Manualul proprietarului de ceas bunicul actionat

de greutate
Weight Driven

Grandfather Clock Owners

Manual
Old English Text MT
http://www.masterclockrepair.com/ownersmanual.html

RESTAURAREA UNUI
MECANISM DE CEAS

CLOCK MOVEMENT
RESTORATION

http://www.masterclockrepair.com/clockmovtrest
oration.html

http://www.masterclockrepair.com/clockmovtre
storation.html

How We Restore A Clock Movement

Cum refacem un mecanism de ceas

Toate reviziile nu sunt "create" la fel.

All Overhauls Are Not "Created" Equal

Mai jos este o descriere a multor pailor

implicai n restaurarea unui mecanisme de
ceas antic american. Pentru cea mai mare
parte aceti pai se vor aplica la aproape orice
tip de ceas. Am ales acest mecanism de ceas,
ca exemplu, pentru c este cel mai comun
mecanism care se va ntlni n cele mai multe
magazine de reparaii.

Below is a description of the many steps

involved in the restoration of an antique
American clock movement. For the most part
the same steps will apply to almost any type of
clock. I chose this clock movement as an
example because it is the most common
movement that most repair shops will
encounter.

Toi reparatori vor cura i buca mecanismul

ceasului, dar muli dintre ei vor lsa unele
dintre cele mai fine detalii necesare pentru o
reparaie corect. Lsnd aceste detalii le
permit s perceap mai puin, dar te las cu o
reparaie inferioar.
Cu toate c acest lucru nu este deloc o

All repairmen will clean and bush the clock

mechanism, but many of them will leave out
some of the finer details necessary for a proper
1

descriere complet, pas cu pas, am inclus

punctele cele mai critice. Pentru a evita ca
acest lucru s ia prea mult timp nu am inclus
fotografii cu fiecare detaliu mic.
Dac am revizuit un ceas pentru tine, n trecut,
s-ar putea gsi interesant s ti ct de mult
efort a intrat n repararea lui. Dac ave i n
vedere, avnd un mecanism de ceas reparat,
acest lucru v va oferi o bun nelegere a
ceea ce se va face n cazul n care vom
efectua lucrarea pentru tine. n cazul n care
reparaii n alt parte, s-ar putea utiliza aceste
informaii pentru a v asigura c primii valoare
de banii ti.

repair. Leaving out these details allow them to

charge less but leaves you with an inferior
repair.

Although this is by no means a complete stepby-step description, we have included the most
critical points. To avoid making this too long we
have not included pictures of every small detail.

If we have overhauled a clock for you in the

past, you might find it interesting to know how
much effort went into your repair. If you are
considering having a clock movement
overhauled this will give you a good
understanding of what will be done if we
perform the work for you. If you are having it
done somewhere else, you might use this
information to make sure that you are receiving
your money's worth.

Mecanism antic american cu sonerie

Aceasta este ceea ce mecanismul ceasului
arat, atunci cnd a fost scoas din carcasa
ceasului clientului.

Antique American Strike

Movement

This is what the clock mechanism looked like

when it was removed from the customer's clock
case.

Notie
Din moment ce am reparat multe dintre
aceste ceasuri nu este necesar s elaborez o
schem complet a mecanismului, dar este
necesar s notez zonele pe hrtie, care vor
necesita o buc. Punctele indic suprafeele
2

lagrului. Sgeile indic acele suprafe e care

poart care sunt purtate prost. Direcia de
sgeata este un ajutor pentru a m ajute s
menin suprafeele de lagr la centrul
original, la instalarea buca. n cazul n care
acest lucru nu se face angrenajul nu se va
alinia i angrena la o adncime
corespunztoare pentru o funcionare mai
eficient i poate provoca chiar s eueze
ceasul. Angrenarea n partea de jos indic
direcia bobinei pentru principalele resorturi.
Eu art acest desen, deoarece muli reparatori
vor zgria aceste note direct pe ceas marcnd
permanent suprafaa. Cantitatea mic de efort
suplimentar pentru acest lucru necesar este
util deoarece ajut la pstrarea plcilor.

Notes

Since I have overhauled many of these clocks it

is not necessary to draw a complete diagram of
the movement but it is necessary to note the
areas on paper which will require a bushing.
The dots indicate the bearing surfaces. The
arrows indicate those bearing surfaces which
are worn badly. The direction the arrow points is
an aid to help me maintain the bearing surfaces
original center when installing the bushing. If
this is not done the gearing will not align and
mesh at a proper depth for most efficient
operation and may even cause the clock to fail.
The curls at the bottom indicate the direction of
coil for the mainsprings.
I show this drawing because many repairmen
will scratch these notes directly on to the clock
permanently marring the surface. The small
amount of extra effort this requires is worthwhile
because it helps to preserve the plates.

Dezasamblarea mecanismului
Dup eliberarea plgilor folosind o cheie,
principalele arcuri i clema arcului lsate n jos
ceasul este demontat.
Ne incluznd piuliele care in mecanismul
mpreun, exist 26 piese care alctuiesc
mecanismul de ceas. Fiecare dintre aceste
piese vor primi o atenie special nainte de
terminarea activitii. O examinare rapid a
fiecrei piese se face n cutarea dinilor sau
arborilor ndoii, pinioanele foarte uzate etc.

Disassembly of Movement
After releasing the wound mainsprings using a
let down key and mainspring clamps the clock
is disassembled.
Not including the nuts that hold the movement
together there are 26 parts which make up the
clock movement. Each of these parts will
receive special attention before the job is
3

complete. A quick examination of each part is

made looking for bent teeth or arbors, badly
worn pinions etc.

Curarea cu ultrasunete
Piesele sunt apoi puse ntr-un co cu plas de
srm i scufundate n rezervorul de curare
cu ultrasunete. Aceast imagine de mai jos
arat aparatul de curare cu ultrasunete cu
capacul ndeprtat. Este dificil de vzut aici,
dar degresantul chimic este agitat prin undele
sonore ultrasonice. Acest proces se numete
cavitaie. Undele sonore creeaz milioane de
bule mici, care fac implozie pe suprafeele
pieselor curate. Aceste implozii "frec"
piesele n degresantul n care acestea stau.

Ultrasonic Cleaning

The parts are then put into a wire mesh basket

and submerged into the ultrasonic cleaning
tank. This picture below shows the ultrasonic
cleaning machine with the lid off. It is difficult to
see here but the chemical degreaser is being
agitated by ultrasonic sound waves. This
process is called cavitation. The sound waves
create millions of tiny bubbles which implode on
the surfaces of the pieces being cleaned. These
implosions "scrub" the pieces as they sit in the
degreaser.

Lustruirea
Dup ce piesele sunt curate, acestea sunt
4

cltite cu un agent de uscare i apoi uscate cu

mn. n acest moment mi place s lustruiesc
piesele cu aceast main de lustruit cu
ajutorul unui disc abraziv de lustruit de srm.

Buffing

After the parts are cleaned, they are rinsed with

a drying agent and then hand dried. At this point
I like to buff the parts on this buffing machine
using a fine wire buffing wheel.

nainte i dup
Cu toate c acest pas nu este necesar
mecanic, d mecanismului finisat un aspect
mult mai luminos, mai curat. Imaginea de mai
jos prezint partea dreapt a roii care numr
a ceasului dup lustruirea i pe partea stng
nainte de lustruirea.

Before and After

Although this step is not mechanically
necessary, it gives the finished movement a
much brighter, cleaner appearance. The picture
below shows the right side of the clock's count
wheel after buffing and the left side before
buffing.

Restaurarea pivotului - Desen

nainte de a v arta pivoii reali m-am gndit
c ar putea fi de ajutor pentru a v arta un
desen a ceea ce vei vedea n cadrul urmtor.
Pivotul din desen din mijloc ilustreaz cum ce
ar trebui s arate un pivot asemntor. Prile
laterale sunt perfect plate. Desenele de sus i

de jos arat caneluri adnci sau anuri uzate

n suprafaa de pivotare. Aceste imagini sunt
cazuri extreme de pivoii foarte uzai. Cei mai
multe dintre pivoie dintr-un ceas nu vor fi aa
de ru, dei aproape toi vor avea nevoie de
unele refinisari.

Pivot Restoration - Drawing

Before I show you actual pivots I thought it
might be helpful to show a drawing of what you
will see in the next frame. The pivot drawing in
the middle illustrates what a pivot should look
like. The sides are perfectly flat. The drawings
above and below show deep ruts or grooves
worn into the pivot surface. These pictures are
extreme cases of badly worn pivots. Most of the
pivots in a clock will not be this bad although
almost all will still need some refinishing.

Restaurarea pivotului - Actual

Nu numai c suprafeele lagrului au uzur,
dar pivoi produc prin micare, de asemenea.
Prin urmare, este necesar s se rectificai att
suprafaa lagrului ct i a pivotului. Imaginea
de mai jos singur prezint trei imagini ale
aceluiai pivot n diferite etape ale procesului
de refinisare. Prima imagine prezinta pivotul
prost uzat. Murdria se amestec cu uleiul i
murdria acioneaz ca un abraziv, tie
suprafaa de pivotare ca o pil.
Imaginea din mijloc prezint acelai pivot dup
ce a fost netezit cu un pil fin. Deprinderile
au fost eliminate, iar prile laterale sunt acum
drepte. Cei mai muli ceasornicarii vor netezi n
continuare pivotul mptimiii cu mirghel i n
loc s se opreasc aici. Dei aceast
netezete n continuare suprafaa exist o
tendin ca mici cantiti de particulele
abrasive din mirghelul piele de bivol, pentru
a se ncorpora n suprafaa pivotului de oel.

Pivot Restoration - Actual

Not only do the bearing surfaces wear but
the pivots that turn in them also wear. Therefore
it is necessary to refinish both the bearing
surface and the pivot. The single picture below
shows three pictures of the very same pivot in
various stages of the refinishing process. The
first picture shows the badly worn pivot. As dirt
mixes in with the oil the dirt acts as an abrasive,
cutting into the pivot surface like a file.
6

n cazul n care se ntmpl acest lucru va

determina uzura prematur a noii suprafae de
lagr.
Imaginea de jos arat un pivot restaurat n
mod corespunztor. Not modul n care
aspectul lucios este comparat cu aspectul
destul de mat al pivotului de mai sus. Aceasta
se realizeaz fr a folosi
mirghel de bivol, abraziv sau compui de
lustruire de orice fel. Aceasta se face cu
ajutorul unui instrument numit lustruitor, care
este o pies fin finisat, perfect neted din o el
de nalt calitate, sub forma unei pile. Pasul
urmtor descrie acest proces mai detaliat.

The middle picture shows the same pivot after

being smoothed with a fine file. The ruts have
been removed and the sides are now straight.
Most clockmakers will further smooth the pivot
with emery buffs and then stop there. Although
this further smooths the surface there is a
tendency for small amounts of the emery buff's
abrasive particles to embed themselves into the
surface of the steel pivot. If this occurs it will
cause the new bearing surface to wear
prematurely.
The bottom picture shows a properly restored
pivot. Note how shiny the apppearance is
compared to the rather frosted look of the pivot
above. This is accomplished without the use of
emery buffs, abrasives or polishing compounds
of any kind. It is done with the help of a tool
called a burnisher which is a finely finished,
perfectly smooth piece of high quality steel in
the shape of a file. The next step describes this
process in more detail.

Lustruirea pe strung
Aceast imagine arat modul n care s-a
realizat lucrarea de mai sus. Roata dinat
este montat n strung i rotit cu vitez mare.
Pe msur ce pivotul se rotete o pil foarte
fin numit pilpentru pivoi este apsat
mpotriva lui i se mutat nainte i napoi,
pn cnd toate cicatricile sunt eliminate.
Pe lng aceasta o alt "pil" este folosit.
Acest pil nu are dini reali. Suprafaa "pilei"
este pregtit prin mangaierea lateral pe o
bucat de hrtie abraziv cu granulaia 120.
Acest lucru creeaz o pil foarte fin, cu o
suprafa utilizat pentru a netezi n
continuare suprafaa pivotului. Aceasta este
ceea ce este utilizat n imagine.

Burnishing In The Lathe

This picture shows how the above work was
performed. The gear is mounted in the lathe
and spun at high speed. As the pivot rotates a
very fine file called a pivot file is pressed up
against it and moved back and forth until all of
the scarring is removed.
Next another "file" is used. This file has no real
teeth. The surface of the "file" is prepared by
stroking it sideways across a piece of 120 grit
sandpaper. This creates a very fine file like
surface used to further smooth the surface of
the pivot. This is what is being used in the
picture.
The last step involves the use of the burnisher.
7

It is a piece of steel like the one in the picture

but is finished with up to 2000 grit sandpaper
which creates a very smooth shiny surface. This
surface is so smooth it does not cut against the
surface of the pivot like the two previous steps
but instead compresses the outer surface of the
steel pivot making any fine scratches disappear.

