Camino Pas Cu Pas

I wouldn’t worry too much about whether your Credentials are the original Spanish version or one of
the many alternatives as the main thing that you will refer back to are the Cello’s (Stamps you collect
en-route)
The only slight difficulty you may have with the original Spanish version is filling in your own personal
details – But these are as follows
Fecha – Date
A favor de – Your Name
DNI – Passport Number
Comiena la peregrinacion - Date The pilgrimage begins
The tick the “a Pie” box – On Foot (Or En Bicicleta for Bicycle or a Caballo for mule)
Good Luck and Buen Camino
Santiago de Compostela ( SPANIA) este locul de inmormantare a Apostolului Iacob cel

Batran. Particularitatea acestul pelerinaj este ca se face pe jos si exista o structura bine
organizata de refugii pe drum, unde pelerinii pot innopta. Numarul de pelerini care strabat
acest traseu creste constant in fiecare an, astfel in 2010 acesta a depasit cifra de 200.000 de
pelerini veniti din toata lumea. Pe langa acesti pelerini, anual la Santiago de compostela mai
ajung 2,5 milioane de turisti. Pelerinajul a fost declarat Drum Cultural European, iar din
anul 1993 este acreditat pe lista mostenirilor culturale UNESCO.
Cele 6 pelerinaje pe Camino de Santiago (2006-2011)
01. – 21 august-26 septembrie 2006 (900 de km în 36 de zile)

Camino Francez din Spania – Saint Jean Pied de Port – Pamplona – Burgos – Leon –
Santiago – Finisterre
02. – 27 iulie-10 septembrie 2007 (1 250 de km în 44 de zile)

doua saptamani prin Franta plus Camino Francez din Spania – Moissac – Saint Jean Pied de
Port – Santiago – Finisterre – Muxia
03. – 10 iunie – 17 iulie 2008 (1 000 de km în 35 de zile)

Jaca – Santiago – Finisterre

Somport- Santiago – Finisterre (Camino Aragonez si Camino Francez)

Camino del Norte – pe coasta Atlanticului – Irun – Santander – Bilbao – Santiago – Finisterra
06. – 12 iunie – 11 iulie 2011 (800 de km în 30 de zile)
Camino Portughez – Lisabona – Santa Ren – Golega – Tomar – Coimbra – Porto – Barcelos –
Tui – Padron – Santiago de Compostele – Finisterre
Camino – pas cu pas! – prima parte

19 ianuarie 2015
Camino
– povestea drumului spusa de un pelerin…
Am scris si am povestit despre Camino in ultimul timp si intamplarea face ca, cineva sa-
mi faca cunostinta cu altcineva care chiar a facut acest pelerinaj. Ba chiar de doua ori! Am
luat legatura si le-am luat un interviu pentru voi. Un domn si o doamna, plecati in Spania de
mai mult timp, care au raspuns cu drag si in acelasi timp savuros la întrebările mele. In partea
a doua o sa va spun mai multe despre ei. Povestea drumului spusa din interior este absolut
fascinanta si va invit sa o cititi alaturi de mine. Mi-au trimis si poze si nu rezist sa nu vi le
arat…
* Multumesc Camelia!
Camino!
1. Cum ati aflat de Camino ?
Auzisem ceva vag de el aici, dar pe 25 iulie este Sf. Santiago la ei si dau la stirile TV
despre eveniment…la fel ca de la Mecca, pe urma in 2011 am vazut un film american „The
Way”,in 2012 iulie a fost fata noastra pe el cu colegii de facultate, a facut 160 km in o
saptamana, iar in august am plecat eu singur sa fac dublu – 320 km din Leon la Santiago de
Compostela. Kilometri reali insa nu corespund cu cei de pe sosea. Este un pelerinaj pentru
catolici, de la religie isi are si radacinile,drumul acesta l-a facut apostolul Santiago, iar la
capatul lui a facut o biserica mica, romanii au facut una mai mare de piatra, iar apoi
Catedrala. Acum in timpurile moderne el se poate face cu scop religios ori scop turistic, sa
imbini drumetia cu natura ori impreuna pentru ca pe tot traseul sunt lacase de cult religioase.
In 2013 am fost iar si cu sotia si am repetat acelasi traseu.
2. Cum te inscrii ?
Inainte de incepere iti faci o fisa „CREDENCIAL”, pe care in fiecare zi trebuie sa pui
doua stampile de pe traseul pe unde treci, totul este special amenajat, asta ca dovada, iar la
sosire se primeste o diploma de Caminante scrisa in Latina. Obligatoriu insa trebuie sa
parcurgi cel putin 100 km pana la Santiago ca sa primesti diploma .
3. Este recomandata o perioada anume ca sa-l parcurgi?
De preferinta vara por motivul :)) de clima. Pentru ca este partea de nord al Spaniei, iarna
ninge mult si e zapada mare pe munti, iar primavara si toamna ploua mult si este ceata multa,
ceata pe care insa am intalnit-o si vara. Ca perioada din viata…cred ca toti catolicii si-ar
dori macar o data in viata, dar na, dupa posibilitati….Am intalnit pe drum si tineri si batrani
si familii cu copii chiar si mici ca plangeau pe drum, Poti face Camino pe jos, cu bicicleta,
calare pe cal, magar ori catar, era cate unul ce alerga cu putin bagaj – un rucsacel mic.
4. Camino este foarte lung si are multe trasee. Poti incepe de oriunde?
Da, dar pentru a primi diploma minim ultimii 100 km. Am intalnit unii care la inceput , au
facut din el cat au putut si l-au reluat urmatorul an de unde au ramas si s-au nimerit cu mine
spre final. In fiecare zi la catedrala este slujba si inainte de ea se anunta pelerinii sositi pe
nume, nationalitate si de unde vin. In Spania sunt mai multe rute: Caminul francez cel mai
cunoscut si facut de majoritatea care are si toate serviciile bine puse la punct. Caminul ce
vine din sud din Sevilla, altul ce vine din Portugalia,altul din Valencia, etc, dar toate se unesc
spre final cu cel francez ce vine de la granita cu Franta si are pe teritoriu Spaniei 800 km. El
incepe din Paris dar Franta, Germania, Italia nu sunt bine organizate cu cazarea. Se doarme
in moteluri, hoteluri si sunt mai scumpe decat cele de pe teritoriul Spaniei.
5. Iti faci traseul dinainte ?
Da mi-am ales ruta si mi-am scos de pe internet un ghid, dar sunt si de cumparat 20 E in
engleza, spaniola, etc
6. Exista acele semne care iti arata drumul?
Da, semnul unei scoici pe care trebuie sa-l urmaresti mereu ca sa nu te ratacesti, In oras
poate fi pe jos pe strada pietonala din bronz si pe panouri, pe kilometraje de beton special
facute, mai ales in Galicia ultima provincie. Si mai e o sageata galbena care indica tot ”
caminul”.
7. Cum este drumul?
Este special amenajat, uneori paralel cu soselele, alteori pe camp, prin paduri, semnalizat
peste tot cu SAGEATA GALBENA ,ori SCOICA. pe jos pe munte semne facute pe stanci, prin
paduri pe copaci, iar pe potecile din varful muntilor era semnul crucii facut din pietre
asezate frumos una langa alta. Se intampla uneori sa traversezi sosele dar esti avizat din timp
de panouri mari cu instructiuni. Dar te simti in siguranta, cu exceptia neprevazutului! Am
patit-o cand un taur a sarit peste portile de la un tarc unde era inchis cu vacile si noi treceam
pe acolo ne-am oprit speriat de moarte – ce facem daca vine spre noi?? – ne ascunsesem
dupa niste tufe dar s-a dus la umbra unui pom de pe malul unui rau ce trecea un pic mai in
lateralul drumului,. De fapt el nu mai putea de cald

8. Cati km mergeati pe zi?
Intre 18 -19 km si 22 -24 km – depinde cum era ruta, gradul de dificultate se traverseaza
doua lanturi de munti, pe sus la cota 1600 – 1700 m era si ploaie si ceata.Noi cautam sa ne
cazam dupa masa dar pe traseu am intalnit persoane care dormeau in aer liber in saci de
dormit. Ii vedeam dimineata cand iesem noi mai devreme.
9. Unde dormeati noaptea?
In ALBERGUE – spatii special amenajate de primarii, (de gen tabere scolare la noi) la
preturi accesibile 5-6 E pe noapte, cu toalete, dusuri, bucatarii dotate cu de toate – spalatorie
cu masina si manuala, locuri amenajate pentru uscat rufe, etc. Aveai acces numai cu acel
„Credencial” si era si un loc unde puteai pune stampila pe el. Obligatoriu trebuie sa ai acte
de identitate cu tine. Aceste locuri erau municipale, pentru ca sunt si Albergue particulare
duble la pret dar tot accesibile fata de moteluri 40E. Nu am dormit niciodata afara pentru ca
plecam intre 6:30–7:00 dimineta si pe la 14 – 15 ne cazam pentru ca faceam ruta de 20 -24
km pe ziua respectiva. Dimineata pana in ora 8:00 trebuia sa eliberezi camera. Dupa cazare,
faceam un dus, mancam si vizitam imprejurimile si pe la 22:00 fuguta la culcare devreme.
Catolicii aveau la ora 19:00 slujba la biserica special pentru pelerini si se duceau
majoritatea. Am fost si noi sa vedem cum este la unele si era tare frumos. Se canta in cor, cu
totii cantau mai ales italienii si la urma se prezenta fiecare, de unde vine ,ce evenimente au
avut pe drum sau alte lucruri de genul asta.
Este prima parte a interviului, in care am descoperit împreuna cum te pregatesti, pe unde
mergi, cat poti merge si unde poti dormi. Pentru amintirile cu adevarat speciale va astept in a
doua parte. Va dau cuvântul meu ca merita citit! O sa va dezvalui si cine sunt personajele
povestii pelerinajului Camino. Pana atunci, vreau sa va spun ceva. Probabil nu in acest an dar
anul viitor, 2016 adica, SIGUR o sa merg macar cei 100 de kilometri. Sunt fascinat de drumul
asta! Asa ca daca sunt doritori…astept sa vorbim si sa cerem sfaturi de la cei care mi-au
raspuns la întrebări.
Camino de Santiago – anul 2008
Posted on 11 Ianuarie 2012 | Lasă un comentariu
Am plecat cu avionul pe ruta Cluj – Barcelona dus intors (a fost cea mai rentabila varianta cu
Wizz Air, 150 euro), fiindca am descoperit ca in Barcelona, mai précis in Montserrat, exista
un refugiu pentru pelerini. Am ajuns pe la miezul noptii si am innoptat in aeroport impreuna
cu o romanca din Cluj.
Dimineata am luat metroul pana in Barcelona, am vizitat Sagrada pe o ploaie torentiala si am
decis sa plec la Montserrat. Barcelona – Montserrat se face cu un metrou special (RENFE),
costa cam 6 euro si se ajunge intr-o ora si jumatate la Montserrat, cea mai mare manastire
catalana, situata undeva in munti, la inaltime. Pelerinii pot inopta pe gratis in prima noapte ,
dupa care pentru a doua noapte se plateste 10 euro.
Montserrat a fost o surpriza extraordinara, o catedrala enorma, in fiecare dimineata cei aprox.
80 de calugari canta toata slujba acompaniati de orga…Exista si posibilitatea de a lua de aici
pasaportul de pelerin.
Am luat autobuzul pana in Huesca si de aici am avut legatura directa pana in Jaca (total cam
30 de euro).
Din Jaca am inceput pelerinajul, prima parte fiind pe Camino Aragonez. Aceasta varianta de
Camino porneste tot din Pirinei, doar ca se merge cam 3 zile cu panorama extraordinara a
piscurilor inzapezite, traseul este cumva prin munti si este un pic mai dificil decat celalalt, dar
este cu atat mai frumos. Se trece prin cea mai mare colonie de pasari rapitoare din Europa,
este o rezervatie alpina unde cuibaresc vulturii, si uneori mergi singur pe drum si doar vulturii
(deschiderea aripilor este 2,5m) stau in inaltul cerului si te observa. Sentimentul este
remarcabil si brusc nu te mai simti incoronarea creatiei ci experimentezi cum este sa fii in
vizorul unui rapitor inaripat.
Primele 2 zile am mers in solitudine si n-am intalnit nici un pelerin pe drum si doar foarte
putini oameni in general. Sunt mai putine refugii si mai scumpe, fiindca sunt putini pelerini.
Dar traseul este extraordinar.
Din Jaca se poate face un mic ocol ( aprox. 20 km sau mai mult) la manastirea San Juan de la
Pena. Este una din cele mai vechi manastiri aragoneze, fondata in secolul 9. Catre secolul 11
devine centrul religios al tanarului regat Aragon. Legenda spune ca, pana in secolul 14 aici a
fost adapostit Sfantul Graal. Manastirea este situata la 1200 de metri altitudine, sapata direct
in stanca. A fost abandonata in secolul 17. Ceea ce s-a pastrat pana astazi, cripta, sala cu
coloane, este din secolul 10 – 12. Cararea prin padure trece prin rezervatia naturala Sierra de
San Juan de la Pena, foarte frumoasa.
Camino Aragonez se intalneste cu Camino Frances in Obanos, langa Puente la Reina. Din
Jaca pana La Santiago de Compostela sunt 852,4 km. Conform ghidului scris de Cordula
Raabe. Cu varianta pana la San Juan de la Pena se poate ajunge la 880 km.
Ar mai fi de spus ca aeasta varianta de Camino reperezinta legatura cu Italia, si este drumul pe
care a venit Francisc de Assisi.
In Sanguesa se afla Convento de San Francisco, manastirea despre care se spune ca a fost
fondata in 1212 de Francisc de Assisi, la intoarcerea din pelerinaj.
Pentru mine a fost primul pelerinaj in care am pornit singura la drum. Experienta a fost mult
mai intensa decat primele doua, mai ales fiindca am realizat cata frica acumulasem in mine si
cum ma ascundeam in diferite relatii de dependenta.
Am avut mult mai mult timp pentru a fi atenta, pentru a intelege greseli pe care le faceam (si
le proiectam asupra altora), si pentru a reflecta asupra vietii.
Am mers atat in solitudine – mai ales in prima parte, pe Camino Aragonez – cat si in
compania unor oameni minunati cu care am gasit afinitate sufleteasca.
Am intalnit frati si surori ai suflteului meu.
http://www.geealife.ro/09_0-camino.htm
El Camino
Pelerinajul spre Santiago de Compostela din Spania
Anual ajung pe jos la Santiago de Compostela peste 150.000 de pelerini si aproape 3 milioane
de turisti. Camino este un traseu marcat in aproape toata Europa, si strabatut perpedes de oameni
de pe toate continentele. Frumusetea, magia, trairile si intimplarile de pe Camino nu pot fi zugravite
intotdeauna in cuvinte, pentru ca starea poate deveni intre timp alta. Nici chiar cele 4-5 000 de poze
facute nu pot dezvalui adevaratul Camino, pentru ca e mai bine sa mergeti acolo. Renumele acestui
traseu si probele fizice sau psihice au facut din Camino o atractie in toata lumea. Unii merg mai putin
altii mai mult, fiecare cu ritmul si zilele lui libere, dar Camino se poate relua sau reface si anul urmator
pana la Santiago. Numarul de pelerini care il strabat este in continua crestere, iar din 1993 este
acreditat pe lista mostenirilor culturale UNESCO.
Sageta Galbena si Scoica reprezinta marcajele simbolice care ne insotesc pretutindeni si ne indruma
pe aceasta cale. Dupa primul pelerinaj din 2006 am creat un Grup de Discutii Bon_Camino, unde din
primele zile ne-am intilnit 7 persoane de nationalitate romana care am facut pelerinajul, 4 din
Timisoara, 2 din Franta si una din Danemarca (apoi grupul a crescut la 150 de persoane pana 2008).
Astfel ca dupa 3 ani consecutivi de Camino, numarul km parcursi perpedes a ajuns la 3 150 in 118
zile. La fel a crescut si numarul celor interesati de Camino care ne-au contactat in urma conferintelor,
videoproiectilor, expozitiilor, la lansarea cartii despre Camino, prin pagina web, prin participarea la
diverse evenimente sau emisiuni radio, etc.
Redam un citat a lui Paulo Coelho din cartea Maktub: “Era ceva ce a lipsit din discursul tau despre
Calea spre Santiago,” spuse o femeie, calatorului in timp ce ieseau impreuna de la conferinta. ”Am
observat ca majoritatea pelerinilor,” spuse, “ fie pe Calea catre Santiago, fie pe calea vietii lor,
incearca intotdeauna sa tina pasul cu ceilalti. La inceputul pelerinajului meu, am incercat sa merg in
acelasi ritm cu grupul meu. Eram obosita, cerusem mai mult decat putea sa-mi dea trupul meu, eram
incordata, si am sfarsit prin a suferi o intindere de tendon la piciorul stang. Timp de doua zile mi-a fost
imposibil sa mai merg, si am invatat ca as fi putut ajunge la Santiago doar daca as fi mers in ritmul
meu. Mi-a luat mai mult decat celorlalti si multe portiuni am mers singura. Dar numai respectand ritmul
meu am reusit sa parcurg tot drumul. De atunci, am aplicat lectia la orice lucru din viata mea.”
Mai multe informatii despre cei peste 3 000 de km strabatuti de noi pe jos in cei trei ani de pelerinaj
consecutivi spre Santiago de Compostela (2006, 2007 si 2008 prin Franta si Spania) in cartea scrisa
de Ramona „Pelerini la Santiago de Compostela - Jurnalul celor 900 de km perpedes din Pirinei
pana la Atlantic pe Camino, Ed Geea Life 2007” (disponibila in Librarie), pe CD-ul Camino
Santiago de Compostela si pe Grupul de Dialog Bon Camino despre acest traseu, la adresa
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bon_camino
Galerie Foto Camino 2006 http://picasaweb.google.ro/Camino.Santiago.de.Compostela.2006

Galerie Foto Camino 2007 Franta http://picasaweb.google.ro/Santiago.de.Compostela.2007.Franta
Galerie Foto Camino 2007 Spania http://picasaweb.google.ro/Santiago.de.Compostela.2007.Spania
Descrierea Pelerinajului spre Santiago de Compostela

(Spania)
Santiago de Compostela, mai pe romaneste Sfantul Iacob cel Mare sau Iacob de la Campul cu
Steaua, inmormantat la Compostella (Saint Jacques de Compostelle - Saint James – Jakob - Iacob),
pe langa multe alte calitati si minuni care i s-au atribuit, este patronul alchimistilor si al tuturor
practicantilor artelor cosmologice (conform descrierilor lui Titus Burckhardt din cartea Alchimia –
semnificatia ei si imaginea despre lume).

Pelerinajul spre mormantul Sf. Iacob de la Compostela a inceput dupa descoperirea lui din anul
830, dar deja din secolul V existau dovezi ca Apostolul Iacob a predicat in Peninsula Iberica. Santiago
de Compostela, care este telul pelerinajului, reprezinta pe langa Roma si Ierusalim, cel de-al treilea
mare loc de pelerinaj al lumii crestine. Traseu nascut din si pentru cultul Apostolului Iacob. Orasul este
astazi o opera de arta arhitectonica si culturala, dar si un oras universitar viu si foarte modern (plus cei
2,5 milioane de turisti care ajung aici anual, in afara de pelerini care vin pe jos). Impunatoarea
Catedrala din Santiago de Compostela dateaza cam din sec. XI. Dar chiar si celtii mergeau pe Calea
Soarelui (a pelerinajului pe El Camino - in traducere Drumul sau Calea) si ajungeau la Finisterre, iar in
varful Monte del Facho (247 m), deasupra farului celtii celebrau soarele si faceau ritualuri de fertilitate.
Templul fenician al soarelui Arasolis ar fi fost tot aici, la Finisterre.
Traseul de pelerinaj porneste si este marcat din foarte multe orase din Europa, e ca o panza de
paianjen care acopera intregul continent (mai ales partea occidentala), si in final toate drumurile duc la
Compostela. Prin Franta trec 4 mari trasee principale care se unesc toate in Saint Jean Pied de Port,
punctul de plecare peste Pirinei in Spania pe Camino. Daca in Franta avem 4 trasee, in Spania sunt
foarte multe, cam toate colturile Spaniei au cate un traseu de pelerinaj (marcat, organizat, cu refugii si
folosit de pelerini) spre Santiago de Compostela. Dar cel mai important si folosit este cel care vine din
Franta, denumit Camino Francez (pe care am mers si noi din St Jean Pied de Port), pe care merg
majoritatea pelerinilor (peste 80 %) avand cele mai multe refugii si conditii pentru pelerini.
Cele 4 trasee (chiar 5) importante de pelerinaj din Franta (care

preiau celelalte trasee din Europa) sunt:
01 -- Camino de Le Puy, (pe care am mers si noi 325 de km din Moissac pana la St Jean Pied
de Port in 2007) care are 1524 de km pana la Santiago de Compostela (784 din St Jean Pied de Port
prin Spania). Practic pe Camino de Le Puy vine traseul pelerinajului marcat de la Budapesta (2977 de
km pana la Compostela), Viena (2740 km), Salzburg (2454 km), Zurich (2006), Berna (1889),
Lausanne (1787), Geneva (1722), Lyon si Le Puy. Sunt pelerini care chiar vin de foarte departe pe jos
(cate 4-5 luni de mers), plecand de obicei, simbolic din orasul natal. Chiar am stat in camera si am
vorbit cu o persoana care a ajuns din Geneva la Compostela pe jos. Acest traseu din Franta este cel
mai important din punct de vedere al numarului de pelerini si al refugiilor (fiind destul de bine marcat)
dar nu se poate compara cu Spania ca densitate a pelerinilor.
02 -- Camino de Tours care pleaca prin Paris, Orleans, Tours, Poitiers, Boreaux, Ostabat, St
Jean Pied de Port si are din Tours 1407 km pana la Compostela. Dar in acest Camino de Tours intra
si trasee foarte indepartate care vin de la Tallin (zona baltica), Riga (4272 de km pana la Compostela),
Cracovia (2806), Praga (2697), Amsterdarm (2137), Bruxelles (1906), Hamburg, Dresda (3166), Berlin
(2765), Groningen (2963), plus traseele care vin din Anglia. Toate se unesc in Franta si merg spre
Camino Francez din Spania.
03 -- Camino de Vezelay care prin Franta are traseul Vezelay, Limoges, Perigeux, Ostabat, St
Jean Pied de Port, iar din Vezelay pana la Compostela sunt 1684 de km. Nu primeste alt traseu
anterior de Vezelay, ci doar cateva locale din Franta.
04 – Camino de Arles, aceste vine din Arles (1407 km pana la Compostela), prin Montpellier,
Toulouse, Auch, Oloron Saint-Marie si Samport (in Spania, ocolind urcusul Pirineilor din St Jean Pied
de Port pe o ruta alaturata, dar iase in Camino Francez in 4-5 zile). In acesta intra traseele din Italia,
Roma (2404 de km pana la Compostela), Parma (2176), Genova (1869), Nisa (1757), etc… si chiar
traseul din Jerusalen, Zagreb (2759) prin Milano (2016)
05 -- Mai este un traseu in Franta, prin Pirinei, denumit Camino del Piemont Pyreneen,
care pleaca din Narbonne (1286 de km pana la Compostela), prin Carcassonne, saint Girrons,
Lourdes, Oloron Saint-Marie si St Jean Pied de Port sau varianta prin Samport.
Daca ne referim la traseele din Spania, destul de multe spre Compostela,
cel mai important este Camino Francez (multe alte trasee care vin din toata Spania si
Portugalia ajung in acesta pe parcurs).
001 – Camino Frances pleaca din St Jean Pied de Port (Pirinei Francezi 784 de km pana la
Compostela), prin Pamplona, Logrono, Burgos, Sahagun, Leon, Astorga, Ponferrada, O`Cebreiro,
Sarria, Melinde si finalul la Santiago de Compostela. Trecand prin 4 comunitati autonome si cateva
provincii in cadrul acestora: Navarra, La Rioja, Castilla y Leon (Burgos, Palencia, Leon) si Galicia
(Lugo, La Coruna). In iunie 2008 pe acest traseu erau inregistrate 227 de refugii, Albergues doar
pentru cazarea pelerinilor (in Spania turistii nu sunt primiti la Albergues, cazarea e doar pe baza
pasaportului de Pelerin stampilat zilnic). Din aceste 227 de refugii, 104 sunt in proprietate publica,
apartinand de administratiile locale, comunitatile religioase sau de diverse asociatii, iar 123 sunt
private. Deci se poate spune ca exista ca cifra medie daca impartim 800 de km la 227 de albergues
cate un refugiu la fiecare 3,5 km. Este traseul principal pe care l-am facut noi in 2006, 2007 si 2008,
venind de pe alte diverse trasee.
002 – Camino a Finisterre, este traseul pe care l-am continuat dupa Compostela spre Atlantic
pana la Cabo Finisterre cu o lungime de 89 de km. Din acesta exista si varianta Muxia pana unde sunt
82 de km, dar exista si drum pe coasta Atlanticului intre Finisterre si Muxia (drum marcat destul de
slab, mai mult am mers la indicatiile localnicilor si prin intuitie). Practic este o extensie a traseului
Camino Francez, folosit de foarte multi pelerini, normal ca l-am facut si noi in fiecare an. Se primeste
Diploma de la Finisterre si la Muxia.
003 – Camino del Norte, un drum spectaculos pe tarmul Atlanticului care pleaca din Irun (849 de
km pana la Compostela) prin Bilbao, Santander, Lianes si iese prin Oviedo, Lugo in Camino Francez
la Melinde sau prin Gijon, Luarca, Ribadeo, Vilalba, tot in Camino Francez la Arzua inainte de
Santiago de Compostela.
004 – Camino de la Plata, care pleaca din Sevilia (1000 de km pana la Compostela), prin
Merida, Caceras, Salamanca, Zamora si iese in Astorga pe Camino Francez. Mai are o varianta
directa spre Compostela prin Ourense.
005 - Camino Catalan Meridional, care pleaca de langa Barcelona de la Manastirea de

