se-
nior researcher at De Hoop, and globally
renowned for his long-term viper studies,
Tony knew this snake by name, describing
its hunting behaviour and exactly where it
lived. Robs, of course, was thrilled by this
information, and I had to keep a beady
parental eye on him during the rest of the
long weekend.
Fortunately, De Hoop Nature Reserve
offers way more than snake charming
when it comes to entertaining. Everyone
from Grace, four, and Beth, 13, as well as
mum and dad, found the outdoor charms
exhilarating.
Wave watching
The treasures of the ocean, sweeping away
towards the Antarctic, are legion. Dunes
are prime spots for watching whales and
frolicking dolphins. The marine and ter-
restrial bird list is exceptional. So, too, the
cliff-top hiking trails along the Ramsar
wetlands. De Hoop is an exceptional out-
door arena to explore, with a great mix of
bike trails, hikes and trail runs, as well as a
range of guided activities.
Land-lubbers such as me get to go wild
on terra firma with bontebok, eland and
Cape mountain zebra as their primary
companions. I had to pedal hard to keep
up with my lovely wife as we cavorted
along dirt tracks amidst the coastal
plains. Swooping plovers, pompous
spoonbills, capering kelp gulls and grass
birds exploding from the renosterveld
scrub kept us enthralled. We were even
 Tranquillity is all around, so no wonder the mood around
our camp was pegged just this side of sleepwalking.

4 1 De Hoop has 10
spacious campsites
and five stands for
caravans. 2 The whole
family can gather
around the braai. 3
Food tastes better
when enjoyed out-
doors. 4 The sparkling
pool overlooks De
Hoop Vlei.

AUTUMN 2016 WILD 39

 CAMPING
spoilt with a glimpse of a wandering alba-
tross patrolling the distant ocean chop. De
Hoop is a place where birding off the bike
is truly brilliant.
Quad biking allows less active visitors
to access the fynbos plains, while the eco-
boat trip is a superb way to traverse the
serene vlei. Or you could go otter-spot-
ting, trek into the dunes, lose yourself in
the diverse botanical wonder world. The
De Hoop to-do list feels endless.
We opted to camp rather than book
into one of the self-catering cottages, and
what a great way to kick off the school
holidays. Free-ranging kids, sunset braais,
beach hikes and the glitter of starry skies.
There is no better way to immerse your-
self in the magic of De Hoop.

/
De Hoop Nature Reserve
is a three-hour drive from
Cape Town.
40 WILD AUTUMN 2016
Explore the reserve
on mountain bike at
your leisure or join a
guided MTB tour.
Trip planner
S34º27’14.54”; E20º24’03.52”
Getting there Take the N2 to Caledon,
then turn off to Napier and Bredasdorp.
From here, take the R319 in the direction of
Swellendam, but turn right after 6 km at the
sign to De Hoop/Malgas/Infanta. Follow the
dirt road for 35 km to the reserve entrance.
Accommodation Pitch a tent, park your
caravan or camper, book one of the many
self-catering chalets, or stay in a fully catered
lodge. The lodging in the nature reserve is
co-ordinated by the De Hoop Collection and
you will be spoilt for choice.
Camping in De Hoop is fantastic as you’ll
find yourself in the very centre of the fynbos
wilds, but safe and conveniently close to all
the amenities. The sites are approximately
20 m apart and share a communal bathroom
and kitchenette with basic cooking equip-
ment and other facilities. Campsites are R325
a night for one to four people.
Activities Other than the nature activities,
you have access to a tennis court (bring your
racquets) and a boules court (boules sets are
available) as well as a lovely pool. Extensive
gardens, with ancient, spreading fig trees,
are sure to delight the kids. The Fig Tree
Restaurant is open from 08h00 to 21h00 and
offers an à la carte menu for breakfast, lunch
and supper, plus snacks and tea.
Contact Reserve 028-542-1114,
www.capenature.co.za.
Accommodation bookings 021-422-4522,
www.dehoopcollection.com
De Hoop is an Important Bird Area (IBA) and the
reserve offers guided birding walks.

It’s heaven for beach lovers: you can build sand-

castles, hike, swim and fool around in rock pools.

www.wildcard.co.za AUTUMN 2016 WILD 41

 COMMUNITY

Here, in this riverbed, we’re

reminded of the fact that
everything is interconnected.

42 WILD AUTUMN 2016

 Opposite: Dancing
forms part of the
Shangaan Cultural
Festival. This page:
Crossing the dry
Limpopo riverbed.

VILLAGE
people
Crossing the Limpopo River into Zimbabwe on a
transfrontier trail, Wild meets some of Kruger’s
neighbours at the Shangaan Cultural Festival.
The annual event symbolises the hope for cross-
border tourism in this remote part of the park.
By Joël Roerig

I
t is early in the morning as we traverse the magical fever
tree forest in the Makuleke Concession, leaving Return­
Africa’s temporary tented camp on the Luvuvhu River
in Kruger National Park behind us. We stop briefly
for some feisty elephants and to admire a family of languid
nyalas, before disembarking at a magnificent baobab for our
rendezvous with Chief Makuleke and Eric Tivani, chairper­
son of the Makuleke Communal Property Association.
Robin-chats and scrub-robins are in full voice and from
far across the river in Zimbabwe a gorgeous bush-shrike
chimes in on the dawn chorus. The walk we are about to
embark on is a special one that will take us in the footsteps
of the chief ’s ancestors.
“Before we were forcibly removed from this area, the
Makuleke people often met with the Sengwe people from the
The Pafuri region other side of the river,” Eric explains to us. “We all have fam­
lies in Kruger’s far ily members who married there.”
north. We had met the chief and Eric the evening before at the
burial site of their Makuleke ancestors, in a cathedral of
spectacular trees. They spoke candidly about their fate dur­
ing the apartheid years when they lost their land. In 1996,
JOËL ROERIG

in a landmark deal, it was given back to the clan. They have

since partnered with a handful of private operators, such

www.wildcard.co.za AUTUMN 2016 WILD 43

 COMMUNITY

as ReturnAfrica, to bring tourists into this beautiful part of

northern Kruger.
“We are one people,” says the chief, confirming his delight
about this excursion across the Limpopo into Zimbabwe. “One
day I want to bring young Makuleke across the border as well,
so they also appreciate the ties.” For now though, it’s up to the
chief to represent them.
We start walking through dense stands of feverberry crotons
and other assorted riverine shrub, our guide alerting us to fresh
hippo dung. Along with the chief and Eric, our group consists
of policymakers from the Peace Parks Foundation, the govern­
ment, a few journalists and some other invitees of Piet Theron,
the energetic international co-ordinator for the Great Limpopo
Transfrontier Conservation Area. He has made his way across
the river many times and hopes it won’t be long before trails
such as this one are common.

Chief Sengwe moved some of his own

people to make a wildlife corridor for
the transfrontier area a reality.
A woman blows
It is a special feeling traversing the wide expanses of soft sand a kudu horn at a
that is the Limpopo riverbed in September. There is symbolism celebration of the
in every footstep. Not only are we walking across one of Africa’s Makuleke. Below:
most iconic rivers, we are crossing a boundary that is literal, Fever tree forests
are typical of
political and philosophical. Yet it doesn’t exist. Elephant dung,
northern Kruger.
impala middens and a troop of noisy baboons confirm this.
They don’t see lines on a map. Here, in this riverbed, we are re­
minded of the fact that everything is interconnected. The dream
of the transfrontier area is to open up this interconnected world
to tourists as well.
After some tricky navigating through the Zimbabwean side
of the floodplain, we are entertained by a male Marico sunbird
while we wait for our ride. A drive of about 40 minutes takes
us to the village of Samu, where the Shangaan cultural festival
begins while friendly Zimbabwean immigration officers process
our passports. Chief Makuleke is welcomed by his counterpart,
Chief Sengwe, who famously moved some of his own people to
make a wildlife corridor for the transfrontier area a reality.
There is dancing and singing in the midday heat. The local
youth have been practising for weeks, says Trevor Makondo, a
teacher at the Samu High School, who is the master of ceremo­
nies during the festival. “We are one people,” he confirms, add­
ing he is happy with Chief Makuleke’s visit and appreciates the
money raised by the Pafuri Cross Border Trail, which pays for
the cultural festival. “We want to pass our cultural ties on to the
next generation,” says Trevor.
RETURNAFRICA

Where does wildlife and nature fit into that culture? It’s all
around the village, but sometimes its benefits can be hard to see.

44 WILD AUTUMN 2016

Ut exersped ut rem
ipsae ne nimolo om-
niatiae. Et int abore-

Eric Tivane, chairperson of

the Makuleke Communal
Property Association.

“It is essential to get tourists across. We need

to show the value-add of a transfrontier park.”

Wilderness Trail The next cross-border trail is

planned for September 2016. It can be booked through
reservations@returnafrica.com or on 011-646-1391.
www.wildcard.co.za AUTUMN 2016 WILD XX
 COMMUNITY

“We believe in conservation and want to protect this area for

future generations,” says Trevor. “People need to be educated.
Tourists fly all the way from Europe to see a buffalo and take
photos, so we should protect them.” The Sengwe and Malapati
areas, however, rely on meagre agriculture, with animals such
as elephants regularly destroying crops and lions grabbing cat­
tle, while roaming herds of the same buffalo that tourists want
to see pose a danger for the locals. The master of ceremonies at the
Trevor says the community is in favour of the transfrontier festival, Trevor Makondo.
area, which is meant to create a wildlife corridor from Kruger
to Gonarezhou National Park in Zimbabwe. Village head Peter
Ndlovu echoes Trevor’s thoughts, “We are trying to convince
people to conserve, not to poach, but we have young guys with­
out work snaring kudus and other animals. Even our own cattle
end up in snares. This needs to stop.”