Instalarea bucei
Unul dintre principalele motive pentru
revizuirea general a ceasului este din cauza
suprafeelor de lagr uzate. Imaginea de mai
sus arat aceleai suprafeele portante
nainte i dup. Fotografia din stnga prezint
un lagr uzat i dreapta arat acelai lagr
dup ce s-a instalat o buc. Dac te uii atent
la cea de pe stnga, putei vedea c gaura nu
este rotund, ci n form de ou. Aceasta gaur
n form de ou va schimba distana ntre
centrele arborilor roilor dinate care, la rndul
su, modific adncimea. Aceast eroare n
profunzime poate crea tragere suplimentar n
tren de roi dinate i va face ca ceasul s nu
funcioneze n mod eficient. Noua suprafa
din dreapta este perfect rotund.
Buce de sunt n form de mici "gogoae" de
buci metalice confecionate din alam sau
bronz, care sunt folosite pentru a inlocui
metalul din zonele foarte uzate. Pentru a
instala o buc o serie de alezoare sunt
folosite pentru a deschide gaura uzat, avnd
grij s se menin centrul su original i apoi
buca este presat strns n gaura crend o
suprafa de sprijin, care este n mod normal,

BUSHING INSTALLATION
One of the main reasons we overhaul a clock is
because of worn bearing surfaces. The picture
above shows a before and after of the same
bearing surface. The left photo shows a worn
bearing and the right shows the same bearing
after a bushing was installed. If you look closely
at the one on the left you can see that the hole
is not round but egg shaped. This egg shaped
hole changes the center distance of the gears
arbor which in turn changes the depth. This
error in depth can create additional drag on the
gear train and will cause the clock to not
function efficiently. The new surface on the
right is perfectly round.
Bushings are small "donut" shaped pieces of
metal made of brass or bronze, which are used
to replace the metal in the badly worn areas. In
order to install a bushing a series of reamers
are used to open up the worn hole, being
careful to maintain its original center, and then
8

mai mic dect este necesar. Gaura mic va

fi deschis pn la dimensiunea
corespunztoare mai trziu.

the bushing is tightly pressed into the hole

creating a bearing surface that is normally
smaller than necessary. This small hole will be
opened up to the proper size later.

Aceasta este o alt imagine (de mai sus), care

prezint o suprafa portant reparat.
Imaginea din stnga arat nu numai o
suprafa portant uzat, dar, de asemenea,
arat o ncercare de amator de repararea a
uzurii. Privind ndeaproape putei vedea
semne de mici lovituri cu pumnul n jurul
exteriorului gurii. Un "reparator" de fapt, a
lovit n jurul prii exterioare a suprafeei
portante cu un pumn imbecil ncearcnd s
nchid gaura. Aceasta este o metod extrem
de slab i a fost folosit mai des dect s-ar
putea imagina. Imaginea din dreapta arat
aceeai zon cu o buc instalat. Din pcate,
unele dintre marcajele de neptur sunt nc
vizibile chiar i dup ce a fost instalat noua
buc.

This is another picture (above) showing a

repaired bearing surface. The picture on the left
not only shows a worn bearing surface but also
shows an amateur attempt at repairing the
wear. Looking closely you can see tiny punch
marks around the outside of the hole. A
"repairman" actually punched around the
outside of the bearing surface with a prick
punch trying to close the hole. This is an
extremely poor method and has been used
more often than you might imagine. The picture
on the right shows the same area with a
bushing installed. Unfortunately, some of the
prick marks are still visible even after the new
bushing was installed.

Broarea
Gurile uzate sau suprafee de lagr au fost
reparate, dar acum ele sunt prea mici.
Urmtorul pas este de a le face la
dimensiunea corect i s se potrivesc cu
pivotul care se va roti n interiorul acestuia.
Acest lucru este artat n fotografia de mai jos
i se face cu un instrument numit bro. Acest
instrument este un instrument de tiere conic
cu cinci laturi. Prin rotirea n interiorul gurii eu
sunt n msur s mresc ncet orificiul pn
cnd pivotul se potrivete perfect.
Partea din spate a fiecrei suprafee portante
este apoi teit, ceea ce nseamn c muchia

Broaching
The worn holes or bearing surfaces have been
repaired but now they are too small. The next
step is to make them the correct size and fit for
the pivot that will turn inside it. This is shown in
the photo below and is done with a tool called a
broach. This tool is a tapered, five sided cutting
instrument. By turning it inside the hole I am
able to slowly enlarge the hole until the pivot fits
perfectly.
The rear of each bearing surface is then
chamfered, meaning the sharp edge left by the
9

ascuit lsat de scula de tiere este

ndeprtat. Acelai instrument este apoi
folosit pentru a reface chiuveta de ulei
proaspt de pe partea exterioar a plcii.
Dup aceasta se face o netezirea cu un alt
instrument, numit bro de netezire. Este
foarte similar cu cellalt doar este rotund (nu
cu cinci fee) i laturile sunt netede. Aceast
bro lucreaz, cu un strat subire de ulei, este
mpins greu n suprafaa lagrului nou tiat i
rotit n gaur. Aceast aciune, este similar
cu lustruirea pivotului de ceas menionat mai
devreme, ambele netezesc i se ntresc
suprafaele de lucru i mbuntesc
durabilittea lagrului. Acesta este un pas pe
care muli reparatori l lsa afar, atunci cnd
fac reparaii capitale la un ceas.
Odat ce se fac aceti pai la fiecare suprafa
care poart, fiecare tren de roi dinate este
pus n aplicare ntre plcile ceasului i ntors
pentru a verifica netezimea micrii.Fiecare
roat este, de asemenea, verificat pentru
ceea ce este numit captul corespunztor i
se agit lateral precum i n adncime

cutting tool is removed. The same tool is then

used to cut fresh oil sinks on the outside of the
plate.
After this is done another tool, called a
smoothing broach is used. It is very similar to
the other one only it is round (not five sided)
and the sides are smooth. This broach, with a
light coating of oil, is pushed hard into the newly
cut bearing surface and rotated in the hole. This
action, similar to the burnishing of the clock
pivot mentioned earlier, both smooths and
hardens the working surface of the bearing
improving durability. This is a step that many
repairmen leave out when overhauling a clock.
Once these steps are taken for each and every
bearing surface each gear train is put in place
between the clock plates and spun to check for
smoothness of motion. Each gear is also
checked for what is called proper end and side
shake as well as depthing.

Lantern Pinions
Pinionele lantern
Imaginea de mai jos este o fotografie, nainte
i dup, a ceea ce se numesc pinioanele
lantern. Aceste pinioanele sunt conduse de
dinii de alam de pe roile dinate ale
ceasului. Imaginea de sus arat n mod clar
anurile produse n suprafeele pinionului.
Imaginea de jos face parte din aceeai roat

The picture below is a before and after photo of

what are called lantern pinions. These pinions
are driven by the brass teeth on the clock
gears. The top picture clearly shows ruts worn
into the pinion surfaces. The bottom picture is
part of the same gear but with new pinions
installed and the brass shrouds polished.

10

dinat, dar cu noile pinioanele instalate i

nveliurilor de alam lustruite.

Worn Clock Levers

This might be hard to see but the in the picture

below the vertical lever on right is worn on its tip
and the horizontal lever with the 90 degree
bend on the top left side has a rut worn across
its surface on the part that is pointing down.

Prghiile ceasului uzate

Acest lucru ar putea fi greu pentru a fi vzut,
dar n imaginea de mai jos prghia vertical
este uzat pe vrful pe dreapta i prghia
orizontal cu cotul de 90 de grade n partea
din stnga sus are un an uzat pe suprafaa
sa pe partea care este ndreptat n jos .

Polished Levers
Same levers with the worn spots polished out.
Leaving worn spots on levers can cause
intermittent failure.
Much of the overhaul work I see done by other
repairmen ignore these worn lever surfaces.

Prghiile lustruite
Aceleai prghii cu locurile uzate lustruite
afar. Lsnd locuri uzate pe prghii pot duce
la defectarea intermitent.
De mult n munca de reparare facut de al i
reparatori am vzut c ignora aceste suprafe e
de prghie uzate.

11

Pallet Polishing

Lustruirea paleilor
Imaginea de mai sus este o comparaie n
paralel a aceluiai set de palei. Cea din
stnga, nainte de lustruire, iar cea din
dreapta, dup. Dac te uii atent la cel de pe
stnga (n partea de jos) ar trebui s fi capabil
s detectezi un an uzat pe vertical peste
centrul feei palet.
Paleii i roata de evacuare lucreaz mpreun
pentru a face partea ceasului numit
eapamentul.
Esapamentul este inima ceasului i nu mparte
doar timpul permind doar un singur dinte la
un moment dat pentru a "scpa", dar, de
asemenea, creeaz puterea sau impulsul care
mpinge pendulul nainte i napoi. De la acest
lucru vine sunetul "tic-toc". Aceste suprafee
sunt lovite de mii de ori pe zi, de dinii de
alam ai roii eapamentului. Murdria care se
ncorporeaz n suprafaa dinilor taie n cele
din urm n suprafaa paletului ca o pil. Uzura
aceasta ia multi ani sa apar, dar este foarte
frecvent pe ceasuri antice.
Uzura trebuie s fie ndeprtat i apoi
lustruit. Acest lucru este realizat cu o serie de
plci de mirghel de diferite granulaii ntr-un
mod care elimin cea mai mic cantitate de
metal i menine unghiurile originale. n cazul
n care este ndeprtat prea mult metal sau
unghiurile schimbate paleii trebuie s fie
reconfigurai sau ndoii, pentru ca acestea s
fie ajustate n mod corespunztor odat ce

The picture above is a side by side comparison

of the same set of pallets. The one on the left,
before polishing, and the one on the right, after.
If you look closely at the one on left (at the
bottom) you should be able to detect a rut worn
vertically across the center of the pallet face.
The pallets and the escape wheel work together
to make up a part of the clock called the
escapement.
The escapement is the heart of the clock and
not only divides time by allowing only one tooth
at a time to escape but also creates the power
or impulse that pushes the pendulum back and
forth. This is where the "tic-toc" sound comes
from. These surfaces are impacted thousands
of times a day by the brass teeth of the escape
wheel. Dirt which embeds itself in the surface of
the teeth eventually cuts into the pallet surface
like a file. Wear like this takes many, many
years to occur but is very common on antique
clocks.
The wear must be ground out and then
polished. This is accomplished with a series of
emery boards of different grits in a way that
removes the least amount of metal and
maintains the original angles. If too much metal
is removed or the angles changed the pallets
must be reshaped or bent in order for them to
be adjusted properly once they are put back on
the clock.
This process of resetting an escapement is little
understood my many who claim to be able to
repair clocks but is vital to its proper operation.

12

acestea sunt puse napoi pe ceas.

Acest proces de resetare a unui eapament
este puin neles de muli care pretind a fi
capabil de a repara ceasuri, dar este vital
pentru funcionarea corespunztoare a
acestuia.

Clock Levers
This shows a hammer lever on right and a
different view of the pallets discussed in the last
section on the left.
I prefer to straighten these levers as they have
often been bent out of shape many times in the past
by previous repairmen.

Prghiile ceasului
Acest lucru arat o prghie ciocan pe dreapta
i o imagine diferit a paleilor discutai n
ultima seciune din partea stng.
Prefer s ndrept aceste prghii, deoarece
acestea au fost adesea ndoite de la form de
multe ori n trecut de ctre reparatori anteriori.

Same Levers Straightened

Although this will not be their final state when

installed in the clock, it gives me a fresh place
to start when bending them into a proper
working position.

Aceleai prghii ndreptate

Cu toate c acestea nu vor fi n starea lor
final atunci cnd sunt instalate n ceas, mi d
13

un loc proaspt pentru a ncepe ndoirea lor

ntr-o poziie corect de lucru.

Mainwheels
These are the mainwheels (below) that carry
the mainsprings to power the clock. These
gears contain the ratcheting system which holds
the spring wound when the winding key is
turned.
The ratchet wheel (looks like a circular saw
blade) in the center must be checked too see
that none of the teeth are damaged and the
clicks must be checked to see that their
surfaces are still sound in order to engage the
ratchet teeth properly. If not worn too badly the
acting surfaces of the clicks can be filed smooth
and the rivets checked for proper tightness. If
the click is worn too badly it must be replaced.
After this is accomplished the click springs, the
"c" shaped wire that you see, is adjusted to
apply the proper pressure against the click to
push it into the ratchet teeth.

Roile principale
Acestea sunt roile principalele (de mai jos),
care transport puterea de la arcurile
principalele ale ceasului. Aceste roi dinate
conin sistemul cu clichet, care reine arcul
nfurat atunci cnd cheia de nfurare este
activat.
Roata cu clichet (arata ca o lam de ferstru
circular), n centru, trebuie s fie verificat
pentru a vedea c nici unul dintre dinii nu este
deteriorat, iar clicurile trebuie s fie verificate
pentru a vedea c suprafeele lor sunt nc
solide pentru a se angaja cu dinii clichetului n
mod corespunztor. n cazul n care nu sunt
uzate prea grav suprafeele care acioneaz
din clicurile pot fi pilite neted i niturile
verificate pentru jocuri corespunztoare. n
cazul n care un clic este uzat prea ru, trebuie
s fie nlocuit.
Dup ce acest lucru se realizeaz arcul
clichetului , srm n form "c" pe care o
vedei, este ajustat pentru a aplica presiunea
corespunztoare mpotriva clicul s-l mping
n dini cu clichet.