Montserrat (1090 de km pana la Santiago) si trece prin Igualana, Cervera, Fraga, Zaragoza, Tudela,
Calahhora si ajunge in Camino Francez la Logrono.
006 - Camino Catalan Septentrional, (denumit si Camino Catalan sau Camino de

Montserrat), pleaca de langa Barcelona de la Manastirea de Montserrat (1120 de km pana la
Santiago) si trece prin Igualana, Cervera, Tarrega, Balaguer, Monzon, Huesca, San Juan de la Pena,
Santa Cilia de Jaca unde se intalneste cu Camino Aragones care vine din Pirinei de la Samport si
dupa 118 km iese in Camino Francez prin Sanguesa la Puente la Reina.
007 - Camino de Levante, care pleaca din Valencia (1121 de km pana la Compostela) prin
Almansa, Albacete, Toledo, Avila, Zamora si iese la Astorga in Camino Francez.
008 - Camino Portugues, care pleaca din Porto si are 237 de km pana la Santiago (dar care are
legatura si cu Lisabona), prin Barcelos, Tui, Pontevedra si Padron spre Compostela.
009 - Camino Aragones este prin Pirinei, traseul care evita urcusul de o zi (St Jean Pied de Port
- Roncesvalles) si ocoleste prin Samport, Jaca, Sanguesa si Puente la Reina din Camino Francez.
Este traseul pe care a mers Ramona in 2008 cateva zile, pe Camino Aragonez in portiunea Jaca -
Puente la Reina intrand apoi pe clasicul Camino Francez - dupa ce a aterizat la Barcelona si a mers
cu trenul pana la Zaragoza si cu autobuzul prin Huelva spre Jaca, de unde a inceput pelerinajul.
Mai sunt si alte trasee prin Spania spre Santiago de Compostela :

Camino Primitivo (intre Oviedo, Lugo, Melinde considerat traditional in trecut, acum o portiune din
Camino del Norte), Camino de Madrid (prin Segovia, Valadolid si ajunge in Sahagun), Camino
Vasco del Interior (care leaga punctul de plecare pe Camino del Norte - Irun de Camino Francez in
Santo Domingo de la Calzada), Camino Ingles (leaga portul la Coruna de Santiago), Camino de la
Lana (care pleaca din zona Mediteranei, Alacat, Almansa, Cuenca si ajunge in Burgos). Le-am insirat
doar ca sa existe o imagine de ansamblu si cultul creat in Spania mai ales, dar si in tarile invecinate
pentru acest pelerinaj.
Ca statistica la nivel origine a pelerinilor, pe primul loc e Spania, urmata de Franta, Germania,
Italia, Belgia, Olanda, Elvetia, Austia, Portugalia. In statistica oficiala apar 75 de Romani in 2007, 45
in 2006 si 40 in 2005, dar e posibil ca multi dintre acestia sa nu locuiasca in Romania. Pe internet
apar date statistice legate de nationalitate, loc de plecare, sex, varsta pelerinaj pe jos – cu bicicleta –
calare, profesie, motivatie, traseu, luna in care se ajunge, etc. Cateva statistici privind numarul
pelerinilor ajunsi la Santiago de Compostela in ultimii ani: 1986 (2.491), 1987 (2.905), 1988
(3.501), 1989 (5.760), 1990 (4.918), 1991 (7.274), 1992 (9.764), 1993 (99.436), 1994 (15.869), 1995
(19.821), 1996 (23.218), 1997 (25.179), 1998 (30.126), 1999 (154.613), 2000 (55.004), 2001 (61.418),
2002 (68.852), 2003 (74.614), 2004 (179.944), 2005 (93.924), 2006 (100.377), 2007 (114.026) in
paranteza numarul de pelerini ajunsi la Santiago de Compostela.
Sistemul refugiilor pentru pelerini de pe Camino nu permite sa dormi doua nopti la rand in acelasi
refugiu, si se pot caza doar pelerinii care dovedesc prin stampilele zilnice din Pasaport ca au mers pe
jos. Acestea au un anumit program (este trecut in ghid) si odata cu instructiunile de folosire a refugiului
(organizarea bucatariei, baie, spalator, locul pentru bocanci, pentru uscat haine, etc) esti anuntat ca
dimineata trebuie sa-l parasesti pana la ora 8 – 9.00, de la caz la caz. Majoritatea nu sunt deschise
toata ziua, avand un program pe care il putem studia in ghid. Uneori e aiurea sa ajungi la 12.00 la un
refugiu, iar el sa se deschida de abia la 16.00. E bine ca in fiecare zi odata cu cazarea sa se puna de
catre hostaler (administratorul refugiului) stampila si data. Unii isi puneau stampile prin tot felul de
refugii si biserici, noi ne-am pus doar unde am dormit (in primul an), e bine in ambele feluri cum am
procedat si noi in anul urmator. Am vazut un caz in care hostalerul nu a primit niste fete pentru ca nu
aveau stampila zilei anterioare dintr-un refugiu apropiat, considerand ca au trisat si nu puteau face pe
jos intr-o zi distanta de la ultima stampila.
Marcajul traseului este simbolizat de Sageata Galbena si Scoica pentru Spania (sunt semne
foarte clare si dese, poti merge si noaptea), iar in Franta erau doua benzi alaturate una Alba si una
Rosie (bun in general,cu toate ca uneori nu prea stiam incotro sa o luam, dar mai rar ca in Spania).
Traseele sunt marcate in ambele sensuri, am intilnit si cativa pelrini care faceau traseul in sens invers
venind de la Compostela,
Din Romania ne inchipuiam ca traseele vor fi destul de grele, dar acolo, fiind in vibratia pelerinilor si
vazandu-i pe ceilalti (erau destul de multe persoane in varsta) si avand mereu ceva nou de vazut, totul
a mers mult mai usor decat ne-am asteptat. Plecam in tura la rasarit, de multe ori chiar si pe intuneric
cu lanternele (mai ales in portiunea de Meseta unde dupa prinz erau peste 40 de grade) si in jurul
orelor 12 -13 ne cazam la refugii. In primele 20 de zile din 2006 nu am prins nici o ploaie, dar am
recuperat in ultima perioada cand am mers zile la rand doar prin ploaie si vant (dar, in general cam in
toate zilele aveam si perioade de Soare). Cand ajungeam intr-o locatie, ne ingrijeam de cazare si dus,
de papa (cumparam mancarea de la Supermercado – fiind mai ieftina si diversificata, putand alege
ceea ce dorim – si mancam in sala de mese a refugiului sau pe o banca in curte sau parc), uneori mai
trageam si un pui de somn inainte de plimbarea prin localitate.
Noi am ales din start varianta sa mergem in sandale de munte tot drumul si nu am facut besici
(destul de multi au suferit din cauza besicilor), altii pelerini au mers doar in bocanci, altii au combinat
sandale cu bocanci, sau adidasi (sistemul Ramonei) cu bocanci, etc. Fiecare cum simte, poate sa
mearga si se cunoaste, dar e bine sa verificam incaltamintea inainte intr-o tura de munte din Romania
- chiar daca nici acest aspect nu poate fi concludent pentru toata lumea. Unii au patit-o chiar si cu
bocancii verificati, altii nu. Exemplul importantei picioarelor, este relevant cand ne gandim la cit de
dureroasa sau enervanta poate fi o mica besica (dar mai multe si putin mai mari ...). Cam de doua ori
pe zi ne ungeam pe picioare cu crema (dupa dus si seara inainte de culcare), astfel ca pielea sa fie
moale si catifelata. Cineva care a fost inaintea noastra ne-a dat sfatul sa incepem sa ne catifelam
pielea picioarelor cu crema cu o luna inainte de a pleca, am zimbit si nu am inteles de ce ne spune
asta, dar am aflat la fata locului. Crema de picioare era un ritual comun seara in dormitor.
Majoritatea celor care au renuntat la pelerinaj, 3 – 4 din cei pe care i-am cunoscut noi, erau cei
care sufereau vizibil pe drum si seara la refugiu din cauza ca au avut probleme la picioare: au facut
entorsa sau i-a ros incaltamintea sau poate au avut o pereche de ciorapi nepotriviti (exista in
magazinele specializate ciorapi speciali pentru ture lungi). Problemele pe care le-am observat erau
besici de diverse marimi, entorse sau probleme la tendoane, pentru persoanele care poate au fortat
sau poate au aceste zone mai slabe. (deoarece sandalele sau adidasii nu te ajuta deloc pe drumurile
de munte sau cu multe pietre si nu iti tin gleznele fixe cand nu esti foarte atent la mers).
Nu ne referim la problemele initiale cu musculatura neobisnuita cu efortul, deoarece prin aceasta

etapa de schiopatat, mers teapan si febra musculara au trecut majoritatea - era un mod de a ne
recunoaste pe strada
dupa "mersul greoi de pelerin" sau diferenta dintre culoarea pielii de deasupra ciorapului sau
bocancului, cind umblam doar in sandale sau silapi la plimbarile zilnice prin diverse orase.
Refugiile sunt dotate cu un singur dormitor mai mare sau mai multe incaperi cu paturi, curti,
spalatoare cu chiuveta pentru spalatul manual al hainelor, dar si cu masini de spalat contra cost.
Majoriteatea pelerinilor isi spalau zilnic hainele, avand la ei 1-2-3 schimburi maxim. Sunt necesare ace
de siguranta sau cleme pentru a le agata la uscat pe sarma sau de rucac a doua zi pe cele care nu se
uscau peste noapte. In refugii exista sala de mese, diverse automate de sucuri, cafea, bucatarie cu
ustensile si posibilitai de a prepara hrana, frigider, curte, dusuri, toalete, internet, etc. Ajungeai,
despachetai, dus, spalat haine, papa – plimbare – discutii cu altii, sau – somn, ordinea era diversa.
Cam pe la ora 22.00 se dadea stingerea (unele chiar incuiau usa si nu era prea interesant sa ramai
afara, dar multe refugii ramaneau descuiate), erai in pat si dimineata la 5 -5.30, uneori mult mai
repede, eram in picioare (incepea harmalaia in dormitor si pregatirile de plecare), urma echiparea si
pregatirea rucsacului, un ness sau o cafea cu lapte de la automat si plecam drum cu sau fara lanterna,
functia de cat de matinali eram. Preferai uneori sa te opresti mai tarziu la cafeaua cu lapte sau la un
popas insorit prilej cu care se mai rontaia cate ceva.
Noi ne-am obisnuit sa mincam doar o data pe zi pe la ora 16- 17 (plus rontaitul de dimineata la un
popas), comparativ cu altii care aveau nevoie de 3 mese pe zi si se opreau la 3 baruri sau restaurante.
Noi avand un sistem de alimentatie natural- vegetarian, nu prea gaseam meniuri de pelerin fara carne
sau alte ciudatenii. Am fost invitati intr-o zi la masa de o familie de elvetiei cu care ne-am imprietenit,
in loc de mincare de legume am primit o omleta in care erau citeva urme de fasole verde. (majoritatea
spaniolilor nu prea vorbesc bine limbi straine). In apropierea refugiilor exista si pe traseul de pelerinaj
exista numeroase restaurante (functie de marimea localitatii) care au afisata oferta meniurilor speciale
doar pentru pelerini, acestea erau intre 7- 9 euro.
Noi comparativ cu altii, nu aveam nici un termen limita de a ajunge legat de zilele de concediu sau alte
probleme, asa ca eram mai linistiti, poate problema financiara era la noi singura care ne limita sejurul
in Spania. Unii mergeau mai mult, faceau o pauza la pranz si continuau si dupamasa, deoarece pentru
ei zilele libere erau limitate si ii motivau sa faca traseul pe care l-au propus. Nu toti pelerinii au facut
intregul traseu, se pot face doar diverse portiuni si continua la anul – am intilnit pelerini care continuau
Camino de unde l–au lasat anul trecut.
La nivel financiar, cazarile erau in jur de 3 – 7 euro. Majoritatea le-am gasit la 3 euro. Multe refugiile
foloseau sistemul de donatie (era o cutie in hol in care fiecare punea cit dorea) si nu era afisat pretul
exact ca la celelalte. Noi pe aceste donativo le-am evaluat la 3 euro de persoana (altii puneau mai
mult, altii deloc –nu exista obligatie ci conta gestul) si puneam suma respectiva in cutiuta cu donatii.
Astfel ca media cazarilor pe intreg pelerinajul din 2006 a fost de 4 euro pe zi de persoana. Dar puteai
sa stai si la hotel, daca aveai punga plina, sau sa alegi refugiile mai scumpe private. Intr-o localitate
puteai sa ai mai multe refugii cu diverse preturi (acestea sunt trecute in ghid, cu explicatii, adresa si
conditiile oferite), astfel ca aveai de unde alege, dar daca ajungeai mai tarziu, deobicei ramaneau
libere locuri in cele mai scumpe.
Uneori te gandeai si la conditiile mai bune oferite, deoarece in dormitoarele mari (am dormit si 170 –
100 – 50- in acelasi dormitor) erau multe zgomote nocturne si apareau cozi la dusuri sau WC. Pe
Camino sistemul de cotare al nivelului conditiilor oferite era exprimat in Scoici. Astfel ca erau refugii de
o scoica, 2 scoici, 3 Scoici, cu preturile pe masura, iar in ghid exista descrierea ofertei respective,
adresa, telefon si preturile.
Alegerea refugiului de popas pentru a doua zi o discutam de multe ori seara intre noi si cu alti
pelerini – fiecare avea modelul lui de ghid, si era o adunare de pelerini care studiau si discutau traseul.
Uneori erau mici diferente intre datele tiparite in diverse limbi si s-au facut multe glume despre Km din
Spania si variabilitatea lor. Astfel ca stabileam sa mergem pina la …. functie de diverse aspecte care
ne interesau nr. de km, felul traseului, ce avem de vizitat pe drum, aprovizionare, cazare, care ar fi
ziua urmatoare, ce refugii existau, etc. Erau multi care mergeau fara nici un program stabilit inainte si
se opreau cand nu mai puteau sau unde gaseau locuri libere de cazare. Uneori exista si varianta sa
gasesti toate locurile ocupate (daca ajungeai prea tarziu sau era un refugiu cu locuri putine) si sa fii
nevoit sa cauti altceva in localitatea respectiva sau sa mergi in urmatoarea. Sunt portiuni in care
refugiile sunt foarte dese, la fiecare 5 - 7 km si portiuni in care nu exista (dar e posibil sa se
construiasca intre timp).
Ritmul de mers este particular, fiecare isi da seama de el, exista zile mai bune sau mai putin bune.
Am ajuns si la un ritm maxim de 6 km pe ora, dar un ritm bun e si 4 km pe ora. Unii care erau mai lenti
plecau foarte repede din refugiu (chiar si pe la 3-4 dimineata) sau ajungeau mai tirziu la urmatorul
refugiu, oricum e bine. Nu e vorba de competitie, fiecare dupa cum putea sau dupa cate popasuri
facea, lumea fiind linistita ca exista multe locuri de cazare pe Camino. Au fost pelerini care mergeau in
ritmul nostru citeva zile, apoi dispareau din anturajul nostru pentru ca erau mai lenti, sau cazuri cind
ne ajungeau altii mai rapizi din urma. Poate ca uneori nu e vorba de rapiditate ci de numarul de km
facuti pe zi si timpul alocat mersului, astfel ca rezulta un nr de km facuti pe parcursul a 6 sau 10 ore.
Noi nu am fortat si ne-am rezervat dupamiezile pentru a vizita diverse obiective sau de a ne plimba
pur si simplu prin oras sau de a ne relaxa la iarba verde.
La nivel de rucsac, majoritatea recomanda in jur de 8 -10 kg, unii calculau bagajul la 10% din
greutatea corpului, ceea ce e cam putin pentru cei care sunt mai slabi. Erau si persoane cu un bagaj
nesemnificativ (un sac foarte mic, hainele de pe el, o pelerina de ploaie, bocanci, silapi de baie si
gata) sau altii la care vedeai ca rucsacul are ceva in el si chiar simteai ca e mai greu (la unele
popasuri mai ajutai pe unu, alta sa ia rucsacul in spate sau puneai mina pe ele la coada de la refugii si
vedeai cit cintaresc). Dar erau si bagaje mai mari, in combinatiile sot – sotie, parinti – copil, prieten -
prietena, in care partea mai Yang se impovara mai mult, sacrificandu-se. Calitatea rucsacului si modul
cum se muleaza pe spate, este importanta si trebuie verificata. De exemplu, Ramona a folosit trei
rucsaci diferiti 3 ani la rand (in fiecare an isi mai cumpara unul care credea ca este mai bun in urma
experientei anterioare).
La nivel practic am vazut ca cei care nu pot sa mearga din cauze fizice (suferinta, oboseala,
probleme) sau au mintea plina de griji si organizari vor merge la fel de chinuit si incet cu rucsacul in
spate sau cu miinile in buzunare - e vorba de propria lor mentalitate. Conteaza foarte mult sugestia pe
care o lansezi zi de zi si la ce iti sta mintea atenta - trebuie doar sa te bucuriin fiecare moment si sa
mentalizezi ca ai un bagaj usor, ca vremea e minunata, la fel va fi si mersul. In general ne convenea
sa mergem mai repede pentru ca uneori rucsacul era mai greu si pentru a putea face pauze mai lungi
pentru vizitare sau poze mai multe in diverse localitati unde stateam mai mult in pauza.
La nivel logic, nimeni nu a mers in orasul lui 8 ore pe jos, poate nici la munte atata, dar pe Camino
este posibil pentru ca e altceva care nu se poate explica foarte rational, cum trebuie sa faci, ci afli
acolo. Greutatea bagajul este in functie de ce lucruri ai nevoie. Ramona avea cam 13 - 15 kg iar
Marcel trecea peste 20 destul de des - mai tot timpul aveam apa, sucuri, fructe (erau portiuni in care
nu aveai pe drum, dar oricum iti cumparai pentru micul dejun citeva fructe), iaurturi si alte cumparaturi
- functie de traseu sau existenta unor magazine sau nu in diverse portiuni. Uneori faceam
cumparaturile de pe drum, problema cu pauza magazinelor dintre orele 14- 17.30 si aveam de mers
ultimii km pana la cazare cu rucsacul putin mai greu, dar niciodata nu a fost vreo problema. Corpul se
formeaza dupa primele zile si nu mai simti plus minus 1-2 kg, mai ales ca in prima zi sunt Pirineii, de la
163 m urci la 1430 si din nou cobori la 962 de m in 28 de km. Erau zile cand pe harta nu aveai nici o
sursa de apa potabila si trebuia sa cari mai mult, plus alte situatii care apareau si creau o oscilatie in
greutatea rucsacului. La nivel de saci de dormit noi i-am ales cei mai subtiri, pe care i-am gasit in
Romania, dar erau mult mai grei (cam 1.7 kg) si voluminosi decat la ceilalti pelerini si ocupau mai mult
volum in rucsac.
Diferenta dintre mers pe sosea, carare de piatra, pamint batatorit, pietris mai mare sau mai fin, sau
iarba este colosala, dupa citeva ore simti socul dur de a calca doar pe piatra sau sosea vizavi de un
soc mai moale pe pietris sau pamint si placerea ierbii. Apare o sensibilitate deosebita in gestul de a
calca si cu timpul deja stiam si citi km faceam fara sa mai calculam. Cu cit talpa bocancului sau
sandalei este mai groasa si solida, ea ofera o protectie mai buna la talpa piciorului, dar nici prea dura,
pentru ca va aluneca pe bolovani sau cararile de munte. La nivel de sandale, sunt bune cele de munte
de escalada, cu talpa apropiata de cea a bocancilor, piele solida, cu intarituri de plastic in zona
gleznelor lateral ca sa nu fuga piciorul, o protectie in fata ca sa nu intre pietricelele si mai multe
reglaje.
Chiar daca ziua erau 40 de grade, dimineata la plecare era destul de racoare (rar cobori sub
altitudinea de 400 de metri, drumul oscileaza intre 700 si 1 400 de m), si uneori plecam in pantalonii
lungi, o scurta sau un tricou mai gros, pe care le dadeam jos pe parcurs. Pelerina de ploaie si vant
este foarte indicata - cea care acopera si rucsacul si nu e foarte strinsa pe corp, deschisa la maneci
pentru ca, corpul sa respire. Noi aveam niste scurte de ploaie, dar ne-am cumparat pe traseu pelerine
si ne-au prin foarte bine in zona furtunii de la Atlantic din 2006. Functie de vremea intilnita (in 2007 nu
prea am avut nevoie de pelerina) iti poti face un alt calcul la nivel de ce ai sau nu nevoie. Uneori
pentru linistea personala e bine sa ai un lucru, chiar daca nu-l folosesti, e mai bine decit sa te gindesti
la el ca iti lipseste. Sunt destule lucruri strict necesare pe care le poti cumpara de pe traseu la preturi
foarte bune.
Indiferent de pregatiri si mentalizari, in 2006 am trecut si noi prin zile in care nu am fost atenti la forta
soarelui (din cind in cind ne dadeam cu crema de la urechi pina la glezne), am avut mici indigestii,
besicile din Pirinei ale Ramonei sau stari de raceala si purificare ale corpului, cand consumam
pachete intregi de batiste, ceaiuri calde si bomboane mentolate. In prima saptamina se manifesta
febra musculara a intregului corp, iar uneori mergeai o zi intreaga prin vant puternic, astfel ca
indiferent de temperatura, erai mult mai obosit si cu capul greoi spre seara. Uneori apareau dureri la
diverse tendoane de pe la glezna sau laba piciorului, nici nu stiai exact unde te doare, dar le
impachetam cu frunze de varza cruda peste noapte si astfel dispareau. Plus zilele cu caldura
insuportabila din Meseta pe care le-am prins in 2006. Dar putem spune ca in 2007 din punct de
vedere fizic starea a fost mult mai buna si nu au mai aparut deloc probleme, poate si pentru ca eram
mai detasati, in cunostinta de cauza.
Perioada cu invazia adevarata a pelerinilor este pe ultima suta de km, cand vin foarte multi doar
pentru a ajunge la Compostela, plus ca incep sa se uneasca toate celelalte trasee in aceasta portiune
si apar pelerini pe care nu i-ai cvazut niciodata. La final se primeste o diploma de la Oficiul Pelerinilor
din Compostela, numarul minim de km pentru a primi aceasta hartie cu numele tau pe ea este de 100.
Aglomeratia este in functie de valul de pelerini pe care il prinzi, prinzi inghesuiala sau lejeritate – au
existat ambele situatii. Uneori din Roncesvalles pot pleca 200 sau 400 de pelerini in aceeasi zi (la fel
dintr-o locatie mai spre final), astfel ca pana se aseaza ritmurile si grupurile poate exista o tensiune la
nivel de a gasi sau nu loc de cazare (dar am vazut si pelerini care mergeau cu cortul – exista
campinguri sau isi puneau cortul pe marginea drumului uneori).
In acele zile de final din 2006 am simtit ca pur si simplu ne frecam unii de altii, mai ales ca exista si o
oarecare diferenta de vibratie sau comportament intre grupul celor care aveam 25 de zile de drum
(700 de km) si ne cunosteam deja intre noi, fata de cei care erau in prima sau a doua zi de pelerinaj.
Era o placere sai privesti si in acelasi timp o situatie comica prin comparatie cand le admiram hainele
parca scoase din cutie, mersul cu febra musculara de gascan al pelerinilor incepatori, primele besici si
alte diverse probleme de acomodare sau orientare in refugii sau oras. Dar chiar si aici totul a fost in
regula, pentru ca refugiile sunt mai multe in aceasta portiune si deja aveam in cap ideea: daca nu
gasim loc unde ne-am propus mergem la urmatorul refugiu – dar nu s-a intimplat asa ceva. Ne-am
respectat programul stabilit si doar in Arzua (cu doua zile inainte de Compostela) am avut emotii, cand
lista s-a inchis dupa noi.
Din ce am vazut noi pe Camino, numarul de 4 persoane era un maxim pentru grupurile mai
compacte de pelerini care au venit impreuna sau care s-au imprietenit acolo si au continuat in comun
pelerinajul. Cand ma refer la un grup compact, e vorba de a manca, a merge, a dormi impreuna in
aceleasi refugii pe toata perioada pelerinajului. Chiar daca pe perioada zilei unii mergeau mai repede,
altii mai incet sau faceau popasuri diferite ca timp sau loc. Dar aceste persoane din grupurile
compacte se intilneau la refugiul ales sau la masa de prinz - cind stabileau un popas comun in aceeasi
locatie, pe care de comun acord si l-au programat pentru ziua respectiva. E mai dificil sa convietuiesti
si sa te deplasezi cand sunt mai multi, pentru ca si problemele cresc exponential cu numarul grupului.
Chiar daca esti impreuna cu cineva sunt foarte multe ore din perioada de mers in care esti doar tu cu
tine, chiar daca in fiecare zi poti depasi, esti depasit sau te intilnescti la popasuri cu zeci de pelerini (cu
care dupa un timp te imprietenesti si vorbesti vrute si nevrute). Sunt multi pelerini care au plecat
singuri pe Camino si acolo s-au imprietenit functie de rezonanta cu cineva si restul traseului l-au facut
impreuna. Se poate merge si de unul singur, si in 2, 3, atmosfera este foarte prietenoasa si relaxata.
Practic sunt grupuri (noi le numeam familii) de pelerini cu care ajungi sa te cunosti si te imprietenesti
datorita faptului ca te intilnesti si discuti cu ei zilnic (pe drum, dimineata, la baie, in parcuri, in
magazine, in dormitor, la terase, etc). Se creaza un grup mai mare de care apartii si care are cam
acelasi ritm de deplasare. Chiar se poarta discuti cu ei seara spre a stabili de comun acord ca maine
mergem pina la … si ne intilnim acolo.
Oricum, pelerinajul in sine este o experienta extraordinara din toate punctele de vedere. Unii traiesc
mai puternic (datorita starilor si efectelor mai clare care ies in evidenta) la nivel fizic, altii la nivel
mental sau spiritual. Indiferent de motivatie: religioasa, spirituala, sau turistica pe Camino vom da de
multe ritualuri care ne creeaza un mod si ritm de viata diferit. E vorba de ritualurile zilnice privitoare la
mers, pauze, cazare, mancare, dus, spalarea hainelor, vizite, poze, crema de picioare, etc. Repetarea
lor le da puteri fantastice. Ca o gluma, doar cand luai cutia cu crema de picioare, parca indeplineai cel
mai important ritual spiritual si traiai intens acea clipa repetata de zeci de ori. Dar exista si destule
ritualui mai religioase pe Camino, dar comparativ cu ce am vazut in alte situatii, aici preotii sunt foarte
vii, deschisi spre oricine si foarte normali, mai ales ca in biserica lor de sute de ani, zilnic intra alte zeci
si sute de pelerini din diverse colturi ale lumii. Probabil si-au creat un alt sistem de valori si o alta
mentalitate, dar oricum bisericile sunt foarte frumoase si mai ale ingrijite si pline cu flori si muzica.
Cam in fiecare localitate la biserica locala exista zilnic slujbe speciale pentru pelerini in toate limbile
posibile si concerte. Programul era afisat la refugiu si astfel am prin s cateva concerte in biserica dar si
alte manifestari muzicale in aer liber. Sunt destul de multi preoti care fac pelerinajul la Santiago, in
fiecare an am avut in grupul nostru mai largit cate unu-doi, aflam pe parcurs sau ne miram cand il
vedeam pe traseu intr-o biserica cum tinea slujba. Toti preotii de pe traseu (indiferent de tara sau alte
tipare) erau invitati sa participe la slujba de seara si tina predici in limba lor in multe biserici de pe
drum si mai ales in Catedrala din Santiago de Compostela unde am cam auzit toate limbile la cele
doua slujbe zilnice speciale pentru pelerini de la 12.00 si 19.00 unde stai alaturi de sutele de pelerini si
miile de turisti, vizitatori sau localnici.
Pe Camino ne vom intilni cu oameni din toate culturile, religiile si din toate zonele globului care pot
convietui extraordinar impreuna, respectandu-se reciproc si respectand Spania. Dar si Spania ii
respecta foarte mult, statutul de pelerin este foarte prestigios, toti localnii te saluta, te indruma, iti
zimbesc, te ajuta cu ce ai nevoie si sunt foarte amabili si deschisi. Sa nu uitam de „fiestele spaniole”,
daca exista vreun popor care stie sa se distreze si a creat un cult pentru distractie (prin modul de
pregatire, organizare si implicare a tuturor autoritatilor) acesta este cel Spaniol. Distractia dureaza
non-stop si participa toata suflarea localitatii pe parcursul celor 3 zile (am prins si mai scurte care
durau 24 de ore). Ca pelerini incercam sa ne ferim de localitatile in care aflam ca era Fiesta, pentru ca
era o noapte infernala, dar am mai nimerit de cateva ori in mijlocul acestor petreceri imense.
Mai multe informatii despre cei peste 3 000 de km strabatuti de noi pe jos in cei trei ani de pelerinaj
consecutivi spre Santiago de Compostela (2006, 2007 si 2008 prin Franta si Spania) in cartea scrisa
de Ramona „Pelerini la Santiago de Compostela - Jurnalul celor 900 de km perpedes din Pirinei
pana la Atlantic pe Camino, Ed Geea Life 2007” (disponibila in Librarie), pe CD-ul Camino
Santiago de Compostela si pe Grupul de Dialog Bon Camino despre acest traseu, la adresa
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bon_camino
Prezentarea Pelerinajului la Santiago de Compostela din