JOËL ROERIG
The festival celebrations continue for hours, each dance
more elaborate than the next, with various members of our
party joining in. With my head full of the sweat and the smiles The cross-border wilderness trail
and the spectacle, I talk to Piet about the prospect of the Great takes visitors to unexplored parts.
Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area as we make our way
across the Limpopo back into South Africa.
“When Chief Sengwe got people to move out of the wildlife Into Mozambique
corridor, expectations were created around tourism benefits,” The Great Limpopo Transfrontier
he admits. “We did feasibility studies about building a low-water Conservation Area consists of
Kruger, Gonarezhou and three
bridge for tourists across the Limpopo. That got stuck in the
Mozambican national parks, Lim-
planning phase, as there was no money for the project.” popo, Zinave and Banhine. While
When Piet realised it would take a while before real tour­ the Kruger-adjacent Limpopo Na-
ism could be directed towards Zimbabwe, he started the Pafuri tional Park is dominated by mopane
Cross Border Trail in 2013 to show commitment to the endeav­ woodland and mixed woodland on
our. “It is essential to get tourists across. We need to show the sand, Zinave is known for its scenic
landscape covered with knobthorns
value-add of a transfrontier park. The corridor in Zimbabwe
and clusterleafs. It has a very high
has pans, hot springs, places along the Limpopo, so there is carrying capacity for wildlife and re-
definite tourism potential.” stocking is part of the development
In November 2015, workshops were held to establish how plan. Banhine has a large wetland
communities living on the borders of the protected areas could system with open grassland.
benefit from conservation. “We have seen that when com­ Recently, the Mozambican Govern-
munities benefit from conservation projects, they support ment signed a co-management
agreement with the Peace Parks
them,” says Piet, adding that the increase in wildlife crime and
Foundation, committing to develop
poaching brings a greater urgency to the transfrontier plans. Zinave National Park over the next
“The goal is now to develop projects that are of value to local five years.
communities. These may entail tourism and conservation, but Just like the Sengwe corridor
also a range of other sectors such as agriculture, livestock and will link Kruger to Gonarezhou, it is
business development.” envisaged that Kruger will link with
This year he hopes to make things concrete and open trans­ Zinave and Banhine national parks
through the Massingir, Corumana
boundary self-drive 4x4 routes and wilderness walking trails
and various privately and State-
to Zimbabwe, for starters. “In the Mozambican section, we are owned conservation areas. The
working on an adventure camp in the Madonse area. You will borders of Banhine have been re-
get picked up in Mopani camp in Kruger and spend four days aligned for this purpose.
walking, mountain biking and fishing to your heart’s content in For more information, visit
a beautiful wild place.”
/

www.greatlimpopo.org

46 WILD AUTUMN 2016

 A group of dancers pose in Makuleke Village. While the Shangaan Cultural Festival
takes place once a year, the village receives visitors more frequently.

CULTURE TOUR
Dancers from
RETURNAFRICA

the Makuleke
community whirl
in a ritualised
performance that
involves singing.
 people in parks

“The mystery in northern Kruger is

why there are less wild dogs than one
might expect, given the habitat.”

48 WILD AUTUMN 2016

 On the
Edge
There are more wild dogs in northern Kruger than was
previously thought, yet they are seldom seen.
Wild joined a tracking team along the Shingwedzi River
and discovered that several lion prides and wild dog
packs are using both sides of the border.

By Dianne Tipping-Woods

“W
ild dogs love open, grassy
banks alongside rivers and
streams. To track them, you
have to think like them,” says predator
researcher Leah Andresen as we explore
a remote drainage line to the north of the
Shingwedzi River in the Kruger National
Park. Leah directs detection dog Scooby
and his handler, Jennifer Hartman from
Conservation Canines, towards the most
likely looking terrain. We’re moving
along the dry watercourse, sometimes in
the stream bed and sometimes weaving
through jackal-berries, apple-leaf trees,
knobthorns and the occasional sycamore
fig. Leah moves as though she’s part wild
SCOTT RAMSAY, leah andresen

dog herself. Wild dogs in the

“Large predators use large spaces. They north of Kruger are
ignore administrative boundaries,” says seldom seen, but
SANParks large mammal ecologist Sam research proves they
Ferreira, who himself has been involved are there.

www.wildcard.co.za AUTUMN 2016 WILD 49

 people in parks
in numerous studies about predators in
Kruger. For the last five years valuable
research has been done on large predator
populations in the Great Limpopo Trans-
frontier Conservation Area (GLTFCA)
by Kristoffer Everatt and Leah, both PhD
candidates at the Nelson Mandela Metro-
politan University. Their work is providing
data to better understand predator dynam-
ics in the north of the park and, especially,
key wildlife species that span international
boundaries.
Moving confidently and quietly through
the bush, Leah’s eyes and ears are attuned
to the landscape. She’s honed her skills
over thousands of hours of working in
some of the world’s most remote and wild
places, tracking grizzly bears and wolves
in the Yukon in Canada, jaguars in Belize
and now, lions, cheetahs and wild dogs in
South Africa and Mozambique.
“We are particularly
excited about the
wild dog findings in
northern Kruger.”
“Let’s go down for a bit,” she says, lead-
ing us into the sandy stream bed broken
by scattered rocks and grassy nodes.
Within minutes, Scooby is signalling that
he’s found something under a tangle of
grass. It’s either lion scat or wild dog scat.
As a detection dog, he’s a high-functioning
animal trained to target specific scents and
he’s hardly ever wrong.
“Dogs like Scooby contribute to conser-
vation science by assisting researchers to
locate a sufficient number of samples from
rare and elusive species. The DNA extract-
ed from the scats will allow us to estimate
population size and structure for species
that are otherwise difficult to study,” ex-
plains Leah as she begins to document
the scene. Gloves on, she examines the
scat, breaking it open and giving Jennifer
the information to record using the cyber
tracker app.
Scooby finds more scats in about a 20 m
radius and the remains of a waterbuck
50 WILD AUTUMN 2016
further along the stream bed. “He’s my
hero,” smiles Leah, as Jennifer rewards him
with a throw of his small orange ball and a
cool sip of water.
As Leah works the scene, the question
is, what killed the waterbuck. Was it wild
dog or lion? She crouches down, looking
at the clean ribs and a few tufts of hair.
“I’m thinking lion,” she says, noting that
wild dogs like to nibble the ribs down to
the spine. The scats, however, look like
wild dog, with tell-tale bits of grass in the
faeces. In the field, factors such as the age
of the scat, fungal growth and the weather
can make a positive identification hard,
“but the genetics are definitive,” she ex-
plains as we continue up the drainage line
with several scat samples neatly bagged.
As we circle back on the opposite side
of the drainage line, there are a number of
new samples to collect. Just before we cross
the Shingwedzi and return to the research
vehicle, Scooby finds even more scats on a
wide, pebbled bank. A pod of hippo watch
us and I can picture the pack here, drink-
ing and playing beside the water.
“We are particularly excited about the
wild dog findings in northern Kruger.
We’ve documented that there are more
wild dogs in this part of the park than was
previously thought, including a pack at
Shingwedzi and Vlakteplaas,” says Leah.
A 2014 paper co-authored by Sam esti-
mated there were a total of 20 wild dog
packs in the whole of Kruger or roughly
151 individuals, of which about 24 are in
the northern region of the park. “They’re
here, and yet the sightings in the north are
few and far between,” Leah notes.
Their systematic sampling method
means that whatever predators there are in
northern Kruger, Kris and Leah will find
them, although their focus is on wild dogs,
cheetah and lions. Together, they have
walked over 850 km in this section of the
DIANNE TIPPING-WOODS, jennifer hartman
park and about 5 000 km over the course
of their project. In northern Kruger alone,
they have collected over 250 lion samples,
150 cheetah samples and 300 wild dog
samples. It’s one of the biggest surveys ever
conducted on foot.
 Leah’s boots may be
her most important
equipment given how
much she walks.

Leah’s honed her skills working

in some of the world’s most
remote and wild places.

Left: In order to find

evidence of apex
predators, Leah and
Kristoffer have learnt
to read tracks. Right:
The research shows
that lions use both

JOHANNES VAN NIEKERK

sides of the border.
Below: Jennifer Hart-
man looks after track-
ing dog Scooby.
 people in parks
“Excitingly, we are beginning to see
clear patterns emerging between our find-
ings on the Mozambican side and north-
ern Kruger. It is clear that several lion
prides and wild dog packs are using both
sides of the border,” says Kris.
The genetic analysis of their scats will
show which groups of carnivores are
related, what they ate, their gender and
reproductive health, and a host of other
information. “The mystery in northern
Kruger is why there are less wild dogs
than one might expect, given the habitat,”
says Leah.
The answer might lie in their trans-
boundary territories. As wide-roaming,
subordinate predators, wild dogs do well
in areas such as Limpopo National Park
with good prey availability and lower lion
densities, which are around seven lions
per 100 square kilometres in northern
Kruger and one lion per 100 square kilo­
metres in Limpopo National Park. But
they are susceptible to what are known
as edge effects, changes in population or
community structures that occur where
habitats meet. This is important because
while the wild dogs may not see the dif-
ferences in habitat quality between Kruger
and Limpopo National Parks, these differ-
ences could be affecting the population.
“The habitat in Limpopo National Park
may look good to them, with low lion
densities and abundant prey, but they’re
also exposed to human-induced threats
such as snares in areas where there is
a lot of bush meat poaching,” Leah ex-
plains. If wild dogs and other predators
are being drawn into habitat in Limpopo
because it appears ideal, but are suffer-
ing higher than normal mortality due
to human impacts, it could be draining
northern Kruger populations. This effect
is known as an ecological trap. “We will
Share your sightings
Have you encountered wild dogs, lions or cheetahs north of Kruger’s Shingwedzi Camp?
Send your pictures to wilddigital@tipafrica.co.za and we will share in our gallery.
52 WILD AUTUMN 2016
be able to determine if this is the case by
understanding predator habitat-selection
patterns and by tracking recent gene
movements from DNA obtained in the
scats,” explains Leah.
In addition to scat samples, Kris and
Leah also use camera traps and spoor
sampling. “We’ve initiated GPS tracking
of lion prides that move across boundar-
ies within the GLTFCA. This shows lion-
esses crossing back and forth through the
Mozambique-South Africa border fence,”
says Kris.
He is an adept tracker, and I join him
on another section close to the Shin-
gwedzi River, where he is recording the
detection or non-detection of all mammal
spoor per kilometre within a randomly
selected sample grid. We find nyala, leo­
pard and hyena tracks and startle some
impala. As they scatter gracefully among
the flowering mopane pomegranates, I
wonder if there are any predators in the
vicinity. ”We’ve had exciting encounters,”
Kris concedes as we find the spoor of a
lioness with a cub. “If we were to walk
into anything, it would be here,” he says,
pointing out a shady, sheltered spot close
to a pool of water in a drainage line. Sure
enough, when we go down to take a look,
we see the remains of a buffalo kill and
signs of lion activity.
Back at the research camp, the weather
has been wet and the wild dog scats we
collected need careful handling. “It’s not
glamorous,” Leah laughs as she removes
her gloves.
She’s restless in camp, eager to get back
into the field despite the damp weather.
“Our research is starting to show the
massive potential of conservation efforts
within the Great Limpopo Transfrontier
Conservation Area,” says Leah. “As big as
Kruger is, it’s not big enough.”
/
 Together, Kris and
Leah have walked over
850 km in this section
of the park.
DIANNE TIPPING-WOODS