Mainsprings
The mainspring on the top is an old weakened
mainspring. A mainspring like this is considered
"set". If we put this mainspring back in the clock
we run the risk of the clock not operating a full
week on one winding.
For comparison, the mainspring on the bottom
shows a new one of same strength and length.
Because it is not "set" it expands into a much
larger diameter.

14

Open Movement
Prior to assembly the clock plates are often recleaned and each pivot hand wiped and
examined to be sure there is no contamination.
This is a picture of a freshly overhauled clock
mechanism just before the top plate is installed.

Arcurile principale
Arcul de pe partea de sus este un arc vechi
slbit. O cauz principal c acesta este
considerat "setat/obosit". Dac punem acest
arc napoi n ceasul va rula dar exist riscul ca
ceasul s nu opereaz o sptmn pe o
singur nfurare.
Pentru comparaie, arcul principal pe partea
de jos arat unul nou de aceeai rezisten i
lungime. Pentru c nu este "setat/obosit" se
destinde ntr-un diametru mult mai mare.

Completed Restoration
After the top plate is set in position and all the
pivots fed into the fresh bearing surfaces the
striking gear train must be properly
synchronized and the levers and escapement
properly adjusted. The clock is then oiled,
wound up and hand tested at the bench before
installing in case. The clock is then tested for a
week in order to determine that it will run and
strike for a full week's duration. During this time
the clock is also regulated to assure proper
timekeeping.

Mecanismul deschis
nainte de asamblarea plcilor de ceas sunt
de multe ori recurate i fiecare pivot
ters manual i examinate pentru a fi sigur c
nu exist nici o contaminare.
Aceasta este imaginea unui mecanism de
ceas proaspt revizuit chiar nainte de
instalarea plcii superioare.

15

Before Picture
In case you forgot what this clock looked like
before the restoration here is a reminder below.

Restaurarea finalizat
Dup ce placa superioar este stabilit la
poziie i toate pivoturile introduse n
suprafeele lagrelor proaspte, trenul ro ilor
de lovire trebuie s fie sincronizate n mod
corespunztor i prghiile i clichetul reglate
corect. Ceasul este apoi uns cu ulei, ntors
complet i indicatoarele, testat la banc nainte
de al instala n cutie. Ceasul este apoi testat
pentru o sptmn, pentru a se stabili c va
funciona i suna pentru o durat de o
sptmn ntreag. n acest timp, ceasul este
de asemenea reglat pentru a asigura
cronometrarea corespunztoare.

Here is another set of before and after

pictures of a Seth Thomas time and strike
movement we restored. Note the extreme
amount of rust in the picture on the left.
If you would like new life restored to your old
worn out clock give us a call!
See our Before and After pages for more
dramatic pictures of movement, dial and case
restorations.

16

Imaginea de altdat
In cazul in care ai uitat cum arta acest ceas
nainte de restaurare, aici este amintirea de
mai jos.

Aici este un alt set de imagini nainte i dup

a unui mecanism de ceas Seth Thomas i
soneria restaurate.
Reinei cantitatea extrem de rugin n
imaginea din partea stng.
Dac dorii o nou via restaurat
vechiului ceas uzat ne dai un telefon!
Vezi nainte si Dup pagini cu mai multe
imagini dramatice cu mecanismul, cadranul i
cutia restaurate.

17

RESTAURAREA UNUI MECANISM DE CEAS

http://www.masterclockrepair.com/clockmovtrestoration.html

Cum refacem un mecanism de ceas

Toate reviziile nu sunt "create" la fel.
Mai jos este o descriere a multor pailor implica i n restaurarea unui mecanisme de ceas antic
american. Pentru cea mai mare parte aceti pai se vor aplica la aproape orice tip de ceas. Am
ales acest mecanism de ceas, ca exemplu, pentru c este cel mai comun mecanism care se va
ntlni n cele mai multe magazine de repara ii.
Toi reparatori vor cura i buca mecanismul ceasului, dar mul i dintre ei vor lsa unele dintre
cele mai fine detalii necesare pentru o repara ie corect. Lsnd aceste detalii le permit s
perceap mai puin, dar te las cu o repara ie inferioar.
Cu toate c acest lucru nu este deloc o descriere complet, pas cu pas, am inclus punctele cele
mai critice. Pentru a evita ca acest lucru s ia prea mult timp nu am inclus fotografii cu fiecare
detaliu mic.
Dac am revizuit un ceas pentru tine, n trecut, s-ar putea gsi interesant s ti ct de mult efort
a intrat n repararea lui. Dac avei n vedere, avnd un mecanism de ceas reparat, acest lucru
v va oferi o bun nelegere a ceea ce se va face n cazul n care vom efectua lucrarea pentru
tine. n cazul n care reparaii n alt parte, s-ar putea utiliza aceste informa ii pentru a v asigura
c primii valoare de banii ti.

Mecanism antic american cu sonerie

Aceasta este ceea ce mecanismul ceasului arat, atunci cnd a fost scos din carcasa ceasului
clientului.

18

Notie
Din moment ce am reparat multe dintre aceste ceasuri nu este necesar s elaborez o schem
complet a mecanismului, dar este necesar s notez zonele pe hrtie, care vor necesita o
buc. Punctele indic suprafeele lagrului. Sge ile indic acele suprafe e care poart care
sunt purtate prost. Direcia de sgeata este un ajutor pentru a m ajute s men in suprafe ele
de lagr la centrul original, la instalarea buc a. n cazul n care acest lucru nu se face angrenajul
nu se va alinia i angrena la o adncime corespunztoare pentru o func ionare mai eficient i
poate provoca chiar s eueze ceasul. Angrenarea n partea de jos indic direc ia bobinei pentru
principalele resorturi.
Eu art acest desen, deoarece muli reparatori vor zgria aceste note direct pe ceas marcnd
permanent suprafaa. Cantitatea mic de efort suplimentar pentru acest lucru necesar este util
deoarece ajut la pstrarea plcilor.

Dezasamblarea mecanismului
Dup eliberarea plgilor folosind o cheie, principalele arcuri i clema arcului lsate n jos ceasul
este demontat.
Ne incluznd piuliele care in mecanismul mpreun, exist 26 piese care alctuiesc
mecanismul de ceas. Fiecare dintre aceste piese vor primi o aten ie special nainte de
terminarea activitii. O examinare rapid a fiecrei piese se face n cutarea din ilor sau
arborilor ndoii, pinioanele foarte uzate etc.

19

Curarea cu ultrasunete
Piesele sunt apoi puse ntr-un co cu plas de srm i scufundate n rezervorul de cur are cu
ultrasunete. Aceast imagine de mai jos arat aparatul de cur are cu ultrasunete cu capacul
ndeprtat. Este dificil de vzut aici, dar degresantul chimic este agitat prin undele sonore
ultrasonice. Acest proces se numete cavitaie. Undele sonore creeaz milioane de bule mici,
care fac implozie pe suprafeele pieselor cur ate. Aceste implozii "frec" piesele n degresantul
n care acestea stau.

Lustruirea
Dup ce piesele sunt curate, acestea sunt cltite cu un agent de uscare i apoi uscate cu
mn. n acest moment mi place s lustruiesc piesele cu aceast ma in de lustruit cu ajutorul
unui disc abraziv de lustruit de srm.

20

nainte i dup
Cu toate c acest pas nu este necesar mecanic, d mecanismului finisat un aspect mult mai
luminos, mai curat. Imaginea de mai jos prezint partea dreapt a ro ii care numr a ceasului
dup lustruirea i pe partea stng nainte de lustruirea.

Restaurarea pivotului - Desen

nainte de a v arta pivoii reali m-am gndit c ar putea fi de ajutor pentru a v arta un desen
a ceea ce vei vedea n cadrul urmtor. Pivotul din desen din mijloc ilustreaz cum ce ar trebui
s arate un pivot asemntor. Prile laterale sunt perfect plate. Desenele de sus i de jos arat
caneluri adnci sau anuri uzate n suprafaa de pivotare. Aceste imagini sunt cazuri extreme
de pivoii foarte uzai. Cei mai multe dintre pivo ie dintr-un ceas nu vor fi a a de ru, de i
aproape toi vor avea nevoie de unele refinisari .

21

Restaurarea pivotului - Actual

Nu numai c suprafeele lagrului au uzur, dar pivo i produc prin mi care, de asemenea. Prin
urmare, este necesar s se rectificai att suprafa a lagrului ct i a pivotului. Imaginea de mai
jos singur prezint trei imagini ale aceluia i pivot n diferite etape ale procesului de refinisare.
Prima imagine prezinta pivotul prost uzat. Murdria se amestec cu uleiul i murdria
acioneaz ca un abraziv, tie suprafaa de pivotare ca o pil.
Imaginea din mijloc prezint acelai pivot dup ce a fost netezit cu un pil fin. Deprinderile au
fost eliminate, iar prile laterale sunt acum drepte. Cei mai mul i ceasornicarii vor netezi n
continuare pivotul mptimiii cu mirghel i n loc s se opreasc aici. De i aceast neteze te
n continuare suprafaa exist o tendin ca mici cantit i de particulele abrasive din mirghelul
piele de bivol, pentru a se ncorpora n suprafa a pivotului de o el.
n cazul n care se ntmpl acest lucru va determina uzura prematur a noii suprafa e de lagr.
Imaginea de jos arat un pivot restaurat n mod corespunztor. Not modul n care aspectul
lucios este comparat cu aspectul destul de mat al pivotului de mai sus. Aceasta se realizeaz
fr a folosi mirghel de bivol, abraziv sau compu i de lustruire de orice fel. Aceasta se face cu
ajutorul unui instrument numit lustruitor, care este o pies fin finisat, perfect neted din o el de
nalt calitate, sub forma unei pile. Pasul urmtor descrie acest proces mai detaliat.

Lustruirea pe strung
Aceast imagine arat modul n care s-a realizat lucrarea de mai sus. Roata din at este
montat n strung i rotit cu vitez mare. Pe msur ce pivotul se rote te o pil foarte fin
numit pilpentru pivoi este apsat mpotriva lui i se mutat nainte i napoi, pn cnd toate
cicatricile sunt eliminate.

22

Pe lng aceasta o alt "pil" este folosit. Acest pil nu are din i reali. Suprafa a "pilei" este
pregtit prin mangaierea lateral pe o bucat de hrtie abraziv cu granula ia 120. Acest lucru
creeaz o pil foarte fin, cu o suprafa utilizat pentru a netezi n continuare suprafa a
pivotului. Aceasta este ceea ce este utilizat n imagine.

Instalarea bucei
Unul dintre principalele motive pentru revizuirea general a ceasului este din cauza suprafe elor
de lagr uzate. Imaginea de mai sus arat acelea i suprafe ele portante nainte i dup.
Fotografia din stnga prezint un lagr uzat i dreapta arat acela i lagr dup ce s-a instalat o
buc. Dac te uii atent la cea de pe stnga, pute i vedea c gaura nu este rotund, ci n form
de ou. Aceasta gaur n form de ou va schimba distan a ntre centrele arborilor ro ilor din ate
care, la rndul su, modific adncimea. Aceast eroare n profunzime poate crea tragere
suplimentar n tren de roi dinate i va face ca ceasul s nu func ioneze n mod eficient. Noua
suprafa din dreapta este perfect rotund.
Buce de sunt n form de mici "gogoae" de buc i metalice confec ionate din alam sau
bronz, care sunt folosite pentru a inlocui metalul din zonele foarte uzate. Pentru a instala o
buc o serie de alezoare sunt folosite pentru a deschide gaura uzat, avnd grij s se
menin centrul su original i apoi buca este presat strns n gaura crend o suprafa de
sprijin, care este n mod normal, mai mic dect este necesar. Gaura mic va fi deschis pn
la dimensiunea corespunztoare mai trziu.

Aceasta este o alt imagine (de mai sus), care prezint o suprafa portant reparat. Imaginea
din stnga arat nu numai o suprafa portant uzat, dar, de asemenea, arat o ncercare de
23

amator de repararea a uzurii. Privind ndeaproape pute i vedea semne de mici lovituri cu pumnul
n jurul exteriorului gurii. Un "reparator" de fapt, a lovit n jurul pr ii exterioare a suprafe ei
portante cu un pumn imbecil ncearcnd s nchid gaura. Aceasta este o metod extrem de
slab i a fost folosit mai des dect s-ar putea imagina. Imaginea din dreapta arat aceea i
zon cu o buc instalat. Din pcate, unele dintre marcajele de n eptur sunt nc vizibile
chiar i dup ce a fost instalat noua buc.