anul 2006
cei 900 de km (in 36 de zile) facuti pe jos din Franta (St Jean Pied de Port) peste
Pirinei pe traseul spre Santiago de Compostela si continuat pana la Atlantic
(Finisterra) in perioada 21 august – 25 septembrie 2006 de catre Ramona si
Marcel
In finalul paginii exista un tabel cu zilele, localitatile, locurile in care ne-am cazat, km parcursi
zilnic, perioada si cheltuielile acestui pelerinaj pentru cei interesati de detalii. Dar in general am facut
in medie 25 de km pe zi si am cheltuit cam 12 – 13 euro pe zi, incluzand cazarea, mancarea, lichidele
si suvenirurile (fara transport).
In primul an am plecat in 18 august, vineri pe la ora 19.00 cu autobuzul pe ruta Timisoara – Toulouse,
unde am ajuns in 20 august, duminica pe la ora 14.00, (pierzind un tren care a plecat de sub nasul
nostru (din cauza intirzierii de vreo 3 ore a autocarului, ar fi trebuit sa ajunga la 11.15). Intepeniti si
obositi dupa doua nopti pe scaunele din autocar am luat trenul urmator spre St. Jean Pied De Port
(locul cel mai renumit si aglomerat de adunare a pelerinilor) unde am ajuns seara.
Ne-am ridicat Pasaportul de Pelerin (carnetul care trebuie vizat zilnic la refugiile de pe traseu si doar
conforma caruia esti acceptat la cazarile mai ieftine pentru pelerini) de la Oficiul Pelerinilor care e
deschis pina dupa ultimul tren care ajunge in St Jean, ne-am mai cumparat si cite o scoica pentru a o
atirna de rucsac, la fel ca ceilalti pelerini. Ajungind tirziu in St. Jean Pied De Port, am gasit cazarea
putin mai scumpa, celelalte locuri mai ieftine erau ocupate. Ne-am cazat, am facut un dus, o mica
plimbare de seara si apoi ne-am culcat cu gindul de a dormi vreo doua zile dupa stressul si oboseala
din autobuz (43 de ore) si tren (5 ore), dar a doua zi dimineata la 6.30 am fost in picioare si la 7.30
eram deja pe drum.
Dimneata ne simteam atit de odihniti (ne-am culcat dupa ora 23) incit am ales drumul spre Pirinei. Am
plecat la 7.30 (una dintre cele mai tirzii plecari ale noastre pe traseu) si am ajuns la Roncesvalles la
15.50, oricum prea repede (am mai stat la soare sus pe virf si vreo jumatate de ora la Capalla
DÌbaneta- la 1.5 km de Roncesvalles) deoarece refugiul se deschide abia la 16.00 si erau destul de
multi pelerini la coada. In Roncesvalles exista un singur dormitor cu 180 – 200 de paturi.
In general tendoane genunchii si gleznele sunt cele mai solicitate, lasand la o parte musculatura, mai
ale ca in prima zi am avut urcusul si coborasul prin Pirinei la o altitudine de aproape 1500 de m. Cheia
este ca in primele zile sa se faca pauze cit mai dese, la 45 de minute de mers, 10-15 minute de
pauza, astfel corpul se reface si acomodarea e mai armonioasa. Cu timpul si functie de intrarea in ritm
a fiecaruia sau functie de traseu se poate alege alta varianta. Sunt diverse geluri si creme are ajuta
circulatia si mareste elasticitatea tendoanelor sau genunchiere si fase elastice. Noi dimineata
mergeam mai incet sa nu transpiram si facem primul popas cind venea soarele si ne incalzea placut la
o terasa sa la iarba verde. Dar ca regula stabileam ca la o ora sau maxim 2 sa facem pauza si
lucrurile au mers perfect, chiar daca mergeam mai repede unul fata de celalalt, ne intalneam la pauza
sau la refugiu stabilit pentru cazare.
Se poate face traversarea Pirineilor din doua bucati dormind o noapte la refugiul de la poalele
Pirineilor, facind astfel drumul St. Jean Pied de Port – Roncesvalles in 2 etape. Dar foarte multi
pelerini incep din Roncesvalles evitand prima zi mai dura de Pirinei, nici asta nu e nici o problema.
Pasaportul este disponibil si puteti sa-l primiti si din St. Jean Pied de Port si din Roncesvalles.
Sau daca plecati din St. Jean Pied de Port dimineata la 6, mergeti cu multe pauze si mai incet pentru
acomodare, mai faceti o plaja, un somn de prinz pe la umbra, etc … deoarece de abia pe la 16.00 se
deschide refugiul din Roncesvalles, deci 10 ore pentru 28 de Km- iar ca altitudine - St Jean Pied de
Port (163 m) – Auberge Orrison (650 m) – Col de Bentarte (1344) - Astobiscar (1410 m) – Col de
Lepoeder (1430 m) - Roncesvalles (962 m)
Din 21 aug am inceput marsul, 36 de zile pina la Atlantic - Cabo_Finisterre unde am ajuns in 25
septembrie. Media a fost de 25 km pe zi, dar au fost si citeva zile cind am mers peste 30 de km, altele
mai putin, in functie de cum am hotarit noi sa impartim traseul. Am avut un ghid tiparit in limba
germana din 2004 si diverse harti sau informatii luate de pe traseu. Alegeam cazarile din timp ca
organizare si orasele mai mari in care erau mai multe obiective de vizitat, magazine mai bine
aprovizionate sau refugii mai mari si mai multe. Eram atenti si chiar cu timpul puteam sa ne calculam
la programul de mers pe traseu, fata ora la care se deschidea refugiul urmator ales si posibilitatea de
cumparaturi, deoarece majoritatea magazinelor din Spania erau inchise intre orele 14.00 – 17.30, sau
in unele localitati nu exista nici un magazin de la care sa cumperi de mincare, dar toate acestea erau
specificate in ghid sau pliantele culese de pe drum.
Am cheltuit pentru transport 500 euro pentru autobuz dus- intors doua persoane, 160 euro tren
Toulouse - St Jean Pied du Port doua persoane , 22 euro autobuz intoarcere Finisterre - Santiago
doua persoane, 112 euro tren Santiago - Madrid amindoi, plus cheltuielile zilnice sau mici cadouri. Cu
toate cumparaturile, fiind zile in care cheltuiam mai mult, altele mai putin, am ajuns la o medie de 25
euro pentru doua persoane pe zi, ceea ce este destul de bine si chiar ieftin.
Spania este mai ieftina decit ne-am inchipuit initial. Noi am avut o medie de 12.5 euro de persoana
cheltuiti pe zi, dar vorbind cu altii, unii aveau o medie de 20 euro, altii 30 euro pe zi si probabil exista
variante mai scumpe - ne-am referit doar la cei din anturajul nostru, cu care am parcurs impreuna
majoritatea traseului. Noi ne-am descurcat cu 1 000 de euro de persoana pentru toate cheltuielile
existente si nu am dus lipsa de nimic, se cheltuia foarte mult pe lichide in portiunea de Meseta (un fel
de desert ari fara nici o umbra care dureaza cateva zile), dar am mai ajuns acasa si cu ceva euro in
buzunar. Am ajuns in Spania cu 2 Kg de alune crude, 2 Kg de stafide, fructe uscate, pungi de seminte,
1 kg miere, 2 kg de azime (paine dint tarate de grau uscate la soare), pe care le-am consumat in
popasurile de dimineata de pe parcursul primelor 2 saptamini. Nu am exagerat cu barurile si terasele,
unde ne mai opream sau mai mergeam din cind in cind cu alti pelerini. In ultima perioada de vint si
ploaie situatia s-a schimbat, deoarece simteam nevoia sa intram intr-un local sa bem ceva cald si sa
se mai zvante hainele. In caz de ploaie si vant, pelerina impermeabila mai lunga si larga care sa
acopere si rucsacul este absolut necesara si foarte utila (noi ne-am cumparat doua pelerine din
Spania).
Oferta din supermarketuri prin diverse lanturi de magazine e identica cu restul Europei, chiar si cu
Romania, toate tipurile de legume, fructe, seminte, fructe uscate, semipreparate, lactate si brinzeturi,
mai putin cas si doar o data am gasit telemea proaspata, deci, ca vegetarieni sau naturisti cum ne
descurcam in Romania sau alta tara, la fel de bine ne-am descurcat si in Spania.
Cu putina organizare lucrurile se rezolva, ne uitam in Ghid si vedem ce traseu avem, pe unde am vrea
sa ne oprim, ce e de vizitat si ce utilitati au localitatile de pe parcurs (ca magazine, biserici, obiective si
refugii pentru pelerini) si cam la ce ora vom ajunge, deoarece intre 14.00 si 17.30 majoritatea
magazinelor din Spania (mai ales in orasele mai marunte) sunt inchise, iar duminica de tot. In localitati
foarte mici, nici nu exista vreun magazin, eventual o brutarie si un bar (la care se poate mica un
sandwich sau o gogoasa). La unele refugii hostalerul pregateste o masa de seara gratuita din partea
casei pentru toti pelerinii (de vreo 5-6 ori ne-am intilnit cu aceasta situatie dar am participat doar odata
cind parea mai vegetariana).
In bucatariile refugiilor exista un colt cu mancare gratuita, lasata de alti pelerini, de unde fiecare se
poate servi sau lasa ce are in plus (deobicei erau paste, cafea, cacao, sucuri, sosuri, conserve, etc).
Dar unii pelerini gaseau destule pentru a pune de o masa sau de a o completa pe a lor. Intr-o zi mi-am
pus o conserva de bere in frigider sa se mai raceasca si nu m-am uitat ce scrie pe frigider, dar m-a
chemat Ramona repede cand Bill se dadea la ea si am recuperat-o vazind ce scrie pe frigider – ca
totul e la liber.
Bineinteles ca varianta pentru majoritatea pelerinilor erau restaurantele si barurile de pe parcurs unde
luau micul dejun, prinzul si cina (cei cu 3 mese pe zi erau majoritari). Noi am mers pe o singura masa
spre ora 16- 17 si o cafea cu lapte, biscuti, alune, stafide sau fructe uscate pe la 9-10 si destul de
multe lichide pe parcurs.
Cind vedeam pe traseu ca era o zi fara vreun oras mai mare, ne cumparam cu o zi inainte in plus un
pachet de unt, o brinza, un ardei, o ceapa, o varza, o conserva de ciuperci sau masline, niste fructe
(erau si zile cind nu aveai fructe pe marginea drumului) sau ce gaseam sau consideram ca ne este
necesar. Chiar daca rucsacul era putin mai greu nu se simtea acest lucru. Lubenita sau pepenele
galben, il luam doar cand trebuia sa le caram din apropierea refugiului. Uneori taiam legumele si
faceam noi salata cum vrem in incinta bucatariei refugiului. Dar aveam la noi doua farfurii de plastic,
cutit, lingurite, pahare si nu depindeam de ustensilele lor din bucatarie, asa ca ne puteam face salata
in curtea refugiului, in parc sau pe cimp … In dormitorul refugiului e interzis sa maninci sau sa bei - de
aceea sunt amenajate terase, sali de mese, bucatarii, holuri, curte interioara cu banci La majoritatea
refugiilor erau automate pentru cafea, ciocolata, bere, sucuri, si alte chestii de rontait.
Cred ca fiecare are un sistem si un ritm particular de mancare, si e foarte probabil ca pe Camino sa-l
schimbe, la fel poate schimba si tipurile de alimente. Daca se accepta cu calm lucrurile asa cum sunt
la nivel de mancare, dormitor, dusuri si toalete uneori mai reduse ca numar, fara a reactiona si a
manifesta diverse mofturi sau egoisme, lucrurile vor fi forte simple spre a te adapta la acest sistem de
viata. Lucrurile se rezolva de la sine si te vei preocupa mai mult la starile interioare si trairea
experientelor zilnice.
Comparativ cu alimentatia, la fel de important e echipamentul sau starea tuturor celor din grup. La
nivel de echipament in primul rind e vorba de picioare. Pe camino ne-am dat seama cat de important
este sa ne dam cu crema pe picioare in fiecare zi pentru a avea pielea fina si elastica. Conteaza si
protectia anti-soare, fiecare cum crede de cuvinta sau cum s-a obisnuit. Iar la nivel de grup, ritmul va fi
diferit si e bine sa fie asa, fara comentarii prea multe. Seara se vor intalni toti la refugiu sau pe
parcursul zilei la diverse popasuri si o sa se ia masa impreuna, o sa mergeti pe terase, o sa vizitati, o
sa dormiti in paturi alaturate, o sa asteptati unul dupa altul la plecare de dis-de-dimineata, etc.
Armonia dintre pelerini care au stabilita sa mearga impreuna conteaza si influenteaza ambianta si
vibratia pelerinajului. Pentru cei care merg insotiti in grup de 2-3 persoane, vor fi momente (am vazut
la ceilalti si la noi) cand fiecare va trece prin zile mai bune sau mai putin bune, momente mai critice
sau mai pline de energie care pot isca tensiuni – e bine sa nu reactionati si fiecare sa lase de la el,
daca vreti sa mergeti si sa va intoarceti impreuna. Tensiunile si Bucuriile sunt la fel de mari pe
Camino.
In primele 21 de zile nu am vazut strop de ploaie si temperaturile erau de peste 40 de grade uneori,
deci va imaginati cum se transpira si care era cantitatea de lichide bauta zilnic. Astfel ca ajungeai la
refugiu si in primul rand faceai dus (hainele de pe tine le puteai stoarce) si iti spalai hainele cu care ai
mers. Unii faceau inca un dus seara, pentru ca dupa o plimbare prin oras se intorceau transpirati iar
noaptea era posibil sa mai ai inca un tricou de spalat pentru a doua zi din cauza caldurii. Deci, toti
pelerinii faceau zilnic baie, si isi spalau hainele, pentru ca fiecare refugiu este dotat cu dusuri si
spalator – doua chestii distincte care nu e bine sa se confunde. In general corpul miroase si transpira
in functie de ceea ce maninca. Sa nu uitam si de mirosul bocancilor, oricum era interzis sa intri cu ei in
dormitor si aveau rastele si locuri speciale de depozitare.
A fost si o zi cind a plouat permanent si am mers continuu fara pauza 4 ore jumatate tot traseul. Nu
prea iti venea sa stai pe loc in acea combinatie de vint si ploaie, eventual daca intrai intr-un bar sa te
incalzesti cum am facut de citeva ori- am prins si un semineu unde ne-am uscat hainele. In zilele cand
hainele nu apucau sa se usuce, le prindeam de rucsac a doua zi la Soare cu ace de siguranta si
mergand ele se usau perfect.
In perioada noastra de pelerinaj 21 aug - 27 sept 2006, cel putin cu 15 persoane cu care am plecat din
St Jean Pied de Port ne-am intilnit in Santiago de Compostela si bineinteles aproape zilnic, chiar daca
in citeva zile au dormit la un refugiu dinaintea sau din urma noastra (fiind vorba de cativa km). Noi
formau dupa cum spuneau italienii (erau 7) din acest grup o familie. Altii au avut un ritm mai lent, am
mers cu ei primele 7 – 10 zile, apoi nu i-am mai vazut, pe altii i-am ajuns din urma si am mers cu ei
cate o saptamina, apoi ori noi ori ei au mers in alt ritm, etc - plus cazurile celor care au intrerupt
pelerinajul din cauza numarului de zile libere sau alte probleme.
Cu aceste persoane cu care zilnic ai stat la coada de la dus, ai spalat linga ei hainele, ai iesit
impreuna la o terasa, te-ai intilnit de citeva ori pe zi in timpul mersului, prin magazine, orase, parcuri,
biserici, ai dormit in paturi alaturate s-au creat legaturi deosebite si eram ca o familie adevarata,
intrebam unul de altul si ne facem probleme de ce intirzie .. sau unde e .. Multi dintre acestia apar in
poza finala de grup de langa intrarea in Catedrala din Santiago de Compostela, cand ne-am strans toti
impreuna si ne-am luat ramas bun. Erau doua grupuri de italieni, 4 si 3
persoane, era Jeff si Bil (unul din Belgia, celalalt din Canada- ei s-au cunoscut in prima zi si apoi au
fost nedespartiti in celelalte 36 de zile), un grup de 4 francezi, o elvetianca si spaniolii, grupati cite 2, 3
si 4.
Paturile din refugii era dotate cu o saltea, un cearsaf si o perna. Uneori cred ca ei spalau zilnic
cearceafurile si fetele de perne, pentru ca in majoritatea locurilor le-am gasit curate. Multe refugii se
deschideau doar pe la 12-30 – 13.30, astfel ca ei sa aiba timp de la ora 8.00 cand trebuie sa parasesti
refugiul si momentul de deschidere sa faca curatenie, deci nu e prea usoara viata de Hostaler, mai
ales ca ei sunt voluntari. Refugiile erau deservite de voluntari din diverse tari sau din partea primariei,
asociatiilor sau bisericii locale care se schimbau din 2 in 2 saptamani, dar erau si refugii private (putin
mai scumpe, dar si conditiile pe masura). Practic, fiecare pelerin avea sacul lui de dormit in care
dormea sau eventual dormea pe sacul deschis cind era prea cald, punand un tricou sau prosopul
peste perna. La majoritatea refugiilor poate merge cineva mai repede sa tina locuri (paturi ocupate
pentru ceilalti din grup ca sa se stea impreuna – se puneau diverse obiecte vestimentare pe acestea),
doar in partea finala mai aproape de Compostela, am gasit un refugiu in care nu putea retine mai
multe locuri. Dar sa nu uitam ca variantele de traseu zilnic sau de cazare sunt multiple, in acelasi oras
sau la cativa km mai incolo, functie de ce trasee face fiecare zilnic si in ce refugii poposeste.
Tabel cu zilele, orasele, km, ore plecare - sosire la refugiu si cheltuieli zilnice (in care
sunt incluse cazarile) pentru pelerinajul pe Camino Francez 2006
Zi Data / zi sapt Loc. Plecare Loc. din Traseu Loc. Cazare Km drum
00 20 aug 06 D Toulouse (Tren) St Jean Pied de Port
80.80 euro plecare: 16.33 sosire: 21.22 total chelt: 26 euro cazare: 20 euro/ 2 pers
Tren/ 2 pers
01 21 aug 06 L St Jean Pied de Port (Astobiscar 1410m) Roncesvalles 28 km
plecare: 7.30 sosire: 15.50 total chelt: 15 euro cazare: 10 euro/ 2 pers 8.20 Ore
02 22 aug 06 M Roncesvalles (Zubiri) Larrasoana 26.5 km
plecare: 7.15 sosire: 15.45 total chelt: 24.35 cazare: 12 euro/ 2 pers 8.30 Ore
euro
03 23 aug 06 Mi Larrasoana (Pamplona) Cizur Menor 20.7 km
euro
04 24 aug 06 J Cizur Menor (Obanos) Puente la Reina 23.1 km
euro
05 25 aug 06 V Puente la Reina (Cirauqui) Estella 24 km
euro
06 26 aug 06 S Estella Villamayor de Los Arcos 21.3 km
Monjardin)
euro
07 27 aug 06 D Los Arcos (Viana) Logrono 28.7 km
euro
08 28 aug 06 L Logrono (Parcul Grajera) Najera 30.7 km
plecare: 6.40 sosire: 13.40 total chelt: 25.50 cazare: 7 euro/ 2 pers 7 Ore
euro
09 29 aug 06 M Najera (Ciruena 754m) St Domingo de la 20.5 km
Calzada
plecare: 6.50 sosire: 12.20 total chelt:17.21 cazare: 6 euro/ 2 pers 5.30 Ore
euro
10 30 aug 06 Mi St Domingo de la Calzada (Granon) Belorado 23.5 km
euro
11 31 aug 06 J Belorado (Montes de Oca Atapuerca 30.9 km
1162m)
euro
12 01 sep 06 V Atapuerca (Matagrande Burgos 23 km
1078m)
euro
13 02 sep 06 S Burgos (Hornillos del Camino) Hontanas 30.5 km
euro
14 03 sep 06 D Hontanas (Castrojeritz) Boadilla del Camino 30.5 km
euro
15 04 sep 06 L Boadilla del Camino (Villalcazar de Carrion de los Condes 25.3 km
Sirga)
euro
16 05 sep 06 M Carrion de los Condes (Via Aquitana) Terradillos de los 27.9 km
Templarios
euro
17 06 sep 06 Mi Terradillos de los Templarios (Sahagun) Bercianos del Real 24.1 km
Camino
euro
18 07 sep 06 J Bercianos del Real Camino (Reliegos) Mansilla de las Mulas 24.3 km
euro
19 08 sep 06 V Mansilla de las Mulas (Puente Villarente) Leon 17.4 km
euro
20 09 sep 06 S Leon (Villadangos del Paramo) San Martin del 25.2 km
Camino
euro
21 10 sep 06 D San Martin del Camino (Puente de Orbigo) Astorga 24 km
euro
22 11 sep 06 L Astorga Sta Catalina de Foncebadon 27 km
Somoza)
plecare: 6.45 sosire: 12.45 total chelt: 21 euro cazare: 6 euro/ 2 pers 6 Ore
23 12 sep 06 M Foncebadon (Cruz de Ferro) Ponferrada 28.9 km
euro
24 13 sep 06 Mi Ponferrada (Cacabelos) Villafranca del Bierzo 26.5 km
euro
25 14 sep 06 J Villafranca del Bierzo (Laguna 916m) O Cebreiro 28.5 km
plecare: 7.10 sosire: 14.00 total chelt:28 euro cazare: 6 euro/ 2 pers 6.50 Ore
26 15 sep 06 V O Cebreiro (Padornelo) Triacastela 22 km
27 16 sep 06 S Triacastela (Samos) Sarria 22 km
28 17 sep 06 D Sarria (A Brea) Portomarin 23 km
euro
29 18 sep 06 L Portomarin (Ventas de Naron) Palas de Rei 25 km
euro
30 19 sep 06 M Palas de Rei (Melide) Arzua 29 km
31 20 sep 06 Mi Arzua (Lavacolla) Monte de Gozo 33 km
euro
32 21 sep 06 J Monte de Gozo () Santiago de 5 km
Compostela
33 22 sep 06 V Santiago de Compostela (Puente Macceira) Negreira 23.8 km
34 23 sep 06 S Negreira (Bar Vilaserio) Olveiroa 32 km
euro
35 24 sep 06 D Olveiroa (Cee) Corcubion 20.4 km
36 25 sep 06 L Corcubion (Plaja Escaselas) Finisterre 11.5 km
euro
37 26 sep 06 M Finisterre (Autobuz) Santiago de
Compostela
21.70 euro plecare: 16.30 sosire: 18.55 total chelt: 33.35 cazare: 10 euro/ 2 pers
Autobuz/ 2 pers euro
38 27 sep 06 Mi Santiago de Compostela (Tren) Madrid
111.40 euro plecare: 22.35 sosire: 7.50 total chelt: 52.40
Tren/ 2 pers euro
500 euro Total Cazare = 309
Autobuz dus/ euro/ 2 pers: 38 zile=
intors
8.13 euro: 2 pers =
medie de 4.07 euro/
pers pe zi la cazare
Total Chelt Cheltuieli pe drum Timisoara - Total Cheltuieli
Transport= Toulouse si Madrid – Timisoara = zilnice (inclusiv
714 euro/ 2 18 euro / 2 pers cazarea) = 1 068 Total= 714+ 18+ 1
pers euro/ 2 pers 068= 1800 euro /2
persoane