ON TRACK
Leah and Kris
are adept track-
ers, looking for
evidence of apex
predators.
www.wildcard.co.za
 FIND US ON
FACEBOOK
AND TWITTER

Olifants Wilderness Trail

Kruger Wilderness Trails

Wilderness Bushmans metsi-metsi napi wilderness nyalaland olifants
trails: overnight wilderness trail wilderness trail trail wilderness trail wilderness trail
in rustic base camp,
catering provided. See well-preserved Explore the Lidanda This Green Flag trail Walk among Dramatic scenery
San rock art and Plains in search of offers the chance baobabs, discover provides the back-
Backpack trails: climb koppies to big game and fierce of rare antelope stone ruins and drop for birding and
wild camping, own scan for wildlife. predators. sightings. learn about fossils. game viewing.
catering and equip- 16 Jan. to 15 Dec. 16 Jan. to 15 Dec. 16 Jan. to 15 Dec. 16 Jan. to 15 Dec. 16 Jan. to 15 Dec.
ment. No under-12s. R4 300 a person. R4 300 a person. R4 300 a person. R4 300 a person. R4 300 a person.
Departs from Departs from Departs from Departs from Departs from
Berg-en-Dal. Skukuza. Pretoriuskop. Punda Maria. Olifants.

| Rates valid until 31 October 2016 |

 Take a walk on the wild side visit www.sanparks.org
or www.sanparks.mobi

sweni Wolhuter lonely bull mphongolo olifants river

wilderness trail wilderness trail backpack trail backpack trail backpack trail
Marvel at masses Kruger’s first wilder- Hike and camp Experience the Fit nature lovers will
of plains game and ness trail winds along the Letaba park’s most remote love this challenging
the animals that through a spectacu- River, a paradise wilderness zone overnight trail along
hunt them. lar landscape. for elephants. and look for buffalo. the river.
16 Jan. to 15 Dec. 16 Jan. to 15 Dec. 1 Feb. to 30 Nov. 1 Feb. to 30 Nov. 1 Apr. to 31 Oct.
STEPHEN CUNLIFFE

R4 300 a person. R4 300 a person. R2 500 a person. R2 500 a person. R2 500 a person.
Departs from Departs from Departs from Departs from Departs from
Satara. Berg-en-Dal. Mopani. Shimuwini. Olifants.

| Reservations (012) 428 9111 or e-mail reservations@sanparks.org |

 BIOLOGY

The
sound of
music
What does a symphony orchestra have in
common with a muddy pool in the Bushveld
after a good summer shower? Both are
brimming with musicians! By Megan Emmett

Every year classical

music is performed
B. Louw

at exclusive concerts
held in Kruger.

B aroque in the Bush is a sublime weekend of live

baroque music performed against an evocative bush
backdrop by a 16-piece ensemble, the Johannesburg
Festival Orchestra, under the direction of Richard Cock.
This event has been held at Shingwedzi Camp in Kruger
National Park annually since 1994 and is sold out a year in
advance due to its popularity.
The musical genius of Bach and Vivaldi performed live
in the bush fits because nature is full of music. Much of
what goes on in the bush is vocal or audio, sometimes at
frequencies we humans can’t hear. Although not every-
SCOTT RAMSAY

thing is melodious, somehow the combination of all man-

ner of sounds produces the sweetest music.

www.wildcard.co.za AUTUMN 2016 WILD 57

 biology

In the early morning, the air is still and sound

travels best, so the dawn chorus, the first and most
intense burst of birdcalls, can be overwhelming.
The soloists
Some animals are certainly less melodic
in their vocalisations than others and the
hippo is a case in point. But what they
lack in harmonies, they make up for in
the enthusiasm with which they honk out
their territorial tunes. Each hippo pod
is dominated by a bull that will fiercely
defend his turf, a decent piece of riverside
real estate, because good water means a
good chance of survival and lots of cows!
So, a bull is not shy to continually remind
contenders and pod members alike who
is boss with those iconic hippo honks we
all know so well.
Part of this regular reminder is also
non-vocal. A hippo opening its mouth in
a yawn is not doing vocal warm-up exer-
cises, but posturing to display its defensive
weaponry to any nearby territorial con-
tenders. The lower and upper tusks, which
reach up to 50 cm in the largest bulls, grow
exceptionally sharp articulating against
each other.
The most soul-rendering refrain of the
African nightscape is arguably the roar of
a lion, a far-reaching proclamation of terri-
tory or a summons to rally other members
of the pride. Lions recognise individual
roars and will respond to one another if
it is relevant to do so. They roar at night
predominantly because this is when they
are most active and also because the air
is stiller and sound carries further, up to
seven kilometres.
The reverberating boom that emanates
from a lion’s chest is produced from an ap-
paratus unique to lions and leopards, the
suspensorium. This is a ‘voice box’ device
at the top of the windpipe, but instead of
being ossified in place like the larynxes
of other species, it is suspended with carti-
lage. This allows for movement of the
suspensorium, thereby amplifying vibra-
tions caused during vocalisation, making
the resultant sound louder and projecting
it further. Young nomads not yet in the
running tend to remain silent as they have
to fly under the radar to remain alive.
The ensemble
When it comes to music, birds generally
steal the show. In the early morning, the
air is still and sound travels best, so the
dawn chorus, the first and most intense
burst of birdcalls made by diurnal species,
can be overpowering. Every bird individu-
ally screams out its territorial advertise-
ments, yet somehow the result is simply
awe-inspiring.
Richard Cock might tell you it doesn’t
work that way with instruments, there’s
a lot more fine-tuning and co-ordination
involved with producing the perfect sound
an orchestra makes. In tune or not, the
musical sounds that emanate from the
Bushveld menagerie are unique commu-
nication strategies to send important mes-
sages to one another.
The passerines, or perching birds,
are typically the songbirds and have the
broadest range of songs. Some species
boast up to 15 calls. But what’s the purpose
of all the noise? Every species, individual
or pair is claiming territorial ownership
of their stamp of turf, like that hippo bull,

25
Number of different vocalisations made by the lesser bushbaby, including
various clicks, chatters, whistles and screeches. They are also adept at chem-
ical communication and males particularly wash their feet with their own urine
in order to spread their scent wherever they go. This is a territorial marker for
others and creates a degree of social cohesion in a shared home range.

58 WILD AUTUMN 2016

 If it was a musician, the crested barbet would
likely be a didgeridoo player as it maintains an
incredibly sustained call.

Reportedly the call of

the crested barbet can
last up to five minutes.

and neighbours advertise and remind each

another of their presence in an area after a
long quiet night. The exercise is then re-
peated pre-dusk as a final statement before
dark falls.
Birds vocalise extensively between pairs.
Many birds are monogamous and rein-
force their pair bond by calling together;
for example, the cooing of doves or the
recognisable “du-poodley” duet of the
black-collared barbet.
It is, however, the cousin of the black-
collared barbet that can be attributed with
the greatest of bird vocalisations, if not
in sound then in endurance. If it was a
musician, the crested barbet would likely
be a didgeridoo player as it maintains an
incredibly sustained call. Birds use a syr-
inx to vocalise, a cartilaginous device at
the base of their windpipes but above the
lungs. A bronchial tube from each lung at-
taches to the syrinx with openings manip-
ulated by fleshy membranes. To call, the
bird contracts its lungs sending a jet of air
through the syrinx and thereafter controls
the pitch and tone by vibrating the fleshy
membranes. The crested barbet sustains
its jackhammer-like call by vocalising with
one tube and breathing with the other.
Other species produce complicated
tunes by using both tubes simultaneously,
generating different sounds from each
side. The fork-tailed drongo is one such
soloist, often even mimicking the sounds
of other birds to impress females, who
subscribe to the rule of thumb that the
more complex the mimicked song, the
more genetically superior its singer.

14
Number of calls made by hyenas, including grunts, groans, lowing, snarling, yells and
whines. Hyenas live in clans but hunt alone, so long-distance communication is essential. The charac­
teristic ‘whoop’ is a contact call recognised by all clan members that advertises territory or rallies
members to a large meal. The notorious giggled vocalisation, made while feeding together on a kill, is a
sign of deference or uttered during hysterical encounters with lions.

www.wildcard.co.za AUTUMN 2016 WILD 59

 biology

A cicada may be small but it

Deafening choruses produces a big sound.

are performed
by impromptu
flash mobs.
The noise makers
Some birds are not particularly accom-
plished songsters, and lilac-breasted
rollers, as a case in point, can’t produce
much in the way of a tune at all. So they
make up for their musical ineptitude
with a visual performance as dazzling
as their vivid colours. An elaborate air-
show sees them flying to an invisible
summit before descending in a loop as if
on a roller-coaster, rocking and rolling
side to side on the homecoming stretch,
all the while squawking raucous declara-
tions of their prowess.
The amphibian occupants of a puddle
work as an atonal antiphony. Also known
as timeshare calling, antiphony is prac-
tised by species such as painted reed frogs.
What happens is that semi-independent
choirs of sound alternate to allow the
notes of the other to come through. In
frog terms, this is critical because if all
the males croak out their romantic love
chants simultaneously, the females won’t
know where to find a specific individual.
Small padded toes allow these tiny yet
delightfully multi-coloured critters, whose
calls are surprisingly loud and piping,
to climb to the tip-tops of reeds fringing
temporary waterholes where the whistled
serenades echo furthest. So in demand are
the best of these sites that they are de-
fended from competitors with determined
kicking and wrestling if need be.
When cicadas crawl from their un-
derground incubators to sing for their
lives, deafening choruses are performed
by impromptu flash mobs. The calls are
produced by the males that rally together
to attract female cicadas to the area. They
emerge from the soil in early November
and climb up trees to ecdyse [shed their
exoskeletons – Ed.] for a final time, trans-
forming from their last nymphal stage into
adults.
Their musical tool of the trade is a cavity
positioned on either side of the abdo-
men, which comprises a convex tymbal,
or sound-producing membrane, to which
a muscle connects. This muscle contracts
or relaxes to move the tymbal in and out,
producing an effect similar to popping
the lid of a paint tin in and out. Folded
membranes in the cavity and a structure
called the mirror amplify the sound, which
resonates within the cavity at frequencies
up to 7 000 hz.
So then, what is all the noise about?
Beneath the tranquillity of the Bushveld’s
musical sounds, ultimately a widespread
conversation about sex and food is taking
place. This situation is really not much
different to humans who find romance in
listening to an orchestral performance,
enjoyed over a hearty dinner. Both are in
abundance at Baroque in the Bush.
/

Senses and sensibilities

The sounds and the smells of the bush offer a thrilling sensory experience and according to Chris
Patton, Project Manager: SANParks Strategic Tourism Services, every national park in South Africa
has some level of accessibility. “The natural terrain of park environments can present certain bar-
riers. But at some level it is always possible to provide a way of seeing, feeling, hearing, smelling,
tasting or simply experiencing aspects of a national park. In general, the healing and spiritual power
of being in nature are some of the main attractions,” Patton says.