Broarea
Gurile uzate sau suprafee de lagr au fost reparate, dar acum ele sunt prea mici. Urmtorul
pas este de a le face la dimensiunea corect i s se potrivesc cu pivotul care se va roti n
interiorul acestuia. Acest lucru este artat n fotografia de mai jos i se face cu un instrument
numit bro. Acest instrument este un instrument de tiere conic cu cinci laturi. Prin rotirea n
interiorul gurii eu sunt n msur s mresc ncet orificiul pn cnd pivotul se potrive te
perfect.
Partea din spate a fiecrei suprafee portante este apoi te it, ceea ce nseamn c muchia
ascuit lsat de scula de tiere este ndeprtat. Acela i instrument este apoi folosit pentru a
reface chiuveta de ulei proaspt de pe partea exterioar a plcii.
Dup aceasta se face o netezirea cu un alt instrument, numit bro de netezire. Este foarte
similar cu cellalt doar este rotund (nu cu cinci fe e) i laturile sunt netede. Aceast bro
lucreaz, cu un strat subire de ulei, este mpins greu n suprafa a lagrului nou tiat i rotit n
gaur. Aceast aciune, este similar cu lustruirea pivotului de ceas men ionat mai devreme,
ambele netezesc i se ntresc suprafaele de lucru i mbunt esc durabilittea lagrului.
Acesta este un pas pe care muli reparatori l lsa afar, atunci cnd fac repara ii capitale la un
ceas.
Odat ce se fac aceti pai la fiecare suprafa care poart, fiecare tren de ro i din ate este pus
n aplicare ntre plcile ceasului i ntors pentru a verifica netezimea mi crii.Fiecare roat este,
de asemenea, verificat pentru ceea ce este numit captul corespunztor i se agit lateral
precum i n adncime

Pinionele lantern
24

Imaginea de mai jos este o fotografie, nainte i dup, a ceea ce se numesc pinioanele lantern.
Aceste pinioanele sunt conduse de dinii de alam de pe ro ile din ate ale ceasului. Imaginea de
sus arat n mod clar anurile produse n suprafe ele pinionului. Imaginea de jos face parte din
aceeai roat dinat, dar cu noile pinioanele instalate i nveli urilor de alam lustruite.

Prghiile ceasului uzate

Acest lucru ar putea fi greu pentru a fi vzut, dar n imaginea de mai jos prghia vertical este
uzat pe vrful pe dreapta i prghia orizontal cu cotul de 90 de grade n partea din stnga sus
are un an uzat pe suprafaa sa pe partea care este ndreptat n jos .

Prghiile lustruite
Aceleai prghii cu locurile uzate lustruite afar. Lsnd locuri uzate pe prghii pot duce la
defectarea intermitent.
De mult n munca de reparare facut de al i reparatori am vzut c ignora aceste suprafe e de
prghie uzate.

25

Lustruirea paleilor
Imaginea de mai sus este o comparaie n paralel a aceluia i set de pale i. Cea din stnga,
nainte de lustruire, iar cea din dreapta, dup. Dac te ui i atent la cel de pe stnga (n partea de
jos) ar trebui s fi capabil s detectezi un an uzat pe vertical peste centrul fe ei palet.
Paleii i roata de evacuare lucreaz mpreun pentru a face partea ceasului numit
eapamentul.
Esapamentul este inima ceasului i nu mparte doar timpul permi nd doar un singur dinte la un
moment dat pentru a "scpa", dar, de asemenea, creeaz puterea sau impulsul care mpinge
pendulul nainte i napoi. De la acest lucru vine sunetul "tic-toc". Aceste suprafe e sunt lovite de
mii de ori pe zi, de dinii de alam ai roii eapamentului. Murdria care se ncorporeaz n
suprafaa dinilor taie n cele din urm n suprafa a paletului ca o pil. Uzura aceasta ia multi ani
sa apar, dar este foarte frecvent pe ceasuri antice.
Uzura trebuie s fie ndeprtat i apoi lustruit. Acest lucru este realizat cu o serie de plci de
mirghel de diferite granulaii ntr-un mod care elimin cea mai mic cantitate de metal i
menine unghiurile originale. n cazul n care este ndeprtat prea mult metal sau unghiurile
schimbate paleii trebuie s fie reconfigurai sau ndoi i, pentru ca acestea s fie ajustate n mod
corespunztor odat ce acestea sunt puse napoi pe ceas.
Acest proces de resetare a unui eapament este pu in n eles de mul i care pretind a fi capabil
de a repara ceasuri, dar este vital pentru func ionarea corespunztoare a acestuia.

26

Prghiile ceasului
Acest lucru arat o prghie ciocan pe dreapta i o imagine diferit a pale ilor discuta i n ultima
seciune din partea stng.
Prefer s ndrept aceste prghii, deoarece acestea au fost adesea ndoite de la form de multe
ori n trecut de ctre reparatori anteriori.

Aceleai prghii ndreptate

Cu toate c acestea nu vor fi n starea lor final atunci cnd sunt instalate n ceas, mi d un loc
proaspt pentru a ncepe ndoirea lor ntr-o pozi ie corect de lucru.

Roile principale
Acestea sunt roile principalele (de mai jos), care transport puterea de la arcurile principalele
ale ceasului. Aceste roi dinate conin sistemul cu clichet, care re ine arcul nf urat atunci cnd
cheia de nfurare este activat.
Roata cu clichet (arata ca o lam de ferstru circular), n centru, trebuie s fie verificat pentru
a vedea c nici unul dintre dinii nu este deteriorat, iar clicurile trebuie s fie verificate pentru a
27

vedea c suprafeele lor sunt nc solide pentru a se angaja cu din ii clichetului n mod
corespunztor. n cazul n care nu sunt uzate prea grav suprafe ele care ac ioneaz din clicurile
pot fi pilite neted i niturile verificate pentru jocuri corespunztoare. n cazul n care un clic este
uzat prea ru, trebuie s fie nlocuit.
Dup ce acest lucru se realizeaz arcul clichetului , srm n form "c" pe care o vede i, este
ajustat pentru a aplica presiunea corespunztoare mpotriva clicul s-l mping n din i cu
clichet.

Arcurile principale
Arcul de pe partea de sus este un arc vechi slbit. O cauz principal c acesta este considerat
"setat/obosit". Dac punem acest arc napoi n ceasul va rula dar exist riscul ca ceasul s nu
opereaz o sptmn pe o singur nfurare.
Pentru comparaie, arcul principal pe partea de jos arat unul nou de aceea i rezisten i
lungime. Pentru c nu este "setat/obosit" se destinde ntr-un diametru mult mai mare.

Mecanismul deschis
nainte de asamblarea plcilor de ceas sunt de multe ori recur ate i fiecare pivot ters manual
i examinate pentru a fi sigur c nu exist nici o contaminare.
Aceasta este imaginea unui mecanism de ceas proaspt revizuit chiar nainte de instalarea
plcii superioare.
28

Restaurarea finalizat
Dup ce placa superioar este stabilit la pozi ie i toate pivoturile introduse n suprafe ele
lagrelor proaspte, trenul roilor de lovire trebuie s fie sincronizate n mod corespunztor i
prghiile i clichetul reglate corect. Ceasul este apoi uns cu ulei, ntors complet i indicatoarele,
testat la banc nainte de al instala n cutie. Ceasul este apoi testat pentru o sptmn, pentru a
se stabili c va funciona i suna pentru o durat de o sptmn ntreag. n acest timp, ceasul
este de asemenea reglat pentru a asigura cronometrarea corespunztoare.

Imaginea de altdat
29

In cazul in care ai uitat cum arta acest ceas nainte de restaurare, aici este amintirea de mai
jos.

Aici este un alt set de imagini nainte i dup a unui mecanism de ceas Seth Thomas i soneria
restaurate.Reinei cantitatea extrem de rugin n imaginea din partea stng.
Dac dorii o nou via restaurat vechiului ceas uzat ne da i un telefon!
Vezi nainte i Dup
restaurate.

pagini cu mai multe imagini dramatice cu mecanismul, cadranul i cutia

30

Weight Driven
Grandfather Clock
Owners Manual
http://www.masterclockrepair.com/ownersmanu
al.html
Note: The following information will apply to
almost all grandfather clocks made after 1960
by brands such as Baldwin, Bulova, Colonial,
Comitti of London, Daneker, Emperor, Ethan
Allen, Fancher, Hermle, Howard Miller,
Keininger, King Arthur, Mason and Sullivan,
Pearl, Piper, Ridgeway, Sligh and Trend among
others.
Clocks older than 1960, generally those prior to
1925, may very well operate with a different set
of rules, particularly when it comes to hand
setting. Regulating and winding are pretty
much the same for all clocks, regardless of age
or make.

Manualul
proprietarului de ceas
bunicul actionat de
greutate
http://www.masterclockrepair.com/ownersmanu
al.html
Not: Urmtoarele informaii se vor aplica la
aproape toate ceasurile bunicul facute dupa
1960 de ctre branduri, cum ar fi Baldwin,
Bulova, Colonial, COMITTI din Londra,
Daneker, Emperor, Ethan Allen, Fancher,
Hermle, Howard Miller, Keininger, King Arthur,
Mason i Sullivan, Pearl, Piper, Ridgeway,
Sligh si Trend, printre altele.

Ceasurile mai vechi dect 1960, n general,

cele nainte de 1925, se poate foarte bine
opera cu un set diferit de reguli, mai ales
atunci cnd vine vorba de setarea
indicatoarelor. Reglare i nfurarea sunt
destul de mult la fel pentru toate ceasurile,
This manual is a departure from the standard indiferent de vrst sau de fabricaie.
manual
produced
by
many
clock
manufacturers. I am providing you information
Anumite ceasuri au capriciile care cer o atenie
from the clockmakers point of view and will try
to give you insight into how and why these special. Dac vi sau dat informaii specifice
pentru ceas de ctre un reparator ceas de
functions operate as they do.
ncredere i cunotine, atunci este cel mai
Handling the Brass Components
bine s urmai sfatul lui sau a ei.
Some clocks have idiosyncrasies that demand
special attention. If you have been given
information specific to your clock by a trusted
and knowledgeable clock repairman then it is
best that you follow his or her advice.

Most modern clocks have brass weights,

chains, pendulums and dials. It is best to avoid
handling these parts directly in spite of the
lacquer coating that is present on most
models. This lacquer coating is mainly there to
keep the brass from tarnishing on its own; it is
not designed to protect it from the oil on our
hands
and
fingers
or
from
harsh
chemicals. When handling these components
it is best to put something between your hands
and the brass item. This can be a cloth, a
glove or a paper towel, it really doesnt matter.

31

Acest manual este o abatere de la manualul

standard, produs de muli productori de ceas.
Eu v furnizez informaii din punct de vedere al
ceasornicarul i voi ncerca s v oferi o
perspectiv asupra modului i n care aceste
funcii funcioneaz aa cum o fac.
Manevrarea componentelor din alam
Cele mai multe ceasuri moderne au greutile,
lanurile, pendulele i cadranul din alam. Cel

Winding
99.9% of all grandfather clocks are designed to
be wound once per week. This is done to help
the owner establish an easy winding
routine. Most of us live our lives by the week
so winding the clock on the same day each
week is an easy habit to start. The clock does
not care if you wind it every day or every other
day, if that is your preference, neither does it
care if the weights are wound up evenly or not
(some like the look of the weights in a stair
step pattern).

mai bine este s se evite manipularea acestor

pri n mod direct, n ciuda, stratului de lac,
care este prezent pe majoritatea modelelor.
Aceast acoperire cu lac este, n principal
acolo pentru a pstra alam de la ptarea pe
cont propriu; nu este proiectat s-l protejeze de
ulei de pe minile i degetele noastre sau de
produsele chimice dure. Atunci cnd se
manipuleaz aceste componente cel mai bine
este de a pune ceva ntre mini i elementul
de alam. Acest lucru poate fi o pnz, o
mnu sau un prosop de hrtie, ntr-adevr
nu conteaz.
Bobinarea
99,9% din toate ceasurile bunicul sunt
concepute pentru a fi nfurat o dat pe
sptmn. Acest lucru se face pentru a ajuta
proprietarul s stabileasc o rutin uoar de
nfurare. Cei mai muli dintre noi trim viaa
noastr sptmnal, astfel c nfurarea
ceasului n aceeai zi n fiecare sptmn
este un obicei uor de nceput. Ceasului nu-i
pas dac tu n fiecare zi sau n fiecare alt zi
l nfori, n cazul n care este preferina dvs.,
nici nu l intereseaz n cazul n care greut ile
sunt nfurate n sus n mod egal sau nu
(unele cum ar fi aspectul greutilor ntr-un
model cu trepte).

Chain Drive: If your weights hang from

chains then it will be necessary to pull the
chains (using a cloth or glove to avoid
handling the brass chains directly)straight
down once per week to move the weights
back to the top of the clock and start another
weeks run. Never lift the weight when
pulling the chain! Contrary to popular
opinion, this is not necessary or
desired. (See my article on Clock Myths) It
is best if the chains are not pulled so far that
the top of the weight hits the bottom of the
mechanism or the seat board on which it
sets. If you do this you are stressing the
chains and may very well be damaging the
tops of the weight shells as well. It is best to
stop with an inch or two to spare. Leaving a
little space here also allows for easy removal
of the weights should the need arise. If you
do not do this you will be unable to remove
the weights until it runs down a little. This
can be really inconvenient if your clock fails
to operate after winding.