anul 2007
cei 1 250 de km (in 44 de zile) facuti pe jos din Franta (Moissac – St Jean Pied
de Port, 325 de km in Franta -12 zile), apoi peste Pirinei pe traseul din Spania
spre Compostela si continuat pana la Atlantic (Finisterra si Muxia) in perioada
26 iulie – 11 septembrie 2007 de catre Ramona si Marcel (al doilea pelerinaj)
In finalul paginii exista un tabel cu zilele, localitatile, locurile in care ne-am cazat in 2007 si
km parcursi zilnic, pentru cei interesati de detalii. In general am facut in medie 28 - 30 de km pe zi si
am cheltuit cam 13 – 14 euro pe zi, incluzand cazarea, papa si suvenirurile (fara transport).
Fata de anul trecut cand am mers cu autobuzul (Timisoara –Toulouse si Madrid –Timisoara plus
trenuri) si am stat ingesuiti intre scaune si manele 100 de ore platind 500 de euro pentru 2 persoane
dus – intors cu autobuzul, anul acesta am ales varianta avionului (mai rapida, ieftina si odihnitoare).
Anul trecut am avut efectiv la dispozitie 38 de zile (fara perioada de autobuz si tren), iar anul acesta
ne-am rezervat 47 de zile (din care 44 pentru mers efectiv pe Camino), in ideea de a sta mai mult la
Atlantic si sa prindem 12 zile de traseu prin Franta (325 de km).
Am pleca cu avionul din Budapesta (Terminal 1) in 26 iulie la ora 13.05 cu Wizzair si am ajuns la
Paris (Aeroportul Beauvais care este langa Paris) la ora 15.20, am aflat ca exista curse regulate din
aeroport spre oras la pretul de 13 euro /persoana, dar am venit in Paris cu masina unui roman cu care
ne-am imprietenit in avion. Avionul Budapesta - Paris a costat 163 euro/ 2 persoane. Drumul
Timisoara – Budapesta tur-retur este asigurat contra cost 170 euro/ 2 persoane de catre firma de la
care am cumparat biletele de avion din Timisoara, ei ne-au luat de acasa si ne-au duc la avion, la fel si
pentru intoarcere. La primele cheltuieli, putem sa mai adaugam si asigurarea pentru 48 de zile (53
RON de persoana in limita de 50 000 euro, depinde de fiecare si de firma).
La intoarcere am decolat din Madrid (Aeroport Barajas –Terminal 1) in 11 septembrie la ora 14.55 cu
Smartwings si am ajuns in Budapesta (Terminal 2) la ora 18.00. Fiind o zi simbolica am aflat ca s-au
vandut bilete si inainte de plecarea avionului, aproape la jumatate de pret fata de rezervarea noastra
cu 3 luni inainte. Aici ne-au asteptat cei de la firma care ne-au adus pana acasa cu masina. Pretul
avionului Madrid – Budapesta a fost 180 euro/ 2 persoane.
In Paris am mers cu metroul imediat cum am ajuns (cu rucsacii dupa noi) la Societe des amis de
Saint-Jacques de Compostelle (Societatea prietenilor Sfantului Iacob) de unde ne-am luat
Pasapoartele de Pelerini si cateva pliante. Adresa am gasit-o pe internet www.compostelle.asso.fr, la
fel programul si modul de acces. Societe des amis de Saint-Jacques de Compostelle - 8 rue des
Canettes 75006 Paris Tel: 01 43 54 32 90. D'anciens pelerins assurent benevolement une
permanence les mardi, mercredi et jeudi apres-midi entre 14h30 et 18h30 au 8, rue des Canettes,
75006 Paris (metro: Saint-Germain, Saint-Sulpice ou Mabillon; bus 63, 86, 39, 95, 70 et 87). Ils
renseignent les futurs pelerins de vive-voix et par telephone (01 43 54 32 90), et envoient la
documentation a ceux qui la sollicitent.
Ne-am cazat apoi la Biserica Ortodoxa Romana din Paris (Biserica Sfintii Arhangheli Mihail, Gavriil si
Rafail), pentru o noapte, in urma legaturilor si indicatiei oferite de Dragos si Rebeca din Paris. Adresa
si locatia ei este nr. 9 pe str. Jean de Beauvais, strada face legatura intre Bulevardul St Germain si
Rue des Ecoles care sunt paralele una cu alta iar statia de Metro cea mai aproape e Maubert-
Mutualite pe linia 10. Pe pagina web a bisericii
http://www.egliseroumaine.com/noi-dvs/primire/primire.htm se poate vedea si o harta. Am apucat sa
vizitam cateva ore Parisul, in special Catedrala Notre Dame, piata plina de lume din fata in care se
intimplau cele mai diverse lucruri si faleza Senei.
Dimineata (27 iulie) am mers la marginea Parisului sa facem stopul pana la Moissac, locul pe care l-
am stabilit ca punct de incepere a mersului pe jos. Avem un ghid pentru varianta Camino de Le Puy
din Franta (in limba germana) pe traseul Le Puy la St Jean Pied de Port. Si vom intra in traseu la
Moissac, de unde sunt 325 de km pina in Pirinei la St. Jean Pied-de-Port. Am ales Moissac pentru ca
se incadra in numarul de zile pe care le aveam la dispozitie, este un oras mai mare, are gara si
posibilitate de a veni din Paris cu trenul (in caz ca nu rezolvam varianta cu stopul) ori via Agen, ori via
Mantauban). Dar stopul a mers bine (mai greu am iesit din Paris pe directia pe care o doream), ne-a
luat un batranel care considera ca e periculos ce facem si ne-a dus cat a avut drum. A urmat o masina
de interventie si reparatii a strazilor, care ne-a explicat ca nu e voia sa facem stopul pe autostrada si e
mai bine sa facem stopul intr-o parcare cu statie de benzina, astfel ca ne-a dus pina la prima statie.
Aici ne-am inscriptionat coli ministeriale cu Toulouse sau Bordeaux si am prins o masina pentru cea
mai mare parte a drumului. In a doua parcare, am inscriptionat hartia cu Montauban (care era pe
drumul principal cam la 25 de km de Moissac). Am ajuns si in Montauban, aici o alta masina ne-a dus
la gara sa vedem daca avem vreun tren pentru ultimii 25 de km pentru ca era deja intuneric. Nu era
nici un tren pina dimineata, asa ca am luat-o pe jos spre Moissac, poate, poate ne ia cineva si dupa
cativa km am montat cortul la limita dintre o livada si o plantatie de vie. Dimineata (28 iulie sambata)
ne-am strins lucrurile si am prins ultima masina pina in Moissac. Am mers la centrul de pelerini sa ne
punem prima stampila si am plecat la drum spre Auvillar.
In primele zile am intilnit foarte putini pelerini, dar foarte multi biciclisti sau turisti fiind sfarsit de
saptamana. In perioada franceza a pelerinajului, am avut cativa stropi de ploaie, in rest vreme placuta
pentru a merge. Franta este frumoasa si foarte ingrijita pina la cele mai mici detalii, ma refer la zona
rurala si la micile orasele de pe drum. Poate am avut un soc la intilnirea cu un sistem privat in care am
gasit lacuri, cimitire, biserici si palate pe teren particular, inconjurate de garduri. De multe ori traseul de
pelerinaj trecea prin proprietati private si eram intimpinati cu anunturile, treceti, dar nu e voie: sa va
opriti, sa campati, sa faceti baie, sa culegeti ciuperci, etc. Erau zile intregi cind nu gaseai o sursa de
apa potabila pe traseu, acestea se gaseau doar in localitatile mai rasarite (cu mai mult de 10 case),
unde in centru era scoala, primaria, apa, telefon, toaleta publica si foarte rar o terasa sau magazin.
Practic zona rurala a Frantei strabatuta de noi in cele 12 zile este formata din ferme (un fel de conac
cu anexe si multe culturi in jur) citeva alomerari de case si orasele destul de mici dar foarte frumoase.
Refugiile erau pe la mai multe ferme, gospodarii particulare, in satele din drum si bineinteles in cele
citeva orase de pe traseu, apartineu de primarie sau de asociatie. Uneori indicatia era sa mergi in
exteriorul traseului de pelerinaj (stinga - dreapta) 1-3 km pentru a te caza. Ideea de refugiu, pensiune
sau mini hotel este mai aproape de realitate, pentru ca, existau si refugii comparative cu Spania dar si
mini-pensiuni de 2-3 locuri pe la vreun localnic. Daca am fi facut inainte Franta si apoi Spania, probabil
nu ne miram de faptul ca in Franta pelerinajul este mai slab dezvoltat, organizat sau implicat in viata
oamenilor de pe traseu. Acest lucru poate fi si din cauza ca nu exista destui pelerini pe aceste trasee,
si atunci apare o combinatie convenabila localniciloe, turistilor si pelerinilor. In Franta nu am gasit nici
un refugiu special doar pentru pelerini in care te cazezi doar pe baza Pasaportului de Pelerin si al
stampilei din el. Refugiile (case particulare, moteluri, pensiuni, etc) erau folosite si de turistii din zona,
iar la majoritatea se facea rezervare prin telefon. La fel ca in Spania refugiile din orase erau mai
cautate decit cele izolate in care nu prea aveai ce face sau ce vizita. In prima parte franceza in doua
localitati (Sauboires si Castet Arrouy) am stat doar noi doi, singuri in intreg refugiul. Dar a venit si
reversul medaliei cind nu am gasit locuri si am mers 41 de km intr-o zi pina la primul refugiu (Aire sur
lÀdour) cu locuri libere. Intre timp ne-a luat si noi o cartela telefonica si am facut rezervari pe citeva
zile inainte in refugiile pe care le-a ales pentru innoptare (faceam rezervare chiar si pentru saltele daca
nu mai erau paturi). Dar in toate refugiile in care am stat si care se considerau pline ca rezervare,
seara ramaneau libere citeva paturi (probabil nu le onorau cei care faceau rezervarile). Ideea era
absurda, chiar daca am incercat sa o intelegem, mai ales ca am vazut pelerini trimisi mai departe, cum
am patit si noi.
Ca numar de pelerini, am intilnit tot mai multi in partea finala dinspre Pirinei, dar constant ne
intilneam cu vreo 12-14, iar majoritatea dintre ei au mers si prin Spania, unii mai putin functie de
concediu, altii pina la Compostela. In general preturile din Franta sunt mai mari ca in Spania, iar
preturile la refugii scadeu cu cit te apropiai de Spania, de la 15 euro spre 8 euro de persoana.
Conditiile erau pe masura pretului, asternuturi curate, multe aveau micul dejun inclus si camere de 2-4
locuri, cu acces usor spre baie sau toaleta. Am avut si camera cu dus propriu la cele 2 paturi. Deci,
conditiile s-au ridicat la nivelul pretului, mai ale ca majoritatea erau pensiuni in care putea dormi
oricine (doar ca erau trecute in ghidurile de pelerinaj).
Obisnuiti cu sistemul de pelerinaj trait cu un an inainte in Spania, pe camino Francez am inghiti putin
in gol la nivel de atmosfera, dar ne-am obisnuit repede cu ideea ca nu avem cafenele, terase, locuri de
popas amenajate, apa potabila, magazine si pelerini pe drum. Prin comparatie cu Spania, bisericile din
Franta pareau parasite, aratau mai neingrijite, fara flori, fara muzica sau fara cineva care sa te
intimpine sau sa-si faca de lucru pe acolo. Vorbim de cele in care am reusit sa intram, din orasele mai
mari si de la intrarea in localitati (unde era cimitirul, biserica, locul cu apa potabila, deci, si popasul
pelerinilor) pentru ca majoritatea erau inchise.
La nivel de cheltuieli zilnice pentru pelerinajul din 2007, in perioada celor 12 zile din Franta media a
fost de 33 de euro pe zi la 2 persoane, cazare si papa (deoarece am mai venit din Romania cu alune,
fructe uscate, seminte, miere, etc, altfel pretul ar mai fi crescut). In Spania fiind 32 de zile am facut
media cheltuielilor odata la 8 zile, rezultind astfel 4 perioade in lungul traseului. Astfel ca media
cheltuielilor zilnice pentru o persoana a fost de: 11-12 euro /pers in prima perioada, 13-14 euro /pers
in a doua perioada, 12-13 euro /pers in a treia perioada si 9-10 euro /pers in a patra si ultima perioada.
La acestea se mai adauga autobuzul de intoarcere Finisterre – Santiago 11,2 euro /pers si trenul
Santiago – Madrid 43,6 euro ca transport in afara de avion.
In 2007, fata de 2006, am prins o vreme mai normala (poate zilele cu vinturi mai puternice sunt cele
care ne-au limitat timpul de deplasare), fara canicula, fara ploi sau furtuni mai lungi. Astfel ca se putea
merge si peste ora 13-14, iar pelerinii plecau la drum putin mai tirziu, nu cu noaptea in cap. Din punct
de vedere fizic ne-am simtit mult mai bine, majoritatea problemelor aparute in 2006 au fost evitate
(besici, rosaturi, dureri la articulatie, muschi, starea de raceala). Am incercat pe cit posibil sa alegem
alte localitati de cazare sau cel putin in acelasi oras sa alegem alte refugii. Erau locuri pe care le-am
uitat, altele care au ramas intiparite clar in mintea noastra, uneori am intilnit hostaleri din 2006. In
general orientarea in orase si pe traseu era foarte usoara, ne simteam ca acasa si cunosteam deja
bine traseul cu urcusurile si coborisurile lui, locurile de cumparaturi, de apa, conditiile de la refugii si
cind se deschid, timpi necesari de la unu la altul, etc. (Aveam si carnetelul cu notitele din 2006 si
uneori ma uitam in el ca sa vad cit mai avem de mers si ce gasim la cazarea respectiva sau pe drum).
In plus fata de 2006 prin Spania am facut si drumul dus – intors, Finisterre – Muxia, unde am dormit o
noapte si am prins un mare festival de muzica cu petrecerea nocturna de rigoare.
Au fost zile si perioade in care am mers separat, am dormit in localitati diferite, acest lucru s-a
intimplat in partea finala a traseului prin Spania, dar ne-am reintalnit in Catedrala din Santiago de
Compostela. Tabelul de mai jos este cu refugiile in care a innoptat Marcel.