For more information about national parks that cater to visitors with special needs, go to
www.wildcard.co.za and type “Universal access” in the search box.

60 WILD AUTUMN 2016

 Semi-independent choirs
of sound alternate to allow
the notes of the other to
come through.

ACTUAL SIZE

The call of the

SCOTT RAMSAY

painted reed frog

sounds similar to a
finch’s whistle.

Bush concerts
Baroque in the Bush Held at Kruger’s
Shingwedzi Rest Camp every September.
http://www.montybrett.com/baroque-in-the-bush
SANParks Honorary Rangers’ Sunset
Serenade Performed at bush venues near
Mopani Rest Camp in Kruger. Two events organ-
ised to raise funds for counter poaching.
B. LOUW

www.sanparksvolunteers.org/events/546-
sunset2016

www.wildcard.co.za AUTUMN 2016 WILD 61

 nature

More like creatures than

plants, mushrooms prevent
the world from being one

Mushroom
large rubbish dump.
By Morgan Trimble

mysteries
62 WILD AUTUMN 2016
 GOLDEN JELLY
The gelatinous
Dale Morris

flesh of Dacryo­
pinax spathularia
is edible and is
used in Chinese
cuisine.
www.wildcard.co.za
 nature
A
clutch of eggs lies nestled
among the Tsitsikamma
Forest’s damp leaf-litter. In
slow motion, a red arm rips
through one shell. Another
arm pokes out, then another. Hours pass
as tentacle-like appendages creep through
the torn shell. Eventually, they open into
a starfish shape coated in brown sludge,
reeking of a cross between a cadaver and
faeces. Flies swarm to the stench.
This malodorous red starfish, known as
the stinkhorn, is neither animal nor alien.
It’s a mushroom. The foul-smelling slime
is a cunning plot to enlist flies for spore-
spreading duty. Though the stinkhorn
seems more creature than plant, it’s actu-
ally neither. Fungi have their own biologi-
cal kingdom with an estimated 1,5 million
species. That’s more than the vertebrates
and plants combined.
Along with bacteria, fungi are the
Earth’s major decomposers. They prevent
dead material from piling up by recycling
it into components they and other organ-
isms can use. “Without fungi any ecosys-
tem would collapse,” explains Marieka
Gryzenhout, lecturer and mycologist at
the University of the Free State. “Fungi
form beneficial relationships with plants
to aid growth or break down organic
material, for example wood, one of the
toughest materials on Earth. Animals and
insects eat fungi, too.”
Unlike photosynthetic plants, fungi
are heterotrophs, unable to produce their
own energy to grow so they always live in
relationship with other organisms. Most
get their energy by releasing digestive en-
zymes into the substrate around them and
absorbing food.
Of South Africa’s estimated 172 000
64 WILD AUTUMN 2016
A spore print is created by
cutting the cap off and plac-
ing it gill-side down on a piece
of paper. The cap is covered
with a cup to let the print
develop overnight.
species, Marieka approximates that two-
thirds are miniscule. Yeasts, moulds,
mildews and rusts that find niches in soil,
plants, water, animals and neglected take-
away containers in the back of fridges.
Though microfungi are ecologically and
economically important, the macrofungi
we know as ‘mushrooms’ are downright
captivating. Pick an adjective: deadly,
tasty, glow-in-the-dark, medicinal, ink-
filled, gelatinous, umbrella-sized.
Though mushrooms emerge, seemingly,
out of nowhere, they’re fruiting bodies
of a larger fungal organism, the bulk of
which is practically invisible to the un-
trained eye. It’s called mycelium, a web of
strands networking among nutrients be-
neath the surface. While mushrooms are
ephemeral, often lasting just a day or two,
mycelium can be hundreds of years old
and stretch to multiple square kilometres.
When conditions allow, the mycelium
develops mushrooms that pop up through
the soil or grow as brackets on wood.
Their job is to bear and release millions
of spores, some of which will land in a
favourable spot, create new mycelium and
eventually produce mushrooms. A recent
study suggests airborne spores may even
help bring rain!
Under-appreciated and undescribed
The relationships between fungi and ani-
mals can be astonishing. In The Soul of
the White Ant, Eugene Marais describes
how termites maintain precise conditions
of moisture and fertiliser in special cham-
bers of their mounds to cultivate fungi,
even during droughts. The gardens form
the “stomach and liver of the composite
DALE MORRIS
animal”, providing food and helping regu-
late temperature.
Fungi have their own biological kingdom with an
estimated 1,5 million species, more than the vertebrates
and plants combined.

ALERT
UPSIDE-DOWN
Don’t forage for mushrooms in protected UMBRELLAS
areas, national parks or reserves. Under a mush­
room’s cap are
the gills where
their spores are
formed.
AUTUMN 2016 WILD XX
 nature

Fungi are the Earth’s major

decomposers, preventing
dead material from piling
up by recycling it.

66 WILD AUTUMN 2016

 DARK STAR
The evoca­
SCOTT RAMSAY

tively named star

stinkhorn has a
putrid scent that
attracts flies to
disperse spores.
www.wildcard.co.za
 nature
Occasionally, the termites’ fungal gar-
dens produce large mushrooms that spring
through the top of the mound, spreading
spores and providing an annual reminder
of the termitary’s incredible subterranean
symbiosis. Look for this special phenom-
enon after summer rains in the bushveld
where termitomyces species, such as the
dinner-plate-sized beefsteak mushroom or
‘I’kowe’, seem to appear overnight.
Despite their essential role in the en-
vironment, mushrooms are incredibly
poorly known. Marieka explains: “Most of
the mushrooms people encounter during
walks, in plantations or in their gardens
are introduced species. They have special
relationships with non-native plants with
which they are associated. They also tend
to be the mushrooms with names because
they are known elsewhere, whereas our
native fungi are often unnamed.”
Some common fungi naturally have
a global distribution, while others were
moved by humans. Often, we can’t tell the
difference. How invasive are introduced
fungi? Do they displace native species?
“Only by studying the distributions of our
fungi can we figure this out. We need to
know what we have in the first place, and
we don’t. There are so many species, where
do you start?”
With most species still undescribed, we
have a poor grasp of their conservation
status. Fungi are almost never included in
biodiversity data or conservation plans.
“The biggest threat to fungi is ignorance
and, after that, a lack of data and human
capital working on fungal biodiversity
and conservation,” says Marieka. “Habitat
destruction, removal of substrates such
as wood, and over harvesting of edible
mushrooms are other threats.” Protected
areas are important. “With each piece of
natural veld that disappears, an unknown
number of our native fungi could also
disappear, and we may never really know
what was there.”
/
68 WILD AUTUMN 2016
How to ID a mushroom
You needn’t be a professional mycologist to contrib-
ute to the MushroomMAP, a citizen science project
contained within the Virtual Museum of the Animal
Demography Unit at the University of Cape Town. Re-
searcher Megan Loftie-Eaton explains: “Members of
the public upload their photos to the Virtual Museum,
along with the date and location details. In this way
we are building up accurate distribution maps for a
whole host of species, which is the first step towards
proper biodiversity conservation.”
When you find a mushroom, note the location and
take photos that show all the angles. Then navigate
to MushroomMAP at http://vmus.adu.org.za/ to
upload your sighting. The Mushrooms of Southern
Africa Facebook group is a handy source for help with
identifying specimens.
If you can’t identify a mushroom, don’t despair.
You can still upload your sighting and let Mushroom-
MAP’s panel of experts take a crack at identifying
it. If your sighting stumps the experts, congratula-
tions, perhaps you’ve discovered a new mushroom
MORGAN TRIMBLE
altogether. Citizen scientists have confirmed two
fascinating species in South Africa for the first time, a
gigantic mushroom from St Lucia and a vivid but tiny
‘all-blue agaric’ in the Drakensberg.
Read more
Pocket Guide to Mushrooms of South Africa by
Marieka Gryzenhout (R140, Struik Nature) describes
over 115 mushroom species found locally.
First Field Guide to Mushrooms of Southern Africa
(R65, Struik Nature) introduces 44 species of mush-
room and is suitable for children.
RIAAN VERMEULEN
BEST FRIENDS When fungi team up with a
photosynthetic partner such as green algae or
bacteria, a composite organism, lichen, is cre­
ated. The algae provides various nutrients to the
fungus, in exchange it receives water which pre­
vents it from drying out. This symbiotic relation­
ship enables lichens to survive in harsh places
MARIEKa GRYZENHOUT
such as deserts and the pole regions, where they
play a pioneer role in stabilising and preparing
the substrate for other organisms.
 In this detail shot,
a bracket fungus
almost looks like the
rings of a tree.

It’s clear why Cyatus olla is

also known as the grey-egg
bird’s nest fungus.
MARIEKa GRYZENHOUT

The distinctive ‘fingers’

of Xylaria sp.

www.wildcard.co.za AUTUMN 2016 WILD 69

 BIOLOGY

We need to better understand

why climate change is posing a
threat to fynbos birds.