Lanului de acionare: Dac greutile atrn de

lanuri, atunci va fi necesar pentru a trage
lanurile (folosind o crp sau mnu pentru a
se evita manipularea lanurilor de alam direct)
drept o dat n jos pe sptmn, pentru a
muta greutile napoi la partea de sus a
ceasului i nceputul altei sptmni pentru
funcionare. Nu ridicai niciodat greutatea
trgnd lanul! Contrar opiniei populare, acest
lucru nu este necesar sau dorit. (A se vedea
articolul meu pe ceas Mituri) Este cel mai bine
n cazul n care lanurile nu sunt trase att de
departe nct partea superioar a greut ii

If you forget to wind the clock the weights

will hit the bottom of the clock and the clock
will stop. It is best if you do not let this
happen. There is a chance in doing so that
the clocks chime or strike will jam and it will
32

be difficult to restart the clock.

lovete n partea de jos a mecanismului sau

placa scaunului pe care este fixat. Dac ve i
face acest lucru, insistnd asupra lanurilor
poate fi foarte bine duntoare pentru vrfurile
cochilii de greutate, de asemenea. Cel mai bine
este s se opreasc cu un inch sau doi de
rezerv. Lsnd un spaiu mic aici, de
asemenea, permite ndeprtarea uoar a
greutilor cnd apare necesitatea. Dac nu
facei acest lucru vei fi n imposibilitatea de a
elimina greutile pn cnd nu se ruleaz n
jos un pic. Acest lucru poate fi ntr-adevr
incomod n cazul n care ceasul nu
funcioneaz dup nfurare.
Dac uitai s nfurai, greutile ceasului vor
lovi partea de jos a ceasului i ceasul se va
opri. Este cel mai bine dac nu lsai s se
ntmple. Exist o ans n a face astfel nct
clopoel sau avertisment ceasul se va bloca i
va fi dificil pentru a reporni ceasul.

Always be mindful when pulling the chains

that the pendulum is not far from the
ascending weights. Bumping the pendulum
with the weights on their way up may cause
you a problem and the cost of a house call to
potentially reset a beat or replace a broken
suspension spring.

Cable Drive: If your weights hang on pulleys

it will be necessary to wind the clock using
the crank that came with it. Although it is
possible to wind the clock with a key, a crank
is the preferred method. Generally it is not
possible to wind a clock too high or too tight,
but as mentioned earlier, on weight driven
clocks it is usually best not to go all the way
to the very top. Many of the most modern
cable driven clocks will have a special set of
gears (Geneva stops) that stop the winding
process before there is any possibility of
winding too much cable onto the barrel
inside. However, these limits are set for the
movement only and do not take into count
different case styles. This means that the
clock may still allow the weight shell to come
into contact with part of the case
itself. Again, we do not want the weight to
go up high enough to hit anything. When
this happens we put too much stress on the
cable and we will not be able to remove the
weight if we need to. It is best to always
leave the pulley exposed. Do not wind it so
high that you are unable to actually see the
pulley.

ntotdeauna s fii ateni atunci cnd trgnd

lanurile pendulul nu este departe de greut ile
ascendente. Ciocnind pendulul cu greutile pe
drum n sus s-ar putea provoca o problem i
costa un apel de cas pentru a putea reseta o
btaie sau s se nlocuiasc un arc de
suspensie rupt.
Cablu de acionare: Dac greutile atrn pe
fulii va fi necesar pentru a nfura ceasul cu
ajutorul manivelei care a venit cu el. Dei este
posibil nfurarea ceasul cu o cheie, o
manivel este metoda preferat. n general, nu
este posibil s se nfoare un ceas prea mare
sau prea strmt, dar, aa cum am menionat
mai devreme, pe ceasuri acionate de greutate
este, de obicei, cel mai bine, nu pentru a
merge tot drumul spre foarte sus. Multe dintre
cele mai moderne ceasuri acionate prin cablu
vor avea un set special de roi dinate
(Geneva, opriri) care opresc procesul de
nfurare nainte de a exista vreo posibilitate
de a realiza nfurarea prea mult de cablu pe

Special Note: Most cable driven clocks do

not allow the weights to drop so far that they
hit the bottom of the case. In many
instances the weights will stop as far as 1224 inches from the bottom. What is
important is not how far the weights go down
but whether the clock runs a week on one
winding or not.
What Do I Do When I Am On Vacation: The
33

best thing to do if you are not going to be

home on winding day is to simply stop the
clock before you leave by reaching in to stop
the pendulum from swinging.

cilindru interior. Cu toate acestea, aceste limite

sunt stabilite numai pentru funcionare i nu iau
un numr diferit de stiluri de carcase.
Acest lucru nseamn c ceasul poate permite
n continuare a carcasei greutii s vin n
contact cu o parte a cutiei n sine. Din nou, noi
nu vrem ca greutatea s mearg n sus
suficient ridicat pentru a lovi ceva. Cnd se
ntmpl acest lucru ne-am pus prea mult
accent pe cablu i nu vom putea ndeprta
greutatea n cazul n care avem nevoie. Cel
mai bine este s lsai ntotdeauna scripei
expui. Nu nfurai att ridicat nct nu pute i
vedea de fapt scripeii.

Setting the Hands

There are a few basic rules regarding hand
setting. These are:
1. Use the minute hand only.
2. Never move the hour hand by itself to
set the clock.
3. Never move the minute hand while the
clock is chiming or striking.
The minute hand can be turned either
direction; clockwise or counter clockwise. If
you go clockwise it will be necessary to stop
at each quarter hour and let the clock chime
before advancing to the next quarter
hour. If, when going forward you hear the
click at the quarter hour and the clock does
not chime then it is okay to move to the next
quarter. Bear in mind that depending on
how well your clock is adjusted the clock
may not chime exactly on the quarter.

Not special: Cele mai multe ceasuri

acionate de cablu nu permit greutilor s
cad att de mult nct lovesc partea de jos a
carcasei. n multe cazuri, greutile se vor opri
n msura n care ar fi 12-24 inci de partea de
jos. Ceea ce este important nu este ct de jos
merg greutile, dar dac ceasul funcioneaz
o sptmn pe o nfurare sau nu.
Ce se poate face atunci cnd eu sunt n
vacan: Cel mai bun lucru de fcut, dac nu
vei fi acas n ziua de nfurare este de a opri
pur i simplu ceasul nainte de plecare, de ct
s se ajung la oprirea pendulului s oscileze.

It may be necessary to move slightly

beyond it before you hear the click that
releases the chime. If you go counter
clockwise, the clock will not normally chime
so there is no need to wait for anything;
simply go back to the correct time and your
done. After moving the hands backwards
you may hear the clock chime the wrong
chime. If this occurs, it means that it is out
of synch. For the clocks I am referring to in
this manual, the clock will resynchronize
itself. It will usually do this within an hour.

Setarea indicatoarelor
Exist cteva reguli de baz n ceea ce
privete setarea indicatoarelor. Acestea sunt:
1. Folosii numai minutarul.
2. Nu micai niciodat mna or de la sine
pentru a seta ceasul.
3. Nu micai niciodat mna minute n timp ce
ceasul sun sau lovete.
Minutarul poate fi rotit n direcia; sensul acelor
de ceasornic sau invers acelor de ceasornic.
Dac te duci n sens orar, va fi necesar s se
opreasc la fiecare sfert de or i lsai
semnalul sonor al ceasului nainte de a avansa

So then, next time the time change occurs

do not panic. When we spring forward
simply advance the minute hand clockwise,
stopping at each quarter before moving on to
the next. When we fall back, move the
minute hand backwards one hour. It is really
34

that simple. Do not do what so many people

do and move the hour hand forward or
backward one hour by itself. If you do this
the clock will strike wrong until you put the
hour hand back where it was.

la urmtorul sfert de or. n cazul n care,

atunci cnd merge mai departe cnd auzii un
clic pe sfert de or, iar ceasul nu sun, atunci
este bine s se mute n sfertul urmtor. inei
cont de faptul c, n funcie de ct de bine
ceasul este ajustat, ceasul nu poate suna
exact pe sfertul de or.

Regulating
As nice and expensive as most grandfather
clocks are they are not perfectly
accurate! This is true because they are
temperature sensitive. What runs accurately
in the summer will typically not run
accurately in the winter unless the
temperature in your house never
changes. The manufacturers know this is an
issue and that is why there is always a way
to compensate for these changes by
adjusting the pendulums length. The means
of compensating is done through the use of
the regulating nut that is normally found
underneath the round brass disc at the
bottom of the pendulum. Tightening the nut
or turning it to the right raises the
pendulums disc and will make the clock run
faster. Loosening the nut to the left will
lower the disc and slow the clock down.

Ar putea fi necesar s se deplaseze uor

dincolo de ea nainte de a auzi clicul care
elibereaz semnalul sonor. Dac te duci contra
acelor de ceas, ceasul nu va suna n mod
normal, astfel nct nu este nevoie s se
atepte ceva; pur i simplu du-te napoi la ora
corect i a fcut dumneavoastr. Dup ce sa
mutat indicatoarele n spate s-ar putea auzi
ceasul sunnd semnalul sonor greit. n cazul
n care se ntmpl acest lucru, nseamn c
acesta nu este "sincronizat". Pentru ceasurile
la care fac referire n acest manual, ceasul se
va resincronizeaz. Aceasta va face lucrul, de
obicei n decurs de o or.
Aa c, atunci, cnd data viitoare schimbarea
de timp se produce nu intra in panica. Cnd
ne-am "arcuit" nainte pur i simplu, n avans,
n sens orar indicatorul de minute, oprindu-se
la fiecare sfert de or nainte de a trece la
urmtorul sfert. Cnd "cdem" n spate, muta i
minutarul napoi o or. Este ntr-adevr att de
simplu. Nu face ceea ce face att de muli
oameni i pentru a muta indicatorul de or
nainte sau napoi cu o or de la sine. Dac
vei face acest lucru ceasul va suna greit
pn cnd nu puni indicatorul or napoi unde
era.

Generally speaking one complete turn will

make a difference of approximately two
minutes per day. The very specific words in
italics in the previous sentence are crucial to
understand if you desire your clock to run as
accurately as possible. First of all we are
talking about a complete turn of the nut, not
a twist of the finger. The next important
word is approximately. It is impossible to
come up with one rule that will apply to all
clocks so the phrase one turn equals
approximately
two
minutes
is
a
generalization or a starting point. Now we
must stress per day. For example, fourteen
minutes fast per day is not the same as
fourteen minutes fast per week. Fourteen
minutes fast per week is only two minutes
per day (14 minutes divided by 7 days
equals two minutes per day).

Reglementare
La fel de frumoase i de scumpe ca cele mai
multe ceasuri bunicul, ele nu sunt perfect
corecte! Acest lucru este adevrat, deoarece
acestea sunt sensibile la temperatur. Cele
care ruleaz cu exactitate, de obicei vara, nu

Therefore, here is the process you should

follow.
1. Set the hands on the clock according to
35

a clock you know is accurate.

2. Set the hands as accurately as
possible. For example, there is a significant
difference between nine and half minutes
after ten and nine minutes after ten.
3. Wait twenty four hours.
4. Determine how fast or slow your clock is
by comparing it to the same clock you set it
against.
5. Using that information make the
appropriate number of turns (according to
the rule stated above) of the adjusting nut in
the correct direction. Up speeds it up, down
slows it down.
6. Reset the hands accurately (using the
same clock again).
7. Wait another twenty four hours.
8. Keep repeating the above process until
you achieve success. This will generally
take several days to a week.

vor rula cu acuratee n timpul iernii cu excep ia

cazului n care temperatura din casa ta nu se
schimb niciodat. Productorii tiu c acest
lucru este o problem i de aceea exist
ntotdeauna o modalitate de a compensa
aceste schimbri prin ajustarea lungimii
pendulului. Mijloacele de compensare se fac
prin utilizarea piuliei de reglare, care se
gsete n mod normal sub discul de alam
rotund n partea inferioar a pendulului.
Piulia prin strngere sau rotire spre dreapta
ridic discul pendulului i va face s ruleze
ceasul mai rapid. Slbind piulia la stnga se
va cobor discul i poate ncetini ceasul.
n general vorbind o tur complet va face o
diferen de aproximativ dou minute pe zi.
Cuvintele foarte specifice cu caractere cursive
din fraza anterioar sunt eseniale pentru a
nelege dac dorii ca ceasul s ruleze ct mai
exact posibil. In primul rand este vorba despre
o tur complet a piuliei, nu o rsucire a
degetului. Urmtorul cuvnt important este de
aproximativ. Este imposibil s vin cu o
singur regul care se va aplica la toate
ceasurile astfel nct expresia "o tur, este
egal cu aproximativ dou minute" este o
generalizare sau un punct de plecare. Acum
trebuie s subliniem pe zi. De exemplu,
paisprezece minute mai repede pe zi nu este
acelai lucru cu paisprezece minute mai
repede pe sptmn. Paisprezece minute
mai repede pe sptmn este de numai dou
minute pe zi (14 minute mprit la 7 zile este
egal cu dou minute pe zi).