Tabel cu Zilele de pe Camino 2007 perioada 26 iulie-11 septembrie

Localitatile prin care am trecut in fiecare zi
00 – 26 iulie 2007 (Joi) – Masina Timisoara – Budapesta si Avion Budapesta – Paris
00 – 27 iulie 2007 (Vineri) – Paris – Montauban – Moissac (cu Stopul – 4 masini diferite)
Ziua 01 – 28 iulie 2007 (Sambata) - Moissac – Auvillar –

Moissac – Raul La Garonne - Malul Raului Le Tarn – Boudou – Malause – Pommervic – Espalais –
Auvillar - 22 km –
Ziua 02 – 29 iulie 2007 (Duminica) – Auvillar – Castet-Arrouy -

Auvillar – Bardigues – Rau Arrats - Saint Antoine – Flamarens – Gauran – Miradoux - Castet-Arrouy -
23 km -
Ziua 03 – 30 iulie 2007 (Luni) – Castet-Arrouy – La Romieu -
Castet-Arrouy - Ferme de Barrachin – Boue – Pitrac – Lectoure – Pradoulin – Marsolan - La Romieu -

29 km -
Ziua 04 – 31 iulie 2007 (Marti) – La Romieu – Montreal-du-Gers -
La Romieu – Castelnau sur lÀuvignon - Chapelle dÀbrin – La Mauraque – Chapelle Sainte-Germaine

– Le Baradieu – Fromagere – Condom – Vigneau – Larresingle – Lauraet – Pont dÀrtigues – Routges
– Lassalle-Baque - Montreal-du-Gers - 33 km -
Ziua 05 – 01 august 2007 (Miercuri) – Montreal-du-Gers – Sauboires -

Montreal-du-Gers – Lamothe – Escoubet – Eauze – Penabert – Peyret – Sauboires - 24 km -
Ziua 06 – 02 august 2007 (Joi) – Sauboires – Aire-sur-lÀdour -

Sauboires – Manciet – Eglise-Hospital Sainte-Cristine – Gite dÈtape Le Relais du Haget – Tucom –
Capelle Cravenceres – Villeneuve – Nogaro – Claverie – Gite Domaine de Castagnere – Gite Maison
Labarbe - Lanne-Soubiran – Gite Dubarry – Lacassagne – Barcelonne-du-Gers - Aire-sur-lÀdour - 41
km -
Ziua 07 – 03 august 2007 (Vineri) – Aire-sur-lÀdour – Arzacq -

Aire-sur-lÀdour – Lac Brousseau – Trousin – Latrille – Douelle – Charitole – Miramont-Sensacq –
Gite Ferme de Marsan – Pimbo – Arzacq-Arraziguet - 31 km -
Ziua 08 – 04 august 2007 (Sambata) – Arzacq – Arthez-de-Bearn -

Arzacq-Arraziguet – Louvigny – Lou Castet – Mondy – Fichous-Riumayou – Larreule – Uzan – Geus-
dÀrzacq – Laroche – Ferme-Lacassourette - Pomps – Castillon – Caubin - Arthez-de-Bearn - 29 km
-
Ziua 09 – 05 august 2007 (Duminica) – Arthez-de-Bearn – Sauvelade -
Arthez-de-Bearn – Argagnon – Maslacq – Ruine Guironole – Lacoume – Sauvelade - 18 km -
Ziua 10 – 06 august 2007 (Luni) – Sauvelade – Aroue -

Sauvelade – Laborde – Labarthe – Meritein – Navarrenx – Castetnau-Camblong – Lausset – Chateau
de Mongaston – Cherbeys – Lichos – Behoteguya – Aroue - 33 km -
Ziua 11 – 07 august 2007 (Marti) – Aroue – Ostabat -

Aroue – castel Etcharry – Olhaiby – Jaurriberria – Benta – Uhart Mixe – Hiriburia – Chapelle
d`Harambeltz – Ostabat-Asme - 22 km -
Ziua 12 – 08 august 2007 (Miercuri) – Ostabat – Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port -

Ostabat-Asme – Larramendia - Larceveau- Chahara – Bastida Choko – Croix de Galzetaburu –
Gamarthe – Montgelos – Lacarre – Bussunarits – Saint-Jean-le-Vieux (Donazaharre) – La Madeleine -
Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port – Rau La Nive - 20 km -
Ziua 13 – 09 august 2007 (Joi) – Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port – Roncesvalles -

St Jean Pied de Port (163 m) – Erreculus – Honto (480 m) – Table dòrientation –Apa - Auberge
Orrison (770 m) – Statue de la Virege de Biakorri – Croix – Pasul Leizar Atheka - Col de Bentarte
(1344 m) – Fontaine de Bentare – Ruines dÈizazahar - Astobiscar (1410 m) – Col de Lepoeder (1430
m) - Col dÌbaneta (1040 m) – Chapelle dÌbaneta - Roncesvalles (962 m) - 28 km -
Ziua 14 – 10 august 2007 (Vineri) – Roncesvalles – Larrasoana -

Roncesvalles (962 m) - Burguete-Aurity (898 m) – Espinal - Alto de Mezkiriz (922 m) – Bizkarreta-
Viscaret (780 m) – Linzoain-Erro - Alto de Erro (801 m) Puerto de Erro – Zubiri-Esteribar (528 m) –
Ilarratz – Esquirotz - Larrasoana (499 m) - 27 km -
Ziua 15 – 11 august 2007 (Sambata) – Larrasoana - Cizur Menor -

Larrasoana (499 m) – Akerreta – Cascada – Zuriain – Arleta – Irotz (490 m) - Huarte – Trinidad de
Arre-Villaba (430 m) – Burlada - Pamplona (496 m) – Puente Sobre El Sadar - Cizur Menor (480 m) -
21 km -
Ziua 16 – 12 august 2007 (Duminica) – Cizur Menor – Cirauqui -

Cizur Menor (480 m) – Zariquiequi - Alto del Perdon (735 m) – Uterga (495 m) – Muruzabal - Obanos
(414 m) - Puente la Reina (346 m) - – Maneru (456 m) - Cirauqui (498 m) - 28 km -
Ziua 17 – 13 august 2007 (Luni) – Cirauqui - Los Arcos -

Cirauqui (498 m) – Lorca (480 m) – Villatuerta – Estella (426 m) – Ayegui – Azqueta - Villamayor de
Monjardin (675 m) - Los Arcos (447 m) - 37 km -
Ziua 18 – 14 august 2007 (Marti) – Los Arcos - Logrono -

Los Arcos (447 m) – Sansol – Torres del Rio (479 m) – Ermitata de la Virgen del Poyo - Viana (469 m)
- Logrono (384 m) - 29 km –
Ziua 19 – 15 august 2007 (Miercuri) – Logrono - Najera -

Logrono (384 m) - Parcul Grajera (390 m) – Navarrete (560 m) – Ventosa (651 m) – Najera (489 m) -
31 km –
Ziua 20 – 16 august 2007 (Joi) – Najera – Redecilla del Camino

Najera (489 m) – Azofra (555 m) - Ciruena (754 m) – Santo Domingo de la Calzada (638 m) - Granon
(727 m) – Redecilla del Camino (741 m) – 31 km -
Ziua 21 – 17 august 2007 (Vineri) – Redecilla del Camino - San Juan de Ortega -
Redecilla del Camino (741 m) – Castildelgado – Viloria de Rioja - Villamayor del Rio (792 m) -
Belorado (772 m) – Tosantos – Villambista – Espinosa del Camino - Villafranca Montes de Oca (1162
m) – San Juan de Ortega (1040 m) - 37 km -
Ziua 22 – 18 august 2007 (Sambata) – San Juan de Ortega - Burgos -

San Juan de Ortega (1040 m) – Ages - Atapuerca (966 m) – Olmos de Atapuerca - Matagrande (1078
m) – Cardenuela (935 m) – Orbaneja - Castanares (884 m) - Burgos (860 m) - 31 km -
Ziua 23 – 19 august 2007 (Duminica) – Burgos – Castrojeritz -

Burgos (860 m) – Villalbilla - Tardajos (828 m) – Rabe de las Calzadas - Hornillos del Camino (822 m)
– San Bol (880 m) - Hontanas (870 m) – Monasterio de San Anton (810 m) – Castrojeritz (808 m) –
41 km -
Ziua 24 – 20 august 2007 (Luni) – Castrojeritz – Fromista -

Castrojeritz (808 m) – Puente Fitero - Itero de la Vega (769 m) - Boadilla del Camino (780 m) -
Fromista (787 m) - 21 km -
Ziua 25 – 21 august 2007 (Marti) – Fromista - Carrion de los Condes -

Fromista (787 m) –Poblacion de Campos – Revenga de Campos – Villarmentero de Campos -
Villalcazar de Sirga (809 m) - Carrion de los Condes (838 m) - 21 km -
Ziua 26 – 22 august 2007 (Miercuri) – Carrion de los Condes – Sahagun -

Carrion de los Condes (838 m) – Abadia Benevievre - (Via Aquitana) – Calzadilla de la Cueza (870 m)
– Legidos (882 m) - Terradillos de los Templarios (885 m) – Moratinos - San Nicolas del Real Camino
(840 m) - Sahagun (816 m) - 41 km -
Ziua 27 – 23 august 2007 (Joi) – Sahagun – Reliegos -

Sahagun (816 m) – Calzada del Coto (825 m) - Bercianos del Real Camino (855 m) – Calzadilla de los
Hermanilos - El Burego Ranero - Reliegos (836 m) - 31 km -
Ziua 28 – 24 august 2007 (Vineri) – Reliegos – Leon -

Reliegos (836 m) - Mansilla de las Mulas (799 m) - Villarmoros de Mansila (800 m) - Puente Villarente
– Arcahueja – Puente Castro - Leon (838 m) - 26 km -
Ziua 29 – 25 august 2007 (Sambata) – Leon - Hospital de Orbigo -

Leon (838 m) – Trobajo de Camino - Virgen del Camino (906 m) – Valverde de Virgen – San Miquel
del Camino – Villadangos del Paramo - San Martin del Camino (879 m) - Villavante (840 m) - (Puente
de Orbigo) Hospital de Orbigo - 34 km -
Ziua 30 – 26 august 2007 (Duminica) – Hospital de Orbigo - El Ganso -

(Puente de Orbigo) Hospital de Orbigo – Villares de Orbigo - Sanitibanez de Valdeiglesias (816 m) –
San Justo de la Vega (853 m) - Astorga (899 m) – Murias de rechivaldo – Santa Catalina de Somoza -
El Ganso (1013 m) - 33 km –
Ziua 31 – 27 august 2007 (Luni) – El Ganso – Molinaseca -

El Ganso (1013 m) – Rabanal del Camino (1162 m) - Foncebadon (1439 m) - Cruz de Ferro (1531 m)
- Manjarin (1458 m) – El Acebo (1145 m) – Riego de Ambros - Molinaseca (603 m) - 32 km -
Ziua 32 – 28 august 2007 (Marti) – Molinaseca – Pereje -

Molinaseca (603 m) – Campo - Ponferrada (541 m) – Columbrianos – Fuentes Nuevas –
Camponaraya - Cacabelos (528 m) - Villafranca del Bierzo (524 m) - Pereje (542 m) - 38 km -
Ziua 33 – 29 august 2007 (Miercuri) – Pereje – Triacastela -

Pereje (542 m) – Trabadelo – Portela – Ambasmestas – Vega de Valcarce - Ruitelan – Herreiras - La
Faba (916 m) laguna de Castilla- O Cebreiro (1330 m) – Linares - Hospital da Condesa (1245 m) –
Alto de Poio – Fonfria - O Biduedo (1190 m) – Vidue Jo - Pasantes (803 m) - Triacastela (671 m)- 42
km -
Ziua 34 – 30 august 2007 (Joi) – Triacastela – Ferreiros -

Triacastela (671 m) - Samos (550 m) - Sarria (490 m) - Barbadelor (525 m) – Rente - Brea - Ferreiros
(660 m) - 32 km -
Ziua 35 – 31 august 2007 (Vineri) – Ferreiros - Palas de Rei -

Ferreiros (660 m) – As Rozas - Vilacha (440 m) - Portomarin (430 m) - Gonzar (540 m) – Hospital da
Cruz (680 m) - Ventas de Naron (700 m) – Ligonde – Airexe - Palas de Rei (574 m)- 35 km -
Ziua 36 – 01 septembrie 2007 (Sambata) – Palas de Rei – Arzua -
Palas de Rei (574 m) - San Xiao (480 m) - Casanova – Leboreiro (440 m) – Furelos - Melide (457
m) – Peroxa –Santiago de Boente – Castaneda – Ribadiso - Arzua (338 m) - 29 km -
Ziua 37 – 02 septembrie 2007 (Duminica) – Arzua - Monte de Gozo -

Arzua (338 m) – A Peroxa - Calle (370 m) – Boavista – Salceda – O Xen – Brea - Santa Irene (380
m) – Rua – Pedrouzo (Arco de Pino) – San Anton - Labacolla (300 m) – San Marcos - Monte de
Gozo (350 m) - 33 km -
Ziua 38 – 03 septembrie 2007 (Luni) – Monte de Gozo - Santiago de Compostela -

Monte de Gozo (350 m) - Santiago de Compostela (260 m) - 5 km -
Ziua 39 – 04 septembrie 2007 (Marti) – Santiago de Compostela – Negreira -

Santiago de Compostela (260 m) – Sarela de Abaixo – Moas de Abaixo - Carballal (161 m) –
Quintas – Ventosa – Lombao – Augapesada – Castineiro de Lobo - Alto do Mar de Ovellas (272
m) – Susavila de Carballo – Trasmonte – Reino – Burgueiros - Ponte Maceira (Rio Tombre) (170
m) – Barca – Chancela de Abaixo - Negreira (185 m) - 23 km -
Ziua 40 – 05 septembrie 2007 (Miercuri) – Negreira – Olveiroa -

Negreira (185 m) – Zas – Camino Real - Rapote – Piaxe - Portocamino – A Pena (345 m) -
Vilaserio (350 m) – Santa Marina (340 m) – Cornado – Maronas – Bon Xesus – Gueina - Vilar do
Castro (430 m) – Lago – Portelinas - Abeleiroas – Corzon – Ponteolveira (Rio Xalles) - Olveiroa
(270 m) - 33 km -
Ziua 41 – 06 septembrie 2007 (Joi) – Olveiroa – Corcubion -

Olveiroa (270 m) – Logoso - Hospital (340 m) – Cruceiro das neves – Ermita Ntra Sra das Veves
- Ermita San Pedro Martir – Alto de Crucerio - Caminos Chans (30 m) - Cee (0 m) - Corcubion (0
m) - 22 km -
Ziua 42 – 07 septembrie 2007 (Vineri) – Corcubion – Finisterre -

Corcubion (0 m) – Villar – San Rogue - Amarela – Plaja Estorde – Sardineiro de Abaixo –
Calcoba – Plaja Escaselas (0 m) – Plaja San Martin (0 m) – Playa Langosteira - Finisterre (0 m) –
Cabo Finisterra – Monte del Facho (247 m) - 12 km -
Ziua 43 – 08 septembrie 2007 (Sambata) – Finisterre – Muxia -

Finisterre – San Martino de Duio - Escaselas – Hermedesuxo – Buxan – Castrexe - Dente –
Praio do Postro (plaja) – Padris – Plaja si Rio Lires – Lires – Vaosilveiro - Frixe – Guisamonde -
Morquintian – Xurantes - Plaja de Lourido – Muxia – Punta de la Barca - 32 km -
Ziua 44 – 09 septembrie 2007 (Duminica) – Muxia – Finisterre -

Muxia - Plaja Lourido – Xurantes - Morquintian – Guisamonde - Frixe – Vaosilveiro - Lires -
Plaja si Rio Lires - Padris - Praio do Postro (plaja) – Dente – Castrexe - Buxan - Hermedesuxo
– Escaselas - San Martino de Duio – Finisterre - 32 km -
45 – 10 septembrie 2007 (Luni) – Autobuz Finisterre - Santiago de Compostela si Tren Santiago

– Madrid
46 – 11 septembrie 2007 (Marti) – Avion Madrid – Budapesta si Masina Budapesta - Timisoara –

anul 2008
cei 1 000 de km (in 38 de zile) facuti pe jos prin Spania incepanda de la
Puente la Reina pana la Santiago de Compostela si continuat pana la
Atlantic (Finisterra si Muxia) in perioada 9 iunie – 19 iulie 2008 de catre
Ramona (al treilea pelerinaj consecutiv)
S-a plecat cu avionul pe ruta Cluj - Barcelona, la fel si intoarcerea. De la Barcelona a mers cu
autobuzul pana la Zaragoza, apoi la Jaca, locul de incepere al pelerinajului din acest an. Din Jaca
se merge 140 de km pe Camino Aragonez pana la Puente la Reina, unde se intra pe Camino
Francez (traseul clasic si deja cunoascut la a treia atingere si traire). Din Puente la Reina sunt
cam 700 de km pana la Santiago de Compostela si inca 90 de km pina la Finisterre, pe malul
Atlanticului. Vom reveni cu date.
Documentatie Despre Camino

Pelerinajul spre Santiago de Compostela, Spania
Pentru cei care doresc sa mearga in pelerinaj la Santiago de Compostela (sau doar sa afle mai multe)
este bine sa faca rost un ghid bun, cu explicatii si harti clare, cat mai actualizat ca an al aparitiei. Ele
se pot gasi in diverse limbi, mai putin in limba romana (se pot chiar achizitiona de pe internet, dar e
bine sa avem posibilitatea de a vedea cum este structurat si ce contine). Exista diverse date despre
pelerinajul la Santiago de Compostela pe foarte multe pagini web care pot crea o imagine de
ansamblu prin studierea lor. Pentru ca la sustinerea conferitelor si videoproiectile noastre, referitoare
la Camino (dupa primul) am observat ca oamenii doresc mai multe informatii am creat:
--- un Grup de Dialog despre Camino pentru cuprinderea in discutii si a celor din alte localitati cu
ajutorul internetului denumit Bon Camino (dupa fraza cea mai des rostita si auzita in pelerinaj),
despre grupul de discutii si descrierea lui, va oferim mai multe date in finalul paginii,
--- am publicat cartea Pelerini la Santiago de Compostela - Jurnalul celor 900 de km perpedes
din Pirinei pana la Atlantic pe Camino (disponibila in Libraria Geea Life – Colectia Metafizica),
--- am pus pe internet mai multe Galerii cu Poze, gen reportaj, in ordine, pe zile conform traseului
parcurs in perioadele de pelerinaj (se pot vedea linkurile spre aceste galerii in sectiunea Galerie Foto),
--- am organizat o Colectie de Linkuri despre Camino, spre diverse pagini web mai importante si
oficiale cu poze, descrieri necesitati, echipament, harti, povesti, date sau actualizari perioadice (se
poate consulta aceasta lista cu pagini web in sectiunea Linkuri –Camino de Santiago),
--- am sintetizat diverse date intr-un CD despre Camino, a carui cuprins este mai jos pe pagina (Cd-ul
Camino este disponibil in sectiunea Librarie – Colectia CD).
--- pe pagina Asociatiei Geea Life am sintetizat informatiile despre El Camino si pelerinajul la
Santiago de Compostela in paginile urmatoare: camino.htm, istoric_camino.htm
descriere_camino.htm, prezentare_carte.htm, pelerinaj_camino_2006.htm,
pelerinaj_camino_2007.htm, pelerinaj_camino_2008.htm, documentatie_camino.htm,
statistici_camino.htm.
Cuprins capitole CD CAMINO:

001. - Galerie foto-2006 pelerinaj El Camino de Santiago:
21 august - 25 septembrie /// 900 de km in 35 de zile
(refugii, traseu, catedrale, pelerini, peisaje …)
002. - Galerie foto-2007 pelerinaj El Camino de Santiago:
28 iulie -- 9 septembrie /// 1250 de km in 43 de zile
(refugii, traseu, catedrale, pelerini, peisaje …)
003. - Istoricul pelerinajului si descrierea unor orase
(romana)
004. - Emisiuni radio despre pelerinajul pe Camino
(in romana, sustinute de Ramona)
005. - Harti trasee, rute, etape pelerinaj in Spania si Europa
006. - Diverse carti, brosuri, texte, explicatii despre Camino
(engleza, franceza, spaniola)
007. - Ghid explicativ pelerinaj la Santiago de Compostela
008. - Harti orase spre Santiago de Compostela
(spaniola)
009. - Ghid refugii – “albergues” si posibilitati de campare
010. - Tabele zile, localitati, etape 2006-2007, statistici pelerinaj
011. – Filmulet Video despre Camino
012. - Colectie de linkuri cu informatii despre Camino
013. - Dictionare diverse - spaniola - format audio si text
014. - Muzica traditionala de pe Camino
Pe pagina Grupului Bon Camino am pus o parte din poze, informatii, descrieri si linkuri in arhiva
grupului, (Files si Photos in limita spatiului disponibil), dar el are rolul dialogului si schimbului de
informatii, sau trimiterea unor mesaje de pe Camino (pentru cei care in anumite momente se aflau
acolo), se pot vedea pregatirile si discutiile intre cei care au fost pe camino in ultimii 3 ani. Un numar
destul de mare din cei inscrisi in grup au facut Camino si isi ofera experienta si sfaturile altora care
doresc sa plece in traseul de pelerinaj.
Group name: bon_camino

Group home page: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bon_camino
Post message: bon_camino@yahoogroups.com
Subscribe: bon_camino-subscribe@yahoogroups.com (adresa de email pentru inscriere)
Unsubscribe: bon_camino-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
List owner: bon_camino-owner@yahoogroups.com
Descriere (am lasat-o deocamdata asa cum a aparut initial in 2006, dar poate o schimbam): Grupul
de discutii in limba romana – Bon_Camino- este dedicat celor care au fost, care doresc sa mearga si
celor care sunt pe traseul de pelerinaj spre Santiago de Compostela din Spania, deoarece, in fiecare
refugiu exista acces la internet si se poate contacta grupul. Bon Camino (Drum Bun), este fraza rostita
si auzita cel mai des in Spania, din partea localnicilor si a celorlalti pelerini, referindu-se la perioada de
pelerinaj, dar mai ales la continuitatea fiecaruia din viata de zi de zi.
In acest grup se pot schimba impresii, experiente, trairi, notite din jurnalul zilnic, sfaturi si intrebari,
alaturi de o galerie foto in care putem prezenta imagini de la fata locului. Camino Francez, drumul
Sfintului Iacob sau calea omului obisnuit, pe care l-am facut noi (Marcel si Ramona din Timisoara) a
inceput din St. Jean Pied de Port din Franta, peste Pirinei, spre Santiago de Compostela, fiind lung de
800 de km. Noi am facut in continuare si cei 100 de km ai traseul pina la Finisterre pe tarmul
Atlanticului (Cabo Finisterre – Capatul Pamantului). Un total de 900 de km, parcursi in 36 de zile, intre
21 iulie si 25 septembrie 2006. Bineinteles ca la aceasta perioada s-a mai adaugat transportul pina in
Franta si din Spania spre Romania, cu diverse autobuze sau trenuri.
Pasaportul de pelerin, primit la inceperea pelerinajului este valabil pentru cei care fac traseul pe jos,
cu bicicleta sau cu calul si isi vizeaza acest pasaport la refugiile in care innopteaza. Practic, doar cu
pasaportul de pelerin putem sa ne cazam la refugiile special amenajate din majoritatea localitatilor pe
care le intilnim pe un drum foarte bine marcat cu Sageata Galbena sau Scoica.
Numai bine si o viata mai minunata – BON_CAMINO
Harti: http://www.elcaminosantiago.com/Camino-Santiago-Map-Camino-Frances-PDF.htm
October, February and March: these months are much wetter than the rest of the year so
be prepared with rain gear. It can be fairly cold in the mornings, however if you are lucky
often the sun will burn off the frost and you will have mild days. That said the last 100km into
Santiago can be wet at any time of the year, I have been caught in rain that lasted two days
while walking in September.
April, May, June and September: these are likely considered the best months to walk any
of the Caminos to Santiago. During these months the weather is generally warm or hot,
everything is open, and the routes are not as busy as the main summer months.
July and August: these are the most popular months on the Camino. I would try and avoid
starting on July 25th from Roncesvalles – the feast day of St James, as it can be a very busy
day. The same is true if you plan to arrive in Santiago during the week before and after the
25th July. If you are arriving in Santiago at this time be prepared for the hotels to be harder to
book and more expensive, additionally the albergues will be very busy.
There is a Spanish public holiday on the 15th Aug, (the Assumption of Mary), again I would
avoid starting from St Jean or Roncesvalles on this date. I once stayed in Roncesvalles
overnight at this time and it was very crowded, the hostel needed overflow tents to
accommodate everyone. But the worst, for me, was walking the next day. I find in general
the Spanish extremely helpful along all the Caminos, however I am not used to the noise
when there are many Spanish walking nearby talking on their phones, sorry Spain. This is a
local problem in every country due to the availability and cost of mobile data, while at the top
of Ben Nevis in Scotland I over heard many Brits calling friends with the start of the call
being – guess where I am…
Below are the weather charts for Bilbao, Leon, and Santiago. Notice how wet Santiago can
be, and it is generally a bit colder in Leon. I will be updating the packing list page shortly to
include additional walking gear for the winter – however not much more is required.
First Part: St.Jean Pied de Port – Grañon