A ROCK AND A
HARD PLACE
Numbers of the
Cape rockjumper
have fallen by
30%, a dramatic
decrease.
XX WILD AUTUMN 2016
 heat
Body
Seven birds that live in South Africa’s
fynbos are found nowhere else in the
world, but their numbers are falling.
Could rising temperatures be behind their
decline? By Susie Cunningham
T
he Fynbos Biome, clinging to the
flanks of the spectacular Cape
Fold Mountains and neighbour-
ing plains, is internationally
important. World famous for a floral
diversity comparable to the Amazon Rain-
forest, the fynbos is also home to seven
endemic bird species – six passerines and
one enigmatic buttonquail – found no-
where else on Earth. A significant number
of ecotourists come expressly to see these
special birds and their habitat.
But all is not well in the fynbos. Sci-
entists have predicted that its unique
plants and birds are likely to be especially
vulnerable to climate warming and, un-
fortunately, data seems to be bearing these
predictions out. Weather-station records
show unequivocally that temperatures in
the fynbos have increased since the 1960s.
Mountain regions show the fastest rates
of warming. The endemic birds, including
the glamorous orange-breasted sunbird,
iconic Cape sugarbird and charismatic
Cape rockjumper, are in trouble.
The most up-to-date information from
GURU
Susan Cunningham is the Southern African Bird Atlas Project
a lecturer at the Percy reveals all six fynbos-endemic passerines
FitzPatrick Institute have recently disappeared from some parts
DAVE DE BEER
of African Ornithology of their former ranges. Four are now seen
at the University of
less frequently in the areas where they do
Cape Town.
www.wildcard.co.za
still persist. Atlas reporting rates of Cape
rockjumpers and protea seedeaters have
both dropped by more than 30 per cent.
If we lose these birds from the fynbos, we
lose them forever.
The declines of fynbos birds appear
to be linked to recent climate change. In
areas where it has warmed most, the birds
have shown greatest losses. The big ques-
tion is why? One answer might seem obvi-
ous: they simply can’t handle the heat.
Birds, like us, can cool down when it’s
hot by evaporating water, called ‘evapora-
tive cooling’. We do this by sweating; birds
by panting or ‘gular flutter’, vibrating the
membranes of their throat. Birds can also
let their body temperature rise a little
when the going gets hot, to maintain a
gradient between body and environment
for heat loss.
Both of these strategies are risky. Too
much water loss could leave a bird dan-
gerously dehydrated, while losing control
of body temperature rise can be fatal. So
birds in very hot places live life in a deli-
cate dance, switching between doing the
things they need in order to stay alive,
find a mate and breed, and sitting still in
the shade to avoid triggering their cooling
mechanisms.
Could it be that birds living in naturally
AUTUMN 2016 WILD 71
 BIOLOGY
Vital statistics
Body mass Almost always affects the thermal phy­
siology of animals.
Evaporative cooling Evaporating water from your
body surface is a good way to keep cool because when
water evaporates it uses up heat energy. We do this by
sweating, birds by panting or gular fluttering, although
some doves evaporate water across their skin surface
very efficiently.

cooler places, such as mountain fynbos, Air temperature threshold Air temperature threshold
might not know how to strike this balance for evaporative cooling for body temperature rise
effectively in the face of climate warming?
A team of scientists from the University Cape
sugarbird 36 g Protea
seedeater Seri­ 20 g
of Cape Town, the South African National Promerops cafer BODY MASS nus leucopterus BODY MASS
Biodiversity Institute and Nelson Man-
dela Metropolitan University set out to 39oC 39oC
test whether this was really so. They also 35 C 31 C
o o
BODY TEMP. 34 C 31 C
o o
BODY TEMP.

theorised that thermal tolerances of birds

living there might be quite low because
the fynbos has been climatically stable for
a very long time.

WARWICK TARBOTON
They captured six to 10 individuals of
each of the six fynbos-endemic passerines
and put them through their paces in a
portable temperature-controlled chamber.
They monitored the birds carefully, look-
ing for the temperature thresholds at SABAP population trend SABAP population trend
Overall reporting rates stable >30% reduction in overall re­
which their physiological cooling respons- or slight increase, range con­ porting rate, range contracting.
es kicked in. The birds were all released tracting. Conclusion In trouble but
again shortly thereafter, unharmed. Conclusion Thermal toler­ not because of low thermal
Of all the birds they tested, only one, ance is not linked to decline. tolerance.
the Cape rockjumper, showed really low
thermal tolerances for a bird of its size.
Cape rockjumpers appear to be in real
Victorin’s
warbler 17 g Cape siskin
Pseudochloroptila 13 g
Bradypterus BODY MASS totta BODY MASS
trouble. Their numbers are declining fast, victorini
especially high in the mountains where 40oC 40oC
temperatures are warming rapidly. As BODY TEMP. BODY TEMP.
mountain specialists already, there is no- 35oC unclear 36oC 34oC
where higher or cooler for them to go.
Masters student Krista Oswald is now
studying the thermal flexibility of Cape
rockjumpers to see if there is any hope
they might be able to adapt to a warm-
MIKE BUCKHAM

ing climate. It seems true they simply

shutterstock

can’t handle the heat and it isn’t clear if

there is any way we can help them, ex-
cept by fighting to keep climate change
under control. SABAP population trend SABAP population trend
But what about the other five species? Overall reporting rates stable 5% decline in overall reporting
or increasing, but range con­ rates, range contracting.
There is scant evidence to suggest that
tracting. Conclusion No evidence
climate change is forcing any of them to Conclusion Thermal toler­ decline is due to low thermal
push their thermal boundaries. So why ance is not linked to decline. tolerance.

72 WILD AUTUMN 2016

 If we lose these birds from the
fynbos, we lose them forever.

Orange
breasted 9g
sunbird BODY MASS
Anthobaphes
violacea 40oC
BODY TEMP.

37oC 35oC

SABAP population trend

10% decline in overall reporting
rates, range contracting.
Conclusion No evidence decline
is due to low thermal tolerance.

Cape
Rockjumper 54 g
Chaetops frenatus BODY MASS

39oC
BODY TEMP.
31oC 32oC
DAVE DE BEER

SABAP population trend

>30% reduction in overall report­
ing rate, range contracting. MOUNTAIN
Conclusion In trouble. Low SPECIALIST
MIKE BUCKHAM

The Cape rock­

thermal tolerance combined jumper’s habitat
with climate warming is of high peaks is
likely to blame. becoming too
warm.
www.wildcard.co.za
 BIOLOGY

are their numbers declining and how bad

is it?
Some species, for example Victorin’s
warbler and the Cape sugarbird, seem
to be hanging on for now, despite losses
in territory. But there are signs that the
numbers of orange-breasted sunbirds and
Cape siskins are beginning to slip, and
the situation looks especially bad for the
protea seedeater. This species is declining
as rapidly as the Cape rockjumper and in
future it may need conservation action if
it is to survive.
If we want to keep the wonderful and
unique birds of the fynbos, we need to
better understand why climate change is
posing a threat to them. Temperatures are
warming and the birds are declining but,
except for the Cape rockjumper, it seems
low thermal tolerance is not to blame. It
could be that changed fire regimes, linked
to changes in the climate, are altering their
habitat in a way they can’t survive. Or per-
haps changes are occurring in the timing
The Cape sugar­ of flowering and seeding or in the abun-
bird’s range is
shrinking but dance of insects or predators, and these
numbers seem are affecting the birds. The race is now on
stable for now.
to find out before it is too late.
/

Find out more

This study was published in the scientific journal Conserva­
tion Physiology, which can be downloaded free at Use your Wild Card to
http://conphys.oxfordjournals.org/content/3/1/cov048.full find fynbos endemics
Kogelberg Nature Reserve All seven
Southern African Bird Atlas Project (SABAP) is a citizen
fynbos endemics, including the Hotten­
scientist-driven research programme monitoring changes tot buttonquail, have been reported.
in bird abundance across Southern Africa. The second Bird
Atlas project is now under way (SABAP2). Data collected Cederberg and Groot Winterhoek
Wilderness Areas Great places for
for SABAP2 can be compared to SABAP1 (1997) to reveal
spotting Cape rockjumper.
increases, declines and changes in distribution of Southern
African birds. To learn more, or to become a contributor, Table Mountain National Park
visit www.sabap2.adu.org.za. Look out for Cape sugarbird, orange-
breasted sunbird and Cape siskin.

74 WILD AUTUMN 2016

There are signs
that the numbers
of orange-breasted
sunbirds are
beginning to slip.

PRECARIOUS
ALBERT FRONEMAN

Orange-breasted
sunbirds, closely
associated
with proteas,
are starting to
disappear.
 Balancing
ACT In a traditional way of life, the bounty of the veld is
used sustainably. Conservation is key at the Basotho
Cultural Village in Golden Gate, and adds to the
park’s unique attractions. By Marion Whitehead