After you have let the clock run a while

without regulating you may notice that over
the course of time the clock has gained or
lost a few minutes. It is important to
remember that the clock did not do this
overnight but it took several days or more for
a small difference to accumulate into that
greater gain or loss. You must divide this
number of minutes off by however many
days have passed since you set it last and
adjust accordingly.
Once you have achieved success in
regulating your clock you must remember
that in a few months you may very well have
to regulate again. As the season changes
so will your heating or cooling patterns which
in turn affect the clocks accuracy.
Changing the Chimes- Using the Chime
Selector

Prin urmare, aici este procesul pe care ar

trebui s-l urmezi.
1. Setai indicatoarele ceasului n funcie de ct
tii c ceasul este corect.
2. Setai indicatoarele ct mai exact posibil. De
exemplu, exist o diferen semnificativ ntre
nou i zece minute i jumtate, dup nou
minute i dup zece.

Your clock may or may not give you the

ability to change the chime on your
clock. Some play the Westminster chime
only and cannot be changed. Many of the
more expensive grandfather clocks have
what is called a Triple Chime. This simply
means that the clock will play three different
songs. If you have this feature then there
36

is normally a lever that protrudes through a

slot in the dial. 99% of the time this slot or
lever will be near the number three. A few
have the selecting lever above the number
twelve or below the number six. There are
also some clocks, normally more expensive
ones that have a rotary dial (circular dial) for
chime selecting and or silencing. When
these are present there are normally two of
them toward the top of the dial, one on the
right and one on the left. Other clocks have
the lever for chime selecting inside the case
and can only be reached by opening a side
door or removing a panel. These levers are
rarely marked.

3. Ateptai douzeci i patru de ore.

4. Se determin ct de repede sau lent este
ceasul prin comparaie cu acelai ceas care-l
setai.
5. Folosind aceste informaii faci numrul
corespunztor de rotaii (conform regulii artat
mai sus) a piuliei de reglare n direcia
corect. Mrete viteza n sus, n jos
ncetinete.
6. Resetai indicatoarele cu acuratee (folosind
din nou acelai ceas).
7. Ateptai nc douzeci i patru de ore.
8. Repeta procedeul de mai sus, pn cnd
atingei succesul. Aceasta va dura mai multe
zile, n general, la o sptmn.

You may change the chime as often as you

like. However, it is best if you change the
chime just after a chime and not just before
a chime. There is a slight chance that in
doing so just before a chime you may
jam the chime train and cause it not to
function. It is best to do it in the ten minute
period after the chime and not the five
minute period before the chime.

Dupa ce ai lsat ceasul s ruleze un timp fr

a-l regla ai putea observa c pe parcursul
timpului, ceasul a ctigat sau a pierdut cteva
minute. Este important s ne amintim c
ceasul nu a fcut acest lucru peste noapte, dar
au durat cteva zile sau mai mult pentru o
diferen mic pentru a acumula n acel ctig
mai mare sau pierdere. Trebuie sa mpri i
acest numr de minute, n afara de toate
acestea, la mai multe zile care au trecut de
cnd ai setat ultima dat i modificai n
consecin

When moving the chime selector lever you

should be able to feel the lever fall into a
groove that you cannot see. Do not try to
line up the lever directly with the words
printed on the dial near the slot (or around
the rotary dial) the lever protrudes
through. The words on the dial tell you the
order of the grooves the lever will fall into to.

Schimbarea soneriei- cu ajutorul

selectorului de sonerie
Ceasul tu poate sau nu poate da posibilitatea
de a schimba semnalul sonor al ceasului.
Unele imit dangtul de clopot de la
Westminster i numi pot fi modificate.
Multe dintre cele mai scumpe ceasuri bunic au
ceea ce se numete "Tripla sonerie". Acest
lucru nseamn pur i simplu c ceasul va juca
trei "cntece" diferite. Dac avei aceast
caracteristic, atunci exist n mod normal, o
prghie care iese printr-o fant n cadran. 99%
din timp aceast fant sau manet va fi
aproape de numrul trei.

Silencers
Not all clocks have silencers on them. Since
the
mid
eighties
however
clock
manufacturers began to catch on that even
though people love the chime on their clock
they want to have a way to control it. Now
almost every clock made has a silencer on
it. If your clock has a triple chime feature the
silencer is frequently another groove in the
37

travel of that same lever. If you have a

single chime clock the silencer is usually
near the number three on the dial. There are
some clocks that place it near the number
twelve or number six and still others have a
metal rod that protrudes below the clock face
(almost always on the right side) into the
area where the weights hang.
If the lever protrudes through a slot in the
dial there is usually an indicator on the dial
around the slot to tell you which way to push
the lever in order to silence the clock. If your
silencer protrudes into the weight area below
the dial pushing the lever up usually is the
silent position and down is the chime
position.

Cteva au prghia de selecie de mai sus, la

numrul doisprezece sau sub numrul ase.
Exist, de asemenea, unele ceasuri, n mod
normal, cele mai scumpe, care au un cadran
rotativ (cadran circular) pentru selectarea i a
dangtului de clopot sau reducere la tcere.
Atunci cnd acestea sunt prezente n mod
normal exist dou dintre ele spre partea de
sus a cadranului, unul pe dreapta i unul pe
stnga. Alte ceasuri au prghia de selectare a
dangt de clopot n interiorul carcasei i poate
fi atins doar prin deschiderea unei u i laterale
sau ndeprtarea unui panou. Aceste prghii
sunt rareori marcate.
Putei schimba dangtul de clopot ori de cte
ori dorii. Cu toate acestea, cel mai bine este
dac schimbai dangtul de clopot doar dup
un dangt de clopot i nu doar nainte de un
semnal sonor. Exist o mic ans de a face
acest lucru chiar nainte de un semnal sonor i
s-ar putea bloca trenul dangtului de clopot i
poate cauza ca aceasta s nu funcioneze. Cel
mai bine este s se fac n intervalul de zece
minute, dup semnalul sonor i nu n perioada
de cinci minut nainte de dangtul de clopot.
Atunci cnd se deplaseaz maneta selectorului
de dangt de clopot ar trebui s fi capabil s
simi cderea prghiei ntr-o canelur pe care
nu o putei vedea. Nu ncercai s aliniai
prghia direct cu cuvintele imprimate pe
cadran n apropierea fantei (sau n jurul
selectorul rotativ), prghia exteriorizata.

As mentioned earlier, some clocks will have

what are called rotary dials for changing the
chime or silencing the clock. These smaller
dials are on the left and right above the
numbers ten and two. These dials will be
clearly marked to tell you where to move the
pointer to perform the action you desire.
In most cases when you silence the clock,
the outer weights (the extreme left and right
weight) will not descend while the clock is
silenced. This gives the appearance that the
middle weight is dropping too fast when in
reality it is dropping normally it is the other
two that are not moving. This is
normal. The weights will begin to drop
normally once the chime is turned back on.
Some clocks have a very different silencing
mechanism. If you have two levers on your
clock, one near the number three and one
near the number nine then it is highly likely
that your clock will react differently than just
mentioned above. The purpose of the two
levers is to allow the owner to silence only
the chime, only the strike or both, the other
type previously mentioned always silences
both. It is important to understand that
chiming and striking are two different
functions.

Amortizoarele de sunet
Nu toate ceasurile au amortizoare de sunet pe
ele. De la mijlocul anilor optzeci ns
productorii de ceas a nceput s se prind de
faptul c, chiar dac oamenii iubesc clopotul
ceasului lor, doresc s aib o modalitate de al
controla. Acum, aproape fiecare ceas fcut are
un amortizor pe el. n cazul n care ceasul are
o caracteristic triplu dangt de clopot,
amortizorul este frecvent o alt "canelur", n

The chime is the melody or song you hear

38

and is driven by the right weight.

cursa aceeai prghii. Dac avei un singur

dangt de clopot pe
ceas amortizorul de zgomot este de obicei
aproape de numrul trei pe cadran. Exist
unele ceasuri care le plaseaz lng numrul
doisprezece sau numr de ase i altele au o
tij de metal care iese n afar sub faa de
ceas (aproape ntotdeauna pe partea dreapta)
n zona n care atrn greutile.

The strike is the deeper, repeated sound that

occurs on the hour only after the chime is
complete and is driven by the left weight.
Because the chime is what trips the strike if
you want to silence the chime but not the
strike you must allow the chime gear train to
operate
without
any
sound
being
produced. Therefore the method used here
is different. What this type of silencer does
is disengage the hammers but not the gear
train itself. When silencing only the chime
but not the strike the chime gear train
operates normally but no hammers are lifted
to produce the chime tones. When the
chime completes itself it trips the strike
function and allows the strike hammers to lift
and drop and produce the strike sounds.

Dac maneta iese n afar printr-o fant n

cadranul de acolo este, de obicei, un indicator
pe cadran n jurul fantei pentru a v spune n
ce mod mpingei prghia pentru a opri ceasul.
n cazul n care amortizorul tu de zgomot
ptrunde n zona de greutate sub butonul
rotativ mpingnd maneta n sus, de obicei,
este poziia tcut i n jos este poziia dangt
de clopot.
Aa cum am menionat mai devreme, unele
ceasurile vor avea ceea ce se numesc cadrane
rotative pentru schimbarea semnalul sonor sau
un ceas cu amortizare de zgomot. Aceste
"cadrane" mai mici, sunt pe stnga i pe
dreapta mai sus de numerele zece i doi.
Aceste cadrane vor fi marcate n mod clar s
v spun unde s mutai cursorul pentru a
efectua aciunea pe care dorii.

For the opposite to occur a similar thing

happens. The chiming gear train is allowed
to lift and drop the hammers producing the
chime tones and when it is complete the
strike train begins to operate. But this time
the strike hammers are disengaged,
therefore no strike sound. What will be
noticeably different with this system is that
regardless of whether you have silenced just
the chime, just the strike or both, the weights
will drop normally.

n cele mai multe cazuri, atunci cnd tace

ceasul, greutile exterioare (greutile din
extrema stnga i dreapta), nu vor cobor n
timp ce ceasul este redus la tcere. Acest lucru
d impresia c greutatea mijlocie cade prea de
repede, atunci cnd, n realitate, ea este n
cdere, n mod normal celelalte dou, care nu
sunt n micare. Asta este normal. Greutile
vor ncepe s cad n mod normal, odat ce
semnalul sonor este pornit din nou.

Another wrinkle in the silencing game is that

sometimes on the number three side there
will be a fifth position to the chime lever. You
will have the three chime positions (this type
of silencer is only available on triple chime
clocks) a 4/4 silent position and a silent
position. The 4/4 silent position is telling you
that it will not chime the quarters but will still
strike the hours (unless you have silenced
the hours with the lever at the number nine
position). The silent position reacts like the
first one mentioned.

Anumite ceasuri au un mecanism de reducere

la tcere foarte diferit. Dac avei dou prghii
pe ceas, unul lng numrul trei i unul lng
39

It shuts off both chime and strike with one

lever and neither the right or left weight will
descend.

numrul de nou, atunci este foarte probabil ca

ceasul va reaciona n mod diferit fa de cele
menionate mai sus. Scopul acestor dou
prghii este de a permite proprietarului s
reduc la tcere doar clopotul, numai soneria,
sau ambele, cellalt tip menionat anterior
ntotdeauna reduce la tcere ambele. Este
important s nelegem c sunetele/ clopotul i
izbitoare/soneria sunt dou funcii diferite.

the right or left weight will descend.

Este important s se neleag c dangtul de

clopot i grev sunt dou funcii diferite.

Clopoelul este melodia sau melodia pe care o

auzi i este acionat de greutatea din dreapta.
Dangatul este melodia sau cntecul pe care l
auzi i este condus de greutatea dreapta.
Greva este sunetul mai profund, care se repet
care apare pe ora numai dup semnalul sonor
este complet i este determinat de greutatea
stng.
Greva este mai profund, sunet repetat care
apare pe ora doar dup ce dangatul este
complet i este determinat de greutatea
stng.
Deoarece dangt de clopot este cel ce
declaneaz greva n cazul n care dorii s
reduc la tcere semnalul sonor, dar nu greva
pe care trebuie s permit trenului angrenaj
dangt de clopot s funcioneze fr a fi
produs nici un sunet. Prin urmare, metoda
utilizat aici este diferit. Ceea ce acest tip de
amortizor de zgomot nu este de a decupla
ciocanele, dar nu trenul de roi n sine. Atunci
cnd numai sub tcere, dar nu dangt de
clopot greva trenul angrenaj dangt de clopot
funcioneaz normal, dar nu ciocane sunt
ridicate pentru a produce tonuri dangt de
clopot. Atunci cnd "dangt de clopot" se
completeaz declaneaz funcia grev i
permite ciocanele grev pentru a ridica i fixa
i s produc sunetele greva.