(215km) Camino Santiago
I have divided the Camino Frances (French Way of El Camino de Santiago) in three parts.
Each part is very different to the others: the topography, weather, landscape, and the local
people and culture changes but there is a more important change: the change that takes place
within the pilgrim. This change is physical and psychological.
This first part of El Camino de Santiago with 215km can be done, depending on your pace, in
8, 9 or 10 days. It’s the initiation of the pilgrim in El Camino de Santiago, landscapes are
beautiful and very appealing, fertile lands, green mountains and hills, vineyards and tidy small
villages. Pilgrims start a bit uneasy and frightened of such a long way in front of them but,
after overcoming the pains and stiffness of the first days, they soon gain confidence in
themselves and El Camino de Santiago. This is a really sweet part of The Way of St. James.
Grañon is a tiny charming village and I haven’t chosen it arbitrarily as the ending point for
this part. Grañón is the last village of La Rioja region, the next one will be in Castille, in the
meseta (high plains), and there everything changes.
This is an example of the possible stages to follow in this part. I’ve put photos and some
information for the day on each of them:
 First Part: St.Jean Pied de Port – Grañon (215km)

1. St. Jean Pied de Port – Roncesvalles (25km)
2. Roncesvalles – Larrasoana (27km)
3. Larrasoana – Pamplona (15km)
4. Pamplona – Puente de la Reina (24km)
5. Puente de la Reina – Estella (22km)
6. Estella – Los Arcos (22km)
7. Los Arcos – Viana (19 km)
8. Viana – Logroño – Navarrete (23 km)
9. Navarrete – Azofra (23 km)
10. Azofra – Santo Domingo de la Calzada – Grañon (22 km)
 Middle Part: Grañon – Leon (245km)

11. Grañon – Belorado – Tosantos (21 km)
12. Tosantos – San Juan de Ortega (19km)
13. San Juan de Ortega – Burgos (28km)
14. Burgos – Hornillos del Camino (19km)
15. Hornillos del Camino – Castrojeriz (20km)
16. Castrojeriz – Fromista (25km)
17. Fromista – Carrion de los Condes (19km)
18. Carrion de los Condes – Ledigos (24km)
19. Ledigos – Bercianos del Real Camino (26km)
20. Bercianos del Real Camino – Reliegos (20km)
21. Reliegos – Leon (24km)
 Final Part: Leon – Santiago de Compostela (300km)

22. Leon – Hospital de Orbigo (24km)
23. Hospital de Orbigo – Astorga (19km)
24. Astorga – Molinaseca (47km)
25. Molinaseca – Villafranca del Bierzo (29km)
26. Villafranca del Bierzo – Herrerias (21km)
27. Herrerias – O Cebreiro – Triacastela (31km)
28. Triacastela – Sarria – Ferreiros (31km)
29. Ferreiros – Portomarin – Ligonde (25km)
30. Ligonde – Palas de Rei – Ribadiso (35km)
31. Ribadiso – Santiago de Compostela (42km)
1. St. Jean Pied de Port – Roncesvalles

(25km)
For most the the pilgrims this is their first day in El Camino de Santiago. It’s really a good
starting point for el Camino de Santiago with simply breathtaking landscapes. It’s one of the
most exciting days of El Camino de Santiago.
You start the day, and also your Camino de Santiago, in France and you’ll finish it in Spain
and for that you have to cross a mountain range: the Pyrenees. It’s the western part of the
Pyrenees which makes it easier because the mountains are not as high as in the eastern part.
But still it’ll be though. Don’t worry because the first day’s excitement and the admiration for
the nature are much stronger than the tiredness. The path is well marked and in really good
state. My only tip is: try to avoid crossing the Pyrenees in a foggy day.
2. Roncesvalles – Larrasoana (27km)

This is a beautiful day in El Camino de Santiago descending the Pyrenees. After Roncesvalles
we go through beautiful and tidy small villages. The landscape is hilly and green, and the
fields are very fertile. It’s an easy day since most of the way is going down although you may
be very tired after yesterday’s climb to the Pyrenees.
3. Larrasoana – Pamplona (15km)

The third day in El Camino de Santiago is an easy short day. That’s perfect because you’ll
arrive earlier to Pamplona and will have the change to visit to one of the most beautiful cities
in El Camino de Santiago. Pamplona is famous in all the world for its bull running in the
festival of San Fermin.
4. Pamplona – Puente de la Reina (24km) |

Camino Santiago
After Pamplona El Camino de Santiago continues along beautiful fields and small villages.
Before getting to the historical town of Puente de la Reina, el Camino de Santiago goes throw
the summing of a small but really steep mountain called in Spanish “Alto del Perdon” which
would mean in English something like Peak of Forgiveness. Pilgrims would understand why
when they are climbing its steep slope and then once inthe summit observe the breathtaking
landscape around. In the summit of Alto del Perdon there is also a beautiful monument in
homage to the pilgrims of El Camino de Santiago.
After Alto del Perdón and before Puente de la Reina pilgrims get into the merging point with
El Camino Aragones (Aragonese Way) which comes from France crossing the central
Pyrenees and goes through the beautiful Spanish region of Aragon. Very close to this merging
point there is the 12th century Romanesque church of Santa Maria de Eunate. It’s a Knights
Templar church, it’s a octagonal church surrounded by a polygonal construction of arches, in
fact Eunate means “One hundred doors” in Basque language. Eunate’s church is full of
Knights Templar and Masonic symbolism.
Finally you reach medieval Puente de la Reina with its narrow cobbled
streets, Romanesque and Gothic churches, medieval nobility’s mansions, and its best
landmark: the Romanesque bridge over the river Arga. Puente de la Reina’s bridge was built
in the 11th century by order of the queen of the kingdom of Nájera (actually the name of the
city means “The Queen’s bridge” in Spanish). Its length is 110 m and it has 6 arches and 5
pillars, the causeway is 4 m wide. It’s one of the most beautiful bridges I’ve ever seen and
definitely one of the top monuments along El Camino de Santiago.
5. Puente de la Reina – Estella (22km) |

Camino Santiago
After leaving Puente de la Reina crossing its magnificent bridge, el Camino de Santiago
continues through beautiful hilly vineyards and tipical old villages with cobbled streets. This
is a nice and easy stage of el Camino de Santiago perfect to enjoy the landscapes of Navarra.
Most of pilgrims in el Camino de Santiago will stop to sleep in Estella (or Lizarra in Basque
language). Estella is another very historical town founded in the 11st century by the king of
Navarra. Estella has plenty of Romanesque architecture with amazing churches and bridges.
6. Estella – Los Arcos (22km) | Camino

Santiago
This is the day in El Camino de Santiago that probably many pilgrims were waiting for. Just a
few kilometers after Estella and near the Romanesque Monastery of Santa Maria la Real de
Irache which also deserves a visit there is a wine fountain. Yes, I mean a wine fountain, and it
is free. The wine fountain belongs to Bodegas Irache where they produce wine from the
surrounding vineyards, however the wine is not always running free in the fountain but only
during the “bodega” working hours so if you pass by very early in the morning or in Sunday
you will be disappointed.
Apart from the joy of finding a wine fountain, El Camino de Santiago has plenty of gifts for
the pilgrims along this stretch since the fields and vineyards in this area are really charming
especially in the autumn with the grapes ripen and the red colors of the vines’ leaves.
The village of Los Arcos has a disproportional imposing church for the size of the village, it
nearly seems a cathedral and it is one of the best in El Camino de Santiago. Los Arcos was a
village of great importance in the Middle Ages since it was in the border line between the
kingdoms of Navarre and Castile and was constantly disputed by both kings. In fact, Los
Arcos means “the arches or the doors” and these medieval arches are still standing in the
western part of the village being regarded as the doors to Castile.
7. Los Arcos – Viana (19 km) | Camino

Santiago
It’s been already one week in el Camino de Santiago and yet most pilgrims would believe that
they’ve been in el Camino de Santiago for years. Time passes in a funny way in el Camino de
Santiago. Many pilgrims, including myself, could have expected to be thinking or reflecting
about their daily problems and instead, after week in El Camino, one realizes that, quite the
opposite, those problems or things to think about have been forgotten when becoming a
pilgrim.
Anyway, this 7th stage of El Camino de Santiago has still more vineyards to walk through and
beautiful small villages like the twins: Sansol and Torres del Rio, in my opinion two of the
most picturesque villages in the whole Camino de Santiago. Enjoy the vineyards because
there are not much of them left before entering the dry Castile.
Viana is a nice monumental town just 10 km outside Logroño, the capital of La Rioja, but
Viana itself still belongs to Navarra region. Viana has a great week-long festival at the end of
July, bull-running included, and a lot of fiesta, music and wine, so check it out it you happen
to arrive in Viana at this time of the year, and don’t be afraid of walking with a hangover the
following day.
8. Viana – Logroño – Navarrete (23 km) |

Camino Santiago
Today El Camino de Santiago takes the pilgrims through Logroño, the capital of the region of
La Rioja. In fact, many guides advise Logroño as the end of stage and many pilgrims do so.
Actually, it is not a bad option since Logroño is a small nice city with much medieval
architecture and famous areas for wine and tapas. It’s most renowned street is Calle Laurel
which is full of typical bars of Rioja wine and tapas.
The path of El Camino de Santiago is not so nice along the strech from Viana to Logroño,
being most of the time a paved road but it’s really good after Logroño, passing by a nature
park and a lake and the ruins of a medieval pilgrims’ hospital: “San Juan de Arce”.
Finally Navarrete is another tipical Camino de Santiago medium-size nice village quiet,
monumental and tidy, still surrounded by vineyards. If you have started the day in Logroño
probably you’ll walk further to Najera. As I said these are only the stages that I chose to walk
in El Camino de Santiago but you’re free to plan you own ends of stage since there are
accommodation options in nearly every small village in El Camino de Santiago.
A personal anecdote for this day: when arriving in Navarrete I found that the public pilgrims’
hostel was full. So together with other Italian pilgrims we decided to go to sleep in our
sleeping bags to the public soccer pitch. We had a surprise for the night: at about 2am the
automatic irrigation system started to water the grass and by the time we managed to wake up,
realize what was going on and move we had already enjoyed a free shower. Funny, isn’t it?
9. Navarrete – Azofra (23 km) | Camino de

Santiago
El Camino de Santiago starts now to become drier and drier. Rioja and the vineyards are
staying behind and pilgrims are heading to Castile, the meseta, and the infinite cereal plains.
That doesn’t have to be bad. In spring, the landscape is green all around you and in early
summer the sunflower fields are one of the most beautiful sights of El Camino de Santiago.
However, trees and shade are scarce and in summer days can be roasting so getting up early is
very recommended at that time of the year.
Nájera is in the second half of the stage, actually the first time I walked this part of el Camino
de Santiago I continued until Azofra, but the second time I stayed in Nájera. I’ve always
found very difficult and long the stretch from Ventosa to Najera and a pain to reach Najera’s
albergue and historical center which is at the west end of the city having firstly to cross all the
new city to get there.
But there is a prize for that effort because Najera is a great monumental city. I definitely
recommend a visit to its monastery Santa Maria la Real which was started to build in the 11th
century. Najera and its shire was always disputed between the crowns of Castile and Navarre,
changing from one to the other side of the border several times. Najera was the seat of the
crown of the kingdom of Najera-Navarra between 923 a.D. and 1076 a.D in the most
influential period of its history.
The albergue or pilgrims hostel in Najera is really big but well organized under the
management of the Volunteers Hospitaleros Association. It is in a very convenient place by
the cold water river called Najerilla and near the public swimming pool. Either refreshing
your feet in the river or having a bath at the swimming pool make a perfect siesta break in the
summer.
Eight or ten kilometers after Najera there is a small town Azofra, without much to see or do
but it has the only public pilgrims hostel with private double rooms that I know in el Camino
de Santiago. This albergue also has a lovely garden with a fountain in the middle and, at the
time I stayed in, they were providing really delicious homemade dinners, wine included, at
very cheap prices.
10. Azofra – Grañon (22 km) | Camino de

Santiago
This stage of El Camino de Santiago is similar to the previous one: more cereal and sunflower
fields, and, still some vineyards. The only difference is that on your left you will see high
mountains, normally snow capped even in summer. Also the black and white storks increase
their presence from now on. The path is now completely flat and will continue like this for
several hundreds of kilometers. The meseta has already started.
In theory, Castile starts right after Grañon which is the last Rioja village, and that’s one of the
reasons why I have chosen it as the end of my “imaginary” first part. But although during this
stage pilgrims are still walking along La Rioja, the landscape and climate is already the
Castilian one.
Santo Domingo de La Calzada is again a really beautiful monumental historical town.

Calzada is another way to say Camino in Spanish and this town was one of the most important
along the pilgrimage in the Middle Ages as well as one of its biggest sponsors. It has a great
cathedral which was started in the 12th century. Inside the cathedral there is a living cock, as a
pet. This is in honor of an old legend, a miracle, that, instead of telling it here, I will let you
find it out by yourselves when you are in Santo Domingo de la Calzada. In overall it is a
really pleasant town full of medieval palaces and monuments and cobbled streets and a good
point as end of stage. The public albergue in Santo Domingo is one of the most luxurious and
modern in El Camino de Santiago and they only ask a donation for sleeping in it.
Another important piece of information is that from Santo Domingo you can take direct buses
to Madrid in case you are finishing your Camino de Santiago there or you can arrive directly
to Santo Domingo de la Calzada from Madrid if you are starting your Camino de Santiago
there.
I’ve chosen Grañon as the end of stage because I think it is one of the most especial places
along all the Camino de Santiago. There is a special energy in Grañon. Not only have I slept
there as a pilgrim but also I came back years later as a volunteer to run Grañon’s albergue for
two weeks.
Grañon’s albergue is on the attic and tower of a Romanesque church. Can you imagine a
better place for a pilgrims hostel? The village is medieval, tiny and beautiful and its people
kind and helpful. Grañon is the place where the association of volunteers for el Camino
started and the courses for becoming a volunteer hospitalero are still held there. Following the
example of Grañon, many other villages rehabilitated old buildings thanks to voluntary help
for them to serve as pilgrim hostels.
This is the end of my “personal” first part. Tomorrow flat and dry Castile starts….
11. Grañon – Belorado – Tosantos (21 km) |

Camino de Santiago
Here we are, in Castile, Castilla in Spanish. Redecilla del Camino is the first village that the
pilgrims walk through in Burgos province, Castile region. As I said, now the gentle landscape
with vineyards and soft hills has finished. This part of el Camino de Santiago has to
be necessarily more mystic more focused to the interior of oneself. Ahead of you there are
around 250 km of plains and straight paths and skylines, above a high blue cloudless sky.
However, it won’t be all monotony since there is still a bit of mountains just before Burgos. It
will be a paradise for art lovers since they will find the very best of the Romanesque art in the
small villages and also the best Gothic in the city of Burgos and its cathedral, declared Word
Heritage by UNESCO.
Belorado is a medium size town of El Camino de Santiago with all kind of services and good
public transport conections with Burgos, Logroño and Madrid. It has a great plaza full of trees
and shade, ideal for a siesta, and surrounded by bars serving good local wine. There are
several albergues in Belorado, both public and private, and also plenty of hotels. One of the
albergues has a swimming pool. I spent the night as a pilgrim in Belorado once and I can say
it was a good choice.
Some kilometers later there is tiny Tosantos, a charming little village with an albergue in an
old house run by the volunteers. They also organize common dinners only asking a donation
for it and a bit of help. Once I couldn’t get a place because the albergue was full so I decided
to go to sleep with another two friends up in a big rock on the side of the village where there
is a little chapel. We just slept on the floor, on our sleeping bags but it was well sheltered
thanks to a little cave on the rock. We had an amazing night enjoying the views of the village
below us and the full moon sky.
12. Tosantos – San Juan Ortega (19km) |

Camino de Santiago
This stage of El Camino de Santiago continues along cereal fields in its first half, right until
the village of Villafranca de los Montes de Oca. After that, The Way crosses the mountains of
Oca during the second half of the day.
After leaving Tosantos in the morning pilgrims pass by some picturesque churches and old
big houses in the middle of nowhere as if they were still some centuries behind. The grain
fields will lead you to Villafranca de los Montes de Oca where there is actually a public
albergue and bars and shops. From Villafranca de los Montes de Oca it is easy to take a bus to
Burgos, the capital, if needed. Villafranca de los Montes de Oca used to be an important town
in the Middle Ages, being episcopal see until 1075. However, nowadays there are only around
30 inhabitants in winter months. The altitude here is nearly 1000 m over the sea level and that
makes winters really hard and cold.
After Villafranca de los Montes de Oca the plains turn into hills and forests of oaks and pines.
El Camino de Santiago goes along a forestry firewall way and despite of the forests it’s quite
difficult to get any shade due to the wideness of the firewall. Besides, there aren’t fountains so
it´s better to carry plenty of water for these 8 km of forest walk.
Finally, el Camino de Santiago gets into the Romanesque church and monastery of San Juan
de Ortega. There are around 20 inhabitants left, the public pilgrim’s hostel and shops are very
basic but the church and monastery are priceless. Each equinox the “miracle of light” takes
place: light penetrates at 5 pm (solar time) through a small window ingeniously placed in the
main façade. A tiny beam of light illuminates the Annunciation of Virgin Mary, sculpted in
stone in the top of a pillar. The rest of the space in the Romanesque church in darkness and
silence makes this “miracle of light” a very special moment.
13. San Juan de Ortega – Burgos (28km) |

Camino de Santiago
Finally Burgos, the great Gothic city of the Camino de Santiago is on the horizon. Today can
be a hard day since it is not easy to enter a big city on foot. Nevertheless, the countryside
outside San Juan de Ortega is still beautiful and rural. I remember a beautiful misty sunrise
when leaving in the morning. The Way of St. James will continue the same still for around 15
km and then little by little will start changing from rural to suburb villages then to industrial
states and finally into one of the most monumental and historic cities in Spain.
This change from rural to urban can be painful since pilgrims will have about 10 km of paved
roads to follow, crossing ugly states, and it can be very disheartening, especially in roasting
summer days when the black road surface is hot enough to fry eggs on it and will painfully
burn one’s feet blisters.
There is the possibility of taking one of the lines of the Burgos city bus that reaches the
suburbs and skip about 5 km of unpleasant suburbs walk. Now, many pilgrims want to walk
every single step in the Camino de Santiago and some others are more flexible in that. Either
way is fine and respectable.
Once in Burgos there is plenty to do, it is such a monumental and historic city that I don’t
know where to start. Burgos is a big town of around 180,000 inhabitants (the second biggest
along Camino de Santiago) and, apart from its charming city centre streets and impressive
architecture, it is also remarkable that it is one of the coldest cities of Spain because it is 900
m (nearly 3000 feet) over sea level, so even if it is summer take a jumper with you at night!
I don’t intent to cover here Burgos’s history or art and neither to be a city tour guide. But I
would just like to mention that it’s well worth a visit to the impressive Gothic cathedral which
is just in front of the new public pilgrims’ hostel. Burgos’ cathedral was built between 1221
and 1260 and it’s one of the finest Gothic temples in the world, its main façade and towers are
just breathtaking. Burgos’ cathedral was declared Word Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1984.
There is a long list of monasteries, palaces, and churches to be visited but probably the
Burgos cuisine will be more interesting to the tired pilgrims. I recommend meet dishes,
especially lamb, and Burgos cheese and above all “morcilla de Burgos”.
If getting into Burgos was painful and ugly, the exit of the city following the Camino de
Santiago is a different business. Leaving Burgos is quicker without having to cross a number
of industrial and housing states and it is also a nice walk by the river. All of a sudden pilgrims
find themselves again out there free in the middle of infinite grain fields and poor tiny villages
in the heart of Castile.
14. Burgos – Hornillos del Camino (19km) |

Camino de Santiago
It is now, after leaving Burgos, that one get immerse into the real austerity of the Camino de
Santiago, it’s the “meseta”, the high plains. The landscape is composed of two single straight
lines, one horizontal which separates brown and golden earth and blue sky and the other one
starts in one’s feet and it’s the path that pilgrims are walking: The Way.
Every now and then there is a solitary and mysterious tree in the middle of a field defying the
drought and sun. The villages are tiny and poor, old houses made of earth and straw and old
people living in them. They are the few stubborn or brave ones (depending on one’s point of
view) who didn’t want to leave their villages to work in the big cities, choosing a poor and
basic life without traffic, noises and rush. Centuries ago this was a prosperous area, the core
of Castile, the old Spain, providing grain and sheep wool for the entire kingdom, but things
have changed…
Many of the villages’ names end “del Camino” (of The Way) or “de la Calzada” (of The
Causeway) and that shows the big importance of Camino de Santiago in them ever since the
Middle Ages to nowadays. Certainly many of them only survive now thanks to the pilgrims of
the Camino de Santiago. The village of Hornillos del Camino is a good example and so was
Rabé de las Calzadas just after Burgos. In my opinion they keep a hidden charm, beauty and
strength which can be perceived if one looks carefully at its old inhabitants’ sun dried faces
and deep dark eyes or even at the poverty of the adobe houses’ walls defying the elements.
Hornillos del Camino has a basic public pilgrim’s hostel and some small shops and
restaurants.
15. Hornillos del Camino – Castrojeriz