76 WILD AUTUMN 2016


A true traditional healer is also a conservationist.
T
he park is slap bang between
the affluent town of Clar-
ens and poverty-stricken
QwaQwa, so we are trying
to find a balance for local
economic development,” said Victor
Mokoena, acting manager of Golden Gate
Highlands National Park and regional
tourism and marketing manager for
SANParks’ northern cluster.
The Basotho Cultural Village and Mu-
seum occupies a natural terrace tucked
under one of the distinctive sandstone
koppies in the eastern section of Golden
Gate Highlands National Park, in what
DALE MORRIS
was QwaQwa Nature Reserve before be-
ing incorporated in 2009. It faces north
www.wildcard.co.za
Heritage
towards distant mauve mountains, over-
looking a natural basin that is one of the
best places in the park to observe plains
game grazing peacefully, as I discovered
sitting on the stoep of my comfortable
rondavel that evening.
It’s a prime example of SANParks hap-
pily co-existing with a local community
and providing opportunities in tourism
as well as a unique visitor attraction. The
staff of 44, including those servicing the
self-catering rondavels, come to work
each day from nearby Phuthaditjhaba.
Our tour with guide Rantseke Rantseke
was entertaining and informative.
“Loadshedding is not something new
for us,” he said, pointing out how well
AUTUMN 2016 WILD 77
 Heritage
insulated the traditional mud-walled huts
with their thatch are; naturally cool in
summer, warm in winter. Spiral aloes, a
medicinal plant and the national flower
of Lesotho, were next in his humorous
commentary. “See how the male grows
clockwise from outside, and the female
anti-clockwise? They’re just like us: men
think clockwise and women the opposite,”
he joked.
Our museum tour proceeded from the
chief ’s hut to those of his three wives,
where staff play the roles of the wives,
depicting life in the 16th, 17th and 18th
centuries. The ‘first wife’ demonstrated
how women’s dress has changed from the
16th century to the present day, dressing
a volunteer from our group first in a girl’s
string skirt, then a longer skirt and cape
for when married. In the next hut, we
tasted an energy food made from freshly
ground sweetcorn.
In the third hut, Rantseke explained
the symbols on Basotho blankets. “Each
clan has an animal totem, for instance
King Moshoeshoe’s was the Bakoena or
crocodile. The crown represents Queen
Victoria, the stripes a flowing river, which
is why they’re always vertical.”
Like our guide, the traditional healers
are the real deal. The Southern Sotho
have lived in this area for hundreds of
years and learnt to use the bounty of the
veld sustainably, whether it’s medicinal
plants or thatching grass for roofing and
kraal walls. Keletso Sello and his col-
league, Thabo Mathobisa, trained for
years after being called to their profession
and have an in-depth knowledge of the
Trip Planner
Getting there Golden Gate Highlands National
Park is around 3,5 hours’ drive from Johannesburg,
Durban and Bloemfontein.
Accommodation The rest camp is in the style of
an 18th century Basotho village, but the rondavels
feature modern conveniences. Rates start at R755
for two people a night, R220 an extra adult, R110 an
extra child. The nearby Golden Gate Hotel and Glen
Reenen Rest Camp also offer accommodation.
78 WILD AUTUMN 2016
veld and its medicinal plants. Some
plants are grown beside the huts.
“The root of this African potato
boosts the immune system,” said Tha-
bo, pointing to a plant with long hairy
leaves. A true traditional healer is also
a conservationist, he explained. “This
mountain cabbage tree here is very
special and we are careful to harvest
only a little, without damaging the
tree.” He pointed to two small holes in
the bark where he had extracted a little
of the core. “When we need the root of
a tree, we cut a small piece so we don’t
harm it.”
Muti collectors, however, are often in
it just for the money and will strip the
veld without thought of regeneration of
plant material. Thabo supports SAN-
Parks’ system of permits for collection
of herbs and plants.
Traditional healers are required to
provide SANParks with their certifi-
cates when applying for a permit to
harvest medicinal herbs. “We look at
the plant type requested and, if it’s on
the Red Data list, we explain to the ap-
plicant why permits for these plants
are not given,” said Victor. Resource
harvesting and utilisation permits are
also necessary for those wanting to
cut thatch grass and the grass used to
weave the characteristic Basotho hats.
Interacting with the traditional heal-
ers is a highlight on tours of the village.
Visitors can book consultations or a
guided walk on the short Matlakeng
Herbal Trail leading into the mountains
behind the village.
/
Activities The two-hour
Herbal Trail is offered Tues-
day to Thursday, R40 a per-
son. The Cultural Route lasts
seven hours and costs R40
a person, also Tuesday to Thursday. The 45-minute
Marion whitehead
Museum Tour runs daily, R40 a person.
Contact Bookings 012-428-9111, www.sanparks.org
Basotho Cultural Village 058-721-0300
 African sage

Healing plants
Pointing out a spotted
aloe, its leaves nibbled
by winter frost and
grazing antelope, tra-
ditional healer Keletso
Sello at the Basotho
Cultural Village and
Museum explained
how he used it to heal
ulcers. “And if you have
a cut, put the gel from
inside the leaf on it to
ABOVE: Traditional healer Keletso Sello points out an aloe, one of the plants the help it heal. It will also
Basotho use for medicinal purposes. BELOW: A tour through the cultural village is an take the pain away.”
opportunity to enjoy traditional music and food.
A tea of wild sage
leaves is good for
high blood pressure.
Buddleja salviifolia
grows prolifically along
the river courses in
the park and the hardy
plant is widespread in
the east and south of
South Africa. In spring,
the flowers range from
creamy white to lilac.

Spotted aloe
www.wildcard.co.za
 SANCTUARY
The Heuningnes
Wetland in De
Mond supports
large numbers of
wading birds.

Sponge Water lilies Estuary Filter Kingfis

Purify Marshes Dragonflies Soak Egret
80 WILD AUTUMN 2016
 conservation

Healthy wetlands are spectacular

biodiversity hot spots and birding
paradises. Yet wetlands are one of the

Wet &
most threatened ecosystems globally.
SANParks and CapeNature are leading
the way with initiatives to conserve and

Wonderful
rehabilitate wetlands. By Ilse Bigalke

shers Peatlands Suck Turtles Wetlands

ts Catchment Ducks Tidal flats Herons
PETER CHADWICK

www.wildcard.co.za AUTUMN 2016 WILD 81

 CONSERVATION
A
ny idea where to find
the cleanest water in
the country? A recent
study of the Matlabas
wetland in Marakele
National Park in Lim-
popo revealed that the purity of its water
was nearly equal to that of distilled water.
“We have Wetlands are nature’s sponges, storing
to move water when it rains and releasing it in the
dry season. They also act as purifiers of
beyond the contaminated water through filtration and
conservation dissolution of chemicals.
of fauna to “The focus on fauna often detracts from
the ecosys- the importance of sustaining landscapes
tems and within and beyond park boundaries,” said
Piet-Louis Grundling, chairman of both
landscapes the SA Wetland Society and the Interna-
that support tional Mire Conservation Group.
them.” The Matlabas wetland is in the Water-
berg range in Marakele National Park, in
the headlands of an important catchment
for the Matlabas River, which plays a
crucial role in sustaining biodiversity in
the park. Marakele, the Tswana name for
‘Place of Sanctuary’, is a Big Five park with
a diversity varying from high cliffs, rolling
hills, bushveld and forests to wetlands. It
also houses South Africa’s second-largest
Cape vulture breeding site.
Piet-Louis was approached by SAN-
Parks to help assess the Matlabas wet-
lands and propose a management and
rehabilitation plan. He described the
functioning of Matla­bas as unique in
South Africa due to its peat domes,
which have amazing absorbing proper-
Wetlands to ties and can hold up to 1 000 times their
the rescue own weight in water. The study revealed
Benefits of
wetlands include: that the catchment is well conserved,
Reducing or prevent- but that erosion is threatening the future
ing flooding by slowing pristine existence of the western part of
down water movement the wetland.
Storing CO2 as carbon, “We suspect the erosion is due to pre-
thereby reducing vious farming activities, including over-
greenhouse gases grazing and possibly road construction,”
The survival of species
said Piet-Louis. Once erosion starts,
such as migratory water moves away faster and causes the
birds from across peat in this wetland to dry out, which
the globe is a real threat to the peat system as
82 WILD AUTUMN 2016
the area is prone to fires due to regular
thunderstorms.
To keep the Matlabas in sparkling
condition, the proposed management
plan has several stratagems. These in-
clude the building of rock weirs to stop
the erosion, stabilising the soil, restock-
ing disturbed areas with plants and
minimising water run-off so the ground-
water can recharge.
The conservation of wetland ecosys-
tems is a SANParks priority, said Nicholas
Cole, planning manager of Biodiversity
Social Projects. You can protect only
what you know exists, so the first step is
to create a wetland inventory: mapping,
identification and classification of fresh-
water ecosystem priority areas and inland
water layers. “The idea is to establish if
these areas are in fact wetlands, what type
of wetland they are and to ascertain their
health,” explained Nicholas. Only then can
they decide on which areas to prioritise
for rehabilitation and appropriate mea-
sures. “We have to move beyond the
conservation of fauna to the ecosystems
and landscapes that support them.”
In the Knysna section of the Garden
Route National Park wetlands are under
severe pressure. Over the past two de-
cades this area has boomed, with new
buildings and roads, as well as increased
farming activities. The result? Greater wa-
ter use and ongoing threats of pollution.
SANParks ecologists are using an app to
map these wetlands.
“The Cybertracker System is a hand-
held computer software app designed
for conservation purposes,” said regional
ecologist Jessica Hayes. “It is extremely
user friendly and by far the most effec-
tive way to gather large quantities of
geo-referenced data in the field. This
information can then be used for wetland
conservation planning and management.”
According to Jessica the immediate ob-
jective is to determine the location, size
and boundaries of the wetlands associ-
ated with rivers in the Knysna area and
their status.
 Water
Ramsar sites are diverse wetlands of international importance designated under the Ramsar
Convention on Wetlands, which took place in 1971 at the small Iranian town of Ramsar. The
Convention uses a broad definition of wetlands. It includes lakes and rivers, underground

Wise aquifers, swamps and marshes, wet grasslands, peatlands, oases, estuaries, deltas and tidal
flats, mangroves and other coastal areas, coral reefs, and all human-made sites such as fish
ponds, rice paddies, reservoirs and salt pans.

Marakele National
Park has the cleanest
water in the country,
thanks to its wetlands.
Claudia Paulussen / AAI PHOTOSTOCK

What’s happening at Heuningnes programme manager for CapeNature Plan of

De Mond Nature Reserve is home to the
Ramsar-designated Heuningnes wetland.
Birders flock to De Mond to enjoy large
numbers of waders visiting the estuary
mouth during the summer months. It is
also one the few significant breeding loca-
tions in South Africa for the Damara tern.
The CapeNature reserve lies within the
Agulhas Plain, where the diversity of habi-
tat types, wetland ecosystems, red data
plant species and locally endemic plants is
unmatched in the Cape Floral Kingdom.
Heuningnes is fed by two major tributar-
ies, the Nuwejaars and Kars rivers, which
create a huge catchment area and a vital
link to the coastal ecosystems.
“Management principles are being
developed to include mountain catch-
ments, rivers, wetlands and estuaries. A
scientific process is used to identify the
boundary of the catchment as well as the
flows required to sustain each part of the
catchment,” said Pierre de Villiers, coastal
and co-ordinator of the Western Cape action
Estuaries Programme.
2015/16 financial year
The health of the Heuningnes has bene-
fited from the transformation of the Agul- R12 million
has National Park into a mega-reserve, Budget for the Work-
which brought about formal conservation ing for Wetlands
programme by the
status to a much larger section of the
Department of Envi-
Agulhas Plain and includes the private ronmental Affairs
Nuwejaars Wetland Special Management
SANParks’ wetlands
Area. This consists of landowners and rehabilitation aims
communities living on 45 000 hectares of 2015/16 target
land that they’ve committed to conserva-
tion and sustainable farming. 16 128 m2
Wherever there has been an improve- 26 sites
ment in the health of a wetland, it is al- 2020 target
most always in one of the mega-reserves.
This conclusion was reached by Jenny
80 640 m2
Day, one of the researchers who took part 130 sites
in a major study by the Water Research
Commission to establish the status of 65
wetlands in the fynbos biome. It’s fantastic
news because it shows that establishing
these large reserves is working.

www.wildcard.co.za autumn 2016 WILD 83

 BOTANY

Gardenia nectar contains fragrant essential

oils, which attract insects for pollination.
Night-blooming species typically have white
blossoms that attract moths. Only long-
tongued hawkmoths can reach the copious
amounts of sweet nectar deep inside the
long floral tube.