40

Pentru opusul s apar un lucru similar se

ntmpl. Sunetelor Trenul de viteze este
lsat s se ridice i fixa ciocanele care produc
tonurile dangt de clopot i cnd acesta este
complet trenul greva ncepe s funcioneze.
Dar, de data aceasta ciocanele grev sunt
decuplate, prin urmare, nici un sunet grev.
Cum va fi net diferit cu acest sistem este c,
indiferent dac ai redus la tcere doar
dangatul, doar greva, sau ambele, greutile
vor cdere n mod normal.
Un alt rid n joc este c, uneori, reducere la
tcere pe partea numrul trei va avea loc o
poziie a cincea la prghia dangt de clopot.
Vei avea cele trei poziii de dangt de clopot
(acest tip de amortizor este disponibil numai pe
ceasuri triple dangt de clopot), o poziie de
"4/4 tcut" i o poziie "tcut". Poziia de tcut
4/4 v spune c nu va dangt de clopot
sferturi, dar va lovi n continuare ore (cu
excepia cazului ai redus la tcere ore cu
maneta n poziia numrul nou). Poziia
"tcut" reacioneaz la fel ca prima menionat.
Ea se oprete ambele dangt de clopot i
grev, cu o prghie i nici dreapta sau
greutatea la stnga va cobor.

It is important to understand that chime and strike are two different functions = Este important s
se neleag c dangt de clopot i grev sunt dou func ii diferite.
It is important to understand that the chime and the strike are two different functions = Este
important s se neleag c semnalul sonor i greva sunt dou func ii diferite.
It is important to understand that chiming and striking are two different functions = Este
important s se neleag c Sunetelor i izbitoare sunt dou func ii diferite.

41

Chiming = Sunetelor / trage clopotele

striking = lovire / izbitor

the chime = dangt

the strike = grev

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

http://www.masterclockrepair.com/faq.html
Welcome to my Frequently Asked Questions section. This page contains answers to questions
not only about me but also about clocks in general. I appreciate your interest and hope that you
find what you need below. If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to ask.

List of Questions:
How did you get started in clock repair?
How did you learn clock repair?
Did you receive any further training?
Tell me about your clock repair experience.
What does it mean to be certified?
Why are you called a clockmaker if you do not make clocks?
Is my clock worth repairing?
Should I replace my worn clock dial?
Should I refinish my clock case?
Why is my modern clock worn out already?
Which brand of new grandfather clock is the best to buy?

How did you get started in clock repair?

42

This is without a doubt, the question I am asked most frequently. So, for all who are interested, I
am happy to give the "long" answer here. Like I heard someone say once, "I'll be brief, no matter
how long it takes."
I was born in Columbus in 1960. My father was in the Air Force stationed at what was then
called Lockbourne Air Force Base. Being a military family we moved quite a bit. After moves to
several parts of California, New York, andLouisiana, my father retired in 1972 and we moved
back to Ohio, which was always considered our home.
I graduated from Groveport Madison High School in 1978 in the top 15% of my class. I had
every intention of going on to college in the fall. I was contemplating architecture or accounting
as a career. Life, however, had a different, and in my opinion, better plan. I took a summer job
with a local clock retail store where I delivered and installed grandfather clocks as well as doing
stock work, etc. Fall came and went and yet I continued to work at my "summer" job. I guess I
enjoyed what I was doing because winter, spring, summer and fall kept coming and going until
before I knew it three years had passed. My "career" as a clock delivery boy was going nowhere
fast. During this time I married my high school sweetheart, Candy.
Fortunately for me, early in 1981 I was offered the chance to begin training under the
clockmaker who worked for the retail store that employed me. I must admit that I did not grow up
dreaming of becoming a clockmaker, but the idea was fascinating. I always enjoyed working with
my hands. My interest in art, model building and history seemed to dovetail very well into a
career in clock repair. Not to over romanticize it, but I have always felt that clock repair is an art
form, especially when restoring a well made antique movement. A detail oriented mind
necessary to be a good model builder has been a real advantage. Also, many of the clocks I was
to repair, being antiques, added an historic aspect to what I would be doing. With these things in
mind it did not take long to decide.

How did you learn clock repair?

In May of 1981 I began an apprenticeship that was to last for five years. During this time I
learned all aspects of the repair of grandfather clocks, striking and chiming wall and mantle
clocks, cuckoos and anniversary clocks, whether antique or modern. I continued to work with
my teacher until 1992. Because of this there was always someone there to correct me if
necessary and help me when I needed it. Even though the apprenticeship was over after five
years, the training never really ends.

Did you receive any further training?

I eventually left my employment with the clockmaker who trained me and set off to begin my
own business. In 1994 Master Clock Repair was born. Soon after this, instead of thinking I had
learned all there was to know about clock repair I began to seek out ways to continue my

43

education. I believed that I had already received excellent training, but I reasoned that if I did not
expose myself to other clockmakers I would never know what I didn't know! My first stop was to
renew my membership with two clock related organizations, th eNAWCC (National Association
of Watch and Clock Collectors) and AWCI(American Watchmakers Clockmakers Institute). The
NAWCC is geared more towards the collector and the clock historian, where as AWCI's main
focus is to serve the working professional and enhance the skills of all who practice either trade.
(AWCI welcomes clock and watchmakers in all skill ranges.) Both of these organizations send
out informative publications each month, with articles on clock histories and proper repair
procedures and tips. Along with these publications I stay current by reading major new clock
repair books. By exposing myself regularly to this material I am able to compare and sometimes
contrast my techniques with those of others.
Between 1995 and 2010 I attended five different continuing education seminars, at my expense,
sponsored by AWCI. Each time I registered I wondered whether it would be worth my time to go
but each time I was glad I attended. Most of what was taught I already knew, but there was
enough new "revelation" to make it worthwhile each and every time. In addition to these two day
courses I have also attended three short courses at each of seven national conventions I have
attended and have taught at two of them.

Tell me about your clock repair experience.

From the time I entered the trade in 1978 and up to 2011, I conservatively estimate that I have
set up, repaired, restored or serviced over 33,000 clocks, including having made over 18,500
house calls. I have repaired all types and makes of antique clocks, from Early American and
English tall case clocks to Howard Banjo's, from Chelsea Ship's Bell clocks to Vienna Regulators
and from the common modern grandfather clock movement to the large antique, high
quality tubular bell clocks by Winterhalder, Herschede and others. I have restored 250 year old
Morbiers as well as clocks with wooden movements made in the early 1800's. I have been an
authorized service agent for Howard Miller the whole time I have been in business.

What does it mean to be certified?

Certification is obtained from The American Watchmakers Clockmakers Institute, the premier
trade association for working professional watchmakers and clockmakers. As of July 2010,
there are approximately 137 clockmakers nationwide who have obtained certification through
this organization. There are only six, including myself, currently working in Ohio.
Over the last five years (2005-2010) I have served on the Education Committee at AWCI. Only
experienced, professional, full time Certified Clockmakers in good standing were selected to
serve on this committee. During this time we wrote the first ever Standards and Practices

44

Document detailing the proper methods for clock repair. Once this document was complete we
developed a new test based on these standards. The new certification title is "Certified
Clockmaker of the Twenty-First Century" or CC21 for short. The title was changed so that there
would be different title to show which certification a person holds. After completing the work on
this test I was awarded that very designation.
For much more detail on certification see our What is Certification page.

Why are you called a clockmaker if you do not make

clocks?
Many years ago if you wanted to buy a clock you could not go to the local clock store. There
weren't any! You went to the local clockmaker and commissioned him to make one for you! Prior
to 1800 clocks were not made until someone had already agreed to pay for it!
Quite naturally, if you already owned a clock that was not working properly you would take it to
the "clockmaker" to have it repaired.
Out of tradition, even today when there is no need for clocks to be made individually, the person
who repairs clocks is still called a "clockmaker".

Is my clock worth repairing?

I cannot answer this question specifically, since each clock and clock owner is different, but I
can share with you, what I feel is the best way to come to a decision.
There are two kinds of clocks we will consider here. The first type is a clock that has no
emotional value to a person at all; it is simply a functioning clock that no longer works. In this
case, the replacement value of the piece should factor into the decision. If the clock is going to
cost as much or more to repair than it is to replace, you might as well replace it. An honest
clockmaker will inform his customer when this is the case.
The other kind of clock is one that has either been passed down to its current owner through a
family member, the current owner intends to pass it on to their children or the clock holds some
special sentiment or meaning to the individual. In this case the most important factor is not its
replacement value, but its emotional or sentimental value. Because this type of clock is "one of a
kind" and essentially irreplaceable, it is well worth whatever the cost of a proper repair would be.
Most of the time when dealing with a quality clock, even a complete overhaul of the clock
movement is going to cost less than the clock's actual value. On some of the more common
antique clocks the cost will frequently come very close to or perhaps be a little more than its
actual value and the more unusual or rare pieces will have a repair cost that will fall well below.
45

Unless the clock has been purchased for "investment" reasons or for resale, the clock's
emotional value should be considered first.
Beware of those clockmakers who feel it necessary to inflate unrealistically the value of the
clocks brought in for repair in order to justify their repair costs. It should not be necessary to do
this. If the repair is being done in a proper manner by a professionally trained repairman whom
you trust, and you love your clock, it is well worth the cost regardless of what its resale value
might be.

Should I replace my worn clock dial?

Many early American clocks had dials that were nothing more than a printed piece of paper
glued to a metal dial pan. As these paper dials aged many of them have become extremely dirty
and or worn badly.

Many times the customer will ask whether anything can be done about this and if it will affect the
clock's value. The first thing I do is ask them if they are planning to sell the clock. If they are
not, then the value of the clock after a dial replacement is really not a factor.

In the case of most common clocks, if the value of the clock is an important consideration in
making the decision to replace or not, I will usually tell them that they have lost either way. If the
clock's dial is in bad enough condition to consider a replacement then some of the clock's value
is lost already. Whether the dirty, badly worn dial is left in place or the dial is replaced, when it
comes time to sell the clock, the purchaser will likely want to pay less either way. If the
purchaser is an investment style collector he will be less interested either way because he will
only be looking for clocks in original and mint condition.

Therefore, unless the clock is rare or has great antique value I tell them they should do what
they think will please them the most when they look up at their clock sitting on the shelf or
hanging on the wall.
For examples of paper dials that have been replaced, painted dials that have been restored or
metal dials that have been refinished look at my Before and After page for Clock Dials.

Should I refinish my antique clock case?

46

The answer to this question is essentially the same as the last one. However, I'll add this. Many
people now watch the "Antique Roadshow" on TV. They have heard the appraiser's comments
about how a particular item's value has been diminished due to refinishing. This certainly can be
true. A very rare piece is often worth more even if the original finish is in very bad condition.
Notice I said very rare! Most clocks that people are bringing in for repair and considering the
"refinish question" have clocks that are only worth several hundreds of dollars and although
quite old are not rare at all. Frequently, the antique furniture in question on the "Antique
Roadshow" is worth thousands and thousands of dollars, not a few hundred.

For most of my customers, the sentimental value far out weighs any antique value. Therefore
they are repairing, refinishing and or replacing dials for their personal satisfaction, not for some
future investment return.

Each clock owner must decide this question for themselves. I never suggest that a customer
should refinish or not refinish. I give them the information and options and let them decide.
For examples of clock cases that have been cleaned and or refinished please look at
my Before and After page for Clock Cases.

Why is my modern clock worn out already?

Many clock owners are shocked to find out that their fifteen to twenty-five year old clock with a
German made movement is worn out already. I have even seen a few that have worn
themselves out after only seven or eight years. Fortunately this is rather rare. Most of the
modern era clocks that I find myself having to overhaul or replace fall into the other age range.

There are two main reasons why this becomes necessary. The first reason is that many clock
owners neglect to properly maintain their clocks. My recommendation is that this be done about
every three years. You should not wait for the clock to fail before you think of having it serviced.
The longer the clock runs without lubrication the more wear will occur.

The second and perhaps biggest reason is, "They just don't make them like they used to."
Everyone gets tired of hearing this but it is true for clocks just like it is for many other mechanical
items. It hurts more when it comes to clocks because a great number of clocks produced long
ago were built to last 100 years or more. In this modern age the consumer's demand for lower
47

prices has caused the large clock manufacturers to find ways to produce clocks for less
money. Because the large clock case manufacturers are the biggest customers of the
movement manufacturers they are able set the price they are willing to pay. After all, they are
buying thousands of movements at a time. Once the case maker sets a price the movement
maker must find a way to produce them in a way that remains profitable for him. In order to do
this he may use cheaper material, whether it is brass or steel and sometimes plastic to make the
various components for the clock movements. This results in decreased durability.

In spite of this, these modern German movements are still some of the best being produced
today and the cost of repair or replacement is normally well below the cost of replacing the entire
clock, case and all. Because of this, most of the key-wound and weight driven clocks being
produced today will still be around for along time to come as they are passed on to future
generations.

Which brand of new grandfather clock is the best to buy?

For a more detailed answer to this question be sure to read my full article called "How to Buy".