(20km) | Camino de Santiago
This proposed stage of Camino de Santiago is quite short, only 20km. That is because along
the endless flat I was becoming lazy and so was the group I was walking with. The days were
really hot (over 40 degrees Celsius, over 110 Fahrenheit) and little by little we were stopping
around midday for longer and longer “siestas”, taking it really easy and then arriving quite
late to our destination. But the thing is that we weren’t getting up really early in the mornings
as most pilgrims do in order to arrive to the day’s destination before the midday’s heat.
Therefore, we entered in a laziness turmoil which slowed us substantially for the remaining of
the “meseta” until Leon.
However, I and the rest of pilgrims whom I were walking with and hanging out in the
evenings really enjoyed this part. The big lunches and siestas often in the shade of some trees
in the middle of the countryside were a fun rest. The evenings in the plazas of the Camino de
Santiago’s villages were most entertaining having long dinners and wines and enjoying the
sunsets and the songs of thousands of swallows. And the late nights, usually still accompanied
by the wine, were just superb in the coolness of the air after the roasting daytime, I remember
vividly the hypnotizing chirping of crickets and the flights of bats.
The reason for me telling here some bits of my personal experience instead of going through a
number of practical details is because I want to leave the reader, the future pilgrim, with the
impression that it’s their choice what they do every day, their timetable, the length to walk,
the final destinations for the day shouldn’t be determined by a guide book, or by what the
other pilgrims are doing. The course of action shouldn’t even be affected by a tight time to
walk El Camino de Santiago, there is no need to rush to get to the end before your vacation
days end, and wherever you get is fine. Remember this is “your” Camino and just enjoy it and
be happy.
Talking now more about practical facts, the landscape today continues the same, flat and dry,
no trees. The villages are small and charming and a bit before Castrojeriz, the Way of St.
James goes through a very interesting point the ruins of the monastery of San Anton which
has 600 years of very interesting history and grandeur between the 12 th century, when it was
founded, until it was closed in the 18 th century. Since 2002, when a foundation recovered it
after more than a century completely closed down, it’s a rustic pilgrims’ hostel in the summer,
also a Jacobean library and a center of Compostela studies. You could stay there for the night
and be sure that it would be an unforgettable experience but remember before making up your
mind that there are no shops or bars around; it is literally in the middle of nowhere.
Castrojeriz is a nice and historic medium size village which, as everything in this area, has
lost the splendor of its medieval past. However it will still have everything you might need.
It’s on the base of a high and steep hill with a castle on the top. If you keep some energy after
the pilgrimage day I strongly recommend you to climb up to the top to admire the
breathtaking sunset. The scenery is just fantastic; you can see endless miles and miles of flat
land and the roofs of Castrojeriz village down on one side of the hill…
16. Castrojeriz – Fromista (25km) | Camino

de Santiago
Leaving Castrojeriz early at dawn one can enjoy a sunrise as spectacular as the sunset in the
castle. Just after the Castrojeriz, the Camino de Santiago continues along a quite steep and
prolonged slope leading to a flat plateau. If you are lucky to have got to the top by the time
the sun is rising you’ll understand why I’m saying this. By the way, Castrojeriz is
approximately the middle point in the Camino de Santiago, The Way of St. James, if you
started in St. Jean Pied de Port. So be aware that you are now starting your Camino’s second
half, you must be an experienced pilgrim by now. Only joking.
In this stage of Camino de Santiago, we’ll continue along the flat cereal fields and small
villages. There is a nice hermit right before the cute village of Itero del Castillo. This is the
hermit of Saint Nicholas (San Nicolas) and its function is to be a pilgrim’s hostel (albergue).
San Nicolas’ albergue is run by La Confraternita di San Jacopo di Compostella from Perugia
(Italy) from May to October. We didn’t stop there for the night since it was still very early in
the day, and we had walked a small distance, but we stopped for breakfast which an Italian
couple prepared kindly for us asking only for a donation. The temple (and the albergue)
doesn’t have electricity so at night it has to be lit by candles and pilgrims sleep inside the
medieval temple. It must be such a basic and romantic experience to stay there for the night.
The final stop for the day could be the big village of Fromista. Fromista was a very important
town in the Middle Ages and it keeps probably the finest pieces of Romanesque architecture
in Western Europe. La iglesia de San Martin (Church of Saint Martin) built in the 11 th century
is one the Romanesque temples more completed of all Europe. The church of Santa Maria del
Castillo, Gothic-Renaissance; the Gothic church of San Pedro; the Gothic hermit of Otero,
and the Canal de Castilla, are some of Fromista’s monuments.
Actually, I want to talk a bit of Canal de Castilla (Channel of Castile) because pilgrims will
cross it a few times during these stages of Camino de Santiago. The Canal de Castilla was a
huge hydraulic engineering project of the second half of 18th century and beginning of 19th
century. The Canal goes through parts of the provinces of Burgos, Palencia and Valladolid
and was built to facilitate the transport of grain to the ports in the north coast so that they
could be shipped overseas. However the arrival of the train soon brought the decadence of the
transport by boats along the Canal de Castilla. Nowadays, its major use is for the watering of
the cereal fields.
Finally, a bit of practical information: the public albergue in Fromista is quite big and has a
nice courtyard for hanging wet clothes, leaving the bicycles and staying out in the evenings.
It’s quite a big albergue but in summer months it can be full quite easily, but there are also
some other private hostels in town. In Fromista there are every kind of shops, bars,
restaurants, pharmacies and doctor. What else? A yes, banks, post office, etc, etc…
17. Fromista – Carrion de los Condes

As you can see this is again a pretty short stage that I walked, not even 20km! In this way the
Camino de Santiago will never end. As you might imagine it was again flat and hot and
monotonous landscape. Apart from the heat, I couldn’t imagine an easiest walk. So actually
you could walk further than to Carrion de los Condes, well maybe not because after Carrion
de los Condes there is a stretch of around 17km (a bit more than 10 miles) without any
village, trees or shade of any kind, literally desert like. But anyway, maybe you could come to
Carrion de los Condes from anywhere before Fromista too.
With Carrion de los Condes is the same again: today Carrion is a small village and, although
it is still important in the area, it has lost its past grandeur. Pilgrims have a great deal of
narrow medieval cobblestone streets, arches, castles, churches, convents, etc. to enjoy and see
in the evening. I remember especially the great dinner that we had in a restaurant. This area is
very good for meat, lamb in particular, so make sure you taste any local dishes and stay apart
from some unimaginative set menus or so-called “pilgrims menu”. Having said that, I’ve
found fantastic and delicious set menus (“pilgrim’s menus” or “menu del dia”) that not only
were a bargain but also included authentic traditional dishes of the area. However, just beware
because in some food places in Camino de Santiago quality and authenticity is losing the
battle against easy and quick profit.
Finally, some practical information. Carrion de los Condes has again every kind of services
that a modern town could be expected to have. There is a pilgrim’s hostel run by nuns who are
very nice and organize a fun singing session where each pilgrim can sing a song of their
country in their own language. Apart from that, there are also many private hostels and
pensions, and hotels too.
18. Carrion de los Condes – Ledigos (24km)

| Camino de Santiago
This stage of Camino de Santiago is reputedly one of the hardest just because of the fact that
after Carrion de los Condes there is a stretch of around 17km without anything. By “anything”
I mean villages, bars, fountains, etc, or civilization in just one word. From Carrion de los
Condes until Calzadilla de la Cueza the Camino de Santiago continues flat and although crops
change from year to year it seems that in this area sunflower fields are really abundant, for the
delight of the many pilgrims who fall in love with this flower in Camino de Santiago.
Trees and shade don’t exist and in summer months this area can be roasting, up to more than
40 Celsius, so if walking the Camino de Santiago in summer it’s really advised to get up
really early before sunrise to get this part done before the heats start. Actually what we had
planned to do here was a night walk, in other words completing another stage of Camino de
Santiago during the night. Finally that was postponed for later and we ended up getting up
quite late, as usually. So we got caught by the torrid heat, which was ok and really beautiful
too. One should be fine as long as one carries a good hat, sun screen cream, plenty of water
and some food such as dried fruits or even some “bocadillo” (Spanish word for a big
sandwich, made in a Spanish style. I think this word is the most pronounced by non-Spanish
speaking pilgrims in Camino de Santiago, and the one that brings more smiles).
We had a lazy picnic lunch in a small park in Calzadilla de la Cueza, eating the food we were
carrying followed by a long (and lazy too) siesta. And when the day cooled down a bit we
continued walking a bit more until Ledigos. Like Calzadilla de la Cueza Ledigos was again a
small and poor village not having even the medieval high category and splendor of their
neighbor Carrion de los Condes. However there was a nice big albergue with a really big
backyard with grass and I remember lying down on it for long in the dark night watching the
stars.
I never mentioned this before, but if you are a start gazing lover this part of Camino de
Santiago will be your paradise: the light pollution is nearly nonexistent as so is the noise
pollution, the air is clean and the fact of being at around 1000m (3000 feet) of altitude above
sea level makes thinner the atmosphere and the stars bright very strongly. It’s really a good
point to admire the Milky Way which because a white shiny Camino in the skies following
the direction of the Camino de Santiago itself.
19. Ledigos – Bercianos del Camino (26km)

This is an interesting stage of Camino de Santiago for the several decisions that need to be
made. You’ll see why I say this…
Shortly after the village of Ledigos comes Terradillos de los Templarios another small village
with hostel for pilgrims and around 10km later the bigger village of Sahagun. Sahagun has all
kind of services that the pilgrim might need: restaurants, bars, banks, post office, pharmacy,
GPs, shops, bus station, etc. Note that in Sahagun there is also a train station which connects
the village by train with Leon on one sense and Madrid to the other. Sahagun is a very popular
end of stage point in Camino de Santiago so you might choose to sleep in Sahagun’s pilgrim
hostel or any other private hostels or hotels that there are in the village. Or you might prefer to
continue walking a couple of hours more to Bercianos del Real Camino which I strongly
recommend.
Actually, in spite of presenting here Bercianos as the day ending point I’ve never stayed the
night in Bercianos as a pilgrim, but I know it well from my other part of the Camino
experience being a “hospitalero” (volunteer staff for pilgrim’s hostels). Still I’ve also never
been hospitalero in Bercianos, but in the next village El Burgo Ranero. To make this even
more confuse I’ll add up that right after Sahagun the Camino de Santiago splits into two
branches, so the aforementioned Bercianos and Burgo Ranero are in the southern branch.
Hopefully I’ll be able to clarify more this mess in the following lines.
To begin with let me introduce a bit of my personal pilgrim experience. What we actually did
was stopping in Sahagun for a big lunch in the siesta time, and after that we headed to the
village’s public swimming pool to spend there the rest of the siesta and evening. After the
sunset we continued walking. This was going to be our night trek. We were really bad
organized and we didn’t until where we wanted to arrive and barely had heard about the
splitting in two of Camino de Santiago. The plan was that there was no plan. So there we
were, nearly lost even before leaving Sahagun…
Soon after Sahagun there is the fork that divides the Camino de Santiago, we took the
Bercianos route that by chance turned up to be the true one. In Bercianos we stopped for a
break and a snack at around midnight, we sat down in the middle of the street and ate and
drank. After that, the group kind of divided in two too, some stayed sleeping in the sleeping
bags in the streets or some corner of the village’s square and some of us, including me,
continued walking. This sleeping on the village’s streets might seem risky and dangerous or
even crazy and sociable unacceptable but, believe me, it’s not, not in el Camino.
We left the Bercianos around 2am and I remember many shepherd dogs loudly barking at us
as we were leaving the last houses of the village. It’s in those moments when a good strong
walking stick gives you an extra bit of confidence. Finally, after a little more than an hour
walking we also got to tired and ended up sleeping on the prairie valley of a small water
stream, without a clue of where we really were, how close (or far) to the next village, really in
the middle of nowhere, the only certainty being that the Milky Way continued shining above
us.
With regard to the other branch that goes a bit more north through the village of Calzadilla de
los Hermanillos, its big selling point is that it follows an ancient Roman route but very little of
it remains and to the pilgrims it looks a normal dirt road like any other. Very few pilgrims
take this deviation but still there is a hostel for pilgrims in Calzadilla de los Hermanillos and
even some private hostel and rural houses for guests too. A while after Calzadilla de los
Hermanillos you can still join the main route following a local road to Burgo Ranero but if not
you will continue along this ancient and disappeared Roman road until Reliegos for the rest of
the day. It’s in Reliegos where both branches merge again. Be aware that between Calzadilla
and Reliegos there is a stretch of around 20km without any civilization at all, nor shade nor
tree. No matter of the Camino de Santiago branch chosen, a good Camino map would help
considerably for these stages.
So for the ones that will choose the normal thing, without doing crazy night treks or deviating
along routes that are not Camino and in fact make it longer, I’ll just talk about Bercianos a bit
because it has one of the most especial pilgrims hostels of the whole Camino de Santiago.
Berciano’s albergue is the old priest house, a majestic medieval house which was quite ruined
and has been renovated with taste and preserving the taste to old and monastic like austerity.
Its donation, renovations and provisions were all made thanks to the local community and the
priest himself and it’s run by the Volunteers Hopitaleros group with a very similar philosophy
to that of Grañon, back in La Rioja. Apart from the beauty of the building it’s remarkable the
community feeling that it’s created every night. The main part of the evening is the communal
dinner where all the pilgrims help the hospitalero to cook a dinner. The ingredients for the
dinner are bought with the donations of the pilgrims of the previous day. And the following
day’s dinner will be bought with the current day’s donation, so the pilgrims are responsible
for how well will dine their fellow pilgrims of the following day. This also provides a feeling
of continuity, a link to others.
After the dinner there is a tradition of singing a song of every pilgrim’s country which is
really fun. Following there is an optional spiritual moment in the small chapel of the house
that might have a Catholic meaning or just be a general meditation depending on the current
hospitalero’s choice, but that I would also advise even if you are not a religious person
because it also creates a very special bond and a sense of community.
20. Bercianos del Camino – Reliegos (20km)

Leaving Bercianos will be hard after realizing the good karma that the village and its people
have, but the Camino de Santiago is waiting…
Nearly all the Camino de Santiago stretch from Bercianos to Reliegos will be following a dirt
path parallel to a local narrow road with nearly no traffic at all. The town halls of these
villages have done the beautiful effort of planting a row of sycamores on the side of the path
whose shade will be appreciated when they grow bigger. Actually their shade is already
appreciated since most of them are already medium size. Keep in mind it’s not that easy to
grow trees in this desert like area.
In the middle of this stage of the Way of St. James there is El Burgo Ranero which also has a
public hostel for pilgrims, also run by the Volunteers Hospitaleros. I was sent there once as
hospitalero and know it well. The facilities of the hostel are very good. The hostel is on a
really charming cob house made only 20 years ago by the village’s people. However, the town
hall doesn’t allow the volunteers to arrange a communal dinner for the pilgrims (for the
obvious reason of increasing the business of the local restaurants and bars) and although the
stay in Burgo Ranero could be quite pleasant, it’s definitely not as touching as the experience
in Bercianos. It’s really mad if you think how societies can change in the stretch of 8km, now
we’re talking about the same country, region, province, shire and still people can be so
different from one village to the next one.
Burgo Ranero is a really good place to observe the traditional farmer poor cob houses, made
of earth and straw that were the only building materials that poor land can provide. Having
said that, this type of houses are the most suited for that weather of freezing winters and torrid
summers. Due to the good insulation properties and thermic mass of cob the houses are warm
in winter and cool in summer. They might look poor but actually it would be difficult if
possible at all to achieve that building a modern and expensive house which also would look
completely ridiculous and out of place. These cob constructions are pure environment friendly
buildings and will not leave any human footprint when abandoned since they’re made of earth
and will become earth again quickly.
Then after el Burgo Ranero there is a monotonous 13km walk until Reliegos, but if you feel
tired to walk them all, Villamarco is a village that the Camino de Santiago doesn’t go through
but passes only around 800m to its right 8km after Burgo Ranero. A new hostel for pilgrims
has been opened in Villamarco and pilgrims can take an easy deviation to this village which I
never visited but that looked as nice and pretty from the distance as an oasis in the desert.
Finally, Reliegos is a village alike the rest. It has a hostel for pilgrims, small food and grocery
shops and bars, but no ATM.
21. Reliegos – Leon (24km) | Camino de

Santiago
Now the beautiful city of Leon is within a stone throw. After Reliegos, the Way of St. James
takes you through Mansilla de las Mulas, another popular end of stage before reaching Leon.
Mansilla de las Mulas is a bigger village, already influenced by the proximity of a city.
Pilgrims will find in Mansilla all the common services that one pilgrim might be looking for.
Just after leaving Mansilla de las Mulas one has the feeling that he’s also leaving the “meseta”
and its endless flat cereal fields behind. The reason for that is the sight of the irrigated fertile
and green valley of the river Esla that comes down towards the river Duero from the peaks of
Asturias. Fields of poplars for wood production are very common around this area too.
Further down in between, Villamoros de Mansilla and Puente de Villarente there is the river
Porma, a tributary of river Esla, and therefore the same greenery continues.
After those villages the Camino de Santiago goes through some other dormitory villages very
close already to Leon. The last stretch before Leon, as the entry to every big city, is a bit
painful walking on the side of big and busy roads. However this one is not as bad as the entry
to Burgos which is by far the worse of the whole Camino de Santiago. I remember that at
some point I decided to give a try to hitchhike and the first car that came gave me a lift into
the center of the city breaking again the rules of a strict pilgrimage. However the ride was
very nice because the two lads were such characters. They were explaining me how they
supported the independence of Leon from Castile, and that if Leon had to be with some other
province to form a Spanish autonomous region those should be Asturias and maybe Zamora
instead of the rest of Castilian provinces. They were also complaining that under the current
autonomous division, i.e. being part of the autonomy of Castile and Leon, Valladolid, the
capital in Castilian territory was getting all the power and money. All this might not make
sense to a foreigner reader but it’s a good example to illustrate that in Spain no matter how
small they are every community wants to be independent from something bigger. There’ll be
still more examples to come later in Camino de Santiago.
Now let me add just a bit of history for this specific case. In the Middle Ages when the
Reconquista of the Iberian Peninsula began there were 5 Christian kingdoms: Aragon,
Navarre, Castile, Leon and Portugal. So from that starting point, Castile and Leon weren’t
quite the same, actually they were enemies for a long time. At the beginning Leon was the
most powerful kingdom but after some centuries both kingdoms merged by marriage
alliances.
And finally the promised city of Leon, the end of “la meseta”, fascinating medieval
architecture, typical fiesta, tapas and wine quartiers, and, maybe, a bit more of luxury to make
a break in the austere pilgrim’s life. I won’t even try to make a summary of Leon’s attractions
or landmarks or history, that’d be too much for these short stories that I’m writing. However
I’ll just add two notes. The impressive Gothic cathedral of Leon must be visited for it’s one of
the finest examples of the Spanish Gothic style and, above all, its 1800 square meters of
stained glass windows are one of the finest stained glass works in the world. Secondly, the
historic center of Leon is really charming with narrow cobblestoned streets and you should
look for the famous “Barrio Humedo” if you want to have some tapas and wines in traditional
Spanish taverns. If you have plenty of time, a break of a day to enjoy Leon wouldn’t be a bad
idea.
22. Leon – Hospital de Orbigo (24km) |

Camino de Santiago
erhaps you’ll feel reluctant to leave Leon but the Camino de Santiago continues and now there
are less tan 300km to Santiago de Compostela. The exit of Leon is a bit painful although not
excessive. There is still three or four hours walk along the “paramo” again dry and brown. But
right after Villandangos del Paramo the irrigated valley of the river Orbigo brings back the
greenery.
El Camino de Santiago takes you through the village of San Martin del Camino and then
finally to Hospital de Orbigo on the shores of the river Orbigo.
Hospital de Orbigo is a beautiful medieval village and takes its name from the hospital that
the Knights of Malta (The Sovereign Military Hospitaller Order of Saint John of Jerusalem of
Rhodes and of Malta) founded by the river Orbigo to assist the medieval pilgrims. Apart from
the nicely kept medieval buildings and charming streets the great landmark of the village is
the 13th century bridge over the river Orbigo. This long bridge has 19 arches and is really well
preserved. Hospital del Orbigo’s bridge is on the old Roman route that went from Leon
(Legio Septima Gemina) to Astorga, which was the Roman capital of the Roman province
Asturica Augusta.
Besides, there is a nice story about the Orbigo’s bridge. That’s the tournament of the
Honorable Passage. This fight tournament took place on the Jacobean Holy Year of 1434,
when Suero de Quiñones, a prestigious knight from Leon, asked the King Juan II of Castile
his permission to celebrate a special tournament which every knight that wanted to cross the
bridge had to take part in. If they didn’t want to participate, they had to leave a glove as a sign
of cowardice and cross the river wading it.
During one month Suero de Quiñones and his best friends were on the bridge waiting to battle
anyone who wanted to cross the bridge. After that they all made the pilgrimage to Santiago de
Compostela.
As a practical note, Hospital de Orbigo has every service that an average pilgrim might need
so no need to worry.
23. Hospital de Orbigo – Astorga (19km) |

Camino de Santiago
It’s a short walk from Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga. An easy day in the Camino de Santiago
that will allow you to fully enjoy the monumental city of Astorga located in the transition
from the “paramo” to the mountains of Leon.
Astorga has a great history having been founded by the Romans in the 1 st century B.C. It
became a very important communication hub and a mining center at the Romans time. After
some centuries of decadence it flourished again in the 11 th century with the beginning of the
pilgrimages to Santiago de Compostela and the Camino de Santiago. Astorga, apart from
being a very important point in the French Way, it’s where the Southern Camino de Santiago
coming from Seville: La Via de la Plata (which was actually another Roman route) merges
with the French Way.
Astorga’s cathedral is an amazing mixture of Romanesque, Renaissance, Gothic, Neo-

Classicist and Baroque elements since its construction was spammed several centuries. Then,
there is the 19th century Episcopal Palace (Palacio Espiscopal), designed by Antoni Gaudi.
Yes, you are right, it’s the same Gaudi of Barcelona. Astorga’s Episcopal Palace has a
Catalan Modernisme style and it is one of only three buildings by Gaudi outside Catalonia.
Other interesting landmarks of Astorga are the Baroque Town Hall, and the remains of the
Roman constructions and the city walls.
In overall the town which has little more than 10,000 inhabitants has a really nice atmosphere
and it’s a nice point for relaxing, doing a bit of sightseeing, enjoying good food and recover
all your strength for the following days. The Cruz de Ferro, which is highest point in all the
Camino de Santiago is just behind the corner.
24. Astorga – Molinaseca (47km) | Camino

de Santiago
This is one of my favorite days in the Camino de Santiago. You might wonder I walked such
a long distance for this stage. Well that’s simply because I was really enjoying it and I felt
strong to continue, so why would I have stopped? However there are many alternatives to
make this stage shorter, actually the most common thing would be to split it in two, for
example staying in the abandoned village of Foncebadon which has a couple of hostels. As
you see at this point I was making up for those lazy days of short stages back in the meseta.
After Astorga, the village of Rabanal del Camino is quite charming with its stone architecture
and could be a good point for having a breakfast of “brunch”. After Rabanal one realizes that
mountains are everywhere and Camino de Santiago starts ascending. I loved this change of
scenery. As I said before this leads to Cruz de Ferro, the highest point in Camino de Santiago.
So following a lovely earth track pilgrims reach Foncebadon, what could be the end of a stage
of 20 something km. Foncebadon was abandoned in the 60s and 70s due to strong
immigration to big cities like Madrid. In the last decade of the past century the village has
revived thanks to Camino de Santiago and now has services for the pilgrims such as hostel
and restaurant. It’s very picturesque and feels like time travelling.
Leaving Foncebadon behind the ascension to Cruz de Ferro continues always along a nice
path. There is a beautiful ritual about the Cruz de Ferro: pilgrims carry in their backpack from
home or pick up along the pilgrimage some little stone or something “heavy” (well let’s say
dense, let it be small, no need to bring a brick!) which symbolizes “something” they want to
leave behind, forget, or move forward from… These small stones are left around the Cruz de
Ferro and the backpacks become lighter and hopefully something else would become lighter
within the pilgrim… I didn’t do it, mostly because I didn’t know about this ritual until I got to
the very Cruz de Ferro but I just think it is a beautiful one and maybe some of you would like
to try it.
After Cruz de Ferro there is a prolonged descend until Molinaseca in a nice valley and on the
shore of a nice river. However, still high on the mountain and not too far from Cruz de Ferro,
el Camino goes through El Acebo which can be seen from above the slope like a dream with
its black slate roofs and stone cute houses. In El Acebo there is also pilgrim’s hostel open in
summer so it is another possibility of shortening the stage.
Finally Molinaseca, already in the Bierzo area, is also a nice stone village with a fluvial beach
on the cold water river which can be very enjoyable for the tired pilgrims’ bodies and a couple
of pilgrim’s hostels and wide range of restaurants and bars. In overall Molinaseca is a very
nice place for spending the night.
25. Molinaseca – Villafranca del Bierzo