Bushveld gardenia Gardenia volkensii

(bosveldkatjiepiering)
The Bushveld gardenia, a much-loved small tree of open wood-
land, boasts large yellow-white flowers that enchant with their
exquisite scent. The tree is easy to identify thanks to glossy
leaves with a distinct spoon shape.

T
he Bushveld in winter stemmed with a densely tangled,
and spring has many rounded crown. Branches arch
charms, not least of down from a height of three to eight
which is the flowering metres and sometimes even touch
season of the Bushveld the ground. The bark is pale grey
gardenia. For an extended period and smooth. At the end of short
from July to December, winter to branches are glossy leaves, usually
summer, the large trumpet-like in groups of three. They are spoon-
Illustration owned by Daan Schoeman Financial Planning Solutions

Did you flowers open during the night, shaped with a broadly rounded tip,
know? attracting the moths that pollinate a tapering base and a wavy edge.
Gardenias are them with a sweet scent. The huge The tree has several medicinal
named after
flowers, which may be as large as uses. Infusions of the roots and
Alexander
100 mm in diameter, with a long fruit are used to induce vomiting
Garden, a
friend of tube, open up into six to nine petals. and to prepare a cold compress for
the famous They are real show-offs, turning headaches. The ash of burnt roots
Linnaeus, from white to cream to yellow as is rubbed into the chest to treat
the father of they age. pneumonia. For earache an extract
taxonomy. The tree is small and multi- is dripped into the ear.

WIN
To stand a chance to win a certified print of the Bushveld gardenia, simply answer
the following question: What creatures pollinate the plant? SMS Gardenia: answer
and your valid Wild Card number to 33929. It costs R1.50 an SMS. Closing date:
30 April 2016. A winner will be selected by lucky draw.

84 WILD AUTUMN 2016

 From December
to May or even
later, you will see ripe
fruits, shaped like a
large egg. The fruit
is green with white,
slightly raised bumps.
The fruit contains
numerous seeds
embedded in pulp,
favoured by mon-
keys, baboons,
elephants and large
antelope. The leaves
are browsed by game
ranging from giraffe
and kudu to impala.

The wood is very hard

with a fine grain, suitable
for carving ornaments,
sticks and spoons. Since
The Bushveld gardenia the tree is believed to
is a protected tree. protect against lightning
or evil spirits, it is often
planted in villages.

www.wildcard.co.za AUTUMN 2016 WILD 85

 SHOOT LIKE A PRO

Nikon D3S, 105 mm f/2.8,

1/160 sec, f/16, ISO 800

Macro photography is one

of the easiest ways to get
striking wildlife images,
and you can practise in the
garden. The equipment can
be quite modest, too.
By Albie Venter

close
calls
86 WILD AUTUMN 2016
 This flower mantis nymph
was photographed in my
garden in Hoedspruit. Your
own backyard is an excel-
lent place to practise macro
photography and prepare
for wilder circumstances. In
summer, especially, subjects
are abundant and come in
the most amazing shapes
and sizes.

www.wildcard.co.za AUTUMN 2016 WILD 87

 SHOOT LIKE A PRO
Frogs are incredibly photogenic. Foam nest
frogs, also known as grey tree frogs, are some
of the most abundant amphibians in the bush.
They often occur in trees and can change the
colour of their skin to white during the warmer
parts of the day, which makes them interesting
macro subjects.

Nikon D200, 105 mm f/2.8,

1/100 sec, f/7.1, ISO 100

88 WILD AUTUMN 2016

 An extension tube does not have
glass, it only moves the lens fur-
ther away from the focal plane.

MASTERING Focal length This is not the actual length of the lens, but rather a
MACRO calculation of an optical distance where light rays converge to form a sharp
image for the digital sensor. The longer the focal length, the narrower the
angle of view and thus the greater the magnification.

Exposure The closer you are to your subject, the more you lose depth of
field. Thus it is important to shoot at apertures of at least f/8 and above.
Unfortunately this results in the loss of shutter speed, which can cause
blurry images. Two ways to overcome this problem are to either increase
the ISO or to leave the image underexposed but use an external flash to add
light to the scene. There are some great flash systems dedicated to macro
work, but a normal additional flash is more than enough for a start.

Magnification An extension tube is basically a light, tight hollow tube

that fits between the lens and camera mount. This moves the lens further
from the camera and the front element closer to the subject, resulting in a
closer focusing distance. The closer you can get, the more magnification.
An instant macro lens!

NIKON D3, 105.0 mm Depending on where you find yourself, you may encounter exciting macro Photographer
f/2.8, 1/500 sec, Albie Venter has
f/6.3, ISO 400
subjects such as snakes. It’s very important, though, to never approach
a background in
any snake, scorpion or other dangerous creature. They should be viewed nature conserva-
and photographed from a safe distance or under the supervision of expert tion. He delights in
guides familiar with these animals. photographing the
A fast-moving snake such as this twig snake requires a relatively fast little critters.
shutter speed. Shooting at a wider aperture, f/6.3, which is at the lower
range for macro, allowed for a fast shutter speed, but at the cost of depth
of field. The fact that the snake’s eyes are in focus makes this a usable
image. I like the blurry background as it allows the subject to ‘pop’ out
from its surroundings, a nice technique to use with cryptic creatures such
as this snake.

www.wildcard.co.za AUTUMN 2016 WILD 89

 KIDS

ou know
y ?
d d
esse y the s
Di

mpr b s
So i umans le dre ago,
e h att ars
wer olin’s b s of ye ur own
o
pang undred make r from
h to o u ng
that e used ive arm -weari
w otect hard
pr heir scales.
t
Wim Vorster / WildWebAfrica.com

90 WILD AUTUMN 2016

 Dressed
FOR BATTLEArmed with quills, shells, spikes and scales,
these animals are nature’s experts in the art
of self-defence. By Emma Bryce

Pangolin
People share an unexpected trait with the pangolin: hair!
When you look at this smooth, scaly creature, you may
find it hard to believe — but its shield is actually made
from hundreds of hairs. Scientists think individual strands
fuse together to form the tough, interlocking scales. If a
pangolin feels threatened it will roll itself into a tight ball.
This way the scales protect all the soft parts of its body
within. A lion trying to chomp through this hardy casing
would succeed in getting only a toothache.

www.wildcard.co.za AUTUMN 2016 WILD 91

 KIDS

Nile Porcupine
crocodile Even the most fear-
Together with its glit- some teeth and claws
tering white teeth, a find their match in the
crocodile’s knobbly skin porcupine. This creature
sends an unmistakeable dresses in an overcoat of
message to predators: sharp quills, some reach-
stay back. The reptile’s ing 50 cm long. When it
full-body shield offers senses a predator, the
good protection, but the porcupine uses muscles
tough, scaly skin is about in the skin to raise its
more than just defence.
Leopard tortoise spikes. The quills bristle
This tortoise’s dome is both a house and an in- like a quiver of arrows
The bumps on crocodile
built security system. Any hint of danger and
skin are packed with waiting to find their
the tortoise withdraws into its shell. Only the
sensors and nerves that mark. It’s a myth that
most crafty predator can break in! Tortoises also
make it even more sensi- porcupines can shoot out
use their thick, heavy shells during the mating
tive than human finger- season. That’s when males battle for females by their quills. In fact, the
tips. Through their skin ramming and flipping their competitors onto their animals run backwards
crocodiles can detect backs. A tortoise’s shell even reveals clues about into the faces of their
even the slightest ripple its age. The bigger the pyramid-shaped bumps on attackers, leaving many
in the water. its roof, the older the inhabitant. with lifelong battle scars.

The babies of porcupines

are called porcupettes.

Did you know? Giant girdled lizard

Girdled lizards Like mini dragons of the desert, these almost mythical
creatures are covered from top to toe in spiky scales.
might have been the
These are so sharp they can draw blood. To protect
inspiration behind
itself, a girdled lizard stays within dashing distance of
the ferocious its sandy burrow. If a predator pursues it, the lizard will
dragon, Smaug, in sit inside the mouth of its hole and stick out its barbed
JRR Tolkien’s book tail. Come any closer and the girdled lizard will thrash
The Hobbit. its tail around like a spiked club.

Did you know?

Baby porcupines aren’t
born so prickly and
tough. At birth
they have soft quills
that slowly harden to
form sharp spikes.
XX WILD AUTUMN 2016
92
 MEMBERSHIP

CHANGE OF ADDRESS
Update your postal details
online to ensure you get Wild
magazine in the post.