The quick answer is that no brand is necessarily better than the others. Within a given price
range the differences will be minimal. The reason this is true is because the various different
brands are for the most part using essentially the same quality of movements in their
cases. Where the difference usually occurs is in the quality of the cabinetry. In the right price
range (usually $2000 and up) any clock made by any manufacturer will usually have a quality
case.

Spending more money on a clock does not mean that you get a clock that will last longer. What
you get is a nicer case finish, more expensive wood and or inlays, beveled glass, gold trim,
better quality dials, larger fancier pendulum, engraved weight shells, lights, more movement
features etc. The durability of the mechanism itself may be marginally better but not enough to
make it the most important consideration. The larger movements in these clocks are often a
sight to behold and look far better than some of the smaller ones. However, also remember that
when it comes time to replace that movement the cost of doing so will be much higher. Do not
buy a clock without knowing that you will have to replace the movement eventually, usually in
the 20-30 year range.

Unfortunately there are far fewer manufacturers to choose from then there was 20 years

48

ago. Many clock companies have either quit manufacturing or have gone out of business all
together. If you go shopping for a clock locally chances are all you are going to see is Howard
Miller and maybe Ridgeway (Ridgeway is owned by Howard Miller). Generally, these are good
clocks, but it will also be what everyone else has.

What cities do you serve?

For the benefit of internet search engines I answer the above question. Most of my business is
from the Central Ohio area but I have repaired clocks from other states as well that have either
been mailed to me or brought on special trips. I have even made house calls
to Kentucky and West Virginia. Master Clock Repair serves Arlington, Ashley, Athens and
Ashville, Ohio. Master Clock Repair serves Bellefontaine, Bexley, Bremen and Buckeye
Lake, Ohio. Master Clock Repair serves Circleville, Canal Winchester, Cambridge, Coshocton,
Centerburg and Chillicothe, Ohio. Master Clock Repair serves Dublin, Delaware and Dayton,
Ohio Master Clock Repair serves Granville, Groveport, Grandview, Gahanna and Galena, Ohio.
Master Clock Repair serves Hebron, Heath and Hilliard, Ohio. Master Clock Repair serves
Logan, Lancaster and London, Ohio. Master Clock Repair serves Mount Vernon, Marysville and
Marion, Ohio. Master Clock Repair serves Newark, New Albany and New Lexington, Ohio.
Master Clock Repair serves Obetz and Ostrander,Ohio. Master Clock Repair serves Powell,
Pickerington and Plain City, Ohio. Master Clock Repair serves Somerset, Sunbury, Sugar Grove,
Springfield and South Bloomfield, Ohio. Master Clock Repair serves Worthington, Westerville,
West Jefferson, Washington Court House, Whitehall and Waldo, Ohio. Master Clock Repair
serves Reynoldsburg, Thornville, Johnstown and Zanesville,Ohio.

Arta de a repara ceas

http://www.masterclockrepair.com/theartofclockrepair.html
Pentru unele ceasornicarii obtinerea ceasul sa functioneze este singura lor preocupare. Pentru
exemple de acest spirit stabilit vezi Galeria ruinii paginii. Pentru alte ceasornicari, cum ar fi
Michael, exist o ncercare de a efectua reparaii nu numai modul cel mai durabil , dar ,
de asemenea , ntr - un mod viclean. Fie c este vorba de desen, pictura, construirea dekituri

49

de modele sau repararea ceasuri de personalitate a lui Michael apleac spre detaliu, art i
lund o mare mndrie n tot ceea ce face. Pentru exemple ale unora dintre hobby - urile sale du
- te la Vezi Mike pagina. Mai jos sunt cteva exemple de lucru pe care le - a efectuat , care
prezint acest concept.
Micrile destul de

Englez dubl Micarea Fuse

Din pcate, eu nu pot lua credit pentru gravura pe aceast mi care frumoas, dar eu pot lua

50

credit pentru a se asigura arta cele mai bune n timpul procesului de revizie.

Englez dubl Micarea Fuse

Aici este o vedere n interiorul aceleiai micri de ceas. Nu este minunat?
51

Maneta de fabricaie

Michael a primit un ceas pentru repara ii, care lipsea sistemul de prghii care a activat func ia de
lovire. Fara nici un model de a lucra de la ea ar fi fost foarte dificil de a nlocui ceea ce
lipsea. Din fericire, el a fost capabil s localizeze un exemplu de prghiile care lipsesc de la un
prieten care a fost suficient mil de el s i mprumute. O dat ce le-a avut el a fost capabil s
mearg cu privire la sarcina de a face un set de nlocuiri.Vechile manetele sunt localizate n
mijlocul imaginii de mai sus i cele noi sunt la exterior. n primul rnd fierstraiele a trebuit s fie
fcut pe strung i apoi s-au adugat firele suplimentare care ies n afar din "de baz" arbor la
unghiurile corespunztoare.
nlocuire adunare palet

Aceast imagine arat trei lucruri. Imaginea de sus este un palet de colectare deteriorat. Este
dificil de a vedea, dar partea a paletei n apropierea gurii ptrat este aproape rupt

52

afar.Imaginea de mijloc este materia prima am comandat de la o cas de aprovizionare, pentru

a ncepe proiectul cu i a treia imagine prezinta palet de colectare finalizat. Puteti vedea prin
diferena dintre a doua i a treia imagine pe care o mare parte din materiale a trebuit s fie
scoase din piesa "gol", iar gaura rotund existent a trebuit s fie depus de mn ntr-o gaur
ptrat.

colectarea de paleti
Aici este un alt exemplu. Paletul de colectare de pe stnga nu este original, dar cel pe care
unele reparator anterioare ncropit. nc o dat cu ajutorul piesei de gol n mijloc, Michael a
nceput s elimine materialul la fel ca un sculptor face pana la forma paletei a fost corect pentru
ceas. Acest lucru este necesar constant nainte i napoi; montare palet, verificare pentru a se
potrivi, de a scoate palet, depunerea / materialul de mcinare off i remontarea din nou, pn
cnd piesa a fost funcional.

Fapte CEAS fun

Alte interesante i ceasuri Tidbits conexe

http://www.masterclockrepair.com/funclockfacts.html
Atunci cnd este un ceas nu un ceas?
Cnd e un ceas. Cuvntul "ceas" a fost derivat din cuvntul olandez "glock" ,ceea ce nseamn
clopot. Ceasul Termenul a fost apoi aplicat acelor cronometre care "a lovit un clopot".
De aceea, "ceasuri", care nu lovesc sau Chime sunt numitul punct de vedere tehnic timepieces.
Ce cuvintele "Tempus Fugit" nseamn pe un cadran de ceas?
Muli oameni greeal aceste cuvinte pentru numele de marca al ceasului lor, atunci cnd, n
53

realitate, este o expresie latina care inseamna "timpul zboara".

V-ai ti c Westminster dngni are cuvinte care merg mpreun cu melodia?
Este cu siguran o face i aici ei sunt:
Domnul prin aceast or
Fii tu ghidul nostru
Deci, prin puterea Ta
Nici picior trebuie s alunece.
Am vzut, de asemenea, scris n acest fel:
Toate prin aceast or
Doamne, s fie ghidul meu
i prin puterea Ta
Nici picior trebuie s alunece.

Domnul prin aceast or

Fii tu ghidul nostru
Deci, prin puterea Ta
Nici picior trebuie s alunece.
Am vzut, de asemenea, scris n acest fel:
Toate prin aceast or
Doamne, s fie ghidul meu
i prin puterea Ta
Nici picior trebuie s alunece.
De ce au un "ceas cu bunicul" suna?
n primele zile de ceas de luare, micarea ceasului a fost casetat ntr - o "cutie" mic , cu un
cadran pe partea din fa i s - a fcut s fie atrnat pe perete ncazul pendulului i greut ile au
fost suspendate libere n aer liber. Cu nimic la proteja pendulul ar putea fi u or deranjat de o
adiere , iar ceasul s- ar opri. n cele din urm au nceput s construiasc dulapuri n jurul
pendulului i greuti ,n scopul de a le proteja. Aceste ceasuri au fost apoi in masura sa stea
pe podea , fr a fi agate i au fost denumite caz inalt, hol sau podea ceasuri.
Termenul "pendula" nu a fost niciodat aplicat pn dup 1875 cnd un cntec scris de Henry
C. Munca numit "Ceas bunicului" , a fost publicat. A devenit foarte cntec popular n ziua sale
i muzica foaie relatrilor , a vndut peste 800.000 de exemplare, destul de . Numrul n acele
zile Unele versuri au fost dup cum urmeaz:
Ceas bunicului meu a fost prea mare pentru raft,
Aa c a stat nouzeci de ani pe podea;
Era mai nalt de jumtate dect btrnul nsu i,
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Cu toate c nu cntrete o greutate ban mai mult.

Acesta a fost cumprat de pe zorilor de ziua n care a fost nscut,
i, ntotdeauna comoara i mndria lui;
ns stopp'd scurt niciodat s mearg din nou
Atunci cnd a murit btrnul.
Urmrind este pendul leagn ncoace i ncolo,
Multe ore petrecute n timp ce un biat;
Iar n copilrie i brbia ceasul prea s ti
i pentru a mprti att durerea i bucuria lui.
De lovit douzeci i patru de cnd a intrat n u,
Cu o nflorire i mireas frumoas;
ns stopp'd scurt niciodat s mearg din nou
Atunci cnd a murit btrnul.
Sun o alarm n toiul nopii
O alarm care de ani de zile a fost mut;
i am tiut c spiritul su era pluming pentru zbor
C ora lui de plecare a venit.
nc ceasul pstrat timp,
Cu un semnal sonor scurt i nbuit,
Aa cum am stat n tcere de partea lui;
ns stopp'd scurt niciodat s mearg din nou
Atunci cnd a murit btrnul.
De fapt, piesa a fost att de popular nct civa ani mai trziu , o continuare afost scris de
compozitorul original i a fost intitulat, " O urmare a Ceas bunicului." In continuare ni se spune
de final trist al ceasului. Nepotul la revenirea la bunicul su casa, care este acum de inut de
alii, nva de soarta sa. ceasul care a nu alerga dup moartea bunicului su a fost
tranzacionate pentru un alt ceas care a fost atrnat pe perete n locul ei. peddler ceas a luat
ceasul la un magazin de vechituri n cazul n care piesele sale au fost topite. cazul a fost apoi
tiat n aprinztor de ju NK -d ea le r ' soiei lui; un final trist , ntr - adevr. Cred c nu a fost
nici un ceasornicarii bun n jurul valorii de !
ntrebat vreodat de ce unele cadrane de ceas cu cifre romane folosesc "IIII", n loc de forma
corect a numrului 4, care este "IV".
Multe ceasornicari timpurii a observat c n interiorul inelului de cifre pe un ceas forma i numrul
roman patru scrise ca IIII a prezentat un echilibru mai bun dect n cazul n scris ca IV.
Echilibrul menionat VIII pentru opt pe cealalt parte a cadranului. Toat lumea s vin de-a
lungul dup aceea trebuie s fi fost deacord ca acest obicei a continuat s fie o preferin .
tiai?
Punct de vedere istoric, abilitatea de a msura timpul cu un grad sporit de precizie a fost att de
mare, nct timp de secole, a fost de inventie ceasornic cel mai sofisticat departe a omului.
tiai?
Ce Henry Ford a fost la maini, iar Eli Terry era la ceasuri? Cu mult timp nainte Henry Ford
a nceput procesul de construire a automobilelor , cu o linie deasamblare, Eli Terry a nceput s
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ceasuri de a produce in masa folosind metode similare.

Pana la aproximativ 1805 ceasuri au fost capodopere costisitoare. Ei au fost cea mai mare
parte de lux lucrate manual la comand pentru doar civa boga i.
Un ceasornicar maestru ar face un ceas ca model i apoi ucenicii si s- ar folosi acest lucru ca
un model. Fabricaia pieselor unul la un moment dat , n acest mod , de multe ori a cauzat
aceleai pri s fie uor diferite. Aceste diferene minore pstrate piesele de la a fi
interschimbabile .
Eli Terry spulberat tradiia de a ncepe lucrul pe ceasuri pentru care a dispus nimeni. El
a motivat c , n ceea ce le face n acest mod el putea s- i mai ieftin produc i , prin
urmare , el ar fi n stare s gseasc o pia mai larg pentru ei. Unele dintre cele mai timpurii
ceasurile realizate n acest mod vndut pentru aproximativ 25 $. Chiar i acestea erau prea
scumpe pentru unii i el a nceput s le vnd pe ti - mi -p ay - mi nt e.
n 1807 Terry a ocat un mare numr de ceasornicari cnd a anunat c va ncepe s lucreze la
500 de micri de ceas pentru a fi vndute la 5 $. Ei nu au crezut posibil. Dup cum se
dovedete, n urmtorii trei ani el a scris 5000 de micri de ceas.
Cu acest umil nceput, puin a tiut Terry c, pn n 1941, 15.000.000 ceasurile vor fi

produse anual n America. (Sursa, Look Magazine9/4/45)

Cineva a spus odat,

"Omul este inconfortabil cu timpul, deoarece el a fost creat pentru ve nicie ."

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