El Bierzo is one of my favourite areas in Camino de Santiago. El Bierzo is a shire within Leon
province located in a fertile and green depression surrounded by mountains. The Bierzo wine
made with the local grape variety Mencia is quite difficult to find on stores outside the area
but it is very appreciated by the pilgrims and it is obviously on one of my reasons for liking
this shire of El Bierzo.
After Molinaseca it comes Ponferrada which is a big industrial city and capital of el Bierzo. I
didn’t like the city itself but its Knights Templar castle is really remarkable. In 1178,
Fernando II of Leon donated the city to the Templar order for protecting the pilgrims who
walked through El Bierzo along the Camino de Compostela. That is how the Knights Templar
established them in Ponferrada.
All the way to Villafranca del Bierzo from Ponferrada goes through a nice path mostly in
between vineyards and through nice villages such as Cacabelos which also has albergue.
Villafranca del Bierzo used to be the capital of el Bierzo and it is a very monumental village
full of churches and monasteries. In 1186 the bishop of Astorga obtained a papal bull by
which the Church of Santiago was to be built in Villafranca del Bierzo with the “Forgiveness
door” so that the sick pilgrims of Camino de Santiago, that couldn’t continue to Santiago de
Compostela, could gain there the Jubilee.
El Bierzo is funny to me because one can find many independentist graffiti. Some graffiti in
the province of Leon already claim independence from Castile region, and then the graffiti in
El Bierzo, which is still part of Leon province, claim independence from Leon. Therefore, the
next step would be a small single Bierzo village claiming pure independence from the rest of
the world!
Villafranca del Bierzo has also a fluvial beach in the Valcarce river which is really fun in
summer. The town has really good food tradition and several pilgrim’s hostels, shops and
restaurants.
26. Villafranca del Bierzo – Herrerias

oday is the day you could climb to Galicia. I left Villafranca del Bierzo with that intention but
little by little I discarded it since a 30km walk would be too hard if taking into account that
the last 10 or 8 km would be a very steep ascend. So I thought to leave it for the following day
in order to enjoy the breathtaking views in the morning when one is still fresh. However it is
possible and very normal to walk in one day the whole thing from Villafranca del Bierzo until
O Cebreiro, the first Galician village in Camino de Santiago, and in fact I have done it other
times.
The Camino de Santiago follows most of the day the old national road that used to join
Madrid with Galicia. However, it is a very pleasant walk because the road has nearly no
traffic at all since the new highway which flies over the valleys along impressive bridges gets
all the cars. There is also the beauty of walking most of the time along the green and deep
valley of the Valcarce river whose rapid waters make a fantastic soundtrack for the day. This
stretch of Camino de Santiago is definitely one of my favourites, the high mountains, above
us, flanking the valley make the walk quite of a peaceful and enjoyable experience.
Besides, the little villages and hamlets are very charming along the Varcarce river. Trabadelo,
Portela de Valcarce and Vega de Valcarce are verynice. I even took a refreshing bath in the
river in Vega de Valcarce in a long siesta break.
Finally we stopped in Las Herrerias de Valcarce right before the start of the slope. Las
Herrerias is very small and has very few services apart from little food shops. However, there
was a recently opened vegetarian pilgrim’s hostel where they cooked a great communal diner
for us and we enjoyed the soiree accompanied by other pilgrims and our nice host couple. It
was a perfect stop to get ready for the big day.
27. Herrerias – O Cebreiro – Triacastela

Finally it looks like el Camino de Santiago is taking you right into Galicia. This stage is one
of an amazing natural beauty. The climb to O Cebreiro, which is the first village in Galicia
along the Way of St. James, from Las Herrerias is a tough one, quite steep but as I said with
plenty of natural beauty and breathtaking views. It really depends also on your physical estate;
if you have started the Way of St. James in the Pyrenees you most likely won’t have any
problem in doing this climb. But if you have just started let’s say in Ponferrada or even Leon
you might find this 10km-ascend tremendously difficult.
Before O Cebreiro you will still come up some more albergue in Hospital and in La Faba in
case you need to stop for a rest. After that, el Camino de Santiago continues along the
rounded summits of the old and eroded Galician mountains. Everything is so green and
bucolic. One can already spot the aspects of traditional rural life in Galicia when passing
through the tiny and poor hamlets and stone farmer cottages. A typical and picturesque image
for the rest of Camino along Galicia will be the sight of small old women taking the cows to
the fields or bringing them back to the cowsheds.
I still remember clearly the first time that I arrived to O Cebreiro which was also my first time
in Galicia. It was really inspiring. I could hear sound of the traditional bagpipes in the
distance before entering the village and everything smelled to Celtic, to tradition, to green.
In O Cebreriro, a small stone village, there is a pilgrim’s hostel and some bars and small
shops enough to spend a night and enjoy a wonderful Galician sunset. I had done it once
before, however this time I preferred to continue to Triacastela which is around 20 km
downhill.
All the way to Triacastela the Camino de Santiago doesn’t pass through any village but small
hamlets appear here and there constantly. In high season it’s therefore possible to buy some
food supplies along the way, but better have a bit of stock for winter. Fountains are also
common.
This downhill stretch is also really charming and beautiful from a natural point of view and
relatively easy to walk. However, if you were destroyed by the climb, the descend could be
really hard for your joints especially with a heavy backpack, bear it in mind.
Finally, Triacastela has a couple of albergues and several shops and restaurants and bars. By
now you could already start drinking the Galician wines: Albarino and Ribeiro.
28. Triacastela – Sarria – Ferreiros (31km) |
Camino de Santiago
Now you are approaching the dreaded last 100km. Why is this last stretch dreaded? Well,
apart from meaning that the Camino de Santiago is coming to an end, from Sarria onwards
you’ll notice an abrupt increase of the number of pilgrims. The reason for this is because
Sarria is the last town before the, in my opinion absurd, 100km limit. Thus, every pilgrim who
has walked this last part from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela is entitled to get the
Compostelana diploma in the pilgrim’s office of the Santiago de Compostela’s cathedral.
Therefore, thousands of ‘pilgrims’, especially Spaniards, choose to start el Camino de
Santiago just in Sarria to walk the minimum allowed distance to get this diploma. My
personal opinion is strongly against this.
Nevertheless, today’s walk is again of astonishing natural beauty walking through Galician
native forests of beech. Actually, there are two choices to get to Sarria, one path goes through
Samos where there are a Benedictine monastery and abbey. This buildings are said to be art
and architectural jewels however I’ve never took this route having chosen the northern path
instead. I remember having read some bad news about Samos like the major of the village had
chosen to destroy an old roman road to rebuild a new modern one or something alike and that
pushed me out of walking through Samos. After, the next times that I came back I continued
walking the northern route since I had liked it so much the first time.
Anyway, both options are good and in Samos there is a pilgrim’s hostel in the monastery if
you want to live a medieval experience. Maybe the northern route goes along more into the
nature avoiding inhabited places. Finally both routes merge in Sarria which is actually a quite
nice village. In Sarria there are several pilgrim’s hostels, bars, restaurants, and a public
swimming pool ideal for hot summer days. In all Galicia the public pilgrim’s hostels that are
owned by the regional government have a fixed price; they started being free, then 3 euro, and
now 5 euro, but prices might go up soon again.
This time Sarria’s public pilgrim’s hostel was full, and we felt like walking a bit more so we
continued a couple of hours more until Ferreiros. Ferreiros is not even a village; it’s basically
a public albergue with a little bar in the middle of an oak forest so don’t expect any other
service than that. When we got to Ferreiros the pilgrim’s hostel was full again. Yes, if you
walk the Camino de Santiago in summer this will be happening to you in Galicia all the time.
So we just decided to sleep outside in the oak forest after a superb red sunset. And what a
right decision it was!! We were lucky that that night it didn’t rain and the usual fog wasn’t too
thick, the forest soil was soft and slightly in slope, so we slept like in a 5 start hotel, well, kind
of. I remember waking up in the morning with the vision of row of cows and a tiny shepherd
woman walking slowly behind layers of fog about 30 meters from us, quite an oneiric sight.
29. Ferreiros – Portomarin – Ligonde
After the misty and mysterious wakening in the Ferreiros’ oak forest (see pics below) another
day of nice Galician forests and green wet landscapes along the Camino de Santiago was
waiting for us. Keep in mind that this area has a very rainy weather so apart from July and
August it is quite probable that pilgrims will have some rain, and even in the summer months
rain wouldn’t be a surprise either.
Normally pilgrims walk the stages of Camino de Santiago: Triacastela – Sarria, and then
Sarria – Portomarin, and that’s probably what you’ll prefer to do; however, since the previous
day we walked farther than Sarria until Ferreiros we made again this stage further than
Portomarin until the tiny village of Ligonde.
I had good memories from my previous stay in Portomarin other times that I had walked the
Camino de Santiago but this time from Ferreiros the stage would have been too short had we
stayed in Portomarin. The entrance to Portomarin is quite impressive over a long and high
bridge flying over the mighty Mino River. Before descending to the bridge, on the opposite
slopes of the forested valley one can enjoy beautiful sights of the river, valley and Portomarin
itself. The town has several pilgrims’ hostels, public and private, and a big range of bars,
restaurants, shops and even a public swimming pool.
Our final stop for this Camino de Santiago’s stage was Ligonde, a tiny, bucolic and rural
village with farmer houses made of stone. We really felt very far away from civilization
surrounded by these green fields with no roads around and a quietness which we really
enjoyed. There are no real shops or bars in Ligonde but in the pilgrims’ hostel they cooked a
communal dinner for all the pilgrims and after that they played a movie or documentary that I
don’t remember exactly but had something to do with the life of Jesus.
The following day when we were leaving something funny happened. We had already left the
village and after having walked approximately 500m we saw a car approaching. It was the
man in charge of the hostel who was looking for us; he brought a copy of the New Testament
where he wrote some dedication for us, he gave it to us as present and wished us Buen
Camino. He tried to emphasize this gesture as an especial treatment only for us. Later, talking
to other pilgrims, we learnt that he was doing that to everyone. Still it was a nice thing I
suppose.
30. Ligonde – Palas de Rei – Ribadiso

From now on pilgrims can feel clearly that the Camino de Santiago is getting to its end.
Santiago de Compostela is closer and closer and that carries its pros and cons.
The landscape continues being rural, green and beautiful, sometimes reminding the Irish
landscape. The villages are poor, small and made of stone. A very peculiar symbol for this
final part of the Camino de Santiago is the “horreos”, which are cute small haystack and
granaries elevated around a meter or more from the ground over circular stone pillars to keep
the grain safe from the rain and great humidity of the ground in wintertime. Normally they
would have crosses in the top of the roofs. Galicia, as heart of the Celtic culture, is a land full
of myths and legends.
Once, I slept in Palas de Rei which is actually a medium size village with all kind of services
and from where I keep good memories of a great dinner of fish, seafood and the famous
Galician octopus which is delicious and a great white Galician wine. We also passed Melide
which is another famous town for “pulperias” (bars and restaurants specialized in octopus
dishes). Actually, the stretch of Palas de Rei – Melide is a proposed stage in most of the
guides, however since we were coming from Ligonde which is before Palas de Rei and
continued a bit more until Ribadiso we made this stage much longer up to 35km.
Somehow, walking longer stages didn’t hurt anymore in our feet and backs; the pilgrimage,
the Camino de Santiago was already our environment for so long that we were so well
acclimatized. What, at the beginning of the pilgrimage, back in the Pyrenees, might have
seemed an impossible day of walk seemed an easy enjoyable one at that point in Galicia. We
were in harmony with ourselves and with Nature. Sometimes I realized that the birds weren’t
disturbed when we passed by, we fit into the puzzle.
From a practical point of view now we were recovering the kilometers that we were failing to
do in our lazy “meseta” days so that the full walk of the Camino de Santiago would take us
around the 30-31 days which is the advertised length that most of the guides say.
Ribadiso is not even a village; it is just an albergue, which is actually a renovated rural house,
by a water stream and a bridge in the middle of green fields. There is a bar nearby that serves
dinner in summer time, I’m not sure in winter though.
The first time that I slept in Ribadiso I was lucky to be present in the Celtic ritual of the
preparation of the Queimada drink that they performed by the “horreo”. The Queimada is a
Celtic strong alcoholic beverage made of Galician aguardiente (Orujo Gallego) – a spirit
distilled from wine and flavored with special herbs or coffee, plus sugar, lemon peel, coffee
beans and cinnamon. Typically, while preparing the punch, a spell or incantation is recited, so
that special powers are conferred to the Queimada and those who drink it. Finally, the
Queimada is set on fire, and slowly burns as more brandy is added. This ritual takes place in
the night so that the flames of the Queimada on fire are really impressive and illuminate the
whole scene. Needless to say that it was a really special experience.
31. Ribadiso – Santiago de Compostela

It was lashing raining in the morning of our 31st day of Camino de Santiago. Leaving
Ribadiso we knew that, after nearly 800km walked, Santiago de Compostela was just a
stone’s throw away, just over 42km. Still, that was a substantial distance for a rainy day.
Therefore, we just focused on walking without worrying too much about the day’s
destination.
The more we walked the more it rained, and the more it rained the more we wanted to arrive
in Santiago. We were completely soaked and I was just thinking that there was no way that
our stuff would be dry and ready for another day of walk so it was probably better to keep on
walking as long as we could.
We took breakfast in Arzua which another important spot for pilgrim’s hostels although I
found it a quite ugly modern big town, but maybe it was just that the grey day made it duller.
And so on we continued under the rain. We we arrived in Arca do Pino which is a theoretical
end of stage, the last one before reaching Santiago, we had to assess our conditions and decide
whether to continue walking or not. We were truly wretched and we were already feeling
cramps in our muscles, in spite of the rain ponchos that we wore all our clothes and bags were
soaked. So we just kept walking, dreaming already of a nice hotel room in Santiago. Anyway
there would be another pilgrim’s hostel in Monte do Gozo, just 5 o 6km before Santiago de
Compostela, in case we couldn’t make it till the end.
The closer one gets to Santiago de Compostela the more urban the landscape becomes. The
Camino de Santiago gets to the airport of Santiago de Compostela and follows parallel to the
highways towards the city. Finally we got the famous “Monte do Gozo” (The Mountain of
Joy in Galician language). From the Monte do Gozo one supposed can already see Santiago
de Compostela and the Santiago’s cathedral itself and that’s why the joy comes in. I suppose
this hill got its name in the Middle Ages because nowadays one sees nothing but housing and
industrial states. Nevertheless, it’s quite an emotive moment cause even not being the
beautiful postcard sight that one was expecting it’s still Santiago de Compostela and that
means one is very close to accomplish the great challenge.
From now on everything should be a personal experience and I’m not going to tell mine
because no one should arrive with preconceive ideas nor having read other’s experiences. Just
a couple of final things: try to enjoy Santiago de Compostela as much as you can. It’s an
astonishing monumental city with great food, wine and party. It’s great to feel immersed in
the Galician culture.
In the Pilgrim’s Office, on one side of the cathedral, you can obtain the diploma that certifies
that you have completed your pilgrimage provided that you present your pilgrims’ passport
with stamps of albergues within the last 100km. However, I was present when they denied the
diploma to a friend who had walked all the way from France because somehow he didn’t get
the stamps in those last 100km (although he had stamps from the earlier part proving that he
had walked more than 600km before the stamps started missing). He was really upset and he
was right in being upset. That episode could actually raise a lot of questions, fairness, society,
rules, bureaucracy, and long etc… but hey! It was just a piece of paper!
At that point, in Santiago de Compostela, what really mattered was the journey and we were
happy for this life changing journey that, in fact, had just started.
I’ve never found more appropriated words for the Camino de Santiago than this poem
“Ithaca” of the Greek poet Constantine P. Cavafy:
When you set out on your journey to Ithaca,
pray that the road is long,
full of adventure, full of knowledge.
The Lestrygonians and the Cyclops,
the angry Poseidon — do not fear them:
You will never find such as these on your path,
if your thoughts remain lofty, if a fine
emotion touches your spirit and your body.
The Lestrygonians and the Cyclops,
the fierce Poseidon you will never encounter,
if you do not carry them within your soul,
if your soul does not set them up before you.
Pray that the road is long.

That the summer mornings are many, when,
with such pleasure, with such joy
you will enter ports seen for the first time;
stop at Phoenician markets,
and purchase fine merchandise,
mother-of-pearl and coral, amber and ebony,
and sensual perfumes of all kinds,
as many sensual perfumes as you can;
visit many Egyptian cities,
to learn and learn from scholars.
Always keep Ithaca in your mind.

To arrive there is your ultimate goal.
But do not hurry the voyage at all.
It is better to let it last for many years;
and to anchor at the island when you are old,
rich with all you have gained on the way,
not expecting that Ithaca will offer you riches.
Ithaca has given you the beautiful voyage.

Without her you would have never set out on the road.
She has nothing more to give you.
And if you find her poor, Ithaca has not deceived you.
Wise as you have become, with so much experience,
you must already have understood what Ithacas mean.
C. P. Cavafy.
Wise as you have become, with so much experience, you must already have understood what
Santiago means.
Camino de Finisterre & Muxia | Finisterre
Way
Once pilgrims have arrived in Santiago de Compostela they can still continue walking after a
well deserved rest. El Camino de Santiago hasn’t finished yet. There is a beautiful extension
or epilogue to el Camino de Santiago or The Way of St. James: the way to Finisterre and
Muxia (el camino a Finisterre y Muxia).
There are around 90 km from Santiago de Compostela to Finisterre. Finisterre is a village and
a cape in the Atlantic ocean. Finisterre means the end of the land, and this cape was the end of
the known land in the Middle Ages. The final goal of many pilgrims is arriving in Finisterre
and sitting down on the rocks of the cape in order to watch one of the most beautiful sunsets
in the world. It’s also a tradition to burn some clothes or anything that has accompanied the
pilgrims in their pilgrimage as a symbol of renovation, a rebirth.
Pilgrims need around 3 or 4 days to get to Finisterre from Santiago de Compostela. This is a
beautiful Camino much more unspoiled, less travelled and if you thought that when entering
Santiago de Compostela you missed the beautiful postcard images of the city and cathedral
now you’ll realize that those famous pictures were taken from the western exit of the Santiago
de Compostela, the exit to the ocean.
If after Finisterre you still want to walk more, el Camino de Santiago still continues a bit.
There are 30 km of really nice path along the beautiful coast to Muxia and its impressive
church on the ocean rocks. Here you can get another diploma accrediting that you’ve walked
el Camino de Santiago or Way of St. James until the end of the land!
“El Camino de Santiago doesn’t finish when you arrive at Santiago de Compostela, but it
does continue after it.
Following the sun till “the end of the earth” (Finisterre), admiring an amazing sunset from
the place where our ancestors thought the Earth finished, walk till it’s not possible to keep on
walking, and realising that, after all, we have to turn back home, keep El Camino in our hearts
and follow our walking through life…
But by then you’ve already learn that there’s always some arrow to follow, and most
important, that no matter if you get the wrong path provided that you enjoy every step and
every little thing that surrounds your own way.”
Contribution of Helen
http://www.caminosantiagodecompostela.com/camino-de-santiago-frances/part-1-st-jean-granon/

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I wouldn’t worry too much about whether your Credentials are the original Spanish version or one of

A favor de – Your Name

DNI – Passport Number

Comiena la peregrinacion - Date The pilgrimage begins

Good Luck and Buen Camino

Santiago de Compostela ( SPANIA) este locul de inmormantare a Apostolului Iacob cel

01. – 21 august-26 septembrie 2006 (900 de km în 36 de zile)

02. – 27 iulie-10 septembrie 2007 (1 250 de km în 44 de zile)

03. – 10 iunie – 17 iulie 2008 (1 000 de km în 35 de zile)

04. – 10 iunie – 12 iulie 2009 (1 000 de km în 33 de zile)

05. – 20 iunie – 25 iulie 2010 (1 000 de km în 37 de zile)

Camino – pas cu pas! – prima parte

3. Este recomandata o perioada anume ca sa-l parcurgi?

5. Iti faci traseul dinainte ?

7. Cum este drumul?

lateralul drumului,. De fapt el nu mai putea de cald

9. Unde dormeati noaptea?

Galerie Foto Camino 2006 http://picasaweb.google.ro/Camino.Santiago.de.Compostela.2006

Descrierea Pelerinajului spre Santiago de Compostela

Galerie Foto Camino 2006 http://picasaweb.google.ro/Camino.Santiago.de.Compostela.2006

Cele 4 trasee (chiar 5) importante de pelerinaj din Franta (care

005 - Camino Catalan Meridional, care pleaca de langa Barcelona de la Manastirea de

006 - Camino Catalan Septentrional, (denumit si Camino Catalan sau Camino de

Mai sunt si alte trasee prin Spania spre Santiago de Compostela :

Nu ne referim la problemele initiale cu musculatura neobisnuita cu efortul, deoarece prin aceasta

Prezentarea Pelerinajului la Santiago de Compostela din

Prezentarea Pelerinajului la Santiago de Compostela din

Galerie Foto Camino 2006 http://picasaweb.google.ro/Camino.Santiago.de.Compostela.2006

Tabel cu Zilele de pe Camino 2007 perioada 26 iulie-11 septembrie

Ziua 01 – 28 iulie 2007 (Sambata) - Moissac – Auvillar –

Ziua 02 – 29 iulie 2007 (Duminica) – Auvillar – Castet-Arrouy -

Ziua 03 – 30 iulie 2007 (Luni) – Castet-Arrouy – La Romieu -

Castet-Arrouy - Ferme de Barrachin – Boue – Pitrac – Lectoure – Pradoulin – Marsolan - La Romieu -

Ziua 04 – 31 iulie 2007 (Marti) – La Romieu – Montreal-du-Gers -

La Romieu – Castelnau sur l`Auvignon - Chapelle d`Abrin – La Mauraque – Chapelle Sainte-Germaine

Ziua 05 – 01 august 2007 (Miercuri) – Montreal-du-Gers – Sauboires -

Ziua 06 – 02 august 2007 (Joi) – Sauboires – Aire-sur-l`Adour -

Ziua 07 – 03 august 2007 (Vineri) – Aire-sur-l`Adour – Arzacq -

Ziua 08 – 04 august 2007 (Sambata) – Arzacq – Arthez-de-Bearn -

Ziua 09 – 05 august 2007 (Duminica) – Arthez-de-Bearn – Sauvelade -

Arthez-de-Bearn – Argagnon – Maslacq – Ruine Guironole – Lacoume – Sauvelade - 18 km -

Ziua 10 – 06 august 2007 (Luni) – Sauvelade – Aroue -

Ziua 11 – 07 august 2007 (Marti) – Aroue – Ostabat -

Ziua 12 – 08 august 2007 (Miercuri) – Ostabat – Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port -

Ziua 13 – 09 august 2007 (Joi) – Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port – Roncesvalles -

Ziua 14 – 10 august 2007 (Vineri) – Roncesvalles – Larrasoana -

Ziua 15 – 11 august 2007 (Sambata) – Larrasoana - Cizur Menor -

Ziua 16 – 12 august 2007 (Duminica) – Cizur Menor – Cirauqui -

Ziua 17 – 13 august 2007 (Luni) – Cirauqui - Los Arcos -

Ziua 18 – 14 august 2007 (Marti) – Los Arcos - Logrono -

Ziua 19 – 15 august 2007 (Miercuri) – Logrono - Najera -

Ziua 20 – 16 august 2007 (Joi) – Najera – Redecilla del Camino

Ziua 22 – 18 august 2007 (Sambata) – San Juan de Ortega - Burgos -

Ziua 23 – 19 august 2007 (Duminica) – Burgos – Castrojeritz -

Ziua 24 – 20 august 2007 (Luni) – Castrojeritz – Fromista -

Ziua 25 – 21 august 2007 (Marti) – Fromista - Carrion de los Condes -

Ziua 26 – 22 august 2007 (Miercuri) – Carrion de los Condes – Sahagun -

Ziua 27 – 23 august 2007 (Joi) – Sahagun – Reliegos -

Ziua 28 – 24 august 2007 (Vineri) – Reliegos – Leon -

Ziua 29 – 25 august 2007 (Sambata) – Leon - Hospital de Orbigo -

Ziua 30 – 26 august 2007 (Duminica) – Hospital de Orbigo - El Ganso -

Ziua 31 – 27 august 2007 (Luni) – El Ganso – Molinaseca -

Ziua 32 – 28 august 2007 (Marti) – Molinaseca – Pereje -