Go Wild!
Join the

club
MARIO MORENO

Join our community today

Wild Card members are passionate about our protected areas. To enjoy a year’s
®

access to the Wild Card parks and reserves, plus receive four complimentary
copies of WildTM magazine, purchase or renew your Wild Card now.

www.wildcard.co.za | wildcard@sanparks.org
0861 GO WILD (0861 46 9453)
All Parks SANPARKS MSINSI
cluster options

INTERNATIONAL VISITORS
cluster cluster cluster All parks cluster:
Individual R1 920 | Couple* R3 005
Individual R470 Individual R460 Individual R420 Family* R3 590
Couple* R770 Couple* R750 Couple* R685
Family* R945 Family* R900 Family* R815 *Couple: Two adults or one adult and one child.
*Family: Up to two adults and their five children under the
EKZN Wildlife CAPENATURE Swaziland age of 18, or one adult and six children (both South Africans
cluster cluster big game and international visitors). Proof of identity, nationality and
parks cluster residency will be required when entering any park, reserve
Individual R465 Individual R420 Individual R340 or resort. Prices subject to change without notice.
Couple* R760 Couple* R680 Couple* R555
Family* R910 Family* R820 Family* R675 PRICES VALID UNTIL 31 OCTOBER 2016

AUTUMN 2016 WILD 93

 WILD CARD
www.sanparks.org National parks,
RESERVES
+27 (0)12 428 9111

1 Addo Elephant National Park

2
3
4
Agulhas National Park
Augrabies Falls National Park
Bontebok National Park
and resorts Botswana
5 Camdeboo National Park 8
6 Golden Gate Highlands National Park Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
7 Karoo National Park
8 Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
9 Knysna National Lake Area
10 Kruger National Park
11 Mapungubwe National Park
12 Marakele National Park
13 Mokala National Park
NORTH WEST
14 Mountain Zebra National Park
15 Namaqua National Park
16 Table Mountain National Park Vryburg
17 Tankwa Karoo National Park
18 Tsitsikamma National Park
19 West Coast National Park

Namibia
Bloe
20 Wilderness National Park
21 IAi-IAis/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park Vaa
IAi-IAis/Richtersveld N
Transfrontier Park 14
N
21 10
3
Upington Orange
Augrabies Falls
National Park Kimberley
Orange

N7 N8
Mokala
13 National
N Park
14

Namaqua Springbok
National N N

South Africa
Park 10 12 Orange
Vanderkloof D

www.capenature.co.za 15
+27 (0)861 CAPENATURE
(227 362 8873) De Aar
Cole
1 Anysberg Nature Reserve NORTHERN CAPE Carnarvon N9
2 Assegaaibosch Nature Reserve N7
N
3 Bird Island Nature Reserve 10
Calvinia N
4 Boosmansbos Wilderness Area Olifants 12 N1 Midde
5 Cederberg Wilderness Area
6 De Hoop Nature Reserve Klawer Tankwa Karoo
3 National Park Karoo
7 De Mond Nature Reserve National
5 17 Park 7 Graaff-Reinet
8 Gamkaberg Nature Reserve Lambert’s Bay
Clanwilliam
5
9 Goukamma Nature Reserve Beaufort West Mo
Camdeboo Z
10 Grootvadersbosch Nature Reserve St Helena 20 National Na
Bay Park P
Citrusdal
11 Groot Winterhoek Wilderness Area
N9

WESTERN CAPE
12 Hottentots Holland Nature Reserve N
Saldanha Bay Langebaan 11 12
13 Jonkershoek Nature Reserve N7
22
14 Keurbooms River Nature Reserve West Coast
19 National N1 Laingsburg
Park 1 1
15 Kogelberg Nature Reserve Breede Addo Ele
16 Oudtshoorn Nationa
16 Limietberg Nature Reserve Worcester
Robben Island Robertson 10 8 18 14
17 Marloth Nature Reserve 13 17 4 18 Tsitsikamma
CAPE TOWN George National Park
18 Outeniqua Nature Reserve 2 23 Knysna N2
Swellendam Plettenberg Bay
Table Mountain 12 St Franci
19 Robberg Nature Reserve 16 Heidelberg Bay
National Park False Bontebok N2 Mossel Wilderness
20 Rocherpan Nature Reserve Bay Hermanus
21
National Breede Bay National 9 Knysna 19
Cape Point Park Park National
21 Salmonsdam Nature Reserve 15 4 6 Lake
24 20 Area
22 Swartberg Nature Reserve FOLLOW US ON 9
Agulhas 7
23 Vrolijkheid Nature Reserve National
24 Walker Bay Nature Reserve Park 2 0 50 100 150 200 250 300 Kilom etres

94 WILD AUTUMN 2016

 New places to stay
PAGE
8 Pafuri Border Camp
in northern Kruger Mapungubwe
Limpopo
Mozambique
National Park Musina
11
N1
Family-friendly 10
PAGE
10 LIMPOPO Kruger
cottages in the N
11
Makhado National
Park

Cederberg
Phalaborwa
Tzaneen
POLOKWANE
Marakele Mokopane
National Park
Limpopo 12

ana
GABORONE Thabazimbi N
Modimolle 11

Bela-Bela
Lydenburg
N1
MPUMALANGA
PRETORIA/ Mbombela
N4 TSHWANE N4
Rustenburg Middelburg
Emelaheni
Mahikeng Centurion Barberton
Midrand N 1
Sandton 12 MAPUTO
Hlane Royal
JOHANNESBURG National Park
N
WEST N
14
GAUTENG
N
17
Bethal
11 MBABANE
Ermelo Mlilwane Mkhaya
Potchefstroom Vereeniging Wildlife Game 3
Sanctuary Reserve
Klerksdorp N2
2
Vryburg
N
12 Vaal Swaziland 17 Kosi Bay
Vaal Dam Piet Retief
Lake Sibaya
N1
N3 19
Volksrust
12 Pongolapoort Maputaland
Dam
Bloemhof Kroonstad
Newcastle Lake
Welkom St Lucia
Bloemhof Dam
Vaal 2 9
Bethlehem Glencoe KWAZULU- At Ezemvelo,
FREE STATE
Harrismith
N5
6
N
11 NATAL 10 present your
Winburg
Golden Gate Highlands
National Park 20 21 Ladysmith
N2 Wild Card + ID
Kimberley
Tugela 25
Empangeni
Richards Bay
+ confirmation
N8 BLOEMFONTEIN 6
Estcourt
24
Tugela
22
letter.
Mokala 4
National Ladybrand
11 8 1-2 1
Park MASERU N3 7
16 13 Howick 5 3 North Coast
Caledon 4
14 15 PIETER-

Lesotho
Umhlanga
3 MARITZBURG DURBAN
Orange 5
N6
Vanderkloof Dam N1 6 Amanzimtoti
23
Orange South Coast
www.kznwildlife.com
Kokstad N2 +27 (0)33 845 1000
De Aar 18
Aliwal North 1 Amatigulu Nature Reserve
Colesberg Gariep Dam Port Shepstone
2 Chelmsford Dam Nature Reserve
N2
N9
3 Cobham Nature Reserve
EASTERN CAPE
N
10 Wild Coast 4 Didima – Cathedral Peak
Middelburg 5 Garden Castle Nature Reserve
MTHATHA 6 Giant’s Castle Nature Reserve
7 Harold Johnson Nature Reserve
Queenstown 8 Highmoor Nature Reserve
Graaff-Reinet Cradock www.msinsi.co.za 9 Hilltop – Hluhluwe Game Reserve
5 N6 +27 (0)31 765 7724
Mountain 10 Mpila – iMfolozi Game Reserve
Camdeboo Zebra 1 Albert Falls Dam
National National 11 Injesuthi Nature Reserve
Park Park 2 Bon Accorde
12 Ithala Game Reserve
14 King William’s Town Bisho 3 Hazelmere Dam
N 13 Kamberg Nature Reserve
10 4 Inanda Dam
N2 EAST LONDON 14 Lotheni Nature Reserve
Grahamstown 5 Nagle Dam
1 15 Midmar Dam Nature Reserve
6 Shongweni Dam
Addo Elephant 16 Monks Cowl Nature Reserve
National Park
Port Alfred 17 Ndumo Game Reserve
kamma Algoa Bay 18 Oribi Gorge Nature Reserve
al Park PORT ELIZABETH
N2 19 Phongolo Nature Reserve
y St Francis
Bay 20 Royal Natal National Park

0861 GO WILD (46 9453) www.biggameparks.org 21 Spioenkop Dam Nature Reserve

+268 2528 3943 / 4 22 Umlalazi Nature Reserve

wildcard@sanparks.org 1
2
Hlane Royal National Park
Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary
23 Vernon Crookes Nature Reserve
24 Wagendrift Dam Nature Reserve
25 Weenen Game Reserve
3
International: +27 861 46 9453 | Fax: 086 502 6704 Mkhaya Game Reserve
300 Kilom etres

www.wildcard.co.za AUTUMN 2016 WILD 95

 BACK PAGE

Win a STAY IN de hoop nature reserve

EXCLUSIVE TO Wild card members

A fisherman-style cottage will be

your base while exploring De Hoop.

de hoop collection

F
rom fields of fynbos bustling with life to deserted beaches fringing the
Indian Ocean, De Hoop is a playground for outdoor enthusiasts. You can
explore the reserve on foot or on mountain bike, keeping your eyes peeled
for eland, bontebok and Cape mountain zebra. De Hoop vlei is home to
thousands of birds and, from June to November, southern right whales
come into the protected waters to calve. De Hoop Village is a cluster of cottages close
to the Opstal with its restaurant and shop, as well as facilities like a swimming pool
and tennis court. The cottages are tastefully furnished and fully equipped for self-
catering. One lucky Wild Card member will win a two-night stay for four, courtesy of
De Hoop Collection. Visit www.dehoopcollection.com

How to enter: Email the answer to the question below along with your name,
contact details and valid All Parks Wild Card number to competition@tipafrica.
co.za (subject line: De Hoop). QUESTION: When do whales come close to the
shore to calve?
Competition rules and terms The competition is open to valid All Parks Wild Card members
only. The prize is a two-night midweek stay for a family of four sharing a self-catering cottage in De
Hoop Village. The prize is valid for six months from 1 May 2016, excluding meals and activities.
Excludes peak season. Competition closes 30 April 2016. The lucky winner will be selected by a
draw and informed by email.

96 WILD AUTUMN 2016

 BUSHVELD BREAKS:

BETTER
WHEN DONE
TOGETHER
4787 Angelcy 2015

Whether you take a loved one to the hotel on a romantic break, with breakfast in bed and sunset
cocktails on the stoep, or book the guest house with mates for an adventure* weekend filled with
guided game walks, mountain biking in the Park and brunch in the bush: Find your freedom a
mere 200m from the Phalaborwa Gate of the Kruger National Park in cool, contemporary luxury.
Together.

015 781 3447 | gowild@bushveldterrace.co.za

www.bushveldterrace.co.za | B&B rates from R660pppns
*Visit our website today for more information about adventures and activities